The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #12 ~ July, 2001

Jay D. Johnson, Editor


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CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri. You can visit their web site at

Plans include exhibits and displays by suppliers; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises. Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.

You should get your reservation in early. There are only 65 rooms blocked for our group with a special discounted rate. Half of those are already reserved. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Ownerís Group meeting ("CADE RAID 2002") to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a tentative rate of $55.00 per night. They do not expect this to change. However they will not be able to guarantee this rate until September of this year. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer. The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553. Those who wait until the last minute will have a difficult time finding lodging.



We have come into possession of ONE heel/toe shifter. The donor has asked that we dispose of it fairly. Hence, "Heel/Toe Raffle" Send $5 and a self addressed stamped envelope to Kenn Gibbs, 47 Hoffman Ave. Geneva, NY 14456. Tickets go on sale as of this announcement. Sale ends Sept 1, 2001. Drawing on Labor Day. Shifter will be shipped to winner. One stipulation: winner has to pick a charity to receive 50% of proceeds and 50% will be used as seed money for patches, pins etc. Ticket sales starts NOW. ~ KennG


Fellow Caders, I have some news about the Cavalcade CD-ROM. ~ Firstly, I just completed a rather substantial update to the CD. Thanks to some gracious members and Rick Gervasi (aka Mr. Suzuki Repairman), additional information has been added to the CD-ROM. Namely, three new magazine articles from the day (they're in black and white, sorry), a sound system troubleshooting guide, headset junction wiring installation, improved photos for the corner lights installation manual, additional installation instructions for the saddlebag trim, front disc covers and exhaust extensions.

Also, for those of you that already have a prior version of the CD, I have created a download page where you can access everything that has been added since the first issue of the CD. WARNING! If you don't have a cable modem or DSL it could take some time to download the entire update. Since I use a rather low compression when I make the Acrobat files (helps maintain image quality), some of the files are quite large and WinZip doesn't do very much for Acrobat files. I am, however, making available an updated CD to those that already have it. There is more on that later in this e-mail. ~ If you want to download some or all of the updates, click this link Error! Bookmark not defined.

To make it easier to purchase a new CD-ROM, I have added it to my business shopping cart and you can order a CD ($22 US or $25 International) on-line with a credit card through my secure server by clicking this link Error! Bookmark not defined.. Please note that link will take you to my business product order page and there is a link at the top left corner of that page to order the Cavalcade CD-ROM. But, hey, if you own a RV or know someone that does, go ahead and look over my entire site Error! Bookmark not defined.. It might be something you could use.

If you already have the CD and don't have high download speed (or, maybe, you're just a little lazy :-), you can order an update CD for just $5 ($9 International). This is only for those that already purchased CD dated prior to July of 2001 (look on the CD label to tell). I have paperwork on everyone that has ordered a CD. Order it on-line with a credit card through my secure server by clicking this link Error! Bookmark not defined..

If you have any questions or problems, you can e-mail privately at:

Thanks to everyone that has supported this project since the beginning. I hope that it has been, and will continue to be of value to the group. ~ Tracy


Hi All, I have just finished uploading the changes to Among the new items, you will find a couple of new pictures on Picture Page 8. There was a change in price of the Amsoil Air filter, on the Parts/Accessory Page. Also, you will find a new story on the Stories Page. As usual, the stories are dated on the menu level, so you can see right away if the story is new. Photographer has posted all of the Americade 2001 photos. If you have some good photos and would like to share them with visitors at, please send them "privately" to me at:  All the best and good riding, Bob Ramsey Orlando, Florida


August 10,11 & 12

Midwest Caders (Minnesota, Iowa, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, etc). And anybody farther away that are interested, here is a chance to get together and have some fun. I am tentatively planning as follows:
Friday, August 10: Meet in the Madison area, Possibly Quality Inn just off hwy I90, they have a lounge and restaurant I could book a block of rooms if interested. Rates: $63.00 single, $70.00 double.
For reservations call 608-222-5501.
Also I have room at my house, but you would have to use sleeping bags. For those who like to camp, Babcock Park is about 2 miles from the motel and has restaurants within walking distance. For reservations call 608-246-3896.

Saturday morning meet for breakfast at motel or at Nora's II (will decide when we have a better idea of who's attending). I will then also post driving directions at that time.

Ride up hwy 113, across Wisconsin River on the ferry and then onto the Baraboo Valley area, very nice curvy roads and lots of great scenery. Could go to Wisconsin Dells, only short distance from there. Upon returning from ride Saturday, we could cook out either at my place or local park (next to my house). Wolf says he'll bring brats and I'll supply burgers, etc. Anyone who wants to bring anything else to pass can drop it off at my house to put in frig. Or so on, if everybody would be interested in doing this.

Sunday morning we will breakfast at Nora's Bachelors II, large parking lot and very good food (at a low price). We could then do a Sunday ride, as there are some very scenic roads in the immediate area for those who
will want to leave early enough to head home. ~ Any other ideas are welcome, any other areas, etc. Let me know what you think.

I planned Friday for those who may want to attend from a farther distance away and I will take Friday off to meet and ride with if you like or to help with accommodations. Please inform me as to how many would be attending. Gotta figure how many brats and burgers. So far I am showing 9 Cades attending. Maybe we could make this an annual event contact me at jerrytennant@g... or call 608-764-5874

PS: Feel free to bring along any friends, whether they ride Cades or not.


Update... I found an insurance company which will insurance my Cavalcade with a declared value policy. My local independent insurance agent insured my Cavalcade through Integon Insurance with a declared value of $ 7,000.00 - which should allow me to replace my Cavalcade if (heaven forbid) something should happen. The good part of this new insurance was it was only $110.00 more per year. Anyone in PA -email me directly and I will email the agent's name and number. Safe Riding, ~ Dan 86 LX

Dan, you can do that in CT too with a letter from a registered dealer. In my case I went to john in Arkport NY. He said mine was worth 5100.00 + accessories. So I submitted a copy to my agent and he decided Integon was the place for me. However if you pull a trailer as we do that needs to go under accessories after my friend hit a deer with his and did 3000 worth of damage Iím not willing to take that kind of chance. ~ Chopper


ABATE has a web site. Here in Indiana, each county is listed on their calendar of events. If you wanted, you could go to an event every weekend. ~ Bob D.


Hi All, I just got back from 2 days in Espana. Went over for a basketball/vacation. Rented a Honda Shadow (650cc) and tooled around a bit. Narrow streets and wicked country twisties. I went to a little town called Tossa de mar and guess what I saw while walking around? A blue LX Cavalcade! Didn't see the driver, though. Took a picture and hope it comes out. Anybody with a Cade on the Costa Brava in Spain? ~ Mike Romano '86 LX



Bob, I am pretty new at this and it may sound like a dumb question, but what are floorboards used for and what is the advantage of having them? ~ Doug Fuller, 86 Blue LXE

Floorboards replace your foot pegs and give you a bigger area to park your dogs (feet). If you've never had them, you don't know what you're missing. If you have them, you won't know what you're missing till you have to take them off. Trust me. ~ KennG


Just reading the July 1986 Rider article (thanks Tracey!) and they reported an average 33MPG. ~ Brenden


I will put it on the center stand when I have some help (the durn thing has almost a 10 to 1 weight advantage on me). If I find nothing

Jim, Donít feel bad, I'm 6'2", 180 lbs. and could not get this beast on the center stand until the group suggested putting a 2 x 6 under the back tire. I put a 1 x 6 next to it for ease of rolling the bike up on it, then onto the 2 x6, you wont believe how easy it goes onto the center stand with it 1.5" higher in the air. This group has a lot of great ideas. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

I was shown how to put the Cade on the main stand by Tommy of the Norwegian SCC. Just rock the Cade on the main stand a couple of times, breathing just as a weight lifter does, then on the third rock take a deep breathe and breathe out as you pull the Cade onto the main stand. I am 5' 7" and weigh 140lbs. ~ Dave, UK

One thing that helps a lot is to get the suspension to air up as much as possible. Try to put as much down pressure on the seat as possible as it airs the shocks. This sits the Cade higher and makes it easier to roll back on stand. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.


After waiting 6 weeks I finally received the armrests I ordered. They are the GoldWing 1200 fold down type (I wanted swing outs, but these are what I ended up with). They clamp onto the passenger handrails and bolt to the saddlebag attachment at the top of the rear fender. Installed in about two hours with modifications. This entailed making two spacer bushings 1 1/2" long and using two 5/16 x 2 3/4" bolts to attach to the fender bracket. Also had to take some of the bend out of the bracket to allow it to mount properly. The arm pads had to be re-drilled and tap the threads to reposition them. They are the same height as the backrest-molded armrests. The wife tried them out and liked them very much. If you have any questions feel free to email me. We are leaving this Saturday for our week trip to Mackinac Island and maybe even visit a little of Canada. Take care ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.



I am very pleased with my "Trike". Now that I have said that, I must confess the first time I got on it, I
thought I made a big mistake. Prior to the conversion, I had never ridden a trike. As you are aware, a bike responds to the rider's thoughts and body movements. You do not have this on a trike. You steer the beast, no body language. You keep your feet up when you stop. It may sound silly, but I had a hard time with that. After thirty plus years on two wheels, I kept wanting to put my feet down when I stopped. ~ I am getting used to the difference in handling. Unlike the old 3-wheel ATV's, it is very stable. The Cavalcade, with its powerful engine and shaft drive, makes a great trike. ~ I did not do the conversion myself. It was converted by Dan Earl at JD's Motorcycle Stuff here in Indianapolis. He is an authorized "TriKing Industries" installer. TriKing has a web site: Error! Bookmark not defined.. One of the reasons I chose their conversion over some of the others is I think it is important that the drive shaft remain straight. Plus you do not have to add a steering kit to change the angle of the front forks as you do with some kits. They have several fender options. I went with the "Classic" fenders and had Dan install my Cade's taillights. All in all, I am pleased with the conversion. ~ Feel free to contact me with any questions you may have. ~ God bless, ~ Bob D, IN / Gideon 1400


We got back from our trip to Mackinac Island and the rest of the U.P. Put on a total of 1100 mi., I know this doesn't seem like a lot but when your traveling in rain suits for three days, it seems like 3,000. We had no problems with the Cade; it ran perfect, even in the rain. We met a couple in Escanaba, Mi. riding a Voyager and joined up with them for THREE DAYS OF RIDING IN THE RAIN! Fun couple and we had a good time. Also saw a Blue on Blue LXE in Marquette, Mi., waited a while to see if the owner would show up, didn't so I left a card and our motel #, didn't get a response. My conclusion after visiting the Mackinac Island area, it is cold (61 deg.). I don't like fish flies (they are everywhere). They have a big thing about fudge (also everywhere). The clouds must be attached to the island (they never leave). And most important, take rubber boots when you walk the Island or you will be leaving your shoes outside the motel room for the night (many horses). We did have a good time though, good roads and scenery. It is worth seeing, once anyway, but the ride was good. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.


Just thought I'd post this for anyone inexperienced in pulling a trailer. I just recently packed up my rig for a week in the WVA hills. And had actually taken it on a flat stretch of road at normal highway speeds 60-65, towed great, so I proceeded next day on the trip. Topped a hill just south of Fredrick, Md. passing a tractor trailer speed approx., 65, just as I passed the cab the trailer started a slight weaving motion, that suddenly advanced, tried to accelerate slightly to straighten it out. This only increased the wobble, by now through the whole rig. It was good to have some considerate drivers who saw what was about to take place and all slowed and gave me the road. I believe me it took two lanes to keep this thing on the blacktop. For fear of jackknifing the whole shebang, I just got with the rhythm and slightly got off the throttle. But going down hill now wasn't very responsive to this either. I didn't dare apply any brakes for fear of upsetting this rhythmic wobble this thing was in. I finally reached the bottom of the hill and got my speed back in a sane range. After my riding buddies caught up, I pulled it off the road, cleaned my pants and made an adjustment in the tongue weight. From this point on everything was OK. I kept my speed at 60 to 65 and didn't pass any more tractor rigs unless I had plenty of space between us. The story of the couple that was ejected off their motorcycle flashed through my mind. I'm sure that had I a passenger the outcome would have been a disaster. I truly feel someone was riding with me. If anyone hears from a driver about this dummy on a bike pulling a trailer, thank him for giving me the road. For anyone pulling a trailer, remember it can change real quickly. Make sure you have enough tongue weight, give yourself plenty passing space and keep the speed down. Experience is the best teacher if you live through it. Advice is given through experience. ~ Walter n Maryland

There's a good trailering article on the CD if you have it. Here are some highlights:
1) The tongue should be twice as long as the axle,
2) The tongue weight should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight plus a few pounds;
3) Swivel hitches are better than rigid (for a number of reasons one of which is you dropping the bike in a parking lot);
4) Streamlined is better than boxy (for obvious and not so obvious reasons);
5) The faster you go the more the tongue weight goes away as the wind tries to pick up the front end;
6) Wider is better (for obvious reasons)
If you don't have it I'll e-mail it to you. ~ Tracy

