The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #17 ~ December, 2001
Jay D. Johnson, Editor


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Dear Friends, Christmas is a special time to praise the Lord for the gift of His love that binds our hearts through every season of the year. This year, especially, Christmas provides us the opportunity to stand united. This is a time to reflect on our homes and focus on family and loved ones. We are blessed and give thanks for American freedom.
My family and I want to wish you a blessed Christmas, joy and happiness in the New Year. God bless, ~ Bob D. Indy / Gideon


I would just like to take this opportunity, to wish the best durn bunch of e-mail bikers, the happiest, merriest, Christmas and the most prosperous new year to come. Hope to see ya all, at Branson 2002. RIDE SAFE ~ Walter n Maryland


To all on the Cade list - A very Merry Christmas. May the Lord of peace fill your hearts this season and throughout this coming year. Looking forward to meeting many of you at Branson! Christ's Blessings upon you ~ Denny Potoczky 86 Cavalcade LXE 99 Kawasaki Nomad South Bend, IN


CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

      CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri. You can visit their web site at


      Plans include exhibits and displays by suppliers; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises. Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.


      You should get your reservation in early. There are only 65 rooms blocked for our group with a special discounted rate. Half of those are already reserved. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Owner’s Group meeting (“CADE RAID 2002”) to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a rate of $55.00 per night. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer. The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553. Those who wait until the last minute will have a difficult time finding lodging.




European Cade Raid 2002

June 1st to June 7th. at:

Dairyfarm Camping Sotterum

Sotterumerdijk 11

NL 8753 JA Cornwerd

Tel: 00 31 515 231573

Fax: 00 31 515 233211


Internet: Rabobank Bolsward: 308740920





West Coasters, Everyone should plan to arrive at Tahoe on Saturday evening July 20th. We will have a breakfast meeting next morning, Sunday, July 21st. After the meeting, we will take a scenic ride. I have spies in the Tahoe area now who are planning the ride’s route. Everyone will be provided a map just so no one gets lost (mainly me). Sunday evening we will regroup for dinner. Next morning (Monday) we will head for home.


There will be no cost for this gathering other than the normal cost of gas, lodging and meals. I will see what I can do to get us a group rate for the breakfast and dinner on Sunday. I will arrange the location(s) for these Sunday meals. But in order to do that, I will need some idea of how many people are planning to come. If you think you will come to the West Coast Cade Raid at South Lake Tahoe, please send me an email ( and give me your name(s) and your location. I’ll see if I can match up riders so you can share the road together. This information will help me judge how many people we will need to feed at these two meals.


Riders from Washington State and British Columbia should plan on staying over on the night of July 19th at Grants Pass, Oregon. We will arrange a meeting point in Fife, Washington that morning. Contact me for details including a list of motels in South Lake Tahoe. ~ Jay



West Coasters, I have arranged our breakfast and dinner for Sunday, July 21 at Mulligan’s Restaurant in South Lake Tahoe. The breakfast will probably be a buffet unless we have less than 20 people, in which case we will order off a menu. Dinner will probably off the menu regardless of our numbers. I have scheduled the breakfast for 8:00 a.m. This will give us time for everyone to eat, chat and even have a brief meeting if we wish. After breakfast, we will have a group ride to some of the most scenic mountain country in Western America. Because of the number of us on this ride and the remote area we will be touring, I suggest we contract someone to prepare a box lunch and beverage for us to pack on the bikes. We can pick a nice spot to park and munch somewhere along the way. I have scheduled dinner for 7:00 p.m. This will give us time to complete a full day’s tour and still have an hour or so to clean up and refresh by dinnertime. Mulligan’s is next door to the Super 8 Motel. This is my bedroom of choice when I am on the road. I have found the chain to be newer, cleaner and quieter than most Motel 6 locations. The cost is a few bucks more but is still substantially lower than everyone else. I have priced seven motels in South Lake Tahoe including a couple of independents and the Super 8 is the best value. Almost all the rest are priced at $100 per night and up. Our rate for the two nights (Saturday and Sunday, July 20-21) at Super 8 will be $166.00 for a room with a single king sized bed. Or, $217.00 for a room with two double beds. These figures are for TWO NIGHTS include sales tax. If you want to request to share a room with someone else, I will be happy to try to arrange a roommate so you can split expenses. You will just need to make reservations and payment direct to the motel, not through me. The telephone number for the Super 8 is 530-544-3476, or you can reserve your room at their national reservation number, 1-800-800-8000. Reserve the nights of July 20 and 21, 2002 at the South Lake Tahoe Super 8. In addition, if you have a Super 8 Gold Card (which is black, by the way), or belong to AARP, you will get an additional 10% discount. I don’t think there is a charge for the Super 8 Gold Card. You can go to the nearest one near you, fill out an application and mail it to their franchise headquarters. Several of us will also be using other Super 8 locations on the route to Branson. ~ Jay ‘86 LXE, "Blue on Blue," Sammamish, Washington USA




Plans are pending for a Cavalcade gathering in the Lone Star State. The date and location have not yet been selected.




(Editor’s Note: Because the weather is now chilly in most places and because we have many new members, I thought it would be a good idea to re-print the following:)

Do you know that the Cade has heater vents? They are located up front inside the engine area. If you look at the Cade from the side you will notice just in front of the rear (engine) cylinder, the bodywork will have a small black piece which comes down and forms a triangle shaped space. If you reach your hand in that triangle shaped space, keeping your hand flat and reaching straight forward (toward the front of the bike), you will feel a lip next to the front part of the engine. If you place your fingers on the inside of this lip and pry the fingers outwards, you will open a heat vent that will pull engine heat out to warm the front and backs of your lower legs.

If these are open in the summer the heat is horrible at a stoplight and you can feel it during riding too.

During the cooler days, you open these and you will feel warmth wrapping around you at slow speeds but I really feel its benefit at 55 mph+.

FYI, You can do this even if the engine is hot, just be careful. If you shine a flashlight into this area aiming it towards the front you will see the vent and maybe get a better idea of what I am talking about. I owned my
Cade for 6 months before I was aware of these vents. They really do help.

(Important Note: Do not attempt to open or close these vents while you are riding. It's almost impossible to do while you are riding, plus it is very dangerous to try.) ~ Gary Fairfield



The Cavalcade was designed with Summer/Winter riding vents. For summer riding, close the two lower vents (ones described above) and open the two upper vents that are on either side of the ignition cowling. Reverse this procedure for winter riding.

In winter, this system is designed to put a column of warm air on the shins of your legs and onto your hands at the handlebar grips. In the summer, it is designed to bring the air into the rider's environment, without passing it through the radiator or over the engine. This system really does work! ~ Art, Glendale, AZ



How do you start a Cavalcade in the winter when it’s cold? ~ Sam, Arkansas


I've always had trouble starting my Cade in cold weather. I'm usually successful using no choke and a very slight throttle opening. I emphasize slight. The engine will fire enough to run and then you can slowly close the choke to increase idle till it's on it's own. Any thing below 30-degree temps and I have to use this method. Normal starting works after the bike has been warmed up. Even after stopping for a while. I hope you get other responses from folks who live in this climate. Maybe some body else has a better way. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau "In The Woods" Nekoosa, WI


Ok, this one will light up some controversy. When I removed my false tank and cleaned the air filter I drilled a hole in the air filter cover. That hole is now accessible when I open the fuel filler door. I use a 1-second shot of starting fluid using the red extender tube found on cans like wd-40. With full choke and that 1-sec blast on the air filter I have had no starting problem at any temp. For me at least, it has never failed to start within the first second. Living at about 5500ft the compression is slightly lower so I'm telling myself that it is not hurting anything. Please don't try this without some other advice. I'm the type of person who has always screwed with things that are not broken and in the process sometimes royally screwed myself. So, I always know what I'm doing (G). ~ Joe


First you'll need a fully charged good battery. (I keep mine on a tender in the winter, as cold and the clock etc, will discharge it.) Turn on the key. Do not squeeze the clutch. Press the start button you will hear the fuel pump filling the carb bowls. When this pumping sound stops. Release the button. Pull choke. Squeeze the clutch handle, press the start button. Do not hold button longer than the manufacturer states. The starter will overheat and damage is likely to occur. I have always kept the habit of squeezing the clutch and then pressing the start button, as any arching of contacts that might occur in this process is better left to the heftier starter button contacts, than to the clutch switch. And it will work in reverse by holding the start button and then squeezing the clutch. I have found that with just a week or so sitting in the winter the battery is down enough to make starting a little difficult on a cold day. The voltmeter I have on my bike shows me the voltage of the system as soon as I turn the key on, and if it's down around 10 or 11 volts I might not even try to start the bike till I have charged the battery. This is my start procedure and has always worked for me.


Another thing to keep in mind on cold days is engine oil viscosity. If you have gone to 20w50 for summer riding you might want to change it, to lighter oil. I owned an 83 Virago and Yamaha stated not to open the throttle on the start process as the cylinders would fill, build the compression and make starting actually harder. Yamaha Viragos didn't have the best starters on them. I have also seen guys turn and turn on the throttle as if to pump gas into the cylinders. This won't work, because your carbs have no accelerator pump, only a start circuit as it's called. As I live just a little above sea level, I haven't had to resort to start fluid as of yet. But I’ve heard of too much being used and diluting the residual oil in the cylinders. This causes problems in the ring and piston area. The only oil that's there on start up is what's left at shut down. Until it starts pumping oil again this area isn't lubricated. ~ Walter n Maryland


When my Cade is cold I pull the choke all the way on and it cranks fast but has a little cough as if its has a little back fire throughout the carbs. I ease the choke off a little at a time and just set there until its warm. It takes about 2--3 minutes and its ready. Boy did I really screw up riding mine back home from where I bought it. It was about 250 miles and being diabetic and no feeling in my upper feet I burned both ankles on the engine and its healing real slow and causing my blood sugar to climb at times---just not thinking at times ~ Richie



Hey All, When pulling a trailer, do you use safety chains? I read the article on the CD about using the chains. However, some friends at work are saying that if the trailer jumps the ball, the trailer will pull the bike causing the rear tire to break from the ground, which will cause the bike to lose control. Is this true? I know that having chains is the law in some states. So, what do my Caders friends out there do? Chains or no chains.


