The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #13 ~ August, 2001

Jay D. Johnson, Editor


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CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri.

Plans include exhibits and displays by suppliers; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises. Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.

You should get your reservation in early. There are only 65 rooms blocked for our group with a special discounted rate. Half of those are already reserved. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Ownerís Group meeting ("CADE RAID 2002") to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a tentative rate of $55.00 per night. They do not expect this to change. However they will not be able to guarantee this rate until September of this year. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer. The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553. Those who wait until the last minute will have a difficult time finding lodging.




Hi Everyone, I'm going to change the way I communicate the changes on Everyone knows that I put a date on the opening page of, letting you know when the last update was. Now, you will find a link under the date, letting you know "What's New This Time?"

What I plan to do is, keep a running list of updates and when they were done. The most recent updates will be at the top of the page, while previous updates will get older as you scroll down the page. It's easier for me to list the updates on the site, while I'm in there working, than it is for me to try to remember what I did and send you an email. I will continue to alert you to the updates, but the emails will not be detailed.
Good riding, Bob Ramsey, Webmaster




Since I bought it, I figure my cavalcade has cost me over a million dollars so far. Reasoning: I bought the Cade in May of 1985, about the time that Harley Davidson went public. I paid about 7100 bucks, including tax, title and tip. Had I instead dropped the pile on HD stock at that time, that stock would today be worth just over 1 millllllion dollars. Now then, of course, in 1985 had a voice come down from the heavens like thunder on a clear day, saying "Spiiiiiike, invest your Cade funds in Harley Daaaavidson." I would have replied "Lord, are you quite certain you are in the same universe as we are?" or something equally blasphemous. So the Cade has cost me about 35 bucks a mile. Itís been worth every penny. ~ Spike


Editorís note: This group LOVES to talk about oil. I have not seen so much interest in oil since Jed Clampett moved his family to Beverly Hills. So, here for the umpteenth month in a row is a section on the subject of the dark and slippery.

I just changed my oil to a 20W-50 semi-synthetic blend and was very pleased with how quite the engine became. Much of the lifter and valve train noise is gone. ~ Bob Jones '86 LX

I thought synthetic oil wasnít good for these Cades. ~ Roy in TX

About the oil thing I see on here. I didn't think synthetic oil was good for the Cade either. Remember guys what you use for oil you also use on your clutch. Two more items come to me that I have heard. 1. If your Cade is fairly high mileage, say 50,000 plus and you have not been using synthetic oil up to now, it is not recommended that you switch over, or so I am told. 2. How are you guys getting by using 20-50 weight oil? The recommended is 10-40 and when I tried 20-50 on a trip that I was making across west Texas in
100-degree weather I thought that 20-50 would be better. Wrong! I didn't get a 100 miles and my top end sounded like jackhammer. Pulled into first service station and went back to 10-40 and in 20 miles all was quiet. Don't know about your Cade but mine hates 20-50 and it has never had it since then. That was at 35, 000 miles and it now has 102,000 and still going strong and quiet. ~ Lane Johnson, Bay City, TX

The switchover to synthetic isn't necessarily mileage based. It's true that synthetic oil is generally lower in measured viscosity as compared to petroleum based oils, however, it's viscosity stays better as the temp increases. Petroleum oils have to start a little higher to maintain viscosity at high operating temps.

The comments that I have heard concerning the switch to synthetic has to do with how much the engine is already burning or leaking. If the motor is consuming and/or leaking oil, why would one use an oil that costs $4 to $6 a quart when it's just going to end up in the exhaust or on the road or the garage floor.

As for the clutch, yes, a switch to synthetic can cause clutch slippage problems. However, any increase in slippage can, in most all cases, be solved with a new set of clutch springs. Preferably after market ones by Barnett. In the absolute worst case, one might change out the clutch discs for after-market ones that are intended to be used with synthetic oils. We have to remember that when these bikes were built, there weren't that many synthetic oils on the market. ~ The switch to 20-50 oil, in my opinion, is mileage based. The reason you had lifter noise problems at 35K miles with the thicker oil is probably due to the inability of the heavier oil to fill the lifters properly (they are hydraulic and have very, very close tolerance parts). There probably wasn't enough wear to allow the longer molecule chains of the 20-50 to properly penetrate into those spaces. What we have to understand is; that the heavier an oil, the longer the molecule chains. Longer chains equal more gap to penetrate. ~ On the other hand, higher mileage motors that do have some wear may benefit from the 20-50 oil. Most of those that have tried it report a quieter top end. This is probably due to the lifters maintaining a better fill because of increased clearance, which the 20-50 can help. There is also going to be a slight increase in oil pressure and the other bearings in the motor may also benefit from a slightly thicker film of oil. ~ The facts remain that most synthetic oils offer superior lubrication, improved shear resistance (good for the gearbox) and viscosity retention at high temps. If you want to make the switch to a synthetic, go ahead and change out the clutch springs to mitigate any potential slippage problem. Hey, they probably should have been changed a long time ago anyway. ~ Tracy

I use Golden Spectro 20w50 blend, as my father did before he gave it to me. It quiets the Cade down and runs cool. Not as cool as with Amsoil, but cool. Amsoil full synthetic, in my opinion, doesn't quiet the bike down enough which makes me think that there is too much friction going on in the engine. Lower noise may mean less friction. ~ Gerry in NY


My auto-leveling system is taking longer to adjust than it did in the past. I remember reading that the fittings get clogged, I believe on the compressor. My question is "which fitting is the one going to the shocks." I plan on taking it apart to check / clean to hopefully solve the problem. Thanks, I know you wonít let me down. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Brian, Page 2-15 of the maintenance section. Also a troubleshooting guide for the level system in section 10, servicing. Also a service diagnosis section in section 9 starting at page 9-69. ~ Tracy

Isnít there an air intake filter on top of the compressor that is covered in the maintenance section? ~ JR


I may be hauling a Cade 500 or so miles and as I have never had to secure a bike for such a trip it seems that I don't have a clue as to the proper way to secure it. Do you try to secure the wheels in place and then strap the bike so that it can't fall over or try to hold it down tight enough so that the suspension can't move much, or both? I'm sure that it is simple. Just want a useable bike when I get home. Thanks ~ Jim

Why don't you just ride the Cade and haul the car with it? ~ Brian

To haul the bike, you must first tie down the front tire; make sure you pull the shocks down as far as you can (this is extremely important) then you can strap the bike down in the rear to keep down lateral movement. ~ Ray

Jim, I assume you are using a full-size pickup or a trailer to haul the bike. Roll the bike into the truck or onto the trailer so that the front tire is securely against either the front of the pickup bed or trailer bed or a wheel stop on the trailer. Using heavy gauge nylon motorcycle tie down straps (available at just about any hardware or farm supply store), hook one end of the straps around the handlebar, or better yet, on a high frame member or the front forks up high. If your straps are long enough, you could actually wrap one end around the top fork plate and hook it securely. The problem with the Cav is all that bodywork. You may have to remove a few little pieces or be extra careful.

Hook the other end of those straps to the front corners of the pickup or trailer bed to a secure location. Sit on the bike, grab the free-end of each strap, and in your most manly voice, grunt like hell as you pull both of the straps while compressing the front forks evenly. You don't have to take them clear down, but put a good compress on them. Tie off the free-ends of the straps around the buckles to prevent any slippage.

