December, 2003

Here is the December 2003issue of the Cavalcade Owner’s monthly newsletter.  IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO RECEIVE FUTURE MONTHLY ISSUES OF THIS NEWSLETTER, send me an e-mail with the subject field phrase “No Future Issues”. My e-mail address is

CADE RAID 2004 ~BRANSON, MISSOURI ~ August 16-21, 2004

The workshops we will be conducting at Cade Raid 2004will give you an opportunity to learn more about your Cavalcade and even get some “hands-on” experience. Tracy Presnell and others will be there to give you the practical information you need to get the maximum enjoyment out of your beast.

Our home base will be the Grand Plaza Hotel. We have a special group rate of just $55.00 per night for up to 4 people in a room. And if you want to come early or stay longer you can reserve nights before and after Cade Raid 2004 at the same rate. 1-800-850-6646. For you campers, contact “America’s Best Campground” 499 Buena Vista Road, Branson, MO 65616 (417) 336-4399

Mark your calendar now for August 16-20, 2004. We want to see you in Branson.


I'm a brand new owner of 86 LX and I do appreciate learning more about the bike with all of your e-mails.
I'm also chairman for our charity ride that will take place on May 29,2004. It is running from just north of Toronto to Dorset, Ontario. It's a great ride and if you want more info please e-mail me. ~Barry Jaynes,

If you are planning a ride or motorcycle event and would like it posted in next month’s Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter, send it to (



Cavalcade owner Brian Shermanhas designed a business card for owners of the Suzuki Cavalcade can use topromote our group and the web site. There is room in the design for you toinsert your name and telephone number. This card is posted at and if any one wants to edit it with Power Point, Brian has posted it in thatformat at .



Since I have a Kawasaki Nomad 1500 in addition to myCade, thought I would inform the group here of some developments regarding the Suzuki/KawasakiR&D cooperative effort.


First, Suzuki is coming out with their version of theKawasaki Mean Streak. They are using the Kawasaki 1600 engine and frame anddoing their styling treatment to it. It will be called a Marauder.

Second, and more tantalizing - is the news that Kawasaki is making a new 2053ccV-twin Vulcan cruiser. It was just announced this week at the dealer show. Grapevinehas it that a Nomad type version of this will follow shortly and a more dressedtouring version with fairing, and accessories to replace the current Voyager.Will Suzuki get a chance to use this platform and bring back a version of theCavalcade? It could be interesting. The link to the Kawasaki 2000 -

Denny Potoczky, South Bend, IN



On one of myreturn trips from Kentucky, I had stopped at a rest area, maybe it was theFlorida welcome center.  It was late at night and there was an oldergentleman riding a Cavalcade, pulling a trailer. He had been on a long trip, Ithink maybe to Sturgis and then out west.  As he was leaving, I waved athim and he waved back.  The trailer hit a curb that was sticking out andthe trailer flipped.  He kept the bike upright.  It scuffed the topof the trailer, but no major damage.  We turn the trailer back over ontoits wheels.  He was from Orlando area.  I thought that he said thathe was a Suzuki rep or maybe a club representative.  Do you know thisgentleman?  I felt badly about this happening.  If I hadn’t waved athim, then he might have seen the curb and prevented this. Thanks, David





Just got back today from my annual trip toGraceland.  Took the long way this time from Talihina, Oklahoma, to Mena,Arkansas on the Talimena Scenic Drive.  If you ever get a chance to ridethat it is
an awesome route, 62 miles of twisting hilly roads through the QuachitaNational Forest.  Went on to Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, and backstopping in Branson for couple of days.

I stayed at the Grand Plaza Hotel since that is where the Cade Raid 2004 isgoing to be and since I saw some e-mails on it I'll give you my own personalopinion. The room was nice, service good, complimentary breakfast waspretty good, donuts, cereal, toast, yogurt, and fruit, all located on 9th floorof hotel. From what I saw of the meeting room it was probably a lot largerthan Honeysuckle Inn.  Only draw back is the parking due to the limitedamount of level parking surfaces.  The semi level area was very empty andI didn't want to park my bike all by itself out there. Not many level parkingareas in Branson but the only semi level surfaces in the parking lot was downat the bottom of the hill and it will be a good walk back up to the hotel sowon't be as convenient to mingle around the parking lot as the Honeysuckle Inn was. Thiswas probably only about 30-40 yards or so from the hotel but the walk back upwill give you some exercise. Kind of like the one we got last year walkingup to the Country Tonight Show. Anyway after 2217 miles on the Cade I'mback home with my Elvis souvenirs and a sore butt. Looking forward to CadeRaid 2004. ~Kirby, 86 LX, Topeka, Ks.



