SUZUKI CAVALCADE OWNERS GROUP NEWSLETTER


September, 2004

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RIDES AND EVENTS:
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2005: CADE RAID EAST & CADE RAID WEST
Plans are in the works for a Cavalcade rally on both coasts next
year. Larry and Nancy (Motherwind) Dilldine will be coordinating the
East Coast event. Jay & Bridget Johnson will to the same for the
Pacific Coast. Dates, locations and other details will be posted
here as they are finalized. If you have suggestions, requests or
other in-put you can email motherwind@aol.com  (East) or
jay@treefarmtapes.com (West).

If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event of
interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to jay@treefarmtapes.com and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.
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CADE RAID 2004 COFFEE CUPS AND TEE-SHIRTS
Order these souvenir items while they last. Proceeds go to the
Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Club. Tees are $15 (add $1 for XXL & $2 for
XXXL). Cups are $10. Add $5 shipping. Mail check or MO to: Cade Raid
2004, 23703 NE 4th Street, Sammamish, WA 98074.
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~ TRIPS AND TIPS ~
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GILLIAN'S ISLAND TOUR
Leaving Anderson SC, about moon Saturday for the first real ride on
the Cade, wife in shorts me in T-shirt, we decided to see what it
would do in the mountains. What a great riding machine, what a
beautiful day, what started out as a great bike ride. We got about
up in the Natahala National Forest when things started to get crazy.
The folks up there said they hadn't seen a storm like that in 10
years. Never have rode in the rain, let along in the mountains, with
hail falling, dirt, rocks tree limbs and I couldn't see what else
was in the road. I would have sold that bike for a bus ticket back
to Anderson. But, we made it home safe and sound. The new tires on
the bike (Dunlop Elite 11) worked just great. The bike acted like an
old horse caught in a storm, just stuck its nose in the wind and
headed us to the barn.  The learning curve was a real short one. A
word of caution from a new rider, always take rain gear with you.
Always know your limits and have faith in the Cade. It's a real
jewel. Moral of story is this; I've wanted to ride in the rain to
see what it would do. We never expected a storm like the one we rode
into. So, always expect the unexpected.
~Russ & Yvonne Anderson SC 86 LX Safe and Dry at home

TRAILER TONGUE/WIDTH RATIO
I am having a small trailer built by a friend. I'd like some
information on approx. spacing from tongue attachment to center of
wheels. The trailer will not carry a lot of weight but I do want it
to tow right. Are there any suggestions as to size of tires? ~Barry,
N of Toronto

Tongue length (to center of axle), should be twice the track width
(tire centers). Don't make it too narrow and don't make it too tall.
Larger tires are generally more stable. ~Tracy

Barry, I just bought a great little trailer from Harbor Freight,
there small one, it is 4ft by 4ft square, and I bought the 12inch
highway tires for it, put it together, put a sheet of plywood on it,
and a car cargo topper on it, painted it to match, looks great,
works great, the trailer was 70 bucks, and the topper was about 75
bucks, later ~Jason, Topeka KS, `87 LX

Barry, My cargo trailer was commercially built back in the
early '80s. I have pulled it with three different bikes and it
tracks like a dream. It was designed for motorcycles. But, in spite
of being an excellent product, the company did not survive. There
are a few still around here in the northwest, but they are even more
rare than the Cavalcade. I had it at Branson in 2002, so there may
be a photo of it somewhere in the group. It is 58 inches from the
ball on my hitch to the axle. The wheels are from an ATV. The wheel
itself has a 9 inch diameter rim to rim. The surface of the tire's
tread is 6 inches across. ~ I like the low ride of the small wheels,
but it does require a 5 inch drop in the tongue. Small wheels, even
with long-haul trips, are not a problem as long as the bearings are
properly and regularly greased. Good luck with the project. ~Jay


NOISE IN FRONT WHEEL
My wife & I rode about 175 hwy miles today. On the way back after
being off the highway several miles, a noise began in the front
wheel. It's a rotational noise like a bearing, not real loud or
screeching, but definitely not right. ~ Wheel feels tight, no "slop"
by hand. Hubs were cool to the touch directly in the bearing area,
both sides. Checked that immediately - did it at gas station before
we were home, so it hadn't had time to cool.