I wanted to clarify my message to the group concerning pulling a trailer. (Above) If you're new at it, there are some things to take into consideration, total weight, tongue weight relation speed and just about anything you can think of concerning that new piece of equipment you have behind you. I'm not suggesting never pull one JUST BE CAREFUL! It's just like riding a Motorcycle, once you loose your respect for it; it can become a dangerous way to travel. Educate yourself as to what to consider when taking this plunge I'm sure there are probably 100"s of trailer pullers that have never experienced this. And there are probably a few who experienced it and weren't able to pass the experience on. After I went through it and did realize that by adding some more tongue weight I could remedy the problem, the trip was an enjoyable one, and provided me with the added space for my camping gear. And it was an experience I truly will never forget. Just as with about everything we do in life there are limits and once we exceed those we have to be ready for whatever comes our way. I didn't mean to scare anyone away from owning/pulling a trailer. ~ Walter n Maryland


A while ago there was some discussion about the two horns on the Cavalcade. I can only find one on my 86 LX, and it sounds like it's going through puberty. Were the dual horns an LXE option? I'd like a horn that matches the size and quality of the machine. I'm considering mounting air horns, right above the cornering lights, or can anyone give me some hints on some decent replacement electric horns? Thanks! ~ Chuck Smith, Johnstown, PA 86 LX

I used air horns, mounted underneath the right saddlebag. Those of you who saw the pipes also saw the horns. ~ Brian 87LXE in CT

Chuck, Before replacing your horns try two things. Mine sounded horrid and weak until I did this. 1) Use a contact or brake cleaner and spray up inside the horn switch to clean the contacts. Protect the bike from overspray. 2) Holding the horn button down turn the tuning screw on the horn till you get the best sound and then lock it down and put a drop of nail polish on the threads to prevent it from moving. ~ Rick


Hi Chuck, My suggestion is to go with the air horns. I had mine mounted one on each side of the bike (on the engine case guards) with the compressor mounted on the left side (inboard of the horn). I used a relay & (disconnecting the stock horns) used the stock horn button. It did make people sit up & take notice. To answer your question about the number of horns on the LX, there are two. If you decide not to go with air horns & want to use stock horns, I still have my stock horns & bracket. You can e-mail me off list if you're interested. ~ Ralph W. Hansen

I bought new horns at an auto parts store. They were 12v horns and sound like Cadillac horns. ~ Gerry in NY


Is there a themo fuse behind the instrument panel that is somehow connected to the starter? The reason I ask, I have the following symptoms. 1. Turn the key to the start position, the dash lights come on, and the headlight comes on. 2. I press the start button. I hear a soft click that sounds like its coming from under the instrument panel. Then dash lights go out, and the headlight goes out. 3. I can then turn the switch to the off position, and back on to the on position, and nothing happens. 4. If I turn the switch to the off position for a rather long time, I can again get the instrument panel lights and the headlights to come back on, and follow steps 2 through 3 again. I'm assuming there is a thermo fuse under the dash somewhere? I appreciate any help in advance. Thanks ~ Tim Error! Bookmark not defined.

It sounds like the battery is Very low or dead, possibly a dead cell in the battery. There is no thermo switch that I know of what you're hearing is probably the starter solenoid pulling in and NOT enough JUICE in battery to engage the starter. The clicking you're hearing should be coming from the RIGHT turn signal area. ~ Walter

There is a circuit breaker beside the battery and there is a fuel pump relay by the right side mirror. The starter relay is behind the right side speaker. That's what you are probably hearing. I suggest that you have a bad connection at the battery or some other main power connection or your battery is toast. ~ Tracy

Here's a stupid thing that happened to my wife and I on our bikes, the positive lead to the battery was loose and it wasn't making positive contact at the starter. When I tightened it on both bikes, all was well. ~ Gerry in NY

The starter relay is behind the right turn signal lamp assembly. The circuit breaker is under the map cover to the rear of the battery and outside of the fairing. But the problem you describe sounds like a poor battery connection or a low battery charge. Check the connections and charge in the battery. Also check the battery for a bad cell. ~ Jim



I had an interesting experience on my '86 LXE, just the other day. It was a very hot day in Falls Church, Virginia, just outside of Washington, DC. I ride to work (unless there's snow, which is rare, here). It was approximately 92 degrees, humidity around 78%, around 3:00PM. (Sweaty, yucky) I had just finished the three-mile commute from my office to the garage of my apartment building. Upon backing into my parking spot, I put the bike in low gear and hit the engine-shut-off switch (I always use the kill switch, rather than relying on the ignition switch). The bike's engine no longer "fired"...but the engine continued to "turn-over" on battery power! I had to immediately pull the clutch lever in to keep from bolting off of the kickstand! I reached up and turned-off the ignition switch and the bike continued to turn over! I then re-engaged the engine cut-off and ignition switch...and the engine cranked immediately to idle! I have to admit I was a little scared at that moment. I put the bike in neutral...and just took a breath...for a moment...and tried to remain calm. I then repeated my steps. I put the bike in gear and held the clutch lever in. I then hit the engine cut-off switch and reached for the ignition switch. The bike again continued to crank over on battery power! It WOULD NOT SHUT DOWN! So...I turned everything back on...and again...went to idle. It didn't seem like an automobile's "dieseling". It seemed more like the starter-motor wouldn't disengage...but you couldn't hear a starter-motor running (and my hearing is VERY good). Eventually...I manhandled the bike "in-gear", popped the clutch as I shut everything off one-more-time and it finally quit. I have not had a recurrence of this scenario...but remain a little wary of it. What am I doing wrong, here? ~ Guy R. Charlton, Falls Church, VA


Hi All, I need a little help... I just had the clutch fluid changed about a year ago and I'm having problems. The lever has no resistance. It looks as though there is fluid in the reservoir, but it doesn't feel like there is. It seems ever so slightly to engage the clutch, but as the trip progresses, it gets less and less. I broke down in rush hour traffic today and had to ride on the shoulder till traffic cleared up with folks honking and gesturing at me... Just to get the bike home. ~ Dan

Dan, It sounds like you need to bleed the clutch. Getting the air out of the lines would be a good place to start. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

The best bet is to completely drain and refill the system with clean (from a sealed bottle) DOT 4 or better brake fluid. 1. It's a pain in the ass, 2. Donít get ANY brake fluid on the plastic or paint, 3. It can sometimes take forever to get it fully bled (pumping fluid in from the bottom helps a lot), 4. Itís a common failure when the fluid goes bye-bye. ~ Some guys have bought a little fluid pump that can be hooked to the bleeder valve. I don't have any idea where. Drain like you are bleeding, just let it all drain out and start pumping new fluid in. The amount in each system is probably unknown. Enough till it's full. ~ Tracy

Steve, I had to take my secondary drive unit off and found that just having the bottom end of the clutch line open, it gravity drained itself. I'm sure the same would go for the brakes too, just open the bleeders and put a container underneath to catch the fluid. Maybe taking the lids off the reservoirs would speed the process up. As for quantity, I bought an 8oz bottle of DOT4 and didnít use but part of it, so 1 bottle should do all 3 I would think. ~ Brian in IN Ď87 tt Gray LX

I suggest using DOT 4. It has a little better staying power than DOT 3. Also, don't miss them. If you do, they won't last as long. ~ Gerry

I have successfully used 2 different methods of bleeding air from the brakes & clutch. Neither of which is in the manual.

1. I use a vacuum pump made for that purpose that I purchased from JC Whitney. It works quite well but does waste some fluid due to air & fluid being mixed in the system. The cost of equipment is about $30.00.

2. I use a 20cc syringe that I picked up at the vet supply & a small flexible hose attached. I fill the syringe with brake fluid, slip the hose over the bleed valve, open the bleed valve & fill the system from bottom up. This also works well but you must exercise great care to keep the fluid inside the reservoir. The cost of equipment is about $1.00. I prefer this method. As always-USE EXTREME care when dealing with brake fluids. ~ Darryl

I had the same problem with my clutch. It seems as the fluid is expelled or used from the reservoir, the rubber bladder in the top sucks down dispelling the fluid up into the sight glass and giving a false reading. Removal of the top will prove this, as stated before be very careful with the fluid on the plastic parts, coverís. Also dot3 or dot4 fluid should not be referred to as synthetic as it isn't and could tend to confuse. However DOT 5 is synthetic and is not useable on the cavalcade as the seals for this are of different composition. If you discover that you're using a large amount of fluid in the clutch reservoir, i.e.: filling the reservoir quite often better check for a bad or leaking clutch slave cylinder. Before reinstallation of the reservoir top, make sure not to overfill. Fold the bladder back to its folded position flat. With folds bleeding can be complicated, as it's a little different than a brake situation. Once you pump it up, there is pressure also from the clutch springs. When you open the bleeder valve, it's quick to expel, and best with a vacuum rig hooked on the bleeder valve. ~ Walter n Maryland

I recently changed my front brake fluid. It doesn't seep down the lines from the reservoir. It took forever. The best way is to prime the lines by pumping brake fluid from the bottom up. It seems the reservoir cylinder doesn't pass a lot of fluid. It took me hours to change my front fluid the old fashion way. The rear brakes were easier as was the clutch. ~ The way I would do it is to get a turkey baser and place a plastic hose over the end, fill it up with fluid and attach it to the bleeder valve and squeeze after opening the bleeder. Close the bleeder and do it all over again. ~ Don Dorion

When the clutch cover is removed (to replace clutch springs), will I have to drain the oil? ~ Brian O.

Yep, it sure will. Or it will come out when you take the cover off. ~ Brian Sherman

I am loosing clutch fluid, but I canít see where itís leaking. I took off the side cover to see if it was the connection, but itís dry. The only fluid I saw was on the bottom front bolt of the cover. The clutch works fine. Where could the fluid be going? Slave cylinder maybe? Would that leak fluid inside the motor? ~ Tom

The clutch could be working okay but there could still be a little fluid coming from the piston seal. Is the level in the reservoir going down? Are you adding some regularly? Are you sure it's clutch fluid? Is it engine oil or gear lube (smell and feel it). It could be you just need a new piston seal in the slave cylinder. It's not too tough to do. ~ Tracy

Tracy, Itís defiantly a clutch fluid leak, not sure how long it takes, but I do have to fill the reservoir maybe every couple weeks. Whatís involved in putting a seal in the slave cylinder? ~ Tom

It's no different than taking a brake cylinder apart. Just unbolt it and push the piston out by pulling on the lever CAREFULLY because brake fluid (as you probably already know) is nasty for everything. There's nothing more than a piston, spring and seal in there. The seal even looks to be an o-ring instead of a square seal. Just make sure you replace it with one that's not only the right size but also compatible with brake fluid (like an original OEM Suzuki part). ~ Tracy

Tracy I think we are talking about 2 different things. From I can understand, your talking about the seal in the master cylinder, (clutch lever), thatís not where my problem is. I think my problem is some where else. I have no leakage around the clutch lever.

I just rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder when I replaced those pesky oil seals in the bevel drive. Unless I'm mistaken you have to remove the bevel drive to get the cylinder off (it's bolted from the inside). I would do the seals too as you have it all apart anyway. There is a post telling just what is involved. I'm not sure of the number. A search should find it unless somebody knows. ~ Jim

No. I'm talking about the slave cylinder down by your left foot. Jimís reply answering your question is correct (see above). It is, in fact, bolted to the final drive and you must remove the final drive to get to the cylinder because the bolt heads are in behind as Jim states. When I was speaking of pulling the clutch lever to remove the piston, I was referring to using the hydraulic pressure generated by the clutch lever to force the slave piston out. However, since you must take the final drive off to get to it, you have to unhook the hydraulic line to do that. Oh well, hopefully a little compressed air will get it out. Tracy

The clutch fluid that leaks from the lower slave unit will leak out on the ground. It will not leak into the motor. My leak took a while until it leaked out on the ground (garage floor). I nursed it for about a year carrying a bottle of brake fluid with me and adding it when the clutch lever would start to get soft (run out of brake fluid). The hardest part of the repair for me was bleeding the clutch line after the repair. I had to fill it from the bottom up in order to get all of the air purged from the clutch line. ~ David Williams, Evansville, Indiana


Hello, I am a new member. I purchased my Cavalcade GT new in February 1986. It has been, and still is a great bike. Last month I converted it into a trike. The handling is very different. But, I am slowly getting used to it. I am new to the Indianapolis area. I recently moved from Pennsylvania. Yesterday I went to my local Suzuki dealer to pick up a new oil filter and four quarts of Golden Spectro #4. I was given a smaller filter compared to the present one. The part number is 16510-34E00. When I questioned the parts man he claims this is a replacement as the 16510-05A00 is no longer available. Now that I brought it home my instincts are telling me not to use it. Do you know if this filter will fit? Will it perform as well as the previous one? It is approximately 1/2" smaller in length and diameter. The web site is Great. I am glad to have found it. Are there many members here in Indianapolis? I have only seen one Cade since my arrival. God bless, ~ Gideon

The Ď87's take a PH6018 Fram filter. I've been told any auto parts store that carries Fram filters can order them in for you even if they don't keep them in stock. I think once they find out how many bikes these two filters fit, they might keep a couple in stock like the Advance Auto Parts Store does here in Geneva NY. Guy hates/loves to see me come in because I buy all both of the ones he has in stock and then remind him it's time to order more. ~ KennG

87's also take an SM018 STP filter. It is $6 at the local AutoZone. ~ Allen

Wix filter corp. builds excellent oil filters number for 1400 is a 51348 if you want a Napa filter use gold series no 1348. ~ Jim Rogers

Are WIX 51348 and NAPA Gold 1348 for the 87 or 86?

