CAVALCADE OWNERS GROUP NEWSLETTER
CADE RAID 2004
~BRANSON, MISSOURI ~ August 16-21, 2004
You can take three
days to ride to Branson and three days to ride home and still only need a week
off to attend Cade Raid 2004 next summer. That is because if you can’t spend a
whole week in Branson, you won’t miss the heart of the rally. We will hold our
workshops and entertainment events on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, including
our big award dinner.
Our home base will be
the Grand Plaza Hotel. We have a special group rate of just $55.00 per night for
up to 4 people in a room. And if you want to come early or stay longer you can
reserve nights before and after Cade Raid 2004 at the same rate. www.bransongrandplaza.com
1-800-850-6646. For you campers, contact “America’s Best Campground” 499
Buena Vista Road, Branson, MO 65616 (417) 336-4399
MONDAY NIGHT GATHERING: We
will have a sit-down social on Monday evening, August 16th for
everyone attending CADE RAID 2004. If you get to Branson on Sunday, or just roll
in late Monday, come pull up a chair and get to know your fellow Cavalcaders.
Mark your calendar now
for August 16-20, 2004. We want to see you in Branson.
If you are planning a ride or motorcycle event and would like it posted in next month’s Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter, send it to (firstname.lastname@example.org)
TRIPS & TIPS…
CRIPPLE CREEK TRIP
I just returned from a quick trip to cripple creek co last Wednesday and had a great ride. the return trip was WET and rather cool until we got to springs. after driving in the rain for a couple of hours I got the feeling
I was only hitting on 3 cylinders as the other bikes were leaving me and for the first time since I got this bike the throttle hit the stop. I rode for a few more miles and my speed picked up suddenly, it was running fine. later, it started missing again (at speed) and I could feel a tingle in my throttle hand that was unusual. we stopped and looked around the bike and rested a bit. it would miss at idle and clear up as I raised the rpm's. we took off again and it never missed a beat and we tested it thoroughly! is there a certain igniter that is prone to moisture more than the others or is it just chance? I really like the old Cade and am nearing59000 miles. it had 44000 when I got it two years ago.
couple weeks ago I was going to go to k-state to a game but went 13 miles and
stopped to fill with gasand had motor oil (synthetic) running out on top of the
secondary. I justknew it was gear oil but it was not! I checked the
gearbox and it wasfine, but the engine oil was low. I topped it off with
oil and parkedit. came back next day and rode it home and 1000 miles since
withabsolutely no oil leakage! It’s just something to think about. ride
safeand often. ~Bruce Renick, Ingalls KS
When I put the wheel
back on, I changed brakes. Inoticed that the outer shoes were worn far more than
the inners. Any reason forthis, you brake specialists? ~Red
I had the same problem
with my brakes. I found thepiston on the good pad side was NOT moving
properly. Cleaned it up inplace and pushed it back into the caliper with
the aid of a big "C"clamp. Worked it a few times, sprayed a
little brake cleaner on it andcleaned it off. Pushed it back, worked it,
and bled it again beforeputting it back in service. Hasn't been a problem
since. I rememberit was the outside pad because of the scraped
"O" in thehousing where the "C" clamp dug in.
Used the brake pad to landthe clamp on the piston side. Put a piece of wood shim
between the"c" clamp and the housing and it won't be a problem. Hope
this helps. ~KennG
PROPER WAY TO ADD
When adding the coolant,
be sure you fill the radiatorfirst, by filling at the radiator cap>>>
fill full and wait a fewminutes for it to drain into the block, refill if
necessary. Close radiator capand fill overflow reservoir to cold line( about 1/2
full. Start engine and lettemp go up. From this point on you can just add it to
the overflow reservoir.You have to make sure you don't have an air pocket
trapped in the block.
There are two kinds of bars on the market one has the pellets in it Ipersonally don't like this one. The other is more of a liquid. Your manualgives a part number I think. When I do this procedure I have a 1 liter plasticbottle, with a 3/8 clear plastic hose adapted to the top, as filling fromthe cap is a chore of sorts. And you can sort of squeeze the solution into theradiator fill. Good luck! Check it for leaks when you're done. ~Walter ‘nMaryland
THE CHALLENGE OF
I put a new Dunlop 491
on my spare rear wheel so I don'thave to worry about it 2 weeks before Branson.
