Stator Problems? 

 Here's how to rewind the stator yourself.

 

PINPOINTING THE PROBLEM

Step 1: Battery Check. Before performing any test on the charging system, be sure battery is in good condition and fully charged. Any automotive store can do a load test for you at no cost.

Step 2: Start the engine and set lights to bright. Using a multimeter, check across the battery terminals. At 1,000 RPM you should read 13+ DC voltage. This voltage should increase as engine RPM increases. At 5,000 RPM voltage should be between 14v and 15v DC. (Note: The regulator-rectifier can lose 1 of its 3 SCR diodes and still show an increase in voltage as engine RPM increases. This voltage will be in the range of 11.1 to 12.7 DC. Don't let this fool you into thinking your voltmeter is incorrect. If this happens the regulator-rectifier is most likely bad and should be replaced.)

Step 3: Do the "no load" generator test. Disconnect the generator from the regulator. This will be the three yellow connections at the regulator-rectifier. Start the engine and connect multimeter to any two of the three yellow generator wires. (Be sure to set multimeter to AC before performing this test!) Since this will be AC voltage the polarity doesn't matter. At 5,000 RPM you should get 90 volts AC or higher.

 

DO IT YOURSELF STATOR REWIND

Before you start, make sure you have these things on hand:

* 2-lbs high temperature 17 gauge (18 gauge will work) magnet wire. If you can't find this wire locally, you can call Allied Electronics at 1-800-433-5700. Locally the wire should cost around $5.00 per lb plus a $5.00 spool charge.

2-lb should cost about $15.00.

* You will also need some epoxy that will withstand heat and oil and will stick to the coating of the magnet wire. I used EpoxyLite Insul Spray 7001. Two other brands which are also good are 3M 2116 and 3M 1838.

* The tools you will need after stator has been removed from engine are:

Step 1: Remove the factory clamp holding the wires to stator. Cut the three yellow wires as close to the original connections as possible. Remove the cloth insulation. Save these so you can use them later. With a sharp tool or a scribe, make a mark below the core where the wires enter the winding (figure 1). This will be your start point for wire #1 later. At this point, it would also be a good idea to sit back and get a good mental picture of each side of the stator, making notes, if necessary.


figure 1


Step 2: Start unwinding each coil. Take note of number of wraps and direction of winding. Each coil should have the same number of wraps. Be careful not to scratch or chip the epoxy coating beneath the wire. With a permanent marker, mark each core starting with the one above your scribe mark, 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3 and so forth in sequence (figure 1). .

Step 3: After all wire has been removed, inspect the stator closely, making sure the factory epoxy is not chipped or cracked. If any bad spots are present, you will need to put a small amount of epoxy to fill them in. If there are any spots you have doubts about, put a little epoxy on them, it's always better to be safe than sorry. Let dry completely.

NOTE: If you are like me, I can't keep count of all those wraps so to make it easier, I calculated the amount of wire by inches, and marked the wire where each coil would stop. It comes out to approximately 134 inches (11' 2"). These marks will not end up the same each time but as long as it is close it will work fine...

Step 4: Uncoil about 13 feet of wire (DO NOT CUT). Using masking tape, put a tag on end of wire and mark: #1 IN. Measure down 6 to 8 inches and make a mark with black marker. From that mark, measure another 11' 2" and make another mark. At the #1 core above the scribe mark, place the first black mark at the edge of the stator leaving the 6" to 8" sticking out. Start winding in a counter-clockwise direction, keep wire as tight and even as possible until you get to the 11' 2" mark. Pull the wire to the next #1core. From here, measure out another 11' 2" and make a mark with the marker. Wrap each #1 core in this way until all six have been wrapped. Measure out 6" to 8" and cut wire. On this end of wire using masking tape, mark: #1 OUT.

Step 5: Repeat Step 4 for the #2 and #3 cores.

Step 6: Now you should have six (6) wires protruding from the stator. Put the two wires marked

#1 IN and #3 OUT together and work them in between #1 and #3 cores above the scribe mark. Put the two wires marked #1 OUT and #2 IN together and cover with a piece of the cloth insulation from earlier. Work these wires between the #1 and #3 cores also. Put the two wires marked #2 OUT and #3 IN together and cover with cloth insulator. Work these wires between the #1 and #2 cores. Now you should have 3 sets of wires protruding to the case side of the stator.

Step 7: Using masking tape, tape every part of stator leaving nothing but the magnet wire showing. Apply epoxy, making sure all the wire is evenly covered. Leave the 3 sets of wires sticking out and uncoated. The epoxy should dry overnight.

Step 8: Once epoxy has dried, fold the three pairs of wires down toward the mounting screw for the clamp. Cut each pair even with the screw hole and with the wire strippers, strip a 1/4" of coating from the end of wire. Double check to see if the wires are still paired as in

Step 9: Slide the short cloth insulators over each pair. Soldier the three yellow wires to the 3 new ones and slide the cloth insulators over the connections. After installing the wire clamp you should feel you have a new stator.

Gene & Kim Maynard,

Vicksburg, Mississippi

Feel free to email me.