December, 2004


Jay Johnson, Editor

The 2005 tour for those of us in the East to start the weekend of Sept 9, 10th, 11th, 12th, at Deals Gap.  Then our ride will progress north along the Blue Ridge, with side trips, ending 2nd weekend Sept 16, 17, 18, 19th near Front Royal Virginia.  What's nice for those who can't get time off, you can come any weekend or during the week.  Every day we'll have 4-5 hr rides to include food, shopping for the ladies or some local attractions.  For more information on lodging and ride routes go to: 
Or contact, Larry Dilldine: 
September 12-16 are the dates for our West Coast Cade Raid in 2005.  We will tour Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park, visit Cody and Jackson Hole, Wyoming.  We will also feature evening classes and hands-on workshops on Cavalcade maintenance and repair and we'll host a Cavalcade Store where you can buy and sell Cavalcade parts and items, like we did last year at Branson.  Our lodging will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort at Island Park, Idaho.  We have reserved the entire resort for our Cade Raid.  To reserve your guest room, their telephone number is 208-558-9366, email address is and web site
is   In addition to the guest rooms, Sawtelle Resort has RV sites, tent sites and a bunkhouse.  The bunkhouse will be available for solo men, at a cost of $210 per person for the six nights we will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort.  The $210 rate equals $35 per night.  If you wish to take advantage of the bunkhouse lodging, you will need to register and make payment in advance to me @   A
$50 deposit will hold your reservation until August 15, 2005.  Payment in full will be due on that date.  Please email me if you'd like to book into the bunkhouse.
If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group, send the information to  and it will be posted in the next issue of this newsletter.
This post is address to all the great folks that are Cavalcade lovers and riders.  Winter finally hit Alaska and I had to put the bike away for the winter.  Summers are short here and we have about a six month riding season if we are lucky.  Being a new Cavalcade owner, (April `04) I learned a lot about this great machine.  I put nearly 7,000 miles on this summer.  I rode every chance I could get.  From +15 degrees on up, I rode her to work and for pleasure.  I
learned a lot about my 87 LX thru this format.  Now that I have her put away for the winter, I have plans and a list of things I need to get done to have her ready for this next riding season.  I just wanted to say thanks to the folks that make this site possible and to the members that keep this great machine alive... Joe in AK.  87 LX

Unfortunately I was unable to ride my Cade all summer because it was sitting at a shop that had no knowledge of this bike.  The first half of the summer it rained then in June I took it to a shop and it sat there 'til yesterday.   I have used this mechanic for 10 years and been very pleased with his work in the past but he just didn't know this bike and wasted my whole summer and still charged me full price for what little work he did.   Anyway on Saturday I decided to pull it out of there and take it to Jerry who lives about 15 miles from me.  I wish I had known him a few months back.   Dropped the bike off yesterday around 3: pm and 10 minutes later my carbs were sitting on his bench in pieces.   This guy is passionate and really knows his way around this bike. 

I picked the bike up today 24 hours after dropping it off and it is like a whole new bike.   It runs great and he fixed a lot of little problems I didn't even know I had, but were potentially major fixes down the line.   Jerry also educated me on a lot of little things I didn't know about this bike.   My 76 year old father was with me and he is even amazed at Jerry's knowledge of this bike.

Jerry I (along with my 2 daughters that got to ride for the first time this year in the sidecar) just want to say thanks for everything.   The bike runs great, feels great and no more cloud of smoke behind me either!!  And here I thought I was looking for a rebuild or another motor soon!!

So if anyone needs any work done to their Cade I highly recommend making the trip to see Jerry here in southern Wisconsin.  Even if you're coming from a few hundred miles away it would be worth your trip rather than going to your local Suzuki shop, etc.  Honestly I almost felt guilty writing out the check ... just didn't seem like enough considering everything he did .... but he will make more money off me in the future!! ~ Donny O., 87 LXE W/California Friendship III sidecar

A couple weeks ago, I asked about relocating the trunk & backrest to allow more seat room.  I got this done and it made a HUGE comfort difference for both of us.  Before, we were pretty crowded on there.  Now I'm not pushed forward, and she's got room to breathe, even with the driver's backrest in place!  Brenda says she's MUCH more
comfortable this way.