It is with much regret that have to report the passingof 3 beloved Cavalcades.  With in an 8 week period 3 of the 19 Cavalcadeson New Zealand roads terminated there lives in a shower of broken and bentplastic. All riders survived with light to moderate injuries the most seriousbeing a cracked skull. The rider was released from hospital the next day. It ispossible one of the Cades may be resurrected but I am sure it will take longerthan 3 days.  We may be calling on our state side friends for help infinding replacements for some of the damaged plastic. ~Murray, ‘86LX    



My fan would not come on today on the ride home fromwork so at stop lights the bike would get HOT.  Any help on what to checkor do to fix the problem. Thanks ~Todd from Indianapolis


Todd, I had the sameproblem with my 86 LXE, I got lucky right from the start. On mine it was thefan noise filter, its located right behind the left vent cover, mounted rightto the frame, taking the cover off, you can get right to it. Anyways, check itby starting the bike up; warm it up till you know by the temp gage that the fanshould be on, check for voltage on the incoming side of the filter, and thencheck on the lead going to the fan. I fixed mine by hot wiring it around thefilter, never really had any noise increase.  Worked for me! ~Paul inOhio.... 86 LXE blue on blue...


The fan switch is fairlyeasy to check with a DMM or even an analog meter. Just put the meter on theohms setting and plug it into the fan switch. Run the bike till it gets hotenough that the fan should be coming on. If the ohms reading goes to near 0,then it's working. Also, make sure you have power coming to it (orange wire)when the ignition switch is on. I think someone else also mentioned the noisesuppressor. You should be able to check with ohmmeter as well. ~Tracy



Hello Group, I just bought an'86 Cavalcade from a fellow down the street who was a truck driver, who onlyrode once or twice a year.  It has been sitting for a year and now willnot start.  It doesn’t even make a sound when you push starterbutton.  All the lights and radio are working fine. Being I know nothingabout this bike except that is awful pretty sitting under my carport and thatit only has 24000 miles on it, I would like to put some miles on it myself. myquestion is this what steps to I take to get it up and running, should allfluids be changed before starting and what should I do first to try and startit.  This one is just too pretty to put out to pasture. Thanks in advance,and hope this isn't a stupid question


Hello and welcome to thegroup. You should have received some important and helpful information when youbecame a member. I highly recommend that you read thru all of it if you haven’talready. There are several things that will keep the Cade starter fromengaging. The battery has to be fully charged, it needs to be in neutral,clutch pulled in, off/run switch in run position, etc. Now these willallow it to crank over, but in order to start is another thing. I would suggestgoing over all the items mentioned in the welcome email you received. There aresome very important issues that need to be checked before you fire it up. i.e.,the negative battery leads, proper fluid levels in battery, crankcase,radiator, secondary, and final drive units. HELPFUL HINT*****   whena bike sits for a long time, the fuel evaporates from the carburetor bowls,so to fill them back up before you crank it over, just go thru all the stepsabove, except don’t pull the clutch lever in. You will hear a clicking fromunder the seat, when the clicking stops, then the fuel pump has filled thecarbs back up, and you can now pull the clutch in to start it. Well enough fornow, get to work and then report back with your progress. ~Brian



Has anyone used a Garmin StreetpilotIII GPS on their Cade? If so did you or does anyone else know if it's possibleto bring the audio from the Streetpilot into the intercom. ~Virgil


Ifit has a headphone outlet, you should be ale to do it like us not so fortunatewith a stock CB do with an aftermarket CB. Refer to this helps ~Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX




Tracy, Whattype of switches do you have that are hydraulic?  When I bought my bike,the previous owner had installed a switch in the dash to hold down to replacethe clutch switch.  Do you have hydraulics that replace both the clutchand brake switches? I would be interested in upgrading.  Are they prettymuch a bolt-on? How to order and cost? Thanks ~Bill Calvin, 87 LXE


William, I am sending this toyou and the group since we've got some new members and, even though what I'mabout to write has been stated before, it helps to reiterate it for new membersfrom time to time.


