The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #16 ~ November, 2001

Jay D. Johnson, Editor


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CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

? CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri. You can visit their web site at

? Plans include exhibits and displays by suppliers; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises. Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.

? You should get your reservation in early. There are only 65 rooms blocked for our group with a special discounted rate. Half of those are already reserved. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Owner’s Group meeting ("CADE RAID 2002") to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a tentative rate of $55.00 per night. They do not expect this to change. However they will not be able to guarantee this rate until September of this year. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer. The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553. Those who wait until the last minute will have a difficult time finding lodging.



Sunday, 9/15/02

Arrival and Check-in at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort 

5:00 pm – 10:00 pm Exhibitor Set-up (Exhibitors Only)


Monday, 9/16/02

8:00 am – 10:00 am Exhibitor Set-Up

9:00 am – 5:00 pm Registration Open

9:00 am – 1:00 pm Self-Guided Tour of Branson

10:00 am – 5:00 pm Exhibits Open

1:00 pm – 2:00 pm Class or Workshop

2:15 pm – 3:15 pm Class or Workshop

3:30 pm – 4:30 pm Class or Workshop

4:30 pm – 5:45 pm Reception in the Cardinal Room

6:00 pm – 9:00 pm Welcome Dinner and Imax Theater Show


Tuesday, 9/17/02

9:00 am – 5:00 pm Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 12:00 am Classes or Workshops

12:00 pm – 2:00 pm Ride the Ducks to Lunch:

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm Group Rides

Evening (7:30 – 10:30 pm) "Country Tonite" Live Music & Comedy Show


Wednesday, 9/18/02

9:00 am – 12:00 noon Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 10:30 am Classes or Workshops

11:00 am – 12:30 pm Classes or Workshops

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm Group Rides

Evening 7:00pm – 10:00pm Awards Dinner ~ Prizes and Awards


Thursday, 9/19/02 (Optional Day)

Spend the day at Silver Dollar City Theme Park and enjoy an evening dinner cruise and a show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell Cruise


Friday, 9/20/02 (Optional Day)

Enjoy a second day free at the Silver Dollar City Theme Park. OR, ride to Lake of the Ozarks or another area that provides us a day’s ride through the Ozarks before heading home.  Over-night stay at a local resort or motel.



NAME: ______________________________________________________________________

ADDRESS: _________________________________________________________________________

CITY, STATE, ZIP: ___________________________________________________________

TELEPHONE: _________________________________ FAX: ________________________

E-MAIL: _____________________________________________________________________



Shirts are included with pre-registrations received by August 1, 2002

All fees go to the expenses for Cade Raid 2002.


_____ CADE OWNER: $25.00 _____ PASSENGER: $15 _____ EXTRA SHIRTS @ $15.00

Shirt Sizes: _____ Small _____ Large _____ X-Large _____XX-Large


Registration Fees Do Not Include Lodging or the following Optional Events. Complete this Form by Marking the Following and Calculating Your Total Payment Below.

Please Mark Optional Choices:

____ Monday Evening Dinner & IMAX Theater @ $20.00 per Person: $ _______

____ Tuesday Noon, "Ride The Ducks" Lunch @ $21.00 per Person: $ _______

____ Tuesday Evening Show "County Tonite" @ $22.00 per Person: $ _______

____ Wednesday Evening Awards Dinner @ $20.00 per Person: $ _______

____ Thursday Optional Day at Silver Dollar City Theme Park with Dinner Cruise and a Live Show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell @ $75.00 per Person: $ _______

(Includes A Second Free Day at the Silver Dollar City Theme Park)


___ Check # _________ (Payable to Tree Farm Communications, Inc.)

___ To Charge to your Credit Card  Please Include Visa, MasterCard, Discover or American Express Card Number:

Card #: ___________________________ Expires: ____________

Signature _____________________________________________

Return Completed Form To: Cade Raid 2002

PHONE: 425-868-0464 c/o Tree Farm Communications, Inc.

FAX: 425-868-2495 23703 NE 4th Street

Sammamish, WA 98074-3612 USA




A couple question Jay, Mrs Pappy <G> and I plan on doing this, are other bikes allowed? my buddy rides a gold wing and may want to ride with us. Also Are there going to be other bikes from Calif, we could ride together. At my age I am only good for about 500 mile a day and Mrs Pappy likes motels better than tents. It is about 2000 miles so about four days coming and going . ~ Pappy

Hi Pappy, Yes, I have at least a couple of my Gold Wing owning buddies who plan to join us. It's open to Cavalcade Owners and those who wish they were. I figure that's anyone who doesn't own one. I'm sure there will be some other Californians coming to Branson.

Like you, I have at least a four day ride from the Seattle area to Branson. Your email prompted me to go to and plot out a good route for most Californians. Needles, CA is 550 miles from Sacramento If you can make it that far on the first day, the following route will get you to Branson in three more days: Needles to Albuquerque, NM is 533 miles. Albuquerque to Oklahoma City, OK is 543 miles. Oklahoma City to Branson, MO is 332 miles. This route keeps you on I-40 all the way to Oklahoma City. From there, I'd take I-44 to Tulsa and then east on 412 through Springfield, Arkansas, then north on 65 to Branson, MO.

I like staying in Super 8 motels. They are inexpensive and you can find them in most areas. They are nicer than Motel 6 in most cases. And you can get a discount card which gives you a 10% discount. They also discount AARP members and maybe even AAA. You can get a directory of all locations at one of there motels near you, or go to their web site: I know people from various parts of the country will want to coordinate their over-night stops so folks can ride together. If anyone wants to post a favorite town or motel for others to rendevous, we can keep track of them. We could call them "Cade Stops" or "Cade Rests." Anybody have a better name? I hope this answers your question and that we see you and Mrs. Pappy in Branson. ~ Jay


As you are planning to attend CADE RAID 2002 in Branson next September, those of you in the Southeastern states might want to think about an overnight stop at 29 Dreams Motorcycle Resort. This is billed as a haven for motorcyclists, nestled in the foothills of the Southern Appalachian Mountains near Birmingham, Alabama. They have cabins and camp sites. 29 Dreams is located just south of Birmingham, on scenic Highway 25. This is about 565 miles from Branson which is a long day's ride but do-able. Their web site is: Their telephone number for reservations is: (205) 672-0309. Address: 29 DREAMS, 53707 HWY 25, VANDIVER, AL 35176 Just a suggestion to consider. See you in Branson, ~ Jay

European Cade Raid 2002

June 1st to June 7th. at:

Dairyfarm Camping Sotterum

Sotterumerdijk 11

NL 8753 JA Cornwerd

Tel: 00 31 515 231573

Fax: 00 31 515 233211


Internet: Rabobank Bolsward: 308740920




What is this "aux gas tank" everybody is talking about? Does the Cade have a true reserve we can turn on when the main tank runs out of fuel, enuff to limp to a gas station? I've always just run out, went dead (twice) when pushing the miles too far... does somebody know something I don't? ~ Don

The Cade has a reserve tank. Some call it an auxillary or aux tank. There is no switch that will let you run out of gas then switch over to it. When your gauge says reserve you’re on reserve. When it says empty, guess what? The Cade is not a bike you want to push to a gas station. So you may want to stop playing the "how far can I go on empty" game. ~ Roy in TX

Don, You can't turn it "on and off" in the traditional sense of a reserve valve on a regular bike tank. It is plumbed in permanently and fills and drains with the regular tank. It simply increases the amount of overall fuel that the bike will hold. See, the Suzuki engineers were kind enough to incorporate a GAS GAUGE into the display array. And, see, when you have a GAS GAUGE you're not suppose to run out because when the GAS GAUGE gets near the "E" (stands for empty by the way), then you are suppose to find a gas station and make the GAS GAUGE go back towards the "F" mark (which means full by the way). So, why do you need a reserve valve if you have GAS GAUGE just like the one on your car? Do you run out of gas in your car as well? Smile, I'm mainly messing with you. ~ Tracy