A few other things include:
1) Make sure the front tire is well aired and won't leak down during the trip.
2) You can cut some blocks of wood to fit on either side of the front tire to extend to both sides of the bed (prevents the wheel from kicking to the side). This generally isn't required, but helps one drive more comfortably

3) You can put a couple of tie-downs on the back corners for good measure but if the front ones are heavy enough they are mainly for moral support.
4) You can slip the side stand down just in case it wants to lean that direction. DO NOT PUT IT IN THE CENTER STAND!
5) Drive like you have an 800-lb. motorcycle in the back secured with some flimsy nylon straps.
~ Tracy

Everything said so far has been true. Here's one thing of major importance. DO NOT USE CHEAP TIE DOWNS. They do stretch and loosen up after a bit. The heavy 1"ratchet type work fine. I've towed my Cade a ton of miles with no ill effects to the suspension. (Only because camping in a motor home was much
nicer than a tent). I use small cinch type straps over the upper fork tree above the horns and 2 sets of tie downs in the front. One set parallels the front forks and out to the side about 24 inches. The other is at about 90 degrees out and the same distance from the tire. I've found that tying the back down really doesn't matter but I did anyway. Just in front of the saddlebag on the lower chrome bars. If you tie to the handlebars you will mar the edge of the faring and the bars are mounted in rubber, might not
work too well. Good luck and have fun. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau

Be sure that your tie downs donít come close to any paint. The wind will cause the straps to flutter no matter how tight you think they are and the straps will eat paint and plastic. Keep the kickstand up. I bought some straps that look like figure 8s, 1" nylon; I use those for the handlebars and the fork yolk above the horns. I will recheck the ties after a few miles and whenever I stop they tend to loosen sometimes and just checking them makes me feel better. After the awhile youíll stop worrying about your baby tied to a trailer all by herself, your more scared than she is. ~ Roy in TX

I hauled mine on a trailer with a wooden floor. I attached two 2 by 4's 8 ft long, along both sides of the tires and nailed them down. I used the roll bars and any other high location to tie the nylon rope to both sides (100-ft). I also tied the front tire to the trailer frame. I drove 300 miles with a CBX and my Cade on the same trailer. Good luck. ~ Don Dorion, í86, LX, & 1400 Intruder

Thanks to all who give me info on hauling the bike. I think a friend may go along. Weather permitting I may try to ride it home, but I will have the trailer in case. Gee 3 months ago I didn't know what a Cade was ... now I may have 2. Twins at that! ~ Jim


I am getting my son ready for riding with me and was in need of any information regarding children being passengers, such as age restrictions or height, weight restrictions. I am in NJ but will take info from any state as I am sure it will vary. Thanks, ~ John in NJ, '86 two tone blue LXE

John, I don't know about New Jersey law, but from the practical side it depends on the age, size, and disposition of your son. I took my daughter for rides around the block when she was six. We went on day rides together when she was nine. I took my brother-in-law on my nine-day Canadian Rockies tour when he was 13. My daughter and I spent a week on the bike in Yellowstone Park when she was 16. Today she is 37 and has a family. But she still calls me up to ask for a ride on nice days. ~ Proper clothing and helmet are important. Start with short easy rides. Always leave em wanting longer rides next time. Have fun. Enjoy! ~ Jay, Another '86 "Blue On Blue", Sammamish, Washington USA

John, I have looked through NJ and several other state laws about child passengers. The only thing I can find is on differences in helmet law for child in some states. Of course NJ has helmet law for both rider and passenger. ~ Dennis


I think I figured out why my bike's mileage is low. Haven't run a complete tank through, just had my first run today. Over the weekend (raining) I decided to sync the carbs. They were fine (within .5cm) but I tightened it up a bit anyway. While I had bodywork off I decided to check my spark plugs. Turn out that both plugs for the left cylinders (when sitting on bike) were loose! The front was a complete turn loose! ~ I noticed a big improvement in 'lugging' below 2k rpms. Before it was very rough unless I cranked the throttle open. Now I just feel the pulses. It seems strange that it was both plugs on the left side. Odd, I would have expected the right front to maybe be loose due to the difficulty getting in there, but it was fine. ~ Brenden Walker




A special thanks to Walter in Maryland. Your experience with electrical trouble saved me a lot of time and money. Just outside Montreal (Toronto-St John-Toronto) the dash lights started to fade and the mileage got really bad. Just after I noticed this and was headed for the nearest off ramp, she gave up the ghost. It felt like the RR but what can you do in the dark? We got her home in an ambulance (UHAUL) and put her to bed. Read your letter the next day along with the chart from ELECTREX and went at her. Those two black wires in front of the battery looked like they had been through a fire! What a mess! Due to the extra resistance, these wires were also getting really hot. Snipped both ends of the connector off and just maretted them all together. Much better (she runs). I cleaned all other connections that I could get at the time. I can not stress enough how bad these wires were. Haven't had trouble yet? It is worth looking anyway. Should I expect the RR to last a long time if everything else holds out? Someone once wrote that they ride with their high beam on all the time. I do this as well as the regular beam isn't seen far enough ahead. Problem! High beam is too bright when you are in shade or under a bridge. I solved this by dropping the voltage. I checked the voltage on the daytime running lights on my minivan (4V) and so tried to drop the bike the same. I just wired another headlight bulb in series, which has done the trick. Now they can see me and still see the road after I've gone by. I through in a switch so I can bypass this extra bulb for full power at night. Now a problem. When the bike is leveling (up or down), it does not go smoothly. It catches then jerks up or down a bit until enough of a pressure change then jumps or dropped another 1/4 inch. Could this be due to worn rear shocks? 114k kms on them with one trip up the Alaska Highway. Very rough going, she was actually in the air twice. It would appear that the rear wheel does float enough over road bumps but is jerky if I bounce up and down. Help?


I just got back from a trip up the coast and noticed my back tire was down to the fiber, after only 6k miles. It is a Dunlop 404G. Is that specifically a touring tire? I had been running Metzler Marathons. This Dunlop was my third back tire at 22k, so the 'thons were getting 11k. This Dunlop was a smoldering stump after only 6k. Advice? ~ This is all my fault too. I should have known by the designation 404 that it was a bad choice. (In nerdspeak, 404 = stupid. Etymology: error 404, file not found. Example of usage: "My little brother is soooo 404!) ~ Spike

I've had great luck with Dunlop Elite II's. Average 18,000 front & rear. Good in wet weather as well. I think I'm on my 5th or 6th set. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau, "In the Woods" Error! Bookmark not defined., Nekoosa, WI

I ordered a pair of Metzler Marathons today. ~ Spike

Spike, All the wing riders I know use Dunlop Elite II's as an upgrade from the stock Dunlop Elites. They get about 30k. However thatís kilometers here in Canada so it would be about 18k for you in miles. ~ Rick Bates

My dealer is soaking me! I priced a new Dunlop 491 Elite II at $192... On an Internet site they are
charging $127 (not including shipping). Does anyone have experience with dealers not installing tires not
purchased through them? ~ Brian, Ď87 LXE in CT

My dealer install my Elites purchased on the Internet. Cost $50.00 ~ Bob Morris

Call and ask. That is what I did when I had to change tires on my little bike. No problem - charged $15 for mounting, balancing and wheel bearing inspection, although the wheel was off the bike. ~ Tim Knoebel Sr.

My dealer has installed a tire not purchased without any problems. I had purchased an Elite II through eBay, new for $35. Charged another $3 for shipping. Arrived and it was new! ~ Don Dorion

Brian, I have 32,000 on my rear tire and it is bad in the rain. Decided to replace it. Service manager at the local dealership quoted me $150 for the tire and about $60 to install and lube the gears. This is about what they charged me 6 years ago. Dunlop booth at Americade with lube quoted $224 for reference. Does the $192 by any chance include installation? ~ Al from Mass

I got 23,000 miles out of my Dunlop Elite II. I have seen other postings here by others with the same kind of mileage. So I replaced my tires recently with the same. I ordered new tires mail order from Chaparral, and bought both front and rear tires for $216.00 (or near that). I found that some dealer shops will not install the tires, but others will. My local Honda Suzuki shop put the new tires on, as I took the wheels off, and took them to the dealer. They just mounted the tires for me. And I put the wheels back on the bike. ~ Peter Linden

Well, I think I know what the problems are:

1) Mechanic thinks my vibration problem is tire related

2) The high price was for a high-speed-rated tire.

I found that the Avon Venom X was about $135 (plus installation) in 150-90V15. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

I don't have a Cavalcade yet (gs1100gk) but here in Colorado is a tire place,, which ships and has wonderful customer service and some of the best prices. They are one of the best places I have ever dealt with. ~ Joe in CO


Help...could any body in the Cav club find me a part number for my GV1400GT /6 chassis no JSI VX71A362102 1985 MODEL. Itís for a repair kit for my rear brake caliper, which includes piston, and rubber seals, and also for the front as well .its hard finding part numbers in the UK. Help would be appreciated. Thanks ~ Glen Kemp.


The parts microfiche that I have does not cover the GT and the frame # doesn't correspond to those for the '86 and later models. You can order the parts microfiche from Error! Bookmark not defined. and other sources on the net. There is also many parts sellers that will look them up for you (and they would like to sell you the parts as well), one of those is Error! Bookmark not defined.

You could always just call a dealer close to you. There is a list of UK dealers at Error! Bookmark not defined.. There is also a UK dedicated bike site at Error! Bookmark not defined. ~ Tracy


We are in the process of having floorboards made at this time. M/C Accessories received the sacrifice set around Aug 1 and estimates about 2 months till order is ready. There were about 30 pre-sold and M/C says they will go 5 over for stock. The cost is $250 plus shipping. As soon as we hear from M/C, we'll pass the word to the group. Please don't go "FLOORBOARD" wild on these guys. Bob Ramsey has gone through considerable trouble and correspondence with this company, so PLEASE, work with and through Bob. Thanx ~ KennG



Well the Cade has me scratching my head again. Had a front end vibration (through the bars) when applying front brakes. I replaced rotors and brake pads on the front end of the bike over the weekend. Last night I made the maiden voyage with the new gear and she still shakes through the bars when applying the front brake (happy I threw money away on the rotors). A soft squeeze of the brake is no problem, however; grab a hand full and she vibrates pretty good. The bearings in the steering stem feel good? Bike is very smooth when just driving - Any thoughts? Thanks, ~ Dave 86 LXE

Dave, Vibration is one thing; the shakes are something else. A vibration could have very well come from the brakes but it's unlikely that faulty brake parts would induce shaking. See, since both of the rotors ride on a common axis, even if one failed completely and wasn't providing any braking at all, it's not going to pull the wheel to the side. There are a lot of bikes with a single disc up front. The shakes can be caused by a number of things. Steering head bearings are one of those. The only way to really check them is to take the weight off of the front tire and give the front end a good shaking around to see how loose things are. Also, soft springs, a loose fork brace, loose triple clamps, loose axle nut, bad tire, bent rim, loose wheel bearings, worn slider sleeve bearings, bad or missing fork fluid, unusual weight transfer to the front end or the ass-end of the bike being too high, too much weight and low tire pressure, just to name a few. I suppose that a looseness problem in the rear end (swingarm, wheel, shocks etc.) could also contribute. ~ Tracy

Holy Cripes Batman! - That's a big list! Tracy, the bike behaves very well under all conditions except hard front braking. I also just put on two new tires, so that rules out one of the options on your list. I had the bike up on a stand when replacing the tires and gave the forks a couple of tugs to check steering bearings and they appeared to be ok? The shakes don't come through the bike, just the bars. The bars will (bounce?) up and down under hard braking. I don't believe the forks/front end are bouncing (just the bars). Thanks for your ideas, ~ Dave

Dave, Well, is that new front tire running true? Have you spun it and checked to see it there is any significant run out either in the vertical or horizontal plane? Probably a long shot but everything new isn't perfect, especially the installation. Also, did the shakes start right after you had the tires put on? Also, you've now changed your description of the problem from the shakes to a bounce. Please, MAKE UP YOUR MIND! If it's just the bars, then maybe your rubber mounts (in the top triple clamp) are worn out. You say it's not the forks/front end, but the bars are directly connected to the top half of the forks. Unless it's the rubber bar mounts, then the upper half of the fork must also be making the same undulating movement (I've changed to undulating movement since I really don't know which direction it is, up and down or side to side). I'll have to think about it a little more. Maybe one of the other members has experienced the same problem and has an answer. In the meantime, you can check for loose bolts and nuts easily enough. It would be a shame if the tire mechanic failed to tighten something important. ~ Tracy

Tracy, with the faring mounted it's kind of hard to see the forks but it makes sense that they would be moving. I'm going to try and have someone ride next to me and watch the front end to tell me what it's doing. The bike had very similar problem prior to the new tire/rotor/brakes. Thought for sure it was warped rotors, but it appears it is something else. It's a very similar feeling to when your car's rotors are warped. Wish I could explain it better, but you're right - it's probably not the shakes since it doesn't come through the whole bike. Again, thanks for the advice... ~ Dave

You need to re-bleed the front brakes again. You have air in one side. ~ Hank

Hank, the lever feels strong and isn't soft/spongy when applying the brakes. With a strong lever could I still have air in the system? How does the air make it vibrate? Someone else also mentioned the same thing. I just thought if there was air in the line/caliper, the lever would feel soft. Thanks, ~ Dave

Did you have the tires balanced also are all the mold nubbies worn off the tire yet? ~ Tom

Time to try a Super Brace. I had the same symptoms on my bike went to Super Brace and like magic its gone! ~ Naaji


An under-inflated new tire might act up like this under hard braking since the load would be thrown onto the front tire. Check your pressure. ~ Spike

Could be the forks are out of alignment or the break caliper is not centered correctly. Does the slider for break pads/caliper move freely? ~ BobL

Bob, what do you mean by slider? I just put on new front brakes and cleaned the pins that the pads slide on - shouldn't be a problem there? Also if forks weren't aligned wouldn't I feel this when driving the bike even when not applying the brakes? ~ Dave

Dave, Sliders are typical of floating calipers, the Cav doesn't have those so you don't need to worry about that. If the forks weren't aligned, you might see that the handlebars are cocked a little (or a lot depending on how severe) to one side while driving in a straight line. If they were out of alignment, one wouldn't think that it would cause any problems since it is nothing more than the position of the fork uppers in the triple clamps. Easy enough to fix, though. Might as well check it. ~ Tracy

Sure sounds like a warped rotor. Even new ones could be warped. I've had it happen many times on cars. ~ Tom

Two very important things on disc brakes. When mounting the rotors, be sure to tighten the bolts evenly, Cross hatch pattern. Were the mounting flanges clean? If you have access to a dial indicator, check for run out on the rotors. If you don't have a dial indicator at least spin the wheel by hand and slightly apply front brake to see if it has high spots. The second thing is that you should always clean the pads and rotors with brake clean to remove any grim, dirt, etc. when installing. If there was metal protector on the new rotors, it will cause glazing, which will give these types of symptoms. ~ Jerry, í86 LX Wisc.

Did you torque the caliper bolts? ~ Spike

Sure did, cross tightened also. ~ Dave

Dave, The break caliper/holder should have two pins, not the ones that hold the brake pads. They have two rubber boots and allow the pad/holder to float in and out they usually freeze up. Add a little grease on the pins. Also I had seen if one fork tube was just a little off it caused this. ~ BobL

Dave, is the shaking frequency speed-dependent? Get hauling arse, hit the brakes, and see if the frequency changes with your speed. If so, it must be something wrong with your disks. If not, itís some kind of resonance. Dave Iím really irritated with myself for not thinking of it sooner. ~ Spike


The Cade developed a worrying vibration. In 5th gear at about 65mph, the vibration would come and go about every 5 seconds, regardless of the road texture. When I drop a gear, the vibration frequency is about the same but the pulses are much faster and much close together. If I pull the clutch in, it goes away. Any thoughts? My first instinct is it may be the U-joint... ~ Brian, Ď87 LXE in CT

Or engine mounts, fork crown bolts. ~ Gerry in NY

You are right on target Brian; my bike did the same when the U-joint went out. ~ David Thomas

Hey guys: My mechanic tells me the vibration I have been experiencing may in fact be the tire - it looks a little cupped... I hope it's at least that and not the driveshaft. ~ Brian Ď87LXE in CT



Still having the same problem, can you give me a couple of targets to look for to tap on? I have taped here and there and on top of the carb rim under the air filter and nothing has changed. Maybe I need a bigger hammer? ~ Roy

Take 'em off and give a good going over. If tapping hasn't done the job, then the floats could be stuck or the needles/seats are in need of cleaning/conditioning. I know it's a distasteful proposition, but there may not be any other solution. ~ Tracy

Roy, Did you drain the fuel out of those two carb float bowls first? The floats would hold the needle valve in its seat. I have another idea if you did drain the bowl and still couldnít get that valve unstuck. Try attaching a plastic hose onto the float bowl drain and sending carb cleaner through it. Or better yet, take the fuel line loose and put some carb cleaner in the fuel line, so that the fuel is delivered to the stuck needle valve. Yea, try that next. And you might try tapping lightly with a hammer on the top of the carb, but of course not so hard it leaves marks on the carb. ~ Spike


I just tore about my bike to replace the exhaust system. Stupid me, I tried to remove the un-removable gas tank! In doing so I removed the fuel lines, after reassembling the bike I was stupid again! It wouldn't start so I poured a little bit of gas into the carbs to get it started. I figured I needed to get the gas sucked through the lines. All I really needed to do was plug the fuel pump back in (consider this my stupid week) Now the bike starts right up but I get fuel shooting straight up in the air in a steady stream from carb number 1. Please advise. Thank You! ~ George


I am would like to rebuild my carburetors. Are rebuild kits easy to find? Where might I find a kit? Doeís anyone have a dealer who can get kits? Are the stock rubbers compatible with gasoline with alcohol that is put in gas in some areas? Anyone who can give me any information on rebuilding carbs, please fill me in. Thanks ~ Rick Barclay

I don't know if there's a rebuild kit available, but. Generally speaking, modern CV carbs use gaskets that are reusable for many teardowns. What I'd suggest is that you take your carbs apart, inspect the diaphragm and gaskets and determine if any specific items need to be replaced. As for the alcohol, it can cause the gaskets to expand a bit but I've never heard of any serious problems. I have found that diaphragms tend to be difficult to get properly seated if they've been recently exposed to gas-a-hol. Let them dry out and it's much easier. ~ Brenden


Help... I foolishly let the Cade sit for 3 months went to start and looks like a float or floats are stuck. I striped the bike down but can't seem to figure out how to drain the carbs (fuel line being higher than the bowls) or how to get that rubber air cleaner holder off. My need for the stress relief of the open road is very great at the moment. Thanks ~ Ray on the Texas Gulf Coast, Ď86 GT

Ray, Each carb has its own hex head drain plug at the bottom of the bowl. Probably a pain in the ass to get to, but would affect drainage. ~ Tracy

Don't know how much help I can be but I'll try. The air filter on mine has two wing nuts that you just unscrew and pull the top (rubber) piece off, pull it straight up so it doesnít bind on the bolts. And thatís it. The carb drains I hunted for about a week and with Spikes help I finally found them. They are on the inside at the bottom of the carbs. You have to look at them at an angle (look from the front to see the back and so forth) to see them you will see a small Phillip head screw the drain. Itís a short tube that drains to the inside. I hope that helps I know it as hard for me to find those little things. ~ Good luck, ~ Roy in TX

A good way to insure against those floats sticking is to get in the habit of adding 4 oz. of MARVEL MYSTERY oil to the gas tank on the next fill up, and to continue to do so about every 1500 to 2000 miles. It will keep the carb insides lubed keep the gas from going bad, keep the slides lubed, believe me it works Weíve had this discussion before but maybe some of the new members didn't get in on it. If not you can check the archives, or go to SuzukiCavalcade web site, and check out past news letters. Nice pictures of BOTH runs (Canadian Rockies & Wis. Cade Raid). ~ Walter n Maryland


I have the right side cover off the engine to change the clutch springs, and have noticed the drive chain for the water pump appears to be very slack. I didn't see an obvious method to adjust this chain and there was nothing in the manual about it either. There was no mention made of what the slack limits are for this chain. ~ I didn't find any references in the archives to problems with this chain, only the seals and bearings. Anyone have experience with this? ~ Chuck

Page 10-38 of the service manual. It says the service limit for the water pump chain is 64.5mm (2.54 in). It doesn't say, however, what that dimension is. One could assume that it is the distance between the two sides of the chain when pulled together in the middle with your fingers. ~ Tracy

Slack is normal in that chain. Mine bike has 24.000 miles on it and the chain is loose. There is no adjustment for it. The guides keep it from coming off. Just put it to the wood and go! ~ Tom

Mine had some slack, too. Initially I was bothered by it, but it seemed OK and there was not much play in the sprockets (turning independently) so I chalked it up as 'normal'. ~ Brian, í87 LXE in CT

After doing some research about the service limit of the water pump chain, I learn you measure across 10 pins of the chain when pulled tight. If it measures more than 2.54 in. it is stretched and need's to be replaced. An example of how to measure a chain can be found in sec.3 pg. 37 ~ Tom, Travelers Rest, SC

Good call, Tom. It's actually 21 pins, though (10 links). ~ Tracy


After weeks of work, taking off and putting back on the faring, tracing wires I have finally found my culprit. Of course itís the clutch switch. It's making positive contact but still is not working properly. What a rush, cruising along with the cruise control set. Any suggestion as to where I should order the part from? Thx, ~ J.D., TX CADE LX

Hi JD, You can still get this switch from any Suzuki dealer for about $12.00 (U.S.). Also, unless you just want to take your faring back off, there's an easy way to replace that switch, without chasing the end of the wire into the faring. Once you get the new switch, it will have long wires on it with a plug on the end. Cut the plug off (leave the wires long), then cut the clutch switch wire on your bike. Match your wire colors; tape the connections, install the new switch and you're back in business. Be sure to cut the wire so the
connection can be hidden in the faring. I won't hurt to cut the wire too long, because you can tuck the excess in the faring. ~ On the other hand, it sounds like you have a lot of experience taking off your faring. My way will take about 15 minutes, but with your experience in taking off the faring, you could probably do that and beat my time. (Smile) Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida


Somewhere I saw a posting about getting the cruise control to work in 4th gear for trailering and hack work. I've checked the archives however I can't find it, does anybody have any info on this.

Thanks ~ Phil 


Don't know if you can help me or not. I replaced 8 bent exhaust valves (happen in a wreck). I can not get
it in time. I followed the book. I have all the lines and dots lined up like you are suppose to. But it keeps backfiring through the exhaust. Is it possible to ignore the timing marks and time it by the intake, comp. exhaust stroke? Could you help me? ~ Ryan King

Are you sure that you have the coils connected properly and to the correct cylinders? Do not ignore the timing marks. They are your only guides as to the proper position. Are the cams in the correct position (front and rear)? Did you count the chain pins correctly and double-check your count? ~ It could be a lot of things, including carburation (not getting enough gas). Before you go tracing down other things you need to be absolutely sure of the cam drive system timing. ~ Tracy

Tracy, I checked everything you said. With the timing set with the marks, the lobe on the camshaft for no.1 cylinder is straight up. It is suppose to be opening intake valve on no.1 cylinder. Thanks ~ Ryan

Ryan, I have looked over the entire section on camshaft timing and would offer the following.
Normally (not just on the Cav but on about every engine made) the timing (cams and ignition) is based on the position of the no. 1 cylinder. TDC (top dead center) is the typical position used to reference both the camshafts and the ignition timing. The TDC position is the point at which the no.1 cylinder is in the firing position. Both valves are closed and the no. 1 spark plug is sparking (yeah, I know, the ignition timing is almost always advanced a little to compensate for flame propagation but for this example we will assume that the ignition is firing at TDC). ~ You state that when everything lines up the no. 1 intake lobe is pointing up indicating that the valve is closed. Also, at that same time, the exhaust valve should be closed and when the cam is turning in its normal direction. The exhaust valve will be the first one to open after the piston travels to BDC (bottom dead center). Yeah, I know it isnít always exactly BDC but for
this example we will assume it is BDC. ~ As the piston travels back up the bore after the power stroke, the exhaust valve is open until just before the piston gets to TDC when it will start to close and at the same time the intake will start to open. Both of these events happen at the same time and by the time the piston gets to TDC the intake should nearly be all the way open. The time that each of the valves spends open at the same time is referred to as overlap. ~ If the intake were to start to open when the piston was at TDC (as you indicate), then it would be too late. The intake valve must open before the piston gets to TDC on the exhaust stroke to affect more complete purging of the exhaust gases (some of the intake charge is used to cleanse the chamber). If the intake waited until TDC to start to open, the piston would be nearly halfway back down the bore before the valve got completely open and the intake charge would be insufficient. ~ So, when the no. 1 piston is at TDC: 1) the intake and exhaust valves are both closed, 2) The no. 1 coil is firing. The next event after no. 1 TDC is the opening of the no. 1 exhaust valve (about no. 1 BDC). The next event is the simultaneous closing of the no. 1 exhaust and opening of the no. 1 intake (near no. 1 TDC, again). Now, remember that the cams turn at half the speed of the crankshaft so there are two separate no. 1 TDC events. ~ When setting the camshaft timing, though, everything should be in the power (or firing position). ~ Also, the spark plug for each cylinder fires twice for each power cycle. Since the ignition sensors run at crankshaft speed, the spark plugs fire on the power stroke and on the other TDC position (both valves open). ~ I hope some of this helps. I didn't mean to be long-winded or oversimplify anything. ~ Tracy

Ryan, there is something seriously amiss in your description of the problem. If a wreck caused 8 bent exhaust valves, it sounds to me like that engine is toast. Also, the backfiring is not a function of *exhaust* valve timing. Sounds like there is unburned charge getting into the exhaust pipes then getting ignited. Please describe the wreck and what happened to cause the exhaust valves to get bent. ~ Spike