53148 Wix or 3148 Napa fit, 1985&1986 ~ wix51359 or Napa 1359 fit 1987 & up. The cost to me for 3148 is 2.20 cost for 1359 is a little more 3.29. I think the local dealer will sell to the club members @ this price, plus shipping but it would have to be checked out. They also have the fuel filter, but do not make the air filter. I also know of a filter manufacturer in California who might re build the air filter but at this time I have not checked on this. ~ If any one wants to use these filters, be sure to ask for Napa gold which is top of the line made by Wix Corp, f any one want's to order filters I will supply a contact person and address ~ Jim Rogers, Email:


Sometime ago there was a message saying that you could send your air filter off to K&M and they would build another. Does anyone have a phone # or address for K&M? I looked at the web page for a link or some info but couldnít fine any. Also, how much do they charge for this? Or any other suggestions would be appreciated, ~ Roy in TX

K&N link: Error! Bookmark not defined. Contact info can be found on my Cav page: Error! Bookmark not defined. ~ Don Box

Roy, I tried to get hold of K&M last year and had no luck. So I decided to try Amsoil, and they got back to me right away. And I liked the idea of a reusable filter, not having to spend 30 some dollars every time my air filter got dirty. (I guess I'm just used to buying filters for my car and truck for under $10) But you have to send them your old filter for them to make the foam filter. Cost is around $40 with shipping and bottle of oil for future use. And that is what I had when I got my 42mpg too, But I also only got mid thirties the other 10 tanks of gas I ran through before that one. I still say it was the long open highway that did it. Amsoil's web site is Error! Bookmark not defined. or email them at Error! Bookmark not defined.. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

I went to the K&N site before I sent my original message.... Apparently they are NOW doing custom filters. They've the link on their site. I don't have stock with them or any other connections. I just think very much of their filters. ~ Don

I thought we removed them from our recommendation list because they stopped servicing our filters. My understanding is that we can only get after market filters from Amsoil. ~ Roy Hawkins

I tried to contact K&N and never got a response, I contacted Amsoil on the same day and got a response right away and they seemed more than happy to help me out. ~ Roy in TX


Roy, What was Amsoil response? I thought they only carried oil products. Do they refurbish the old air filter, or supply a completely new unit? What is the turnaround time? Cost? ~ Bob D. IN, Gideon 1400

Bob, Their response was great they seemed eager to help. What they do is you send them you old air filter, they need it for the frame (top and bottom) they then build you one of their reusable filters send it back to you with a bottle of filter oil for a cost of 41.46. I think thatís a great price considering that you should never need to buy another one. They also have oil filters but I didnít check into those yet. The address you send your filter to is 2701 Short Rd. Newark, NY. 14513 I donít know about the turnaround time but it sounded like they try to get it back ASAP. They are looking for any old Cade filters so that they can have some already made up for immediate turn around. ~ Roy in TX

Thought I would forward this to the group if anyone were interested in a new air filter. ~ Roy in TX

Hi, Roy. Amsoil has an excellent long life filter that gives you better airflow and much cleaner air. When it gets dirty, you clean it, and re-oil it and set it back into the bike. The frame is necessary from an old paper filter from a Cavalcade. That is why we offer to tear down the old filter and send you a filter, the top and bottom from your old filter and a bottle of foam filter oil. The price is $41.46 US dollars. ~ All we ask is to send a check for the $41.46 along with your old filter. We are in the process of trying to find a few old Cavalcade filters so we can turn them around quicker. If you know of any let me know. ~ Please check out our web site at Error! Bookmark not defined.. We have information on all of Amsoil products. We can assist you with synthetic lubricants for all your vehicles from cars, to snowmobiles, to ATV's, boat, you name it. Our mailing address is 2701 Short Road, Newark, NY 14513. Do you live in the US? Please send us your address also. Hope to hear from you soon. ~ Marty Gilmore



I was on a long trip the last few weeks and around 2400 miles I checked the oil in the morning as usual. It was at the top line. After about 200 miles at a rest area for some reason I decided to check oil again. None in site glass. I added half a quart to fill and drove about another 200 miles and had to add another 1/2 quart. The next day, after a short distance, it took very little to fill. Then I went 425 miles home and the oil was still full. Has anyone else had this happen? The total trip was 3000 miles. ~ Tom

Sounds as though you might have a failing engine to intermediate gearbox seal. It's very typical of this problem. Go to web site and read the entry on this problem and ways to trouble shoot it. One quick way is to see if the intermediate gearbox oil level is overfilled. I've had this problem on my bike and riding speeds, and distances determined HOW much oil transferred into the gear box, I babied it for two years almost and documented my findings, if you need further assistance feel free to E-mail me personally.
~ Walter n Maryland

I had this happen to me when I went on a 4000-mile tour of Europe on our GSX1100F in 1990. The main reason was the heat. I have been told that this happens to all vehicles in hot climates. ~ Dave UK

You could have a small leak somewhere, maybe the oil drain plug. I just encountered that. I added 1/2 quart and then decided to change the oil (2k miles). I discovered the gasket on the drain plug to be flat (brass). I bought paper gasket material and made two homemade jobbies and no more leak. Time will tell. I'll keep you posted. ~ Gerry in NY

I had this happen to me with a Honda CB550 in the late 70's. It seems that regular motor oil will evaporate in higher climates. I used motorcycle oil for hot climates and the problem went away.

~ Don Dorion 86LX & 1400 Intruder


Valkyrie site on oil: Error! Bookmark not defined.

This is pretty much what I learned from a chemist at Pennzoil. I've been using Castrol GTX/Pennzoil (and Havoline even) in all my motorcycles for 20 years never had a problem (oh, other than when the crankcase screen on my Triumph T100SR clogged, but that wasn't the oils fault ~ Brenden


Just got the bike running (I bought it in need of repairs). Now I think that I may hear a noise in 5th gear. Is this common or maybe I'm just trying to find something else to fix:) .I used a Purolator PL10241 oil filter. The box says that AC PF53, Fram PH3614, Motorcraft FL-795, Wix 51348, and Chrysler 4105409 crossover. These are for the 86

Please.... Are the bikes quiet when going down the highway in 5th gear? I sometimes think that I hear a gear noise. Is that normal? Perhaps it's the Mobile One oil? I hate not having the bike to ride, but don't want to cause damage either. ~ James Roberts

James, I have noticed what I would call a gear whine. For lack of a better term... in 5th gear at certain rpm's. I have just accepted this to be normal, unless maybe the high dollar synthetic oil would stop it. I have changed all my oil in engine and both drive units and still notice it at that certain rpm. So I'm not worried about it. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

I wouldn't say they're noisy, but you can hear some mechanical sounds. I wear a 3/4 helmet. I tried a shorty and didn't like the noise it collected. Just how much noise and what type are you hearing? Can you determine what area it's coming from, wheels, bearings, gearboxes, front, rear, or middle? Steady, intermittent, slow, fast, grinding, clunking, grinding, whining, under power, accelerating, coasting, braking, does it seem to be getting worse? Full of questions aren't I? But ya gotta know, to try and figure out what they are. Every now and them Iíll place mine on the center stand. And with the gearbox in neutral Iíll spin the rear wheel. By doing this Iím checking for any bearing or gear noises in the final drive, drive shaft, and the intermediate gearbox. Place it in gear motor off and you can get a general idea how much play is again in those three areas. Leave it on the center stand, start it up, go through the gears, not
trying to quickly start or stop any of the moving parts, just gently! You can apply the rear brake, gently just as you were easing around town. Down shift, up shift, see if you can distinguish any sounds, if you get used to doing this every now and then you might be able to ward off, a problem, rather than having one on the trip! Just my practices, and my 2cents, these bikes ride and travel soooo good we tend to forget theyíre 12 to 15 years old. ~ Walter n Maryland

I may just be looking for a problem. The noise is a whine and only in 5th gear. Sometimes I don't hear it at all. I think the reason I was so concerned is that I only rode the bike a few miles before I replaced the oil seals in the bevel drive. Also replaced the stator and r/r. I didn't take the drive apart I'm sure I was just listening real close for a problem. ~ I will put it on the center stand when I have some help (the durn thing has almost a 10 to 1 weight advantage on me). If I find nothing then I may try Spike's fix. Shoot.... I can't do that, as I need to replace the switches in the radio. So far I've been real glad that I picked up on metric tools when Sears had a big sale. ~ Jim

You will here a gear whine when the bike is making a left turn at speed. It appears to come from the rear. ~ Bob Jones '86 LX

Bob, Not be an alarmist, but if you are hearing a whine when the bike is making a left turn at speed (regardless of gear position), and you say it's coming from the rear, then it could very well be the final drive gears.  Have you checked/changed the fluid in the rear drive housing? Does it do it even when you are in 4th gear? Is the rear wheel bolt tight per specs? If it's a little loose, when you pitch it over the wheel could be cocking a little and putting unwanted stress on the drive gears. ~ Tracy

James Roberts, If it is NOT a metallic-sounding noise, are you sure it's not a tire whine at those higher speeds? ~ Fred L. Meisenheimer


I am a new owner of an 86 Cade and have noticed that the 5th gear is significantly nosier than 1 to 4. I put the bike up on the centre stand and went through the gears spinning the rear wheel. Application of rear brake slightly increases the noise very little. I also sped up the rear wheel in 5th to 3000 engine rpm and cut the engine to let the wheel coast down. I kinda think the noise is from the 5th gear in the transmission and not the bevels. (It sounds like a straight cut gear sound) I will take the advice of the listers and change all the oils shortly and see how things go after that. ~ John Potter, Ď86 Cade 55000km, Ontario Canada


Walter and the group, I too come from an aircraft family, only I'm one removed, my father was the
aircraft mechanic. Listening is a big thing with me too. I just returned from a 3,000-mile trip through the Rockies. Took the bike: up, down, hot and cold. All went well. ~ I hear a different sound though. It is coming form the motor. The over all sound is more Tappet, tinkly sounding. And just more noise like things are getting loose. Power is good, every thing feel strong and firm. The bike just registered
39,000. What would be your best guess? Is there a 40,000-mile maintenance I should perform? ~ Michael

Michael: in checking my owners manual and service manual there are no adjustments that are recommended at any interval that would have to do with valve or engine tightening operations. This will spur a lot of controversy on oils again. But I changed mine to 20w50 Pennzoil right after I purchased it. It seemed to quite things down considerably. I don't know what type or grade you're using, but that's my suggestion. I stayed with standard 20w50, as it is readily available on the road. Even some 7-11 stores sell it, and I don't have to carry a spare quart with me. This engine seems to be a pretty maintenance-free unit as long as you keep oil in it and don't let it run hot. I donít know if you got in on the Marvel Mystery Oil discussion or not but I try faithfully to add it about every 1500 to 2000 miles. I add 4oz to 1 tank of gas. I said gas! Due to the clutch being lubed with the engine oil, I don't add any additives to the engine oil period. Might be my old age but I swear I can tell the difference, and by adding it to the gas youíre keeping the upper cylinders, valve seats etc lubed as well as the carb barrels and float tanks. Then again as my hearing goes my Cade gets quieter and the radio gets louder. ~ Michael. Thank god for the LCD display 3 to 4 seconds after starting it resets it's self and lets me know my bike is running. (Well, almost.) ~ Walter n Maryland

Walter, "4 oz. of oil in the gas?" I am using one of the better oils made for motorcycles. I did read the oil comparison report at the web site and I think your choice of oil is fine. But in the gas tank? I think my bike runs cool enough as, my fan is always on, so it seems. What do you think of Mobil one oil? I will change my oil, soon if you think this is OK I will switch and add the 4 oz. to the gas tank. I really want the engine quitter. This new oil may be the difference I need. ~ Michael

Michael: that was 4oz of marvel mystery oil to the gas. That is the brand name, make sure it is the oil and gas additive, not the gas only additive, there has been a great discussion on this it's also in the archives. Just type in marvel mystery oil and hit search. And as I said before I do not add type of additive to the crankcase or engine/ transmission, due to the clutch being lubed with the same oil. What weight engine oil are you using? Try this see if it works for you. ~ Walter n Maryland


Has anyone ever had this problem? I had my carbs rebuilt and boots replaced only a few months ago and ran like a dream until now.... It seems when I take off from a stop there are a couple pops or bumps that seem to come from the top of the carbs.... The reason I say this is because I can hear and feel it just under my radio compartment... What could cause this problem? And what do I need to do to fix it? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks ~ Nick


Nick, When you hear popping through the air cleaner, it would usually be a situation where a cylinder is firing with an open intake valve. If the bike got wet a cross-firing plug wire can cause it. If a spark plug is bad, it may also cause crossfire to an adjacent plug wire. I would check the plugs first, even if new, sometimes they short out. Look for any signs of wear on the plug wires where they could be shorting out. Another thing would be a sticky intake valve, try some Marvel Mystery oil/gas treatment in gas tank. There are other causes, but these are the basic to check first. ~ Jerry, Ď86LX Wisc.