I use my trailer chains. Brian 87LXE in CT


Alvin my best bud lol...these buckeyes use chains crisscrossed under the hitch...can't wait to see your rig...we gotta get some biking done soon...The ratchet lady...IN Ohio


OK! That does it for me then. If my best Buckeye buds (Lar and Nancy) use chains, then I will too. Thanks for the advice everyone. Back to the Hardware shop for me.


The State of Maryland requires that All towed vehicles, trailers cars etc. have safety chains. There isn't much chance of the hitch jumping the ball if you hook up the hitch PROPERLY. And DON'T forget to SNAP AND LOCK the hitch to the ball. I always use a padlock for this purpose as it keeps honest people honest, in case they take a liking to your trailer. And also when I am towing or Hauling for that matter, if I even THINK there might be something I forgot or need to check I pull Off the road and check it, good practice to get into, sort of like being responsible for a SEMI. Double check at all fuel stops coffee stops lunch stops. Also make sure BAG tops are secured and locked if there is any play in the locking mechanism RIDE SAFE>>> TOW SAFE>> ENJOY your trailer ~ Walter n Maryland



Trailer Towing (Safety First) compliments of: Fred Burger motorcycle trailers Or .net
845-339-3390 / 888-458-3390
1~) Check all lights and tire pressure before trip and every few hundred miles...Do a walk around at every gas stop...
2~) Check lug nuts periodically. Grease bearings once a year or every 2~3 thousand miles... Bearing buddies work nice...
3~) Maintain 15 to 20 pounds of tongue weight at ball... Use bathroom scale placed on solid surface, same height as ball... Pack trailer
to achieve proper 15 to 20 pounds... Don't load up cooler before leaving on trip, load up at destination... But, if you do counter- balance heavier items in trailer to the back.
4~) Don't overload trailer...Don't put heavy items on roof rack, like animals... Would you like to breathe exhaust fumes? Also can make trailer top heavy...
5~) Your bike is now twice as long...Be sure you have enough room when passing to pull back in. Always signal...Hand signals work well, but finger signals don't... Respect others...

6~) Allow more time to stop...Down shift to slow down...Remember, both brakes for fast stop...
7~) Cargo trailers should have 20 pounds of air pressure... Campers 25 to 30... Tires will not get hot and gives a softer ride...
8~) Remember, trailer may be an inch or two wider than handlebars... Watch curb at toll booths and when parking... Watch potholes in road.
9~) Don't ride down center of your lane, that's where the oil is... Half way between center of your lane and the center line, or, center of your lane and pavement edge is proper area to ride... Trailers are 38"~44" average width
same as touring bikes handlebars width across to each outer edge...
10~) On very windy days I find that a trailer may help to stabilize the bike... don't get over-confident, could change instantly...
11~) It's very easy to forget trailer is behind you... Ride safe and be aware...
12~) Use safety chains, most states require them. Proper chain length should be, if trailer becomes disconnected from ball, it should rest on crossed chains and not touch ground...

13~) Always lock or bolt coupler on trailer ball. Also, if you have a receiver hitch, be sure the pin is in and lock that also...
14~) If possible, remove some weight from saddlebags and trunk, that's what the trailer is for

15~) Homemade trailer info: Too short a tongue, also not enough tongue weight can cause trailer to wigwag at about 50 mph. Rule of thumb: Ball to center of axle should be twice the distance as center to center on tire...
Example: 3' tire to tire center needs 6' from axle to ball coupler. Longer doesn’t effect it

16~) Swivels for trailers is a nice option, but not a necessity...A coupler has a 28 degree movement in every direction and will not bind... But if your bike should tip over a swivel is then appreciated... can be added any time...
17~) Do not overload manufacturers recommended weight capacity...My rule of thumb is: 13 lbs. for each cubic foot of cargo space... So a trailer with 18 cubic feet of cargo space X the 13 pounds per cubic foot, equals 234 lbs.
18~) Never leave home without a can of instant tire flat and a tire plug repair kit...Rubber bungie cords are handy also in various sizes.
19~) Drinking or drugs while driving is stupid... And on a motorcycle will probably be fatal. Read prescription drugs for side effects...
20~) Last, for 2 up riders... You're tired, been riding all day. You’re getting gas, your love one went to get directions but you know you’re not lost. Don't take off without her or him. It will not make for a good day when she/he catches up with you. Enjoy each other’s company, when you stop for the night leave TV off. Talk or read, maybe take a little walk.
The above may be copied... Keep one in your trailer for reference... Make copies for your friends or club members... If I can help with an answer to your question, call me, if I don't know it, we will try and get it for you...

~ Fred Burger

I have been pulling trailers since 1983 with both my Honda 83 GoldWing and my 87 Harley FLHTC... Have many thousand miles pulling trailers including a 12' row boat... I have campers-cargo-carry by Timeout, Cycle Mate, Easy Hauler, Backwoods, Bungalow & Kendon. Please call first we ride also. Thank you...
Fred Burger "Trailers" Visit our historic Hudson valley & majestic Catskill Mts. both with beautiful picture
taking views... Enjoy a river boat cruise or tour any of 4 museums. More with-in a 1/2-hour ride. Reasonably priced motels, camping, fine dining and fantastic touring area.



I like the web site keep up the good news and updates. I would like to know the top mileage so far? ~ Glenn

Hi Glenn, An interesting question. Rick Gervasi is the Cavalcade mechanic here in the northwest and I believe I heard him say he has worked on at least one Cavalcade with over 200,000 miles. But, I can't swear to it. ~ Jay


My 86 Cade has about 57,000 miles on it and purrs like a kitten. Had front end work, brakes, one tune up, several sets of tires (3rd set that I had put on), 3rd or 4th battery, 3rd windshield, fluids are changed once or twice a year, rear brakes once, and actually that's about all. These are mostly highway miles. Had it since Nov. of 1988. Only had 2400 miles on it. Been to 42 states and about 1/2 of Lower Canada on it. Just love the hell out it. Be retiring in about 2 or 3 years and hope to be riding it then too. Great bike. Not the most miles, but some wonderful ones together. Forgot to mention I also had an 86 Cade I rode during part of that time that was sold with about 99000 miles. Then I used this one all the time. That one was pretty trouble free also. Enjoy what you have because they are becoming fewer. Happy Holidays everyone. ~ Dalwyn Waters


Regarding the high mileage record... I've personally seen one at Cole Bros. shop (owned by NBC Studios) that has over 180K on it. BTW, if Gary gets enough callers asking for parts on the ‘87 he took in trade, he'll part it out. 818-980-4643


Almost exactly three months after crashing the oldest single-owner Cade in history... (continued below) ~ Spike


Spike, I am curious about your statement "the oldest single-owner Cade in history". How old is your Cade? Our Cade, Gideon, was manufactured 4/85. It is a maroon GT. My wife and I purchased it new after taking a demo ride at the Aspencade Spring Motorcyclists Convention in New York. That convention is now called Americade.

Aspencade ‘85 was great. But the Cavalcade was and is even more spectacular! At least I think so. God Bless. ~

Bob D., Indy / “Gideon”


I'm working on one right now built 02/85 oldest one I've seen 12,000 miles on it. Last licensed 1989. ~ Phil


Mine, was manufactured in 3/85. ~ Gerry in NY



Bet I have the newest ‘88 out there, it now has 3,158 miles on it and do I love this motorcycle. ~ Richie



OK, Now I am officially confused. I've been insisting to everyone that the 1986 Cavalcade was the first model manufactured, even if some of them were sold back in late '85. But if they were actually building and selling Cavalcades in February of 1985, what model year would they be? If there are actually 1985 Cavalcades out there, I need to make some changes on the web site. Does anyone know if there were 1985 Cavalcades sold? ~ Jay


Jay, According to the info on the parts microfiche, the "Cavalcade" was produced from '86 though '88. I know there are some '85 GT's out there but officially, the GD was a true "Cavalcade". Now, before I get a rash of nasty e-mails from GT owners, here's a little more. In the articles section of the Cav CD, the earliest articles on the GD Cav are August of 1985. And, in one of those articles it actually says that it is a 1985 model. However, these are articles on the "new" Cavalcade but didn't even come out until August of 1985. That doesn’t seem quite right. If you have a 1985 model of something, the "new" articles are almost always out late in the preceding year or very early in the production year. Officially, I don't believe that Suzuki had the bike done for a typical 1985 release (normally late in the preceding year). This could explain why some of the earliest production dates are 3/85. Think about it. Made in March. Shipped across the ocean ad actually displayed on the showroom floor (a month maybe). April of the production year is kinda late to be delivering the first bikes. Also, some Cavers have mentioned that they bought in 1989 and even 1990 while the parts book only goes to 1988. I believe that Suzuki ended up with a lot of bikes that didn't sell and the carryover lasted awhile. Gold wings ruled the market and, obviously, that's why Suzuki only made the Cav for 3 years (officially) and took 5 years to sell them. Too bad, Wingers (even new owners) look at this old beast and still find it more of a comfy touring bike than the Wing will ever be. If anyone else has some info on the production years, it would interesting if it proves me completely wrong and talking out of my ass or whether my spewing is right on the money. ~ Tracy


