January, 2005

The 2005 tour for those of us in the East to start the weekend of
Sept 9, 10th, 11th, 12th, at Deals Gap. Then our ride will progress
north along the Blue Ridge, with side trips, ending 2nd weekend Sept
16, 17, 18, 19th near Front Royal Virginia. What's nice for those
who can't get time off, you can come any weekend or during the week.
Every day we'll have 4-5 hr rides to include food, shopping for the
ladies or some local attractions. For more information on lodging
and ride routes go to: 
Or contact, Larry Dilldine: 
September 12-16 are the dates for our West Coast Cade Raid in 2005.
We will tour Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park,
visit Cody and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. We will also feature evening
classes and hands-on workshops on Cavalcade maintenance and repair
and we'll host a Cavalcade Store where you can buy and sell
Cavalcade parts and items like we did last year at Branson.
Our lodging will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort at Island Park,
Idaho. We have reserved the entire resort for our Cade Raid. To
reserve your guest room, their telephone number is 208-558-9366,
email address is  and web site
In addition to the guest rooms, Sawtelle Resort has RV sites, tent
sites and a bunkhouse. The bunkhouse will be available for solo men
at a cost of $210 per person for the six nights we will be at the
Sawtelle Mountain Resort. The $210 rate equals $35 per night. If you
wish to take advantage of the bunkhouse lodging, you will need to
register and make payment in advance to me. A
$50 deposit will hold your reservation until August 15, 2005.
Payment in full will be due on that date. Please email me if you'd
like to book into the bunkhouse.
of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.
In removing my secondary, 2 bolts that hold the cam dog cover on
broke down at the threads. Any idea what is next? Also, trying to
get the secondary off, I have the stator cover off and didn't remove
the back wheel. Any tricks to getting it all the way off. Trying to
limit the damages, which are presently 2 bolts broken too many. Any
help is appreciated. ~Thanks

FOR ANY future secondary REMOVERS (cam dog cover) As this cover is
under pressure from the compression of the cam dog loosen all the
bolts mounting it to the secondary FIRST then slowly back them out
alternately until they are all out, By removing them as they are
loosened, this can cause the cover to become cocked therefore
causing more torque to unseat the remaining TWO, possibly breaking
them off as happened to you. Same goes for REINSTALLING. Get them
all started and by using a TIGHTENING SEQUENCE bring them all up to
proper torque. If they aren't broken off flush with the secondary
might try penetrating oil or perhaps a little heat right on
the stud itself and a GOOD pair of vice grips. Prior post answered
how to remove the drive shaft... wheel has to go
back to disengage the drive shaft ON REASSEMBLY MAKE SURE the
splines are engaged into the secondary BEFORE tightening everything
up, IT IS possible to reassemble and the drive shaft U JOINT NOT be
engaged.   Good luck ~OLD COOT n Maryland

Hi Ed, I saw your letters about the seat cover problems. I believe
you asked if anyone sold a replacement cover. I ran across a place
that does just that and in a variety of colors. Here is one of the
testimonials from their site:
"I own a 1980 Honda CB750F, and the seat cover was faded and ripped
in two places. While searching the internet, I came across your web
site which offered replacement covers. I felt more comfortable
ordering from a 35 year old company that manufactured the covers
themselves, than from a wholesale company. I ordered the next day,
and within 12 days, it arrived at my door. I have never upholstered
anything in my life, but in 15 minutes I had the old cover off, and
by using your instructions, I had the new one on in about 45
minutes. ~ It looks fantastic, the fit was perfect and there wasn't
a wrinkle on it. Keep up the good work, I'll recommend you to
everyone. I know." They have covers for the Cade at around $89. You
can take a look at their site at;  ~Perry

There ARE aftermarket lights readily available that will fit very
well in place of the factory corners - APC lighting, kit# 505504C   
we have them on our trike, here's the explanation & photos of the
Personally, I think they look much better than the originals. ~Ed

I checked to see what the oil level is in the engine after adding
3.9 quarts by peering into the oil fill opening.  I have found it
very difficult to see how much oil is in the engine by looking
through the inspection window. 
  I had similar problem and was able to make a cleaning rod out of a
VERTY small stainless welding rod. I made a real tight loop in it
and placed a very small piece of cloth and fished it down THRU the
engine oil fill hole. It was VERY LUCKY and went into one of the
holes in the metal inside the sight glass. If you don't feel lucky
or adventurous, remove the clutch cover and clean the glass and the
reflective metal inside. We could do this at the BARNETT clutch
spring installation.
>>Also, does anyone have any suggestions as to how frequently I
might want to add oil to top-off the current amount between oil
  Shouldn't have to add oil between oil changes, UNLESS it's burning
or going some place it shouldn't be going. i.e.; Secondary gear
drive or an oil leak. Check dem oil levels.... ~Old Coot n Maryland