I offer a switch thatreplaces the banjo bolt at the master cylinder and works off the pressure risein the system as you pull in the lever. It works for both the clutch and thebrake. It will operate much faster than the original slide switch on theclutch (the original switch is adjustable to some extent andgenerally operates towards the latter end of the lever stroke for the clutch)and a little slower for the brake (the brake switch generally operatestowards the forward end of the stroke). This has advantages and drawbacks.


The advantage with the clutchis that the switch can be used to trip out the cruise with a slight tug of thelever with one finger (not even operating the clutch but just raising thepressure enough to kick the switch). I find this very useful. On the otherhand, when starting the bike, you need to make a conscience effort to pull theclutch in completely to prevent a lurch forward if the bike's not in neutral.Personally, I like the faster operation at road speed enough to outweigh thestarting issue. In my mind, I would much rather have the switch perfectlyfunctional and faster when I'm traveling at road speed since thingsare happening pretty fast. If I forget to pull the clutch in when startingin gear then there is the chance that I might drop the beast and have toendure the task of picking it up while my pride slowly drips away asonlookers point and snicker. So far that hasn't happened.


For the brakes, the lateroperation than the stock switch isn't as much of a blessing since the brakelights and cruise no-op will happen only after the pressure in the system raisesenough to operate the switch. Since the brakes are a zero static pressuresystem, the pressure required to operate the switch comes at about thetime the brakes actually start to grab. The thing I've found is that the hydraulicswitches are 100% reliable and operate at exactly the same time every time.I like that. Also, they require NO ongoing maintenance as they are sealed.


So, the choice is yours. Someonly change the clutch switch. Others change both. I have been using them onboth for the last year and 9K miles and am perfectly happy with the operation.They are $15.75 each and can be ordered online at andclick the CD-ROM link at the top left corner of that page. Or, you can order bymail or phone if you're more comfortable with that. ~Tracy



I had earlier reported some intermittent problems with#2 firing.  Lately I've had additional trouble. I’m not sure if it'sfuel, firing or what. I have had some flutter/skip-miss or somethingthrough the gears then it smoothes out. It seems similar to either flooding orstarving for fuel. I wonder if it's related to the earlier miss-firing. Areplug wires, coils, etc available anywhere?


T~> Sure they are. What else can I tell you?


Q~> First, is it safe to assume that the blackrectangular box with metal fins and two screws in the top is the r/r?

If it's the one on the right (as you sit on the bike) then that'smost likely it.

Q~> What is the double black box about the same size that is mountednext to it?


Q~> What is the cylindrical white plastic thingy mounted just over it?

Coil. One of 4 on the bike.

Q~> Somewhere in these emails I remember something about you having somesocket head cap screws available. Were these replacement screws for the ones Ihave taken out today to remove the fairing?

T~> They are buttonhead socket head stainless steel and they are to replace those screws that onetakes out to take bodywork off.

Q~> If so, I want to purchase the whole set. I have spent more timetrying to get screws with stripped Phillips heads out than anything else. Isure would like to go back with a different type of screw to make the next timeeasier.

That's why I made them available. Go to click the CD-ROM link at the top left corner of that page.

Q~> Does anyone know a really good way to remove a Phillips head screwonce the head is stripped out?

There's no perfect way, but you can sometimes get them started witha chisel and hammer or maybe a punch. You need the shock factor to get itstarted out. Just try to get as far out towards the OD of the head and give itseveral good whacks. It's hard to get the edge of the chisel started into theface of the screw head since it's rounded but they are pretty soft. ~Tracy



I finally have my Cavalcade all back together and everythingis working again. I had it in the shop and they got the electricals working. Theysaid it was just a fuse, but I know that I checked them all. I still needsome help. When I was having all of the trouble, I asked about the reading fromthe white connector to ground. One of the wires goes to the regulator/rectifier. Thereis no reading on that one. The other wire is the ground for everythingelse.  The last time that I asked, I was told that there should be noresistance on that wire to the frame. Well, with everything working, Istill have a resistance in that wire. If you have access to thisconnector, please take a reading from the wire and the motorcycle and tell mewhat you get. I am hoping that it is some resistance.  Thanks. ~Tom(1986 LXE in Alabama)


Depends on which direction you're checking it. If you'rechecking from the connector into the wiring harness to ground, yes, there'sgoing to be resistance. There has to be as it's going through the loads to getto ground. But, if you check it from the connector towards the battery thenthere should be little if any resistance from the connector to the frame. And,if you go anywhere on the bike to a black/white tracer wire to the frame, youshould get a pretty low resistance. Just looking at fuses can be deceiving.Sometimes you have to ohm them out to find a bad one. ~T