HUH???? Not the last time I checked... You must be thinking of the fuel filter? Nice to know you are human Tracy, and mess up also. LOL Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

Okay! Okay! Okay! You're right! The seat and false gas tank have been off my bike so long my aging memory failed me. Sorry, ~ Tracy

Ok, all youse funny guys who 'splained me what the thingie on the dash with the [E /F] is.... I found it! I always thought the E meand 'excited.' Anyway thanks for responding. I didn't think there was a reserve tank in the classic sense. But when I hear things like "aux tank" my juices just start getting out of control. BTW, if anybody would like to know... the manual for my Cade says it holds 6.2 gal (US) but I've discovered there's only 5.5 gal (US) apparently usable. ~ DB

I know when I hit about 180 miles, I'd better be planning a fuel stop or I start getting nervous because my guage takes a nose dive. The guage is not very well calibrated as it seems to run forever before the tank hits the 1/2 full mark. ~ Roy – ’86 LX

Remember too, that if you keep nursing the gas pump at the station when it is at the top of the filler, one can get a third of a gal more in - seems it takes a little while for the gas to equalize and move into the aux tank. ~ Denny Potoczky, ‘86 Cavalcade LXE, 99 Kawasaki Nomad, South Bend, IN

Sounds beleivable I guess. I still need to satify my ego and check the shop manual. I haven't bought the CD yet. Does the fuel that is in that tank get cycled in with the normal under seat tank or does it stay in the aux tank till it's used? ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau

Gets filled and emptied with the main tank each time. It has two lines, one top, one bottom. ~ Tracy

I was told that you had to run the tank down to the empty mark ( E ) to be sure that the aux tank had fresh fuel in it. GGG At least once a month! ~ Joe in CO

1/2 a gal. in the Cade tank is unable to be used that is why you may go to a station running on fumes an think a 1/2 gallon was still there -- it may be there but you will still run out of fuel. ~ Allan

Hey, Ted's question gave me an idea. One could add a valve on the downline on the aux tank. Then if one gets forgetful or if one’s fuel gage is out of commission, one could use it as a poor man's reserve. ~ spike

If you did that then the gas would get old, unless you ran low so you could drain it then replenish it now and then. Of course bad gas is better than pushing! But, silly me I thought it was easy to read a gas gauge. ~ Roy

Ja, thats why I said "if one's fuel guage is out of commission." You are right about the fuel in the aux tank would get old. I’ve a better idea anyway: Those emergency bottles of gasoline substitute you can get at Kragens, which is actually mostly ethanol. Just carry one of those, and pay attention to the guage. I bought the Cade when I lived in the Mojave desert. Gas stations are sometimes far apart down in that part of the world. If I still lived there I would likely carry a couple bottles of that ethanol. ~ Spike


Ok has anybody out there changed the air filter on the Cavalcade yet? If you have how? Have not got my owners manual yet. Also, does it take a special socket to change the spark plugs? ~ Ronald

Ron, The air filter is under the false gas tank cover.(the plastic that is all around the radio) It is tricky to get off. You’d better wait till you get the manual. It will show you all that is intaled to change the filter. I might add to order you a Amsoil foam filter, as that will be the last time you need to buy a $40 air filter for it. It's washable and reuseable. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX

I just cleaned mine the other night. It took about 20 min to get to it and that was without any directions. I soaked it in some purple cleaning stuff, rinsed it off in the kitchen sink, and put it in the oven @ 250 degrees till it was dry. Mine seems to be made of some synthetic material and was not very dirty since there is only 8500 miles on the Cade. I was gentel with it and I don't think I hurt it by cleaning it this way. I did not use compressed air thinking that that would do more harm than good. It took 15 min to put it all together again. (Now I'll hear about what I did wrong.) ~ Joe in CO

Your Suzuki dealer can still get the stock one. Amsoil has a reuseable foam one also, but you need to send in an old one to get it rebuilt with foam. Check the site for more info in the parts section. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX


Hey all, A trailer (for the bike to pull) has fallen into my lap and now it sits in my garage. I have talked to others and they have stated that if they use their trailer twice a year, it's well worth having. They have also told me that the trailer may sit in the garage most of the riding season but you will always have one when you need it and that will make the trailer well worth having. I can't wait to try this out. When I get out of college, I strongly feel my bike trips are going to be more often and longer and I sue hope this trailer works out. For the caders who pull trailers, How is it? do you find it a needed tool to use. Lets hear the pros and cons. Thanks! A.Taylor

Alvin my main cader bud, Lar and I love the trailer. it lets us break up our trips with camping and hoteling and also bring lots of goodies back from americade and other outings. We are hoping to get more camping done next summer, maybe with you guys. When we pulled it to Maine and the cape and across the white and green mountains you wouldn't have know it was behind us. Think you will love it and Vorley will too. She can take more stuff along on the trips ~ Nancy

Hi Alvin, We've been towing trailers for 17 years. We have a cargo trailer that we use for short trips, (3 to 4 days, when we motel it. And a Bunkhouse tent trailer which we travel with on long trips. As far as the bike is concerned it handles them perfectly. It doesn't seem to care whether it's pulling 200 lbs or 600 lbs. You need to add a little stopping time with a heavy trailer. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good shape on the trailer and you have the right amount of tongue weight. Distribute the weight evenly inside with a little heavier in the front. If you have a long tongue, an ice chest works perfectly. I've pulled the tent trailer at 80 mph with no problem. Trust me, you'll love it. ~ Eugene, San Diego

Alvin: if you go to message 18468 in the archives you'll read what happened to me on my run to w va, it was my first time towing a trailer, loaded at highway speeds, this was a wake up call to me, tongue weight is a very important factor, as well as speed. As after adjusting my tongue weight and speed for the situation there was no more problems, i towed the trailer this labor day weekend to Roanoke, VA, and could stay with interstate speeds 80 to 85, however i don't recommend traveling that fast even just 2up, and I do recommend also a few runs on different roads and surfaces, towing a trailer on a rough road or potted surfaces could be compared to hauling a dancing bear on the back, so get used to what you have got on the rear of your bike and remember it's back there. The cade pulls it very effortlessly, i have used mine three times this year and of course i built it myself, so the cost was minimal and the guy's i ride with are not campers so just didn't need it, but it stays loaded and ready for the call, you'll enjoy it, just get used to it. I understand Tracy's CD has an article on trailer pulling, if not i have one i can e-mail you it's 4 pages, i had thought it was going to be put on the website but it hasn't showed up yet. Enjoy your trailer. You'll like it and mom can load it up with goodies like nancy ~ Walter n Maryland

Hey Thanks for the responses. Nancy, soon I hope to be able to take you up on those camping trips. You and Lar are the best Cade buddies to hang with. Oh, by the way, there was something that I forgot to mention. On the back of this trailer (between the tail lights) there's a great big A** "HD" sticker. You know the one, orange and black about 18 inches wide. Now for me, I think that is an inventation for trouble. A suzuki pulling a trailer with a big "HD" sticker on it. Being that im a nice guy, I told the seller that I would leave the sticker on through the winter :) he said "your a nice guy, thanks". Soooo, how can I get this sticker off (when Spring comes hee, hee, hee) without killing the paint job?