Nick, Sounds like a lean off idle condition. It could be the idle mixture is a little lean and when you make the transition from the pilot jet to the main jet and it is leaning out enough to pop through the carbs. It probably won't take more than a 1/2-turn tweak (out of course) on the screws. ~ It could also be the diaphragms in one or more carbs. Take off the air box and start it. When you crack the throttle all of the slides should move up the same amount and smoothly. It may not run worth a crap with the air box lid off, but you will be able to see if the slides are all moving. ~ Might also be a dirty fuel filter or a low pressure or flow condition with the fuel pump. It could also be that the petcock is not fully open. Just a few things to try. ~ Tracy

I 'd like to thank my fellow Cade riders for their great Tech help with my backfiring through the it turned out it was the plugs...after a few stops at local auto parts stores I was able to buy some Champion 810 Series plugs and WOW! What a difference $5.48 made. She's running better than she did when I got her out of the shop! Now it's time to ride! Thanks Again! ~ Nick


I have a question about spark plugs costing me around $20 each! Whatís your experience? Looking at the receipt I called the service dept. and asked about the price. They tell me that of course its expensive but Suzuki recommends this plug at change so they wouldnít go against it. Whatís your opinion? I haven't the designation but think sure you know! As I understand this plug is the original to this bike and I'm wondering is it Ok to change to others? In that case, which? ~ Micke

I just got my bike back from the shop after having new tires install and all fluids changed and a good going over. I was curious why they didn't change the plugs while they had it and the mechanic told me that to change the plugs they had to pull the radiator. Is this is true? Iíd like to change the plugs, as they are at least 5 years old. ~ Mike 86LX

The plugs are a bear but can be done without pulling the radiator. Backs are fairly straightforward. Side covers off, then figure out how to get the socket on them and have at it. The fronts are a little more fun. I use a right angle ratchet that has a "T" handle to speed things up after you break the plug loose. Thank you Wal-Mart (again). I also changed mine through the side vents. Two screws vs. take off the lowers, front side panels, etc. etc. Whatever works short of dismantling most of the bike and pulling the radiator. Get a couple cold ones and sit and peruse the situation for a bit. If you go for it, let us know how you make out.

~ KennG

Mike, I think you were fed a line. I have changed my plugs with removing only the side covers. Maybe not the easiest spots to reach but I have seen lots worse. ~ Dennis

You don't have to pull the radiator to change the plugs. I've changed my plugs twice, never touching the radiator. You have to pull off a lot of other stuff to get to them. It's not a fun job and while you have the tank cover off you might as well check your air cleaner and spray some carb cleaner in there while youíre at it. ~ Randy '86 LXE

I was told not to use champion sparkplugs in my bike. The bike store sold me some $11.50 plugs and told me this would fix the problem. So far the problem seems to be in the carbs. I'm starting to not like this bike, spending too much money trying to get it running right.

You don't have to pull the radiator. You can either take off the lower part of the side fairing, or I have changed them through the side of the fairing with the side vent removed. Not much room, but I did it successfully. ~ Denny

Be careful with Champion plugs, they may not take the heat or last as long as NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs; these plugs are 2.+ and hold up for a season. ~ Gerry in NY


I got sort of the same treatment at a dealerís service department. I went in to have the clutch fluid changed/flushed and a new front tire installed. I got to the shop before it opened. I even waited in the parking lot for one hour+. Told the owner that I wanted to have the clutch fluid replaced and the tire installed. He asked me if I got the tire from his shop. Well being a former Boy Scout I couldn't lie to him. I told him, 'no I didn't.' His response was, 'They don't mount tires where you bought it?' I told him I got it from a friend who was selling it. His reply was, 'Well I got a mechanic with a bad back and I just don't know if we can get to it today.' I said just do the clutch then. Now that is lazy. He had my bike ready in 45min AFTER I dropped it off. They made out like they were swamped when I came in to get the bike. Swamped huh? Swamped with guys just buying air/oil filters and accessories. Sorry this is so long winded. I just want a fair deal, is that too much to ask? ~ Tracy

With the talk of treatment from Suzuki and in the past I have developed two rules of thumb. First if I stop at an unfamiliar dealership I tell them I have a Cavalcade...not Suzuki Cavalcade. If they look questioningly at me or asks who the manufacturer is (yes it happens) I turn and walk out. Second, I look for small, local private shops. These are usually busier than can be but friendly and more than willing to do what they can to get a traveler back on his way. The small shop if not aquatinted with the Cavalcade usually will take input much better and work with you if you have an idea what the problem is rather than the "you don't know what you are talking about" attitude of the 40 hour a week guy in the dealership. Remember the dealerships main purpose is to sell new bikes and service what they sell. I know there are exceptions to this and cherish one when I find one. Latest on my list...Power Cycle in Windsor, Ontario, also a Suzuki dealer. That's another story. ~ Dennis

Sounds like a change to another shop to me. My shop changed my tire valves, front and back and even dismounted a tire from a rim I sold on eBay. While I waited I bought a bike for my wife. ~ Don Dorion,
86 XL, 1400 Intruder


I found out that the noise coming from the front end has some thing to do with the speedometer today. It quit and of course the cruise etc. I had lubricated the cable, but maybe too little too late. I thought that I had kept some of the messages about this problem, but I didn't. Is this some thing that can be repaired in the garage, or does a dealer have to be involved? ~ Any replies appreciated. ~ Ken, í87 LXE in Wisconsin

Hi Kenneth, I had the same problem with my bike a few years back and found that it was the speedo gear drive from the front axle was broken, The only way to fix it is by replacing the whole unit and only from the dealer or a junked bike. You may also find one similar from another model Suzuki that will work by the number of teeth on the gear will not be the same so your speedo will be out a little, but the price may be better. ~

If you speedo cables are broken, check around for a local speedometer repair shop or some big truck repair shops. They can make up the inner cable by copying the old one (as long as they can come up with the lower connector); if you have all pieces and know the overall length. The cable does pull out the bottom once disconnected from the drive gear. Make sure you use white lithium grease as you load the cable into the housing. I pulled mine out today and found it dry about 2 inches from the top end. Caught it in time before any damage was done. If part of the cable stays in the housing, then the whole cable assembly must be removed. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.

I am going to quit reading emails about problems. A friend of mine and I rode through Virginia and some of W VA last weekend and I lost my speedometer, heard a squeaking sound, it was the drive. I picked one up at a salvage yard and everything is ok. I tried taking it apart to grease it but couldn't figure out how to do it. The pre-owned one cost me $20 and works so far ~ Greg

I donít see why not. Drain all the old fluid out, then attach a clear plastic hose to one of the calipers and elevate the end of that hose to some point higher than the master cylinder reservoir. A good way to do that would be to tape the end to the top of the windshield. Then get a length of hose and siphon it full of brake fluid. About 30 feet of hose filled with fluid should be plenty. Attach one end of the hose to the brake bleeder valve, open it a crack, and then raise the other end of the hose to the height of the master cylinder reservoir. The fluid will run into the brake lines backwards and fill the reservoir. But be careful as all get out and think carefully about what you are doing. Work slowly and think about every step. Fluid seeks its own level. Remember that the level of fluid you see in the plastic hose will be the level of the fluid you cant see in the brake lines. Woe is you if you overfill the reservoir and spill brake fluid on the fairing. Learned this the hard way. Just use plenty of hose, it is cheap: 8 cents a foot. You donít even need a fluid pump, and the hose can be reused. I did my clutch this way last time, drained it in backwards from a 30 foot piece of clear plastic hose. ~ Spike

Did anyone try to order a speedometer cable from Suzuki? I ordered one last year, it took maybe a week to get, and cost maybe $15 dollars. To put new cable on, I removed handlebars and all plastic, vents etc., loosen dash, tilted it enough to get my big hand under it and screwed the new cable on magic every thing works again. ~ Jim Kelly

I didn't go in that way. I took the windshield off, headlight cover, top of the dash, and unscrewed the instrument panel. It wasn't so bad. I've done it before. ~ Gerry in NY

What would be a good speedometer cable lube? I know this sounds like dumb question but WD-40 is the only thing I could think of that would travel all the way down the cable and I thought there might be something else better. ~ Thanks, Roy

Ack, WD-40 is probably not what you want. If you remove the cable at the wheel, the cable itself can be removed from the sheath. I use hi-temp wheel bearing grease, and just slime it up while sliding it back in the housing. ~ Brenden


I've always used a graphite lube, like for key locks. Probably a light oil would be OK also. ~ Denny

I guess if I would have thought about it a little more, that makes more sense I used to do that when I had a 50 Ford truck (memory is starting to go). Now my question is since I already have the dash apart can I not pull it up? I tried but it doesnít seem to want to come out. ~ Roy

The cable has to be removed from the bottom, when you pull it you'll see why. ~ Brenden

I have used 3-in-1 for motors (blue can) or hydraulic oil. These oils are very fine and lubricate well. ~ Don Dorion, 86 LX, 1400 Intruder

Go to the nearest hardware store and get a small tube of Lubri-plate, some call it White Lube. It will do nicely. ~ Jim Rogers


Gotta buddy who left Colorado for a two week trip on his 86 LX Cade - right now they are in Oklahoma City and his speedometer, cruise and turn signals quit working. He's called a few motorcycle shops in the area but no luck. ~ Salli

Yikes, I'd say the cruise isn't working due to the speedometer not working. When mine didn't work I still had turn signals though. In my case it was the drive gear, there's a retaining ring that holds it together, it popped off. I was able to get it working by simply putting it back together. I'd start by checking the drive gear and seeing if it can be fixed up good enough (if that's the problem). If the speedo drive cable is broken, a shop could probably find one that fit. If you remove the connection at the wheel you can remove the cable from it's housing and inspect it pretty easy. ~ Brenden

Had a similar problem a few weeks ago. Check fuse for signal. My fuse blew several times but only when the turn signal was activated. The problem was the wire holding bracket under the seat. The bracket is rubber coated. The coating had worn through and created a short against the frame member thus blowing the fuse. Every time I used the turn signal or brake, the fuse blew. The signals, speedo and tach as well as all dash lights ceased to function. Look under the seat. Hope this helps. ~ Ed in Napa

Salli, have him check his fuses mine went out and so did all the same things as you friend hope this helps. ~ Gerald 86LXE


Does anyone know what the cable that runs down the right side of the gas tank is for? Mine is off and I don't know what it goes to. ~ Jerry Owen

Jerry, The only "cable" that is remotely close to the right side of the fuel tank is the one that operates the passenger footboards. I assume you are speaking of a cable in the sense that it is a push-pull cable inside housing (IE: clutch and throttle cable). It should be running at the right rear of the fuel tank. That's the only one shown in the routing diagrams. ~ Tracy


I'm curious how you would pump fluid in from the bottom. Would pumping from the bottom work with brakes? It's time for me to change the clutch and brake fluids. Is there a way to drain the system or do you just do it like you're bleeding the lines. Does anyone know how much fluid each of the systems takes? I couldn't find quantities in the service manual. Thanks. Steve & Ms Vic86LX

Steve, I had to take my secondary drive unit off and found that just having the bottom end of the clutch line open, it gravity drained itself. I'm sure the same would go for the brakes too, just open the bleeders and put a container underneath to catch the fluid. Maybe taking the lids off the reservoirs would speed the process up. As for quantity, I bought an 8oz bottle of DOT4 and didnít use but part of it, so 1 bottle should do all 3 I would think. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

On the problem of bleeding brakes and clutch -- I did mine last winter with a vacuum pump you just hook it up to the bleeder valve - open the valve and pump -- fluid is sucked out along with any air in the system. Works fine, just have to keep fluid in the reservoir. You can see the change in color as the new fluid gets sucked out (after all the old is out). Changed to a synthetic dot 3 or 4 fluid and appears to be working fine in both brakes and clutch. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC DOT 5. It will not mix with any existing fluids. Pumps are available for as little as $10 I went whole hog and bought a good one for $26 from Auto Zone. They will also pump fluid in, but I was afraid of overflow at the top. ~ To make sure no fluid leaks or falls on the plastic I used an old blanket and a spring clamp to attach it to the handlebars -- kind of bulky but great for the coverage. ~ Allen

Seems several members have asked about quantity of fluid needed for the clutch. Since I planned to do both front brake lines and the clutch I bought a quart. Used about 12-14 ounces on the brakes -- had a problem with getting all the air out of 1 side. As best I can remember used about 6 ounces for the clutch. Still have 10-12 ounces left. Hope this helps. Synthetic brake fluid was about $6.50 a quart. ~ Al from Mass

I have successfully used 2 different methods of bleeding air from the brakes & clutch. Neither of which is in the manual.

1. I use a vacuum pump made for that purpose that I purchased from JC Whitney. It works quite well but does waste some fluid due to air & fluid being mixed in the system. The cost of equipment is about $30.00.