Can anyone explain the easiest way toget to my dash lights, I have one burned out behind the fuel gauge. ~Jason, 87lx, Topeka KS

Take off windshield. Remove dash cover(you can do this by taking out the screws that hold the inner fairing panels tothe dash that are behind the speaker covers and carefully lifting it out with alittle bending of The plastic). Take off 2 - nuts that hold gauge assembly inand lift it up. Replace bulbs as required. Reverse process. It takes about30-45 minutes. ~T

ColdWeather Help!

Tracy, I got my Cade thisyear and I ride year round, summer and the dead of winter.  The nightshere in VA in the mountains are already down to 20o's to 30o's at night. Thanks in advance. ~Darryl


Darryl, Maybe some of thiswill help:

1) Adjust the choke cable. Make sure that it pulls the plungers fully but allowsthem to release fully.

2) Change to a synthetic oil and, maybe, change to a thinner grade like a 5W30.

3) Make sure that the battery is actually in good condition. Even though itseems fully charged, put a meter on it and see what the voltage does during starting.If it drops below 10 volts, it may be time for a new one.

4) You might need new brushes in the starter

5) Make sure you have good connections at the battery and the solenoid and thestarter

6) Make sure you prime the carbs by pushing the starter button without pullingin the choke. Do this until the fuel pump stops clicking

There's no reason that the bike shouldn't start when cold and only sitting overnight.~Tracy



Q~> Regarding article"Checking the Secondary for the Presence or Absence of the Plug", Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced betweenthe housing and bearing carrier once removed?>


T~> No. There's an o-ringon the bearing carrier and the lube transfer tube.


Q~> Also, until I getthe Cade - Plug, should I try and  push the pre existing plug intighter to be safe, until I get to replace it?>>


T~> Pushing the plug inisn't going to accomplish anything. The reason it falls out is because therubber coating looses its elasticity and its grip on the interior of thedriven gear. The best thing to do is make a dipstick and keep tabs onthe level. Even after replacing the plug with the machined one, I stillrecommend that the level be checked often to resolve any other leaks that mighthappen. I check mine every 500 miles or so.


Q~> Last question...Amsoil synthetic 80-90 wt gear oil OK?>>


T~> Oh yeah! Might as welluse the best. ~Tracy



Tracy, I did get thru to Shade Tree finally. found outthe 9 is for the gap. I also found out there is no DPR8EA with out the 9. theoriginal plugs called for .28 gap the DPR8EA call for .36. can they be used andjust gag them at .28?


Well, good question. Here's something I learned at theNGK website:

The plug specified for the Cade has the double platinum tip because it usesthe small tip and electrode. The platinum is required since the spark energy isdistributed over a very narrow tip unlike conventional spark plugs that have alarger tip and correspondingly larger electrode. Part of why they reduced thetip diameter is to limit quenching. Quenching is when some of the spark energy(heat) is drawn away from the gap by the tip and electrode. More heat drawn off= less heat for ionizing the air in the gap area that sets off combustion.

The reason they make plugs with different gaps is because the tips are groundto be parallel through a specific gap range with the electrode to help focusthe spark. If you gap a plug too far from it's recommended range then thetip/electrode gets out of line and the spark may not be as focused andtherefore may not be as hot.

The Cade's system was designed to use a specific gap and so if you deviate toomuch (going too wide) you are causing the spark energy to be distributed over agreater gap and therefore it has to ionize correspondingly more air to set offthe explosion and may do so with less vigor.

I don't think there's much problem with a few thousandths over (say up to dunno.If you had aftermarket, hotter coils then certainly not. But, with stock coils,you are asking the spark energy to distribute over a distance 1/3 greater thanit was originally designed to do. Will gapping the .036 plugs at .028 hurt?Maybe not. I would think that you could gap them at .030 without too much harmdone. ~Tracy



<<My questions is whydon't I have to prime the carburetor in the summer time?>>

Same reason you had to run the heater on the bike for an hour before it wouldstart without priming. Because it's warmer.