Firstly, if you changed the filter during your oil change, just put
a gallon of oil in it. The amount on the case is for a change
without the filter. A gallon fits fine and will not overfill it. ~
Secondly, if your inspection window is dark you might want to
consider changing the brand of oil. If the window is dark then
everything inside the motor has the same "gunky" film on it. It's a
sign of poor detergent action of the motor oil. ~Tracy

Ok, so I am learning how to work on my Cavalcade bit by bit.
Yesterday, I noticed the brake reservoir was a little low for the
back brake.  I started to unscrew the top off the reservoir and
stripped one of the two machine screws that hold that bad boy in
place.  I went to Lowe's today and bought an "Ease-Out" tool for
extracting the stripped screw.

Here's my quandary:  Before I extract the machine screw, I want to
find a replacement.  Anyone have any inexpensive) suggestions??? The
reservoir is low, not dry, and the weather here in S. Florida is too
good to miss if I take the cover off the reservoir and can't get it
back on.  Plus, I'm no mechanic (obviously) but I don't think this
is a good job for Duct Tape!!! ~Gary, '86 LXE Blue on Blue in Boca

It's just a 4mm flat head screw. The EZ-out won't help much because
it requires that you drill a hole in the old screw. It's a little
surprising that it would even strip since it's in plastic.
1) wet the screw down with a little WD-40 or equal and let it sit
for a bit
2) Using a sharp center-punch or small chisel, catch one edge of the
driver slot and rap it good with a hammer a couple of times. This
may require that you unbolt the reservoir and put it against
something rigid (like the
frame). I think you can do it without removing the reservoir
completely. Just unbolt it and lay it against something. It may take
an extra set of hands. ~Tracy

or you can do what I did. Take a rotary (Dremel) tool and carefully
turn the Phillips into a slotted screw. When I got it out, I
replaced it. Any decent hardware store will have this screw. ~Red

Anyone working on Jap bikes should invest in an inexpensive impact
driver set. It's a tool that you strike with a hammer. It comes with
different size Phillips bits. You twist the body of the tool in the
direction you want the screw to go, [clockwise or counter-clockwise]
Put the bit in the driver, set the bit in the screw and strike
firmly with a hammer. The "impact" puts great pressure on the screw
while turning. This eliminates stripped heads and problems later.
Jap screws are "soft in the heads" and strip out easily. I have
replaced all the Phillip head screws that I can easily get to with
stainless hex head cap screws. They almost never strip out. I hope
this helps. Thanks to all who are responsible for this board. It's a
lifesaver. ~Doug Woodin, Bunnell, Fl. 86-LX

Yep! Worth it's weight. A decent one will last forever, too. Mine's
about 25-30 yrs old & going strong. Often a light tap is all that's
needed, the pressure merely seats the bit deeper in the screw while
simultaneously turning it. Go easy, Doug's right that the screws are
soft, but usually the material they're threaded into is soft also!

I agree. I use mine often.  But note that whenever you remove one of
those stripy Phillips screws, replace it with a socket head cap
screw, so next time it is much easier to take apart and reassemble.
The screws that are on the reservoirs are ordinary 4mm, available at
the local hardware store. You can even find chrome screws in that
size if you want to add some visual jazz.  Get yourself a set of
those nifty hex head T handles too. It will be your best
tool investment since you bought Tracy's Cade CD. ~spike


I have removed the rear wheel and have the secondary off of the bike
now. I did only loosen the first bolt and then went to the second
one and broke and same with the third. I have the one stud out that
was in the block. The other one seems to be mated to the other half
of the secondary casing. I appreciate the help; I am diligently
working on this. Just a little more time consuming than I first
anticipated. I am replacing the seals now and am wondering if there
is anything I should know. I remember reading something about
greasing something and seals. I wonder if that is the one to the
back toward the final, do I have to put a film of grease on that
seal where it surrounds the splined tube? Again any help is
appreciated and any help that anyone foresees me getting into a
little further down the road. ~Kevin 86 LX 63K

If you read the sheet that came with the seal kit that I sent you,
it tells how the seals should be treated upon install. Use lots of
grease on the inside, a dab of sealer on the outside and lots of
care when reinstalling the rear seal and when putting the drive back
on the motor. Just as a bit of added info, I have found that a quick
flick with the ratchet is much better than a constant pull in terms
of breaking fasteners loose without breaking the fasteners. It takes
a little practice, but if you take out the slack and then give it a
quick snap it will pop the bolts loose and leave them unbroken. It's
not guaranteed, but is much easier on bolts. ~Tracy