I sort of go along with Tracy's explanation of the year confusions. Because those years there were a lot of bike manufacturer's that flooded the market.  The Cade was built in ‘85 to be introduced into the American market as a ’86. It was manufactured in Japan until ’88. Any holdovers became the ‘89 and ‘90 models. Rider’s magazines tested them in ‘85 so they could have the reports out for the start of the 86 model year. Just as our auto makers start releasing the next years models early. Sort of what's happened to the Kawasaki Voyager. I understand they stopped or are going to stop manufacturing them. But they will be sold until they're all gone. Any parts info I have looked at state ‘86 to ‘88 with the stipulation as engine number to so and so and engine numbers, so and so on. Now, can anyone stipulate a G model GVG GVD H or J model? ~ Walter n Maryland


Maybe I'm wrong (but I don't think so) the Cavalcade was introduced in the year 1985 but was designated as a 1986. Much like many cars and trucks are introduced or released right after the first of each year. You might ask why? Well it gives you a year and a half of sales for a single model year. Plus it gives the customer a year and a half of "trade-in Value". "It's really an '85 but titled '86" for a year and a half instead of 12 months. Two more cents to the kitty. ~ Dick Carter V-Beach VA


As far as I know Suzuki still called them 1986 although people did register them as 1985. ~ Phil


Well, we know that Spike saw the Cavalcade prototype being road tested by Grace Butcher and Tak Ishi for Rider Magazine in the spring of 1985. My question is "When did the first Cavalcade hit the dealer's floor?" ~ Jay


I think the time they hit the dealer floor depends on if they had advance orders. When I came chuffing home from Monterey on my GS850, I went to my local bike shop and told him that if he ordered a cavalcade I would buy it. I did. There was only one other Cade sold in that town (Ridgecrest, Taxifornia) in the next 5 years. I might add that when I saw Butcher and Ishi riding the Cade in Monterey, there were no markings on it at all. But it was not difficult to tell it was a Suzuki. The engine had some styling cues that matched the Madura. ~ Spike



After my last post I went to a JULY ‘85 CYCLE magazine article that covers the road test they did, now this test was probably done a month earlier say June ‘85 and they also listed the year model tested as an ’86. So that sort of substantiates Tracy's theory. I also went to BIKE BANDIT schematics they list parts for GCG, GDG, GTG, GCH, GTC, GDM, GDJ, F, H, J. Does any one know these differences, and just how do we know? I had a question asked of me the other night. There is said to be a beefier U-joint assembly for the later model Cades. Will it still fit the earlier bikes? I can only say they list only one part number for the trailing arm assembly, and only one part number for the boot. There are two part numbers for the drive shaft, one for the G/H and one for the J. This leads me to believe the larger u-joint will fit into the earlier trailing arm also if the J model is truly the one with the larger u-joint. Also, would any one have knowledge of recalls that Suzuki did on the Cade or modifications that were to be done by the dealers? There is also a dealer known breakdown of the serial number like manufacture year model (specific) that might also be helpful sort of like an auto serial number, i.e.: 13 number is year, 14th number is paint number etc; can any one answer these questions? If so we should also post them on the Suzuki site. Something to research and ponder. Ride safe (those of you that can ride this time of year) ~ Walter n Maryland


I tried both part numbers at Bike Bandit and they both show the same Bike Bandit part #. I think they send the later one no matter which part is ordered. ~ Jim


The one I’m working on is a 02/85 last part of ser# 000112 and it is a GD model ~ Phil


I got off my lazy butt and found this in the archives: I think this means I have the 3021st GTG built. So much for my notion of having the oldest single owner GTG. Evidently there were plenty of them that were older and probably a bunch of them still in service. I am assuming they restarted the serial numbers every year and for every model? And didn’t skip any numbers? Are any of you guys with the 87s and 88s willing to post me off list or on list your serial numbers? I want to establish whether or not they restarted the numbering each year. If they didn’t restart at 100001 each year and each model, then we might be able to estimate the total number of Cades built, and in what proportions. Serial number poker! I have two pair, a pair of aces and a pair of 0s. 0s should be wild cards. ~ Spike


My 88LX has a #JS1VX71A4J2100216 so three pair! How much is in the pot Spike? Joe in CO


HMMM, three pair. I’m not sure if that beats a full house or what. Joe, I think you have the 216th LX built in 1988. OK that establishes that Suzuki evidently started over the count each year. But I still don’t know for sure if they started over with each model. I know the GTG was only made one year (the one without the radios and gazzazzafratzes.) I’m kinda surprised if they started over with each model, because that means they had built at least 3021 of them by May of 1985, and I have only seen a couple other GTGs ever. Most buyers ponied up the extra clams for the goodies. I was a 24-year-old child at the time, and couldn’t do the extra. Now, I suppose they *could* have imported all the ‘86 Cades by early ‘85, trying to beat the Reagan tariff on Japanese bikes or something. ~ Spike


For parts considerations, the frame number is always expressed as a 6 digit number (1xxxxx). However, since the base frame number always starts with 21, and the 1 is part of the 6 digits, then the 5 digits following the 1 should (I said should!), denote the actual production number of the frame. As for the JS1VX71A prefix, one could assume that it is a DOT requirement that denotes the country of origin (J for Japan), the maker (S for Suzuki), and DOT model designation (VX71A). That would be just a guess, though. ~ Tracy


Tracy, do you know if there was a special Taxifornia model and a 49-state model? I seem to recall a lotza bikes had that in those days, and some perhaps still do. ~ Spike


Yes, CA had it's own model. A few parts different. Mostly for the emissions but some rather odd things that had nothing to do with that. ~ Tracy


Mine’s JS1VX71A5G2100234 does that mean mine was the 234th GDG built in '86? ~ Dan


JS1VX71AXG2106771 mileage 95868. I don't know year of manufacture can't read it. ~ Tom


Tom, the G before the 2 indicates you have an 86, and it is unfortunate you cannot read the manufacture date, since you have the youngest 86 that I’ve found so far. Consequently, that date may be the missing piece of the puzzle. Good chance it is about a May or June 1986, judging from the second youngest 86, number 6068 made in March 1986 ridden by Roy in TX. Yours is also the only one I've seen that has an X between the A and the G. ~ Spike


Spike, Add Gideon to your list. I am the original owner. Serial model date 102010 GTG 4/85 ~ Bob Dillon


OK, done. You have the oldest single-owner GTG that we know of. Do let me know if Gideon's for sale. ~ Spike


Okay Spike, just for you I put on the woolies and boots to go out in the sub zero temp and here is what my bike say's XG2105882 3/86 it’s not what you are looking for but now you have mine. I am the third or fourth owner and the last. ~ Terry, ’86, LX


OK, with the preliminary 13 VINs and 11 dates I have so far, the 9000 Cades built is starting to look like a very reasonable number. I’m able to estimate that there were about 7000 built as 86 models, perhaps 1500 H models (‘87) and about 500ish J models (‘88s and ‘89s.) Two pieces of info I will need is the manufacture date on Randy from Ontario's bike and the date for Tom Hairwood's (it isn't legible. Perhaps his title will have that info.) From Randy's date we might get nearly the last of the Js, and from Tom's date the latest of the 86s. If I get more VINs and dates, we can estimate the ebb and flow of the cavalcade assembly line. Thanks to all who've helped with the VIN puzzle! ~ Spike


Hey Spike; add this one to your list. JS1VX71A1G2100523, 86 LX, 116,000 miles. ~ Wolf3746


Tracy Presnell wrote: Yeah! They wanted to try 'em out on the Canadians first. Probably figured if they messed up real bad, Canadians would be less likely to bitch! Canadians as a group do seem to be an even-tempered bunch. After all, Jean's last name does start with Saint. ~ I pulled my starter motor off today with 30k. I wanted to inspect the brushes and change them out prophylactically. Turns out the brushes looked brand new. I couldn't tell there was a bit of wear, and the bearings were also good as new. After inspecting, I ended up putting the starter motor back together without changing any parts. Pretty good for a nearly 17 yr. old bike, eh? I have been repeatedly impressed with the sturdiness of the basic design of the Cade and all of Suzuki's stuff since about 1980. Good quality, solid design. The assembly line may occasionally show some signs of casual workmanship. ~ Spike


OK now I'm interested in this VIN # thing, mine is as follows: js1vx71a9h2100237 currently 9340 miles, 3rd owner and it's an LXE model black and gray ~ Marlon Chouinard


COOL! Now we have a really low-numbered 87, so if Marlon will tell us his manufacture date, we can estimate when the Cade assembly line switched over to the '87 model year. I’m guessing it was about July 86. When, Marlon? ~ Spike


JS1VX7A262104872 02/86 55222miles GV1400GVG I am the 3rd owner and bought it in Seattle. I believe it was bought there new. Excellent condition and stock. No CB. ~ Doug Fuller, Nanaimo, BC


Hey spike, I forgot to add year built, 2-85. I’m the second owner. ~ Wolf3746 ~ James


 James, do check that date again. I have some interesting preliminary findings from the VIN project. Of the 17 number I have so far, 14 of them are the ‘86 model. Two are ‘87s and only one is an ‘88. So now I’m thinking there were about 7500 Gs built, 1000 or so Hs and about 500 Js. (Or if I want to use Baysian probability techniques, 7411 Gs, 1058 Hs and 529 Js.) Of the 14 who have told me GT, LX or LXE, there are 3 GTs, 6 GDs (LXs) and 5 GCs (LXEs). If Jean St-Pierre, Gerry in NY, and Roy in TX would tell me what level of trim their bikes are, I could fill this on out. The most valuable pieces of information still out are the dates on Tom Hairwood's and Marlon Chouinard's bikes. Tom's date is illegible. Too bad for us. ~ Spike


I just ran out and checked mine was manufactured 11/86 ~ Marlon Chouinard


Thanks Marlon! This does present a puzzle now. Did they start the 87 line late in the year? Or did they just start slow, building only 237 bikes between August and November? We need Tom's date to solve the mystery. And it's illegible. As they say in Tayunessee, dayam. Unless someone else has a G serial number higher than 6771 and a legible date, the world may never know. ~ Spike


I don’t know if this will be any help but my Cade production date is 4-85 with last VIN # 2093. ~ Ronald


Here is mine: VIN JS1VX71A2G2101695, 2nd owner, 88,000 miles, Two tone brown, 86LXE ~ Bob Richey, Marshall VA


Here's a curiosity: The two oldest Cades and the youngest are all three owned by Canadians. I only have 4 Canucks on the list of 27 and three of them are at the extremes. Cool! ~ Spike


I have an 87 LX, VIN # js1vx71a9h2100503, 25,258 miles, 3rd owner. Bike’s in the shop, unsure when it was manufactured. ~ Micky Gray ‘87 LX


Spike, #102818 can't read production date ‘86 GT, 28,185 miles second owner, BUT first to ride the bike (long story...) ~ Bob G.


Spike, my VIN is 01329, build date 3/85, two tone brown LX, at least 3rd owner, 49198 miles. The VIN seems high for early build? ~ Bruce


Marlon, our bikes must have been made the same week. Mine's an '87 LXE Black and Grey -- last 6 digits 100241 (serial #'s only 4 numbers apart) -- GC model date of manufacture 11/86. Current mileage is 50,224. And so far outside of normal maintenance items nothing has worn out. I also have a parts bike: '88 LX, last 6 digits 100097 -- GD model, date of manufacture 1/88. ~ Al from Mass


My vin # JS1VX71A3G2104993, Blue on Blue LXE, 29,780 Miles, sorry no build date, it was removed from the tag when brake fluid from the leaking clutch slave cylinder leaked on it. ~ Fitz in Texas


Didn't someone post that there was an owner with a Cade still in the crate? Maybe it's the # 00001. ~ Dan Haley


VIN-- JS1VX71A5J2100029, GV1400GDJ, Manufactured-1/88, Silver/dark silver, 3,290 miles on it. It’s the last picture on #8 in Cavalcade site. I've looked at all of the pictures and mine is the only silver one I've seen--or maybe I missed it. ~ Richard Gray, Meridian, MS.


JS1VX71A 5G103134, manufactured 5/85, 88,000 miles, LXE, two-toned brown, 2nd owner but had it since '88 when it had 17,000 miles on it. It was purchased in Southern California. ~ Doug Jensen, Nevada City, CA.


Cavalcade owners, Thanks to all who added to the Cade VIN list. Anyone who wants to may still submit their VIN numbers and manufacture dates. The full list is available to everyone who is on it, but I will include some findings with what I currently have. In a few days I will email the list to the 32 owners who are currently on the list, which includes 36 bikes (4 owners have two Cades.) I did a little searching and found out why nearly all the Cades are 86 models even though most of them were actually built in 1985. In 1983, Ron Reagan slapped on a 45% tariff on Japanese bikes over 700cc. That tariff dropped to 35% in 84, 25% in 85 and 15% in 86. By the obscure import rules in place at the time, Suzuki managed to get the Cades built in 85 to be considered an 86 model year, thus lowering the tariff. Even still, the first Cades evidently went to Canada and Europe. The Swedish and Norwegian cavalcade site says that about 9000 Cades were built. This rings true with the numbers we have collected. It now looks as though nearly half the Cades ever produced were actually built in 1985. It looks as though the assembly line was hot from Feb 85 to about July 85. They must have reduced production some time that fall of 85, starting back up in ernest in early 1986. That production year was short, for the Cade was a slow starter. The '87 model year started in November '86 and evidently shut down four months later. The line restarted again in January 88 to make a few more, but J models are relatively scarce. If you had a Cade in those days, you may recall that the early press was tepid. I was surprised at the time at how little was said about this cool bike. This may explain why the assembly line was slow after the initial production. It is likely that these early models were not big sellers. This explains why over 80 percent of the Cades are the '86 model, 11 percent the '87 H model and about 8 percent the 88 and 89 J model. Slightly over half the existing Cades are the LX (52%), a third of them are the LXE and the remaining sixth are the stripper. It surprised me to learn that almost 90% of the Cades are on at least their second owner. The average mileage for those who reported is just over 50k. The following list is of the ones I have so far and the dates of manufacture. If you see your VIN with some info missing, do post it to me off list and I will include it. I suspect a lot of owners are away and may still want to be on the list. In a couple weeks I will post a list like this one with the entries yet to come. The rest of the info on the list will not be posted here, as I originally said only those on the list could access that, for privacy purposes. I don’t want to crottle anyone’s greeps. I've never liked crottled greeps myself. If someone wants to post this on their Cade site, or if the Europeans want to use it on their sites, do feel free. ~ Spike


VIN (last 6) ~  trim ~  manufacture ~ date

~ 100085 GDG Feb-85

~ 100154 GDG

~ 100234 GDG Mar-85

~ 100271          Mar-85

~ 100370 GDG

~ 100465 GTG Mar-85

~ 100523 GDG Mar-85

~ 100615 GDG Mar-85

~ 100732 GDG Mar-85

~ 101329 GDG Mar-85

~ 101683

~ 101695 GCG

~ 101848 GDG Apr-85

~ 102010 GTG Apr-85

~ 102093 GTG Apr-85

~ 102174 GDG

~ 102818 GTG

~ 103021 GTG May-85

~ 103134 GCG May-85

~ 103209

~ 103626 GDG Jul-85

~ 103662 GDG Jul-85

~ 103695 GDG Jul-85

~ 104822 GCG Feb-86

~ 104872 GCG Feb-86

~ 104993 GCG

~ 105882 GDG Mar-86

~ 106068 GCG Mar-86

~ 106771 GCG

~ 100237 GCH Nov-86

~ 100241 GCH Nov-86

~ 100503 GDH

~ 101136 GCH Mar-87

~ 100029 GDJ Jan-88

~ 100097 GDJ Jan-88

~ 100416 GCJ



The first time I ever heard of the Cavalcade was in a feature article in Road Rider (now defunct). The editors, Bob & Patti Carpenter rode two of the prototypes for several thousand miles and gave Suzuki their opinions about the bike. I used to have the magazine but not anymore. I think it was late '84 but couldn't swear to it. Suzuki even flew them back over to Japan to ride their "pre-production" models. As a matter of fact it was while riding in a rain storm over there that they discovered they needed to add those "ugly" (my opinion) lowers. I think they had to design them on the production line. Bob Carpenter is an editor of some magazine somewhere but he would be a source for this info. ~ Dick Carter V-Beach



Ok, I haven't been around  the Cavalcades to understand the term "Lowers." What are you talking about? ~  Richie


Richard, you have an LX (does not come with lowers). Lowers are a faring piece that is just below where the front sidepieces end. They came standard on an LXE, and to me make a great deal of difference in the rain or cold. I will say I sometimes wish in hot weather they were not there. I have attached a picture - pretty poor picture - but you'll notice the fairing in front goes right down to the chrome piece at the bottom. There is no gap as on the LX. ~ Al from Mass (Al Pomerleau)


Hey Al, Don't your lowers have fresh air vents you can open in hot weather? ~ Jay


Yes Jay, I've got the vents, but in very hot weather or slow traffic & hot temps. I wish I had more airflow. In cold weather I'm glad I don't have the airflow - hot air from heater vents is more effective. ~ Al


Doesn't come with lowers but you can get them as an extra as I have on mine. They are great even in the summer. ~ Terry, ’86, LX



Actually the Cavalcade was introduced on October 11, 1939, at the World Fair in Munich. Herr Adolph Schimmelcade rode the huge tourer into the arena and was promptly shot in the kiestersitten by an irate nomad called Ohsay Iben Ridin. It wasn't actually produced for a while due to some problems with the statorschnitzel. Herr Schimmelcade later sold the patents to Sosueme Hiya Curly who after touring the entire island of Alcatraz, named the bike after some raw fish he ate while listening to a Dave Brubeck album. And that's the trut. ~ Grandpa, ‘86




Here's a tip from me: Its a known fact the main engine seal and the Secondary drive seal usually start leaking around 40K miles... at least the 86's do. This is the second time for me (just passed 83K) and in desperation I tried the "Gunk Bearing Sealer" designed to soften bearing seals. My job took me to Bakersfield, about 120 miles from home and while pulling the Grapevine I heard this awful noise that sounded like an airgun going off. Stopping immediately, the noise went away. After walking around the bike, letting it idle and not finding anything obviously wrong and no flat tires I decided to ride up to the rest area about 10 miles up, warm my hands and recheck everything. Ok, hands warm and nothing weird happening I continued on my run. Another 10 miles the noise started again, this time sounding like right under the carbs... Slowed, and when nearly stopped the noise did too. Ok... let’s follow the slow trucks and stop at the truck stop and get some coffee. After coffee and phone calls I got back to the bike... another walk around and damned if there's no more oil leaking onto the pavement in the front and rear. Near as I can figure out the two instances were the two seals reseating at speed. Slowing down let them seat in properly I guess. Almost 300 miles round trip and only a couple of drops of oil and I think that is from the residue warming and dripping off the frame. Cheap fix... Gunk Bearing Seal! ~ Don Box