Don't forget a 4-stroke motor goes through two complete rotations of the crankshaft, with the #1 piston reaching top dead center twice, for each power stroke. The cam turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank. So I believe it would be possible, correct me if I'm wrong, to have the cam mark at the firing position and the piston & valves at the end of the exhaust & the beginning of the intake stroke. But, I don't understand how a wreck caused the bent valves. ~ Roy '86 LX from MD

Roy, Yes, during a complete power cycle (not stroke as you have noted), the piston does complete two distinct TDCs (as far as the cams are concerned). However, when the piston is at TDC, is doesn't know (nor care) where the valves (and cams) are. At TDC the piston is always in the same location and the mark on the crankshaft is always in the same place. ~ The piston position is independent of the camshaft (and valves) position given that the camshaft is separate and driven from gears and a chain. ~ When the marks are lined up per the diagram, and the piston is as TDC, it should the firing (compression) position. ~ I don't know how a wreck caused the bent valves unless the valve cover and/or head got smashed real good. ~ Tracy

I was told the bike was hit from the front. If you look at it, it was the forks are straight up and down, the frame is buckled a little by the gas tank. What happen is the timing jumped causing the exhaust valves to bend. ~ Ryan

HI RYAN, Hopefully you have the problem solved by now. If not, I'd like to mention a few items to check out if you havenít. Check all related parts to the exhaust valves for damage. The cam, lash adjusters, valve seats. The lash adjusters may need bleeding. As stated, don't attempt to time it by any method other than the repair manual. It's important to start with the crank gear and idler and keep these gear from moving during the timing process (also on the front cylinder). You count pins from ex. Cam to in. and on rear cylinder, from intake to exhaust. What you are attempting is quite a job. I know you will master it. It's the kind of work I still enjoy doing. I'd like to be there to help or just watch. ~ LU MD.

Ryan, Iím guessing that any impact big enough to cause the timing chain to jump a tooth would be enough to ruin the engine. Hate to be the barer of bad news, but my guess is she wont run right after this. ~ Spike

This is Ryan again, the one that had the Cade out of time. Well it is in time but still wont run; all I get is backfiring through the exhaust. If anyone can help I would appreciate it. You were very helpful all of you. Especially I think it was Tracy. Thanks ~ Ryan

If the cam timing is proper, then the only things left are spark, air and fuel, at the right time and in the right amounts. ~ I would check that the ignition timing is right with a timing light. Just to make sure you have the igniters and coils hooked up right. Remember, the spark plug is going to fire on TDC when both valves are closed (to ignite for the power stroke), and again at TDC when both valves are open (overlap preparing for intake stroke). If you are backfiring through the exhaust, one might conclude that you have either the triggers, igniters or coils hooked up incorrectly. And the spark plug is firing at the bottom of the power stroke just as the piston is coming up for the exhaust stroke and again at the bottom of the intake stroke. That would explain the pop through the exhaust and no run. There is also some real basic stuff that you should check. ~ Is the fuel fresh? Has it been sitting either in the tank or in the fuel bowls for an extended period? If so, get it drained out and get some fresh fuel in. Are the spark plugs good? Are they gapped properly? I know these may sound too basic to be of value but old fuel will act funny and if you have fouled plugs the same thing applies. Is there any fuel getting into the cylinders? You can check this by disconnecting the spark plug wires from the plugs (all of them preferably), stick any old plugs in the wires and lay them so they will ground and spark. This prevents the buildup of juice in the igniters and coils from doing any damage. ~ With the now non-sparking plugs in the cylinders, turn it over a few times and then stop and take all of the plugs out. They should all be wet with gas. If they are dry, you may have a fuel delivery problem that starts at the petcock through the fuel pump and filter through the floats and finally through the jets. Depending on how long the bike sat not running, the system could be a little gunked up, especially the carbs. ~ If you think that you may have a fuel problem, you can do the following USING EXTREME CAUTION! Have a fire extinguisher on hand before attempting this. Put the plugs back in a hook them up. Put some fresh gas in a squirt bottle or oilcan or whatever. With the lid and filter off the air box, squirt a small amount of fuel into each carb throat. Get your face and the container of gas away from the filter opening and try to start it. You may have to work the throttle a little while you run the starter motor. If it wants to take off and run, even if only for a few seconds (or even a few revolutions), then the problem is probably fuel delivery. If it doesn't try to take off, squirt a little more fuel in the throats. At some point you will either decide it is doing the same thing as before or it catches and tries to run, or you flood the piss out of it and you have to let it sit for a while to clean out. ~ Beyond that, I can't be of much more help. The important thing is to remember the basics: fuel, air, and spark. Be sure to have all at the right time and in the right amounts. ~ Tracy

One thing I did when I had my '92 GSX1100G was to get two of the spark plug wires crossed and onto the wrong plugs. This will cause similar acting problems. ~ Tim, '86 XL

You said to check with timing light. Well how do I do this, I know you connect it to no.1 but where are my marks to go by or how do I see if it is firing at the correct time. I am pretty sure I have all hooked up right. (Igniter, coils, what is the trigger). Getting gas, new gas, new plugs, fuel getting into cylinders (plugs wet). ~ Compression runs from no.1-155, no.2-160, no.3-155, no.4-165. Plug wires been check so many times I can do it in my sleep. Igniter checked to be ok. ~ Ryan

The triggers are in with the stator (left side of motor under cover). The main thing to be concerned with is that the outputs of the triggers are connected to the right inputs of the igniters and that the outputs of the igniters are connected to the right coils. ~ Since there are no marks exposed now, you will need to take out no. 1 plug and use the old finger over the spark plug hole method to determine if the plug is firing at TDC or BDC. If the plug fires when there is pressure, then it's right. If it fires when there is vacuum, it's wrong.

You probably wouldn't even need the timing light, just lay the plug on something to ground it. Turn the motor over and watch the spark. If it sparks when there is pressure, there's no reason why it shouldn't run. If it sparks at any other time, there may be a connection problem. ~ You could also insert a small wooden dowel (maybe 1/4" or so) into the spark plug hole as an indicator of piston position. Be careful with that, though, you don't want to break it off in there. ~ Tracy

Ryan, Don't know how far you have the bike together but I was replacing the intake o-rings and when I started the bike it backfired and ran like it was 30 degrees slow on timing. Thought that one or more of the rings fell out so I took it apart again. Turns out that it won't run right without the air filter installed. Keep in mind that my bike is strange (it eats rags) ~ Jim

This is Ryan the bike finally runs. All I have to do is put it all back together. Thanks to all. I found two broken wires that was not allowing it to spark at the right time. Tracy you were a lot of help if it wasnít you telling me what you did in the last e-mail, I probably wouldnít of got it. ~ Ryan


Okay, I thought I'd paid close attention when everyone was talking about how to drain your clutch. I went to like a good boy and read the maintenance section for it, too. At first I was having pretty good success at flushing it normally--i.e. Using the clutch handle and draining down through the bleeder. All of a sudden, when the fluid was low, I heard a little sucking sound as the reservoir emptied the last amount of fluid without warning. After that, I wasn't able to get any fluid to drain from the reservoir. I then went to the store, bought an oilcan, filled it with DOT4 and started forcing fluid through the system backwards. Worked great, I thought. Reservoir filled up nicely. However, the clutch lever is still too easy to pull and the clutch won't disengage fully. Any suggestions? ~ HeyJerr

Bleed the air my friend. Bleed the air! You should have kept putting clean fluid in the reservoir as you were pumping it out. If you never let the reservoir dry up, it generally doesn't get any air in it. Pull the clutch handle all the way to the grip and hold it there. Open the bleeder valve for a few seconds and then close it. Release the clutch lever and then pull it back to the bar and hold it again. Open the bleeder for a few seconds then close it. Repeat this procedure and, eventually, you will get the air out and fluid will start to come from the bleeder. When the fluid coming from the bleeder doesn't contain any bubbles, and the handle feels like it should, you have completed your training, Grasshopper. REMEMBER THIS, THOUGH! IMPORTANT! Keep the fluid level in the reservoir HIGH ENOUGH TO PREVENT SUCKING AIR INTO THE SYSTEM! ~ Tracy

And don't squeeze the clutch lever too fast. It will squirt out the top of the reservoir. ~ Ray

HeyJerr, Even if you sent the fluid in from the bottom, you still need to attach a tube to the bleeder at the slave cylinder and hold the tube vertically so that the end of the tube is higher than the reservoir. Then pump gently a few times. Sending the fluid up from the bottom prevents air in the lines above the slave cylinder but there is evidently still some air in the slave cylinder itself and I would betcha it is right at the bleeder valve. Bring her over and Iíll show ya. ~ Spike