2. I use a 20cc syringe that I picked up at the vet supply & a small flexible hose attached. I fill the syringe with brake fluid, slip the hose over the bleed valve, open the bleed valve & fill the system from bottom up. This also works well but you must exercise great care to keep the fluid inside the reservoir. The cost of equipment is about $1.00. I prefer this method. ~ As always-USE EXTREME care when dealing with brake fluids. ~ Darryl


Where do folks tend to run their idle as indicated on gauge? I'm running mine around 800-900 or so, I've noticed that sometimes I've gotta give it a bit of gas to start. Once it's running it runs fine. Just wondering where people tend to run the idle. I haven't hooked up a 'good' meter to check the gauge... As a side note, best mileage I've gotten so far is only 31! Probably time to check the plugs and see if I'm running rich, perhaps check compression.... Ack! ~ Brenden Walker

Brenden, I've run mine at 1100 since new. ~ Al from Mass

Probably explains why she's sometimes a pain to start when warm. If I open the throttle a bit, it starts fine. I think I'll up it a bit. ~ Brenden

True, an idle that's too low can be bad on the entire valve train. ~ Brenden

I run the idle at around 1100 to 1200 RPM. I have read that it is easier on the cams. ~ Robert

Well hello everyone, I've been away for awhile (approx. 1yr) things have changed since I've been gone. But of course still a great site! Anyway, here's a couple of questions - I have two Cades and on both of them I have the same metal on metal rattle at mid RPM's. I've finally located the rattle to the swing arm support rod that connects the rear caliper to the swing arm. Where the support mounts to the swing arm is the culprit. There's enough play in the fit to make it rattle but doesn't appear to be much room to shim/isolate the metals - anyone have a fix for this rattle - I have to believe it's common. Second - I've had the carbs of my LXE for a cleaning and can't seem to get the bike to idle below 1100-1200RPM without making it too lean - bike begins to pop below the 1100-1200 RPM range. I've adjusted the pilot screws but anything over 2 turns out keeps the idle to high. Any suggestions on how to bring down the RPM's? On my LX the pilots are set at 2.5 - 3 turns out and turning down the idle speed screw will get the bike to idle as low as I want with no problem. Thanks, ~ Dave --- Nice to be back... 86 LX and 86 LXE


Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak. That would make it run lean and idle high. There may be cracks in the rubber boots. Spray some carb cleaner around the carbs and see if the rpm increase's. If it does, youíre sucking wind. But donít spray directly into the carbs. ~ Tom

Dave, Run a bead of silicone where the metals are rattling. The first time you ride it, it will break away from one surface or the other, but all you want is for it to stop the rattle. It may do that. ~ It sounds like you have an air leak in or around the carbs somewhere. If you can't get it to idle down, backing out the mixture screws just speeds it up but won't let the idle come down no matter what you do with the idle speed adjustment, you're running too lean. Have you tried going to 3 or 3.5 turns? Are you sure that the float levels are good? Are the boot clamps tight? Are the boot o-rings good? Do you have a split in the boots anywhere? Just a few things to check. ~ Tracy

Also, make sure you have slack in your throttle cable, may be that your adjusting the idle-speed isn't really doing anything at all. ~ Brenden

Remember when removing the Carbs, there is a CLAMP orientation that must be followed in the manual to keep the linkages from binding up on the clamp screws, it is the clamps that secure the CARBS to the intake boots. If not followed it will allow the engine to over-idle because linkage does not return to the idle screw setting. ~ Walter



I noticed a couple of times that when I hit the auto level it seemed to pump up the rear pretty high and then the compressor wouldn't stop (the light was still on). If I put the bike in gear the light and compressor were still on. ~ If I shut off the bike, waited a bit and then hit the auto-level I could feel it relieving the pressure and leveling out just fine... ~ Is this perhaps a sticky relay contact? And which relay? I did recently add a switch to the operate the compressor relay, but this was not a problem until several days after I installed the switch so I don't think that has anything to do with it. ~ Brenden

You probably need to clean the sensor. It's down by the swingarm. It's a common problem. ~ Tracy

The thing that strikes me as rather odd is that when I put the bike in gear it doesn't shut off. The LCD shows it in gear, so I know that sensor is good. I presume you're talking about the level sensor thing on the swingarm? Thanks. ~ Brenden


I don't know if mine works right or not. But when I hit it, it goes up until the light goes out and then it drops quite a bit. Sometimes, it can drop so low that I can pump it up again immediately. Is this normal? ~ HeyJerr

That doesn't sound normal. I've found that (well when I'm not having the problem described) it pumps up a bit too high, then lets out until level. I've never been able to get it to go off once it's completed a proper leveling (except of course if the load changes.) ~ Brenden

Use a tee in the line and put a small (!") 0-60 pressure gauge in the tee. You can now see the pressure in the shock and not lose pressure checking it.


Last week my compressor went out and started blowing fuses. Relays etc worked as expected. This weekend I got to take massive amounts of plastic off instead of riding :-( Turned out the compressor piston seized. Used some penetrating oil to unfreeze it, took some motor oil and some paper to "re-hone" the cylinder, some alcohol to clean the reed valve and the hose fittings (none on the o-rings) and put it back together and started compressing again. No more saggy Cade! ~ Greg


It's been a while since I've posted anything, but I still keep an eye on what's happening, and now need some help. My lovely wife bought me a replacement windshield for my B'day. I took the plugs off the trim cover to change it out and the two screws are so deteriorated that I can't tell what I need to try and get them out. Could someone please tell me what type of screw they are supposed to resemble so I can work on getting them out? I can't get a socket around the heads because of the little spring clips that hold the plastic caps on, so I imagine its an Allen wrench or Torx Head...but I just can't tell. Thanks for the help. ~ Pete in Olean '87 LXE

Pete, Them screws should be a Phillips head. At least thatís what mine are. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN
87 tt Gray LX

Pete, If you can't get them any other way, drill down the center of the screws with a 1/8" bit. If you have an "easy out" to remove it, all the better. Otherwise the tapered end of a file will do, tap it into the hole and try to turn it out. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.

Pete, Just don't replace the screws with one that's too long. A buddy thought he was doing me a favor and replaced the windshield screw by the radio frequency LCD display and messed it up. ~ Dan

I think they are 5 or 6 mm by 1.25. I have 4 OEM. I replaced my windshield a week ago and decided to use panel bolts. The head is as wide and you can use a 10-mm socket. ~ Jim Rogers


I've been having intermittent problems with my starter not engaging. I blamed it on the clutch switch. So I took it apart finally and cleaned it. Thought the problem was solved, but today I couldnít get the starter to engage again. Took the switch apart again and jumped across it, didnít work first 6 tries, but finally I got the starter to engage. I'm thinking I have another problem with something else, so started troubleshooting it with a test light following the diagram on the Cade CD, But am not getting what I should be in my opinion. At the clutch switch, the side coming from the starter button, my test light comes on dimly when the starter button is pressed. And according to the diagram, if I would jumper 12v + to the other side of the clutch switch, it should energize the starter relay and engage the starter. But it doesnít. I get a spark when I touch the jumper to it, but no starter engagement. But if I jumper across both contacts on the clutch switch and press the starter button, starter engages like it should. I'm really confused to whatís going on. There is 12 v + going through the starter button, clutch switch to the starter relay, correct? If so, it doesnít make any sense why the starter doesn't engage when I jumper 12v+ to the relay side of the clutch switch. Please help me figure this out. Thanks. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

Brian, First off the starter relay works by grounding it, don't apply 12v to it. The wire that glows dimly needs to be grounded in order to make the starter work. The other wire is a ground wire. When the switch is closed, as
lever is pulled it closes the contacts. Clean contacts, reinstall and push wire board towards left as you tighten the two screws. This will make it contact sooner. I also should add that if the ground wire does not make continuity with frame ground, that it could also be the problem. To check easily, hook test light to battery pos. then touch light to that terminal, it should glow bright. The other terminal with test light grounded will appear dim, (which you already stated it did and means it is working properly) as that is the terminal that needs to ground for the starter to work. Good Luck. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc

Jerry, Are you sure about the relay activating when grounded? On the Cade CD, service manual section, section 8-8 (actually page 9), it shows the battery ground on the other side that the starter circuit is hooked to. It then completes the circuit at the starter relay, showing the relay ground on the other side then the wire coming from the clutch switch. At least this is how I see it. This is why I'm confused after trying to troubleshoot it with my test light. But your way would explain why the starter doesnít engage when I put 12v+ to the wire on the clutch switch going to the starter relay. But I do believe that I tried jumping a ground to that also and it didnít engage the starter either. So I am really confused now. I have it working again like it should, but am the kind of guy that wants to know how it works just so I can understand it if I have trouble with it again. Thanks for any input on this. I dot like it when something doesn't work how I think it should after looking at the breakdown of it. Help me understand! LOL ~ Brian in IN
87 tt Gray LX

Brian, After a careful review of the wiring diagram, the simple circuit on page 8-8 appears to be incorrect. As best as I can trace it out, the power (+) to the relay comes from the starter button after it goes through the Run/Stop switch. The interlock (clutch switch) actually makes the ground for the relay. It's interesting
how many diodes that are used on this bike to prevent cross-contamination of power between circuits. One lead from the interlock travels through a diode before it goes to the starter relay. That could be why you were getting a dim light when checking with the test-light. ~ The interlock is also used to deactivate the cruise control upon clutch action. That's probably why it is used in a grounding manner. Considering all of the connections in that starter circuit, it's a no wonder why it might be a bear to diagnose. ~ Tracy

Brian, As Tracy said, the wiring diagram is not showing it properly. But if you look close at the starter solenoid, you will see one wire going to the battery positive (one also goes to ground and you can see the
switch contact). With the diodes in the schematic, it looks a little confusing. The basic principle is the starter relay is hot, the ground circuit goes to the engine stop switch, to the starter switch and to ground. Before I posted the first reply, I went out to mine and tested the circuit just to make sure. I didn't realize it was a grounding circuit until you mentioned the dim test light when you checked the start wire and when you put 12v to it and nothing happened. This is why it is safer to use a multi-tester to check circuits, you can check for power and then check for continuity. There is less chance of feed back in a system that would due damage. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc

Tracy and Jerry, thanks for your feedback. I'm sure we all learned a little more about these bikes of ours through this. I know I did. Now I know why I was so confused, the darn wiring diagram steered me wrong. HA! At least I know I not losing it. Is there a way to post a new diagram of the way it really is? ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

The most common problem is the safety switch under the clutch lever. One wonders why Suzuki would put such a piece of crap switch on such a nice bike. The other problem is with connections, generally. Near the battery is where the corrosion is worst. It's probably due to the acid fumes. Many have taken apart and cleaned all of the connections and used some good quality electrical grease (conductive) to prevent (or at least put off) a reoccurrence. Try the switch first. The rest is just pain in the ass busywork. ~ Tracy

My Cade just stopped starting this spring, and it was the clutch safety switch (found this out after I first dismantled the starter switch on the right handlebar and found that this was not the problem). Most all Cades with miles will have this problem sooner or later, as the contacts wear down and stop contacting. Also some oil after I lubed the clutch cable soaked into the switch. Take it apart (loosen two small screws under the left clutch cylinder and it will drop down). Watch out - it has a small spring copper contact that will drop out too. Manually bridge the two small PC board contacts (with a shiny Penney - I tried a tarnished Penney and it did not work) and it should start. You can sand down the back of the small PC board and use an eraser to clean the copper to improve contact, or buy a new switch from Suzuki for $14.99. Good luck! ~ Craig

Suzuki placed the switch on the Intruders there also. The same problem happens. Check the switch, it may need cleaning. ~ Don Dorion, 86 LX, 1400 Intruder

After dismantle the bike I found out that the problem was the famous switch at clutch handle. The wires were loose; I had to "Weld them back" and still was not conduit well. Solution: I left the wires connected together, in other words, I don't have to use the clutch to start. Thanks again, I'm back on the road. Drive safety, ~ Tony in Los Angeles

The only problem with leaving the wires connected is you will lose your cruise control. Others (and I) installed a switch in my steering head. I hold it down to start, and then I let it go Ė I still maintain cruise control. The momentary-on switch was only a couple dollars (or less) at Radio Shack! ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


My radiator fan stopped working, fluid boiled over. I jumped out the temp switch and the fan started up. I took off the switch from the radiator and the threads from the radiator came off with the switch. Wow, I now have to repair the threads. I will be using a Helicoil but I don't know the tread type. Does any one out there know the thread diameter and pitch? ~ Don Dorion 86 LX & 1400 Intruder


Buy the new switch and measure it. It will for sure be metric, though. ~ Tracy

I have bought several different sizes Helicoils from time to time, and through my search I believe they have threads for all repairs. Get a spec book direct from them. This is how I was able to search for some odd sizes that no one else carried. Good luck. ~ Rod, Ď86 Cade

What it is a stainless steel thread insert that looks like a spring. The Helicoil has a special threader that threads an oversized orifice and the coil is threaded into the new threads. The original thread is repaired. The best thing about it is the thread is stainless steel and not aluminum. This helps in the fusion of the two aluminum surfaces. It's also good for striped sparkplug threads. ~ Don Dorion


Hi All. I have a couple questions for anyone who might know the answers. I have a very small anti freeze leak on the right side (a couple drops on the floor after it sits for awhile) which I assume is the water pump seal starting to go. I'm hoping it will hold out until winter. Here are my questions: 1. Could the water pump start leaking really bad all of a sudden or is this the way they usually go bad? 2. Should I replace the water pump as a unit or just replace the seals and/or bearings, o-rings, things like that? 3. If I should replace the water pump as a unit, where does anyone suggest I order it? Thanks in advance. ~ Rick

