The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #11 ~ June, 2001

Jay D. Johnson, Editor

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CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri.  You can visit their web site at 

Plans include exhibits and displays by suppliers; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises.  Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.  

You should get your reservation in early.  There are only 65 rooms blocked for our group with a special discounted rate.  Half of those are already reserved.  You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Owner’s Group meeting ("CADE RAID 2002") to get our group room rate.  The Inn is giving us a tentative rate of $55.00 per night.  They do not expect this to change.  However they will not be able to guarantee this rate until September of this year.  We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead.  You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer.  The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553.  Those who wait until the last minute will have a difficult time finding lodging.


Just thought I'd let everyone know my trip to Americade had came to a close. Had a very nice time enjoyed meeting all the people that I was able to meet from the group and even some that weren't. Talked to a lot of Caders that hadn't discovered the magical web site yet. Cade did just as expected on the trip no problems whatsoever. Cade owners got some good reports as a bunch that sticks together, and aren't afraid to introduce themselves to another Cade owner, guess we are sort of a rare breed. This beast just has something about it that you can't find on another bike. My friend on the v-max was worn to the point of wanting to purchase a trailer to put his on, on the next long trip. Wonder who will ride with him? I'm even starting to think this machine has stealth capabilities as I ran through radar twice, well over the speed limit as wasn't pursued maybe it's the plastic fairing and the angles, or maybe the officer figured it wasn't worth it. Home safe and sound ~ Walter n Maryland


Just a note to say thanks to all for a wonderful time at Americade.  It was great putting faces to the names that I talk to on the net, and meeting a lot of fun Caders.  Some of you have way too much fun! Also, a special "thanks" to Kenn and Donna for their hospitality.  Gerald and I made it home Sunday evening.  I logged on about 2400 + miles on this trip. Thanks again 

~ Denny Potoczky, South Bend, IN

PS: Now I can't wait for Branson 2002!


Nancy and I made it home from Americade at 10:30 last night. We had a great time and love being a part of this group, Which is it, the food or Cades we like most? Thanks for a great time. ~ Larry


Had a great time at Americade. Thanks to all who made me feel right at home with every one. The Cade did great! The ride out was very wet the ride home great, about 1900 miles. The Cade had better gas mileage in the hills on turns than it did on the slabs (interstate). Thanks again to all. I'm ready for Branson and so is the wife. ~ Gerald, '86 LXE Pearl Blue


I made it safely back on Saturday.... It was great meeting some new friends, and seeing old friends. The Cade family is a special group of people. And yes, I did get my light bar from Walter working ... It looks like it was user error, I shorted the relay ... It works great now.... With the headlight and 2 55-watt driving lights ... I can see everything ... and they can see me. Last year, I bought my new Blue LXE on the way home from Americade ... I didn't find another one on the side of the road this year.... I was looking.... Always love a great Cade buy.... I do have to admit that after riding 10 new motorcycles there was only 1 like better then my Cade ... it's amazing what $20,000 can buy these days.... Gotta love the BMW KT1200 ... I rode the new Gold Wing, yes it is a good ride.... But it is not a Cade ... and the ride the Honda people took you on really was a lame ride. It was great seeing you all. Hope to find more time to post on this board. All Hail Cavalcade Queen Paula! Hail to the Queen! And who was that other cute Queen with her? ~ Paul G. Hope to see some of you on the 7 State Ride.



Ok all you Midwest Caders and anybody farther away that are interested, here is a chance to get together and have some fun. I am tentatively planning as follows: 

* For the weekend of August 10,11 & 12.  Meet in the Madison area, Possibly Quality Inn just off hwy I-90, I could book a block of rooms if interested.  For those who like to camp, Kegonsa State Park is only 6 miles from there or Babcock Park which is about 2 miles from the motel and has restaurants within walking distance.

* Saturday morning meet for breakfast. ~ Ride up hwy 113, across Wisconsin River on the ferry and then onto the Baraboo Valley area, very nice curvy roads and lots of great scenery.  Could go to Wisconsin Dells, only short distance from there.

* Sunday morning breakfast at Nora's Bachelors II, large parking lot and very good food (low priced). ~ We could also go to our local park and have a cookout? Sunday? ~ Any other ideas are welcome, any other areas, etc.  Let me know what you think. ~ I planned Friday for those who may want to attend from a farther distance away and I will take Friday off to meet and ride with if you like or to help with accommodations. ~ Contact me at or call 608-764-5874



We have come into possession of ONE heel/toe shifter.  The donor has asked that we dispose of it fairly.  Hence, "Heel/Toe Raffle" 

Send $5 and a self addressed stamped envelope to Kenn Gibbs, 47 Hoffman Ave. Geneva, NY  14456. 

Tickets go on sale as of this announcement.  Sale ends Sept 1, 2001.  Drawing on Labor Day.  Shifter will be shipped to winner.  One stipulation: winner has to pick a charity to receive 50% of proceeds and 50% will be used as seed money for patches, pins etc.  Ticket sales starts NOW. ~ KennG




I work with the Dutch Suzuki distributor as a technical trainer for all Suzuki products, except automobiles.  Originally only 12 units were imported between 1986 and 1991.  Approx. 50 units were imported as a used bike from the States over the years.  My bike is originally from Minnesota and has only 12,000 Mlles.  It looks like new. 

To the history you tell on your web site, I would like to add some information.  The engineer that was involved in the Cavalcade project and who wrote the service manual, I knew very well.

Unfortunately he died four years ago. The Cavalcade was built up till model year 'L' (1990) and only in the colour gray. They built 3000 units; this is the minimum amount of units to continue production. After these 3000 units, production was discontinued. SMC Japan sold them in two seasons (1990 and 1991). Many bikes of the last production were shipped to Belgium. Here in the Netherlands we sold two L-model units, one in 1991 and one in 1993. ~ I hope to have been of service to you with this information. Best regards, ~ Han Kaalverink technical advisor/trainer Suzuki Power Products Operations



I must have an earlier version of the Cavalcade CD/ROM, 'cause I've only a CB directory, containing only the CB Service manual and also wiring diagram. I've also searched through all the radio stuff I've downloaded, and find no such information. What Revision of the CD are we up to now? How much is the update? ~ Andy


The current version is Feb 2001. The date of the revision is on the CD label. I think there were 2 revisions after the first. There was one in Nov 2000 and the one in Feb of 2001. I will see about getting the additional files set up as downloads. ~ Tracy



I have been approached by several of the newer members of the group for pins and patches. Any extra that others or I bought when we ordered them are long gone. I posted a message in the early spring about maybe getting another order together but the response at that time wasn't enough to make minimum quantities from the supplier and I said I would try at another time. Well, let's try it again. Anybody who doesn't know what the pin/patch design looks like can see it posted on the  site, pictures page 4 at the bottom. The pricing in the order info was for the 10" patch. More popular was the 4" patch that I think cost us $3.10 on the original order, pins being $2.00 each. These prices may be off a little at that was a while ago. Pricing depends on quantities ordered. As before, I'm not looking to make money...just provide a service to our members so cost will be passed on with just postage/shipping costs added. Anyone wanting more information or wanting to be put on a list for the pins and patches please respond to    I will take a total count of what is wanted. Maybe this time we can get an order together. If so I will notify all interested in details. Safe and happy riding to all...Dennis Vanill


Cruise Control

Can any one out there in computer land tell me if the cruise light comes on when sitting still in neutral when you put the cruise control on? We checked the switch and cleaned same and we think its ok. We also re-adjusted the front hand brake... The light still does not come on. It seems like the foot brake is ok also, along with the clutch. Be really glad if any one could help point me in the right direction... ~ Gary


Gary, In order for the cruise control to work and the light come on you must be in 5th gear above 45 MPH. As a new owner the best advise I can give you is to get a copy of the CD see trailers below). The manual on CD tells of the conditions that allow cruise control to work and the ways to stop cruise control when you want to turn it off. ~ I leave my switch in the "on " position all the time. When I want to engage just hit the set button, to turn it off hit the brakes or most often I shut it off by closing the throttle. ~ Al from Mass


Another new little nuance of the bike that I didn't know about. I have been conditioned, by cars to use the brake to disengage the cruise. ~ Dan, in DFW TX


I've noticed (for me at least) if I shut off using the throttle I end up decelerating a bunch. Perhaps I just need practice. ~ Brenden


And is it just me...or when you use the deceleration function, it's none to gentle? Lot's of engine braking on these things. I've worked around that by holding the throttle while decelerating to make it more gentle. ~ B K Walker


The light "tap, tap" method is my choice. Rolling the throttle forward (slowdown) and bringing it back up works but it is tricky but doable. ~ Ken


Brenden, That’s the trick. I've learned that when I roll the throttle back to disengage the cruise, to try to accelerate as soon as the cruise does disengage to keep it as smooth as possible. It does take some practice. To decelerate using the button, don’t hold it in as long, maybe even hold in for a second, let go, push back in for a second, let go. This makes it a smoother deceleration. Try it and see what you think. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX


Brenden, This is the way I've found to be the smoothest. First I put the throttle to where its equal to the cruise speed then I lightly tap the front brake or you could use the rear, the front just seems easier for me, the cruise clicks off and your speed is the same as the cruise. The only trick is lightly tap the brake just enough to disengage the cruise. ~ Hope that helps, Roy in TX


I think the only time I used the deceleration (without holding the throttle) was on a flat stretch of highway, even just momentarily pressing it seemed to cause it to close the throttle too far. I'm getting pretty good at holding the throttle while using the deceleration function. ~ B K Walker



So I emptied my first full tank the other day, and only managed to get 28mpg. Now this was a lot of small two-lane highway, two up (close to 500# of us) with a lot of stops. Might as well have been all around town driving. It's possible I'm a bit ham-fisted with the throttle, and during that tank there was a lot of idling in the garage after oil-change, coolant change and such. It makes me wonder if perhaps I should get check the compression and such (even though I loath the idea, particularly on the front cylinders). This is the first Cade I've owned so I'm in bit in the dark on performance. It seems peppy enough, it can get both of us up to 60+ on an uphill on ramp, but I have noticed that in any gear above 2nd with rpm's below 2,000 if I hit the throttle it seems pretty jerky. I suspect this is normal, and I'm getting used to bike and where to shift and such. Before I blow a weekend or two doing compression checks and debating engine removal, I thought I'd see what others say. I tried timing myself 0-60 to see how close I could get to the 'official' 0-60 time of the bike, and managed to get somewhere around 9 seconds. Mind you I didn't take off at high Rpm’s, and I was in a driveway when I started timing so I had to turn. I have a feeling that number is way off ;-). ~ Brenden Walker


Brendan, I usually run between 30-32 mpg. I have never done a speed test of any time. Roads up here don’t lend to in easily. ~ Arthur S. Arena


Brenden I've had my Cade for 11 yrs. Under 2,000 RPM it lugs. I try always to shift if I am going under 2k. Mileage since new has never really varied - in mixed driving 75% hwy & 25% city has always been around 35-37 MPG that's 1 up. ~ Al from Mass


I usually run between 38-42 mpg. I recently performed a weekend ride two up, was a charge going to 9,800 feet without a whimper. ~ You'll find that the bike is capable of speed near that posted. Additionally, don't shift until you get up around 4,000 RPM and the feel will be much better. Running at Rpm’s lower that 2,000 will lug the engine. The 112HP ponies don't like to operate in that range much. ~ Micky "Gray 87 LX"


Brendan, I run between 47 and 50 mpg. Mostly on highways and about half with two up. Remember though Canadian gallons are 20% larger than U.S. gallons. ~ I would think your experience with sluggishness below 2000 rpm in higher gears is the design performance of the bike. I also think that if you have a quicker feeling bike along side you will find you are keeping up. These bikes are like Cadillacs and Lincolns. They are just so comfortable you don't feel the acceleration the same way. ~ Rick Bates, 86LX



So, how exactly am I supposed to get the pump to work via the air-hose? I hooked up an air-hose to the small hose under the change keeper and I thought you just had to hold the auto-level button to work the pump. That doesn't seem to be the case. I tried on center stand, side stand, no stand engine running and not. I did find that I could push one of the passenger airbag inflate buttons and I get air from the hose.  Is there an easier/recommended way? ~ Brenden


I got around to fixing mine this year. You need to remove the false tank then remove to radio box. Locate the air feed switch wires on the left side, red/green stripe red/yellow stripe. Install an on/off switch to turn the compressor on and off other wise the tire pressure will back-feed into the compressor. ~ Tom


