Painting Your Own Bike?

 

Here is some information about painting your own bike.  Please note that the information you find here is sent in by
persons that are not necessarily painting experts.  They are offering tips that have worked for them.  These same
methods may not work in all cases.  SuzukiCavalcade.com, it's owner(s) and/or associates are not responsible
for damages of any type, for methods and procedures used, based on information found on this Website. 

 

To: Cavalcade_USA@yahoogroups.com 
From: "bignuggets1947" bignuggets1947@yahoo.com 
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 18:28:23 -0000
Subject: [Cavalcade_USA Email] Re: Paint

I have just finished painting my Cade for the second time in one year.  The first paint job was keyed in a parking lot! (Jealousy, I
suppose).  Like a lot of us I could not afford a professional paint scheme (2-5 K simolians) so I was left doing it myself.  A lot of
experimentation with the first paint.  I am an artist, oils and acrylics mainly, but never painted with enamel, especially a MC or car. 

Here is a list of the paint products you will need.  I was able to obtain a PROFESSIONAL paint job using spray cans!  It wasn't cheap but
definitely a lot less costly.   Less than $400.00   Plan on spending 100 hours of total labor applying the paint and putting the bike back
on the road.  Take your time!  Go slow!  If you rush you will screw up the paint.

a.  Gray spray primer
b.  Lacquer spray paint Dupli-color has the best colors to choose from. (Pick your poison)
c.  Adhesion promoter (Dupli-color)
d.  10 spray cans of SprayMax 2 part catalyzed clear coat.  (these cans are expensive.  About $20.00 each!
e. 220 through 600 grit sandpaper.  You will also need 2000/3000 grit sandpaper for the finishing touches.
f.  A good rubbing/polishing compound.  (very important to use only Maguires!!!!!)
g.  An electric buffer (Get a good one at Harbor Freight)
h.  Lots and lots of elbow grease!

Keep in mind that you can apply enamel over lacquer but NOT lacquer over enamel (Unless the enamel has cured for a VERY, VERY long time).
If you email me  (  bignuggets@sbcglobal.net  ) I can answer a lot of your questions specifically and give you a step by step process on
painting your Cade.

As soon as I put the finishing touches on my bike I will post the pics in the photo section.   My Cade has a paint that when looked at
in the sunlight turns from iridescent green, through red to purple.  I accented the paint the gold leaf applications on all of the plastic
pieces.   I have already had the bike out a few time (before it was finished) and so many passer byes stop, stare and sometime rub their
hands on the gold leaf to see if they can feel anything.  They can't.  The paint has 5 coats of catalyzed clear coat.  Just a
strong, durable and gas resistant as any other car enamel.  Good luck!

~Alan

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To: Cavalcade_USA@yahoogroups.com 
From: "wayne borden" wainemaine@gmail.com 
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 10:49:23 -0500
Subject: Re: [Cavalcade_USA Email] Help with Paint...

All our bikes have been waxed and polished forever maybe 50 times .  Any paint you put on will have a problem sticking unless you do a lot of
prep work.   Best to sand the whole thing, every inch with every groove and especially seams and corners, then do a prewash with whatever prewash
the paint manufacturer recommends. don't assume a wipe down with paint thinner works.   Prewash is cheap and gets rid of any lingering waxes.  You won't
know the paint isn't stuck for maybe a few years till it starts to lift.   Best to sand, prewash, then seal with an epoxy primer.  The primer is what seals
any cracks or defects.  Before you start with the finish coat, sand between any different  paints or coats.  Follow the manufacturers coat timing to the
letter.

Cooler temperatures help with slowing down the cure times.  Any paint will be shiny right after you do it.  Any paint will get more shiny and smoother with
sanding between coats, with finer sandpaper as you add coats.  Start with 400 and work up to about 1000,  then buff the  last coat with polishing
compound , not rubbing compound.  

You can use anything your pockets won't balk at, but the better the paint, the better the results.  You only need a quart or two at the most.

I would seriously recommend taking off the pin stripes and all the panels / fairing parts, laying them flat and getting real good lighting, so there
are no shadows.  Be very careful around edges  and ridges.  Better to put on several dust coats, than 1 heavy coat, but do the dust coats all at
once, before the paint cures.  You want it wet the whole time .  

Set up a few milk crates, sawhorses, or big boxes  and lay out some cheap furring strips or cheap pine 1x3's.  Walk around while you do the painting and hit it from 
different angles.  Spraying the paint on doesn't take much time.  Its the elbow grease and sanding that does.

As far as durability, duPont says only IMRON epoxy is gasoline proof and most automotive chemical proof , and is extremely chip and
scratch resistant.  

Plan on a couple hundred dollars in primers, thinners, prewash, and finish paint for IMRON.  Anything else except a designer paint like
House Of Color, or Water Based will be cheaper.  I would steer clear of rattle cans for a whole paint color change.  

If you don't have a compressor, rent one.  Harbor Freight has cheap spray guns that work, if you clean them well.  If you can see a color change on the 
gun, it's not clean.  If you have never sprayed before, get some sheet metal and practice.  It's not as easy as it looks!   If you can't spray paint thinner 
without it running, the paint will sag or run! 

Lay all the parts flat and it minimizes the tendency to run.  Sticky dust-coats help too.  Don't hurry!  There's a reason labor  is a few thousand dollars for a real good paint job.

~ Wayne

 

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To: Cavalcade_USA@yahoogroups.com
From: "wayne borden" wainemaine@gmail.com
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:08:25 -0500
Subject: Re: [Cavalcade_USA Email] Help with Paint...

I skipped over the part about personal safety.  Ask the paint salesman what type respirator you should use.  A regular dust respirator is ok for
sanding , but not for painting automotive paints, like acrylic enamels and especially  two/3 part epoxies.  You can get real sick or worse, if you
don't use  the right respirator !! 

When sanding, get a spray bottle with water and sand while its wet and keep it wet, keep rinsing the sandpaper in a bucket of clean water too.

Sand, wash, clean and let dry completely.  Soap and water works between coats and sanding with a good rinse with a hose.

~ Wayne