It went on real easy (about 15minutes). The tire changer with motorcycle adaptor
from Harbor Freight is areal help.
For some reason I am having one heck of a time getting the tire to fill upwith air. Any help/advice will be greatly appreciated in getting the tireto seat on the rim so I can air it up. I'm assuming it's the tire,because I had no problems changing the front tire. ~Mikey
Remove the valve stem
insert before hand. Put aratchet strap tie down around the tire.
Ratchet it down till the tireswells to meet the rim (both sides). Apply
air till tire pops on. STOP FILLING WITH AIR. Remove the strap.
Apply air to make sure tireis on rim. Replace valve stem insert. Fill to
proper inflation. Check for leaks. ~KennG
For the most part, I
agree with Kenn on the method.However, the rear tire is a pretty stiff beast and
you may not have as muchluck with a ratchet strap as with more flexible tires.
The best method I've seen involved a special tank that has a 1 1/4" -11/2" tube welded to the side of it and a 1/4 turn ball valve in the tube.The tank (about the same size as a standard portable air tank) is pressurized
with about 80 p.s.i. of air.
With the rim/tire laying flat and the bottom bead seated by the weight of thetire, an air chuck is connected to the stem and allowed to fill into the rim,even though it's leaking out of the top bead that's no biggie. The tube comingoff of the special tank has a flattened end on it and it's laid right next tothe top bead and the handle of the 1/4 turn valve is blipped open and thehorrific shot of air that comes out instantly seats the top bead.
Takes about 1 second. Our local tire shop has one and they've used it on tiresfor me for no cost. I just carried them in there and they seated the bead justthat fast. ~Tracy
I have this vision that
with some ingenuity andpersistence, one would be able to find a way to replace
the u-joint on thesedrive shafts of ours. And I wonder if anyone has an old
one that theywouldn't mind sending my way to see if it's possible. If it is,
then I willoffer a driveshaft exchange program for those in need. But I need one
to startwith. ~Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX
I will share my thoughts
on the subject and then, ofcourse, you can do as you wish. Firstly, the only
"used" drive shaftsavailable are ones with the small u-joint. While
there may be a few big jointshafts that have been removed due to wear, my guess
is it's very not many. And,since the small joint shaft is known for excessive
wear and was made obsoleteand updated by the factory to the larger joint, then
putting a small jointshaft back in where one has worn out is asking for another
I looked at doing the same thing. Yes, the u-joint is standard andcan be had for not too much $ however, the stock joint is staked in so thereisn't anything to keep the new joint in once you get the old one out (bygrinding or milling out the stakes). What you would probably end up doing ismilling a slot in the yokes for an external keeper. Can it be done? Yes. Willit work? Probably. However, at the end of the day, when you get done with it, youstill have a small-joint shaft that's now not as strong as it was originallysince you've had to carve around on it to get the new joint in it.
There's not enough room in the original yokes to install a biggerjoint. It's just too thin to make it any bigger. That's why the new shafts havea little problem with "ting"ing the inside of the driveshaft tube,the yokes are bigger because they have to be to accept the larger joint.
Also, the cost of repairing the small-joint shaft might be half ofwhat a new big-joint shaft costs so why would you spend the time and effort to rebuildan inferior design. ~Tracy
OK next question.
Was the newer models equippedwith the bigger u-joint?? If so,
approximately when did they start puttingin the shafts with bigger yokes? Or are
all the bikes equipped with the smallershafts?? I'm thinking that even the
Shafts with bigger u-joints will needto be replaced sometime, and I cant believe
that the u-joint cant be replacedwithout buying the whole shaft. Just my
thoughts. ~Brian in IN, ‘87 ttGray LX
You will have to look at
the parts book, but I think itwas 87 before they started with the bigger shafts.
Yes, rebuilding the bigshaft would provide a suitable replacement. That is,
assuming you can run downany cores to rebuild. There may be some worn out
big-joint shafts out there butmy guess is there won't be many. But, I've been
wrong before. ~Tracy
MORE INFO ON THE
I just had a long
conversation with the USA EBC rep andhave some fairly good news to report.