Well I thought I had the dreaded transfer case oil leak and was planning to replace the seals this winter but, There now does not seem to be a leak from the transfer case. I drained and refilled the transfer case with fresh oil and have since ridden about 800 miles. I did find a couple of drops of oil under the transfer case area but they are not coming from the transfer case and appear to be engine oil but I may be mistaken about that one. I will have to give the oil the smell test. I have not checked the oil level in the rear drive for about 10k miles so if it is gear oil, it may be getting past the rear drive seal and leaking out somewhere, if it is gear oil on the ground. If I need to do any repairs, I have Tracy's excellent CD to help me along the way. I will let the group know what I find under the bike sometime today. ~ Mike


I've found a leak somewhere in my reservoir system. The upper tank appears OK, and I've managed to remove the nuts holding the lower tank, only after removing the battery box on the right side. However, my question is "How does one get to the lower tank?" What do I have to remove to get the radiator hose and to get the tank out for repair? ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Andy, Just keep taking stuff off from around it until it will slide out. ~ Tracy

I just replaced my lower reservoir. The only way at it is actually from both sides after fairing removal
compressor removal and radiator loosening. The leak is probably not the hose connection but a split seam on the reservoir, which is still available from Suzuki. I think I paid $23.00. I'd advise that you read the shop manual on refilling the coolant system and also replace all your hoses considering your in that deep
good luck any further questions please email me direct ~ Mike, Error! Bookmark not defined.

The radiator has to come out but the battery box can stay in place. The reservoir comes out on the left side. I'm on my 3rd one. After removing the radiator, you can file out a notch in the upper fairing (the notch will be covered by the lowers) that will allow you to remove the radiator cap without difficulty in the future. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau, "In the Woods" Error! Bookmark not defined., Nekoosa, WI


I've got a leaker, just wondering if there are any options other than Progressive? I plan on keeping the air system because I love automatic pre-load setting. ~ Brenden Walker, DRB Systems Inc.


What explains the passenger having full volume almost all of the time?

The printed schematic doesn't have a value. If the pot is still serviceable you may be able to check it with an ohmmeter. You may also try to clean the potentiometer with electronic cleaner if it is crackling. If the pot has 3 terminals two of them will show the total resistance and the 3rd is the tap, it will show the increments. A step pot will vary in increments that are constant numbers being the same values.

If you had the potentiometer out, it may be the wiring is wrong. On my schematic the green w/blue tracer goes to the tap side, green w/black tracer goes to the resistor feed, and green w/red tracer goes to the resistor return. The schematic isn't all that great with this area. Try it and see. If the volume is scratchy and goes very high then low again, the internal contact of the potentiometer is dirty. In order to clean it thoroughly you may need to drill a small hole in the metal case, if the pot it sealed entirely, and then use contact cleaned (brake cleaner works too). ~ Don Dorion, Ď86 LX, 1400 Intruder


I need to get a helmet with the head set and microphone. I can't use my CB radio because I don't have the original helmet. Does anybody know how can I get one? ~ Tony in LA

You can buy the helmet of your choice and then buy the headset and install it in the helmet yourself. Or you can buy the helmet with headset already installed also. Any headset for a GoldWing will work I believe. I got mine from Error! Bookmark not defined. for $115 per headset I think. A lot of people say to use Error! Bookmark not defined.. They have the helmets with headsets installed, if I remember correctly. I hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Sierra Electronics in Ohio Sells headset/ microphone sets Part number HS-8134-OF (OF stands for OPEN FACE helmet). They come with the proper plug to plug onto the Cade Cord with an extension to the helmet which allows you to unplug the helmet and leave the LONG cord on the bike convenient for refueling or that quick soda. Microphone clamps to helmet, ear phones are fastened into helmet with VELCRO pads. Wires are tucked in under around back/side of using Popsicle stick. Work real well. Nancy where's your plug for sierra? You might want to check with Sierra, as they are Constantly UPGRADING their products. I THINK you can reach them @ The kits are manufactured by J&M Audio Products. I think they were $110.00 through SIERRA. ~ Walter Ďn Maryland

You don't need an original hat. All you need to do is decide if you want full or open face, then write or call J and M Corp. in Tucson, AZ. They supplied Suzuki with the clarion components for their dealers.

The actual address is as follows

J & M corporation

1415 S. Cherry Avenue

Tucson Arizona 85713-1997


You can still get helmet speakers mike and jumper wiring. Just tell them the radio numbers from the bottom of your radio. Then tell them open or closed face. ~ JR

Frank, Under the center covers... tank... on the left side. Sitting in bike you will find connections for front headset, rear headset and CB. Extensions can be bought for these to go to the driver and passenger from Sierra I know. It should be available for Cade through where ever you get the headsets. Extensions must go from 6 pin to 5 pin. ~ Dennis Vanill

Helmet headsets can be ordered through:
Sierra Electronics
2080 experiment farm road
troy, Ohio 45373
phone # (937) 335-8939 (Diana)

The part number is J&M hs-8134-OF (OF is for open face). This kit is to install speakers and microphone on a standard open face helmet. It has the 5pin extension cord from the existing cord in the holders (of the bike) to a plug on the helmet mike mount that allows you to unplug the helmet from the bike cord for that quick coffee or gas stop. I ordered two of these 1 year ago. I called J&M personally they wanted to know if I were a dealer (no) quoted me a price. I them called sierra and they quoted me a price cheaper than J&M so I ordered them from sierra. You might want to call ahead and get the latest scoop and part numbers as J&M is always upgrading and changing. If you want to call J&M personally their phone number is 1-800-358-0881 their web site Error! Bookmark not defined. their address is 1415 S. Cherry Avenue, Tucson, Arizona. Gentlemen this is all the research I can do on this topic. I hope it is a big help to someone. Nancy where are you girl would you tell"em about sierra they just wonít listen to me. Now I need ya youíre off someplace. ~ Walter

You have to check out Air Rider headsets before you buy a J&M, Call or e-mail me off list for prices check out their site then contact me you will not be disappointed. Error! Bookmark not defined. ~ Michael D. White,
White's Motorcycles Inc.


Has anyone had the experience of replacing the rear volume control? I just recently purchased JM headsets from Sierra and when connected the rear set are on max volume and I get no response from the volume pot - in fact I get no resistance change when probing with my DVOM. If anyone knows where to get a replacement part I would really appreciate that info. ~ Gary Corley in Georgia

I had the same problem. The wipers on the pot were dirty and not applying enough pressure. I had to grind off one end of the rivets that hold the pot together to get it apart. Works fine now. I did try to find a replacement but it's a small pot with a full size post. ~ Brenden

I didn't bother trying to fix the rear volume control. I went to Road Rider and bought a plug-in volume control (in line) for $40. No muss, no fuss! ~ Jerr

Thanks for the tip - I found the in line volume control @ Sierra Electronics for $34.00 ~ Gary in Georgia


Does anyone have any knowledge if the 1986 LXE wiring harness was pre-wired for the installation of a CB? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, ~ Mike

As far as I know (which isnít a lot) all Cades were pre wired for everything and anything the trick is finding the plugs. They will be under and around the radio. You'll have to take the fake gas tank off to see them and you'll have to dig and pull to find them. But, I'd bet they are in there somewhere. ~ Roy in TX

From looking at the CB installation guide, it appears that the unit plugs into existing wiring with the exception of the additional wires needed specifically for the operation of the CB, (which come with it).