Don, Not having used it before, or even seen a container of the stuff, what do you do with Gunk Bearing Sealer? How much do you use, where do you use it etc. *<]8-) *I'm a clown around mechanical stuff* lol thanks, ~ Dan



Here's a preventative maintenance tip for anyone opening up the right side fairing this winter. First is to unplug all the connectors concerning the stator leads, erg/rectifier and clean/ lube them and PLUG THEM BACK in. Also check the double splice on the ground side of the battery. It's the two small black/black/white striped wires that are crimped into the larger battery ground. Follow them down and see if that double connector has discolored due to heat (resistance build up). If so, replace the splices make sure you cut back any corroded wire. This is the ground to the reg/rectifier and who knows what else. But it is important to the proper operation of the charging system. As for electrical connections it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to go through ALL of them and clean and lube them just due to the age of the bike. ESPECIALLY the ones that remain outside, as moisture does have a way of entering them, and we know moisture and electrical connections means corrosion. Corrosion means resistance build up. Just my two on this subject, as I did have the double ground corrosion due to a battery overflow falling off and allowing acid to enter this connection. And the resistance built up so bad it almost melted the plug off. And with it bad the battery only showed 11.5 volts with thew bike running as per manual. When corrected voltage jumped right up to where it is supposed to be. RIDE SAFE ~ Walter n Maryland



I took off the mufflers so as to get to the rear wheel for a tire swap. I but replaced the mufflers with 8 in long square end extensions in place of the mufflers. I think it sounds great. Am I going to hurt then engine by running it this way for a short time? Or am I just risking a ticket by the local authorities? I was also thinking of replacing the mufflers with straight SS pipes. What does any one think? ~ Joe in CO


Check the archives for JC Whitney and mufflers. I'd suspect that you might be okay with the extensions as there is a pre-muffler, but I wouldn't want to bet on it. I put in some mufflers from JC Whitney. They are pretty inexpensive but sound nice. Somebody might have a pair their trying to sell cause they are a bit loud. ~ Brenden


Joe, The carb jetting may be affected, but probably only slightly. It will probably take more drastic changes (like opening up the air-box lid) to cause an overly lean condition. The best test will be throttle response, dead spots and sputtering. If the amount of throttle doesn't seem to give you the appropriate amount of power, or it takes more throttle opening than it use to, or if you get a dead-spot(s) or back-firing or sputtering, then it may have leaned it out enough to cause a problem. If you run it very long under those conditions, you can burn things up (holes in pistons, valves etc). In some cases, you can simply tweak the idle mixture screws out a bit to compensate. In extreme cases, you will need to bump up the main jet and possibly the pilot jet to compensate. ~ Tracy


Dear Joe, Oh oh, you opened up Pandora's box on that one. The main reason I don't feel they are good is not due to the engine, but due to the image we create when we ride around on loud bikes. That's the realm of the Harley Hogs and I for one would like to create the image of safe, law abiding riders that have other's feelings in mind. I don't mean that as criticism, but it's just this old geezer's opinion and probably not shared by all. ~ Grandpa ‘86

I don't like noise when I'm touring the canyons around home. On the stock mufflers I used a grinding wheel to open the 2 stock plates inside to about maximum size which I believe is 1 1/4 in. That is about maximum dimension before hitting the internal baffling tubes. This gives a very nice sound with max noise at 3000 rpm. When I want it very quiet I stuff in each muffler exit hole 2 stainless scrubby pads. These stay in even at 6000 rpm and bring the noise level down to that of a standard muffler with the baffles installed. When I want some rumble I use a hooked coat hanger to remove the ss scrubbys. It's the best of both worlds in my opinion. In defense of the Harley people, the very loud pipes do tell people that you are around. Yesterday while riding with no mufflers I did notice that I did get peoples attention at intersections and in heavy traffic when I wanted to draw some attention to my position and that is an added safety feature even though it is at other people's expense (annoyance). So I wish I could find a way where I could have full noise when I want for safety and full quiet for comfort (most of the time. I don't know how the straight pipe guys stand the full noise all the time. That would ruin my Karma and the enjoyment of riding. In my book it is "To each his own" and great riding to all. Hey, I even like to wear my nose ring and show my bear chest once in a while even at 54 yrs. old and that is not a pleasant sight to behold. GGG ~ Joe in Co


OK Joe, How's this for a plan? Buy an old saxophone and cut the holes in your muffler to match the valves. Then when you want maximum noise, you could open all the valves and shake the countryside. When you want to run quiet you shut all the valves. In between if you get bored, you could practice your scales. ~ Jay


I find that when I removed my baffles and used 2x9" down turns chrome of course lol they give a nice rumble and not a heavy tone at speed, so I can still hear the radio, i did have to go to a hotter spark plug for winter starting though. ~ Marlon, ’87, blk & gray


Hey Joe, When one of my stock mufflers went rusty on me, I ordered mufflers from Custom Muffler Shop back east (see information under Parts on the web site). They are made out of polished stainless steel. I didn't have to re-jet the carburetors. They were made to fit the Cavalcade and because they are smaller diameter then stock, when you want to take back wheel off, you don't need to take right muffler off to accomplished that. The wheel shaft will slide out right under the muffler. As far as it doesn't sound like Harley, but has really nice tone at idle and people are looking to see why this GoldWingish bike sounds so nice. Big plus for me is that I'm being noticed on the road. The mufflers are not even close to be as loud as straight pipes, so I know I am not upsetting anyone. One of these days I will get with Jay and he will record the sound for all to "see". Ride On ~ Wojo, ’86, LX, Kent, WA


J C Whitney has quite a selection of mufflers. It looks as if some would fit. I would be something to mess with over the winter if one had some extra money to blow. Cheaper than hangin out at those Harley type Bars. And quieter too! ~ Joe in CO


There's nothing quite like a set of air horns to let someone know they're about to enter your cushion. It’s a whole lot better than a loud bike to contend with all day. I followed a Vulcan with after market pipes. It sounded like a Harley to him, sounded like a VW with a blown muffler to me. And as he passed families on the road, I could see their agony as he sped by. It didn't leave a very good impression at all. I later had the opportunity to let him follow his own bike. He went to a much quitter exhaust system. Just my two on this subject. ~ Walter ‘n Maryland

Walter, I agree with your assessment of the situation completely. You don't hear it when approaching. You don't hear it from cross streets, the only time you hear it is when the bike is either in front of you or beside you and if they are quite loud, in your home, or standing on the street. Of course you can hear it from the light as everyone else can. Our city has serious trouble with people hearing ambulances and police cars, so I feel there is little safety involved. I feel it makes people irritated and an irritated driver is one I want to stay away from. Road rage is bad enough without aggravating it. ~ So if you have loud pipes please stay to the rear. ~ Grandpa ’86


Before I put my mufflers back on today I noticed that at the end of the driveshaft tube at the bottom there is a small hole. I think it drains any fluid that gets past the seals on the driveshaft. There is a palm-sized area of dirt from some fluid coming from that hole. It is not what I would call wet but some fluid caused the dirt to stick there. I was wondering if this is usual or not. I have put all synthetic fluid in the secondary and final and think that it does find a way to seep out more so than the thicker stuff. ~ Joe in CO



Does anyone know if the front brake pads are the same size as the rear ones? I scarcely use the rear brake. I bought one set of pads and now I’m trying to decide if I will buy another set when I change the front tire or just swap the rear to the front and put my best two used pads aft, assuming they are the same part. ~ Spike


SPIKE! SPIKE! > > USE THE CD! > > ~ Tracy


"The CD, Spike," came the voice of Tracy Wan Kanobi. "Use the CD." Ok, I used it. The parts are the same. The front brake pads are the same as the aft brake pads. They can be swapped fore and aft. {8-] Thanks Tracy Wan! Your making and distributing that CD is directly or indirectly responsible for about half the current crop of Cades still being in service. ~ Spike Cadewalker


Careful, careful on those brake pads. If you have and early '86 I think there are different pads for the front and rear. ~ Dick Carter VA-Beach


Spike, On the 86 Cade, the brake pads are two different numbers for front and rear. Just went through getting them sorted out on my bike. I don't remember the part numbers, but they are different . . .the little holes for the pins are closer together on one (believe it was the rear). ~ Dennis, ’86, Cade


Now I am confused. The CD on section 47 shows a front pad set, part number 59130-24A00. Section 53 shows a rear pad set with the same number 59130-24A00 for the GTG. The replacement set, for which I bought one pair, is part number 59100-38820, which the local shop claims is compatible. Tell ya what, I’ll pull that front tire and report back if the pads are swappable fore and aft, and if these I just bought are compatible. ~ Spike


The ‘86 does have two different brake part #'s so do be sure you get the right ones. I believe Suzuki made a change in the brakes for the rest of the years the bike was made. ~ Doug Jensen


OK, I just got finished doing a brake job and found out that at least on the 86 GTG the pads are the same fore and aft. In fact they appear interchangeable side to side, that is to say there are six identical brake pads on the bike. The new pads have 5 mm of pad material. My front left pads were both about 4mm and the front right were about 1.5 and 2mm. The rear pads looked like they had never been used. Perhaps this is because they have never been used. So I decided to use the one set I bought new and replace both front right pads and leave the rest of em alone. ~ Spike


I just put brakes on my ‘86 LXE. The front and back look the same, but the thickness is different. Backs are thicker that the front, J.C Whitney, $11.99 a set. ~ Tom


This comes from the Dennis Kirk parts catalog: '86 Cade through serial # 103764 takes the same pad for front and rear, (pt # 19-1602). All Cades with serial # 103765 and above take pt # 19-1604 for the front and the same as previously mentioned (19-1602) for the rear. ~ Kelly


