August, 2004

Here is the August 2004 issue of the Cavalcade Owner's monthly newsletter.  IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO RECEIVE FUTURE MONTHLY ISSUES OF THIS NEWSLETTER, send me an e-mail with the subject field phrase "No Future Issues". My e-mail address is
If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event of
interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.
Order these souvenir items while they last. Proceeds go to the
Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Club. Tees are $15 (add $1 for XXL & $2 for
XXXL). Cups are $10. Add $5 shipping. Mail check or MO to: Cade Raid
2004, 23703 NE 4th Street, Sammamish, WA 98074.
I've been looking on your site over a period of time now and it's
really great! You are doing an admirable work through your homepage,
keeping us "Cavalcade owners of the world" together.

Some short facts about us in Sweden:
1992 founded we the "Suzuki Cavalcade Club Sweden", with some help
from Norway (Norway started their club two years earlier in
1990, "Suzuki Cavalcade Club Norway).
In Sweden were 67 Cavalcade sold (only as LX) between 1985 - 1988,
but there are also some 2 or 3 more (imported from Canada) here.
Most of these are members in our little club (in fact is the club is
slowly growing while some who sold there bikes still want to be

We organize meetings two times a year (at "spring" around Mai/June,
and at "fall" in beginning of August) where our friends from Norway
also normally participate.  You can now find us at:

I would appreciate if you could put a link even to our homepage!
Regrettable is our homepage only in Swedish. Norway asked Suzuki
Japan (many years ago), if there was any official numbers of how
many Cavalcade's were made and where they were sold.
This is the answer we got:  Around 8.500 were produced ~ Last
production dates were in Mai 1990
    Biggest markets and numbers:

U.S.A.                                   7.500 st.
Canada                                     700 st.
Belgium                                    120 st.
Norway                                      77 st.
Sweden                                      67 st.
Finland                                     10 st.
Holland                                     10 st.

N.B. These are the countries to which they originally were sold.
I know of some in Germany (imported from Belgium) and some in
England (imported from Canada or the States, not sure) and one in
Denmark. Best regards!

Bengt Sundberg
Secretary (since 1992)

OK guys, Al had me upload the photos of the flag mast to the site.
To see them, click on the below link, sign in with your user name
and password if need be, then click on the flag mast folder. Thanks
Al for your work on these.

~Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Has anyone installed a cigarette lighter?  If so, please tell me
what worked for you and what didn't.  I can go buy one from AutoZone
and install it from the battery with an inline fuse, but figured
someone out there may have done something with auxiliary power, etc.
~Waco Bill

I just installed a new lighter today. What I purchased was a lighter
receptacle that had a rubber boot to keep rain and moister out of
the receptacle, that is what happen to my last one it simply rusted
out from rain water getting down in the receptacle. The cost of the
rubber booted receptacle was on $6.99 at my local auto parts store
(Auto Zone). By the way it does not come with a lighter; I simply
used my original equipment Cavalcade lighter, works fine. To install
the new light is very simple.
l. Remove the left pocket on fairing.
2. Remove the two wires attached to the original lighter.
3. Unscrew the original lighter by holding the top exposed part of
the lighter with a pair of pliers (That is why you remove the two
wires first), and reach your hand inside of the fairing, grab the
original lighter by its bottom case and unscrew.
    The original lighter will come apart in two pieces.
4. To installed the new lighter reverse the procedure.
5. The two wires will only go on ONE way, they cannot be reversed.
Any new lighter that you purchase will fit the Cade it is a standard
lighter fixture. The best part is the original Cade lighter fits in
the receptacle and when the whether gets bad you can close the light
up with the rubber boot. ~Darryl

After Reading about the extra load capacity of the Avon Venom X
tires posted on 4/23/04 by Micky Farrington, I started shopping
around for a rear AM 42[150/90H-15].I found a mail order company
called Shade tree power sports.[1-800-927-8523.] They have the tire
I need for an unbelievable $122.00! [14.00 shipping Fed-Ex]  Dennis
Kirk gets $159.00 for the exact same tire! My local Suzy shop wants
$210.00.! I ordered one, got it in only two days. I will have it
mounted this weekend. I have no relation to this company, just
thought others needing really low prices would be interested. Their
website is; Here's to a safe and enjoyable
riding season. [In Florida, that's ALL YEAR!] ~Doug Woodin, Bunnell,

I hope I don't tick anyone off for asking this question again, I
know it was on the discussion table not too long ago. My Cade is up
for an oil change in about 400 miles. I am going to switch over to
synthetic oil.  First question-- will this help shifting be a little
smoother??  And second, I was thinking of using Mobil 1 synthetic
oil. Is this o.k.??? ~Joe in pa.