<<If the bowls are leaking down in the winter would they not leakdown in the summer also?>>

I don't know that the bowls are "leaking down", however, the gasin the bowls when you shut it off was probably pretty warm since the carbs sit abovea fairly hot engine. But, as it all cools down, the gas shrinks with the tempchange and the bowls are magically less full than when you shut it off. Whenyou top off the bowls with the pump, you get a better charge through theenrichment jet since the level is higher and it takes lightly less vacuum(actually pressure differential) to get the fuel up into the choke circuit andinto the cylinders.

<<know if the Cade electric system can handle 12volt heater glovesand a 12 heater vest before I buy these items? And can I run both at the sametime.>>

How many watts or amps will you be pulling? If you don't have a bunch of extralights, you’ll probably be OK. ~Tracy



I want to get a pair ofhelmets with the audio but I have no idea how you hook it to the radio systemfor the driver or passenger. I don't see where it plugs in. Can you enlightenme? ~Steven L. Mostov


Follow this link #sk-51 $51.00


If you don't have theplug-ins front and rear, see instructions for installation at orit's on the CD under the accessories section. It's called the headset junctionkit (or something like that). ~Tracy



Floorboards Are Available

Just a reminder, floor boards for the Cavalcade areavailable from The company did agree to make 30 sets for theCade and it has taken them awhile to get them sold. ~Tracy

This is a post with a goodnote to it. Just wanted to let ya know that the long back ordered Dunlopfront tires are finally available again. ~ I got my 491 Elite II thrudiscount MC tire,  took it to the local dealer with the front wheel, andthey took off the old and installed the new, and balanced it for me for$20.00. I then brought it back here and proceeded to grease the wheelbearings that have 54k miles on them, grease the speedo drive (which took themost time) and install the wheel back on the bike by myself, with rotor covers,and had no problems what-so-ever!!! Now the only reason I'm posting this is: 1)some people seem to have trouble getting the new tire to seat on the rim 2) others have had trouble getting the wheel back on the bike with rotor coversby them selves  3) others have trouble getting the speedo drive lined upwith the notches in the rim 4) and whatever else people might of had troublewith. I just wanted everyone to know that working on these bikes ain’t asbad as they hear in this group. Most people post when they have problems, anddon’t when everything goes good. So don’t be afraid to dig in and do ityourself. If you have problems, that’s why we are here.  Have a great day.~Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX

Got any idea what the U-Jointrepair will cost at the dealer????  Go ahead tell me I am setting down.~Bill

Bill: With TRACY supplying the parts
      1.160.00 NEW driveshaft
      2. 56.00 NEW SEAL KIT for the secondary(Should replace the  
              OLD ONES) ( FROM EXPERIENCE)
      3. 17.00 New improved plug. DO IT NOW (FROMEXPERIENCE)
      4. 18.00 New driveshaft boot.. Will morethan likely need one
        251.00 total plus shipping

The job will require around 4 t0 8 hrs labor with a mechanic that knowswhat he is doing, and is familiar with the cavalcade, so figuring 65.00 per hrlabor that's around 260.00 on the low with $520.00 on the high I'lljust ball park it at between $550.00 and 800.00, IF you can find a mechaniclocally that will take it on.? If it is the drive shaft IT NEEDS to be lookedafter and NOT RIDDEN till it is fixed. By any means it needs to be checked asto where the CLUNK is coming from.

Where are you located? There might besomeone willing to help you out if you're at all mechanically inclined youcould do it yourself for the cost of parts only. It's really more of a pain inthe arse job, than
HARD to do. However if you're doubtful as to your abilities, let some onewith mechanical experience take it on and make sure you are able to supply amanual. Cavalcade mechanics went south. There are only a couple left. Thesecondary drive system on these bikes is UNIQUE to Suzuki only. You should alsohave the clutch slave checked and possibly rebuilt or replaced while into thiswork (FROM EXPERIENCE). GOOD LUCK with your project. ~Walter n Maryland

Cost Of Repairs
A long time back (before I met this group) I had an oil leak at the drive shaftand figured it was probably a gasket.  Checked with the dealer as to costand he gave me a figure of about $600.  Well, for $50 for gaskets and anew plug and a lot of my own time I did it myself and learned a lot along theway.  Point is that you can save a lot of cash and become aquatinted withyour ride if you take the time to do it yourself.  One of the reasons Idecided to do a lot of my own work is that way I might be able to fix my ownproblems on the road instead of sitting in a hotel room while waiting for ashop to get me on the road again.
~ Clair in PA


The guys that did the great job on myradio are: AJR St Louis, 128 Weldon Parkway, Maryland Heights, MO 63043 ~ PH:314-983-9167 Fax: 314-994-9387

They w
ill do repairs/parts via U.S. Postal Service...I’m not sure if theystock stainless switches, but would probably get them for you.  The formerowner of this shop, was a Cade rider who sadly passed away in the
past year or so.  The company has been around this area since thefifties originally doing car radio repairs.  Hope this helps somebody. ~Rich– STL, MO 


Northfairfield, ohio

1986 lx for sale 105,626 miles brown/brown. Lots of goodies.Contact Dave Stillion, 419-744-9505 .