There is also a remote control kit for the CB and a headset wiring set that is optional as well. ~ Tracy

Hey mike, I just installed a factory CB unit to my 86 LXE. It took about 16hours to take apart most of the bike and install everything that comes with the CB including transceiver unit, channel selector with squelch knobs, window for channel being used and push to talk switch, plus we got a passenger remote unit also. I have not matched the radio with the antennae yet but the radio works great. There was no new wiring to do, not even for power. It all hooks up to existing wiring harness and to the clarion radio. With the radio on and the intercom, you can use the outside speakers or the headsets and when speaking or hearing others on your channel the radio mutes out music or intercom. I use it with my group of blue knights and about a dozen bikes riding two up. It makes a long ride more pleasurable and is great when riding in a group with a road captain giving directions. ~ Larry from Kingston



I'm not familiar with the fuse of Cavalcade, and probably the right answer already got to you. But with one Honda have a similar problem, as I'm electrician think no problem. But all my troubleshooting get back to main fuse, in this case a piece of metal and off course intact with optical research, and ohmmeter. (And the lights work to begin). Anyhow my ego was low ask around at work and finally get the solution from a friend. This main fuse plate is damaged you can't see it or measure it because it just when the ampere rise damage is appear and just went out. Hopefully this experience could help someone. ~ Micael


Well, my regulator/rectifier went out the other day. So I went to the local Suzuki shop and they want $243 for a new one. So what is the advice of the group. Should I buy Suzuki? Or Electrx? Or other suggestions? I found one message in the maintenance section of the web site that did not recommend the one from Rick for $99. Anyone have any thoughts? ~ Peter Linden

I bought one from Electrex and it's working fine (only had it for 3 months or so). They were out of the Cade RR's, but he gave me the wiring changes necessary to convert a GoldWing RR and I bought one of those (same price). ~ Brenden

I have had 2 from Rick's, both went up in smoke. This causes the 30-amp breaker to trip and kills the bike. I am now trying an Electrix and the regulation is very good. I can not comment on the durability yet. ~ Bob Jones '86 LX

Hi Peter, I've had good luck from the warehouses. I paid under a $100 for mine. You might try 1-800-438-7921. That's the number for one of them. There used to be two advertising in the back of Rider Magazine. This is the only one I could find. ~ Eugene, San Diego



Fellow Cade Owners: We have a dilemma and need your help. We just talked to Bob Gebauer, the owner. He is willing to make some braces for the earlier Cades. He said he needs a Super Brace #3300 to use as a model for measurements. The old drawings he has are not good enough to get accurate specs.

Is there someone in the Orange County or Los Angeles area with SuperBrace #3300 who would be willing to take their bike to Bob and let him take the measurements he needs to make a prototype? Or, is there someone who is willing to send their SuperBrace #3300 to Bob for specs? Bob said he would return it
immediately and polish it for you. Remember, the last six digits of your VIN # determines which brace you need-SB #3300 before VIN #103764. Bob did say it would take about two months before they would be delivered. If you can help us, please call Bob. If you are interested in a SuperBrace for your Cade, let Bob know. Thanks for your help. ~ Barbara and Harlan Speidel '86 LX

SuperBrace, Inc
15607 Graham Street
Huntington Beach, CA 92649
Sales 800-322-4783

What is a SuperBrace #3300?

The Superbrace is about an inch thick. The stocker is about 1/2 of that. It does make substantial difference in handling. As stated, the price is $100. ~ Tracy

If the last 6 numbers of your VIN are 103764 or before you need an earlier SuperBrace part number #3300. If the last 6 numbers of you VIN are 103765 or higher you need a later SuperBrace part number #3310. The cost for the SuperBrace is $99.95 plus UPS shipping. I just placed my order for one (#3310) with Bob Gebauer at Superbrace. He says he has 8 orders in his file and will be making them up in the next couple of weeks. You can call him at 1-800-322-4783. Bob is asking for someone who has a SuperBrace on the earlier model Cavalcade to either ride by his shop in Huntington Beach CA. Or if they would, ship it to him. Superbrace will pay for all the shipping and will run your brace through the polisher and make it shine like new, and ship it back to you ... so he can get the measurements of the #3300 earlier model. My 1st Cade had a SuperBrace; the one I have now does not.... I am very excited and happy to have given Bob my credit card number and get one on order. If your Cade does not have a Superbrace, In my opinion you need one. The shimmy at 85 around the bends on the highways goes away. I hope there is someone out there with an earlier Cade and SuperBrace that can help others out. ~ Paul


At a bike show a while back I spoke with a vendor that was selling touring covers for bikes. These covers only cover the top half of the bike and are designed to be small enough to take with you when travelling. At that time the manufacturer did not have one that would fit the Cavalcade but I just received this email from them:

From: "Tour King" <Error! Bookmark not defined.

Subject: Cavalcade cover Tour King Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 23:40:15 -0500 Hi Rick, Had saved your card with info asking if and when we would have a cover for the Suzuki Cavalcade. Well, we have them now.... In stock. Price is the same $43 which includes shipping. If interested you can call me 800-572-8687. Or you can order directly from our secure web site, . I don't have a picture at this time but if you look on my web site at the GL1100 top left picture you will see a very similar design... The difference being at the rear. The cover only goes over the luggage rack in the rear and does not drop down over the back of the trunk. You might print out a picture of the GL1100 for the time being will try to get a picture if I can find another Cavalcade. Thanks, Terry @ Tour King p.s. my email address is <mailto:Error! Bookmark not defined.Error! Bookmark not defined. Rick - Error! Bookmark not defined. Toronto, Ontario Canada Maroon 1988 Cavalcade LXE


My name is Bob I have an 86 LXE Blue/Blue. Most of the faring is cracked. Other than that everything else is in fine shape. I am looking to part it out or sell it whole. I have taken a substantial loss on this bike. So I am leaning on parting it out. Anyone interested, please contact me. Thank you ~ Bob, email Error! Bookmark not defined.

I have the following: 2 lower front farings; 2 saddlebags; trunk; 2 side panels; Rear fender; front fender, faux gas tank. All for $1,000.00. ~ Rob Wynne,


The other day when I was going for a ride and reached to open my trunk I noticed that the lower latch on the one side was missing... where it went I don't know... anyway does anyone out there have a damaged trunk or saddle bag with latches that would want to part with one? ~ Ken 86 LXE in WI

Ken, you and I have a similar problem. While on a trip to the Napa Valley Saturday I heard a PING Ting ting... fading in the distance. When I got home I noticed my right helmet lock was missing. If you find a saddlebag latch and I find a new helmet lock, both will require a key that fits the bike they came off. Unless Tracy or one of the other clever chaps on the list know how to change those locks. If so, anyone have a parts bike that they would sell a man a helmet lock? ~ Spike

Spike, I don't know about the helmet lock, but the lock cylinder in the saddlebag and trunk latches comes out in less than 30 seconds (assuming the latch is in the unlocked position). A few moments with your key rearranging the pins, maybe a little filing, and presto-chango, your key now works. ~ Tracy


Iím still looking for some replacement parts: the Cavalcade emblem on the middle saddlebag, the cover that the key goes into, the small plastic cover (rectangular in shape) And would like input from the group. Is it worth trying to upgrade an '86 LX to an LXE? The unit has 20,000 miles, I just did a new water pump, radio repair, (burnt track on the logic board.) I would like to add a CD changer and two rear speakers. Lastly, who makes the best replacement speaker? I had some Poly Magnedynes in it, but would like to here the groupís opinion. ~ Arthur Arena, Ď86 (the bike, not me) in NH

Spike, The helmet locks are easy to re-key. The only problem I encountered was that there are two different keyways. They're just the opposite from each other...ran into that problem.... They still needed two different keys though tumblers were alike... ~ Dennis Vanill, Error! Bookmark not defined.

Hi Everybody, We bought our Cade about a year ago and just love it. Have taken two long trips on it and find it is a great bike to ride on. Unfortunately we took a spill on it Friday the 13th(a deer decided he wanted his share of the road) and we are now in need of parts...If anyone has any spare parts for sale or can steer us in the right direction we would be so appreciative. Here is the list: You can call us at 1-800-346-4788 from 6 am to 4:30 PM or leave a # for call back)

Right & Left Upper Fairing Section

Left hand front turn signal lens

Right & left Mirror Mounts

Left hand Mirror

Right foot vent cover

Right truck latch

Right & Left Fairing pockets (Cowel Panel)

Front Speakers (Basically. what is compatible?)

Wind shield (I think this is found)

Crash Bar

Clear plastic cover for the speedometer

Computer board from left side of handlebars.

We really enjoy reading our e-mail now that we have a vague idea how to do this. You are a great group. Glad we are allowed to be a part of it. Ride safe and watch for those 4-legged wonders wandering around. /Charlie & Trisha

Does anyone have or know of someone who had a Cade Radio for sale. We would like to put one back on our Cade as the Previous owner got rid of the old one and installed a generic kind. Please let us know if you have any info. Thanks / Charlie & Trisha

Does anyone have a left-hand (clutch side) mirror for an 87 LXE, which they can sell? ~ Brett Error! Bookmark not defined.

Anyone that has a good pair of mirrors for sale for my LX contact me. Please be reasonable with prices, dealer is extremely high and local class shops seem to have a problem replacing cracked mirrors to date. Note the '87 LX model is completely different than the '86 year. ~ Joe Ď87 LX,

I am looking for the tail light lens for my starboard side saddlebag (right). The amber portion has a nice little chunk out of it. Reasonable price offered and I will, of course, cover S&H. Any help would be just Caderific! ~ Robert Strupe, Winston Salem, NC, Gold 86 LX, Error! Bookmark not defined.

I am looking for a good bumper cover. Does anyone have one for sale? ~ Tom

I bought another 86 Lx and need the engine crash bar and the plastic panels that hold the speakers, cover the battery, and the air compressor. In other words the black panels that fill in the inside of the fairing. The guard is the one without the lights. Anyone got anything? Thanks ~ Jim Roberts, Error! Bookmark not defined..

We are looking for 2 upper farings for an 87 LXE (the ones with the Suzuki name on them) Our bike is Silver & Black but can paint if needed. If you have or now of any please let us know. Our dealer gave us wrong info on what coming in. This is all we need to get it back on the road. Thanks everybody for your concern and messages about our accident. You are definitely appreciated. ~ Charlie & Trisha


When I bought my 'Cade, I noticed that there was something that might be missing at the end of the handlebars on both ends. I did not investigate this matter but the shop where I took my 'Cade for
service informed me that weights go on the ends and these weights will help dampen the handlebars. So I am in the market for these weights. If anyone has any, please email the condition and price to . Thanks, ~ Tim Knoebel, Sr., Front Royal, VA

I've also seen them offered in various colors in MC accessory catalogs & web sites. I don't know if there's a universal tread size but they shouldn't be hard to find. ~ Roy from MD

Usually bar-end weights have a 'plug' that fits into the open end of the handlebar and the bolt tightens up a wedge that 'clamps' it in. If the Cade weights are like this, then any weights suitable for a 1" handlebar should work fine. I think I'd try to find some pretty heavy ones. ~ Brenden

Check out this place Error! Bookmark not defined.. I got mine here. Something likes $30.00 per side. ~ Tom

Brenden, There is a threaded insert welded into the end of the bars on the Cav. ~ Tracy in Florida has the best price, but has high shipping I believe. Price was $20.76 each side. Thatís how they all sell them, per side. Not both sides in one kit. Lake Country Motorsports in Wisconsin ( ) has them for $26.69 each and free shipping over $50.00 I believe. I hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

You can get them from Suzuki (about $27.00). There are other bikes that have weights. Yamaha Venture is one. ~ Gerry in NY

Tim, They are a steel shell over a lead core. They are about 2" long with one end rounded and the other end shouldered to fit into the ends of the bars and a hole drilled completely through for the attachment screw. Their purpose is to dampen vibrations in the handlebars simply by being heavy. They change the rather high frequency buzz produced by the motor to a much lower frequency vibration that is generally less tiring on the hands. They may also provide a "first contact point" when the bike is dropped. I'm not sure about that. But I know that some of the Caders are intimately familiar with what hits first upon droppage. ~ Tracy


I need the small metal part that screws into the black plastic part of the antenna that allows you to fold it down. Does anybody have one they would sell or know where I could get one? Thanks. ~ Kirby Lester, Ď86 LXE in Topeka, KS

I bought after-market replacement masts. First set was just right but lost one on the road somewhere (my fault) and of course I bought them clearance at Wal-Mart. I then replaced those with another after market set. Sort rubber masts that attach with two setscrews. I don't use the CB so I don't know how it affects that, but radio reception is very good. ~ Glen

Well, if you have a CB and replaced the antenna with an AM/FM radio antenna DO NOT TRY TO USE THE CB. You'll almost definitely blow the final RF Amp. Thanks for the info on the Radio antenna; I'll look into that. ~ Brenden



I would like to know if any one has the upper mirrors, R&L & assy. I put my handlebars back so it is harder to see out. Let me know if some one out in Cavalcade land has a pair. ~ Dennis R.


A new driveshaft will cost over $230 from the dealer or even Bikebandit - anyone have an 87-or-later driveshaft with low miles that they wanna sell cheap? I may have to get one... Brian 87LXE in CT

You can get a new drive shaft from parts depot. I don't have the ph# handy, but you can find them
listed in the back of Cycleworld. I recently got one for my 86 lx from them, and with the shipping it was less than $170.00. Their prices have been better on any OEM piece that I have looked for, and they will even try to cross-reference parts that different Suzuki motorcycles share. ~ Bill Brooks, Ď86 LX, The Tennessee Lightshow

Brian, I can't believe the whole drive shaft goes bad just like that. I have always heard that when they go itís a slow gradual process. There has to be another explanation to the vibrations. It could be something as simple as loosing a wheel weight or a brake pad not fully disengaging the rotor. I think I would start by having the mechanic Chopper has dealt with look at the rotors, brake pads, and wheel balance before spending a bunch of money substituting drive shafts. ~ Al from Mass


Guys, What are the thickest brake pads available? Price? Where is it available? I've all rotors that measure under spec, but not my much. Unfortunately, my budget doesn't allow them to be replaced at this time. My current brake pads aren't worn down, but are getting close. My reasoning is that by installing new pads (thicker if possible), I might delay replacement and enhance braking/safety, until at least I can afford new rotors. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Make some shims for behind the pads. ~ Tracy

I had the same situation and have been using car brake shims, which you can cut to fit. Shims can be found at most auto parts stores. ~ LU, MD


Has anyone re-painted there gold and brown Cade and have the OEM paint numbers? My trailer needs to be touched up... Thanks for your help ~ Rod Pierson 86 Brown and Gold LX Cade


Rod, Yes, I have an '86 gold with brown. Original paint is available from Suzuki (assuming they haven't axed it) in 90 ml and 500 ml containers. All of the colors (main and trim) and the part numbers for each are listed on the last page of the parts book. I went to the local auto parts store that mixes paint and just found a car color that was close. Better selection of paint types that way. ~ Tracy

I have a gold & brown Ď86s Cade. I also have a can of paint thatís the original color. Itís Suzuki 4015 24g Legatto Gold, which your Suzuki can order for about $18.00 to $20.00 I donít know about the brown. ~ Gary


Ď86 LXE, two-tone maroon. Chrome rotor covers, lighted rear bumper, drivers back rest, trunk light bar, extra chrome, helmets with intercoms, everything works fine. 28.000 miles. $4900. Can send pictures though private email address. Located in NorthWest Indiana.

Looks like I'm really going to need to part with my Ď86 Cade. I'm relocating to the SF Bay area and won't need transportation there. Bike has all the electronics and all of it works. Runs like a top and the rubber is nearly new. Minor cosmetic (very minor) dings and stuff... seat is thrashed. It needs a mirror but other than that the bike is in great shape. $2800.00 email: Error! Bookmark not defined. or Error! Bookmark not defined.




"So, who is coming to the Dam Run at San Jose Harley on Sunday?"

"Hey, I didn't think we allowed obscene language in this group!" ;-)

In light of the recent history I think we should be open minded regarding the use of certain language in polite company. Henceforth I feel that we should not be offended by a discrete use of the term "Harley". ~ Spike


Hi all! Everyone in Northeast Ohio, have you ever been to "Bike Night" at the Quaker State & Lube restaurant on Canal road in Valley View? It's a great time. They're trying to beat their record every week of 3800 bikes. It's from 6 to 11 p.m. every Thursday for anyone interested. They sell food and drinks outside so you don't have to worry about standing in a mile long line inside trying to get something to eat. Hope to see more than 1 Cavalcade there.... Mine. See yas! ~ Rick


Hello group, I would just like to thank this group for all these messages each and every day. For the last week this has been vary helpful in keeping my mind off the news that I received last Sunday that my father had passed on to a better place. So I spent the week in Bath, NY taking care of business for him. But I have to tell u this story. While there on July 4th for the Pride Ride, my dad wanted to see the motorcycle that he inspired me to keep fixing so I could give him a ride. I'd call him when I was mad enough to roll it down the hill. And heíd say "Son, just walk away till you arenít angry." and I did. So when it was finished this year, I rode it from CT to NY so he could see "his bike" as he called it. It was in his color and the last time he was able to be outside he wanted to race me with his scooter (3-wheel electric). So we did and I let him win. He got the biggest kick out of that. Then he went into the hospital and was never able to be out side again. He passed away July 29th. But he left me with this note. "Son I won the race that day and Iím about to win the race on life as I will be in victory in heaven with the lord and please do not cry as one day we will meet again but please take care of yourself and our family. Love, Pop." This was written on July 25, 2001 and I thought it might be neat to share it with my friends. ~ Chopper