After sitting several hours, I took it out solo to listen to noise.
No noise first 2 miles, then it began again. I came on home. It was
less than a mile. Hubs are again cool.  SO - is there anything in
the front end OTHER than a bearing that'll make such a noise? Manual
briefly mentions greasing the speedo "gearbox" - could this be
the culprit?

I have the CD, page 9-17 says "apply grease before installing the
bearings" - yet no seal is mentioned or illustrated. How can a non-
sealed bearing NOT have a seal, yet if it's a sealed bearing, how
would you lube it? ~ Lastly, anyone know the bearing industry # of
the bearing? Not Suzuki's # (08123-63027), but a standard # I can
get from a wholesaler? Unless unavoidable, I'm not taking it apart
w/o new bearings on hand just in case. ~Ed

Recently I bought a higher wattage headlight lamp (it isn't really a
bulb) in an effort to see the road better at night.  The book says
to remove the fairing halves in order to replace the lamp.  Tracy
said he was told that it can be done up from the bottom without
taking anything off except the horns bracket.  I tried this and
found a bunch of connectors in the way, plus some unnatural wrist
bending and back strain to access the lamp through a big hole in the
u-shaped shield around the inside of the fairing.  So I abandoned
this effort until such time as I had to take the fairing apart for
some other reason.  This wasn't long in coming - the speedo cable
became detached from the instrument pod.  I correctly figured that I
could do this by removing only one fairing half.  I chose the left
for several reasons, one of which being that the speedo hookup is on
that side.  Follows is what transpired.  Disclaimer:  I'm a mediocre
bike mechanic.  I did however; manage to repair my machine alone
after a crash caused significant damage last year.
       I first removed both side covers (all the tabs are still on
them and I want to keep it that way).  I then removed the seat, the
plastic cover that fits over the handlebar clamps, the 'frame upper
cover', the left fairing pocket, and the left mirror.  The trim
piece at the bottom of the windshield also has to come off, as well
as a bottom screw of the bezel.  Most of the screws holding
the 'cowl panel' (except the ones behind the speaker grill) must be
removed.  My machine has fairing lowers (with the vents) but those
without lowers can probably remove the 'bottom fairing' fairly
easily.  I was able to remove the top attachment screw for the lower
which allowed access (with some prying) to two screws that must be
removed.  There is another screw in the radiator exhaust grill that
attaches to the main fairing so it must also go.  Then several
screws more and the main fairing half can be wiggled out.  Then
remove two screws that hold the black monitor box and cornering
light relays and let them dangle.  Three more screws get the cruise
control and leveling modules out of the way.  Now you can see the
target!
    After all that, you still have to operate through the hole in
the shield but you can see what you're doing (no small advantage)
and it is easier to reach without the fairing piece in the way. 
This method also allowed me to use a screwdriver to loosen the
reluctant lamp socket.  I was sorta casual about some wire routing
when I rebuilt the machine, which is why I had connectors in the
way.  I used a pop-tie to move them out of the way.  After you get
the socket pulled off, remove the rubber boot, unclamp the wire bail
that holds the lamp in place, and then remove the lamp.  Put the new
lamp in (only goes in one way), reattach the bail.  The boot has a
tab that goes toward the bottom which orientates the holes in it
with the lamp connectors.  Make sure the boot is pushed tight all
the way around to keep water out then reattach the socket.  Then put
all the plastic, etc. back on.
    Can it be done without taking all the stuff off?  Yeah, I'm sure
it can - especially after seeing it the first time.  If I have to
replace the lamp again I'm gonna try to do it that way.  Ya still
hafta take the horns down though, but that's a snap.    Gary - I
haven't had it out of the garage yet (rain) so I still don't have an
answer for you. ~Terry in Federal Way - '87 LXE

CADE ARM RESTS
I was thinking of getting some too. What type of bracket has to be
fabricated for these?  ~Rob `86 LX    Ohio

The bracket you need is dependant on how you want the arms to sit.
Some time back there was a thread on this and one of the members
claimed he mounted them directly with no bracket.  I could not see
how this was possible and still fit my spouse's needs.  Check back
to the thread around end March.  Message 44708, etc. 45371, etc. 
Maybe you can use his method.

The armrests are positioned by U-bolt around the grab arms. In my
set, I had to re-align the U-bolt by drilling another hole so that
the U-bolt is square around the existing grab arm. The bottom of the
arm rest assembly is now floating in space and needs the bracket to
tie it to the bike.  I made a bracket to link to the mounting bolts
of the side bag carrier. (Service Manual, Page 9-50, third picture
down, middle arrow shows the mounting point nicely.)  I also made
spacers for that mounting bolt, as the existing bolt is buried
inside the short length of pipe.  Of course, you need to replace the
stock mounting bolts by longer ones.  (I think I used 2 1/2" SS,
1/4")

There is about a 1/2" to 3/4" offset between the armrest bracket, as
supplied and mounted, and the mounting point.  The bracket you make
needs to supply this offset or, in my case, I placed a 1/2" rubber
block under the U-bolt to space the arms in by that amount and this
allowed me to make just a flat bracket out of steel.

Others have made a bracket with a 1/2" step in it. It's your choice.
I also put a short length of black PVC around the grab arms under
the U-bolt to protect the chrome of the grab arms. It is much harder
to describe than to do, once you have the bits in your hand. If you
can figure out how to use just the seat bolts and no bracket, you'll
be way ahead.

Peter, Now mine may sound a little different, but I hope the way
mine are will help everyone.  When I got the Cade, the arm rests
were already on them.  They are being held on by a u-joint on to the
passenger grab bars, and by the top bolt that holds the saddlebag
crash bar on.  The bolt I am talking about is the one just past the
top compartment going from the front to the back.  From what I can
tell, the bracket is not special made, but what came with the arm
rests.  The arm rest them selves fold out and down, to make them
horizontal (sorry about the spelling). ~Sean from Michigan

HI-OCTANE
What grade gas do you use in your Cade? I use Amoco (BP) ultimate
but at $2.11 a gallon I am thinking of something cheaper. ~Russ `86
LX

Co-incidentally, a similar discussion thread on the KLR650 group
site resulted in this post concerning Octane use for KLR650 bikes:

"As a former Refinery Operator who made more than a few gallons of
the stuff and a current "egghead" on combustion process, I guess
I'll chime in here. Octane is inversely proportional to BTU content.
High octane burns cooler and is not as volatile and can (and must)
therefore be used in high performance engines. High
volume/compression engines use high octane fuel and the power is a
result of the added mass.

This can all be proven by looking at exhaust gasses. A hotter flame
(low octane fueled) produces more oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and less
carbon monoxide (CO) whereas the inverse is true for the same engine
burning high octane fuel. Remember this if your old clunker has
trouble passing a smog test.

Other than the valid point of premium gas sitting in the underground
tank longer and having a higher chance of getting contaminated, I
can't see any risk or noticeable loss in using it in a KLR. In fact,
I like to use it when it's really hot since it does burn cooler and
I haven't done my needle and jet change out yet. ~Paul, Rio Linda CA
A16

Yeah. That's what I've preached too. If you get more performance
with high-test in a Cade, it's only because you're wanting it a
little too much. I have an article where they tested some of the
really good race gas against pump stuff in a stock TL1000 and it
made more power on the cheap stuff. ~Tracy

In response to the gas question -- have always run 87 octane regular
unleaded since new. No problems at all -- do use a couple of ounces
of Marvel Mystery oil every 3 or 4 tank's full. Mileage is very
consistent at 35-37 MPG. ~Al

BIG BIKES IN EUROPE?
I was in the Dominican Republic a month or so ago. I noticed no big
bikes, just 250cc etc. They used them to taxi people around. Kind of
a neat idea! I had heard the same, applied to Europe. Is that true?
~Scott

No, there are to many Americans here for there not to be a lot of
big bikes (Harleys) and the Germans love their speed i.e. the
Autobahn so you'll see all of the American favorites here. ~Virgil

CAVALCADE LEAD IRON BUTT RIDE
I just completed my first Iron Butt ride over the weekend on my
86LXE. We did just over 1,100 miles in 22 hrs. and 20 minutes. The
Cade held her own against all those other bikes, all a lot newer,
and was the envy of many riders for her looks, and road worthiness.
Had no problems till the very end when she lost an oil seal or
something or the type, started leaking oil from the engine and
dripping out the front end, kept an eye on the oil level and oil
light, and rode her home to complete and certify the ride. Was
thinking about selling the blue on blue before this little jaunt,
but now, I'll just fix her up and keep on riding. ~Ed in Tennessee.

SPIKE `PINS' HIMSELF
I was changing my water pump, did something so dumb I began doubting
my own sanity.  I took off the water pump on the LXE, old water pump
in the bench vise, removed the outer E-ring, removed the bell gear,
removed the inner E-ring; put the inner E-ring on the new pump, bell
gear, outer E-ring, hurray.

Of course the bell gear would spin freely on the impeller shaft. 
(huh?)  The whole time I was pondering and puzzling over the
transverse hole in the impeller shaft, puzzling and pondering like
the Grinch that time he knocked over Whoville, and the Whos partied
on anyway.  Eventually my clearly impaired brain (no drugs, no
alcohol, I swear!) realized there must have been a pin in that
transverse hole in the impeller shaft that went into the slot in the
bell gear.  Duh! 

So I tossed my garage looking for the pin, no pin anywhere,  so
eventually I decided I would need to make another one, so I found a
screw about 5 mm diameter and about 12 mm grip length, cut off the
head and threads, cleaned it off with the grinder, but then I had
one last idea.  Sure enough the pin had fallen into the cuff of my
pants. Someone please stop me before I repair again! ~Spike
(Editor's Note: You can tell that Spike, Terry & Sean are "old
school." Notice the double spacing between sentences!)
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~ TRACY'S BENCH ~
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CHARGING AHEAD
Since we seem to be seeing a lot of charging system questions, I
thought I would send out a little primer on the system.

The charging system on the Cade is like that installed on a huge
majority of bikes. It's very simple having just 3 components and
only 2 of those are subject to failure; the stator and the
regulator/rectifier (or RR). The third component is the rotor but
unless the field magnets magically lost their magnetism or somehow
exited the assembly (virtually impossible on both counts) then the
rotor isn't subject to failure or replacement.

The stator is located in the LEFT side engine cover (left when
sitting on the bike facing forward). The failure of a stator is
typically through shorting of the windings to each other or to the
stator stack (the stack of thin plates that are riveted together to
provide the poles on which the windings are wound). In case, some or
much of the power generated by the movement of the magnets past the
poles will be drained off by the short.

According to Spikes statistics, a stator should last about 40K
miles. However, that is a mean value. Actual life is due to a number
of factors but some stators last much longer and a few don't last
quite that long. The reason the windings short out is due to heat.
The insulation on the stator windings is basically like a thick
coating of paint not like the plastic insulation found on ordinary
wire. Because they have to pack as much wire into such a small space
to realize a suitable power output, this enamel insulation has to be
thin and is only going to last so long. The cooler you keep it the
longer is should last. However, since the cooling is by the engine
oil and since we really can't modify how much oil spray gets onto
the windings; we have to accept that the windings will fail
eventually. That's just one of the drawbacks of a permanent mag,
shunted system. I'll explain the shunted part in a minute.

Of the numerous stators that I've looked at, the typical failure is
in the upper quadrant. It appears that's where there's the least
amount of oil spray to the windings and that area runs hotter and
the insulation cooks faster. Since this is a shunted type system,
the windings are under constant stress.

In a permanent mag system the field is created by permanent magnets
mounted inside the rotor which is spinning at crankshaft speed. As
each magnet's north and south poles pass over each stator pole
electrical power is generated in the form of AC (electrical power
being defined loosely by the movement of electrons in the windings).
The windings on the stator are connected in such a way that 3
separate phases of AC are generated. The no load output of the
stator with the motor spinning at 5K RPM is around 100 volts even
though some high output stators are would differently and can put
out 200 no-load volts. Obviously, this is way more voltage than what
we need and we need to convert it to DC so that we can use it to
power the bike and acc and to keep the starting battery charged.
That's where the RR comes in. The RR is mounted behind the
tachometer (in front of it) and is attached to the fairing frame. Is
serves the function of both rectifying the AC from the stator into
usable DC and it also shunts the excess power to ground to keep the
voltage within a range that will power the bike and acc and also
keep the battery fully charged. Under normal circumstances, the RR
will keep about 14-14.5 volts on the system. Even if the battery is
fully charged, it should maintain that voltage. However, when idling
or when the demand is greater that the output of the stator, that
voltage can fall and under other conditions it can also go up.

If you don't have any extra lights on and you can't read 14 volts at
the battery with the motor spinning at 3K or so, then either the
stator or the RR or both will probably need to be replaced. I say
probably because there is one important thing that needs to be
checked before committing either component to replacement.  There is
a connector in the battery compartment through which the RR Sendai's
its extra current to the ground side of the system. That connector
in some (possibly many) cases will become corroded, loose or
whatever and the RR can't shunt the extra power to ground properly
so the RR will see much more heat than what it was designed to and
is destined to fail if the connector is not repaired. Actually, the
connector isn't even needed since it is only there for the original
assembly of the bike. If you check it and it looks fine, good. Just
make sure it's clean and tight and it won't hurt to use some
dielectric grease on it to prevent future corrosion. Dielectric
grease is available at any auto parts store and is also listed as
bulb grease. It is generally silicone based and has a very high
viscosity and won't melt and run out of the connector like ordinary
dino grease or Vaseline. Silicones have extremely high melt
temperatures and those sold as electrical grease (dielectric) are
made especially for electric applications. A tube will cost $2-3 and
is enough to do about every connection on the bike. In fact, every
time you have to take a connection apart, it's a good idea to make
sure it's clean and grease it to prevent future problems.

The connector in question can be seen at
http://www.billydump.com/cav/instruct/statorregrec.htm

If the connector looks good, then you can proceed to checking the
stator output. BTW, I'm assuming that the battery in the bike is
good and doesn't have an internal short or something else wrong with
it. If you aren't sure, have it load checked. Most places that sell
batteries can also test them. If the connector is melted or has
other obvious signs of high resistance through it, it should be cut
out and the wires soldered together. If you repaired the connector
recheck the system voltage with the motor running at 3K or so and if
it still won't come up to 14 volts, then checking the stator is next.

Unfortunately, the only way to check the stator is with the stator
leads unplugged from the RR. Those connections (also shown at
http://www.billydump.com/cav/instruct/statorregrec.htm) are located
just to the left of the headlight (sitting on bike facing forward)
and will most likely require the removal of the right upper fairing
to access. If you have child-size hands, you might be able to reach
them through the right speaker hole. You have to unplug them so that
the no-load voltage output can be checked. The stator wires are
generally yellow but could be another color is the stator had been
replaced prior with a rewind. You would then just look for the
yellow wires coming from the RR and unplug the 3 large plastic
connectors. There are 3 small bullet type connectors that tie the
stator leads to the noise suppressor that hangs on the right side of
the headlight but those do not need to be unplugged to test the
stator.

With all 3 stator leads unplugged from the RR and with an AC
voltmeter set to read a least 100 VAC, test each pair of stator
leads while running the motor up to 5K RPM. By each pair I mean 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 1 and 3. Each pair should produce at least 90 VAC at
5K rpm. If you get something less than that on one or more pairs,
then the stator must be replaced. Fortunately, stators are easily
rewound with new wire since the stator stack is reusable over and
over. Several competent re-winders are listed at
http://www.suzukicavalcade.com/parts___vendors.htm .
Rewound stators run about $125-$140 and there are even new stators
available from Rick's for a little more money. New isn't better,
Rick's was running out of cores and since the Cade and the FI Gold
Wing share the same stator stack, Rick's had tooling made to produce
new stacks. If you get a rewind, you are normally required to send
in your old stator as a core.

If the stator checks out good (90 VAC + on each pair of 3 legs at 5K
RPM), then the only thing left is the RR.
New ones are available from several sources at the same address as
above and will run about $120-$140.
Just a note, the Electrex RR will not come with the factory style
plugs for the stator connections and you'll have to reuse your old
ones and connect them on the new reg. Also, it won't use the orange
wire. That wire was used to sense system voltage and the new regs do
that internally. The one from Rick's comes with the factory
connectors all around. It's been expressed that if you want an
Electrex, you will probably get better service out of Dennis Kirk
than buying it direct from Electrex.

If the stator checks bad then, obviously, you'll have to replace it
but the RR may also be bad. There is a check procedure in the
service manual using an ohm meter. If you don't have a manual, send
me an e-mail at adnet@mpks.net and I'll send you that page out of
the manual.

That's about it. Simple as pie. Please note, though, that the stator
may check "good" but may still be on its way south. If you have 40K
or more miles and you want to be sure that it won't die on you in
the worst possible place, then you will have to remove the left side
engine case and look at it. Even though there's no steadfast way to
tell whether it's gonna fail in the next few miles, if it looks like
a crispy critter then a replacement is probably not a bad idea.
~Tracy

BRAKE SQUEAL
Tracy, The brakes, both front and back, squeal like a log truck!
I've taken both off and scuffed up the pads and sanded some on the
rotors. They did great till they got hot and went back to square
one. Any suggestion? ~Tim

Squeal is related to pads as much as anything. Hard pads will
squeal. I dunno how close you are to needing new ones, but I've had
great luck with the SBS ceramics and the EBC HH pads. They are
sticky and quiet. You can try some shims behind the pads (I think
EBC and SBS both have some trim to fit stuff) or some disc brake
quiet (auto parts stores) however, if the pads are hard or if they
squeal after heating you may want to try a softer pad like the ones
noted above. Those pads won't last as long but you sure will have
good brakes and they're easy on rotors and don't make a sound.


BYPASSING THE CLUTCH SWITCH
This is just an option. When my clutch switch went out I put a
toggle switch in the system which allowed the cruse to still work
when off and as still able to crank the bike when on. If you need
info how to do this just let me know. It is better than not riding!
~J.K.

This is nothing new. Many bikes have been modified as such and you
should know that it has defeated several important safety features
provided by the clutch switch. Next time you're cruising along at
speed with the cruise control engaged, pull in the clutch and see
what happens. ~ What you do to your own bike or choose to accept
that was done by someone else is certainly your right to do.
However, the switch was put there for a reason by big "S" and many
would agree with its important purpose and proper operation. The
switch that Suzuki provided, generally, is a POS and generally
requires at least some on going maintenance to keep operating
properly. However, that's not a reason to eliminate it completely.
I'm sorry if I sound like an ass but recommending that you eliminate
a safety device when there are 1000% better replacements available
is not something that should be done. Again, whatever your bike has
is up to you. If you want to reinstate the safety features of the
switch, I'm easy to a hold of. ~Tracy

REAR SHOCKS
I took my right saddlebag off and I found oil around the right shock
boot and right swing arm.  I cannot tell where the oil is coming
from.  Does anyone have any experience on where oil in this area
usually comes from? ~Darryl

Oil is more than likely coming from a blown shock seal (there is
oil in the shocks). Time for some NEW ones, past post have
progressive, after market parts numbers or Contact Tracy, he can get
them. ~    Old Coot `n Maryland

Speaking of shocks, awhile back I got a set of non-air shocks for
Mikey S. for his sidecar equipped Cade. The reason he wanted to go
non-air is because he felt it would handle the sidecar better if he
had manual control of the spring preload since in some circumstances
it handled rather interestingly. But, when he put the new shocks on
he found that they were too short to work with the sidecar because
Progressive specs a 13" shock for the Cade and the stock shocks were
14.25". I think the reason they do that is because of the lowering
of the auto level and the fact that the spring rates on the no-air
shocks are a lot higher. ~ So, I have ordered him a set of 14.25"
shocks and heavier springs to get his ride height back up to par
with his sidecar. ~Tracy

CLUTCH SLAVE CYL LEAKS
I just changed the hydraulic fluid in all brakes and clutch lines a
week ago, fluid looked real dark. I used DOT 4 as recommended.
Today, after an 80 mile ride, I notice the clutch starting to
release by itself while stopped at a light. Stalled the engine. Got
in neutral and started again. Hydraulic fluid was pissing on ground
under secondary drive. I got home OK, now to fix the problem. Is
there a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder available, or must I find
a new one? The dealer doesn't think they still are available, but he
said he will check on it.  How 'bout it guys? I'm sure someone out
there has had this problem before. What's the solution? Rebuild,
new, and who has the parts? Tracy? Thanks in advance for the help.
~Doug `86 LX, Bunnell, Fl.

The seal and the complete cylinder are available. Seal is about $5.
Cylinder is about $30-40. Secondary drive has to come off to get it
off. It should have been done when the plug was done. Musta been a
slack mechanic that did it. ~Tracy

REPLACING THE FORK SEALS
How hard is it to replace the fork seals? Am I better off taking it
to a bike shop? Again, thanks to everyone who helped. ~Dennis
Nottingham Borrego Springs, CA 1986 Gold LX

While I may not be an expert, I have rebuilt about 11 sets of Cade
forks in the past year so I'll share some of what I've learned. Most
of the time forks leak simply because the seals are worn out.
However, most of the forks I've had through here also had some
lengthwise grooves on the inner tubes that, if not removed (or at
least minimized) would have led to leaking seals again in short
order. I also had one set that the inners were so pitted (rust) that
they weren't salvageable and I had to use another set of inners.
Also, I had a set that the lower bushings were so worn that the dry
lubricant was completely worn off exposing the copper. In that case,
the copper bushing wore the outer tubes out in the bottom 3 inches
of travel. I had to scrap those outers and use another set.

The only special tool needed is something to hold the damping rod
from turning while you take out the lower bolt. I made a tool that
is a 1' length of 1" square tubing with a nut welded on the end. I
don't remember the size right off but I used a metric nut. If you
need the size I can go measure it. I clamp the square tube in the
vice and use a 1/2" impact with a 10MM hex key to spin out the bolt.
I also use an impact to take off the top cap which can be pretty
tight sometimes.