Cool. Some Cade guru such as Tracy Wan Kenobi might be able to help us out here. Those numbers Kelly mentioned are the last 6 only, right? The number on my frame is JS1VX71A3G2103021 So what can I learn from all this alphabet soup? ~ Spike



I bought my ‘88 LX in September with 6k miles on it. The back tire had been replaced a month before with an Elite II. The front had the original tire. A week ago after reading about doing a "high-side" and scaring the crap out of myself, I decided to hit the front brake only at 35mph to see how fast I would stop. With the temp at about 40 and with that 14 yr. old tire up front the front very soon started to skid and go sideways. It is amazing how fast the adrenaline kicks in and how fast I let go of the front brake. Almost went down. The previous 3 months the 2800 miles I put on were on twisty canyon roads on that tire. So yesterday I had Avon Venom x put on. (I have these on my 1100GK). Today at a temp of 36 I hit the front brake hard at 50 and let go and did it again and again. I got to the point where I could squeal the front tire and come almost to a stop. At no time did I lose directional control. It tracked straight every time. I had no idea how bad that old tire was, even though it looked fine. Maneuverability has improved also but I have yet to push it too hard in the turns with that new of tire. ~ Joe in CO



All the information I have read on this subject suggests staying with same brand/composition front to rear. However when I last ordered tires for my bike I must have hit the wrong key and got two front Cruise-max. Therefore when I started pulling a trailer and wanted to install 491's, I contacted Dunlop and they said it would be OK to run the 491 rear and the cruise max front. I did take it easy to see if it handled any different unmatched (none was noted). But they were both Dunlop's. You might want to take it easy on those curvy mountain roads to see also if that Dunlop elite and the Avon venom are compatible. I know neither Dunlop nor Avon would suggest the mix if not only to sell you a tire. Just my suggestion on the subject as I am no expert only know what I've read. ~  Walter ‘n Maryland


I guess I thought that the only difference the mixed tire arrangement would be that one would lose traction before the other. If one would push it to the extreme that might be a problem. Maybe in the rain a stickier tire up front could give a false sense of traction, I don't know. I've only put on approximately 6k miles last summer and had not owned a motorcycle since 1968 and don't feel experienced enough to push the curves any time soon but there might be more to it than that. ~ Joe in CO


To Joe in CO, If you like riding the twisty canyon roads, stick with the Avon venom x tires. You won't get the same mileage as the Dunlop, but the bike handles a lot better. I have used Avon tires for about 10 years now won't use anything else. I even got the wife using then on her bike. We spend most of our time riding the back roads in the Smoky Mountains’ Blue Ridge Parkway area. ~ Tom & Jeanie



Speaking of Madura. The clutch from the 1200 will fit in the Cade. The only exception is the first plate. The others fall right in. There are one less drive and one less driven plates because they are thicker. You just need a Cade first (smallest) plate. Had a Madura clutch in my Cade for 20,000 miles. ~ Mikey



I’ve got an ‘86 LXE with factory CB radio. The channel display doesn't show the channel that is selected on the dash. I wonder if this can be repaired or has anyone got a used unit. I’ve checked the fuse and it’s ok. Any other suggestion would be appreciated. ~ Wilbur Wallace Kennewick, WA


Sounds like you have the dreaded radio button failure problem. It has nothing to do with mileage; it's the age of the little bitsy buttons located in the radio. There are 16 of them that need to be replaced. You can find the part numbers, the WORK involved, and just about anything else you need to know @ the web site. Don't feel let down there are lots of us that had the same problem. Some of the guy's tackled the problem them selves. I opted to have a radio repairman replace them and with the instructions from the Suzuki site, I'm sure it can be fixed rather inexpensive. There is one E-bay I think but you might be buying the same problems you're having. Hope this of help to you. Ride safe ~ Walter ‘n Maryland


I just bought this cavalcade 3 days back; it’s a 1988 with 2,700 miles on it. It looks like the day it was in the showroom. I drove it home 250 miles and had the radio playing most of the way, today I put a tape in it and when I ejected the tape I can't get the radio to work. I can hear a buzz in the speakers and the display window is blank but it’s on. I can turn it off and back on and I can see the radio station flash in the display screen, I've pushed every button on it but can't get it to come on. I pulled the unit up and pushed it back down thinking it might be a connection but nothing any idea's out there ~ Richie, Meridian, MS


Richard it’s the button problem many of us have experienced. As the radio buttons age one or more of the buttons stick and the radio no longer functions or only works where it got stuck. Buttons themselves are cheap and several members have fixed them themselves. Check the archives for a better description. ~ Al from Mass


Richard, go ahead and check out the procedure and where to get the switches on the cavalcade site. It is really not very hard to repair these things. Follow the instructions and be real careful with your solder. I think it cost me about 12 to 15 bucks to fix mine and about an hour of labor. Works just like new now. ~ Red Barber 86LX


Thanks to all: I found the site about the buttons and I think I'll try to fix it myself. I've had a lot of motorcycles in my pass 60 years but have not owned one for about 3-4 years. I'm like a kid at Christmas now with this Cavalcade, its a ton of fun to be back riding--I build and fly ultra light aircraft also ~ Richie



I'm having a problem with the factory radio on my "86 Cade. When I turn it on, it only makes static and is stuck on 87.9 FM. You can't change the band or the station. Does this sound like a problem with the buttons that I've read about or something I should send it to Clarion to get fixed? Besides the radio, I LOVE THIS RIDE! ~ Kelly


Kelly, Don't bother sending it to Clarion. They no longer work on them. Your radio's symptoms are typical of what happens when the switches go bad. If you don't want to change them yourself, you can send them to one of the repair shops listed on our web site. They will replace the switches, check the unit for other problems and service it. ~ Jay


Well once again may I suggest if you are sending it out to be fixed you might want to consider Sierra Electronics here in Ohio.... They come to Americade.... And motorcycle sound systems are their specialty...  or 1 800 338-6938 ~ Nancy



Almost exactly three months after crashing the oldest single-owner Cade in history, I managed to round up all the pieces from Al Pomerleau, et al, match the paint, get it all put back together. So yesterday I’m out tooling around and stopped at one of the local bike shops. Came out, hit the starter button and it cranked one half a spin at what sounded like full power, then nada, nothing. No crank, no lights. (...No motorcars, not a single luxury. Like Robinson Caruso, its primitive as can be...) I recall Tracy or someone saying the stator was on borrowed time after 30k, and I have 29,920 so I assumed it was that. Rented a truck with a hoist to get her home, found that the hoist platform was shorter than the wheelbase of the bike. (doh!) Putting that bike in the back of the truck was an adventure. But on the way home I came up with an idea. That is to push the bike onto the hoist platform sideways, center stand the bike with the back wheel hanging over empty space on the left side of the truck. Then raise the hoist, pivot the bike on the center stand so that the front wheel is in the truck and the back wheel is over the hoist, and push her in. When I got home I did the reversed of that process, worked great. {8-] So I put a meter across the battery, 12 volts. Turned on the key, zero volts. I pulled the battery out, put a meter across the terminal wires with the key off: 10k ohms. AOK. Turned the key on, *zero ohms*. I should be getting about 12 ohms with the key on and no starter button, eh? That’s the resistance of the headlight, right? About 12 ohms? Question, Tracy, When a stator fails, does it fail dead short with the key on? Is there any other common failure mode that would cause dead short with the key on? Are there any other diagnostics I should try before I take out the old stator? Or should I assume the stator should be replaced now regardless of whatever else is wrong? ~ Spike


Spike, I would check the negative battery cable split junction connection. It’s about 8-12 inches from the end where it connects to the battery. That has been the culprit for these symptoms in the past. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN ‘87 tt Gray LX


So that split junction is behind the fairing right half? Would that be consistent with this observation: I measure about 10 ohms across the battery terminals (battery out) with the key off, and zero ohm dead short across the terminals with the key turned to on. Where would a short circuit hafta be to cause this? ~ Spike


Spike, If I had to make some guesses, I would offer these. With the battery out and key off, you should see a pretty high reading, like in the 10,000 ohms. If you have a 10-ohm load across the terminals then that's a healthy load and would drain a battery fast. With the key on, you should be a pretty low ohms because a lot of things happen when the key is turned on. There are a number of relays that come into play that, when added together, could send the reading down near zero, especially if you have a short working somewhere. If the starter started to turn over then stopped abruptly, I wouldn't even consider the stator first. I would look at all of the main connections that connect the battery to the rest of the harness and any fuses that are before the fuse box (there are 2 on the side of the battery tray and I think even a re-setable breaker). I would also take the battery to have it tested because no matter what it reads with no load, when a load is applied is what makes a difference. Even if it takes a charge, it can still have an internal open that omits some (or all) cells when under a load. Take it to Wal-Mart and they will put it on their handy dandy tester (auto parts stores will do the same) and see what happens when it's loaded. Also, I would look at the starter relay to make sure it's functional. This really sounds like a connection problem that is either an open (possibly only under load) or a short like a wire grounding out on the frame. As for the stator, unplug it from the reg/rec (right front behind gauges) and check it according to the service manual. It should have some resistance across each of the terminals. Of course to fully test it you will need to have the bike running. Just a few thoughts you might try. ~ Sorry, Spike, you do have 10,000 ohms with key off. In that case, I think it's the battery. ~ Tracy


Spike, I stand corrected. I was thinking infinite ohms instead of zero ohms. Zero meaning no resistance, infinite meaning open circuit. That’s why I was thinking a bad connection. Sounds like Tracy has giving you the proper procedure. Hope you find the problem. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray


I was just out there and now I’m starting to suspect my meter. I switched to the amp scale and used the meter as a piece of wire to connect the positive battery terminal to the positive wire and I’m getting about 4 amps with the key on. The battery should be able to pull about 100 amps I would estimate. Maybe it is just my battery. Let’s hope so.