If it doesn't have a Clear Coating sprayed over it, use a foamy spray type oven cleaner. Let it sit for about an hour then peel it back with your finger nails. It will take a little work, but you will not damage the finish. DO NOT use a putty knife or razor blade as they tend to dig into the surface. Do Not let the oven cleaner stay on too long. When you are done, flush with water. Any last bit of sticky adhesive can be removed with Bug & Tar remover. Now you are ready to polish your newly acquired trailer. Happy Trailering! ~ Bob D. Indy/ Gideon

Alvin, If you like to take over-night trips the trailer is well worth having, even if you don't camp. If you DO camp, the trailer is almost a necessity. After you get a bit of experience pulling it, you won't notice a difference. I suggest you spend a bit of practice time with it before you head out on a long trip. Also, be aware that most trailers will dance around a bit when they are empty. They ride much better with some weight inside. Another recommendation is that you pull out the wheel bearings and pack them with fresh grease each year. It will extend the life of your bearings & your axle, improve your gas mileage and put less stress on your engine. ~ Jay


Hey Walter, I’m taking my bike to the machine shop this Saturday, so that the hitch can be fitted to the bike and the final welds can be made. I must tell you that he was very, very impressed with your plans on the hitch. He strongly advised using the Reese hitch method so that the hitch can be hidden by the mud flap and the ball can be added when I'm ready to tow. He used a plazma cutter to cut the parts that mount to the muffler and the plate where the ball will mount. It looks as if he his making 3 hitches because he cut 6 of those parts out. This should be done this weekend and I'll let you know how it looks. Walter, thanks for shareing your plans with me and the other on this site, I know that you have saved me alot of money and grief. I would of tried this myself, but my welding skills aren't quite up to the task. ~ Alvin Taylor Newark, OH, ‘87 LXE

Alvin, The rearward portion of the hitch will come out the back of your bike just as the markland does. I covered that portion with a piece of stainless and cut a square hole for the reviever to go into. That's why you have to alter the length of the male portion of the reciever so it won't go too far in and HIT the plastic mud defelector that is made on the bottom of the fender. The hitch is almost up against the bottom of the bumper. You'll see what I mean when he goes to mount it. As for the Harley sticker, try a Hair dryer, start a corner and just keep working. If there is any sticky left on the trailer surface try WD 40 and a piece of toweling. Good Luck! ~ Walter n Maryland

Alvin, Use a hair dryer, pull verrry slowly and carefully. ~ Jay

Ok Everyone I have finished the trailer hitch for my cade. My thank goes out to Walter who supplied the plans at the Suzukicavalcade web page. Walter as you can see I made a few changes trying to keep the receiver hidden by the mud flap but I couldn't make it small enough and still keep it strong. I'm going to try to make a cavalcade emblem to put into the receiver when the ball is not installed. The hitch was made out of 5/8" steel bars and 1/8" steel plating. When it was all done it weighed in at a whopping 20lbs. It's now painted black and mounted to the bike and now it is time to wire the bike and the trailer. WHEW! does it ever end. Thanks again Walter. If anyone wants to take a peek at the hitch, click on the location below. C-YA! ~ Alvin Taylor Newark Ohio 87 LXE

Looks plenty strong. Does t have to be removed or shifted out of the way to remove the rear axle shaft for a tire change? ~ Ray & Lin Letourneau "In The Woods" Nekoosa, WI

Thanks for the great pic, I'm going to file that one as I need to make a hitch sometime soon... I presume the 5/8" steel bar you used was just solid mild steel? I kinda wonder if it could be made out of thick wall square tubing...that'd take several pounds off it. ~ Brenden

Alvin: The hitch looks great. I see you did modify it and I still approve of the material. I know mine survived that episode on my trip and was durn glad that nothing broke. As to substituting the solid for the square, I would be afraid that moisture would get indide and eventually rust from interior out, making for a weak hitch before you noticed it. I opted to attempt to keep it hid also, but would have to altered the rear plastic panel bottom. If you haven't mounted it yet, you might take some measurements along with the picture and add it to PLAN 3 in the suzukicavalcade website. Also include a brief sketch of changes you made.

For the member that asked, you will have to remove the rear wheel unless you raise the bike up. As a suggestion, when I entered the bikes wiring for the lights I used color coded wires and butt splices. I entered the bikes wiring below the existing plug, the onet you have to unplug to remove the saddle bags. I entered on the left and the right plug and kept them seperated so I could just remove the hitch assembly. It makes no difference from which side you take the stop/light/taillight and turnsignal. However you will have to go to the opposite to get the OTHER TURN signal. I also provided a ground wire to the bike’s framework rather than just use the ball hitch for ground.

Enjoy your trailer. Just remember to practice with it and get used to having it behind you, as the Cade doesn't know it's there. ~ Walter n Maryland


When I was hauling, I found that 15 pounds seemed to work best. ~ Mike

10 to 15% of the trailer weight (loaded) should be on the tongue. ~ Tracy


I pull a Bushtec trailer made for my Cade and feel, as do many others, that it is the best motorcycle trailer built. I've had mine for 10 years and taken it through British Columbia twice and all through CA and to Wyoming and to Costco to many times to count. Loading it correctly isn't difficult but important. Incorrectly loaded can send you straight when you want to turn, especially when you hit the brakes. Check out their website:  ~ Doug Jensen



This is Larry from Dayton Ohio 86lxe, 37000 miles, ok group, I need some diagnostic help, I've developed a "clunk" noise right after starting off in first gear, if I was in a truck I would say I had a universal joint, going out. I don't have power or shifting problems. Nanc an I are in Nashville this weekend towed the bike down an we got to ride on the Nachez Trace. We had a wonderful time visiting Nancy's cousin 650 BMW, went to the Grand Ole Opry, and to a Titans game. Now thats a guys weekend! Great job on the 2002 Cade raid Jay as usual FIRST class work, expect a good turnout as many non Cader friends will be coming along, you just made it too appealing. ride on. ~ Larry

Larry, Front U-joint. Replace it. ~ Tracy

Where is the front u-joint located on the motorcycle? ~ Dan ‘86 Gray GT

At the front end of the drive shaft. ~ Tracy

Its just behind the secondary drive inside the drive shaft tube. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX

Larry, You must remove the rear wheel to get the drive shaft out. Once the rear wheel is removed, remove the 3 bolts from the final drive (where the drive shaft housing bolts to the final drive). Once the final drive is off, you can take out the drive shaft. ~ Tom


Larry, You also have to remove the swing arm, the drive shaft U-joint assembly will not clear the reduced size of the swing arm to exit from the rear. Been there, done that. You have to pull the drive shaft out from the end where the flex boot attaches to the swing arm and gear unit. Good luck, ~ David ‘86 LXE


The drive shaft will not come out the rear of the swing arm, as the yokes are made on the shaft itself. To do it this way the swing arm assembly, must also be removed. I would place the bike on the center stand, in gear not running and rock the rear wheel back and forth to see if i could hear a clunk or click or whatever, inside the rubber boot on the left swing arm, you might carefully remove the clamps from same boot and slide it off the big end and see if there is any slack in the u-joint. Do this carefully soooz yo don't mess the boot up. If you encounter a lot of oil when you remove this boot you might also have other problems but take'm one at a time, if you do have a bad u joint make sure you replace the rear seal in the intermediate gear box, or it might be for naught. More time consuming than hard. Good luck. Do it carefully. ~ Walter ‘n Maryland


Your right my mistake, it wont come out though the back i was think of something different . ~ Tom


Driveshaft is in the tube that connects the left side of the motor to the back wheel. U-joint is near the motor end. ~ Tracy


If you opt for removing the intermediate gear box and the stator case cover you can pull the drive shaft out the front without removing the swing arm. However the rear wheel must be removed either way, and for sure if you remove the intermediate gear box replace all three seals in that gear box before reinstalling. Been there done that also!! Twice!! Good luck!!!! ~ Walter n Maryland


Larry, If you call Cycles R Us in Medina Ohio, they know a guy that is just a wizard with Cades. I had a driveshaft go on mine when I was coming back from Nashville. It took him 3 hours to RE and RE the driveshaft. ~ Gary ’88 LXE Whitby, Onterio