Joe, I had clutch slippage on an LXE I bought last March. I changed
to Barnett springs. There was a little oil leakage at the left
gasket, which was my fault because of my getting in a rush while
fixing the stator, trying to get ready for a bike camping trip to Mt
Rainier. I dealt with the oil leakage by stuffing a paper towel
between the engine and the footboard bracket. It needed its diapers
changed about every 500 miles or so.

Then, since I had changed to heavier springs, I decided to go ahead
with full synthetic oil. It quieted a clattery top end, and it
smoothed the shifting a little. So I was sold on the synthetic oil.
But it did leak more, about triple what it was before. I needed to
change the paper towel at every gas stop.

So I decided to try to reseal that left gasket using Honda Bond.  It
worked.  I just got back from a bike camping trip in the Sierras,
about 700 miles, and it didn't leak a drop.  I had a paper towel in
there and it came out perfectly clean.

Conclusion: synthetic oil appears to make a leak worse if it already
leaks.  But if you clean the gasket surfaces with tender loving
care, with the patience of the saints, get it cleaner than clean,
and do it yourself as opposed to hiring an overworked impatient bike
mechanic, then put it together with Honda Bond on both sides of the
gasket, it should seal. 

The engine and tranny seem to love that synthetic oil. Mileage may
have gone up about 1 or 2 mpg, but I don't really have enough data
to establish statistical significance. No clutch slippage even under
hard acceleration. I used Castrol, only because it was on the shelf
at the local parts store. I might use the Amsoil if I can find it.
Tracy says its good stuff. ~Spike

As I've been reading the posts on adding the stability issue to the
VIN list I'm kind of taken back to the time that the plug issue
first came up. It was this type of discussion (maybe sans the VIN
list part) that prompted me to do something about it and develop the
plug. Fortunately, I had a bike here with a failed plug. I wasn't
even aware of it when I bought it as a parts bike. But, after
finding that the plug had failed, the secondary drive had locked up,
and finding other telltale signs of a high speed wheel lock, it was
obvious why the bike was taken out of service with only 28K miles on
the ticker.

Something we know is that Suzuki was doing something about the plug.
They changed the design to make it longer to catch more surface area
and maybe stay in better. There may have been other less pronounced
dimensional changes to create a tighter fit that we're not aware of.
However, at the end of the day it's still a rubber coated metal
plug. And, as rubber sees enough heat and pressure, it will flow
(creep) and loosen the fit. I know there are bikes out there with a
lot of miles without a problem but, there are a lot of bikes out
there with few miles that had the problem. So, we do our best to
spread the word and inform and provide a solution. I think we've
done well, we can always do better.

Now, we're talking about a new subject (not absolutely new but newly
fresh in our minds) and it's important that we not simply toss the
issue aside if it becomes annoying but try and investigate it and
see if there is, in fact, a root cause that we can deal with.

I'm not sure at this point you can package it and label it for the
VIN list in such a way that will offer a tremendous amount of
insight. The causes are many so unless you can nail it down to a
single one, the VIN list may show an entry but not a cause. At least
with the secondary we have a definite cause. Other items on the list
are also easy to define, water pump, radio switches (might as well
put 'em all on there for that one), etc. However, that shouldn't
keep us from at least entering in the information. The VIN list is a
living document that Spike can change at the click of a mouse. So, I
say let's put something in there if for no other reason than to keep
a log of the known cases.

And, we know that Suzuki was having trouble with the fork braces.
Why else would they have changed the design/dimensions twice in 3
years? I think they were having cracked braces and they were trying
to fix it. First, they went from the squared-off early 86 design to
the rounded late 86/87 design with new hole spacings, then they went
to new hole spacings again in 88 and, from what I've been told, a
slightly different design than the 87 brace. If something was
working then there would be no reason to change it. Suzuki was
changing it or a reason. They did the same thing with the driveshaft
(u-joint size) and front brake calipers (squealing brakes) and brake
rotors (added cleaning grooves to also address squealing). When you
see that Suzuki was changing things, which probably indicates they
were trying to address problems.