Tracy, do you think it is worth it to replace the stator prophylactically? The bike has almost 30K and I don’t wanna get stranded. But mine is the model without the radios and crystal chandeliers, so I was hoping the stator would last longer than those of my wealthier compatriots, since it would be under less load. Whaddya think? Spike


I don't know if there is any way to tell, strictly by mileage, whether a stator is ready to go tits-up or not. Mileage and load are both factors but so is the temperature of the oil, which is offering the required cooling. Also, the connections to the reg/rec and the grounding of the reg/rec are important factors. Putting a new one in for the sake of doing it may have the opposite effect if something else isn't right. Surely, less load means less heat and should translate into longer life. However, who are you to think that the stator in your model, sold without all the fancy stuff, isn't a lower output version already leading to the same problem, as if you had a thousand points of light installed as some of the cavers do. Do what you want, however, you might do what some of the caveys do, carry a spare. Even if it dies somewhere on the road, the battery will run the bike for awhile till you can get somewhere decent to change it. And, even if you can't go far, the tools required to replace it are minimal and it could easily be done ASOTR in about half and hour, 45 minutes tops. Just my thoughts. ~ Tracy


Tracy was right again (dog GONE that guy, he never misses). I serviced the battery, charged her up and now the Cade is, in the immortal words of the folk philosopher William Nelson, back on the road again. I learned that if you take the 12 volts off the wires, the resistance you measure is unpredictable, since there are relays and gazazzafratzes that are set by the 12 volts. With that off, its hard telling what resistance you will measure. I was starting to think my ohmmeter was failing, but when I switched to amps and used the meter like a wire, I got consistent and sensible readings. Like another folk philosopher Johnny Carson: I did NOT know that! Anyway, I just got back from a shakedown run, and all is well. Thanks Tracy! ahhhh life is goooooood... ~

I need to look up on the disc, see if they are the same part numbers for all the models. Anyone here already know if it’s the same part for all the Cades? I suspect that it is. Carrying a spare is a good idea. I think I will do that instead of changing it out. I guess I would also need to carry some means of catching and keeping the oil, right? Wouldn’t I need to drain the oil to get to the stator? ~ Spike


Actually, some of the stories about changing it ASOTR talk about leaning the beast to the right. Oil isn't an issue, then. If you leave it straight, you will lose some oil since the level when off does come into that case, however, most of the oil is held below that. If you were to lean it at even a 20° angle, you wouldn't lose much. Would make it easier to work on as well. Hey, if you could carry a selection of wood blocks of various sizes just for that purpose (don't laugh, someone in this group is doing it as we converse on this). Then no matter what the condition or slope of the ground, you could just use them to lean the right lower frame rail onto. And if you carried one of them little angle finders, (you know, the ones that are magnetic) you could stick it on the frame and adjust the angle to a perfect 20° or whatever angle was required based on a full size CAD drawing. The one that you made to determine the exact angle at which all of the oil was out of the left hand case. What? Am I being anal now? Tracy


Hi, At over 160,000 miles. I am on my 5th stator. Actually 4 1/2 since I took my last rebuilt one out and replaced it with a hi-output one from Willie's. My bike is hard on stators and water pumps. Since I know it so well, I carry spares. I replaced the last stator that went out in a parking lot in Gorman, CA. It took about an hour. I also carry spare gaskets though I have been able to reuse my old ones occasionally. The stator and water pump are small, so they don't take up much room in the trunk. The rebuilt stators seem to last about the same as the new ones. I did find a few problems with burned plugs last time, so I hope this one will last a little longer. ~ Eugene, San Diego


As an added tip for those concerned about stator life, if you get around to checking the connections at the reg/rectifier, splice into one of the negative wires at the regulator and add more grounds right from the regulator. This helps bleed off excess voltage of some sort. This was a fix suggested by J&M due to an electrical noise (alternator whine) problem with their after market intercom system. It must have some effect on regulator life cause I'm on my 2nd stator at 97,000 miles. ~ Ray & Lin Letourneau "In The Woods" Nekoosa, WI


Dead short on Ohms measurement. When measuring ohms, it's not unusual to have zero ohms when a circuit is completed across the battery. You are actually measuring the resistance of the circuit, which is in parallel with the battery. Try using a volt meter to determine voltage drop or better still take off the ground connection and use an ammeter across the negative post on the battery to ground with what ever you turn on. That will tell you what the current draw is. I would suspect several things first. Do the lights work? Is the kill switch OK? The clutch switch could be suspect. If you were getting a dead short across the battery something would be getting hotter than a firecracker. Good luck, ~ Grandpa, ’86


All this talk about stator failure brought to me the memories of when mine started to fail. I started noticing a serious miss from the engine, especially when I would roll on the fuel. I thought it was carburation (I actually took the carbs out and basically did little except readjust the floats and later had them synched). Then I thought it was the fuel pump (I ordered one and I still have it as a back up). Then one day I went to start the bike and the battery was too low to start it. I charged it and ran my meter on it and discovered that the voltage was running 12 and under when the manual calls for 13.8, thus stator failure, granted a slow one thank goodness, but one that took a month to figure out. I replaced it (I believe that was about at 36,000 miles). I now have 80,000 on the bike (built Oct. 85) and haven't had another failure which I attribute to running Mobil 1 as it seems to run cooler. It is heat that kills these things. ~ Doug Jensen


If you had a "dead short" then you would either blow a fuse or else you would see a lot of smoke from the shorted wire melting. Provided your battery was at least half charged, or like some the connections from a bad splice will do the same (smoke it up) under a load. ~ Terry, ’86, LX



Spike, If your stator was bad, you wouldn't have squat on your battery. Go out by the bike and pull all the fuses except the ignition fuse (cause it sounds like a dead short somewhere). If the bike starts and runs, replace the fuses one at a time (while the bike is running). When the bike dies, that fused circuit is the problem. If it does it right away then the problem is in the ignition circuit. ~ Mikey



I've experienced some of the problems noted in your newsletter but not all. Here is some additional input on some of the issues.


1. Stator failure. Mine quit about 2 months ago. I found a place in Oceanside California that does "rebuilds". For $145.00 plus shipping they rewind the stator and guarantee it for 1 year. Considering that Suzuki wants $430.00 for a new stator and only stands behind it for 90 days it's a good deal. They also have Regulator/rectifiers for $85.00. The replacement is fairly straightforward. If you want more information on this I can give a "blow by blow" procedure. Place is ELECTREX USA, 2948-A Industry Street, Oceanside Ca. 92054. Phone 1-888-369-8359 E-mail .


2. Concerning the "rain problem" experienced by some Cade owners, I have also had the problem. The source of the ignition cutting out is in the 2-igniter boxes located just above the headlight, right next to the regulator/rectifiers. Due to age or heat warping these boxes open up at a joint between the top and bottom section. When it rains water gets inside onto a circuit board and after a while causes misfiring. As I said there are 2 of these boxes, the top one also provides data to the tachometer. So if your tack acts up when the misfiring occurs, that is a sure indicator. What I did was to remove the igniter boxes and clean the circuit boards with alcohol and a very stiff brush. Mine had road dirt all over them. I then reassembled and sealed the box seam with tape and coated the joint with an automotive rubber adhesive. After reinstalling the boxes I wrapped a sheet of rubber (section of an automotive inner tube) over the top and bottom on the side facing the front of the bike. I have ridden in some very heavy rains since then with no problems. A short-term fix is to put a piece of duck tape over the front grill just above the headlight and closing it off. But do this before the engine starts to miss. Jay, You and your group do a great service to all Cavalcade owners. I hope you can keep it up. Suzuki has its US corporate offices here in Brea, but I never see any new bikes around. I hope they will consider coming out with a replacement for the Cavalcade. Regards, ~ John Barr, E-mail:




Perhaps you can direct me to a solution as to how I can get stains off the chrome on my Cade? Water and solution leaking from my overfilled radiator caused the stains. Rubbing with steel wool and just about anything I could find in the garage has failed. I may just have to remove the side and have it chromed again. Hope not. ~ Michael E. La Mesa.


Try a little Mothers with the steel wool and a lot of elbow grease and it will come out. I have removed stains on my Cade with this combination many times. ~ Ronald Cole


Ran across this product at a couple of street rod shows I attended bought some, used it and was very well satisfied with the results. “WENOL Metal Polish.”  Price seemed high but you don't have to use that much at a time. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents. Blue magic also works well, and can be used on the windshield also. ~ Walter ‘n Maryland


In the Dec EAA Sport Aviation magazine there is an article on polishing a metal airplane. The Wenol polish was found to be best. Use the course pink polish to get rid of water spots and the fine white polish for that high shine. or try this link ~ Joe in CO ’88 LX



I was thinking about removing the engine side covers so I could polish them. They are the plain aluminum as Gideon is an 86 GT. I did not think it would be that difficult. I am I correct, or am I overlooking something?