Brenden, Suzuki sells a switch that looks like the auto level switch. It has air comp on the button in white on a green background. It is supposed to be mounted next to the air cushion buttons on the lower fairing in front of your left knee. The gang plug is located between the radio box and the fairing frame in the wiring harness that runs along the frame rail. I bought the Suzuki switch for my bike last summer and installed it. It comes with the proper length wire and connector on the end that makes it a plug-in installation after cutting the hole to mount it. The switch is pricey but it keeps the bike stock. Any switch will work as long as it has ample contacts for the amperage load. Good Riding, ~ David, 86 LXE


The air hose must be plugged into the shrader in the left upper faring pocket. There is a switch to activate for the auxiliary hose. When you push the auto leveler, the air is directed into the shock hoses. When you push the individual seat buttons the air is directed into that cushion. If you have the hose plugged onto the shrader and push any of the buttons air MIGHT also go to the hose but also to the cushion. And if you're pumping to 35lbs, look out seat cushion. There must be a separate switch for the compressor, to run and supply air to the aux hose. ~ Walter n Maryland



Hello, to all, I just found this group and joined. I currently own an 86 with 17,000 miles. I bought it from my neighbor. Love the bike. But, it needs some help. Currently it's a LX. I would like to make it LXE.   It also has some damage due to the owner dropping it. (NOT ME) Could someone help? I would like to add the headset and CB, and two speakers in the rear. Also the luggage container on the right side is cracked and needs some work. At some point the bike is going to be stripped and repainted to factory colors. So I guess the decals may be handy too. Thank you! ~ Arthur


Arthur, Congratulations and Welcome! You'll love your 'Cade, but upgrading is going to be a challenge.  Parts, if available from Suzuki, are going to be expensive, and used parts are going to be difficult to find. At the bottom of the email messages, or the Digest, whichever you receive, you'll find a reference to Tracy's CD. Get it - it's worth its  weight in gold. You'll have access to both the Service Manual and the Parts Manual. They will help you in deciding what you need. Other than that, you'll just need patience and elbow grease. But whatever upgrades you decide to do, the outcome will be worth it. ~ Andy, Midland, TX



Hi, my name is Don Dorion. I live 30 mile west of Nashville, TN. I had bought my 86 LX from a dealer through eBay last November. I had always liked the Cavalcade. I had first visited the site, when I noticed a leak from the gearbox boot. I did a search on Cavalcade without finding much. I replaced the seals, and boot myself. When I first drove it the windshield was too high. I am only 5'5" with a 29" inseam. I cut the windshield to my specification. I placed a 2" stripe of masking tape on both sides of the windshield where I was going to cut it. I marked on the masking tape the cut line (making sure all was symmetrical) I used a fine blade on my saber saw and started at it. After the cut I used a file to work out the imperfections. Now it works great. I am not looking for chrome windshield trim to accent it (My Interstate had this). The seat was also too high and I had to cut down the foam padding to allow my feet to touch the ground, the only other way was to put blocks on my boots! I had a '82 Interstate and when I saw the Cavalcade I suggested to my wife I would part it and sell it on eBay, which I did. ~ Since I had the Cavalcade I changed the rear rotor, rear and front pads, front and rear valve stems, battery, regulator/rectifier, radio buttons, gear box seals and helix gear plug, put in a LCD voltage meter in the dash, and have a front tire to mount. My garage is now a motorcycle shop. I had always liked Suzuki motorcycles. My first was a 79, GS750L. I bought it new. I then bought a '86, 750 Intruder in 91 and in 97 bought a 1400 Intruder. I bought my wife a GN250 last Mothers Day. I now have the Cavalcade, 1400 Intruder, wife's 250 and a frame and motor from the Interstate. ~ I enjoy the emails from this group and the web site is great. ~ Don


Hi Don, Glad to have you in the group. Now give us more details on this LCD voltmeter you installed in the dash. There are many of us that I'm sure are interested in this. Where you bought parts? Where and how you mounted in dash? ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX



I just wanted to send thanks out to all in this group. I paid attention to the e-mail on the radio and, as a result, now have a fully functional radio again. I ordered the switches from Digi-Key and then took the faceplate off to have them installed (I don't solder neatly, just functionally and didn't want to ruin the circuit board). The total cost came to $53 ($13 for switches and $40 labor to have a professional solder the new switches in place). Also had a problem with my battery which I thought was due simply to age (it was 3 years old), but the new battery wouldn't charge either. Again, thanks to the myriad of e-mails, I decided to check all the connectors in the fairing near the battery and clean them. Cleaned the major connector from the negative terminal, and, lo and behold, no more charging problem. Sure feels nice to get the bike back on the road! Now have to get new tires, so am following the on-going discussion as to which are best. Great group, worth every minute of time spent reading the e-mails. Sure wish I could have made Americade, the pix were great and it looks like a good time was had by all. ~ Dennis '86 LX




Living in Arizona there's a lot of hot weather driving. I'm curious - if you're ready to turn Cade off while the fan is running, would it be better to wait till the fan goes off, or turn motor off but leave fan going, or turn it off and don't worry about it? Most of the time I do the latter for fear of draining the battery. I have tried to leave the fan running (after turning engine off) and found it doesn't really run that long. ~ Steve & Ms Vic ’86 LX



My '86 LX has developed some strange noises around the front wheel. The strange thing is that it doesn't start until the bike has been ridden for about 20 miles. It sounds like a loud rattle, or rubbing noise. It's not affected by the front brake and occurs under power or coasting, and corresponds to the speed of the wheel. I'm guessing wheel bearing? I'm not a mechanic, but would like to some idea of what to suggest to the shop. Have a great time at Americade. Wish I were going. Next year for sure! ~ Chuck Smith '86 LX Johnstown, PA


Chuck, I have noticed a noise from the front wheel area of my 86 LXE similar to the one you mentioned, and was wondering if you have solved the problem yet. If so was it changing the pads? It almost sounds like that is where the sound is coming from by the noise I'm hearing, but not sure. Another question for the group, has anyone replaced the cover of their saddle themselves, I only need to replace the saddle cover. I have a price of redoing the cover for around $200, but can get a cover for $85 from B&H Specialties (from web site), but have to put it on myself. ~ Ken in Wisconsin


As far as the seat cover goes, I ordered a B&H seat cover for $85 and covered the seat myself. Great looking cover, and only took about an hour to do. Make sure you got the staple gun ready though to secure the cover to the plastic seat pan ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


Ken, I went to an auto upholstery shop and had the bad sections of my seat replaced. They were able to match the color perfectly. ~ Bob Morse Lexington SC, 86LX


Ken, I also bought a cover from B&H and am quite happy with the outcome. I'm "all thumbs" with art projects like that. But it was simple to install and it came out well. And as stated before, have your staples ready! ~ Bob Schindler, ‘86 LX, Jupiter, Florida


Ken, I purchased the saddle cover from B&H. It came with what appear to be clear and simple instructions for a do-it-yourself installation. However, since a local upholstery shop had redone the seat on my previous bike and I was very pleased with his work I took the job to him. Cost was $50.00 CDN, about $30.00 US. The cover fits perfectly and is an exact match to the original. About 1,000 miles later it seems to be wearing well. ~ Rick Bates, 86LX


Ken, I also had a noise in the front end and oiled the speedometer cable and it stopped. You have to remove part of the front fairing to get to it. ~ Kirby


Ack, you shouldn't have to remove part of the fairing. Simply unscrew the speedo cable from the wheel and the actual cable inside should just slide out. Grease it up with some good hi-temp grease and slide it back in (probably have to turn it to get it to engage the speedo). ~ Brenden



I was on a fantastic ride on the Million-Dollar Highway from Durango, through Salvation and Ridgewood on the way to Telluride, Colorado. First time on the road with a bike and first trip on my new (for me) Cade. Now I truly appreciated your positive comments on our bikes. On the way home my speedometer quit. ~ A little history - a few weeks ago I started hearing a squeaking sound from the front. Took the calipers off, checked brake pads (lots of life) and the noise stopped at least when I spun the wheel by hand. I figured it was just something in the brake pads. A day before the speedometer quit I really started noticing the squeaking again - louder than before. Since the speedometer quit working, I haven't noticed the noise. General consensus seems to be the tabs inside the speedometer gearbox. I was planning on taking the front wheel off and looking at it. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated. ~ I need to get this fixed. Apparently the cruise control is tied into the speedometer as my cruise quit working at the same time. Major drag not being able to let the right hand loosen up. ~ Steve & Ms Vic ’86 LX


Steve, Check the cable first. There is an AC generator in the speedo head converts current into a usable speed reading for the latching relay for the cruise, auto turn signal canceling and the auto volume control for the radio. The sensor speed range is approximately, above 7-9 mph to app- 85mph. Anything out of range, it is nonfunctional. Do the easy first. You can spin the cable if it is good spin it with your fingers if no reading look at the cable if you get a reading look at speedo gear box. ~ JR


Unhook the speedo cable and see if it isn't broken. I would suspect that before the tabs. ~ Tracy


I agree. If responding, then you gotta take off the front wheel and check the speedo gearbox. There are two little ears that stick into two slots on the front wheel. Mine were bent in. Maybe yours are also. If not, grease her and try to get movement before you put the wheel back on. If not, hmmm, new gearbox and cable. Only about 40k when I ordered mine two years ago. Good luck. ~ Gerry in NY


Thanks for all the help. As I've seen in the past this is the place for info on our bikes. Took the cable off this morning. Turning it made the speedometer needle jump. Took the speedo gear box off, tabs were intact. Spinning the tabs though didn't make the connection to the cable. Ordered a new part for $70 from Suzuki today. Thanks again! ~ Steve & Ms Vic86LX



We have only had our Cade a few months and being new riders only recently took the bike on an all day trip. Question, on the highway going 60-65 the bike just doesn't feel right, unstable and wobbly. Is this normal and something we have to get used too? Do we need the super brace? We did take her in for service right after we bought her and the guy was s'pose to completely check her out, however, when we went to pick her up apparently all he did was change the fluids and balanced the front tire and charged an arm and leg. (Tough to ride now, maybe that's our problem, LOL). Also, now that we have her back from the service guy, she's leaking fluids all over the garage floor, she didn't leak before. At first we just figured it was an overflow but...the puddle gets bigger and bigger. Doesn't look like it is coming from the secondary gear area but further back. Help, we love this bike. Does anyone know a good mechanic in the Denver area? We are ordering the CD from Tracy, maybe we will learn to fix her ourselves so any help from all you Cade experts out there will be most appreciated. OR... Any of you want to ride to Colorado...??? ~ Jon

& Salli ~ 86 LXE, Littleton, CO


Jon, I've been told by the group that improper air pressure in the tires can cause the bike to feel "loose" and unstable.... Also might want to have back tire balanced also. I had mine when I had it off for my leaking drive seals. That could also be the culprit of the fluid on your garage floor, is the drive seals. Mine was leaking from the boot between the secondary drive and the driveshaft housing. The vent hose for the secondary goes back in that direction too, maybe the shop overfilled it, or might even check the drain plugs to make sure they are tight. As far as the super brace, I don’t have one and don’t feel my bike is wobbly or unstable, but many in this group swear by them. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX


Ron, A common problem is overfilling the rear drive unit. It doesn't seem to drain very well and if you then put the "normal amount" back in, it could be overfilled. As thick as that fluid is, it takes its sweet time getting into and out of the innards of the rear gearbox. One should drain it for a day or more then put back in about what came out. That is, of course, the level was low to begin with. Members of the group have taken out the level plug and left it set for a couple of days with a can or pan underneath it just to get the level right. ~ It could also be the seal at the front-end drive letting fluid into the drive tube. ~ Tracy


Brian, Air pressure is fine. As a new driver, the super brace may be my best bet. Plan on checking around for prices etc. It sure would be nice to find someone in this area with experience with this bike. Ordered the CD from Tracy today and re-read the owners manual (yes, it came with the bike!) may have to become a mechanic! Guess you can still teach an old dog new tricks when the old dog has a great bike that no one wants to service! Fluid leak seems to have subsided a little, cleaned the garage and put the newspapers down to see exactly where the leak is coming from. Also wiped the bike clean and will check in the morning to try to find the exact spot of the leak. Thanks for responding! ~ Jon, ‘86 LXE, Littleton CO



Handling problems, things to check:

1) Steering head bearings

2) Tire pressure

3) All relevant bolts are tight

4) Wheel bearings tight

5) Swingarm pivot tight

6) Superbrace helps

7) Front and or rear springs worn out

8) Little or no fluid in forks

9) Damping in rear shocks gone

10) Not enough air in rear shocks

11) Worn handlebar mount rubbers

12) Type and wear on tires

13) Turning handlebar mounts around 180° helps low speed handling

14) Wiggly-butt syndrome (rare, but does happen)

You should have your CD in a couple of days ~ Tracy


Jon & Salli, Go to Apex Sports in Colorado Springs. I had a stator go out 200 miles west of there. Someone recommended them to me and that is where I had the bike hauled. They are great people. They air freighted the parts in and had me back on the road in as short a time as possible. I have been back in the area on other trips and the guy I was with needed new tires for his bike. They worked us in and treated him square. The service manager is T.C.; he is a very service dedicated person. Good Luck! ~ David, ‘86 LXE, Perryville, Arkansas



Hi All. I know I've talked about my bike not running right for some time and I really appreciated

everybody's advice. I followed all the advice I got but just couldn't get it running right so I looked for someone to fix it. After the third dealer I called a Honda dealer and they said they would work on it. I had heard good things about them so I didn't mind the two-week wait to get it in there, which was May 17th. After a couple days they called me and said the carbs needed to be cleaned and the intake manifolds needed to be changed. I know a few of you told me that may be the problem and I did silicone any cracks I saw and when I sprayed them with starting fluid I didn't hear the rpm raise, but whatever, so be it, I told them to fix it. I just wanted it running good. Last Tuesday they finally called me and said the parts were in, the bike sounds great, but the mechanic saw that my throttle cable looked frayed. Did I want it replaced? Well, sure, but they had to order that too. Ok, no biggie. Right? I'd rather be safe than sorry. I talked to them yesterday about 1:30pm and they said they were working on it right then and hopefully it'll be done. Well no phone call so I called them today, talked to a different guy and he was really snotty. He said this is really snowballing now and I asked him what he was talking about. He said the gas cap was a non-vented automotive cap and the bike would only run when it was off. I told him I've owned the bike since day 1, have never taken it anywhere for service and I sure didn't change it. (I'm also "wondering" how I could ever drive it for 45 minutes to get it out there in the first place). Well they said somebody must have changed it then and even though it had an S on it, it was not the same that Suzuki put on their "older" bikes. Then they said they can't test drive it because my 2 month old Yuasa battery only has 1/2 charge in it even though they don't work on the bikes with the batteries in them. Is it my imagination, or is this starting to sound like a scam only to me? Anyway, they said they're charging the battery and they're done working on it, I can pick it up.  It's starting to sound like they didn't have a clue what was wrong in the first place. Even though

I'm not the type, this is starting to sound like it's got "lawsuit" written all over it. If the original problem is fixed, I'll live with this gas cap rumor, and if by chance the battery is bad, so be it, it'll either charge up when I ride it or it's under warranty if it's bad. They also told me that they usually never even work on these bikes because they're "so old." I never held a gun to their heads to take it there in the first place. Anyway, I just wanted everyone to be aware of this service practice. Live & learn! ~ Rick


Rick, The Cav doesn't need a vented gas cap. It has a separate vent hose. The cap looks and acts like an automotive "clicker" type cap. And, yes, it does have an "S" on the crossbar. They need to check the vent line. It could be plugged or kinked. The reason the battery was only half-charged is probably because they ran the starter quite a lot when they determined it wouldn't run without the cap on. I'm also wondering about the fuel pump, now. ~ Tracy


Where does that vent line run? Is it possible that they could have kinked it when they put the carbs back on, or does it run closer to where the cap is or maybe the back of the tank? Thanks again. ~ Rick Rick, The best that I can tell from the illustrations in the service manual and the parts book (fig 43 of page 32 of the parts book shows it the best) is that it connects to a tube welded into the fuel tank. It's pretty high on the fill neck (the obvious place). It then goes along the right side frame rail under the seat and directly alongside the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs. It appears to then cross over to the other side and go through a valve (#44240-38A00) and then down and back up and along the left rear top frame rail. Where it ends, I don't know. There is a second breather hose that goes from the sub tank to the main tank that runs just under the left side top frame rail under the seat. It parallels the transfer tube from the sub to the main tank. The transfer line, of course, sits much lower (goes right by the left rear shock). I don't know if you have the CD or not (you may have already ordered it and it's in the mail or something), but the illustrations in section 10 of the service manual show where all of the lines are suppose to be and how they should be clamped. ~ Tracy


Rick, A lot mechanics won't work on Cades because they don't have a clue as to what to do with them. Fortunately, my dealer does because he used to own one. He also recommended a carb clean and boots when mine idled roughly. As I was out of work at the time, he said he'd try to save the manifolds if possible. Turns out they were ok. ~ Cable got frayed during the re-assembly. He fired his mechanic for trying to hide it, BUT... the cleaning did the trick. He offered the cable for free, but I told him to go halves because it was a very old cable and he'd talked me out of replacing it for general principles a year ago.  Note... the LX cable is now discontinued but the LXE cable which is a different part number, seems to work just fine. Don't know what modifications they had to make, if any, but everything works just fine.  Sounds like someone at the shop you went to left the lesser mechanics to do the clean up work on your bike. ~ Don Box



Help, Tried to start my Cade after it sat idle for about 10 days, engine started and gas came out of the carbs from what looks like an overflow port. After I removed the panels to get a better look at carbs I could crank the fuel pump (Starter switch and clutch pulled in) and see fuel coming out of the Right front carb overflow. If I continue to pump the fuel will eventually come out of the overflow on all the carbs. I thought I might tap the great pool of knowledge of the Caders. I have owned the 86GT only for about 2 months. It has run beautifully until this. Thanks ~ Mud from MO


Tap the great pool would be my first thought. IE: using a something relatively soft (I'd use a screwdriver handle) give the bottom of that carb a few gentle whacks. Sounds like your float or float valve is stuck (I can't think of anything else that would cause this kinda thing). If that does it...well you'll still probably want to remove the carbs and remove the float bowls. Give them a good cleaning and replace your fuel filter. ~ Brenden


I had that happen once. I figured it was the needle valve stuck in its seat, preventing fuel from coming into the float bowl. The fuel pump then causes the overflow through the vent. I fixed it by tapping lightly on the carb body with a small hammer. This unstuck the needle valve and it never happened again. ~ Spike


I just had a similar problem fixed. It started last year with a little drip and this year really began to pour out.  I thought it was the overflow tube and I kept trying to push the rubber hose tighter on the little stem at the front of my carb. I had the needles and seats replaced and the bike runs perfect. Much, much, much better gas mileage! ~ Mike Romano, 86 Brown Two tone LX



On the clutch switch wires you can install a rocker switch in line which will allow you to run the cruise in one position but you must move the switch to the other position to start the bike. Amazing what you can get used to if you're cheap like me. ~ B Decker


If anybody goes the route of using a switch to bypass clutch lever switch, please use what’s called a momentary switch. This allows the circuit to go open again once it's released. I really prefer that the clutch lever switch is repaired so that the bike won't be started in gear with clutch engaged allowing bike to lurch forward, dropped and somebody getting hurt. It operates this way for a reason. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.


I replaced my clutch switch last year. I was investing too much time getting the thing to start. It is not difficult! It is not expensive! I made the job harder than it had to be by taking fairing off. I could have cut the wiring and spiced in without taking the fairing off. Even doing it the hard way, it didn't take more than an hour. You guys that are gerry rigging it are wasting your time, risking your limbs and making chaos of your bike. Keep it as close to stock as possible and it will run better/longer. ~ Dick, '86 LXE


Dick, Exactly my point, It's always better to do the repairs the right way. By the way, I almost take offense to "gerry" rig, it's actually "jury" rig. ~ Jerry 86LX Wis.


Jerry, Thanks for the correction. I don't think I have ever seen the word written; only heard the word orally. ~ Dick


A bit of etymology at this point is absolutely critical to the well being of the cavalcade list, not to mention the continuation of democracy, indeed the very survival life as we know it on this planet. The term Gerrymander was derived during the term of Elbridge Gerry, who served as governor of Massachusetts in 1810-1812. The derogatory term was coined as a result of Gerry's rearranging the voting districts in such a way as to favor the incumbent party (Gerry's). The resulting redrawn district bore a grotesque resemblance to a salamander. Melding the term salamander with the governor's name resulted in the term gerrymander, which is in use to this day to mean manipulating the outcome of an election. Jury rig, on the other hand, suggests affecting a favorable outcome in a court trial by stacking the jury in the favor of one side over the other. Our biker friends Jerry, HeyJerr and Gerry probably already knew this bit of trivia, but I marveled at how the internet has allowed me to quickly gather the info and use it to junk up the Cavalcade list with entertaining but useless information. ~ Spike


My '86LX was equipped with a Clutch Bypass Switched at the time I purchased it. There was a toggle switch on the left cowling next to the Air Shock Switch; every time I moved it, nothing happened except that the bike wouldn't start. ~ This was no big thing, as I've always, ALWAYS, made a point of leaving my bikes in neutral when I stop of turn them off. This has been the case for more years than I care to remember. ~ Somehow I made the connection about the Cruise Control, and nothing has changed. The switch is left 'off' all the time, except for on the highway when I use the cruise control. When I'm done, it goes back to 'off.' ~ I've never had a problem. No safety issues either. ~ Andy, Midland, TX


Jerry: How hard was it to replace the clutch springs? How much time did it take? ~ Brian, ‘87LXE in CT


Brian, It took me about 3/4th of an hour, pull off the right cover and you will see the clutch spring bolts, remove one at a time and install the springs. I got the springs from my local Suzuki dealer, just ask for the Barnett springs. Cost of springs were $9.98 p/n 2012-312 Case gasket p/n 11482-05A01- H17 $12.71 ~ Jerry ‘86LX, Wisc.



Anyone know why both turn signals might quit at the same time? ~ Bob Kaps


I had a similar problem and found it was connection/ground problems centered around the black box (sorry can't remember the proper name) that sits up in front of the left front speaker. Cleaned the connection contact with some results but it was the ground connections that did the trick. ~ KennG



On inspection of the clutch lever (after hard Starting) I found that pivot bearing has worn to an egg shape thus the contact has moved about 4mm (1/8 inch) and is not constant. Fix will be to replace the bush, read that as turndown a blank and re-drill. It’s just a thought. ~ Steve 87LX



I had a safety check done on the Cade yesterday. All was well except two things. One the front fork seals, and the clutch. Neither of which I could tell had any problems. The test was; start out fast almost spinning the rear tire shift into second at high RPMs, then is when you hear what they call slipping. I never do this therefor I was oblivious. I am leaving on a trip from San Diego to Denver in 7 days. Talk To Me guys and gals. ~ Michael 1985 brown 37K


Michael, The springs are the probable culprit on the clutch. They just get weak over the years. Barnett replacement springs would be my choice. As for the front fork seals, welcome to the club. Normal wear-out item. New seals, new fluid and, if you want to improve the front-end feel a little, new Progressive suspension springs. BUT, BE CAREFUL, some of the members have gotten a bum deal on the new springs because they either got the wrong ones or the spacers where not properly put in. ~ Tracy



I had visited your web site due to problems I had with my 86 Cavalcade. I had bought it in October 2000. The first thing I noticed was the secondary gear case was leaking at the drive shaft seal. The oil was thin which suggested it was leaking from the engine. After checking this web site I tackled the task. Once I tore down the motorcycle, I noticed ground metal in the gear case. The Suzuki dealer had told me that another Cavalcade was in the month earlier with the same problem. The cause is the tin plug fitted on the output helix gear; the part number is 09241-25004. The tin fragments had deteriorated the engine seal, which then began to leak. Other problems I encountered was the rear wheel's valve had cracked, front and rear brakes worn, and the front wheel's valve cracked. All were repaired. My frame number is 103662 and frame number below 103774 was suppose to have the same brake pads all around. I ordered all the pads according

to my frame number. The front pads did not fit, the pads from frame number 103774 and above fitted instead. Is this a common problem? Another problem was the Clarion radio. One of my children was changing the stations and it stopped working. Again after searching this web site I contacted the repair center suggested on the site. I was emailed back with a price of $85 labor and $65 parts, which did not include shipping. Since I am an Electronics Technologist I would not think changing the switches a major task. I went to the Digi-Key site to order the switches and found that the switches are $0.282 each with a minimal order of $25 or a $5 handling fee was charged. I had other thing that I ordered to bring the total to $25. I took the radio apart to check on the condition of the switches, curious, and found that two of the 16 switches were still functional.  I placed the radio in a box until the switches came in. I noticed the lithium battery was dated 1985. I checked the part number on it and found it to be a Sanyo CR14250SE. This battery was used in some Apple computers. After checking the Internet I found the battery for $12.95 with free shipping. The web site is  with a part number of B-252 (Lithium CMOS battery PN:CR14250SE).  I am very pleased with my Cavalcade. I had an 82 Interstate before the Cavalcade. I parted the Interstate on eBay to pay for the Cavalcade. The Interstate is worth more in parts than whole! ~ Don Dorion, Kingston Springs, Tennessee



The trusty old Cade has developed a very small oil leak and I can't seem to find it. I found a few drops of oil on the garage floor directly under the mounting bracket for the kickstand. I thought it may be the dreaded transfer case seal leak but I am not too sure. The oil was the colour of engine oil with a couple thousand km on it and did not have any of the gear oil "stink'" of 80/90 weight gear oil. Just to check further I drained the oil from the transfer case (it was not overfilled) and replaced the oil in the transfer case. Afterwards, I cleaned the entire area around the transfer case with de greaser and soap and water. I will try and find where this leak originates but in the meantime does anyone on the list have any suggestions as to its probable location? All the engine side cover bolts are torqued to spec too. ~ Mike


It sure sounds like the dreaded transfer case seal leak Mike. But look on the bright side: repairing that particular leak is well documented and probably the easiest to fix of all possible oil leaks, with the possible exception of a leak around the oil filter. Try taking the drift shaft boot off of the secondary case and see if it has oil in it. If so, the leak might be past that bevel gear oil plug. Mine fell completely out. ~ Spike


I had the same problem. The oil was running out the boot and down the kickstand. I took the gear case off and found metal shavings everywhere. The plug from the output helix gear fell out and meshed up in the gears. The engine seal was damaged from all the shavings. I replaced all the seals in the gear case. My boot was cracked and I replaced it too. Replacing the gear wasn't all that bad. It allowed me to see how the Cavalcade was put together. Also you may want to do a rear break job and change the fluid in the clutch lines too. ~ Don Dorion


Mine did that too, but fortunately the plug did not get caught in the drive bevels. When I took it apart to replace the seals, I cleaned out the driven bevel, then made sure I had all the oil off of it by wiping it with some trichlor (TCA) then gooped Locktite on the plug before replacing it. Of course Ill never get it back out again, but I don’t see why I would ever want to. As for seeing how the Cade is put together, I must complement Suzuki on this. I rode my machine for two thousand miles with no oil in the secondary case {blush}. But when I pulled it apart, there was almost no visible wear on the bevels, which speaks volumes for the inherent sturdiness of the design. ~ Spike


Spike, I just had a similar problem fixed. It started last year with a little drip and this year really began to pour out. I thought it was the overflow tube and I kept trying to push the rubber hose tighter on the little stem at the front of my carb. I had the needles and seats replaced and the bike runs perfect. Much, much, much better gas mileage! ~ Mike Romano, ‘86 Brown Two tone LX



My ‘86 Cade is leaking antifreeze from the "right " side engine cover. It’s dripping out where the cover bolts to the crankcase on the very bottom. What’s behind that cover that could cause a leak? ~ Tom


You may need to replace your water pump.  Tom, I would put my $$ on the overflow reservoir tank having a crack in it. If you check the archives, you will find many that have had the same problem, and solved it by using an epoxy to repair the crack. Good luck and hope your up and running for a motorcycle ride soon. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX


Tom, I had a similar leak when I first got my Cade. We were taking a trip to West Virginia and getting gas I looked down and seen what I thought was oil leak, but upon further inspection found it was radiator fluid. Made it home and took off right side cover and low and behold there is the water pump. Removed water pump and thought it was just a seal but not so lucky. The bearings were shot too. About $180.00 later a new water pump and side cover gasket done the trick. My guess is that my previous owners did not ride the bike much at all and did not bother to start it during winter months. This causes the pump to not be lubed at all and bearings to draw moisture and rust as well. Hope this helps. Change my fluid to Caterpillar anti freeze for aluminum protection. Oh by the way my Cade only had 15000 miles on it when I bought it last year. What a machine! Good luck. ~ Frank in Indy '86 LX



Somewhere (archives, web site, somewhere) I found the part number for a NAPA fuel filter that's supposed to work on the CADE. I picked on up but when I went to install it, it seems that installing it like the stock filter would mean installing it in reverse (fuel flow backwards). Otherwise I'd have to do some weird fuel line re-routing to get the right angle side on the input. Anybody have anymore information on this or another part number? ~ B k walker


I have been using Fram PH6016 filters for years I bought a case of them & they work great. ~ Stinger NAPA fuel filter 3006 is the one that worked for me. It even fit the holder but not exactly. Mine's been in for 1 1/2 years now with no problem. ~ KennG


That's the one I used. If you look at the direction on the filter, and then check out the fuel 'schematic' your find that if you install it with the right-angle in the same position as the factory jobber, the flow is backwards. I think that flowing the fuel through the filter backwards would cause it to clog up faster, but I doubt that it's likely to clog up very soon anyhow. ~ Brenden


My old notes show that was a NAPA #3006. Is that the number you picked up? I haven't bought one yet, but I had an archived message with that #. ~ HeyJerr


Contrary to previous postings, not all of us have installed the NAPA 3006 fuel filter backwards. Spent a few moments tearing into mine again and reliving the installation. I recall there is enough play in fuel lines to install the filter with the right flow and still set in the holder from the original fuel filter. I've got the 90 bend facing the outside of the bike and there is enough room under the side cover. Go 4 it. ~ KennG


The thing is that the 90-bend part of the filter needs to be installed to the line coming from the center of the bike. With the right angle side of the 3006 in the same position as the original filter (facing the outside of the bike) the fuel flow is backwards for the 3006 filter. ~ I can't help but wonder if there is a NAPA fuel filter that uses the same body but has the flow backwards. Maybe I'll stop at a NAPA and check. ~ Brenden



Two years ago when I was looking at the air cleaner and took a look at the rubber air intake I could see that the rubber was very soft and was closing off the ports a little .I couldn't see any need for it so I removed it. I couldn't believe the increase in how much smoother and stronger the Cade ran. I just thought I would pass that along and some of you may take a look at yours. ~ LU


Hmm, you mean the snorkel thing? Removing that should have affected the mixture, particularly at high-speed/full throttle. Get any backfiring when decelerating from high RPM's? ~ Brenden


I took the rubber baffle off my air cleaner cover three years ago and I found it runs much stronger with no mixture problems at all, but I found that it did cause more air intake noise under full throttle acceleration. I also run a free flow air cleaner with no mixture problems. In theory the engine won't drink more air then the stock exhaust system can pee out. I put the baffle back in this year because I like quiet over the extra power; The Cavalcade already has plenty to spare. I guess it comes down to what you like. ~ Myles McKeone



Has anyone had any problems with the oil vent system clogging in the rear end causing gear oil to be thrown all over the rear wheel (not cool). I took the rear tire off and checked the oil seal. It wasn't leaking from there. It’s coming out the vent hole at the top. I haven't over filled it or changed the brand of oil I've been using for three years. I tried a different brand to no avail; it still foams out all over the tire any time I go over about 50-55 MPH. According to the manual the rear end is suppose to separate the oil and the air before the air comes out the vent, then the oil should be returned to the rest in the rear end. Does anyone know any trade tricks to fix this without taking the rear end apart? ~ Myles McKeone



I noticed my oil level seemed a bit high today, it's certainly possible that I added too much last time. It seems like when the oil is really hot (when I checked it) that it drains back more than it would when it's just warm? I just did an oil change today, with the engine pretty hot. After adding a little less than I expected to need, I let it run for a bit (1 minute or so) and then shut off. Let it sit for a minute and topped it up to a bit less than the full mark. I'm pretty sure there's no coolant in my oil (it's still sitting in the pan, in case some decides to separate out later) which was my first suspect. Is there some trick to getting this right? Or do I just ignore the high reading after sitting for a minute when it's fully warmed up? ~ Brenden



I would like to know if any of my fellow Cade riders are using any weight of oil other than the

recommended 10w40. I recall someone recommending 20w50 in an email I read not long ago. I did an oil change and decided to give the Castrol GT 20w50 a try. Am I imagining the change in engine noise and performance or does this really work better? Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! ~ Nick '86 GT


I was using Castrol GTX 20 w 50 for a while. Changed to Spectrol 4 20-w-50 with no problem. Last oil change, they slipped 10 w 40 in and I let it slide. 10 w 40 Spectrol 4 is working fine. Did 2 up and pulling the trailer from Lake George didn't bother the Cade on bit. ~ KennG


I'm using 20-50 Spectro oil. A little expensive, but it makes a world of difference in the noise of lifters, etc. I used the synthetic blend a couple of times but didn't see any difference between it and the regular stuff.  I'm sold on it. I never thought there was any difference in oils, but after reading an article in MCN, I believe there is quite a lot. And my lifters really tell the story. ~ Denny Potoczky, ‘86 Cavalcade LXE


I had a Cade mechanic tell me that he would ONLY use Rotella T (15W-40). He said he has seen engines with 100,000 miles torn down and they looked like new on the inside. I've used it for over 5 years now with no problems. ~ Roy in TX


This year I changed from petroleum-based oil to Golden Spectro 4, 10w40. I couldn't believe the

difference! Quieter (before the loud pipes that is), shifted smoother, less leakage. ~ Brian, ’87 LXE in CT 74500 miles and counting! I have used 20/50 Mobil 1 synthetic auto oil in my Cade and now in my Wing no problems runs quiet and shifting is smooth. I talk to others that use Mobil 1 and have gone 250 K miles. ~ BobL


Though I am not an expert in the field of lubrication I do have formal training in the subject as a result of having my A&P aircraft certification and having sold oil for five years. The single most important thing is to actually change your oil and filter! The next most important thing is to use a name brand quality product that is formulated for your particular usage (motorcycles, marine, aircraft and so on). The additive package that the manufacturer uses is different for each kind of application. I would recommend a 100 percent synthetic motor oil. I have my favorite brand, Amsoil. But any name brand synthetic motor oil is far cry better then petroleum based oil. At high temperatures petroleum-based oil turns to sludge while synthetic oil is still flowing and lubricating. That’s why it is the only kind of oil used in jet turbine engines that turn at over 100,000 RPM. ~ If you are one who rides in cold weather (Below freezing temp's) synthetic oil

flows freely down to extremely low temp's. Unlike petroleum based oil, which becomes very thick and can take a couple of minutes to flow freely. Choose one that is formulated for motorcycles. Motorcycle oil must deal with oil shear because it uses the same oil in the transmission gears as in the engine. Oil shear is where the oil molecules are actually torn apart by the forces between the gears in the transmission. This breaks down the oil viscosity making the oil watery and unable to lubricate and protect your machine. Synthetic oil holds up much better against oil shear. Motorcycle oil also has higher amounts of certain trace metals, anti-foaming agents and anti- corrosion agents (that neutralize combustion acids) to protect the engine at higher revs and temp's then car engines, particularly in the cam lobe and valve stem area. Synthetic oils also have longer drain intervals then petroleum based oil, some as high as 25,000 miles. Though I would

never go that long in a motorcycle engine. Viscosity choices are more important with petroleum based oil, then with synthetic oil at both high and low air temp's. 10W-40 and 20W-50 synthetic oil will cover almost any riding condition possible on a street bike. With petroleum based oil, I would use a 20W-50 in hot weather and go to a 5W-30 if you ride in winter weather. I hope this can be of help to any riders who have always thought that oil was just oil. Ride safe, ~ Myles L. McKeone


I think it's mostly just a rumor. I went to synthetic and then back to Dino on my GSF1200 some time ago, had to switch because that bike has a weak clutch to begin with, add synthetic and it starts slipping. I do remember someone suggesting that running synthetic could loosen up heavy deposits and cause them to plug up oil passages, but I've never heard from anyone that has had that happen. I did have a problem with one really old bike that leaked, going to synthetic caused it to leak more ;-). I wouldn't dream of running it in an old Triumph/BSA or Harley. ~ Brenden


I used 50-weight oil in my Cade and it did quiet things down considerably. A lot of the members of this group swear by Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive to reg.40 weight oil. I did that on my last change and the bike is even quieter, with all the added benefits of the Mystery Oil. ~ Boomer

This is my 12th or 13th Suzy cycle, 3 kid's 2 boys 1 girl I have used Castrol in every one. I lost one set of clutches in a T20; not one other oil related problem, however I suspect, one of the boys ran it after he changed the oil. The shop mechanic said that it showed all the signs of being run for a minute or two, before he remembered to fill the unit with oil after it was drained? I think he was right. ~ Jim Rogers


In engines manufactured after about 1980 almost all vehicles sold in the USA were using oil seals

compatible with synthetic oil by then. If they are in good condition and have been properly serviced with regular oil changes so that there is no build up of sludge in them it is safe to change to synthetic oil. If the engine has higher mileage on it I would recommend running a can of engine flush before you drain the petroleum based oil. If the engine has high mileage and has not been serviced properly I would be careful about making the switch. Synthetic oil has much better detergent properties than petroleum based oil and will try to dissolve the sludge build up which can quickly clog oil tiny passages and oil filters making them run in bypass mode (not filtering any of the oil). You should never run any after market additives with synthetic oil unless it is recommended by the same manufacturer as the oil (for example: Amsoil warns its users never to use the additive "Prolong" with its oil, as it can goo things up). To take the most advantage

of this extra cleaning ability you should use a filter with a synthetic medium in it designed for use with synthetic oil rather then pleated paper, as they filter out particles of much smaller size that are suspended in the oil. This of course makes it more important to change your oil filter when recommended.

Brenden brought up an excellent point about wet clutch performance changing with different oils. This just one important reason to use oil formulated for use in motorcycle engines, as the manufacturers add enhances for wet clutch performance and to prevent glazing of the clutch friction discs. Below are some links to different manufacturer sites on motorcycle oil, enjoy. ~ Myles L. McKeone


I use the Castrol Syntec because I can get it at Costco relatively inexpensively. If I change the oil at 3000- mile intervals do you think it will hold up for that length of time? Except for that slippage in 5th gear the bike seems to run really well. ~ I did a 2500-mile trip in May and really enjoyed it. I just learned to ride in March and the Cade is my first bike. Quite a steep learning curve, but I am getting the hang of it now. Really love the bike. The fellow I bought it from sold because he bought a new GoldWing 1800. When I went to pick up mine he was already talking wistfully of the Cade and I think he really wished he hadn't sold it. ~ One more question, do you have the super brace and do you think it is worth it? I am having a hell of a time at slow speeds...2mph and less. I will have to try some of Tracy's suggestions...steering mounts etc. ~ 3000 miles is ok. Just keep a check on the level. I have done reading on oils online and still believe synthetic or blend is better than pure petroleum; 20w50 Golden Spectro keeps the bike quiet and she starts in the winter months. I don't have a super brace. But, I have a very early bike (3/85). I don't have a wobble problem. I start with basics of tire care (air pressure, keep an eye out for damage, Cycle Care rubber cleaner/preservative) and after 12000 miles and two years, no cracks, wobbles at slow speeds and no damage. I live very close to a bay, so salt could hurt me, but no evidence of it yet. Others in the group swear by the super brace. I have no experience from it. ~ Gerry in NY



Hello all! I just purchased an 86 Cade with 55 K Kilometers on it. The previous owner owned the bike for the past 11 years. The question I have is there seems to be a slight ticking coming from the front of the engine like the sound of a timing chain or possibly valves. The previous owner said it always did that. Because there is not another bike around here to listen too, I am wondering if any of the lifters could give me some insight into it. I have a manual that I am going through and it appears the lifters are hydraulic so there is no valve adjustment. How about the cam chain adjusters? Do they stick some times from lack of use? Or do the lifters become sticky once and a while. Or possibly it’s normal. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Cheers, ~ John


John, Change the oil to a little heavier weight (like 20W50) and maybe even go to a better brand (Spectra, Amsoil, etc.). Make sure it is rated for motorcycles. Some say that the semi and full synthetics also help quiet things down. A little Marvel Mystery oil as an additive once in a while is also a pretty good idea. You can put a little in the gas, too as a top-end lube. ~ Tracy



My 1986 Cavalcade leans while going straight down the road. The bike looks like it leans to the left side. If I let go of the bars the bike immediately travels to the left. If I lean all my weight to the right side then the bike will travel straight. The back tire also seems to be wearing more on the right side. Your frame may be out of alignment. Has you bike ever been dropped in a bad accident? ~ Gerry in NY


I've noticed that mine seems to do this a bit too. I'm wondering if it could be a simple matter of the

windshield not being evenly adjusted? If one side was higher than the other at speed, perhaps it tends to push the bike in one direction or another? ~ Brenden


Regarding the tendency to lean to the left when driving at speed... I noticed this same problem on any of my bikes that had a driveshaft. Most people don't realize the rear wheel is offset a little from the front due to the space taken up by the driveshaft differential assembly. My Virago would do this very slightly under power; the K100RT seemed to want to move left about the same as the Cade. If you can place your weight to the right side and straighten things out I'd imagine everything is normal. ~ My Beemer mechanic explained this to me, and why it was considered necessary by the engineers. That is also why tires seem to wear a little more on the left side. ~ Don Box


Check how you have the bike loaded. If the load is not balanced it will pull to the heaviest side. If your left saddlebag has a lot of junk in it that could be causing your problem. The rear tire is not out of alignment from the front unless your frame is bent. The alignment is true and the tracking is inline. There is no offset because of the driveshaft. It was out of line it would be very squirrelly to ride. Check the distribution of your load, the alignment of your frame. That’s my .02 worth. ~ Gary Fairfield ‘86 TT Blue LXE Jax, FL


I own two drive-shaft bikes and haven't noticed any pulling even under hard acceleration. I think the load question is one to check out. Also I once had tread separation on a rear tire on an automobile and it resulted in all kinds of weird driving tendencies. I'm sure this or a bent rim would cause handling ills on a motorcycle.  Gary, Every shaft bike I know of has the rear wheel slightly offline. It is normal for them to pull to one side when under an even throttle. Take your hands off the bars while in cruise control (preferably on an open road with lots of room) and you'll see what I mean. If your steering head bearings are slack or worn you'll get a wobble so be careful. Also, if your tires are not nearly perfect you'll still get a slight wobble... so be alert. Nothing to panic about but it'll prove my point. (Yes I've done it... first thing I do with a new bike. It’s a good suspension check.) ~ If any bike pulls to one side or the other under acceleration, there is something definitely wrong either in the suspension, alignment or frame. A slight pull is normal under a steady pull or deceleration. ~ FWIW, I usually run with my left/bag empty and my rat/bag has all my emergency stuff, tools and foul weather gear in it. There's approx. 40llbs of gear in there all the time. Bike doesn't pull under load, but STILL will pull slightly to the left if I'm on cruise and lighten my grip on the bars. That's just the way these things are. Honest! :) I've also noticed Cades are very sensitive to tire pressure. ~ Don Box


Don, I have owned the Cade; ‘86, 2 wings; ‘75 and ‘82, a Venture; ‘83, KZ1100A; ‘81. I have driven new Wings, new Ventures, and new BMWs. The mechanic that works on my Cade has owned two Cades himself and now rides a 1500 Drifter. The tires are not offset. The swingarm is offset but the tires will line up perfectly, unless there is another problem. Take a string from the center of your front tire to the center of your rear tire. It should be perfectly parallel with the centerline of the bike. Any bike. Your tires would wear unevenly, the frame would be stressed, and making turns would be downright exciting at any speed. Just going on my experience and the experience of my mechanic. ~ Gary Fairfield, Jax, FL


Don, I thought of the string alignment that is commonly used on dirt bikes also. You make a couple of wraps around the leading edge of the front tire & rim at a height that allows you to run the string ends under the bike past the rear tire. You'll quickly find if the front & rear tires are aligned. If not something has been tweaked. ~ 


I purchased my Cade (early 86 model) last year in August with 36k. It ran good but handled terrible at low speed. It would wobble when I hit small bumps and seemed a bit squirrelly. I first noted that it seemed to lean to one side going at highway speeds and that the handlebars seemed to be crooked. I put it on the center stand, jacked up the front under the engine till the tire was almost off the floor and laid a straight 2x4 down the side of the tires to put them in a straight line. Found that the forks were twisted. I then loosened the triple tree clamps; the fork brace bolts and then proceeded to square up the handlebars to the wheel.  That cured the lean problem. I then put the super brace on, which took the low speed wobble out completely and made me feel that I was more in control. I also checked out the steering head bearings, which were very loose. I tightened them up as per the manual, took a ride and found that they were too tight, it handed worse than ever (would wander side to side on the road). I loosened them a bit until it handled properly.  Handling is very good now. Also when I first got it, it would slip the clutch in 4th and 5th gear when I was accelerating to highway speeds. Took clutch cover off and inspected clutch discs, no

glazing and plenty of material. I then ordered and installed the Bennet clutch springs. Problem solved completely. The clutch is a little stiffer, but you get used to it real fast. I put Mobil 1 15w40 synthetic in after that, it runs a lot quieter and the 1st to 2nd shift no longer grinds. It does not consume any oil because of synthetic. Synthetic oils have been greatly improved over the last 10 years. So don't be afraid to switch to them. ~ Jerry ’86LX Wisc



Hey folks! Question I would like to put to the group (especially the mechanically minded) As some of you know, I was on my way to Americade on a very rainy Sunday, when the Big Red Machine lost power, sputtered a few times and died! My local bike repair shop (Suzuki dealer) picked up the bike the next day and we continued on our way on 4 wheels. Well it's been 2 weeks and it's still in the shop! Apparently, the IGNITION RELAY BOX got water into it (seals were original) and caused the miss-firing problem. They took it apart (water found inside) cleaned it out. And re-assembled it using dialectic grease to reseal everything. They called said she was all ready. I picked it up...and found I was riding the slowest pig on the planet! No power at all! I found I had to run 500-1000 RPM higher to accomplish the same type of gear changes and passing power. Even then it was very, very sluggish. There seemed to be no power-band at all

(usually comes on about 2500RPM). So I took it back...the shop's talking compression tests, valves, major engine overhaul and tune-up! OUCH! It seems to me that everything has to be related to the Ignition relay under the fairing? Are there any ideas or similar occurrences from other members? I think the shop is grasping for straws. Valves? All of a sudden? I don't think so! Thanks for any help ~ Boomer


Sounds like it could be timing if nothing else was messed with. Also, need to check the spark at all plugs, you may still have something wrong with the box they repaired. These things can be missing on one cylinder entirely and you would only know it because of low power. Could have fried a coil when the box went bad. ~ Tracy


The Cavalcade igniter boxes have 4 small holes in the bottom of them. Water, steam, (washing bike) road salt, etc. can and does enter these holes. The circuit board is coated with a plastic coating that cracks over time allowing the moisture to come in contact with the copper circuit board. This produces green copper sulfate that will short out one or both primary ignition feeds from that igniter. More so when wet. Solution: remove the igniter boxes, dismantle and clean the board with a stiff plastic brush and some circuit board cleaner (Electronics store). Be careful not to damage the tracings. When clean re-coat with ---Plastic---ignition spray. (The type that dries like a varnish). Silicon the four small holes up in the plastic case. I've never quite figured out why the holes were put there because they are to small for air venting and there isn't sufficient heat to cause pressure build up. It also could be an ignition coil. Pull one plug wire at a time off insert a spark gap tester in the end of the plug wire (screwdriver will work). ! Careful! This could be a shocking experience! Start the engine, open the gap, there should be spark (if not see above) increase the gap to more than 1/4 of an inch. If spark remains coil is probably ok, if spark disappears that coil is probably no good. ~ Phil



I heard about people trying to modify stock exhaust pipes, anybody know what kind of packing they have? One of mine had flaky black junk that would come out of it and I'm wondering if I could 'flush' the muffler with water and a mild acid or something to clean out any carbon deposits? ~ Brenden


Brenden: Flaky black junk is the remnants of quasi-normal combustion. If the deposits are severe (couldn't tell you what is and what isn't), it could indicate excessive oil burning or excessively rich condition. If you are burning oil, the exhaust will have a bluish tint, if you are burning rich, it will be black. It is a little hard to tell with a bike since the amount of exhaust (as compared to a car) is rather small. If you are getting dry, carbon deposits, that suggests a rich condition. If you are getting oily carbon deposits, that suggests oil (Duh!). If the bike isn't using any (or much) oil, then it, obviously, can't be oil. There are numerous things one can check to pinpoint what is causing an overly rich condition. It starts with the simple things like the air filter and goes clear through to carb float levels, needle and seat condition, slide diaphragms, general carb cleanliness, carb balance (might throw off one or more carbs) and idle fuel jet settings, and ignition timing. I only mention ignition timing because it can affect performance and mileage, however, ignition

timing, unless someone has screwed with it over the years, generally doesn't change much (if any) due to the way that the systems are designed. Taken on as a step by step project, you will be able to find your problem and improve your power and get better gas mileage. By the way, not many OEMs used glass-packed mufflers. They don't last very long. Most (if not all) bikes are supplied with baffle systems (that's why they weigh so much). I suppose you could remove some of the deposits with a soak in something but be careful, you might loosen up more than you bargained for. ~ Tracy


Tracy and all, my exhaust had a packing type of material in the rear part of the muffler (about 8 inches worth). I have drilled my pipes out and removed the packing for a little more exhaust note. I also drilled out the next baffle wall the same way - no packing beyond that though. ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 Cavalcade LXE, 99 Kawasaki Nomad



I think this is a tricky one, and probably I got the solutions from Volvo mechanical here in Sweden. But if not, and in a matter of information, I give you this: When I run my bike in a average of 90-100 mph about 20-30 min., my hydraulic clutch doesn't work at all! It's all soft and before releasing there’s a hydraulic one, I am VERY sure the wire went off! Notice: It never happened with a very hot engine at low rpm. Only the clutch, not brakes or anything else depending on hydraulics. I just can't get a clutch in, and it's a time condition, after a while I can run smoothly as ever with a Cade! Has this happened to anyone else? ~ Micke


Several of the members have run into a similar problem. Changing the fluid in the clutch system is the best cure. Replace with a good grade of brake fluid. Be careful, though, brake fluid eats paint and plastic. ~ Tracy


I have a 2ft by 2ft piece of cardboard duct tape it under the handle bar whenever I remove the reservoir caps, lost paint on a car once when I was doing the brakes. Fluid shot out after I moved the calipers. Nasty stuff! ~ Larry



What do you all think about running on new tires that have been on the bike for over ten years? They are either Metzler or Michelin brand and the bike has been kept inside garage when not in use. I have only ridden the bike less than three hundred miles in the last seven years. I change oil periodically. The bike is still in new condition. I put the tires on wanting a great tire, which for that bike they are great tires. But then again they are made out of rubber. We are moving and will have to travel a couple of hundred miles, and I would rather ride the bike than trailer it. I just had to replace the map pocket. Ouch! Somehow it cracked. Thanks for all who replies ~ Rod, 86 Cavalcade.... Gold LX, with all the LXE ACC.


Rod, Keeping the bike in the garage is a big protecting against ultra violet light which hurts rubber, but check for any age cracks. If any sign of deterioration change them otherwise enjoy the 200-mile trip - I would. ~ Al from Mass


To me new tires are cheap insurance, since you only have two of them. ~ Roy in TX


Say Rod, I'm sure not expert on this. I know state of the art in tire manufacture is far superior to what it was when I was a kid. But, remember all the Clarion radio switches that have had to be replaced in our Cades? The reason is that they were made out of rubber and had deteriorated with age. When you load yourself, a passenger and all your gear on that 800 pound motorcycle, are you going to feel safe at 70 miles per hour on ten-year old tires? ~ Jay


My point exactly. I change the tires on my plane every five years, as a blowout would be catastrophic if I lost control landing. Tires are cheap insurance. I was wondering about the technology of the tires. They might be ok and I hate to throw a perfectly set of tires away. But safety should come first. I only have to travel a couple hundred miles with no passenger. So much is going on and not enough time to take care of it all. But I think I am convinced I need to put this on my list next week, will go order tires tomorrow. Thank you for the reply. Happy Riding, ~ Rod


 Dunlop 491 Elite II or CruiseMax ~ KennG


I just put new tires on my Cade and it is my third set. I put on Avon Venums. The bike feels like a Cadillac.  The best ride and handling tires I have ever had. ~ FYI Tom


Regarding the message about tire brand selection... I've had Metzler, EliteII and presently have CruiseMax on my Cade. I liked the Metz best, but they were VERY noisy. The Elite II's failed on me when coming back from a long ride. There was only about 8K on them and in all honesty it could have been a failure due to picking something up on the road, but to this day I'm not sure. The CruiseMax felt perfect when I first got them. Rock solid stable and I even sent feedback to our group. Since then I'd like to amend my perception of them to include that once broken in they can feel a little squirrelly on uneven surfaces and rain grooves. Nothing to get upset about but just a tactile weirdness that takes a bit of getting used to. The mileage I have on them is still low, about 4K, but the tire seems to be a serviceable low-cost alternative to the higher priced name brands. They don't seem to wear abnormally and have responded quite well in 2 panic situations due to driver inattention. (Think 2 wheel drift and oil on road) Just my $0.02 worth, folks! ~ Don Box


Thanks to all who replied. I just order another set of Metzlers. The front tire is noisy. I hope the new style is not as noisy as the old ones. I also ordered all new tires for the trailer too. Can't be too safe. ~ Rod


Forgot what was involved to remove the rear tire on a Cade with a trailer hitch, marker lights, etc. I decided to have a shop mount and balance the tires, will pick them up tomorrow and install this weekend. I ended up with Michelins. Anyone else out there have Michelins? My previous tires were Metzler Marathons, a very noisy tire. I decided to try Michelin and hope I won't regret it. I have Michelins on all my vehicles and enjoy the smooth ride and tire wear. ~ Rod, ‘86 Cade


Metzler Marathon tires were on my Cade when I purchased it used. I was pleased with the tires. However, the mileage was not satisfactory (about 11,000 miles for both front and rear). I then put on Michelin Hi Tours and was quite please with the ride; however the mileage for the Michelin's were lower than for the Metzelers (about 8,000 miles for both front and rear). ~ I am now running Dunlop Elite II's and have a better ride and handling than with either of the above. The mileage is still out but it appears that I will be getting much better miles on these. A friend of mine normally gets in excess of 20,000 on his Cade running Dunlop Elite II's.  I have the Dunlop 491 Elite II's on my Cavalcade and I've been very pleased with them. I have about 8,000 miles of almost all two up riding on them with plenty of tread to go. ~ Myles L. McKeone


With some research and checking around, after having Michelins prior to Metzler and I have Dunlops on my V65, I decided to try the Commander tire. It’s suppose to be a great tire for the heavy American bikes.... No pretty raised lettering, but great handling characteristics. We’ll see. Thanks to all that have contributed their advice. I did get the ten year plus Metzlers off the bike and we looked at the tire very closely and no signs of ozone wear, no checking or glazing, still looks like a great tire. The tire is still soft. So I am not sure if the old rule applies to the newer tires. Any comments? ~ Rod, ‘86 Cade


Rod, I read the replies to your original question and kept my mouth shut, but here we go, don't stop me until I finish spewing. As I think most of us are aware, just about everything around will age our tires. Sunlight, air, rain, ozone, road grime and goo, soaps, cleaners, etc., Of those, sunlight is the absolute worst. UV-B rays are very short wavelength and contain lots of energy. Look what those rays can do to human skin in the matter of a few hours. There's lots of energy in them their rays. ~ When a tire maker formulates a rubber compound, he takes into consideration a lot of factors. Traction, heat dispersion, wear characteristics, moldability, and, very importantly, UV degradation protection. If left un-stabilized against the effects of UV, a tire probably wouldn't last a couple of months before it started to degrade in some fashion. Maybe not visibly, but the compound would be changing. ~ One of the best UV inhibitors around is carbon black. And, what color are tires? However, not everything black contains enough carbon black to get the job done. For example, when was the last time you left an inner tube outside? I can tell you that there is not enough CB in an inner-tube to resist UV but for a very short time and the rubber starts to get brittle and after a about a year outside, it crumbles into little pieces. ~ Tires, however, are very well stabilized against UV. They’re better today than ever before. Even a 10 year old tire that hasn't seen much daylight is going to have the majority of it's UV stabilizer left, intact, ready to go to work. But, another bad boy is air. And it's pretty tough to keep the air off it unless your going to send it into space (depends on how bad your driving is I suppose). Even without sunlight, simply being exposed to air is attacking the rubber. ~ Some of the effects of age are not so apparent with just the un-aided eye test. If one could actually cut a section from the tire rubber and put it in a tensile machine, then you might be able to learn something.  But, short of that, there's very little one can do to test for degradation. I suppose you could use a hand hardness tester (durometer) and see if there's been any hardening. But, even then, a slight change in hardness may not be indicative of degradation. Yes, rubber does get harder with age (mainly due to the slow release of plasticizers), but how much is too much? It might take 20 years for the hardness measurement to show any substantial change when the rubber was way past it's prime in 6 or 7 years due to other effects that have caused severe damage to the compound that don't show up as increased hardness.  Since compounded rubbers are cross-linked (vulcanized), then there could be substantial cross-link damage that just wouldn't show up until the tire was at temperature, running down the road at a high rate of speed with a heavy load on it. ~ So, in the end, it is always better to be safe than sorry. It might look and feel fine to your un-aided eyes and hands, but inside, there may be lurking a time-bomb that could go off at any moment without much (if any) notice. Especially when taxed with the immense weight of a Cavalcade ridden two-up with everything but the kitchen sink in the bags and trunk, at 70 MPH on a hot road, on a hot day. ~ Find something else to do with the tires, or sell them to someone with a much smaller bike. ~ Tracy



My right shock is leaking and the dealer says he can’t get them any more. What can I use? ~ Dan, Gray GT, Ohio


Progressive Suspension carries fork springs and 2 type of shocks for the Cavalcade. Fork springs are a replacement for stock and are a bit stiffer. Shocks come in two flavors, air and regular. I opted for the regular shock (412) as a replacement, not knowing if I had a shock, compressor, or air leak. Had the 412's put on at Americade for $353 total (shocks plus installation). I'm not sure of the number or the price on air shocks. At Americade, shocks, kit, and installation was less than $500. Check Competition Accessories in Springfield, Ohio. Best I can tell you. Any HELP would be appreciated. ~ KennG


Check Progressive Suspension at Competition Accessories. Just put the 412's on mine and am happy as all get out. Not sure what I'm gonna do when I check out and tune up my air compressor and system.  Progressive also makes air shocks for the Cade. CA has shown me the best price. ~ KennG


Dan, Get Progressive Shocks for the 1200 GoldWing part 1626A that's what I got on mine. $369.95 *did I really pay that much for them?* probably... * shrug* they have a rebuild parts page, you may want to check into that.  ~ Dan in DFW



I just bought an 80/100-watt headlight bulb. Has anyone put one of these in before? I was concerned with the wiring being able to handle the extra 2.5 amps of current on low beam and about 4 amps extra on high beam. Wondering if I have to get some relays and make a little harness from the battery. Thanks ~ Greg



Anyone have any recommendations to glue the post on the side covers? I know someone has done some experimenting with adhesives. What kind of material is the cover anyway? It must be something between ABS and polystyrene plastic. ~ Rod


Rod, If you have the broken off piece, here's something I have done with reasonable success. The side covers are made from ABS plastic (as with most farings and such). Clean the end of the broken piece with coarse sandpaper so that you have clean raw plastic showing. Do the same for the mating surface on the side cover. Mix up some good quality epoxy and put a decent dose of cut up fiberglass fibers or carbon fibers in it (the epoxy and fiber or carbon can all be bought at a hobby store that caters to RC plane builders). When I say cut up, I mean about 1/4" to 3/8" long. Use an epoxy with a little working time (say 10 or 20 minutes) so that you have time to mix the fibers well and work it into the repair.  With a small stiff brush (I actually buy cheap 1/2" wide paintbrushes and cut the bristles to about 3/4" long), work the epoxy/glass mixture into the repair feathering the applied material out so that it covers a circle about an inch in diameter. Work the fibers up the side of the post to get good coverage on the broken piece. You can always go back and sand off the excess, so don't be too concerned about keeping it all the same shape and size. The main thing is to beef up the area with the epoxy/glass mixture. Let cure thoroughly before messing with it (a day or more). If you have lost the broken piece, a new one can be made from about any material and attached in the manner stated above. ~ Tracy


To repair the side cover post another good repair is to drill a 1/8 inch hole into the center of the broken piece and also into the boss located on the back side of the side cover. Clean the broken ends off good. Insert a piece of metal rod 1/8 into this hole covered good with a compatible epoxy or glue and let set, before trying to insert posts into rubber grommets coat both the grommet and the post with Vaseline or white lithium grease makes removal next time so much easier. Also for anyone taking these pieces off for the first time in years maybe? Take an acid brush and force Vaseline or white lithium up and around post and grommet and most cases they will come apart without breaking off, could also spray wd-40 with its little red tube up onto them, and still coat them before re-assembly. Side covers should be loosened at the bottom first and pulled straight down to disengage the posts that go up into seat bottom. ~ Walter in Maryland



Does anyone know where I can get a used pair of chromed engine covers? I have a GT model that had the aluminum covers. They are starting to show their age. The clear coat is starting to loosen and it is oxidizing under the finish. I've tried a few things to clean it up but don't have any luck. I've been told that they can be refinished (polished & re-coated), but I think the chrome would be a better solution. Ant input would be appreciated. Thanks everyone! ~ Mark Grey on Grey GT, OH started last year with a little drip



I have seen some email about moving the handlebars back. They said to turn the handle bar mounts around. I tried to do this but was unable to find a way to get a tool on the mounts to turn them. Help! ~ Bob Morse, ‘86LX


BOB, I bolted the clamps on and used a short extension to turn the supports. ~ LU 


I used a big pair of vice-grips (carefully!) ~ Brian, ‘87LXE in CT



Don't forget the little things when checking the intercom like the HS/SP switch... ;-) Dan


Guys, This is one I've not seen answered or mentioned. What is the power output of our Clarion AM-FM/ Cassette? ~ Andy Midland, TX


Andy, If you have the CD, go to the radio manual. It’s on the front page of the manual. 8 watts x 2 at 3% distortion, 12 watts x 2 at maximum output. ~ Tracy



All, I've sent for my CD/ROM on the Cade, but thought I might get a quick simple question answered while I wait. How does one set the radio’s preset buttons? I've tried most of the usual methods, for newer car/truck radios, but they don't work. Got to be something simple that I'm missing. HELP!

1. Select the AM or FM band.

2. Tune to the desired station.

3. Press the ME button...the letters ME will illuminate for 5 seconds on the Audio Display.

4. While ME is illuminated, press any of the preset buttons 1 through 4. The radio station is now preset.

Hope that helps. ~ Rick



I had ordered a battery from an online site to replace the one in the Clarion radio. The battery didn't have solder leads. I tried to solder to the ends of the battery and destroyed the battery ($12 gone). I searched for a battery with solder connections. The correct battery part number is a Sanyo CR14250SE-SP1 (SP1 meaning axial leads). A web search revealed a company in Canada, Global Electronic Supplies  that caries this battery (PN: COMP7-5 $15.52 each with minimal $20 order cheaper after exchange). ~ I also replaced the switches on my radio. Now it works again. There were only 2 of 16 switches still working. I now have to check a charging system problem. If anyone want to know where to purchase a battery with the sensor hole, Wal-Mart and Sam's Club caries a Champion battery for $40 at Wal-Mart and $29 at Sam's Club. They are regular stocked items and they include a 1-year warranty. ~ Don Dorion



Pulled a bonehead the other day and lost my right-hand speaker grill on the expressway. Anyone have one they are willing to part with? ~ Chuck - '86 LX


Chuck, I know this is too little too late...Should have shared sooner, my bad. What I did to keep that from happening again was to use a very long twist tie to secure that lil devil to the bike. I looped one end around the speaker mounting screw and the other end I tied around the speaker cover louver. Works like a champ. I would have 'lost' the cover at least 20 times a week. BTW replace the grommets at the YAMAHA place there cheaper there... part #90480-13398-00 @ $.75 ea. VS $1.25 @ Suzuki ~ Dan in DFW



Do you do HAM radio and Motorcycles We are starting the East Coast Chapter of MARC - Motorcycle Amateur Radio Club - If you join you will get a free web site 50megs, and a pop email account. We are a new group, less then 20 members. But isn't that how this group started? Check out Sign our guest book. It will make me feel good. Thanks, ~ Paul Gruhn 86 Cade LXE KB1 GWO




I pulled out my 86 LX yesterday, the first opportunity to ride in weeks and unplug the Battery Tender (Brand Name), turned the key and pushed the starter. It turned over for a second and upon the second try everything went DEAD. No dash lights or anything. Is this just the case of an old battery (about 3 or 4 year old) that will not take a charge or something more? If battery - any suggestions on where to find a good one (with the sensor -or can you reuse the old one?) HELP please... Thanks, ~ Dan, ‘86 LX


I use the local NAPA Store or GNB Batteries. I'm not sure but I think any Delco parts store can help. Cost for the best NAPA here is approx. $65.00 with sensor, cheaper without. If the old sensor is ok, you can change it to the new battery. The odds are it is good. Have a nice day ~ JR


Dan, Check the main battery connections and any large wire connections coming from or to the fuse block.  Could be the battery is fine but, since everything went dead, it is probably a connection. ~ Tracy


Hi, Take the battery out & have it checked. It might have a dead cell. Auto zone or some of battery stores will check out the battery. Start with the easy way. ~ Dennis R.


I know that someone suggested that if it turned out to be the battery, NAPA or somewhere else has them for about $65.00. I get my batteries at Wal-Mart for about $29.00 and so far they have always given me about three years service. Just a thought ~ I lost a cell on my battery once, read fine with no load and very load voltage as soon as the key was turned on. When the cell went, the motor started to turn over and then everything went dead. ~ Robert Jones


Dan, I will usually change my battery every two years even if it seems good, I think its cheap insurance. I will usually change the sensor at the same time since it just plugs in I have used an old sensor once with no problems I did scrape the lead tip with a knife to remove the old deposits. This was just my idea there may not be any reasons to do this it just sounded good at the time. ~ Roy in TX


Several months ago, I went to start my cavalcade, which had been only sitting for a couple of days and nothing happened. Though the radio worked, and so did the lights, I could get nary a sound when I tried to start it. I knew that the battery was new in early 98. My experience on my Honda 750 was that a battery only lasts about 3 years, and I was over the limit in this case. Since a battery should be replaced no later than every three years I opted to first buy a new battery, and then see what happened. My manual showed that the starter will draw upwards of 80 amps to start, and so when I saw that, I had good reason to think it was just the battery. I bought a new battery, put it in, and the bike fired right up. The Cavalcade has such a heavy draw of amps when starting; I was not surprised nothing happened with a battery near the end of its useful life. ~ Peter Linden



Several months ago, I went to start my cavalcade, which had been only sitting for a couple of days and nothing happened. Though the radio worked, and so did the lights, I could get nary a sound when I tried to start it. I knew that the battery was new in early 98. My experience on my Honda 750 was that a battery only lasts about 3 years, and I was over the limit in this case. Since a battery should be replaced no later than every three years I opted to first buy a new battery, and then see what happened. My manual showed that the starter will draw upwards of 80 amps to start, and so when I saw that, I had good reason to think it was just the battery. I bought a new battery, put it in, and the bike fired right up. The Cavalcade has such a heavy draw of amps when starting; I was not surprised nothing happened with a battery near the end of its useful life. ~ Peter Linden


You said you had absolutely nothing come on after the first start lights or dash. Try moving the key around a little. I had the same problem a few days ago. Apparently, there is a spot where my key can sit that doesn't allow full contact for the electricals. ~ HeyJerr ‘86 LXE San Jose, Calif.



I bought an Interstate battery that had the sensor hole already in it. Yes it's true that some have simply drilled a hole and kept the sensor. Choice is yours. Personally...I opted to keep the sensor. Lets you know when you're low on battery juice if nothing else. It'll show a battery problem when you park on the side stand before it becomes a big battery problem. ~ KennG


I am replacing the battery and expect to go to a sensor-less battery to save dollars. I have the resistors to do a bypass for the sensor, but did some checking before I bought the battery. I believe the resistors will provide a 6VDC signal to the LCD display? I checked the signal with my current battery and sensor. I am getting just under 3VDC. I used an analog meter first but was suspicious that I may have been dragging the signal down. The digital meter gave me a reading of 2.2VDC engine off, and 2.95 engine running. At 2.95 the battery indicator on the LCD is just toggling on and off. ~ What generates the signal from the sensor? Is there an applied voltage being modulated, or is the signal generated from the sensor contacting the acid? Is the sensor actually measuring specific gravity? ~ Will a new battery give me a signal in the 6VDC range? ~ Do I remember seeing where someone simply drilled out a cell cap and inserted the sensor that way? ~ Chuck


You can put the hole in the top of the battery almost anywhere, without too much trouble. The sensor must fit snug obviously. ~



Hi all. Had a great time at Americade. I may have a problem. I had very uneven voltmeter readings. I read from 9.1 up to 14.4. I am going to check the resistance from the stator and the regulator/rectifier. It just started happening. It started a couple of days before I left and happened for a few days while at Lake George. I changed the stator last year the week after Americade. The bike starts fine, yet the lights and dash dim when the voltage drops. Any thoughts? Also, who's regulator's have been more reliable from the  page? (I read the posts this morning). ~ Gerry in NY


Does the dimming happen when the fan is running? Could be the fan draw. ~ KennG


No, never when the fan is running. I will do the 5,000-rpm test tonight. I'll let you know. ~ Gerry in NY


Hi, just a late thought, check the fuses and the wire harness connection to the fuse block. Sounds silly, but it happened to me once. ~ Gerry in NY



I found this panel meter and ordered one. I had a dead battery last weekend that cased a problem in my charging system. I noticed there is no volt meter on the Cavalcade only a level indicator. This meter is fully encapsulated in ABS and there is a sealing bezel for it. The total cost is $41 including the bezel. The web site is: This may be a good link to share with all the other members. Thanks, ~ Don Dorion, 86 LX

Very Nice Don, Where did you mount it? ~ Jay


I am mounting it next to the radio LCD in the right faring. There is a space available behind the front. I will have to cut a square hole but since the size of the meter is small it shouldn't offset the looks of the dash. The connection will be to the accessory screw terminal on the fuse box. I was thinking of a temperature sensor on the left side. I have not found one yet. ~ Don


Since I put my voltmeter on, I have found that while running on a trip the voltmeter generally stays in the 14-volt reading. However, on occasion it will drop down to or 10 volts and will stay there until it calls for charging? I guess it works this way as running for 1-1/2 hours or two hours at a constant 14 volt charge I would certainly think it would stop charging for a while, to keep from constantly overcharging the battery. It seems as though this is the pattern in my case anyway. When its in the LOW voltage area, I just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't go any lower than 9 or 10 volts. Sure enough it will gradually build back up to 14 volts. That has been the pattern since I installed it last summer sometime. And that’s with the 55-watt running lights on and the fan. ~ Walter n Maryland

PS: my voltmeter is the auto type with a needle, range from 8 to 18 volts, hooked directly to the battery.


I had the same problem...Try tightening the battery connection bolts. Dan in DFW TX



Hi guys, last week I changed my battery for a new one because it was too low to start the Cade. 3 days later the new one is also too low to start my bike. Do you have any ideas of what might cause the problem? ~ Jean from Quebec City


See site: Follow the flow. But more than likely its the Stator or regulator or bad connection. ~ BobL

Before you jump into stator/ rectifier problems, check the two black wires off the battery that go to the rectifier. There is a double plug just about in the area of the battery overflow if that plug has gotten acid into it could be bad  not allowing the rectifier to put out enough charging voltage. This happened on my bike and with headlights on & running ran the battery down. I had to completely cut the old plug out and replace it with two new butt splices. She started charging at 14.5 volts. I haven't had any problems since (knock knock!). I checked all the wires off the stator and rectifier, and they read proper readings. There is one reading that will be way off unless you have the Suzuki tester. All the others were so close i just didn't worry about that one. When, and if, you ever put on an amp. Meter you will wonder about the charging system, as it will drop way down with lotza lights on fan on at an idle. It may even drop down while riding but when battery reaches a preset voltage will start charging again. That's the way mine works anyway. I guess it's made to work like that so the battery will not constantly over-charge. Those two black wires and

connector are definitely worth a check, maybe a double check ~ Walter n Maryland


Check the electrical system for a voltage draw, Disconnect the ground wire insert a DVOM in line and check the read out if you have a reading you have a battery drain prob. you can determine where the drain is by removing fuses until the problem zero's. This will be the problem circuit. You can then make your decision on the needed repair work. ~ Jim Rogers


The rectifier went up in a puff of smoke and blew the 30-amp breaker near the battery. I have had 2

rectifiers from Rick's do this to me. Has anyone else had a similar problem? The original rectifier just quit working without any of this drama, one of the diodes on the starter side opened up on the original one. Jean, You didn't say whether the new battery was dry (to which you had to add the acid), or wet (acid already in it). Sometimes, dry charged batteries are not fully charged after you add the acid. In fact, I believe the instructions for the one I bought indicated that it would only be 75% even after you let it sit for awhile. Maybe, just maybe, there wasn't enough of an initial charge and you worked it too hard (starts VS runtime). Or it's a drain when the bike is off, or it's your charging system. ~ Tracy



My horn was not very loud, especially when stopped. All the connections had been tested and the horns seemed o/k. After squirting some brake cleaner up into the horn switch, they came back to life with full volume. They are now louder than ever and even seem as loud as those on a car. One word of caution –make sure you don't get any cleaner on your plastics - cover them up well. ~ Rick - Toronto, Ontario Canada Maroon 1988 Cavalcade LXE




I too have seen those pipes and wonder what kind of exhaust tone and effect on performance they (the 32") would have? I would go for a little more rumble myself for the thrill and to be heard by some motorist! ~ Nick


Nice sounding mufflers for under $150 ~ I bought the 32" turndowns from JC-Whitney. Installed pretty easily (and hour or so). The look is much nicer (3" output) and sound pretty good, I'd almost say too loud but. Nah ;-) If you go this route, buy the brackets but not the clamps. Their web-site seems to indicate that you need clamps (for tightening where the muffler attaches to the pre muffler) but they come with the mufflers. I've got an extra pair (sans bolts) if anybody needs them. There were only two fabrication jobs. The straps for mounting didn't quite make it to the original muffler bolts. They were too short. I whipped out two short (2.5") aluminum bar pieces to make up the extra. And of course there is not a stop for the center stand. The good news is that the lever sits nicely right on the bottom of the muffler. So I cut out a small square of rubber gasket material, scuffed up the chrome and attached with hi temp RTV. That should keep it from rattling.