Firstly, we can place a special order for the rotors and hopefully get themshipped over here in a decent amount of time. What's a decent amount of time? Idunno. However, they have 6 lefts in stock in the US and the rep is sending mea pair to look at to see if there is, in fact, any difference in them when usedon either side. The stock ones have the counter bore on the opposite side tomake the rain grooves (not actually rain grooves but pad cleaning grooves) facethe right direction when they're bolted on. The rep did explain though thatthere have been occasions where the rights and lefts were simply put indifferent boxes even though there's no actual difference in them.
He has asked me to test these rotors to make sure that they arefunctionally equivalent on either side and, if that works out, then some of youthat are in dire need could get 2 lefts if the time to shipment on rights istoo long. He's also sending me some HH pads so I can report on those as well.
Also, it appears that the price may be a little less than what I originallyquoted for fronts. I don't have a final price from my dealer yet (that's theonly way I can get them), but I have a call into him to see what it will endup. ~Tracy
Tracy, Would the plugged
bolts be the cause of the seats not inflating ? I have never felt the seat
or the back rest move since I bought the bike in'96. The air shocks do work
fine. I have checked for leaks but no bubbles. Howlong should it take until I
feel a difference in the seat? ~Keith Brandon
WHERE THERE’S SMOKE
REBUILDING THE FORKS
Kurt for a $1000 if its
anywhere near Massachusetts andyou decide not to buy it please let me know.
It sounds like you are a pretty fair hand mechanically -- with the help andadvice of those in the group I don't think you'll have any problem taking careof what should be taken care of. There may also be members living close by thathave worked on the Cavalcade. Lastly the engine should be your last worry.there are quite a few that have gone past 100K. ~Al from mass
Hi guys and gals just
letting you all know I am sellingmy ‘87 LX gray on silver this is a very nice
bike the radio buttons are new andit has got the cork now it do's have a little
oil leak around the shift rod. WhenI put the bike back together I could not get
the compressor to pump up theshocks. I may have not plugged something in or some
other dumb thing. Now Ihave all the parts to re-do the seal around the shifter
but have not got thetime or the health to do this anymore. It will also come
with an extrasecondary gear box and some other extra parts just thought I would
offer ithear first I want $3800.00 This is a great bike it also has the louder
pipes onit sounds good. But I do have the stock ones for you old farts out there
if youwant them too. I can send pic's my # 1-815-393-3274 ask for Chuck there
aresome pic's on groups site in pic's thank you all very much Oh ya,, it has
about57,000 on it.
Beautiful ‘86 Cade LXE black and silver and chrome. Everything still works including the radio, cruise, 22000 miles,$4500. Located in Glasgow, KY-USA 270-659-9444
lx, twotone brown, lots of chrome and lights, drivers backrest, highway boards,
CB,am/fm cassette, custom etched windshield, good tires, 44,000 miles in
goodcondition $3,000.00 or best offer. The bike is in St. Louis, MO. My number
is(636) 673-1126. My name is Bob Cox.
have a 1987 LXE black and silver with 55,000 miles,drivers back rest, highway
pegs, new rear Metzler, front Metzler has about5,000 miles on it. Nice bike in
very good condition. I am asking $3,500.00.Call me if interested. Bob Cox
1986 GT Cade is for sale. It has 23,000 miles in verygood condition, maroon on
maroon, lots of extra chrome and lights. Never beenrained on, or wrecked, tires
new about 2000 mile back. Price is $3500. firm,This bike is about as near new as
you will find. There is picture of my Cadeat: http://www.shermanpool.com/Cade/which%20cade/whichcade.htmlIt
is on the first page left hand side
of page. ~Rolland Meismer, Burlington, Iowa U.S.A.
to sell my 86LX two tone brown. 76,000 km. Goodcondition and never misses a
beat. Located in SW Ontario. Cdn. $4350 Mail medirect for information and
pictures or call (519) 843 2051 ~Dave, Fergus ON
LAKE CITY UTAH
LXE. has 70k on it. Everything works and just putnew tires, plugs and air
filter. It’s in great condition and runs great. I’ve neverhad a problem with
it. If interested you can call 801 447-4157 for details. ‘86LXE blue on blue.
$3500. ~ART DAVIS