Here's what to do in case anyone wants to replicate it.  Like Jeff Watts suggested, I used aluminum but did it somewhat differently since I wanted to keep the backrest adjustable.  He used thicker material, but didn't use the slides.  First, decide how far back you want to relocate the backrest - I moved it back 2", this puts its new forward location just about where the original rear location was.  It WILL still slide when finished and it needs to since w/o a passenger it looks pretty goofy waaay back there!  Slide it forward & it looks stock.

Simple job, really.  All that's needed is a length of " x 1" aluminum bar stock, plus 4 bolts & nuts.  Cut 2 pieces of aluminum 15" long.  It could be shorter but this worked fine for me, as I plan to mount lights on the back of these.  Measuring from one end, make a mark at 1" and at 10".  FROM THOSE MARKS, add the desired amount &
mark it.  Drill centered 5/16 holes at these four points.  Unbolt the four travel trunk slide nuts from the chrome mount bracket.  Remove the return spring.  Whole trunk & backrest will pivot forward enough w/o disconnecting any wires or hoses.  Bolt the aluminum bars to the lower mount bracket with the first hole that you measured closest to the seat.  Lower the trunk onto the bar, the studs should fit into the remaining two holes.  Test its travel, and then tighten the nuts.  The return spring's too short now so I just left it off so far, but you could get a longer one or make an extension.

Easy job, works great, costs little, (under $10) and she's happy.  As an added bonus, the slight shift in weight distribution makes the trike ride a bit better.  Yeah, this was done on a TRIKE, so I've no idea yet if it would affect the handling of a "normal" bike.  Will be doing the same mod to the bike eventually, but we seldom ride it two-
up anyway. ~Ed in St Louis

Recently I notice that my 86LX has an odd 'PFHT' sound while warming
up. It completely disappears in about 5 minutes. It is an erratic
sound, almost as if there is a partial misfire. IF riding, it
definitely behaves like a minor misfire. Anyone know what it might
be and where to start looking, assuming that it needs attention? I'm
thinking that one of the coils is failing, as I have also
experienced some hesitation in fog or wet weather. Would this make
sense? ~Peter in Nova Scotia Peter: My bike has been doing that for
years, I always put it off that it was a bit of a backfire as the
engine was not warmed up yet, as for it damaging the valves, I don't
know, there is 175,000kms on it and still runs smooth when it is
warmed up. ~Hoadley

Peter: Your PFHT! PFHT! is a cracked Carb boot they are made of a
hard rubber compound and one has separated at the witness seam. They
have what appears to be a seam on each side from a mold and they
seem to crack there after these many years. The carb boot I'm
referring to is the one between the carburetor BASE and the head,
one for each Carb. When this is happening you can gently wrap your
thumb and forefinger around the boot one at a time and find which
one it is right away. Could be cracked inside or outside has this
seam on both sides. This could result in a valve problem. ~ I sealed
one of mine with some 3M 5800 rubber sealing compound. By cleaning
this area real good with some lacquer thinner and building the
rubber sealant up on the seam sort of a hump over the seam. This
rubber gets real hard but still flexible enough to do the job.
Sealant comes in WHITE or BLACK at your local Marine supply. Repair
made a couple of years ago, still holding. Good cure time about 24
to 36 hours, also comes in QUICK setting, just follow directions on
tube. Or you can replace the boots if you can find them. ~Old COOT n
Maryland Aka Walter

That sound is actually pretty normal on cold startup. It's worse
when the outside temp is down. I believe it's simply a slight
backfire due to a slightly lean condition on one or cylinders. If it
goes away when it warms up then I wouldn't sweat it too much. I've
had a lot of bikes through here and it's pretty common on most of
them. ~Tracy

I only answered this out of experience. My gold Cade never did this.
One morning on start up it suddenly appeared, and I noticed a slight
spray from the boot area. I wrapped my thumb and forefinger around
the boot and upon the NEXT PFHT found the carb boot PULSED and could
feel the seam open up, sealed it with the compound I suggested and
it went away. My blue Cade has not started this so far. As for harm
to the valves, as long as the seam only opens up on compression,
everything might be OK but if it starts sucking COLD air on the
intake could possibly harm a valve. POSSIBLY???? Although with one
with 179,000 miles I guess proof is in the pudding and who knows I
might have a leaking intake valve how else could it be "PFHT"ing
back thru the carb boot, unless there is a slight Overlap. This
subject has been discussed before, in more detail might want to do
an archives search and read some of the posts. Sometimes it's
amazing to read what was said MONTHS ago and what is posted NOW,
Memory seems to fail some of us. ~Old COOT n Maryland

Hi there, when I was reading the messages, especially those from
Ryszard, I start worrying about my Cade. Ryszard says he uses
6Lit/100Km, what you guys think is a little on the high side. I know
mine is using 10lit/100Km as from the first day it was bought. My
brother bought it new and has always had this gas/mileage, now it is
mine and it still uses as much. Should I be worried, and what is
there to be done? I also talked to a friend here, who said his was
running on 9lit/100km, and if he didn't play with his gas while
braking, it would stop running. Biker-minded greetings, ~Karel
Karel, Gas mileage is affected by lots of things, where you live,
how you ride, what you ride, the gas you use and how you measure it.
Your mileage should be averaged over several tanks of gas; you can't
fill the tank to the exact same spot every time. And don't always
believe the numbers people throw out. My old Yamaha 1100 always got
40 mpg but one day crossing the dessert with a 60mph tail wind I got
66mpg. The Cavalcade is supposed to get about 35-40 mpg US. If you
are running it hard you will get less and some times a lot less.
Back in the eighties Craig Vetter held gas mileage contests. The
first year a 1000cc Harley got 98mpg, the fifth year a Honda got
almost 500mpg 
The way the Cade is built I don't think much can be done to improve
mileage. The gearing is fixed with the shaft drive. I would bet a LX
would get better mileage than a LXE because of the lowers on the LXE
causing more air drag and the LX is lighter. A smaller windshield
would lessen frontal area and lower the center of drag but you still
have a thousand pounds of rolling weight and a huge motor turning at
high rpm. You could just ride slower but that's not much fun. If
your bike is running good and you are enjoying the ride that is far
more important than how much fuel you use. Of course you want to
keep it well tuned. As far as your friend's bike is concerned if it
dies when stopping the carbs probably need to be rebuilt. ~Mark

My fuel pump on my 87 went out. Does anyone know a good
replacement? I cannot find an OEM replacement. ~Jaynshell

The Madura 700 that I own developed a fuel pump problem and I
replaced it with a non Cade pump available at your local auto parts
store it has a supply pressure of 3.5 to 5 lbs and is about half the
cost of the original pump. The part number is NAPA P 74029, you will
have to purchase some brass fittings to adapt it to the Cade. As for
the plug, you can cut the old one off the BAD CADE pump and splice
it on to the NEW wires. It's a small square looking pump doesn't
take up much room. It also has an internal shut off when the
pressure reaches its limit and will work just as well as an
ORIGINAL. ~Walter n Maryland


My story: This may be a month too late to matter to you guys, but I
lost spark on the Nr 3 cylinder (a loooong way from home,
Ranchester, WY). Luckily I managed to limp into town with a breath
of fuel left, found gasoline for the Cade and a friendly motel
owner, who let me use the parking lot for motorcycle maintenance.

I found that problem was that one of the wires from the control box
to the Nr 3 coil was OPEN (the wire was no longer intact). The open
was within the wiring harness.  I did a temp bypass jumper to see if
that would fix the problem, and when it did I soldered it in place
on a semi-permanent basis. It is a terrible solder job as I didn't
have a hot enough soldering iron and the original wire was badly
corroded. It has worked fine for the last 4000 miles, but that
corroded wire bothers me as it was within the insulation of the
wire, who knows if the others are as bad and waiting to fail??? Any
one else experience corroded wire failures?? ~Len Buswell, LXE, MA

Len, Are you sure it is the coil??? It may be worthwhile to check
the supply wires to primary of the coil. (Continuity check of each
wire from the control unit connector to the connector at the coil)

I have a question.  I plugged my Cade a while back and must have
damaged the seal.  Now the secondary is leaking.  Also the U-joint
went south and I noticed the rear end is leaking though the levels
fine. Could it be draining out of the secondary and running back?
Also, since I need to replace the driveshaft AND fix the secondary
seals again, what kind of parts list do you suggest and if Tracy
reads this do you have all except for the Driveshaft available.  I
looked in Billy Dump but do not see the seals listed, maybe I am
blind. ~Dennis

I have the seals listed as a kit but if you need the individual ones
I can do that too. I just need to know which ones you need. ~ Yes,
90W can leak out of the secondary and go right back to the final and
pool there. ~ Also, I can get you a new driveshaft with the bigger u-
joint for $163 (retails for $193-$200+ depending on the dealer).

Tracy, I was at a Suzuki dealer last week and they have brake fluid
for dot 3/dot 4. He said it can be used in the Cade as dot 4. Do you
have experience with this dot 3/4 fluid? ~George

DOT 3/4 simply means that it's DOT 4 fluid but can be used where DOT
3 is specified. Save yourself some money, I use Valvoline synthetic
DOT 4 brake fluid from AutoZone for $5/quart. It has one of the
highest wet boiling points of the different fluids I checked. ~Tracy

Hi Tracy!  Got your clutch switch yesterday and installed it this
morning...piece of cake.  I have one question out of sheer curiosity
though.  Remember I was having the clutch problem where it engaged
real late?  Well that problem is now gone.  The clutch starts to
engage when the lever is maybe 1/2" to an inch from the grip.  You
didn't accidentally send me the Magical Clutch Switch that fixes all
clutch problems did you???  One other thing, when I took the banjo
bolt out no fluid came out like I was expecting.  The reservoir was
full so I can't figure that one out either since I assumed I should
lose fluid through the hole.  Ya think something could have been
clogged and now that's why the clutch engages earlier now too?  Like
I said, I'm just curious.  Thanks again for the parts..........and
by the way, yes I still want the clutch gasket and springs in case
you were wondering.  I'll use them someday and I'm still not
positive that the clutch isn't slipping anyway since I haven't
ridden it much yet. ~Rick

You will not get much fluid out when you remove the banjo bolt
unless you pull the lever in. And just taking a guess at why your
clutch is better now is that when you removed the banjo bolt and
installed the switch in its place, you let out an air bubble that
was there at the same time. Or instead of air, maybe you let out
some gunk that was hindering the fluids return into the MC.???? 
Hope this helps. ~Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

The reason it works better now, probably, is because you had a
little air in the master cylinder. Now that it's out, the clutch
works as it should. (Maybe) There's nothing magical about the switch
beyond the fact that it completely eliminates the stock one which is
all the magic that I need. ~Tracy

Has anyone had recent problems with the clutch starting to drag? In
3 or 4th gear just letting of the throttle she dives like it's in
1st or 2nd gear. At the same time just started to have shifting
problems finding neutral and now the top gears are hard to shift
into. ~Blake 86' 2-tone brown

I think I would have to guess along with some others that you have a
rear brake dragging due to a sticky linkage. Oil all of the brake
pedal pivots and linkage points.

But, that doesn't really explain finding neutral. So I would
lubricate the shifter pivots as well and even where the shifter
shaft passes through the secondary. You'd be surprised at how sticky
it all gets without some lube. And, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Use
oil or grease.

Of course, it could lie deeper. Your motor oil choice may not be
helping (oil has a pretty big effect on shifting), you could have
one or more shifting arms that are getting worn (inside the tranny)
or something else related to wear.

First things first, though, make sure the pivots and linkage are
lubricated and that the rear brake pedal returns freely to its up
position. ~Tracy

Hi guys, I own an 86 LXE with 44k on the clock. Stator, R/R, and
battery have been replaced in the last 9 months. It's a great
running machine. I've never have had any problems with this bike
since I've had it over the last 3 years. I have put the last 30k
miles on it since I bought it. Last week I went to start the old
girl and noticed that my battery was a tad week so I let off on the
button and the starter kept running. I immediately shut off the key
and it still turned over very slowly one or two more times before it
stopped. Now I have no lights or anything when the key is turned on,
checked the voltage and the battery does not show but .08 volts, I
tried to charge it in the bike with my trickle charger but it won't.
~Kevin, Lake Stevens, WA

Kevin: You may have popped the circuit breaker (to the right of
battery). When the battery gets weak, it can because the contacts in
the starter relay to arc. If there's not enough voltage to click the
relay closed hard, then the contacts can arc and stick together
causing the run on of the starter. Only way to stop it (if it
doesn't on its own) is to take a cable off either at the battery
or at the starter (Spike has installed a cut-off switch just for
that purpose). ~ If the battery is near dead, make sure you charge
it before letting the bike system try to bring it up. That can be a
little hard on things. If the battery won't charge in the bike, I
would do some checking with a meter. You may have a short or
something else going on. ~Tracy

Have you tried Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil to free up a noisy
lifter? I use it in the gas but thought I'd get some input first.
MMO may or may not help with a Cade lifter that's ticking. According
to the service manual, when you get a ticker it's because the lifter
has lost its bleed and has some air in it. Unfortunately, there is
no procedure to bleed the beyond taking the lifters out and doing it
by hand with some kerosene and an oil can. Some motors have been
quieted fairly drastically by using synthetic oil. Not always, but
sometimes it makes a pretty drastic difference. MMO has some
solventing power and can sometimes clean up the gunk that gets them
stuck in the first place. Shaler's Rislone does something similar.
However, if it's not a buildup issue (and since a bike motor runs
pretty hot that is less of an issue unless you ride it for really
short trips all the time), the MMO or SR may have little if any
effect. If you're going to use it, I would put it in and run it for
only a few hundred miles and then change the oil. I can't give you a
distinct reason for doing that, it just makes sense to me. ~Tracy

I have been having a problem with finding a leak. I had to replace
my stator and when I put the new gasket on I have a leak. I even put
another new gasket on and it still LEAKS. It only leaks when I go on
a ride if the engine heats up and when I park it on the kick stand I
get 3 little drops by the kick stand, under the primary area, and
back of the stator area. It looks like oil. I have even put high
temp RTV around the stator cover. Is there any other place to look
at or ideals on what to do next? ~Todd, Franklin, Indiana

I would reseal the grommet around the stator wires. Some of the new
grommets are slightly smaller than OEM and you need to make sure you
have enough sealer all the way round it to get the job done. Very
important, when you reseal it, LET IT DRY FOR A DAY before you start
the motor! The sealer needs time to set up and if you start it right
away the hot oil will get in behind the sealer. Also, that area
needs to be squeaky clean so the sealer can stick.

Also, high temp sealer (orange stuff) isn't as good with oil as some
of the others. Use Suzukibond, Yamabond or the grey import spec
sealer. They are all good choices. I had one that it took me 3 tries
to seal it up. ~Tracy

Can you tell me the best way to start my bike? When I choke it, it
seems as thought the choke isn't set. If I throttle it I'm doomed.
It has to set for about 30 minutes till I can even TRY to get it to
start. Once it DOES catch it never really acts as if the fast idle
is set. ~slugger46171

1) Make sure that the enrichment slides are working as you move the
choke lever (look at the gold colored slides on the outside of the
carbs just below the gold colored round/square caps)

2) key on

3) run/stop switch to run

4) thumb start button WITHOUT pulling in clutch (you should hear
clicks from under the seat) and hold until clicking stops (note: if
the bike tries to start without pulling in clutch then the clutch
safety switch has been bypassed, repair or replace clutch safety
switch with new OEM or aftermarket hydraulic version that I keep)

5) pull choke lever to full on position

6) Pull in clutch and thumb starter button but DO NOT twist throttle
until after it starts

7) After it gets done spitting and sputtering and the idle speed
starts to come up, back off on the choke lever to hold about 2K RPM

8) After about a minute or two (outside temp dependent), you should
be able to back the choke off fully and ride possibly with some
additional sputtering until it warms up a bit more.

You could have some stuck choke (enrichment) cables and it isn't
getting the mixture rich enough. The primary choke cable may also
need to be adjusted a little.

I left on my key, ran down the battery. I jump started my bike and
everything worked until I notice the LED indicator was not looking
right. Can you tell me what is wrong now and what I need to do to
get my baby back to working right? ~JAMES 1987LXE Oklahoma City

Gotta check fuses first. Besides that, connections maybe. ~Tracy

Tracy....  Ha, I got one for you, and all the guy's..... After about
105,000 miles I finally changed the water pump... was leaking a
little oil, so I thought it was time... anyways, bought a new one
from Suzuki, $140 some dollars, I believe.., ....the new one leaks
more than the old one did.. What do you think????  ~Paul Kennedy,

The new one is messed up. And, it wasn't/isn't leaking oil (or is
shouldn't have been anyway). It was probably leaking antifreeze but
it was so rusty that is looks like oil. If it is oil, then you may
have a leak in the o-ring that seals the pump to the motor. Send it
back and get another. ~Tracy

I had a miss- firing situation yesterday.  Went to check the plugs
and pulled one of the boots off the wire.  Do these just sort of
screw onto the wires? Also, I noticed an arc from the wire to
ground.  Can these wires be replaced or are they connected
permanently to the coils? I haven't had time to look at the CD. ~Mike

The ends screw onto the wires. New wires can be attached but you
will have to cut the old ones near the coils. ~Tracy

Can you tell me how to tighten the front steering head bearings??
What has to be removed and how tight should they be. Is there
anything special I should look for while doing this? ~Dave
Brown '86 LX

The Cades are notorious for having no grease on the steering head
bearings (big S wanted to save $.02) so a good greasing is probably
in order along with a check for notches in the races (the lower one
especially). Notched races must be repaired (a spin up in a lathe
with emery cloth might take them out) or replaced. Tightening them
up with notches in place produces bad results. ~ Seat, false tank,
steering head cover come off to get to the nuts. Top nut holds
triple clamp in place and lower one adjusts preload. But, dropping
the triple tree down (with or without the forks still in place) and
checking/greasing the bearings is highly recommended. Use care if
you decide to leave forks on. Use a ratchet strap to hold center
stand in the forward position so it don't flip back on you as
you work. ~Tracy


S.E. Florida
Like new 1986 LX. 38,000 miles.  I'm the second owner. Perfect
chrome and paint [Two tone gold and tan.].Everything works as it
should. Have the Tracy plug and seal kit. [Not installed, not needed
yet.]All brake and clutch fluids changed. New regulator/rectifier.
New battery. Carbs cleaned and balanced at local Suzuki dealer. New
Avon Viper tires. New brakes. Mobile 1 Oil used. [Oil drips a little
from the gear shift shaft seal since Mobile 1 was introduced. I have
the seal.]I have the original owner's manual in the leather case.
Also have an ORIGINAL factory service manual from the Suzuki
dealership. Tracy CD is included, plus a lot of other stuff I can't
think of now! The only thing this bike needs is a new owner. I have
too many irons in the fire right now. Just not enough time to ride
it. I'll let it go for a LOT less than I have in it. $3500 very
FIRM!  Contact Doug Woodin days at 904-669-3116. Eves and wknds. 386-
437-7253.Located Bunnell, Fl. [Just south of St. Augustine.]
Boswell, Oklahoma
Time and $ forces the sale of our Cade, 1987 LXE Maroon, original,
and Cherry black, with red pin striping.  Can be seen in Branson
Group photo on Cade site, first row far left. Best photo on our web
site,, go to bottom of page on left
under "Suzuki".  Never crashed, 37,531 miles. ~ Good tires, lower
rear light bar, radio rebuilt, Super brace, Russell touring seat
with adjustable back rest, Passenger arm rest, Markland driver foot
boards, Custom Grips, Extra large vented windshield, Gold Wing side
vents, Original and half covers, Trailer hitch and Cade mud flap,
map holder, saddle bags have travel bags, New sealed battery.

$4,000.00 OBO ~ Don "Pappy" Papin, 8569 Lake West Road, Boswell Ok
home:  580 566 1127 ~ cell:   580 317 7418
Central, Wisconsin
I am looking to sell my 86 Cavalcade. It has 17,123 Orig. miles. Of
which 12,000 miles I put on it. I am the 2nd owner of this bike. It
is in ECELLENT condition. It has the drivers back rest, extra chrome
and lights. It is 2-tone Blue in color. It has NEVER been dumped or
crashed. It comes with the orig. cover. It was always stored in a
garage, NEVER out side. If any one would be interested please feel
free to email me. I could take some pictures of it and email them to
you. I live in Manawa, about 30 miles North West of Appleton. At
this time I am taking offers. I do not drive it any more. It has
been parked for 2 or 3 years now. If you would know some one
interested in a bike like this please forward this email to them.
Thank You Bruce Email:
Will be selling an 88 Suzuki Cavalcade LE, Low miles. I will be
putting it on EBAY After the first of the year.  Very clean bike I
am the 3rd owner second owner was my brother and he did not ride it
much due to buying a new Gold wing, the original owner sold it due
to illness in family. This bike has been well taken care of, just
need another owner. Email:
Glendale, Arizona
1986 LXE w/California sidecar, 50,000 miles, Alarm system, $3500 ~
Stephen Baker
Sidecar for Sale
I have sold my 86 cavalcades and want to thank you for all your
responses. I still have the Velorex sidecar for sale if interested
you can contact me at
Motor for Sale
If anyone interested I have a good motor for sale for a Cavalcade.
The motor has 31,000 mi on it, no carbs just the motor. If
interested Call 910 433-2461 or 910 978- 9722 any time.



Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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