God bless, ~ Bob D, Indy, “Gideon”






Members looking for parts might want to look at the listings under SUZUKI CAVALCADE in E-bay. There are 21 items listed now. RIDE SAFE>>> GIT DEM PARTS ~ Walter n Maryland


For Sale (and not for profit): 1. Lower front farings 2. Faux gas tank 3. Side panels 4. Saddle bags 5. Front fender 6. Trunk 7. Rear fender I purchased a set from a member last year so I could custom paint them. The above listed parts are from my bike and are the gold with brown decals. In perfect condition and off of a 1986 LX. I paid $750.00 plus shipping and I will sell them for $750.00 plus shipping. The member I bought them from is out of Arizona and I lost his e-mail and address, but he designs electric cars, I think. He did say he wanted to buy my set back at the same price. Robert Wynne Fresno, Ca. (559) 281-5030



For any one interested, I currently have TWO trailer hitches for the cavalcade. They were made by me and similar to plan three on the SuzukiCavalcade web site. These were changed some, as they do not stick out the rear of the bike.  They do require the plastic portion of the bottom of the rear fender be trimmed flush with the bottom of the bumper. They attach at the muffler hanger bolts and the rear frame hoop bolts. They are painted satin black, can be ordered with or without hitch/ball assembly. Without hitch and ball assembly 125.oo plus shipping with hitch and ball assembly 150.00 plus shipping If interested contact me personally Ride SAFE Walter n Maryland




Would someone with a parts bike be willing to part with kickstand assembly and also a center stand assembly? I’m going to chrome these items. I’m also looking for a stator cover, gearbox cover and clutch side cover. I’m looking for these items in rough shape finish wise (with a peeling and flaking condition). I plan to have an exchange program but I need to purchase these items to get it started or if any one has items they want re-chromed or polished drop me a note for pricing. Powder coating is also available ~ Chopper, email:


I would like to know where I can get a starter original or a rebuilt one I would like to have a spare. Dan, ‘86 Gray GT


Some time back, a fellow Cader had a complete fairing for sale. I received a request for one from an e-bay member that saw some of my Cade stuff posted on e-bay. Would the member that had the fairing please send me an e-mail at and I will forward the information on and get you guys hooked up. Thanks, ~ Tracy



I am now on the search for a hitch for the Cade. If anyone can provide information on the where abouts of one of these, it would be greatly appreciated. Information as to where you can buy, or have them built will work too.

Thanks in advance for the help. ~ T. Moore, ‘86 Pa LX Cade


Brother, it's make your own or if one of the other members wants to part with theirs...You can find the plans on the  web site. ~ Dan Haley



I've been looking at the pictures on the cavalcade site and some of the bikes have a nice back rest, it has a chrome bar that run's down the side of the seat and it looks like its fastened to the frame in some way. It’s not the one you put through the seat, where can I find one of these. Also-- can I find footboards for the driver, I'm diabetic and tonight when I pulled my shoes off I had on each ankle a nice burn spot from the engine. I have no feeling in my feet and couldn't tell it was that hot, this will take a while to heal. I'll buy some boots tomorrow but sure would like some floorboards to keep my feet away from the engine. Thanks a bunch for any info on this ~ Richie


I just modified a backrest off a 1200 GoldWing to fit my bike. I made two 1/2" steel bars with slotted boss on the ends to fit under the bottom side crash bar attach bolt. I came up on angle against front side of top portion of crash bar, angled along same line as the seat bottom. I removed the backrest attachment bosses from GoldWing seat rig, welded them onto 1/2" bars. And it is as the chromed backrest you were referring to. The backrest I used was a DRAG SPECIALTIES, Wingleader. It worked great. It was just that the bottom bars are painted black to match frame, hardly noticeable, I can make you a sketch if needed. I opted for this rather than the UTOPIA through the seat as I just paid 540.00 for a BRAND NEW ORIGINAL Cade seat, and couldn't bear the knife in the seat it would take to mount it. You will find out that, accessories for this bike are few and far between, sometimes we have to leave it to our imagination, and ingenuity. Ride safe. ~ Walter n Maryland


Kenn, I haven't heard from the manufacture yet on the floorboards yet. Are they ready yet? Did you or anyone else hear from them yet? Sounds like another set can be sold to Richard Gray. Who should he contact to get a set? Thanks for the help. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX



Hello! I have been reading the messages here for a few weeks and really enjoy the information shared by all. Now I want to see if I can get a response. I have an 86 Cade built 3-85 and it has 49xxx miles on it of which I have put on about 5000 since July. I would like to see if anyone has the LXE lowers/cornering lamp setup that I can put on my LX. It is two-tone brown. I am also wanting to find a factory CB or will put on an after market unit. I would like to go to Branson this fall but will have to see how the ole farming thing is going by then. I live in Ingalls (SW) KS. thanks for your help and this site! Bruce: (



I wanted to do it last year and didn’t. This year I just started total remodeling project and I am looking for parts in good shape. If anyone have parts that he can part with, let me know please. Lower left fairing 94440-24A00-24G louver for lower fairing RH and LH 94435-24A00 and 94445-24A00 instrument cover 94420-24A02-291. This is the main list. But if you have anything you want to sell e- mail me direct. About the list with VIN numbers, I would like to see the state that the owner is from. Still don't know how many riders we have in my state (WA). Ride On ~ Wojo, 86LX Kent, WA:



I know there is someone out there with a complete faring in good condition that wants to sell it. Someone has contacted me (outside of the group) that's looking for one. Would that person please send me a private e-mail ( so I can get you guys hooked up? Thanks, ~ Tracy




Unfortunately we are going to have to sell our '86 Cade LXE - this bike is in excellent shape - all original equipment including the radio (which works great) & owners manual. New windshield still in the box will go with it. Bike has always been garaged and has only 19,840 miles. Wanted to give all you Cade owner’s first shot before it goes into the newspaper. Asking $5100 - please email for more information. ~ Jon:


Due to cervical spine problems, I must sell my Cavalcade. It is a near mint '86 LX with 31,000 miles, always stored inside. What are the current rules for posting such info on user group? Thanks. ~ Gary Smith:




Finally my Suzuki Cavalcade is in GUADALAJARA, MEXICO. I have a terrific history to tell you regarding to the CAVALCADE MOTORCYCLE. Just to give you an idea. My son, Pepe, pick it up from Chicago on November 21, before Thanksgiving Day. He drove to Fremont, Nebraska (where he was living for some months). He put his luggage in the passenger seat, and rode south down to Mexico... ¡Snowing! Because of the bad weather he had to change his route several times. ¡Some times west, some time east, some times back.! After 4,000 miles around the States, he arrived at El Paso, Texas. From Albuquerque... first high winds, then rain, later snow. He spend three days down there because of the snow and motorcycle tramitation to import it legally to Mexico. ¡¡¡ After 5,000 miles, he arrived home, safe !!!. He said his life always depended on the CAVALCADE all the time. He make all the trip ¡¡¡Alone !!! He drove always, as you most know because of the actual season, during the worst weather conditions and the CAVALCADE NEVER FAILED. ¡ Never ! I want to say thank you because after all, you are right. ¡Cavalcade is the best moto, as you said! Your Amigos Mexicanos ~ José Luis (Pepe) and Germán Toledo." Motocuates Club"



The ride throughout the Rockies I took last year was as follows I-15 to I 70 to 285 to 112 to 160 to 666 to 160 to 41 to 262 to 191 to 95 to 24 to 12 to 89 to 15 to home. The ride started in Masquite. I hate to mention it, but I'm thinking about towing the bike to Grand Junction to start the ride there this year. Just want to pass on all the heat and adding two more days in the mountains. This trip will take place around June 22-30.2002. Michael (Brown 85 LX) La Mesa, CA. Email: REEYE@AOL.COM.



The Honeysuckle Inn has confirmed our guest room rate for CADE RAID 2002 at $55.00 per night. I don't believe you'll find a better value in Branson. Most of us are planning to arrive the evening of Sunday, September 15th. We have scheduled events for the next three days. However if you can schedule for the whole week in Branson, you can extend your fun right through to Saturday, September 21st. I have learned a lot more about Silver Dollar City. This is the theme park we can visit on Thursday and Friday. I'll be sending out more information on this great attraction soon. The telephone number to reserve your room at the Honeysuckle Inn is 1-800-942-3553. You can visit their web site at . See you at CADE RAID 2002!






Sunday, 9/15/02

Arrival and Check-in at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort

5:00 pm – 10:00 pm Exhibitor Set-up  (Exhibitors Only)


Monday, 9/16/02

8:00 am – 10:00 am      Exhibitor Set-Up

9:00 am – 5:00 pm       Registration Open

9:00 am – 1:00 pm       Self-Guided Tour of Branson

10:00 am – 5:00 pm     Exhibits Open

1:00 pm – 2:00 pm       Class or Workshop

2:15 pm – 3:15 pm       Class or Workshop

3:30 pm – 4:30 pm       Class or Workshop

4:30 pm – 5:45 pm       Reception in the Cardinal Room

6:00 pm – 9:00 pm         Welcome Dinner and Imax Theater Show


Tuesday, 9/17/02

9:00 am – 5:00 pm  Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm  Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 12:00 am  Classes or Workshops

12:00 pm – 2:00 pm  Ride the Ducks to Lunch:

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm Group Rides


Evening (7:30 – 10:30 pm) “Country Tonite” Live Music & Comedy Show


Wednesday, 9/18/02

9:00 am – 12:00 noon  Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm  Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 10:30 am  Classes or Workshops

11:00 am – 12:30 pm  Classes or Workshops

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm  Group Rides

Evening 7:00pm – 10:00pm Awards Dinner ~ Prizes and Awards


Thursday, 9/19/02  (Optional Day)

Spend the day at Silver Dollar City Theme Park and enjoy an evening dinner cruise and a show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell Cruise


Friday, 9/20/02  (Optional Day)

Enjoy a second day free at the Silver Dollar City Theme Park. OR, ride to Lake of the Ozarks or another area that provides us a day’s ride through the Ozarks before heading home. Over-night stay at a local resort or motel.




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Cade Raid 2002

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