I am selling a 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE Two Tone Burgundywith 20,000 miles on it. I have the Tracy Plug but it’s not installed.Everything works and it has good tires asking $4700.00 send e-mail for pictures or call 912-572-8756 ~Lee



I will be putting my bike up for sale soon. I am justmaking sure that I have a clear title for it. The bike is an 88LX.  It iscurrently not running but the bike is 99% complete. It would make a great partsbike, or if someone wants a new project. I'm asking $800 for it. Email me if you have any questions. ~Philip



FOR SALE, MY CAVALCADE. This bike was used for shrineparades only. XLE always garaged. “lindyfields"



Well.. It's finally cometime to part with my friend of 18 years. I have a 1986 Cade, bought it new,have all the paperwork from day one. After I bought it, I went back and gotsome of the LXE parts installed.. IE: the light bar around the front lowerarea, helmet sound system, fairing lowers, CB, etc. It's got 29000 miles, andis in great shape but showing her years on the paint. It’s been riddenregularly, mainly in Big Bend. Every gadget, toy, button, pump, and geegawworks. I had a minor accident a few years ago and had to replace the upper rightfairing and couldn't find the Brown so went with a Gold part, but there was nodamage to the frame, engine or driveline, just quit paying attention and raninto the back of an SUV stopped at a red light at about 5 mph. Never did getaround to painting it. It has some fading on top of the trunk and saddlebags,but otherwise in good shape. There's, what I would call, the normal dings, andwear on some of the plastic, but it's all there and in good serviceablecondition. I even have the original, UNUSED luggage bags. I had new Metzlertires put on last week and rear brakes, (didn't need them, but figured,"hey, while I'm here"). During the tire install, I managed to get theexhaust to leak at the front end and haven't fixed that, but I did buy the newbrass (?) collars and chrome clips to install. They're still in the box. I'moffering/including an original Motor Mate travel cargo trailer if you like.I've got lots of new pictures I can email anyone interested, depending on yourconnection speed. This bike is completely worthy and ready to ride anywhere inthe country. "She ain't a show bike" but she's in good shape and veryvery dependable... never let me down. $3300 takes her home. For $350 more theMotor Mate trailer goes too. This trailer is an original. I was the originaldesigner / mfgr of cargo trailers back in the 70's and even have the Road RiderMagazine (March 1976) road test of my design. Tested and written up by Ron Carpenter(for those of you whose memories go back that far <G>) If you need it, Ieven have a VERY VERY sturdy bike trailer (made from drill stem pipe), 6' widedrive up tailgate, two large tool/cargo boxes I'll sell with it for $400 more.This trailer will carry (and has) the Cade and an RS1100 easily. I usually loadup the Cade and the Motor Mate on the trailer, hook up to my RV and head outready for anything. I'm getting a little "long in the tooth" nowadays,and my wife is NOT into touring.. arrgh! I'm in Austin Texas 512-454-3469 picturesupon request,  I'm just getting alittle too old and now use my RV more than the Cade. jac vinson





Though she resides in a dealer's shop for the winter, out of the cold, and damp, I will have for sale a 1986 Cavalcade for sale come spring.  It's an LX, but with so many extra chrome goodies on her, she draws stares pretty well anywhere we've stopped.  There's about 103,000 Kilometers on the bike (what's that, about 65,000 miles?) and is in fine condition.  Other hobbies have taken my time and have hardly ridden this year.  Anybody still interested in a gorgeous looking Canadian version LX by spring? I have pix, but not digital.  I can get the slides scanned if need be and in fact should do if I'm serious (which I am).  Just that the bike is in a garage with many others and she won't be viewable until the snow (which hasn't arrived yet) is gone, many months from now.  I'm in Southeastern Ontario, about an hour's drive from Watertown, NY. Thanks, ~DJ Fear, Email: