SUZUKI CAVALCADE OWNERS GROUP NEWSLETTER

October, 2004

 

Jay Johnson, Editor

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RIDES AND EVENTS:
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2005: CADE RAID EAST "TAIL OF THE DRAGON"
We are planning a tour for those of us in the East to start the weekend of Sept 9, 10th, 11th, 12th, at Deals Gap, Then a ride progressing north  along the Blue Ridge, with side trips, ending 2nd weekend Sept 16, 17, 18,  19th near Front Royal Virginia. What's nice for those who can't get time off, you can come any weekend or
during the week. Every day we'll have 4-5 hr rides to include food, shopping for the ladies or some local attractions. For more information contact, Larry Dilldine: Grubfodder@aol.com 
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2005: CADE RAID WEST "YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK"
September 12-16 are the dates for our West Coast Cade Raid in 2005.  We will tour Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park visit Cody and Jackson Hole, Wyoming.  We will also feature evening classes and hands-on workshops on Cavalcade maintenance and repair and we'll host a Cavalcade Store where you can buy and sell Cavalcade parts and items.

Our lodging will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort at Island Park, Idaho.  We have reserved the entire resort for our Cade Raid. To reserve your guest room, their telephone number is 208-558-9366,
email address is information@sawtellemountainresort.com  and web site
is www.sawtellemountainresort.com 

In addition to the guest rooms, Sawtelle Resort has RV sites, tent sites and a bunkhouse.  The bunkhouse will be available for solo men at a cost of $210 per person for the six nights we will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort. The $210 rate equals $35 per night.  If you wish to take advantage of the bunkhouse lodging, you will need to
register and make payment in advance to me. jay@treefarmtapes.com  A $50 deposit will hold your reservation until August 15, 2005.  Payment in full will be due on that date. Please email me if you'd like to book into the bunkhouse.
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If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group, send the information to jay@treefarmtapes.com  and it will be posted in the next issue of this newsletter.
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CADE RAID 2004 COFFEE CUPS AND TEE-SHIRTS
Order these souvenir items while they last. Proceeds go to the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Club. Tees are $15 (add $1 for XXL & $2 for XXXL). Cups are $10.  Add $5 shipping.  Mail check or MO to:  Cade Raid
2004, 23703 NE 4th Street, Sammamish, WA 98074.
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CAVALCADE FLAGS AND FLAG STAFFS
Just to let those that expressed an interest in the flags -- I have some and I've made some more flag staffs for those that want one.  If still interested please contact me at: Apomerleau@comcast.net  
Thanks, ~Al
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~ TRIPS AND TIPS ~
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ADDITIONAL DRIVING LIGHTS
Is there a good set of after-market lights to install on the Cade that will be used as long range driving lights?  The current set is more of a fog lamp beam pattern.  I prefer a more of a pencil beam pattern. 

~Keith ' 86

There are many sets out there to choose from.....pick a set.  Make the mounting bracket (ask around...Walter).  Try to remember to wire it up through a relay so it's not on all the time (headlight relays work fine).  ~KennG

Keith, I bought a set of Eurolite TF1200 on EBay last fall.  They have driving, fog and turn signal lamps in them. The driving lights shine onto each shoulder of the road, really help to pick up Deer eyes!  I wired the turn signal lights to be running lights with the flick of a switch. Brackets attached to my LXE engine guard using
one of the screws that hold the cornering lamp cover on.  The wiring harness was preassembled; only thing I didn't use was the three way switch that came with kit. Think I paid like $30 plus shipping. ~Dave

HEAD LAMP REPLACEMENT
While on a ride last night my low beam went out.  I have read the service manual on changing it out, and it seems quite a job removing all the fairing and such. I have couple of questions.  First, is there a quicker/shortcut way of changing out the bulb?  Second, other then picking the bulb up at a Suzuki dealer, Can NAPA or any other
parts dealer provide the bulb?  And if so does anybody have the part number... thanks for the help.  

~Joe in AK

Joe, just buy a H4 lamp anyplace that sells automotive bulbs.  You don't need to remove any fairings. Just take your horns out of the way.  You can reach up there with one hand. Unplug the connector, pull off the boot, unlatch the lamp clip and take out the lamp.  Installation is reverse, a little trickier but it can be done.  Don't touch the new lamp glass with your bare hands and it will last longer. 

Dave

LED LIGHTS
I know this question has been asked before but I don't recall if anybody ever tried them and can't find anything in the archive.  Has anybody tried the LED 1157 replacement bulbs for the tail/brake lights?  Would there be a problem with the display signal, giving false light out signal?  Thanks. 

~Kirby, 86 LX

TRAILERING THE CADE
Need some info on how to tie down the Cade to a wood frame floor on metal cross beams trailer.  I am using D rings for the tie downs to the floor and a Pingel front wheel shock.  How/where do you attach the tie downs to the front of the bike since there is so much plastic? 

~Bob

LOWRIDER
My legs are rather short and riding the Cade was a little bit difficult sometimes.  I got several suggestions from members on how to adapt the bike for shorter people.  I followed up and made the changes and what a difference. I am 5'7" and have a 28" inseam.  Riding the beast now is as easy and comfortable as my Intruder.  I lowered the seat about 3" and the bike about 2" and it made all the difference.  Handling is the same as stock except the cross wind handling is much better.  I was on hwy 58 in the Mojave Desert about two weeks ago in cross winds so bad the semi's parked and it just about blew a tour bus over in front of me, I had no problem at all.  I have ridden in cross winds that strong before I lowered it and it is much improved. I have posted some pictures in the photo section.  If anyone wants further info I'll be glad to pass it along. 

~Ron boomer2480@sbcglobal.net 

MORE ON LOWERING THE CADE
You can see pictures in e-group photo section. The seat has 6" of
foam and I took it apart and shaved 3" off the top forming more of a
bucket. It lowered my seating height plus it feels better than
stock, you don't feel like your just sitting on top of the bike
anymore. You're more a part of it and it did not loose any of the
comfort. Rode 1250 miles in a day and a half two weeks ago and
there's no numb butt. It did not affect the air bladders as they are
between the seat pan and the foam. Remove the handlebar cover with
the clock control and the main cover over the air cleaner along with
the two piece cover with the air vents on it. This will give you
access to the upper triple tree. Loosen the upper triple tree bolts.
Put bike on center stand and place a small floor jack under the
front chassis. Reach up behind the horns and loosen the lower triple
tree bolts. Slowly lower the floor jack till the fork tubes extend 1
1/4" above upper triple tree. Be very careful to get the same
extension on both sides so the bike will track straight. Tighten all
four triple tree bolts. Do not go more than 1 1/4" as the fork tubes
will not clear the two-piece cowling if you do. The level sensor is
just behind the rear brake master cylinder on the right side under
the side cover. Turn the adjuster star counter clockwise as far as
it will go with a small screwdriver.

That is about it and it makes a big difference if you short like me.
Another tip I got was to hold the back of the bike up while running
the auto level till all the air is expelled and that will lower the
rear quite a bit. I leave mine set that way all the time and only
let  the leveler bring the back up if I'm going to use the center
stand. One more thing you have to heat up the kickstand and bend it
a little to accommodate the lower chassis. ~Ron

WINDSHIELD VENTS
The original round Craig Vetter Windjammer vents are for sale again,
$19.50 for 2 vents + $2 for shipping... Check here -

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Online_Store/US_Store/US_Replacement_Parts/US_Details.html

 ~Brian in CT

CADE VS. VENTURE
Since buying my Venture in May this is my opinion.

1. The Venture is much less top heavy than the Cade
2. The Cade has more low-end torque
3. The Venture comes standard with all the features as the Cade, CB,
cruise, int, etc, etc, except auto level and the air seats.
4. I have ridden 200 more miles in one day on the Venture than I
ever did on the Cade and didn't feel any different than on the Cade
on the shorter ride. (I did notice that on the black Ventures they
have different seats than the colored bikes and tend to be harder) 
5. The Venture feels more like you're riding a mc (motorcycle) rather than a two
wheeled 30'motor home. (Ok, maybe a 20')
6. The Cade has more trunk and saddle bag space plus all the cubby
holes.
7. The Venture has much more room for the passenger than the Cade
and the Cade back comes up higher in the back.
8. The Cade seat for the passenger may be offer more comfort but the
added space seems to off set it. My wife can sit back there all day
with out any complaints. (With more space for her you also have less
helmet banging)
9. The Cade sells for between 2500-5500 the Venture sells for 15-17K
10. Accessories and trim are readily available for the Venture.
11. The Venture comes with a 5 yr unlimited mileage warranty, the
Cade depending on who you buy it from probably will have none.

The Cade is a great bike, I had mine for almost 10 years but, so is
the Venture. You really have to look at the two and decide what
style bike you want. For me the selling points were; the old Harley
look, the warranty and handling, the selling points for the wife
were; more space for her, comfortable seats and the color.
~Roy in Texas

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~ TRACY'S BENCH ~
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CRUISE CONTROL
Tracy, I went through the switches and did notice an ohm value
change when they were applied. I still can't figure what the center
kick stand switch does. I disconnected it, cut the wires to it, left
them open and nothing happen, connected the wires and again nothing.
I had a great working cruise one day after cleaning the set switch
and nothing the next day when I tried to use it. I went through the
complete CD that I ordered and can not find any trouble shooting on
the cruise control. What to do next as with my bad hands, I really
need the cruise to go on any trips. ~Jim Leon

On a recent bike I had through here, there was a burned resistor on
the cruise control board. That kept it from working and I simply
replaced the entire module and it works fine now. I still need to
replace the resistor on the old board and it should be as good as
new. The center stand switch is mainly for the auto-level. ~Tracy

THE CHARGING SYSTEM
It started as a nice weekend Friday was a good ride Sat. was also
nice but boy Sunday went down hill very fast. After about 150 miles
the front left lower faring broke and boy that lets a lot of hot air
come up by the driver. All that to say after another 100 miles
stopped to stretch they the bike would not crank so I did the push
to crank thing did well for about 75 more miles and 50 miles from
home when all good things came to an end. I had the bike trailered
back home. Can you help with the series of test I have to do the
battery is on charge, but I feel that probably the stator or one of
the other parts are bad. Thanks for the help.  ~J.K. Foisey

Since we seem to be seeing a lot of charging system questions, I
thought I would send out a little primer on the system.

The charging system on the Cade is like that installed on a huge
majority of bikes. It's very simple having just 3 components and
only 2 of those are subject to failure; the stator and the
regulator/rectifier (or RR). The third component is the rotor but
unless the field magnets magically lost their magnetism or somehow
exited the assembly (virtually impossible on both counts) then the
rotor isn't subject to failure or replacement.

The stator is located in the LEFT side engine cover (left when
sitting on the bike facing forward). The failure of a stator is
typically through shorting of the windings to each other or to the
stator stack (the stack of thin plates that are riveted together to
provide the poles on which the windings are wound). In either case,
some or much of the power being generated by the movement of the
magnets past the poles will be drained off by the short.

According to Spikes statistics, a stator should last about 40K
miles. However, that is a mean value. Actual life is due to a number
of factors but some stators last much longer and a few don't last
quite that long. The reason the windings short out is due to heat.
The insulation on the stator windings is basically like a thick
coating of paint not like the plastic insulation found on ordinary
wire. Because they have to pack as much wire into such a small space
to realize a suitable power output, this enamel insulation has to be
thin and is only going to last so long. The cooler you keep it the
longer is should last. However, since the cooling is by the engine
oil and since we really can't modify how much oil spray gets onto
the windings; we have to accept that the windings will fail
eventually. That's just one of the drawbacks of a permanent magnet,
shunted system. I'll explain the shunted part in a minute.

Of the numerous stators that I've looked at, the typical failure is
in the upper quadrant. It appears that's where there's the least
amount of oil spray to the windings and that area runs hotter and
the insulation cooks faster. Since this is a shunted type system,
the windings are under constant stress.

In a permanent magnet system the field is created by permanent
magnets mounted inside the rotor which is spinning at crankshaft
speed. As each magnet's north and south poles pass over each stator
pole electrical power is generated in the form of AC (electrical
power being defined loosely by the movement of electrons in the
windings). The windings on the stator are connected in such a way
that 3 separate phases of AC are generated. The no load output of
the stator with the motor spinning at 5K RPM is around 100 volts
even though some high output stators are would differently and can
put out 200 no-load volts. Obviously, this is way more voltage than
what we need and we need to convert it to DC so that we can use it
to power the bike and acc and to keep the starting battery charged.
That's where the RR comes in.

The RR is mounted behind the tachometer (in front of it) and is
attached to the fairing frame. Is serves the function of both
rectifying the AC from the stator into usable DC and it also shunts
the excess power to ground to keep the voltage within a range that
will power the bike and acc and also keep the battery fully charged.
Under normal circumstances, the RR will keep about 14-14.5 volts on
the system. Even if the battery is fully charged, it should maintain
that voltage. However, when idling or when the demand is greater
that the output of the stator, that voltage can fall and under other
conditions it can also go up.

If you don't have any extra lights on and you can't read 14 volts at
the battery with the motor spinning at 3K or so, then either the
stator or the RR or both will probably need to be replaced. I say
probably because there is one important thing that needs to be
checked before committing either component to replacement.

There is a connector in the battery compartment through which the RR
Sends its extra current to the ground side of the system. That
connector in some (possibly many) cases will become corroded, loose
or whatever and the RR can't shunt the extra power to ground
properly so the RR will see much more heat than what it was designed
to and is destined to fail if the connector is not repaired.
Actually, the connector isn't even needed since it is only there for
the original assembly of the bike. If you check it and it looks
fine, good. Just make sure it's clean and tight and it won't hurt to
use some dielectric grease on it to prevent future corrosion.
Dielectric grease is available at any auto parts store and is also
listed as bulb grease. It is generally silicone based and has a very
high viscosity and won't melt and run out of the connector like
ordinary dino grease or Vaseline. Silicones have extremely high melt
temperatures and those sold as electrical grease (dielectric) are
made especially for electric applications. A tube will cost $2-3 and
is enough to do about every connection on the bike. In fact, every
time you have to take a connection apart, it's a good idea to make
sure it's clean and grease it to prevent future problems.

The connector in question can be seen at
http://www.billydump.com/cav/instruct/statorregrec.htm 

If the connector looks good, then you can proceed to checking the
stator output. BTW, I'm assuming that the battery in the bike is
good and doesn't have an internal short or something else wrong with
it. If you aren't sure, have it load checked. Most places that sell
batteries can also test them. If the connector is melted or has
other obvious signs of high resistance through it, it should be cut
out and the wires soldered together. If you repaired the connector
recheck the system voltage with the motor running at 3K or so and if
it still won't come up to 14 volts, then checking the stator is next.

Unfortunately, the only way to check the stator is with the stator
leads unplugged from the RR. Those connections (also shown at
http://www.billydump.com/cav/instruct/statorregrec.htm ) are located
just to the left of the headlight (sitting on bike facing forward)
and will most likely require the removal of the right upper fairing
to access. If you have child-size hands, you might be able to reach
them through the right speaker hole. You have to unplug them so that
the no load voltage output can be checked. The stator wires are
generally yellow but could be another color is the stator had been
replaced prior with a rewind. You would then just look for the
yellow wires coming from the RR and unplug the 3 large plastic
connectors. There are 3 small bullet type connectors that tie the
stator leads to the noise suppressor that hangs on the right side of
the headlight but those do not need to be unplugged to test the
stator.

With all 3 stator leads unplugged from the RR and with an AC
voltmeter set to read a least 100 VAC, test each pair of stator
leads while running the motor up to 5K RPM. By each pair I mean 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 1 and 3. Each pair should produce at least 90 VAC at
5K rpm. If you get something less than that on one or more pairs,
then the stator must be replaced. Fortunately, stators are easily
rewound with new wire since the stator stack is reusable over and
over. Several competent re-winders are listed at
http://www.suzukicavalcade.com/parts___vendors.htm  . Rewound stators
run about $125-$140 and there are even new stators available from
Rick's for a little more money. New isn't better, Rick's was running
out of cores and since the Cade and the FI Gold Wing share the same
stator stack, Rick's had tooling made to produce new stacks. If you
get a rewind, you are normally required to send in your old stator
as a core.

If the stator checks "good" (90 VAC + on each pair of 3 legs at 5K
RPM), then the only thing left is the RR. New ones are available
from several sources at the same address as above and will run about
$120-$140. Just a note, the Electrex RR will not come with the
factory style plugs for the stator connections and you'll have to
reuse your old ones and connect them on the new reg. Also, it won't
use the orange wire. The wire was used to sense system voltage and
the new regulators do that internally. The one from Rick's comes
with the factory connectors all around. It's been expressed that if
you want an Electrex, you will probably get better service out of
Dennis Kirk than buying it direct from Electrex.

If the stator checks bad then, obviously, you'll have to replace it
but the RR may also be bad. There is check procedure in the service
manual using an ohm meter. If you don't have a manual, send me an e-
mail at adnet@mpks.net  and I'll send you that page out of the manual.

That's about it. Simple as pie! Please note, though, that the stator
may check "good" but may still be on its way south. If you have 40K
or more miles and you want to be sure that it won't die on you in
the worst possible place, then you will have to remove the left side
engine case and look at it. Even though there's no steadfast way to
tell whether it's gonna fail in the next few miles, if it looks like
a crispy critter then a replacement is probably not a bad idea.
~Tracy

SIGNAL LIGHTS
I live in southwestern Ontario Canada and own a 1986 Cavalcade. The
problem that I have just experienced is when the right hand signal
light is activated then the dash light goes dim and the flasher
operates very fast. I checked the rear and front signal lights and
they are working however when the problem arises the lights (both
brake and signal) are very dim. I have changed the bulbs and this
does not solve the problem. This happens intermittently.  When this
happens the console then flashes to the stop light and the high beam
light. Before I take things apart I am wondering if anyone has had
similar problems and where I might start looking. ~Kevin

Kevin, I'd definitely check & fix the ground connector Mike
described. Beyond that, does the bike have a trailer connection? I
had similar problems which turned out to be bad connections and a
shorted trailer adapter. Any added lighting could do it if wired
wrong - the turn signal switch actually breaks the GROUND of the
circuit, so anything added to that particular circuit is likely to
cause a short. It might work fine until you hit the switch. BUT I
think it would do it regardless which way, R or L. It doesn't do
anything wrong when you activate the left signal?? Do you have stock
cornering lamps? ~Ed

Thank you for the help I haven't got the trailer package and it does
not seem to affect the left signal only the right. I have noticed
that there is some connection between the application of the front
brake and signal being interrupted. When I apply the brake then the
signal light and the brake light do not light up properly.  These
are just some of the things going on with this. I will be checking
the ground on both the brake and the signal lights. ~Kevin

FRONT END WOES
Now you guy's are scaring me.......I have not ridden in several
years but recall a problem I had and it seemed no one in the group
had an answer..........I want to drive it this summer and would like
to find an answer.............At high speeds on the highway in the
mountains my 88LXE would start rocking from side to
side..........handle bars would remain straight and not move.....the
whole bike would sway left to right pivoting on the tires and stay
in a straight line........This really scared me the first time it
happened at 90 miles an hour..........As I got more accustomed to
it, the fear went away and it was chalked up to be the nature of the
beast..........Changed the tires from Dunlops to
Avons............still the same............Someone said it was the
rear head rest causing it....................can't seem to believe
that........do not have a Super Brace, but most people say that
would only effect the bike at lower speeds............Well rack your
brains.... Would appreciate some input.........lets see if there is
a cure out there.........Jer

The tightness of the swing arm bearings is a likely culprit. Frank
M. spent at least $1000 with other work and tires and such and
didn't cure it until he checked/tightened the swing arm bearings. It
then went away.

There's probably some scientific explanation why it doesn't happen
until a certain speed but the fact remains that if the bearings have
a little too much slop in them (and it don't take much for the foot-
and-a-half lever of a swing arm to exacerbate) then the bike will
pivot in the center and wander as you describe.

I would also consider the rear wheel inner bearing race being worn
but from what I gather, the later models used a through hardened
race that was hard chrome plated to resist wear even further. The
race wear was most likely only an issue with 86-87, or possibly only
86.

No reason to be scared. When it's all put together right and it's
all tight, the bike will not be unstable. The difference with shaft
drive bikes is that the normal axle-through-bearings and pivot shaft-
through-bearings are different to accommodate the driveshaft/final
drive. It takes a little more care to make sure it stays put. That's
the offset of not having to deal with a chain. Personally, I think
it's a good trade. I hate taking care of drive chains. ~Tracy

COOLING PROBLEMS
I just got back from a trip to Acadia National park in Maine. My
bike started doing this a while ago but is getting worse. At first
it would puke antifreeze out of the overflow when it was hot and you
shut it off. Now it does it sitting at intersections. It runs ok if
you keep moving. I filled it in the morning and by afternoon it was
down about a half gallon. I think it may be the thermostat but if it
cools while driving it should be opening. Maybe it's the radiator
cap? Thanks for any info, ~Mike

I would put on a new cap and go from there. Get at any auto parts
store. Worst case, replace the head gasket. ~Tracy

Thanks Tracy, I will give it a try. Is there anything else that I
might look at while I have the Cade apart?  ~Rob R.

Check the radiator for bent fins. For some reason, they get used for
Frisbees sometimes and a lot of fins get mashed over in the process.
Make sure fan comes on. I recently purchased some water wetter
additive. There was some discussion about it awhile back and I
finally bought some. I haven't ridden with it in the system yet but
it makes some interesting claims about lowering water temps and it
allows better heat transfer in and out of the water. I noticed it
was at Auto Zone also. ~Tracy

Tracy, I had a cooling problem and blew a little coolant out the
over flow tube. I thought I had lost the tank above the engine.
After tearing it down I have seen no crack in the tank. Tonight I
will try to make a fitting to pressure test the tank with air. Since
I have done all the work to gain access to the whole cooling system
I want to change all the parts I can do to the age of all of them. I
will check the hoses for stress cracks tonight. I am seeing no
reason to lose fluid over the engine. Is there anything I might look
at while I have my baby down? Is there an aftermarket thermostat for
the Cade? Are the hoses still available? ~Keith

Aftermarket thermostat? I bought one but others say they won't work.
52mm is what I used. Here's some info that I posted prior. However,
you will need to check fit before proceeding with use.

<thermostat with the exception that you need to drill 1 or 2 - 1/8"
holes in the face of it for bypass. The NAPA part numbers of stats
that are 52mm are #242, #285 and #533090 (this is a heavy duty one).
One of the others (#242 or #285) has a quasi check valve in the face
of the stat. If you simply snip the end off the brass valve part,
you are left with a 1/8" hole in the face of the stat. >>

Hoses? Yes, all hoses are available.

Spit out overflow? 1) the upper tank may have been slightly
overfull, 2) are you sure it was from the overflow and not the water
pump weep hole in the block, 3) cracks in the lower tank can open up
with heat, may be too small to see with the unaided eye until it
gets hot, 4) is the fan coming on when it should?, lots of failed
noise suppressors and fan switches, 5) Is the radiator cap good. Bad
cap will allow premature spitting (and we all know that's a really
bad thing). Here's some info on the cap.

<<The radiator cap on the Cade is the same one that's used by a
whole slew of small cars. The NAPA/Baldkamp equivalent is 703-1443.
It is actually a Stant brand cap. Same size and rating as OEM Cade
(13 lbs). >> ~Tracy

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CADES FOR SALE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hebron, Indiana
Pictures can be seen at http://www.tomsauto.net/  86 LXE FOR SALE
Selling my 86 LXE. 47,000 miles, CB, Back Rest, 4 Helmets, 2 with
intercoms, Cover, all books and manuals. 2 tone blue.
tom@tomsauto.net 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Birmingham, Alabama
My friend wants to sell his Cade. He has owned it for 5 years and
only put about 3k miles on it. It's an 86 lx with 32K miles. Color
is Tan on tan. I have pictures if anyone is interested. Please email
me direct at nodman74@bellsouth.net.  It has the Tracy Cork install
and all the fluids except the front forks have been replaced last
winter. It has a new battery, new stator and reg/rec, new clutch
springs, and switches have been replaced in the radio. Everything
works. It also has fork lights, saddle bag trim lights and the light
that in the back between the saddle bags. Tires have about 3k on
them (Dunlops). Now for the negative stuff, the left upper fairing
has some cracks back by the drive and the map holder has two cracks
in the clear view area. He is asking $3500 but might take a little
less. ~Don
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
New England
86 LXE with new fork seals, Progressive fork springs, front wheel
bearings and Dunlop Elite white wall tire in front 50 miles ago. It
has 37,000 miles, compressor and radio works great, has luggage rack
and painted mural with trees, lake and water falls on the radio
cover. Drive this bike any where. It runs great looks great. Email
for pictures. The bike is maroon/brownish and tan. I was asking
$4500. Reduced to $3995.  Just spent over $600 on the front end. For
pics email nighthawk56@cox.net 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dryden, Ontario, Canada
Price for my 86 LX, maroon/tan, as is $4,000 Cdn. I am offering it
to Group members first.  If no takers, it will hit the block again
in the spring to the local population. ~Bryan Buffett
cdnbiker2002@yahoo.ca 

 

Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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