Are cracked/broken braces the root cause of front end
stability/tankslappers? I dunno. My bike had a SuperBrace on it from
the day I got it so riding without one (other than test riding other
bikes for short distances) is something I just haven't done much.
However, rest assured that I will make available SB style fork
braces at a reasonable cost (not saying that a SB at $130 is too
much but I think I can do a lot better meaning that a lot more
riders will spend the $ to install one). And, if the addition of a
superior brace can minimize the threat of front end instability and
we can make it as affordable as possible so that everyone can have
one and we can keep it in the forefront by having it on the VIN list
as a potential cause of problems to increase awareness, then we've
done a good thing. ~Tracy

As I have been 'stuck' in a VERY tedious set of meetings this week,
I did some further digging. The following sites have some
interesting reading material that is pertinent to the Wobbles.  In
particular, they show a way to test for stability, albeit a bit
scary, and perhaps best left to a really experienced rider.

They are not Cavalcade specific, but may provide some insights. What
I can gather is that the tendency to break into a true Tank Slapper,
is dependent on any number of items affecting steering stability. 
Tire pressure, bike stance, lean angle, acceleration/deceleration,
loading, etc.  It seems that steering dampers are claimed to prevent
this, but that may be simple advertising hype.

~Peter in Nova Scotia

Just as a note. I am checking on the price but have something else
to share. I've known about ceramic based exhaust coatings for a few
years. They're extremely high temperature (1300-2000 F) and are
pretty good at protecting the underlying metal from corrosion. I
have some of the ceramic coating material coming and am going to
coat a pre-muff assembly with it. I've already sandblasted and wire
brushed it to get to clean, solid base metal. The material is
applied with an airbrush or touch-up gun. It can be baked on or you
can simply let the heat of op cure it after install.

It's kinda pricey for what you get ($20 for 4 ounces) but I'm also
going to coat the rear pipes (from cylinder head to pre-muff) and
the flanges and clamps and bolts. My hope is that it will stave off
any on-going corrosion and make it look a lot better. I will let you
know how it works out. Even though the pre-muff was well rusted on
the outside, after sandblasting to base metal it is still sound.

One last comment on oils...I promise
Just so there's no confusion, a couple of thoughts on dino/synth

1) When/if you change to synth oil from dino oil there is no need to
do any sort of "changeover" oil change. Just drain the dino and put
in the synth. They are completely compatible with each other.

2) There is no reason to do a "3 day drain down" to rid the motor of
the dino oil. Just drain the dino until it stops flowing at the
drain plug and starts to drip. Put the drain plug back in then. The
additional oil that you might get out if out if you leave it set for
3 days or 3 months is insignificant.

3) No matter how long you leave out the drain plug not all of the
oil will drain out. There are places in the motor that hold oil that
you can't get to. Don't sweat it. The amount of oil that's left in
the motor will instantly be diluted to the point that it doesn't

4) The only side effect of synth oil is possibly some clutch
slippage. A set of Barnett clutch springs should be standard
equipment if you are changing to synth oil and will resolve that.

5) Not all synth oils are rated for extended drain intervals. Check
the oil manufacturer's recommendations.

6) Use a quality oil filter no matter what oil you use. If one brand
of filter costs $2 and another costs $5, there is probably a
difference. My personal choices are WIX or NAPA (same filter). ~Tracy
Tracy, There was a show on this weekend called Top Dead Center. They
used a thermal-imaging camera, pointed at the motor from across the
room, to test synthetic vs. conventional motor oil, on a Harley. I
don't remember the exact numbers but the synthetic ran eleven
degrees cooler than conventional oil, in there test. They only had
the bike idling with a fan on it. Their conclusion was that running
cooler meant more horsepower. To me it meant longer engine life and
possibly less horsepower wasted to friction.
It was so hot on the 405 the other day that the clutch lever burnt a
line across the fingers on my left hand, the temperature needle got
into the red and I had to pull over and let the old girl cool off. I
think synthetic motor oil may help the Cavalcade run cooler, once
pass the preset thermostat setting, in hot conditions. So my
question is what are the best synthetic oils that are available in
so Cal? Mark

Any secret to bleeding the rear brake?  I thought I knew how but my
efforts have been unsatisfactory.  I can get some resistance and
with the bike on the center stand in first gear I can slow the wheel
down but I can't stall the engine. Still seems to have air but can't
seem to dislodge it. ~Thanks

Are the pads new and not seated to the rotors yet? Have you ridden
it yet? Is the motor just idling? What procedure did you use?
Pressure on pedal, crack bleeder (one at a time), pedal gets to
bottom, close bleeder, release pedal, wait a second, repeat. ~Tracy

I continue to have starting issues. Started to back track from
Tracy's switch. Did the test from the CD on the starting relay and
found no continuity. Went and picked up a new switch, now I have
continuity ALL of time. Is the new one bad or is there something you
have to do differently when hooking a new relay? The orientation is
slightly different, but that is it. Thanks for the help as always.
The sun's shining and I am stuck in the garage. ~Maury, 86 LXE,
Auburn, WA

That is the starter relay. And, if you have continuity all of the
time then I doubt that it's in the new relay. If you disconnect the
2 small wires from the relay and use a meter on them, you should
have 12V on the colored wire with the ign switch on and you should
have a complete circuit when you hold in the clutch and push the
start button (put a meter lead in each wire and with the key on you
should have continuity).

Also, the relay should have continuity between the small terminals
(wires disconnected) but it won't 0 ohms. The coil has some
resistance. And, the big terminals should NOT have continuity when
the relay is off. If you have continuity between the small wires
without the clutch pulled in and/or without the start button pushed
then you have a short to ground. Probably. Will have to trace it out
to find. ~Tracy

Thanks Tracy, I am not a great spark chaser. Now when I bench test
the new relay, the big terminals have continuity. That is with
nothing hooked to the relay.  The small terminals to the coil have 5
ohms resistance on the bench.

So since the big terminals have continuity is this possibly why once
I hook it up to the bike and hit the start button the starter
continues to run even with the key off until I pull the starter lead
from the relay? Also, how do I use the tester to look for a short to
ground?  Thanks for helping an amateur electrician. ~Maury

You have to be a little careful about where you are measuring
voltage. You might be measuring the voltage drop across the coil of
the start relay instead of the actual voltage available. If you
disconnect the relay hot wire, then measure it; that should give you
the correct voltage reading. Also, most relays won't work of the
voltage falls below about 9 volts. ~Tracy

My new Cade runs hot.  On the highway (of course it IS summer 90-
some degrees) it is two thirds of the white arc, but in town it
climbs to the end of the white, where the white has the little mark.
It has never gone into the red, and the fan runs fine. My mechanic
thinks it's OK, as long as the fan runs. ~Vince

The gauges are somewhat inaccurate. If the fan runs, I wouldn't
sweat it. It's probably just the gauge. Mine's off about the same
amount. Check procedure in the manual using resistors. You can at
least verify that it's off or not. ~Tracy

I just put my new fork brace on Saturday morning, and rode with it
for the first time today.  I did over 400 miles today, and I did
notice that the bike "stuck" better in the curves.  One thing that
the bike was doing today, and maybe it was just the roads I was
traveling (2 lane farm-to-market roads mostly here in Texas) but the
bike seemed to be "pogo-ing" without any sort of pattern to it. It
felt as if I was hitting small bumps in the road constantly.  Now my
suspicion is that the front forks have been flexing when I was
hitting those ripples in the road, and therefore the "bouncing" was
not transmitted to the suspension.

Also, when I installed the fork brace, I had to loosen the front
axel in order to press the brace between the forks.  I retightened
the front axel and all, but maybe I did something incorrect. Has
anyone else experienced a "pogo" stick type of action on their
bike?  I don't suspect the brace at all, but maybe my installation
was faulty and someone will recognize where I went awry.  That or it
is an entirely different circumstance that is causing this?
One thing that keeps popping into my mind is the possibility that I
am getting inconsistent fire to one of my cylinders and it is
causing it to surge when it fires and balk when it doesn't.    This
pogo-ing action seems to start at about 55 or so and persists all
the way past 75. My primary guess (if I had to name just one) is
that I am experiencing a better ride because now the bike is not
flexing improperly and hiding the imperfections of the road surface.
~Bill Haberl, 86 b/b LX

IMPORTANT! You should not have to loosen the axle nut to install the
fork brace. It is precision machined and will drop into place with
maybe a hit from your hand. What I suspect is that you are missing a

There is supposed to be washer between the speedo drive and the left
fork leg. The only reason it should be missing is because you have
rotor covers. But, if you don't have rotor covers, then the washer
MUST be there. Sometimes is gets installed on the outside of the
fork leg but it must go inside the fork leg between the leg and the
speedo drive. If yours is missing completely, you can substitute a
9/16" flat washer (an SAE type will look better) or you can order
one from Suzuki.

The proper way to set of the front end is.
1) Jack the front end up so there is no weight on the tire
2) Loosen the axle pinch clamp so that the axle nut can be loosened
3) Loosen the fork brace bolts
4) make sure the washer is in place
5) Pry the brake pads away from the rotors just so they are not
6) Tighten the axle nut
7) Tighten the axle pinch clamp nuts
8) Tighten the fork brace bolts
9) Pump the brake lever slowly to set the pads against the rotors

If you don't follow these instructions exactly, you run the risk of
wearing out one side of your brake pads before the other, the forks
will not work properly and will have sticktion in them since you are
bending them as you tighten the axle nut, you may wear out the
bushings in the forks prematurely. ~Tracy

I enjoyed the read of these articles. Thanks for the links.

I dunno if the Cade suffers from an inherent problem as the GW
appeared to have. While there may be some speed and some condition
that will create the right frequency that is impossible to damp by
hand, there are so many variables (tires, tire wear, loading,
attitude etc) it might be just the luck of the draw that they would
all converge into a tankslapper. In fact, if you were to look at all
of the miles ridden of every Cade compared to how many
uncontrollable TS that occurred, you might have better odds of
winning the lottery.

I still think we should keep this discussion going and those that
experience some stability problem should express it through the
forum so we can all be aware and look towards some possible semi-
definitive solution. ~Tracy

Okay I can't stand it any more. You want to know about wobbles in
motorcycles. Okay hears the deal.
All motorcycles have different speeds and different frequencies they
will wobble at. The frequency depends on a lot of factors combined,
stiffness of the components. Frame, fork, wheels etc.
Condition of the components, settings, loading, aerodynamics and
center of gravity are a large part of it.
Swing weight of the handlebars can be a factor as well. The little
weights on the ends of the handlebars dampen vibration but are
exactly in the wrong place for handling.
All this combines to set up a condition where the motorcycle will
oscillate. Most motorcycles have two or three speed ranges that they
will oscillate at, but this changes depending on all the variable
factors. Low speed wobbles are not a big problem. High-speed wobbles
can take a motorcycle down.
Now all you need is something to start it.
How about a one-handed lane change at 70 mph.
40 lbs. in the trunk
A 2 1/2 inch bump in the asphalt along the dotted line
Swirls in the air behind a semi-truck.
So what to do?
Keep up on the mechanical maintenance of the motorcycle. I think
Tracy has pretty well covered that.
Be very careful how you load the motorcycle. Weight down low between
the axles makes the motorcycle more stable. Weight outside this area
makes the motorcycle less stable. The trunk on my Cavalcade is rated
to carry 22 lbs., when we are traveling my wife's purse weighs that
much by its self!
I think the biggest factor is we are not keeping good control of the
motorcycle. The Cavalcade is a wonderful motorcycle, comfortable,
powerful, and capable. On the highway if feels rock solid stable. So
we flip on the cruse control, kick back and pat the 'ol lady on the
leg and think all is well. That's when you find that big bump. You
need to keep your hands on the bars all the time and stay on top if
it all the time. If you have your hands on the grips and are riding
well all the time you have a much better chance of surviving any
thing you might encounter be if a wobble or a left turning station
wagon. Now if you are ready for it,
40 lbs. in the trunk
A 2 1/2 inch bump in the asphalt along the dotted line
And swirls in the air behind a semi-truck.
Will only raise you hart rate a little.
The Cavalcade is large, heavy, and has a high center of gravity.
This makes it a little spooky for low speed maneuvering but I don't
think it is any more prone to wobble than the average large touring
motorcycle. However more prone than an unladed cruiser.
Now what happened to Jim? Pulling a trailer coast to coast and
surviving shows Jim is a prudent rider, It sounds to me that he got
the bike sideways, got it back upright, and got the trailer whipping
in the process.
Good job on getting it back under control Jim. That is an
oscillation but not the one we have been talking about. Oh and don't
ever take your hands off the bars and hit the grips! ~ Mark
I'm thinking about buying a Cade...2nd hand of course! For what so I
have to look? Known problems?