Other than that, once you get the dust seal off and pop out the
retaining ring, you just use the inner tube as a slide hammer to get
the upper bushing and seal out. I always chuck the inner tubes up in
the lathe and spin them up to 1000 RPM and polish the inners with
some 320 (or worn 220) wet-r-dry lubed with spray lube (like WD-40 -
the only real use I've found for it other than lubing the cutting
tool when working with aluminum) to smooth any lengthwise grooving.
I can't always get it all out but most are close. You can do the
same with a length of string wrapped a couple times around the wet-r-
dry. Just pull the spring back and forth and it will rotate the
paper. Just don't sand lengthwise or you'll just make them worse.

You need to look at the coating on the bushings. There is a gray,
dry lubricant that's applied to the bushings and it still may be
intact. If it's starting to show wear though, replace it. I always
fit the bushings to tighten the forks up a little. I use brass shim
stock under the lower bushing and file the gap on the upper and
lightly peen the back all over with a sharp center punch. You can
get all new bushings but you should still check the fit before you
button them up.

Use Loctite on the lower bolt and make sure you get the valve ring
in facing the right direction (2 sets had them in upside down) the
open part faces down (see the manual). Don't cinch the cap on too
tight as the upper triple clamp will keep it in there. I always use
Amsoil Dexron ATF, 14 ounces per fork. If you are putting in
Progressive or other aftermarket springs, you may have to adjust the
amount. Always grease the seal well before you put it on the inner
and dab a little sealer on the OD before you drive it in.

When putting the forks back on, make sure they are the exact same
height in the triple clamps. Tighten the lower triple clamp bolts
first then the upper. Tighten the axle nut before the axle clamp.
Make sure there's a flat washer between the left fork and the speedo
drive (unless you have rotor covers). Clean and lube the speedo
drive while it's off. Make sure the tangs of the speedo drive are in
the slots in the wheel (I've seen several where they weren't and the
tangs were bent). Tighten the axle clamp bolts BEFORE you tighten
the fork brace bolts. If the condition and/or lubrication of the
headstock bearings are unknown, that should be done at the same
time. ~Tracy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CADES FOR SALE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Still selling my brown '86 Cade... runs well, everything works,
plastic is showing age but not a real mess.  I'm in financial duress
and really would like someone have it that can take care of it. ~Don
Box
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hebron, Indiana
Pictures can be seen at http://www.tomsauto.net/ 86 LXE FOR SALE
Selling my 86 LXE. 47,000 miles, CB, Back Rest, 4 Helmets, 2 with
intercoms, Cover, all books and manuals. 2 tone blue.
tom@tomsauto.net
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CENTRAL INDIANA
87 LXE wine and silver in color everything works. Just a tad over
11k. It will need back rubber, has drivers backrest. Pictures on
request $3500.00 mjbf1662@yahoo.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Madison, Wisconsin
86 LXE with 40,990 miles, Blue-on-Blue. Just serviced with new Tracy
plug, fork oil Synthetic lubes, new Dot-4 brake fluid, Synthetic
blend oil and filter, Carb rebuilt with new seals. Runs great, looks
are average or a touch above. A respectable stock LXE Daily Driver!
$3000 dwainetu@yahoo.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
86 LXE Blue/Blue for sale. Same tune as the others. Bad back, not
riding enough. Loved it, it rides so sweet. Radio works, one
station, not sure of CB, get indicators in sight window. No leaks,
46k, cornering lights
inoperative. Haven't been able to figure that out. She is in great
shape. ~Gilhoole gilhoole@yahoo.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
St Joseph, Missouri
I've got an 86 Cade for sale  had carbs rebuilt and front
calipers ,has 67,000 showing bought at last Xmas has lots of extra
lights front @rear, has CB,  rebuilt radio new tires asking 2200$
email jeepdriver3@hotmail.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My 86 GTG is still up for sale, but I've made a change in the offer,
sort of: I'm asking $2,000 obo, but I'll also settle for a trade for
a Scooter in the 150-250cc range if you have one you want off your
chest, I figure it will work out best for a college campus. $2,000
OBO. Have pics on request. hdha1983@ziplip.com

 

 

 

 

 

Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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