Clearance is good. On the center stand the mufflers are pretty close to the axle bolt, but they don't touch. At this point I think the only thing I may worry about is too much heat on the bottom of the saddlebags. I never bothered seeing if the OEM mufflers were perhaps double-wall and stayed a bit cooler in that area. On the other hand, these mufflers are probably 1.5" farther away that the OEM jobs due to their smaller size. And there’s no problem with ground clearance either. From the look of it (I didn't use a straight edge or anything) I'd be scraping the panniers about the same time.  Muffler: 01ZX7037U, Bracket: 01ZX1105N If you order the muffler they'll show up as "Fishtail & Turned Out/Down Mufflers & Pipe-Turned out/down", not sure why but I got the right ones anyhow.  I'm pretty sure the jetting hasn't been affected in any appreciable way. I let it warm up a bit (5 minutes or so) until it would idle (mostly try to idle) then went out for a short trip. It ran like I'd expect it to, a bit cold but nothing unusual. ~ Unless I get deceleration backfiring when it's warm, I'll probably not bother checking the plugs until I feel like swapping them out. Which reminds me, when I bought the Splitfire plugs (# on the Cade page) ~ Dennis


One question, that perhaps somebody reading this thread can answer. How much crossover is there in the pre-muffler between the two sides of the exhaust? ~ I've noticed when cold and on choke that I get a bit of rich looking smoke. Nothing too noticeable unless there is a light shining on it but it comes just from the left side. I think that the choke cable on that side may be a bit tighter than the right, which might explain it. ~ Brenden


Good information! I'll add it to my "Interchangeability" list. Let us know how the new pipes affect the way the engine runs, OK? I guess the way to check if the carbs need re-jetting is to check the plugs. So it might take a little effort. I would suggest a plug reading after a couple of days of 'round-town riding, and another reading after a while on the road. ~ I also want to thank you for letting us know how it went. At that price, a few of us might just change the pipes 'just because.' After all, who needs an excuse to work on his/her scooter? ~ Andy, Midland, TX


The parts are from JC-Whitney: Muffler: 01ZX7037U, Bracket: 01ZX1105N Installation time took about 1 hour or so, pretty easy. I did need to wait overnight for the hi-temp RTV to cure, I used it to secure a 'bumper' for the center stand on the bottom of the muffler. Seems to work pretty well, I've only done about 50miles so far and here's a couple of observations: 

1) Turn 'em out not down. When I had them turned down the sound reflected off the ground and then back to the panniers... pretty loud. Still loud though.

2) I don't think I could capture the sound very well with the portable equipment I've got, and I lack the ambition to bring down a mixing board and good mikes. But, imagine a herd (well 4) 500+cc dirt bikes with good free flowing exhaust.... Barking in unison ;-)

Brenden: Did you by any chance get a picture of those pipes you installed? I did a STOOPID thing last week as I got all caught up in the Americade nuttiness and I attempted to remove the baffles from my pipes. One came out, one didn't. Both cannot be reused, and Cheryl does not like the noise. I was wondering if these mufflers would take out a lot of that raw sound and make it more tolerable? Let me know. I need replacements! ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


Well, there should be a picture in the archives here. I haven't had a chance to take any better pictures, as soon as it gets sunny I want to ride. These mufflers are a bit loud. I haven't had a sound meter on them. But it's fairly deep and at highway speeds just audible above the wind noise. Perhaps it’s a bit noisier for the passenger. Just make sure to mount them turned out and not down, otherwise the noise bounces up from the ground into the saddlebags and gets annoying. ~ Brenden


Gerry: JC Whitney is selling them for $69.98 each – part number 01ZX7037U – you will also need part 01ZX1105N which is the bracket that holds it up. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


Anybody know the part numbers for the seals? Somebody mentioned LCM sports as a place to get them. But I can't find the parts based on the numbers I got from the parts book. I'm not sure if I need to change them yet, I did the "Walter Early-indicator" mod and it seems there's some oil in my drive shaft. I'm hoping that, due to it being on the center stand. It was just collected near the rear and as soon as I took it out for a ride the collected oil emptied into the catch tube. The good news on that front was that I checked the secondary drive and it was still properly filled. ~ Brenden Walker Hi All, Got home from Laconia & Bar Harbor, Maine this past Monday. After riding a wing for years, without a doubt the CADE is the Cadillac of motorcycles. I had a lot of comments on how nice it is and how big they are. We had almost 2500 mi. and were not ready to call it quits. ~ But I do have a question. I lowered the windshield but it is still too high for me. Any idea where I can get a lower one? ~ Gary 87LXE in PA


Why not MAKE the one you have a lower one. Any glass shop should be able to help. ~ KennG


I have seen other people cut down their windshields. They have said that after cutting down the windshield they sanded the edges smooth and then smoothed them out with a torch. The final result looked like a factory job. ~ Rick



For Sale Off a 1986 Brown & Gold LX: Front & Rear fenders ~ Faux Gas Tank ~ Side Covers ~

SaddleBags ~ Trunk. Perfect Condition. Sell single items or as a package. ~ Rob Wynne,


For Sale: 2-cavalcade belt buckles-$35.00 ea. 1-jean jacket with Cavalcade embroidered. On back size xl-$40.00 2-cavalcade T-shirts white 1 L, 1 XL. - $12.00 each. 1-original Cade patch- $10.00 1-new Cade truck insert bag-$30.00 1-set of air wing smoke for cade. -$20.00 2-cade pins. - $5.00 ea. 2-cade pins logo-$5.00 1-original perfect rear mud flat- $35.00 several brochures and owner manual. -$10.00 buy all above for lump one price--$175.00. 1-cruise-$25.00 1-rear wheel with rotor-$30.00. 1-perfect drive shaft-$100.00 1-fake gas tank perfect brown-$30.00 2-ing switches with key. Both -$20.00. 1-right saddle top-$25.00 1-left saddle bag and top-$40.00 1-side covers with chrome both-$20.00 or you can buy everything listed on this page for $400.00 - plus shipping David Bedford, phone no. 423-282-8007 or email:


Hey all! I got an email from Cavalcade owner Mr. Jim Startt explaining that he has parts for sale. Please view the list below and if there is any interest PLEASE email or call Jim direct. His phone is 410-822-7423 and his email is   He prefers to sell items 1-9 as a set and items 10-12 individually.


1. Used front engine guard in good condition.

2. Trunk Rack, Large # 99950-70050

3. Marker Lamp Switch & Wire harness kit for Access. New in Box. # 36500-24860

4. Travel Trunk Trim Set, Chrome, New in Box, #94880-24A00

5. Front Disc Cover Set, Chrome, New in Box. #59230-24A00

6. Travel Trunk Rack, Small, in very good condition. All Hardware, #95830-24A00

7. CB Co-Rider Rem-Con Kit, New in Box, #37800-24830

8. Travel Trunk Marker Set, New in Box, #36500-24840

9. Tail Marker Lamp Set, New in Box, #36500-24830

10. 1 LXE Seat with Minor Flaw in Seam. $125.00 Firm

11. 1 Change Compartment, Good but not perfect.

12. 1 Vanity Mirror, Screws Missing.

All postage and ins. assumed by buyer



Just a thought, as my Cade approaches 40,000 miles I'd like to have a voltage regulator/rectifier and a stator on hand. Is there any interest in approaching Eletrex USA or other company with a bulk order? This group has shown there is savings and power in numbers, maybe they would make say 40 stators (10%of our number) which they don't show available now. Open for discussion. ~ Larry



Need to replace missing plate that was on top at the luggage rack. It was metal and held on with acorn nuts.  Also want to upgrade to LXE options. ~


I need the fender for ‘86 Cade (front) also clutch pack ~ John in Colville, WA


Anybody know what the proper adapters are for the vacuum ports on the Cade? I've got a nice carb-stix but never needed to use any of the adapters it came with (until now) and so... Well, they got used for other things I think. Is there anything I can get at the local hardware store that'll do the job? Thanks, I only got 30mpg as of this morning, beats the 27 I read last time but that was done 70% highway one-up. Ack! ~ Brenden Walker DRB Systems Inc.


They're metric threads and use an o-ring seal. A screw with a hole drilled up the center, a nut screwed on,

and the head cut off would resemble what is sent with the stix. ~ Tracy


Pulled a bonehead the other day and lost my right-hand speaker grill on the expressway. Anyone have one they are willing to part with? ~ Chuck, '86 LX


Does anyone know were to get a passenger armrest for & 86 LX? Brown 2-tone dark? ~ Dennis R. email:


I want some armrests with black vinyl for my 86 too. ~ Randy, Decatur IL


A 1200 Goldwing armrest will fit all the Cades. I hope this is helpful. They run around $120. ~ Nancy, AKA Motherwind



I have installed the Radio Shack tester along with a toggle micro-switch in the positive lead. The switch and weatherproof cover Radio Shack numbers are 275-634B and 275-1596 respectively. ~ Chuck Rudd



I told everyone I would get the info for lights on front of Cades. Here it is Lockhart Phillips part # 122- 9993 amber lights with aluminum backs. One catch is you need a fender rail to mount them on. I looked at another Cade and his does not have a fender rail so that is a small hurdle. Hope this helps. ~ Frank in Indy



Anybody tried making their own seat covers? I can get synthetic sheepskin cheap enough, just not sure how to go about attaching it. ~ Brenden Walker


I have made a seat cover from a real sheepskin (whole skin from a lamb) as my seat was cracked real bad. I use Velcro (hook & loop) I positioned the strips on my seat then matched them up on the under side of the skin and it works real well with the added bonus of being able to remove it in wet weather, washing or when parked up in an undesirable location. ~ Phil UK LX85



5,200 Mile CADE FOR SALE

It is a 1988 LX It has 5200 miles the first owner bought it and let it set except for 2 days out of the year to tag it I have put a new tire on the back. It has a small crack on the right lower other than that you will not get closer to a new one than this one it run great. If you want to look at a picture, go to Cavalcade_USA and look at photos look at BoJoe’s Cade that’s it. The price will be 5500.00 N.A.P.L. Not to much for a bike that is like new. I live in Rogers Arkansas. That is 80 mile from Branson if you have any questions, e-mail me at

It may be necessary for me to sell my Cavalcade. Bike runs perfect; everything works... no major cosmetic problems except the seat, which needs to be completely re-done. 80K miles. New rubber, carbs just taken down and cleaned. Full service records for the last 7 years. Asking $2800.  ~ Don Box

Selling my 1988 Cavalcade LX, Silver, 29.000 miles. It looks and rides great. Asking $4,000. Just had tune up and work on the driveshaft, (all new seals), and also a new windshield. Add on's, lights, rail with lights on all bags, and air horn. ~ Raymond Holmes, Genoa Ohio, Email:


I'm interested in selling my 86 Cavalcade ..  has 46000km...excellent shape...asking $6000. Canadian funds ~

Al Hooge, 604-814-3026



The Dangers of Synthetic Oil

Authored by: Aaron Bockelie

Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your beloved motorcycle. It will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action. Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically, dropping your bike on the ground! But that's not all... Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. It will also splatter onto your seat, causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and she'll never ride with you again. Synthetic oil coats your sight window and your timing window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight and your dog will drink it and die. Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies and on weekends. It will lubricate four timing belts causing them to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots night before you walk across your new carpeting. While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It also dries out your wet clutch and wets your dry clutch. It makes your clutch slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year. Particularly while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure. Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts super glue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your face shield and make your gloves shrink two sizes night before track day. Synthetic oil stole your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25.  Synthetic oil will make you grow a tail. Synthetic oil will write long crazy e-mails to your Internet friends and then sign your name at the bottom.