I don't what this to be a book but I would like to respond to your

#1. Buyer beware. The reasons one divests themselves of a Cade (or
any bike for that matter) are varied but the fact remains that
whatever that reason is, that seller is generally ready to part with
it and generally wants to get as much $ as possible. Depend on the
fact that the seller isn't going to tell you all of the bad things
about it. Those little things that he/she may have become accustomed
to that may, in fact, be the start of a serious underlying problem
(s). This is especially true of bikes that look "like they just
rolled off the showroom floor". While the owner may have been quite
good at keeping it washed waxed and shined, what's underneath that
gleam may be in serious need of attention.

I've bought 2 Cades myself. The first one (when I was as dumb as a
stick about Cades) started and ran and didn't make any weird noises
so I thought how bad could it be? Well, after completely going
through it, it wasn't terrible but had some problems. The secondary
drive had a loose preload nut, the front forks were bent, the rear
shocks were (are still) shot, the swingarm bearings were rusty and
pitted, the clutch switch had been bypassed with a toggle switch,
there were a thousand bent fins in the radiator, the plastic was
cracked in many hidden places, speakers were shot, etc. The paint
was also shot and the inner fairings were cracked but those are
things I knew about before I laid out the $.

The second one I bought from some pictures through e-mail
discussions with the seller. The bike looked awesome in the pictures
and the description of what was wrong with the bike was that it had
carburetor problems. It only had 40K miles (my first one had 107K on
the ticker when I got it) so if it looked that good and the only
problem it had was carburetors how bad could it be? Well, it was
pretty bad.

When I got the bike the paint looked very good but, the clutch cover
was completely ruined from battery acid, I had to sandblast and
repaint the removable part of the frame and the front motor mounts
(battery acid), the motor had low oil pressure and I ended up taking
the motor out to find that it was missing an orifice (probably from
the factory), the crabs had been worked on by a friend of the seller
but were still filthy and way out of adjustment, one sparkplug was
loose in the hole, the rear axle pinch bolt was loose, the front
forks were leaking, the rear wheel inner bearing race/spacer was
worn beyond repair, all of the bearings in the secondary drive were
scored and had to be replaced, the chromed centerstand was a pile of
rust, the back wheel had a 1/8" layer of road crud on it that had to
be sanded off, the lower coolant tank was toast, the saddlebag trim
and rear lights shown in the pictures were gone, all of the chrome
had a layer of surface rust on it, and a lot more that I'm

By the way, if the seller is reading this I don't blame you. This is
the way the bike was when you got it so don't despair, I won't be
one of the primary pushers in Branson when the group decides to send
your Kaw off into the deepest ravine they can find. I will certainly
help, but won't put too much effort into it.

The point I'm trying to make is that no matter what the seller tells
you, you aren't going to know everything that's wrong with the
machine. No matter how impeccable the service records are, no matter
how it looks, there is probably something wrong with it. These bikes
are 18 years old now and regardless of how few miles they will all
have something wrong with them. Last summer I saw a bike with only
17K miles on it and it had more cracked plastic and didn't run as
well as my now 117K mile beast.

Yes, there are known problems with the Cade most of which are easily
correctable (not in order of importance).