I rode with a guy who works at Arkport. He got a rush of water into his oil that tipped him off to a problem. Luckily we got it shut down and off the road before he did any big damage. He replaced everything. Might be a good question for Gordie at Arkport. I don't think he would steer you wrong. And yes, you can get the pump from them. Don't forget to mention Cavalcade_USA or AMA...I think they give discounts to members. ~ KennG

Rick, I just went thought the same thing. The water is coming out of the water pump seep hole. This is normal when the seals start to go bad. It wonít get any better. I took mine apart, and replaced the seals. It's a real easy job. There is no sense in replacing the whole pump if just the seals are bad. The seal kit cost me $19.99 from Suzuki. I didnít replace the side cover gasket, (if you donít tear it, a little gasket sealer works fine) or the water pump o-ring. Just the mechanical seal. If you must replace the whole pump, this is the reply I got from my local dealer. You can go to "Error! Bookmark not defined.? OS=S10573776101" to place this order. 17400-24A00 Quantity: QTY - 1 Item: PUMP ASSY Your Price: $132.84 (Retail: $147.60) ~ Tom

Hi Rick, Consider yourself lucky your water pump is giving you notice that it is about to go. Replace it immediately. I only found out mine was going when the temp gauge flew up to hot. When that happens, you don't go any farther. You can still order them from the dealer, but you might check some of the warehouses listed in the motorcycle magazines. I have paid anywhere from $135 to $150. You have to order the whole pump. They don't sell parts. They aren't difficult to replace. Everything is right out there. ~ Eugene San Diego

Oh yes they do sell parts! Just bought all the seals needed (from Suzuki) to fix mine for $19.99. ~ Tom

Hey Rick, I got a water pump from but can't remember the price. You can rebuild them but it is easier to replace the whole thing. Don't forget to buy a side cover gasket and get some Caterpillar antifreeze to top off the radiator. Fill the radiator slooooowly from left side under glove box then fill plastic tank to level. Let me know how it turns out. ~ Frank in Indy '86 LX


Just finished putting the new exhaust system from Mathieus custom exhaust (got the latest version) they slip on fine sound great and increased power and gas mileage. Anyway figured I check them out so saddled up the wife and headed for the Great Smokies what a trip! We put on 2000 in 5 days. Developed a fairly good sized leak in coolant from left side of fairing running down the cylinder head (SCARY) I decided to turn for home, we never overheated but frequently added water in the last 1000 miles. Good news is that once home started dissecting the Cade to find out that the head was fine and what was leaking turned out to be that the number two coolant reservoir split at the seam! Had to remove entire fairing compressor and radiator to get at it. But luckily was able to order it and all new hoses. Hope to have her running by the weekend. Just for the record Those Custom Exhaust pipes are really fantastic! ~


Hi Guys, I'm needing some feedback on why my Cade shifts hard. What I mean is it takes at least twice as much pressure on the shifter to change gears then it does on a friendís Cade. It's been like this since I got it last year and just thought it was the nature of the beast, until I rode a friendís Cade today, and his shifts very easily. I've changed the gear oil in the secondary drive back in April when I had to replace the seals. Put in 80w-90 hypoid GL-5 oil as per the manual. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated by the top of my foot, as it gets sore after several hours of shifting. LOL BTW.... The shifter is not tight on the pivot shaft; I feel the stiffness is internally. Thanks. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Brian, The gear oil is separate from the tranny gears. They run in the motor oil.

1) Lube the shaft on which the shifter pivots
2) Lube the little ball joints on both ends of the connector rod
3) change to better oil (if you haven't already). Motorcycle oil and preferably a semi or full synthetic
4) make sure you don't have any air in the hydraulic clutch system. A little air may not let the clutch release all the way.
5) Make sure the shifter arm that attaches to the shaft coming out of the motor is as near parallel to the foot shifter arm as possible. Since these bikes have the adjustable foot pegs, the arms could get out of parallel if the rod length wasn't adjusted when the pegs were moved. This can require additional foot power if they are too far out of whack.
6) Start a daily regimen of toe lifting exercises. Start with a relatively lightweight (say 15 pounds) and work yourself up over the next few weeks. When you have to wear a larger size shoe on your left foot, you know your making progress. ~ Tracy

Brian, two possibilities first what type of oil are you running? I recently changed to a synthetic oil blend and it seems to shift easier. Others have had good luck with Mobil1. The second is to take a chance on the heel-toe shifter raffle. ~ Al from Mass


Is it hard to find neutral? If so the clutch lever bushings may be worn not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. There are two one in the hole that the bolt goes through in the lever and one at the end of the rod that comes out of the clutch master cylinder. The rod bushing is the same as Honda if you can't get one from Suzuki. The bushing for the bolt I have not been able to purchase separate from the lever. However a good machine shop can make the bushing for a few bucks instead of replacing the whole lever. By the way when the bolt bushing gets worn it can also cause the clutch switch to act up intermittently. They should never have to be replaced if taken apart and greased at least once a year. ~ Phil 86LX


Brian, Two thoughts:
#1) What type of oil are you using? I purchased my Cade as a new bike in '86. After I took delivery, I complained to the dealer that it shifted hard compared to the demonstrator I had ridden. He recommended that I use Golden Spectro #4 at my next oil change. That cured the hard shifting. It also eliminated the Suzuki shifting noise (Clunk). That is the only oil I have ever used since the first oil change. Unfortunately, not many shops carry it here in Indiana.
#2) Is your clutch sucking air? Three years ago I had to replace my hydraulic clutch line. It had become dry rotted and started to suck air. I replaced it with a Russell S/Steel line. ~ Bob D. IN, "Gideon" 1400

I do not know if it was the timing or if it just happened that way. My Cade was very hard and stiff to shift when I got it and not knowing any better I thought that it was just the way it shifted. Shortly after I bought my Cade the lower clutch slave unit started leaking clutch fluid which required attention as I was always having to top off and fill the clutch fluid. After I put in a new seal in the lower clutch slave unit, my Cade started shifting real easy. Today it shifts extremely easy. Was it the oil different engine oil that I was using? I do not think so as I had been using the same oil from the time I got the bike until I fixed the lower clutch slave unit. (I put it off a long time about a year.) Or did something else change that I was not aware of? My experiences! ~ David Williams Evansville, Indiana 87 LXE

Where is the lower clutch slave? Thanks, ~ Dan

I believe it's inside of the transmission. There is a bleeder valve on the outside of the transmission near where the fill level indicator is. It has a little rubber cap on it. If you bleed the clutch yourself be careful not to squeeze the lever too fast. You'll have fluid everywhere. The fluid in the slave gets very hot and tends to get a bit of moisture in it and can cause shift problems as well as clutch chatter when taking off from a stop. Bleed it till you get clean fluid at the bleeder. Pile a bunch of rags under the lever on top of the fairing pockets. It can be bled with the cover off of the master cylinder just go slow. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau  "In the Woods" Error! Bookmark not defined. Nekoosa, WI

The clutch slave is right by your left foot, not by the level indicator (that's on the right). There may or may not be a rubber cap over the bleeder valve. Many times, they get rotten over the years and fall off. Top off the reservoir with clean fluid (BE VERY CAREFUL WITH BRAKE FLUID IT WILL EAT PAINT OFF AND DESTROY PLASTIC). Put a length of clear hose on the bleeder valve and direct it into a can or jar. Squeeze the clutch lever and hold pressure on the lever while you carefully crack open the bleeder valve until fluid flows. When the lever gets to the grip, hold it there and close the bleeder valve. Release the lever and do it again until you have clean fluid at the bleeder. Keep track of the fluid level in the reservoir. If it goes down too much, you will suck air into the system and you will have to start over. ~ Tracy

My clutch lever routinely goes to the grip without bleeding - is something wrong? ~ Brian 87LXE in CT

No. That's how it supposed to work. The clutch is different from the brakes since it is releasing the clutch and needs to move through its motion to do so. I suppose that I was making more reference to bleeding brakes than the clutch and you could actually pull the lever all the way to the grip and hold it there while you crack open the bleeder. The clutch springs would then provide the needed pressure to force fluid (and possibly air) from the bleeder. Watch the tube and when fluid appears to stop flowing, close the valve, release the lever and do it again. Sorry if I confused you. ~ Tracy


I bought the bike that was for sale in Atlanta, moved it to Texas to revive it. When I try to start it gas pours out of what I think is where the breather hose should be hooked up (there is not a breather hose on either side). Can anyone help me with what needs to be done? It only does it on the right side.

Thanks, ~ Roy in TX

Itís probably a stuck float bowl valve, Roy. Likely to happen if the bike has sat a long time without being started, especially if the fuel level was higher than the carbs. Drain the gas out the right side carbs and take a screwdriver handle and tap on the right side carbs. That should free up the valve. There isnít a breather hose, but I agree it kinda looks like something should go there. If that doesnít free up the valve, take the air box off and lightly tap the metal rim of the carb at the intake. My Cade did the same when I let her sit over a year without running. It freed up with some wheedling. ~ Spike

Roy, I had the same problem and just had my dealer replace the bladder and pins in the carbs...about $600 from my (take it up the rear end) local dealer.... But it runs like a champ! ~ Mike Romano

It's either a stuck float (or floats), or a bad needle/seat. Try tapping the carbs with a screwdriver handle to see if it will loosen up. Also, put some carb cleaner in the gas tank (gunk, Techron or similar) and see if it doesn't clear up with some riding. If it's too bad, though, you will need to clean the carbs by hand. ~ Tracy


My 86 Lx from day one (2 months now) would start to cut out at about 5000 to 5500 rpm. Today I guess that I wondered if it was getting any better, so I run it until it cut out, shifted and it acted like I turned the switch off. It did start firing before it stalled. Now it is out of steam by 3000 rpm. Lots of black smoke and if I don't back out of it will stall. Funny thing is that it seems to pull better than ever at low rpm. I'm thinking timing or maybe low voltage to the igniters. Seems like anything else would involve more than one unit. (2 igniters, 4 coils, 4plugs, 4carbs flooding). The plugs are new, as is the air and fuel filter. Any ideas? By the way does anyone know how the timing is set? ~ Jim

Jim, Can't be timing, it's fixed. There are 4 signal generators that reside with the stator and there are no adjustment shown in the service manual nor is ignition timing discussed in maintenance. Since the rev limiter is suppose to kick in at 7,750 RPM, then it could be one of the igniters (I assume, looking at the diagram that the rev limit is built into the igniters). Or just a connection going to or coming from one of the igniters. Lots of black smoke means that either it's way rich in the carbs, or you have plugs not firing. Believe it or not, a short stint of the rev limiter or other problem at 5000 to 5500 RPM could have fouled out a spark plug or two regardless of how new they are. Some brands of plugs are worse than others. NGK is the Japanese bike plug of choice. Others I would choose include Bosch and AC. I'm not a big fan of Champion but some have good luck with them. There's another Japanese brand, I think it's Nippon Denso (or something like that). Could be the same as NGK. ~ Tracy

I used Nippon Denso once and wasn't happy with how long it lasted. ~ Gerry in NY

James, does it matter if you are under load or not? Do you have any hills to charge up? It will be a big clue if you can find out the cut out speed downhill vs. uphill. The black smoke is most puzzling. The high RPM cutout would suggest insufficient fuel flow, but that doesnít really explain the black smoke. The black smoke sounds like rich running or insufficient airflow. Most puzzling! ~ Spike

Jim, Have you checked the air filter? It sounds like it is starving for air and flooding itself with gas. Also check the air intake in the filter cover to make sure there is no blockage. Another possible cause would be an exhaust restriction, pre muffler? ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc

The plugs were of course black and looked somewhat wet, but then I knew that it wasn't burning the gas. New plugs made no change. The spark seems weak. I have good voltage at the battery, but I haven't taken off the fairing yet to see what gets to the igniters. Someone mentioned some igniters from another bike that would work. Anyone know what they were? I'm open to any more ideas. Could I have left something loose when I replaced the stator? ~ Jim

Jim, When you took off the stator cover you probably had to unplug the harness that feeds the igniters. Check and clean the connectors. ~ Tracy

Black and fuel wet or black and oil wet? There is a difference. Fuel wet is rich fuel/air mixture or you leave the choke too long; oil wet means the rings are starting to go. Also, when you change then plugs, check the gaps and don't over-tighten the plugs. ~ Gerry in NY


Thanks to everyone that tried to help. I guess that no one knew what kind of dummy they were dealing with. After the first couple of times I fueled up I got a windshield towel (the little paper ones) and used it to catch the last few drops of gas from the hose. I thought it would be real handy to just jam it by the gas cap. Guess when I run it up to the limiter it sucked the towel into the air filter box opening. Any way it runs a lot better without it in there. Tracy, how about a section on the next CD "For People to Dumb to Own One?" ~ Jim

Jim, If there is some minimum IQ level below which one should not be trusted with a motorcycle, I surely would fail to achieve that mark. I have made mistakes of this order of magnitude working on bikes. Fortunately I was almost up to the normal IQ range by the time I acquired my Cade in 1985. Iím thinking of writing a book about all the stupid things Iíve done over the years, and most of them involve motorcycles in one way or another. The rag in the intake does explain the black smoke nicely, as well as the fact that it runs fine at low RPM, perhaps even better than without it, since the Cade tends to run a bit lean anyway. Glad the problem was so easily and cheaply fixed. ~ Spike



Last week my bike quit auto leveling, started looking into it and from my trouble shooting so far it appears to be either the compressor or power to it since the interlocks work, the air seats and the level button call for air but no compressor. My question, is the motor on the compressor re-buildable? Has anyone taken one apart? I am sure from Suzuki it is probably very inexpensive. Any constructive suggestions? For the time being has anyone ever tried forcing air into the shocks through the air fitting on the top of the compressor? It is supposed to be a beautiful weekend for riding and I don't want to sit around here with a saggy Cade. ~ Greg

Greg, There are some checks you can do on the air-compressor system to see if it is an electrical problem. There is at least one relay involved and the sensor. See section 9 of the service manual around page 67. ~ Tracy

Without removing all the plastic I can hear the relays changing state when I push the seat buttons or push the auto level button, without being on the bike the ALC system let air out of the shocks so I know the logic and the control module and sensor work. Must be power? I can't get to the power connector to the compressor without removing all the plastic, so I guess I know what I will be doing this weekend.