The driveshaft/U-joint come as an assembly, the U-joint is NOT repairable as an auto u-joint. Might try some of the parts INFO I posted earlier, and yes there was one on E-bay just a couple of days ago went for a durn good price, thought about trying for it myself. You might start with  One size fits all from what I’ve heard. ~ I went to my favorite Cavalcade parts website they list TWO Different part numbers: 27100-24A05 for the G/H model 27100-24Ao6 for the J model Both list for $176.18 and appear to be available. It is my understanding that Suzuki came out with a Beefier U-joint on the later models which I take for granted to be the.J model. However you must take into consideration, did they also make the left swing arm larger diameter to accomodate for this? Does anyone know? Prices aren't as good as E-bay at times. But if you need the part, you need the part. I think the one on E-bay went for around $60.00. BikeBandit is a good source for parts, when you learn to get around in the site. It can be confusing, to me anyway. ~ Walter n Maryland



I guess along the same lines a "hearing a clunk" I saw a "large drip" coming from the black tube that connects to the (what I think) is a breather box that is located at the backend left side up under the fender area. Oil and gas type liquid. I looked at the cd but could not find out exactly what it is. I had filled up the gas tank earlier and later did some 7k shifts. I know that I should not have done that but I did. I'm not going to rev that high again. Sometimes I think I get confused as to which bike I'm on (my other is a gs1100gk). SOOO anyway, when I went slightly past 7k and shifted it sortof backfired. I'm wondering if I hurt anything commiting this act of passion? (not so smart) ~ Joe in Co

The backfire was from the rev limiter kicking in. It drops the spark for a moment and then those cylinders, still filling with gas/air, get a new spark and BOOM! There goes the backfire. That breather looking thing is the aux gas tank. If there is a drip, it could be because the clamps need to be tightened on the hoses that connect it to the main tank. ~ Tracy

I see drips everywhere there walking around just like you and I, they dont even know they're drips. I think the box your talking about is the reserve tank,which would explain the gas/oil liquide, gas could be leaking down picking up some oil or grease on the way down. The breather where the air filter is (under fake tank behind radio) has two tubes going to it from the front that conected at the bottom I dont think there is anything that would lead there because thats just for venting I believe. ~ Roy in TX

Thanks for the info. I got under and saw that the tube does go up front and under the false tank. Ah, the rev limiler. It keeps folks like me from killing the machine. ~ Joe in CO


Just for information. Over the last couple of years as a member of this e-mail group (seems like a couple of years, anyway), what becomes clear is that every one of the Cavalcade bikes suffers from exactly the same ills at about the same mileage, give or take 50K miles. A clunk in the drivetrain at takeoff (when the driveline is initially loaded) has always been the front u-joint. Why? Because the joint is either too small or was made from inferior materials. In fact, I seem to recall that there was a recall or maybe just an upgraded part replacement program for the earlier models. A slip in the splined end of the shaft is nearly impossible. If you think about for a second, what kind of wear would one have to incur a slip in the splines. A ton! Even then, why would it only slip one tooth? If it was worn that bad the splined end would just spin inside the mating hub. Nice thought, Spike, but pretty unlikely. Here is the top ten list for the problems that nearly every Cavalcade will experience sometime in it's lifetime. These are not necessarily in order of importance or failure mileage.

1) stator

2) reg/rec (usually caused by a stator failure)

3) water pump (sometimes a bearing, sometimes a seal, sometimes both)

4) u-joint

5) clutch safety switch

6) clutch hyd fluid (clutch loses feel after hiway riding)

7) radio switches

8) gear/oil seals in the secondary and final drive

9) staked in plug at the front-end of the driveshaft

10) electrical connections near the battery

Yes, there are probably more. However, I recall these as being experienced by most of the riders. Just a little extra un-necessary info I needed to spew. Tracy

Well, I gotta add one more.....the speedometer cable or speedometer head.....about 32,000 miles ~ Nancy


I had a pleasant surprise during Sunday's Blue Knights/Salvation Army Toy Run in Wilmington, Delaware. While stopping traffic at an intersection I heard a bike blow the horn - a blue cade - I haven't seen another one in the 2 1/2 years that I've owned my 86 LX. Back at the meeting area I located the Cade, an 86 LXE, but not the rider. (The event had over 300 bikes and 416 attendees.) Well I eventually caught up with the rider. A great find, he said he was the Cade tech for Track & Trail, a Suzuki, Kawasaki & BMW dealership located on New Churchmans Road near New Castle Delaware. Their phone # is 302-323-9044. I've had satisfactory work done at the dealership on my Kawasaki Concours but nothing yet on the Cade. He bragged that the Cade was the best bike going. He seemed knowlegeable about the bike & willing to tackle whatever. Might be a good resource for DE, PA, MD & NJ riders. ~


Anyone know whats involved in getting the carbs off, any special tools? Are carb kits still available? Anyone know the part # of them ? ~ T.G.

Tom, My advice to you is if you have never tried to rebuild a carb, or remove one, please let an experienced mechanic do it. You will thank yourself. ~ Ron

I agree completely, especially the Cade setup. It's one of those jobs that you're better off paying someone to do (I'm certainly not made of money, but that would be my course of action.) Finding someone who knows what they're doing is the hard part. ~ Robert, 

Getting the carbs off and on again isn't too difficult. The cade has 'em sitting right there for the pickin, much better than some GS bikes I've worked on. Unless you have a major problem (like full of gunk), the only major thing that goes bad is the slide diaphragm, which is easy to replace. As for kits, the parts book doesn't show anything as a kit, only individual parts. And, there ain't that many parts that one could replace. The needle and seat (comes as a kit), a few O-rings and the bowl gasket are about all that could "wear out". I do agree with some of the other responses, if you don't have a good working knowledge of carbs, let someone else do it. However, there isn't anything hard about it, just tedious and detail oriented. ~ Tracy

Carbs are not to hard to get off. Can have them off within 30 min. If you don’t have to much trouble. I got so good of doing it I can take them off in about 10 min. ~ Ryan

Tracy, I think the slide diaphragm is all i need to replace, I ask you before about my problem "running rich" and you said it sounds like it was slide diaphragms. I just thought while I had them off I would rebuild them, but maybe I’ll just replace the slide diaphragms. Do the carbs have to come off for that?? Thanks for all the replies ~ Tom

I don't think so but it might make it easier. The only real pain is disconnecting and reconnecting the throttle and choke cables. You can take off the air filter and see if there is enough room. You have to remember that the slides will have to come all the way out. I think you at least can check them for defects with the carbs on just by removing the caps over them. If you take the carbs off, get some silicone grease at the hardware store (used to lubricate faucet internals and costs about a buck) to lubricate the insides of the rubber manifolds before you try and push the carb necks back into them. Makes it a lot easier and won't have any long-term effects on the rubber like WD-40, motor oil or other petroleum based grease. ~ Tracy


Don't know if anyone has ever lost a clutch cylinder, but they do give a warning! Had to take a quick trip to San Jose (sorry Jerr, I asked ya for contact info and never got it, couldn't meet to say "hello.") Had to go up and pick up my work clothes (yeah, finally got a job) from my former roomie and on the way back I noticed the shifter felt like it was out of adjustment. Stopping for gas in Paso Robles it was all I could do to get the bike to find neutral. At the station it looked like I was low on brake fluid. Ok, pop the cap and looking inside I saw a bunch of crud in the fluid... stuff that looks like liquid rubber. Gee! Wonder if a piston seal went bad? <scratchs head> Topping off the fluid helped the action, but not engagement of the clutch. Still don't know if its the master or slave but you can bet both will be fixed this week. Bike is going straight to the shop when it opens tomorrow. Dewds and dewdettes... if you feel anything weird with your clutch and notice too much travel in the lever. Shop the thing asap. You don't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere trying to push the baby from neutral into gear just so you can get home. I'll let everybody know what it costs, and what the problem was, for future reference. ~ Don

Hi Don, That is what mine did going cross country in the middle of Wyoming. We lost a day and got to meet some interesting folks. When we did find someone who had his act together, he drained the fluid. Just sucked it out with a turkey baster. Then he refilled it with dot 4 brake fluid and it ran like new. I do that whenever the fluid starts to turn brown. I can see the fluid in the little window. It was a flat scary experience at the time. ~ Pappy

I got lucky. It turns out the clutch fluid was really contaminated and just needed a flush. I'll be back on the road tomorrow. Now, while at my dealer's he has a really pretty 87 LXE (blue) taken in trade. His shop rebuilt the top end about a year ago and it has 68K miles on it. Steering head bearing is shot, and sometimes will not like to stay in second gear. Other than that, the bike is flawless. Has stereo and all the goodies except the CB. Oh... the price? Asking $1500 but he'll take any reasonable offer. Bike is at Cole Brothers Suzuki, 5906 Lankershim Blvd, No. Hollywood, CA phone: 818-980-4643 Ask for Gary. My ‘86 is still potentially up for sale, also.

Don , I bet it's your fluid . When air gets in there that’s what happens. Change fluids often. It’s cheap and easy. ~ Kelly


Tracy, help me - I keep getting the wrong pads - do all LXE's have the later model pads? the parts schematic seems to say that, if I am reading it right. thanks ~ Denny, ‘86 Cavalcade LXE, ‘99 Kawasaki Nomad South Bend, IN

Well, as I see it, up to frame number 103764, you use pad #59130-24A00 for the GDG and GTG. From frame number 103765 and up, you use pad #59130-24A10 for the GDG, GCG, GCH and GCJ. There is no specifier as to LX or LXE but I'm sure that it covered by the Gxx designation. Also, if you have frame number 103764 or lower, you also need the 59371-33410 shims (4 ea.). Does that help? ~ Tracy


Yes! That must be right then. My 86 LXE is a GCG so it must take the newer type pads. Thanks ~ Denny Potoczky


Can someone help me with a cleaner? My water in the radiator ran over because I over filled it, and ran down the chrome on the right side. I have tried brasso and 00 steel wool to no avail. It really looks bad. HELP please! ~ Michael

I would use chrome cleaner. Turtle Wax makes one that can be had at Wal-Mart for less than a couple bucks. Always worked for me. ~ Tracy

Try "Mothers," you can get it at any parts store. It workes real good. You can also try "NEVER DULL" it also works real well on all types of stains. Good Luck. ~ Ron


OK. I've checked all of the things for my cruise that were on the maintenance site. All appears to be in order. I've even made sure the switch contacts were proper. Still no cruise, also no clock. are they related? I also need info on the toggle switch that is just to the right of the headlight (looking from the front) and just under the faring. What is it for? Any help would be appreciated. ~ Allen

Not sure on you cruise problem, but the swicth under the headlight is for the power to the CB "memory" when the bike is shut off. You need to keep that off when the bike sits for a long time, or it will slowly drain the battery. ~ Tom

Did you try the fuse? ~

You do know you have to be in 5th gear and above 35 for the cruise to engage. You do have the cruise control switch on. Make sure you don't have a brake light switch hanging up keeping power on the brake light circuit. You haven't jumped out the infamous clutch switch, have you? You might remove and check fuses one by one. ~ Walter ‘n Maryland

By the way Allen, is your speedometer working? Probably a stupid question but our cruise went out when the speedometer box went out ~ Nurse Ratchet in Ohio


I was attempting to take the RR shock off a parts bike and replace my leaker, when I took the hose off oil spirted everywhere. Did I ruin the shock? can I or do I replace the oil? if so how much goes back in? I cant tell how much came out. Is there a secret I should know before taking the other one off?

Also, beside the dealer is there anyplace that I can order a U joint? From looking at the pictures it looks like I have to get the complete propeller shaft. Thanks, ~ Roy in TX

Roy, Take the weight off of the shocks by lifting the rear-end on the centerstand. Let all of the air out Slowwwwwly by cracking open a fitting. Don't know how much goes in there or what type. ~ Tracy

Roy, the dealer is the only place for the propeller shaft. I had a driveshaft place here in South Bend look at mine, and he said he couldn't fix it. the u joints are staked in. One would need to press the old u joint out through the stakes, and then press a new one in and re stake. Apparently that takes a special jig of some sort. The new shaft is also a larger size and should hold up better,too. ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 Cavalcade LXE, 99 Kawasaki Nomad, South Bend, IN


Hi all: I was cleaning out my wallet and found a card from another 'Cader I met at a Husky truck stop at Hailebury. He too had just bought his Cavalcade this year, and had traveled to the East Coast. But, he had chosen a warmer month than September to travel and as a result, he ran into rain. His question was whether, when I encountered rain, my 'Cade developed an ignition problem, with one or more cylinders cutting out. I had to admit that I had not encountered the problem with my 'Cade; but he asked if I would ask the group, because it had been a major headache for him and he wanted to find a solution. Anybody out there had this problem? and if so, did they find the answer! Your assistance is greatly appreciated. ~ Bryan Sunset Rider, email:

I have the same problem. It is either a coil, plug wire or something related. It can sometimes be heard over the intercom. Much worse even on a damp day. Oh well, that is why we have winter here. It gives me a chance to remove the plastic and run the bike in the dark. Maybe I can see the spark jumping. ~ Jim

I have ridden in many a heavy rainstorm and never had a problem with the bike. I ride and '86 LX bought new in '86. ~ Mike

During the 15 years I owned the Cade, I had to replace all the spark plug caps on two occasions. The plastic would break down and allow leakage especially when wet. You can crank the bike up and use a long screwdriver to test. Hold the blade close to the spark plug cap and ground the shaft to the valve cover or something. You will probably see a blue spark jumping from the cap to the screwdriver blade. If the caps are leaking a lot, water will short them out completely and create a misfire. Happy Holidays! ~ David



Group, I have recently returned to the states, just spent the last three years in Holland, and am attempting to put my Cade back on the road. In order to ship my bike I had to remove the battery and am having a hard time finding a battery that will accept the battery sensor. That is, without paying $80-$100 for a battery from the local bike shops. Both of the batteries I have purchased were listed specifically for the Cade, but on both batteries the sensor was too big to fit. Are there different sensor sizes? Or, can someone repost how to bypass the sensor? Thanks for help. ~ Chuck K. ‘86 LX, Glad to be back in Georgia!

Chuck, Since the sensor is doing nothing but seeing the water level for you, there is no reason why you can't enlarge the stock hole to fit the Cade sensor. Hell, you can even drill a sensor hole in a battery that doesn't have it as long as you get it in the right place. There is nothing magic about it other than the sensor must be in the electrolyte of the correct cell. Use your old battery as a guide. If you get it too big, just put a little silicone sealer around it when you're done. There is also a way to defeat the sensor without losing other functionality, but I couldn't find it on the Cav website. I know it's in one of the newsletters but which one is the question. ~ Tracy

Chuck, The sensor elimination scheme is in issue #2 of the Cavalcade Newsletter. Just open it in Adobe Acrobat and do a find for the word "sensor" and it will take you right to it. ~ Tracy

I have been able to buy batteries through Kragens here in CA at a fairly reasonable price and with the cell available for the sensor. ~ Doug Jensen

Chuck, there are 2 different sizes of sensors. One is made to fit the batteries with the separate hole for the sensor - these probes are the smaller of the 2. There is also one that fits into one of the fill holes of a battery without the separate hole. I have an extra of the one that fits in the fill hole if you need it. ~ As for battery prices my battery just died after 6 years and I replaced it with a battery from an industrial battery supplier. I don't know who made it, but it is made for the Cavalcade and comes with the extra hole and a new sensor. Cost was $62.90 with sales tax (got it from Atlantic Battery in Watertown, Ma) same place I bought the last one. JC Whitney also lists one for the Cavalcade a lot cheaper than your local dealer. ~ Al from Mass


Wal-Mart also has one. Any 18AH will work. Also Batteries Plus but I'm not sure where they have stores. I'm in the centrally located awesome State of Wisconsin. But sometimes in the state of confusion. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau
"In the Woods"  Nekoosa, WI

I was able to use the one at Wal-Mart or even Sam's Club. They both had the sensor hole. The price here at Sam's was $29.99 for a Champion battery. ~ Don Dorion

If I remember correctly I had to drill it out. It's not a problem though. Before adding the acid, turn the battery upside down and drill. No plastic in the cell that way. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau "In the Woods"  Nekoosa, WI


I defeated that sensor by creating a wheatstone bridge: I soldered three 10k-ohm resistors in series and connected the sensor to the node between resistors 1 and 2. That way the sensor saw 4 volts and was happy, so then the other sensors would work, the lights, clock, kickstand indicator, etc. Since this causes the battery to drain an additional nearly half a milliamp, in addition to the already drainy 4 milliamps, I added a battery isolation switch, which really helps extend the battery life. I had been buying a new battery every two years, but since I added the isolator, I went ahead and bought a battery with a sensor hole and took off the resistors. I dont recommend the resistor idea. ~ Spike



I have received the left fairing half from Al Pomerleau. Have any of you tried to paint Cade plastic? The piece I have has been spray painted by some yahoo creating a rough surface. This will need to be sanded in order for me to have a vague chance at a decent finish. I am thinking of wet sanding with some fine grit, 400 at least. I am seriously considering just taking the piece to a real body shop and paying them to do it. Not my usual way of fixing motorcycles, but this Cade is special. Any suggestions? ~ Spike

Spike looks as though you answered your own questions (unless you have some body paint experience as I don't think the paint will be that easy to match up. The paint on mine is starting to go to the weather.  Some of the clear is chipping) and I'm thinking of a new paint job but it'll be a complete one and will attempt it myself as I have painted a few street rods. the 400 wet or dry sounds ok and a good coat of primer, being plastic I don't know if you'll need a flex agent in the paint or not so I'd definitely ask a PRO paint man about that. ~ Walter

I also just bought a lower right bottom for the front off e-bay. It is silver with the original sticker on it. I think the factory put on the silver base color that is under a lot of paints (I'm not sure of this). I want to paint it maroon like is on my 88LX. I think the deepness of color of maroon depends on how many color coats that are applied over the silver base before the clear coat is applied. Again I know little about painting and was told that my local Suzuki dealer had a guy that could paint for me. I have a HVLP paint setup that I have used to paint 2 small cars with at home in the driveway. They turned out ok with plain enamel auto paint but I have no other experience with the multi color and multi color coats that will end up matching my maroon Cade. I think that you Spike have a maroon Cade? I sure would like anyone to point me to color #'s for the 88 Cavalcades as I would like to try to paint it myself. ~ Joe in CO

Ja, I do have a maroon 86GTG. I don't know if the 88 LX is the same color as the 86 plain jane. Perhaps Tracy knows. If we don’t hear from him in a couple days, Ill try searching thru the CD to see if I can find paint numbers. My local Suzuki dealer isnt much help. I have a choice of 3 of them within 10 miles of my house and none of them want to work with me on the paint. I ordered a new fairing piece for 305 bucks! When it showed up, it was unpainted. {8-[ Why pay 305 clams when I would still need to paint it anyway? I sent it back. Al Pomerleau came thru for me. Anyhows, I plan to start sanding tomorrow, trying to get a nice smooth surface to start with, then we'll see how it works out. ~Spike


According to the Parts Book, the GTG was painted either Candy Bordeaux Maroon or Light Charcoal Metallic. The Maroons for the other models, however, are listed as Candy Luxury Maroon and Candy Liberty Maroon. They all carry different part numbers but I don't know how much difference there is between them. ~ Tracy


After looking at these cracked and brake fluid damaged inner faring pieces (black ones wirh glove boxes lh and rh)

I decided to replace them. I did with new ones from bike bandit. I had the one on the left on for about a week and noticed it starting to crack and break up around the level switch and CB controls. SOOOO I ordered another one and this time beefed it up on the back side with JB Weld and aluminum flashing material. It looked so good and was much beefer that the original, that I repaired the newer cracked one in the same way. By duplicating the pattern in flashing material and bonding the broken pieces to it. I sanded the repaired area , primed and painted it with flat black paint. I can hardly tell it's been repaired. Just thought I would pass this repair method along. Someone might want to repair one. Ride safe ~ Walter n Maryland

Walter, I have the same problem and probably more so. What were the part numbers and cost of those pieces? Keep the rubber side down. ~ Red Barber 86 LX Gold

Red: The part numbers are:RH INNER COWL 94421-24A01-291 $92.62 LH INNER COWL 94422-24A01-291 $92.62 PLUS S/H? You would be better off probably going onto their website and looking the numbers up as your application may not be the same as mine. You will have to register there is no cost for this and they have just about all the schematics for the cade, it may take you a little time to get used to the process,(did me) and just order from them they have a secure website. I have ordered 8 or 9 parts from them with no problem takes 7 to 10 days for parts to arrive IF they have no problem locating them, longest I've waited was 2 full weeks. Their website is lots of schematics most all bikes. Good luck! ~ Walter n Maryland



I have been seriously looking at some of the Gold Wind 1200 accessories, on the speculation they could be adapted to fit the cade. These accessories are 1. the Rider Back rest that appears to bolt up to the TOP shock bolt and someplace else?? 2. The passenger armrests these appear to bolt onto the rider hand holds???? 3. The rotor covers appear to be sandwiched into the front axle bolt??? If anyone has ever attempted OR know of any one who has, would you?? or have that person contact me, also the caliper covers look as with a slight MOD. they would work also. Thanking in advance. ~ Walter n Maryland

I had some caliper covers that were from the 1200 wing and the only mod that had to be done was for a cut/grove in the top to allow the brake pipe to pass. The fixing holes are the same as the Cade. I obtained these from a Cade owner in the USA who had done the mod. ~ Dave UK

Hey all I am planning on making a trailer hitch using "plan 3" on the web site. The plans look to be right on the money. Has anyone found anything that should be added or taken away from the building of this hitch, before I get started? Thanks! ~ Alvin Taylor


They are here!!! half covers, made just for our Cades. These are quick cover ups and you don't have to put your antennas down. They cover most of the windshield the seats and the trunk rack. They fit the LXE and LX and go on quick. The cost including shipping is $43.00 plus sales tax of $3.16 if you live in Texas. The website is This guy spent alot of time developing this cover to fit our oversized recliner on wheels, I know because he used me as a guinea pig. I just got one and am very happy with it. Thought I'd pass it along, I know some of you have been waiting for these. ~ Roy in TX


Hey All I went to a machine shop yesterday to have them do some work on my Cade. As we were talking, I talked of our group and the problems we are have in getting parts for our Cades, (Superbrace, floor boards, trailer hitches, etc). He stated that "If we need it he can make it and no group buy is required". He is using my bike to get the super brace and floorboard measurements. His shop is huge and very computerized and looking at other bike and machine parts that he has made, I have no doubt that if you ask for it and you give him the plans, he can make it. Call or email him with your questions. This is the information needed to contact him. Newark Precision Kevin Ault email: Phone: 740-349-9466 Newark Ohio


Hey folks, I just got a call from the guy at Superbrace and he said that the early '86 Superbraces are ready.

I had measured mine up and e-mailed in a detailed Cad drawing for them to work from. He also said that the later model Cade will be ready in a few weeks.

Phone: 800-322-4783 or 714-379-9661
Fax: 714-379-9693
SuperBrace Inc.
5362 Bolsa Unit C
Huntington Beach, CA 92649

~ Tracy


There is a product advertised on page 80 of the current issue {December 2001} of Rider magazine called the EZ Leaker. Before you go paying 49 dollars for such a device, do read of my own attempt at such a thing about 16 years ago. Soon after I got the cade, I noticed there was a drain hole just aft of the gas filler. This gave me an idea. Since I often rode across the Mojave desert, and out in places like Death Valley, where the temperature was often triple digits, one does not like to stop for any reason. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the left glove box in order to insert a plastic tube. I could then put a bag of ice in the left saddlebag and run a tube up thru that hole in order to drink profusely as I was riding, for you already know that there is not a good place to mount a water bottle on the cade. Most of the water thus ingested was eliminate by perspiration, however some still needed to be drained in the traditional fashion. Hoping to do so without actually stopping in the brutal heat, I fashioned a little invention not so different from the business end of the EZ Leaker, using a device which can be purchased for 4 bits in many gas station restrooms. Cutting off the end and using a rubber band to attach a piece of the plastic tube, I inserted the other end of the tube into that gasoline drain line and I was all set. Or so I thought. On one of those triple digit summer days, I set off across the desert, drinking the water as fast as it melted, which is to say, extremely. After an hour or so, I was ready to try out my new invention. I tried, nothing happened. So I drank more and within half an hour nature was calling, loudly. So once again I tried out my new invention but once again no success, as my mind was telling me, in its own subtle way that my mind uses to tell me such things: "SPIKE you IDIOT! You cannot piss while riding a MOTORCYCLE!" It was right of course. It refused to allow the appropriate sphincter to relax. Grimly determined to avoid wasting the 75 cents I had already invested in my clever invention, I drank still more water and pressed on, until my brain was on the receiving end of another set of subtle signals, these coming from below: SPIKE! Pull this motorcycle over NOW and drain the radiator! NOW! I let these two fight it out for a while, and eventually the lower region won out. {Doesn’t it always?} However it was a most difficult and trying experience, and furthermore, the aforementioned device from the gas station is not actually designed for this particular usage. So let us just say "one size fits none" and leave it at that. So before you blow 49 bucks on the device presented on page 80 of this month's Rider magazine, do fashion one yourself for 75 cents and see if you can make it work any better than I was able to. ~ Spike


All, I have them they are Gold and are NOS I opened them for the LH cowl. I needed that part for my bike that's all that's missing that I know of everything is in sealed bags. I'm asking 150.00 for them + is a pic. I believe it is too hot in Tx to use them. I got them from a fellow that owned a dealership and sold these to me with a few other parts like LXE louvers/Vents that are for dale by the way... thanks, ~ Dan:

I am subscribed to another motorcycle group and 1 of the members has a new set of adjustable air vents for sale. They are new and Lettgo gold in color. He is asking $150.00 + shipping.  Let me know if you are interested.  I have a complete set of my own but they are not for sale. ~ Jeff:



I need a rear bumper center section off an 86 LX. It can even be damaged as long as I can get about 8" of straight section out of it. This is another of my dumb projects. I want to use it on my sidecar. ~ Jim

Jim, You might want to contact Rick Gervasi at Gervasi Cycle Repair in Everett, Washington. Rick works on a lot of Cavalcades and has some used parts. He may have a damaged bumper that would suit your needs. Rick's number is 425-259-6875

I have decided to repair the wrecked bike. I need all of the black plastic panels that fill the inside of the fairing. Would also consider the left upper and lower fairing. The bike is an 86LX. ~ Jim


Hi, This is my first time on the net looking for parts. But I am sure now that I found you fellow riders I will be here for some time!!! Ok where to start, on Turkey Day my husband and I needed a ride. So as I am readying, he is warming the bike. Easy so far, now as he is about to go in the driveway, a little bitty bee decided to sting his leg, and that is when the trouble started. Now you know the first thing we all want to do is kill the bee. So did he and so he tried to hit at the bee with his left hand. Oh, now do you see the picture? Right! He lets go of the clutch and ran into the car, HARD! Now as you can imagine the car did not move. But, the bike that has never been in a accident did, in a rush the bike tried to move the big car (El Camino). Please have patience with me as I feel a little sick to my stomach all over again as I relive this horrible day. ~ So on the left side of our bike on the fairing we have a huge hole!!!! We need the left bottom panel and the foot cover also. The parts are L hand frame cover 47210-24800-7un and L handundercover 47220-24800 7un. If there is anyone out there who can help we would be so happy. Thank you and I hope to be hearing from you soon. ~ Patti and Leroy


There is a guy in E-bay that is parting out an 88 cavalcade I contacted him personally as to maybe selling the parts to club members, and he said it would be OK, so if you need PARTS, contact Him personally. He said the bike had suffered a FINAL DRIVE LOCK UP and was dumped on the left side and there was fairing damage, would also be wary of drive line parts,final drive, driveshaft, intermediate gear box as well as transmission. The reason for this was a DEALER/ SHOP had serviced the bike and FAILED to refill it <<<DUH>> SO when we service the FINAL DRIVE make SURE there IS OIL in it. (we know this RIGHT) Back to the parts. His name is Tom.Address tell him I referred you to him. ~ Walter ‘n Maryland


There is and old saying. "One mans JUNK ia another mans treasure" it also goes the other way, Walt sez! One mans treasure is another mans junk. The beauty is in the eye of the beholder. one man sees a motorcycle, another man sees parts. It's always good to know there may be another parts bike SOMEWHERE. We're dedicated Caders, we need to know where they are, there are alway's Two prices the sellers Price AND the BUYERS price. who knows Iffin they'd offered him 800 or 900 AS IS he might have taken it,might have even went lower. all we can do is notify each other of our findings. ON the subject of parts there's another seller on E-bay that is parting out an LXE, HE's a bike USED parts dealer in Delaware, ya might contact him at his address and work out a deal, DON'Tknow fer sure but it's worth a TRY I know he can probably get a LOT more off E-bay, than an outright
sale. but it's a lot less hassle. ~ Walter

I've had many dealings with Cole brothers over the years (when I lived in Southern Cal), they're a good resource for obscure used parts. It's also fun to see the stuff they have around there, they provide motorcycles (wreckers and runners) to the movie industry on occasion. ~ Brenden


I just can across a new set of Adjustable Air Vent Vents for the Cavalcade. If anyone is interested please e-mail me privately. ~ Jeff Watts ( )




1986 Cavalcade LX, AM/FM Stereo, new paint - maroon 21K miles, $3450 -- Delivery may be available; based on place & price. 860-635-0181 Doug Eves / 860-763-4990 Doug Days


I have a nice two tone blue 1986 LXE Cavalcade that I need to sell. Very nice. $3,800
4x8 trailer $500
Motorcycle floor jack $100

Harold Henderson E-Mail:


Made the ride to Cassoday Kansas yesterday. They have breakfast for motorcyle riders first Sunday of each month. I saw two other Cades there. Anybody in the group belong to them?

Hey-We were at Cassoday, Kansas in November. We were on the blue ‘86 Cade from Clark Co. KS and our friend from McPherson was on the brown ‘86 Cade. There was another one there from Coffeevile and it was maroon and gray. We saw another Cade but it didn’t stay around was that you? Are you planning on going to Cade 2002 in Branson? We hope to if all works out. Where are you from? Maybe we can get together and ride sometime. ~ Tom Yost, Blue on Blue, Riding for the Son

Big hello to everyone! Now that the riding season is over (we are in the middle of a major snow & wind storm right now) I have the time to fritter away on the computer. And introduce myself to the group...... I bought my '86 Cade this spring from a gentleman who had purchased it several years ago then parked it in his garage and forgot about it..... a little (lot) of work on the carbs, changed all the vital fluids, and the damn thing ran! From my brief glance through your newsletter, I find that I am suffering many of the woes that plague this machine: the cruise control doesn't work; the compressor/auto level doesn't work; I have a leak (somewhere) (the intermediate ? gear box) that results in a strong burnt gear oil smell and stained pipes after a ride; it is sometimes easy to start, other times it just about drains the battery before it kicks over; it runs hot in city traffic (which doesn't happen often, because I live 220 miles from the nearest urban center); my windshield is so badly scratched/crazed that I can't see through it when driving towards the sun (anyone have any experience with the replacement windshield from J.C. Whitney?); I don't have a problem with getting the monster up on the center stand (lots of practise with my '76 CB750A and my GL1000). But the beast runs like a scared cat!.... man, I have never owned a bike that loved to GET UP AND GO like this machine does - and what a beautiful ride, Lord but I do love it. Despite all the above, plus a slow leak in both tires (a can of Flat-Fix cured the problem.... (and don't anybody give me grief over using the stuff on motorcycle tires; I have been in this game since Christ was a cowboy, we all waved at each other, and it was standard practise to tighten down your steering head, lean back in the seat, and drive hundreds of miles without touching the handlebar.... sure I know better)..... I took my 'Cade on a 7000 plus (can't tell you exactly, because my speedo cable broke on day 2 of the trip, and I still haven't replaced it) mile tour through 5 states and 5 provinces...... from Northern Ontario through Michigan, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Nova Scotia, to Newfoundland, then back hove through Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Quebec and Southern Ontario. Three weeks of joy and bliss in the month of September (I was in Corner Brook, Newfoundland on September 11th..... you Americans have no idea how the rest of the free world grieved with you on that and subsequent days, but by God the Newfoundland people sure demonstrated their love and support and sympathy to all Americans stranded on their shores during that sad week!). I did learn that the 'Cade loves cold weather, as my last two days on the road were in sub-zero weather with the infrequent snow flurry. And now that winter has arrived up here in God's country, it is time to tear down my new machine, replace seals, and hopefully fix/repair/solve some to the problems that haunt this bike. Look forward to peeking in on the 'Cade site from time to time, and LOVE the newsletter (have printed off all 15 issues for reference purposes..... will read all issues before I start messing with the bowels of my machine). Take care, all....... and a belated Happy Thanksgiving to all you Yanks! Sunset Rider Northwestern Ontario Canada

Hey Brian, In case you missed it, the trick to easy cold starting of the Cavalcade is to switch the key on, put it in neutral with the clutch engaged. (don't pull on the lever) Push the "choke" lever all the way down. (Yah, I know it's not really a choke.) Then press and hold down the starter button. You will hear the fuel injectors load up with fuel. (click, click, click) When the clicking stops, pull back on the clutch lever and the starter will turn it over. If everything is in working order it should fire up immediately. ~ Jay

I wish the Cade's had injectors but it just ain't so. That clicking noise is the fuel pump bringing pressure up in the fuel lines. My Cade had a hard time starting when I hadn't run it for more than a couple of weeks (winter time in CA). I assume it because the rings dry up somewhat and there's a lack of compression occurring until they get wet again from splashing into the crankcase. One thing that helped my situation was changing to Mobil 1 15/50. I've used Spectrol and Amsoil and find them to be lacking but now run everything I own on Mobil 1 and am very pleased. If you insist on running with other oils then do this to start your cold Cade - set that choke and try starting it for a minute then let it rest for about 5 minutes. I've had good success at starting on round 2. ~ Doug Jensen, Nevada City - 60 miles from Tahoe

A trick I've used after mine sat for a couple of weeks in cold weather, is to set a holegen light under the oil pan (carfull not to get close to the plastic) let is sit there for about an half hour then start her up it may take 2- 3 times but normaly will start the first time. ~ Roy in TX


It's great to be hearing so much traffic from so many different places and new people. I only have one question. Why are we having trouble getting our state by state list to grow also? Maybe it's our promoter....wait I'M THE PROMOTER.......I better get pitching. ANYONE who would like to get on this list, please send a straight email to KennG at . I'll send you back the info I need from you and you can decide if you want to be listed. Please be reminded, I will NOT sell, trade, or give this info to anyone but list members. If you ain't on the list, you don't get a list, from me that is. Feel free to share it with your friends but remember....they won't get it from me unless they send me the info and I put them on the list. With a little luck, and a few more pitches, we may have an updated list out for Christmas.....well New Year's Americade - definitely. ALSO, If you were on the list and haven't gotten an update, feel free to contact me direct and we'll straighten out the mess.

Forgive me for promoting could always get on the state list and you would get a list of where a bunch are located. Of course, they'll get the same info on you cuz you gotta be on the list toget one. E-mail me at and I'll get you set up. Thank you. ~ KennG



El Campo Cycle Center has the following sweaters with "Suzuki Cavalcade" embroidered on them. They are $10.00 each plus shipping and TX Sales Tax (.0825%)

1 Large Cream Color

1 XLarge Camel Color

Contact Laura or Mat at 1-800-640-4391. My wife and I saw these the other day when we were in the shop. ~ Cademantx and Cadelady Harlan and Barbara Speidel Wharton, TX, 86LX, Gold


I am looking for a new pair motorcycle boots. I have always used some type of work boot in the past but thought I would take a look at some of the new technology. Any suggestions? What are you wearing? ~ Bob Morse 86LX

Bob, I also had worn a variety of non-motorcycle specific boots. I broke down 2 years ago & purchased a pair from Cruiserworks. I'm very happy with the choice though I was concerned about sizing as it was an e-mail purchase. Their sizes were true to what I normally wear in a boot/shoe. As an added benefit they are waterproof. I've been caught in the rain several times & there have been no leaks. They are also comfortable to wear off the bike. They are well insulated & can be a little hot for normal wear. In the hotest weather I carry an extra pair of shoes. When riding in the summer though, I've never had them feel too hot & they are great on cold days. ~ Roy from MD on an 86LX

A pair of 20" Georgia Boot pole climbers here ;-). At the time cheaper than motorcycle boots and the toe shift area (on both no less) is re-inforced for climbing spikes. Steel toe and shank, still very comfortable... waterproofed when necessary. They've lasted me 15 years so far, almost time for a new pair. ~ Brenden

Bob, We purchased for my husband a pair of Hi-Tec, Magnum Midnite Plus Wide #5200. These shoes come up just over his ankles. They do offer several styles--tall like regular boots. These are the shoes that many professionals wear--EMT's, police officers, etc. They are very lightweight but "tough". Harlan's other boots were just too darn heavy and cumbersome. Since this may not be what you want, I will give you the source of our purchase. . Billy, the owner, is very nice and accommodating. He has good prices and a big selection of boots. I found his prices to be the best. Good luck with your search. We definitely understand the frustration. ~ Barbara and Harlan Speidel


Dear Bob, My experience is like yours, just work boots. Maybe if they had some type of emblem on them and were sold in a motorcycle shop, I could brag that I paid $199 for them. Alas, I'll just paint on Suzuki with a magic marker and hope for the best. ~ Richard, ’86 LXE

I personally wear a square toed harness boot. It's a typical biker style that can be polished to a high shine. I prefer the brush shine. They're available through sportsman's made by H&H and I think my last pair was around $100.00. They last pretty good and are comfortable to me. They also have other types. You might want to check them out. Their sizes seem to run true. I wear a 9, ordered a 9 and they fit good. ~ Walter n Maryland

Like Walter I use square toed cowboy style boots -- they can be polished and since much of my riding is back and forth to work (office environment) they look good. The one's I have are Georgia Boot and they come in wide widths. They are about 12 inches high. If not going to work its insulated work boots. My preference is either Dunham or Timberland. Both are on the expensive side, but the insulation, 8" height, and padded collar add to comfort even when its chilly and the extra cost does seem to pay off in longer life. ~ Al from Mass

Bob... Around town I just wear sneakers... if only going a couple of blocks. If I'm going any distance, cowboy boots have been my choice. If I step off into something "deep" I don't need to worry about a mess. Also, I've noticed from my trucking days my feet never seem to get too hot or too cold in them. Good in an unexpected rain, too. I've two pair that have a ton of Neatsfoot oil on them for waterproofing. If I know I'm going to be in rain for an extended period, I have a pair of winter thermal superinsulatedguaranteedwaterproofed from Mason, but only use them if there's a lot of rain or super cold. Works for me. ~ Don


Don’t forget to send in your registration for CADE RAID 2002 & call to reserve your room at the Honeysuckle Inn.