1) Radio switches
2) Clutch and/or front brake switches
3) first 2 air compressor connections
4) secondary drive plug problem

Just about every Cade has worn out rear shocks (unless they've been
replaced with Progressives or others), some have autolevel problems,
some have cruise control problems, some have intermittent display
problems etc. etc. And then you have the bike issues. Front forks,
brakes, swingarm bearings, wheel bearings, steering head bearings,
stator, regulator, switches, cables, electrical connections, starter
and its solenoid, fuel pump, clutch, water pump, driveshaft, and so

The fact is no matter how good a bike appears to look and how well
it starts and runs, there are gremlins lurking under that pretty
exterior that are just waiting to jump out and bite your head off.
Should you stay away from Cades? Nope. But, you must understand that
before you buy and you have to keep a few things in mind.

1) The bike is 18 years old (about)
2) Parts are generally available but some stuff is obsolete (most an
be found used)
3) If the bike hasn't been ridden in a few years expect it to have
MORE problems than one that's been ridden regularly
4) Regardless of mileage, the bike is 18 years old (about)
5) The seller wants to sell it and will only tell you as much as he
thinks is necessary to get you to buy it
6) Crawl under it and look really well. Even a good cleaning by the
seller will leave some tell-tale signs
7) Ask about gas mileage and the last time the clutch/brake fluids
were changed, the gear oils (if they ask what gear oil, don't walk,
run away) etc.
8) What type of oil and what brand of filter
9) When was the stator last changed (they fail, it's just a matter
of miles)
10) Who does the service
11) Do they or the service person have a service manual
12) Why are they selling it
13) The bike is 18 years old (about)

This list certainly isn't all-inclusive but it's a start. And, if
you don't do your own wrenching, expect that just to do some
ordinary maintenance work and fix "what's wrong with it" could
easily be a $1000 at today's shop rates. Believe me, I've had about
a dozen bikes through here in the last year and a basic repair bill
is at least $500 and my rate is about 1/2 of what most shops charge.
If it has some unordinary issues or lots of little things, the bill
could easily be $1500 or more. Happy shopping! ~Tracy

EDITOR'S NOTE: I'm running way behind on getting this issue done
(Branson and all). Some of these ads may be out of date. So, check
with the owner. Sorry if some of this is dated.

I hated to part with my cavalcade that I bought at an insurance
auction in 1989, rebuilt it and rode it for over 10 years.  Your
site was invaluable to me and helped me with lots of little things
that came up. In the spring of 2002, I sold it to a local person who
has since sold it to a person in Chicago and I have lost track of
it. ( I bought a 1998 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic, and it is
almost as good a bike as the Cavalcade, key word almost.) I
discovered that I had a couple of items left over, one set of maroon
lowers, the original mufflers, and a used windshield for it and a
winDshield vent with directions, also a CB Radio installation
manual. If  any of your users could use these items, have them send
an e-mail, I believe I got the lowers from a owner in Arkansas. I
did not keep all your news letters as I had put them in a 3 ring
binder and they went with the bike and owners manual, I told buyers
they were as important as the owners manual.  I may come down to
your Branson rally if I ever retire.  Best Regards, and if they made
the Cavalcade today and it was still exactly the same as my 1988, I
would trade the HD for it in a minute, because after I put the JC
Whitney mufflers on it and the 'bell' extensions, it sounded exactly
like this 98 fuel injected Ultra classic. Best touring bike they
ever built, shame they stopped making it. ~Clif Rogers, Kirksvile,
Missouri, Email:
Cade & Trailer
I have a 1986 LX Cavalcade with fiberglass trailer for sale. It is
painted a custom pearl teal with hand pin striping, rotor covers
caliper covers, rear bag lights, trunk lights, small luggage rack
and driver back rest. It has 103K miles on it and still runs good. I
have 1987 flag mirrors and lower engine vent panels, the back tire
was put on in 2002, but has very little miles on it and the front
tire is still in good condition. It is in need of "Tracey" front
diff. plug and does have a few scratches on it! (It has been
I am asking $3800 OBO for both. If anyone has any questions e-mail
me @ or you may call me on my cell phone # 937-416-
1988 lx silver hand pin striping by frank at Marcus recent rubber
front and rear Dunlop too much to list chrome caliper covers fresh
brakes super brace braided brake lines progressive shocks Mathieu
exhaust plus stock if you choose floor boards Markland riders
backrest and trailer hitch all wired ready to pull matching helmets
with intercom setup NOT A DING NICK OR BLEMISH owner maintained
about 80,000 well driven mile spics available to serious buyers.
Kenny has seen the bike he can tell you its a beauty lots more on it
besides what I mentioned have spare motor and lots of other goodies.
~Mike Ruppel   new jersey revised price 2000.00 takes
it all.
   phone after email 
I have a 1988 LX for sale that I have owned for almost 15 years. I
am not sure what the difference is between the LX and LXE so I'll
just describe it. It is two tone brown with no scratches or dents -
never been down. Auto Level air compressor to adjust for a smooth
ride and electronic cruise control both work. Full upper and lower
fairing (with windshield) with driving lights added at the bottom.
There is a small compartment next to the tank on the left side upper
fairing for CB hookup and storage as well as a second compartment
for coins. The right side has a map drawer so that you can easily
navigate while you ride and it slides out to supply additional
storage area for smaller things. The front tire is new (this year)
and the rear tire has 9,000 miles on it. The bike just turned 36,000
miles this week. It has a driver's backrest on it and the
floorboards with heel / toe shifter. I have the original foot pegs
and shifter if you'd rather use that. Matching hard sided locking
travel trunks on the sides of the bike, and a matching rear locking
trunk with rack in the back. The passenger seat has buttons for air
bladder in the seat, adjustment to tilt floor boards for comfort,
and tuning and volume controls for the stereo hookup to the helmet.
The removable integrated AM/FM/Cassette stereo (radio buttons
replaced last year), and a CB and helmet intercom system all works.
Two matching helmets with the speaker / intercom system in them -
one helmet needs the microphone repaired to be usable. I have logged
information on all of the maintenance that I have done and I have
the service manual in paper form. It was just tuned last year
(plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, gas filter, cooling system
drained and flushed) and it runs great. The lighter doesn't work
because I disconnected it to hook up the driving lights. The only
missing parts are a stick-on red reflector on the rear bumper and a
red lens cover on the side travel trunk. The coin compartment has
discoloration where some brake fluid over flowed and didn't get
cleaned up quick enough. I'd like to get $2500 out of it. I can
supply pictures if you are interested. I work in San Jose, CA every
other week so you have to catch me at home to ride it (at home this
week). It is currently located in Guilford, IN which is about an
hour from Indy or 1/2 hour from Cincinnati, OH. E-mail me directly
at  or you can call me at 812-637-0056 if you
are interested.
I have decided to put my 1986 gold and tan Cade-LX up for sale. I
have had the bike for just over a year and really enjoy it, but I
would like to find another Moto-Guzzi Cal-II. I've been riding Moto-
Guzzi for 30 years. Sold them all when my wife could no longer ride
because of heart problems .I bought this Cade, but it's too heavy. I
live on a dirt road. [Cades don't like dirt roads] Since I have had
the bike, [I got it from the original owner.] I have replaced both
tires with Venoms, all new brake pads, replaced the battery, the
regulator-rectifier, fixed the ground plug problem, replaced the
lower rad. overflow tank, all new coolant, installed a dash-mount
voltmeter, replaced air cleaner, sparkplugs, oil change and filter,
flushed and changed brake and clutch fluids ,installed headlight
protector, changed secondary lube, [no leaks]. I have the Cade plug
and seal kit. It's not needed yet, but I'm sure it will be some day.
I have a headlight modulator kit, but not yet installed. This bike
is perfect. No scratches, no scrapes. Never dropped. It just turned
35,000 miles. Pictures are available on the Moto-Guzzi national
owner's club website, classifieds. {I'll trade for a clean Moto-
Guzzi California II}. I have well over $4500 in this bike, but to
help it find a good home, I'll take $4000 or best close offer. Call
Doug at 904-669-3116 [days] or 386-437-7253[nites and wknds] Located
in NE Florida, near St. Augustine.
Dwaine and I have one Blue on Blue Cade left for sale, It has 40,000
on it has all the updates in, plug, seals, etc. Paint is good,
chrome is good to fair, some rust areas. $2900.00. Can send pictures
and more info if interested. ~Jerry Wisc
F/S 86 LXE Beautiful bike 23,000 miles, loaded w/ options,
everything works as intended, full set of cavalcade soft luggage for
bags, repair manual, cavalcade cover. Bike has never been down and
is in excellent condition. $4000. Pictures available upon request.

Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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