I am still wondering if I can force air into the shocks with a tire pump via the fitting on the top of the compressor so I can ride this weekend and deal with "doing it right" on a rainy day. I would think that if the ALC system were calling for air, the system wouldn't care or know where in the compressor the air is coming from. Any guesses? ~ Greg

You can get to the compressor relay by removing the left side lowers (at least on an 88). On mine there are two relays at the bottom of the right fairing, the rearmost is the relay to turn on the compressor. If you're lucky you've just got a bad relay, you should be able to jump the relay and get it to kick over. ~ Brenden

Greg, The answer about forcing air into the shocks is yes. Here is a way to do it but be careful as the shocks only require a small amount of air and you do not want to over pressurize them. Also getting them to the right pressure is tricky as just checking them lets a lot of pressure out. ~ If you look at the top of the compressor you will hopefully find a short air tube (about 6" long) that has an end on it the same as on your tires and can be used for filling tires etc with an adapter hose. Unscrew this from the compressor and put something into the hole left to plug it and prevent dirt from getting in. ~ If you check the rear left shock you will find 2 air hoses. 1 goes to the front of the bike (compressor) and 1 goes to the right shock. Unscrew the air hose that goes to the front of the bike from the shock (I would suggest protecting the fitting on this hose by wrapping it in a plastic bag or something) and screw into it's place the hose you took from the compressor. ~ All done - you can now inflate or deflate the shocks using this short hose and an external air supply. You will probably want about 35-45 pounds of pressure - but again - be careful - the air volume in the shocks is very small and increase/decreases quickly. ~ I had to do this for a few months and it works fine. ~ Rick

Use a tee in the line and put a small (!") 0-60 pressure gauge in the tee. You can now see the pressure in the shock and not lose pressure checking it. ~ ?


Hey folks, I had a fun incident. I was riding from my house and the rear brake locked up! OH S__T! Yea, it was interesting. I got it home and checked it out. The pedal would not pump brake fluid to the rear brake at all. I'm thinking master cylinder. Does anyone have a working one from a parts bike? I have rear brake pads that I ordered coincidentally a week ago. They should be here any day (the pad back plate got white hot)! ~ Gerry in NY

A possible explanation is that you somehow trapped a big air bubble in the brake fluid line. Perhaps there's from a leak at the interface between the hose and the slave cylinder. Is there a puddle of brake fluid on your garage floor? Then you rode off and pumped the brake a few times. This compressed the air in the line and wouldnít let the brake release. Had this happen on a GS850 front brake. Limped home 400 miles from Monterey to Ridgecrest, Taxifornia on the back brake alone. That was the same ride that I saw the first pre-production Cavalcade, ridden by two bike magazine editors, back in January 85. Their names were Tosh Something and Grace Somebody, I think. ~ Spike


Hey gang, I hope everyone is doing well. I have not been riding very much lately because of many little projects my lovely wife has designed for me. No, the CADE is NOT 4 SALE. What I have discovered is that the gear indicator on the display no longer shows 4th gear. I was wondering if anyone has had this happen where it was just one gear not being displayed or if it has been no gear position being indicated? If it is just one gear could it be possible that the wires for that particular gear may be cut or could it be the switch? If you remember a few months ago I had a problem with a rodent (RAT) chewing through the turn signal grounds rendering the t/s useless. If anyone has ever had a problem with the gear position indicator give me a shout. Everything still works, (i.e.: cruise, lights, etc). On another note: FYI, I was having a problem where my brake lights would not come on with a light application of the front brake. I could not cancel the cruise control with the front brake unless I applied a generous amount of front brake. Doing this would cause the front end to dive for just a moment. I hated it. I could cancel the cc with the rear brake or by pulling in the clutch or turning the cc off at the right handlebar switch. But I liked the convenience of being able to lightly tap the front brake to cancel cc. TO fix this problem is simple. It's real simple. Under your front brake lever you have a switch, much like the clutch switch under the left lever. This switch is adjustable. If you loosen the two screws holding the switch/cover on you can move the switch to and fro approximately 1/4". If your brake lights are not coming on unless you grab a big handful of front brake slide the switch inward, towards the center of the bike. If your brake lights are coming on too soon or are on all the time, slide the switch outward towards the end of the handlebar. Now I can lightly tap the front brake and the cc will cancel without launching me over the top of the tank. Just thought I would pass this on. Maybe we could post this onto the Cavalcade page as well in the maintenance section. Just ride and clear the mind. ~ Gary Fairfield Jacksonville, FL 86 LXE, TT blue SOC-USA #100021 GWRRA #609451

Gary, I didn't think it was anything to worry about. Occasionally (usually happens in the first 7 miles) my 5th gear indicator won't light up. It goes out for 3-5 min or doesn't come on at all till I get a few miles down the road. Sometimes I'll talk to it and it will wink on for the rest of the trip and sometimes it comes on for a sec, to fake me out. On its return I usually welcome #5 back. ~ Dan


Has anyone used any alternative to the paper gaskets used for sealing the clutch cover? How about silicone (Permatex)? Pros & Cons? Thanks, ~ Brian 87LXE in CT

Get the surfaces clean. Use the blue, guaranteed not to leak kind. Don't put on too much. Don't tighten the cover down fully right away. Just snug it. Let it sit for 1/2 hour or more, then tighten fully. Cheap gasket, but it works. ~ Tracy

Here's the best sealer to use Permatex Ultra Copper. High temp gasket maker. I really donít care for the blue sealer; it tends to get to rubbery. This sealer stays soft and seals much better. ~ Tom



Question for the group. Has anyone replace the complete radio antenna on their Cavalcade. I know it unscrews from the antenna bracket in the back, and the cable goes up the left-hand side behind the saddlebag and side cover. It's at this side it disappears under the center section. I would assume at some point it screws into the back of the radio housing. But how difficult is it to get to it? Any words of wisdom? ~ Dan '86 LX

Dan, Take off your seat and false gas tank. It snakes from the back under the trunk and then along the left side of the bike up to where it plugs into the radio. ~ Rick



I swapped out all the switches you mention according to the directions I found on the web site! They work great now! ~ Unfortunately, I still have problems with my volume knob and the Automatic Volume Level control knob. They don't rotate smoothly, and the volume 'jumps' significantly across these not smooth spots. If the CD contains information on replacing the knobs (specifically - what parts to order, and
from where) I would order the CD today! My other problem is that the tape deck won't play tapes, the auto-reverse just keeps switching directions, I don't know why. Thanks again! ~ Dave

Dave, If you just want the radio manual, you can download it for free at Error! Bookmark not defined.

The problems you describe are probably remedied by replacement of the pots (potentiometers) under the subject knobs, and adjustment of the tape transport system. When the capstan roller stops moving tape one direction, the unit senses that and reverses the tape (it thinks it's at the end of the tape). There are some adjustments noted in the radio manual to adjust that. ~ Tracy

Can anyone tell us which schematic drawing shows the value of the step potentiometer for the passenger's audio (volume) control? On the part itself, it has 103B AR. The control is on the left side of the trunk. The passenger controls it when on the bike. The passenger uses their left hand. ~ We talked to a tech today in Houston who said this was a step potentiometer that is used because of the vibration caused by a motorcycle. Any other potentiometer will change the volume as you drive down the road. The tech could not determine the value of the part and advised us to look at the schematic and verify the value. We do not think it is in the radio section because it is the remote for the passenger. The tech said he felt an exact replacement could be found. He said that would be the best situation. ~ Harlan and Barbara Speidel, '86 LX

The printed schematic doesn't have a value. If the pot is still serviceable you may be able to check it with an ohmmeter. You may also try to clean the potentiometer with electronic cleaner if it is crackling. If the pot has 3 terminals two of them will show the total resistance and the 3rd is the tap, it will show the increments. A step pot will vary in increments that are constant numbers being the same values. ~ Don Dorion, 86 LX, 1400 Intruder

Don, Thanks a million! The ohms are 9.25 so a 10K will be the value. The tap did show a difference, which got me thinking. Hmmm.sprayed some cleaner on it and was playing with the knob and my wife said, "Hey, I can hear the clicks clear across the room. I have not heard that before." I used some jumpers and tried it out and it works. Thanks again, ~ Harlan


More Watts

I've just finished pulling the combometer out to replace a few of the burned out dash lights (what a good way to get to know the bike). The original ones say 1.7W, which I assume, is the wattage. I could only find bulbs that were either 0.6 or 3.0 watts. I don't know if the brighter bulbs would blind me or more importantly would this extra wattage have any negative impact on the electrical system. Any words of wisdom always appreciated. ~ Steve and Ms Vic, Ď86LX

Hi Folks got a couple of switch questions. My brother (who is a phantom Cade owner in Ridgecrest, CA) wants to replace the running light switch on his 86 LXE. He says that the pushbutton type tends to get stuck because of the sand out there in the desert, and wondered if anyone had used a rocker switch. If so, have you got specifics on where to get it and what switch, model #, etc, you used?

Also, some time ago one of the members had installed a battery cutoff so that the clock didn't drain the battery. Same question: what switch, and where did you get it? ~ Bob Schindler, Ď86 LX, Jupiter, FL

I recently picked up a nice little rocker switch from radio shack. Illuminated Red. The switch is rectangular but fits in a round hole. It is rated to 30A at 12VDC. Not sure if it is waterproof or not though, but I needed a new switch for my running lights and it looked nice. Radio Shack # 275-712 ~ Rick

Who can recommend a good switch to replace the clutch safety switch? ~ Gerry in NY


Ok veteran Caders, I need help. Long story short: Cade not charging, removed and tested R/R per Cade CD-failed. Ordered from Electrex-installed-charged battery-started Cade and hooked up multi meter-only about 12.4 volts. Two-wire ground connector at battery is ok, connector at R/R is good, and three yellow wires for generator doesnít need to be hooked up in a specific order do they? Electrex told me that the orange wire on my bike was not needed, so I taped it off. Is this correct? HELP. I really want to ride this summer, so I will be very grateful for any help. ~ Glen

Glen, You don't need the orange wire. The order in which the yellows are connected makes no difference. Did you check the output of the stator? Many times the RR goes because of the stator. ~ Tracy

Just ground out my multi meter and probe the three yellows, should be @ 90 volts? What kind of resistance readings should I have when I check for continuity across the three yellows? Or should there be no resistance? Thanks for the Cade virgin assistance. Humbly, ~ Glen


I have come across a problem with the taillights on my '86 LX. The brake lights work fine, but the running lights do not come on at all (the bulbs are 100% good). I took a meter to the feeds and found the voltage to the running lights to be only 7.0V when everybody knows it should be running around 12V. I checked the wires all the way back to the OK Monitor Control Unit with no breaks. Per the wiring diagram, all 12V feeds to the OK Monitor Control Unit are indeed reading 12V. The only strange voltage out of the unit is to the running taillights at 7.0V. The monitor itself seems to be working; i.e., LED indicator for the tail light bulb works correctly when a bulb is blown. I have just this strange voltage out to the running taillights. Has anyone else ever experienced something like this before? Is it merely replacing the OK Monitor Control Unit? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time! ~ Jerry G. (Error! Bookmark not defined.) '86 LX in Colorado Springs


I have a bit of a brainteaser with my headlight and was hoping you could give me some guidance. Headlight does not work in either HI or LOW beam. So, we replaced bulb. Computer does not indicate there is a problem. Time and Gear Position display perfectly. There is power to the fuse block. I checked the circuit breaker and checked wires and lines to the light and light socket. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance. ~ Bill

Hi Bill, DO you get the HI light indicator on the dashboard? If so and if you've checked all circuits, fuses, bulb, etc., I only can think about couple more things. The plug that goes to the headlight plug has a broken wire inside or - the contact switch (I'm talking about the one were you put the key to start the bike.) try passing your hand under the contact switch and check If all the wires are properly set. I had a problem with my speedometer " reading" and the rear lights. Only when starting the bike, after I done check all and I was on my way to the Hospital to see the shrink for some reason I took off the contact switch and saw no anomalies. When a closer look showed this little wire that actually was making contact but not welded anymore, fixed and my problems were gone for good. Hope you get a solution to your problem. Anyway, you'll get your answer from someone on the group. We have very smart techs with a lot of experience troubleshooting the babies. ~ Luis Meyer-thor Belize City



Okay boys and girls. In a few short weeks, I will have a parts bike and I am looking to sell some parts from it. It was laid down on the right side and the fairing is toast, but the bags and trunk are still good. It is an '86 LX in the darker brown color. For sure, the following parts (and others) are already gone:


Side covers (plastic below seats)



Please send me a private e-mail at Error! Bookmark not defined. with your parts needs. Eventually, I will also have a complete engine for sale. The parts bike only has 21K miles and mine has about 107K. And, even though mine runs perfectly and doesn't smoke or use any oil, I just like the idea of a lower mile motor. ~ I accept any form of payment (including credit cards) and will find the most economical form of shipment. Each requested part will be photographed and that photo will be e-mailed to the potential recipient before completing the transaction. I pull no punches and I will not misrepresent any item as something it is not. If any of you are avid e-Bayerís, you can check my feedback profile under the e-bay user ID "tpres". I have 171 positives and no negatives or neutrals. I work hard to make sure every transaction is to the satisfaction of the buyer (or seller). ~ Tracy

When I bought my used 87 Cade, the seller said that he had a trunk luggage rack (I always assumed the original purchaser bought it from the dealer.) that went with the bike. I was always going to install it; but never got around to it and at this time do not plan to use it so it is now for sale. I want $25.00 plus the buyer pays for the shipping. I will ship it the cheapest way or as directed. ~

I've decided to clean house and have a couple parts/accessories for sale. Have a small size trunk rack, 4 light trunk light bar and new speedometer cable for sale. I acquired a large size trunk rack, decided not to use the light bar after I purchased it from another member and bought the speedometer cable on speculation that I needed a new one when I really needed the gear housing. I just got the cable today. See attachment for a photo. Anybody interested please contact me by private email at: Error! Bookmark not defined.. ~ Dennis Vanill, Error! Bookmark not defined.


I have a friend and fellow Cade owner that is looking for a speedometer head. He has an 87 Cade LXE; the problem is noise in the speedo as he moves. I guess he has disconnected the cable and the noise went away, he replaced the cable and that didn't help. He also went to Arkport; they worked on the problem but didn't fix it. Anybody have a good one lying around? ~ GAR, Email:

Greetings, I'm finally putting my Cavalcade back together and have run into a slight problem with the threaded inserts in the left and right cowl panels. The new ones are missing some of the inserts. I've tried to take the old ones out of the broken panels but they turn with the screws either when tightening or removing the screw. This would mean having to take the faring off to get to them each time I want to get to the battery or compressor. Has anyone had any luck securing these things? ~ Dwayne '86 LX

SUPER GLUE! ~ Denny Potoczky

Dwayne, One method of possible getting these to seat again is get a nut...same thread size as the screw. Put it on the screw, thread the screw in as far as it will go. Then carefully tighten the nut on the screw. This type of fastener goes in and mushrooms slightly to hold in place. By tightening the nut on the screw you may be able to mushroom it enough so it will hold. Be careful not to tighten the nut so much as to strip the screw out, as the threaded insert is a softer material than the screw or nut. Sometimes this will work and sometimes, depending on wear of the hole it will not. ~ Dennis

I am still looking for replacements for the 3 buttons for the cassette player. Anyone out there have any extras or know of a source where they might be purchased? Jerry G - 86 LX Colorado Springs email:


The SCC USA patch is 7 X 2, gold letters on a black patch with a gold border. The price is $3.75 per patch (that includes shipping) and I am taking orders until July 16. Then I will order them and will get an approximate delivery date. It will take 2 - 3 weeks to get them to me. Then I'll ship them out. I do need a minimum of 50 ordered to get them made. ~ I have 20 on my list so far. I'd like to order them in a couple of weeks. Please, send me privately to order them. Thanks. ~ Gerry in NY

Just an update as to the progress with the patch and pin quote. I have finally heard from the company that did them for us before. The bad news is they are out of that business...but there is good news also. Jim Kromwall, the owner of the business has given me the name of another manufacturer, who's daughter was the artist for him and has our records and artwork so there should be no setup charge and she is aquatinted with our patch and pin. I have just gotten this information over the weekend and sent an email to the new company and am awaiting a reply. As soon as I get a reply with quotes on prices I will post them to the group. ~ Dennis Vanill


Do they really help? Is there something better? Where is the best or cheapest place to get them? Got to make the copilot happy or it could be a very uncomfortable summer. ~ Jerry í86 LX Wisc


I'm thinking about picking up the small flatbed trailer from Harbor Freight ($179 bucks last I checked, darn good price). I'd like to build a safe and preferably fairly quiet dog carrier on it. Just wondering if anybody has any experience with this? ~ Brenden Walker

I have seen (depending on the size of the dowg and the carrier) you could put a railing around the trailer with the plastic carrier fastened to the trailer bed. This allows you to let the dog out to walk around on the trailer and you donít have to chasing after him until you want to. ~ Roy in TX

Well, he's not too big, but 50# and large enough. I was thinking about using a regular dog carrier, but I think the wind noise would be way too much. It's bad enough for the humans with a windscreen in front; it'd be pretty heinous for a dog. I'd probably end up designing something with closeable windows and some form of aerodynamic 'baffling' to drop the wind velocity down to a reasonable level at the window/screen. ~ BW


I am hoping to find someone with a parts bike that may be willing to sell the cruise control module. I have not seen the part but it is supposed to mount above the headlight. It is very possible that I will be interested in more parts also. Thank you, New owner 86 LXE ~ Brian:


Some time back someone was looking for old stator cores, to have rebuilt. I just wonder if any were found or if anybody has any? Iíd like to have one to have rebuilt to have a spare. ~ Tom


Any of you guys have the sliding map case cover which is located over the battery? Mine fell off this morning and shattered. Damn I hated that. ~ Ted 87LXE


Any members have a recommendation for a source for the left side-cover gasket? Dealer? Aftermarket? Thanks, Glen

Glen: I just ordered 2 right-side (clutch) cover gaskets from my Dealer. Cost was $13 and change and took about a week to get. I suppose the left side gasket would be close to that price - you can check prices at - they had the same gasket for 3 dollars less (but then had to add $6 s/h... I ordered one from them, too, along with a replacement slider for the vents - total was like $40. ~ Brian 87LXE in CT


Hey all, I'm taking a 2500 mile ride in September through the Southwest and west coast and I'm looking for a small to medium, clean and in good shape, cargo trailer for an '87 Cade in the $400-$600 dollar range. I would like it complete with swivel hitch and whatever it takes to get it on the road. I live in N.E. Washington and would be willing to travel 300-400 miles to pick it up. ~ John Kloster, Email: Error! Bookmark not defined.

John: A couple members including myself built trailers using a Sears Car-top carrier for about $175 and a small 40" x 48" utility trailer with 12" wheels for about $190, plus shipping ($80 I think) and labor to assemble - I assembled mine as did others. Attached are a couple of pictures of such a trailer (without swivel hitch)... All told we came in under $600 ~ Brian 87LXE in CT

The swivel hitch is NOT a necessity. I've been hauling my 40" X 48" flat bed with a Searsís car top carrier for 3 years now and have not found a need for the swivel hitch. You would be amazed how far you can lay the bike over and not have any problems. The only complaint I've had so far is from a guy riding behind me. He said that the trailer stays flat and he couldn't figure out how far I was leaning. Get it if you HAVE to but you can get along just fine with a regular ball set up. ~ KennG

John, I built mine like Brian's except I narrowed my frame and used 8'' tires instead and color matched my fenders to bike and put diamond plate alum on deck and around frame my total around $400. Harbor Freight has trailers like such for $129. And no shipping charge. ~ Chopper

Wanted to clarify my message to the group concerning pulling a trailer. (Archive message#18468) If you're new at it, there are some things to take into consideration, total weight, tongue weight relation
speed and just about anything you can think of concerning that NEW piece of equipment you have behind you. I'm not suggesting never pull one JUST BE CAREFUL. It's just like riding a Motorcycle, once
you loose your respect for it can become a dangerous way to travel. Educate yourself as to what to consider when taking this plunge I'm sure there are probably 100"s of trailer pullers that have never experienced this. And there are probably a few who experienced it and weren't able to pass the EXPERIENCE on. After I went through it and did realize that by adding some more tongue weight I could remedy the problem, the trip was an enjoyable one, and provided me with the added space for my camping gear. And it was an experience I truly will never forget. Just as with about everything we do in life there
are LIMITS and ONCE we exceed those we have to be ready for whatever COMES OUR WAY.
DIDN'T mean to scare anyone away from owning/pulling a trailer. ~ Walter n Maryland

One more thing to be aware of. When going very slow in parking lots, be careful not to accelerate too hard if the trailer is not directly behind you. The weight of the trailer will have a tendency to pull sideways on the hitch if itís still off to one side or the other. After making a U-turn or any tight turn, wait till the trailer has completed the turn as well. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau


Brian: If it isn't too much trouble, how's about sharing the part number and the supplier for those clutch springs? Maybe when the newsletter is posted there will be a reference to it for later purchasers to secure theirs. Also anyone purchasing clutch parts, or any parts for that matter also share that info with us. ~ Walter

I am not sure about the part number, but I simply went to my dealer and ordered Barnett clutch springs for a Cavalcade. It was about $10 for the set of 4 and got them in about a week. The case gasket was $13.73 (which I ripped). Can't wait to see how those new springs enhance the ride! ~ Brian 87LXE in CT

CHROME TRIM: Anyone have the chrome trim strips (both right and left) below the saddlebags for an 86 LX. Both of mine are pretty tore up from previous ownerís modifications. Dwayne


Friends, Anyone had any experience with getting the mirrors refurbished? I've got a couple of spots on the left mirror that have lost theyíre "silvering" or whatever that is...the rest of the mirror is fine. It's not on the
surface, but seems to be behind the glass. Is there anything a person can do to the mirrors, short of replacing them? ~ Fred L. Meisenheimer


Burgundy and Gray, 56K miles, Extras. Serviced and ready to ride. All maintenance records and references available. $4800 Email: Error! Bookmark not defined.

Selling my Cade ASAP. 76 K but in very good condition, everything works well and new Dunlop tires. Sound system is very good. It was not used by previous owner and has intercom system in operation. $5, 000 (610) 518- 5009 ~ Lee Southall, Downingtown, PA

I need to sell my Cade. It is a 1988 LX with only 6000 miles. Itís in great shape I will let it go for $4500.00. It will be for sale for only 2 weeks after that I will put it somewhere and store it for this price the buyer will have to come and get it if you need any info please e-mail me at Error! Bookmark not defined.

Okay: you all may start to chastise me now if you wish however I am going to make an offer that I'm sure someone will be interested in. My wife and I do not have time to ride together much at this very busy time in our lives. Our jobs are changing and we have two boys who are into everything so here goes.

FOR SALE ~ 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GT. $1750.00. Located in Coffeyville, Kansas. Bike has 40,XXX miles on it, new clutch 3000 miles ago, new back tire 500 miles ago, new battery this spring. All it really needs is front fork seals and a windshield due to sun damage. I will try to get a digital picture in the next few days. I hate to sell it especially for this price but I bought it worth the money and don't need to make money on it. Maybe you all know someone who can get some good out of it. It can be ridden anywhere. My home Email is If you are interested Email me and I will try to answer questions. ~ Norman Harp


For Sale 1988 Cavalcade LXE For Sale $6900.00 (Canadian) Bike has everything except a CB, other extra's are trailer hitch and wiring, everything is operational, bike has been regularly maintained, recently installed new brakes, had rear caliper resealed and installed a new rear tire.

Brief History - had stator rebuilt last august (2001), all seats including drivers back rest have been recovered and also have gel installed for extra comfort, installed new clutch slave cylinder last July

Reason for selling - time for a change.

Suzuki 1986 Cavalcade LXE Blue on Blue Price $3,800 approx. 36,000 miles. Everything works Danny Ringer 254-982-3450 (Outside of Temple, Texas) Reason for selling: He drives it 7 miles to work and says it is too big for short rides and is looking for something smaller.


It's 10:00 p.m., and we just got home ... Boy that warm shower felt great after 517 miles, in 16 hours. The day was super, a bit of a chill in the AM, But, after a great breakfast a Matins in Great Barrington, it warmed up nicely. The only tech trouble we had, was Bob Lausha on his 1500 Gold Wing lost a side cover on Rt. 91 ... He went back and got it while we waited for him at the VT/NH state line. We told him he had a Harley with Honda Emblems since parts were falling off of it. I had submitted a message to the Pacific Coast eGroup, and we had 3 Pacific Coast motorcycles on the ride. It was really nice not going through Boston. Route 8A in VT is always a blast. The seafood platter and clam chowder at Sun & Surf in Maine just melted in my mouth. As soon as I get the photos up on the site I will let you all know. Thanks for coming.... Hope to see you on future 7 state rides. Oct will be Mid-Atlantic 7 States. This puppy is tired and going to bed.... good nite all! ~ Paul

Just got back from spending the day at the Holster rally. On the way back I saw a Harley-looking exhaust pipe in the middle of the road. I thought it was strange. Would not someone notice the pitch had suddenly changed? ~ Spike