I'll just add this to what Tracy had to say. If a longer bolt is
hard to remove and continues to give stiff resistance, don't keep
turning it out. The friction builds heat and adds to the probability
of it twisting off. Allow it to cool off and use penetrating oil to
ease the friction. Old bikes and old men, we get a little cranky now
and then. ~Poet Red

Yea Tracy, I read them after I posted the note. I just checked on
Suzuki bond 1207 at 80 bucks and the dealer and also discontinued.
Any Idea as to the best sealer to use on the gaskets and also on the
one bolt with the oil galley? And what else should I be aware of
before putting it all back together? ~kplitt2001

You can use "Yamabond" for about $6 a tube or Form-a-gasket 1 or 2
for about $4 a tube. The bolt with the oil galley (on the stator
cover above the I) gets the little black washer that came in the
kit. You can use blue Loctite in place of the Suzuki spec-ed stuff
for most of the bolts that need it. Installing the output seal in
the secondary and putting the drive back on the motor are the most
critical and is where some have messed up the respective seals. Use
lots of grease and care to install the output seal making sure that
the lip doesn't get folded back as you drive it in. I use a little
flat blade screwdriver or an o-ring pick and run it around the seal
where it goes over the shaft to make doubly sure that the lip is
around the shaft and not getting folded over. The same goes when you
put the drive back on. Leave the cast iron drive gear housing off
and guide the box onto the motor carefully with lots of grease on
the seal and the mating shaft. Look into the hole as the seal goes
over the shaft and make sure you don't fold the lip over. Several
have done that and it will leak engine oil into the gear case. Get a
couple of bolts started then put the cam-dog spring and drive dog on
and carefully put the drive gear housing in. Pull it in place with
the 10mm head bolts a little at a time making sure that the gears
are meshed. If you get too much resistance at the bolts, back off
and get it lined up better and try it again. I have seen burrs
raised on the gears from overzealous reinstall of the drive gear and
it makes for a noisy box. ~Tracy

I am currently looking for a center trunk rack for my Cavalcade LXE.
Does anyone have one? Tracy how about you? ~Jim Kneup, `86 LXE Tucson

Tracy makes some adaptors so you can mount a Gold Wing rack there.
That's the only possibility for new, unless you get lucky and find
one used. ~Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

I'm not able to make them at this time since my source ran out of
material and it's a real oddball and I haven't found any more yet.
If there comes a time that I get a turret made for my lathe, I can
make them again as I can use solid stock and drill through it. ~Tracy

Tracy, I noticed my left rear shock is wet looking around the bottom
part of the rubber. Can the average Joe replace them with air
shocks? Will I need some kind of spring compressor? I noticed some
of the guys used the progressive shocks, is that a verb or the name
of the company? I'm 250lbs. and my girl friend is 160+. (If anybody
prints this and shows around the next time we all get together the
death will be on your hands) which shocks would you recommend (air
vs. non-air)? ~George

Progressives are a brand name. They are air shocks like the
originals and are a bolt-on replacement. You don't need any sort of
spring compressor, just some ordinary hand tools and some time. Some
have replaced with spring type Progressives (non-air) and have been
happy. Personally, I like the airs. Some (including myself) have
cured a leaky seal with some spray cleaner and some grease and a
refill with some ATF (Dexron about 6-8 ounces). ~Tracy

Tracy, If air is getting to the shocks but they don't seem to pump
up are the seals gone or is the pressure bleeding back or both?  I
have never seen any evidence of the seals being gone (leaking fluid
of any kind around the shocks). ~Kevin

Well, if pressure is building, then the shocks have to rise (unless
the load is so high that it is too much for the available air
pressure and piston area). So, if pressure isn't building, is has to
be a leak or the compressor can't build enough pressure due to
internal leakage within the compressor (like past the piston ring
assuming it has one). Don't know if that helps. ~Tracy

Tracy, I isolated the shocks this past weekend and they will not
hold pressure.  Just what is the process to try to get them to
reseal? ~Mike

Here's what I did and it basically follows what others have done. It
helps to have the shocks off, but isn't absolutely necessary:

1) Pull the boot back so you can access the seal.
2) Using the end of a zip-tie or an o-ring pick, gently pull the
outer lip of
the seal away from the shaft and spray some brake cleaner in there.
your way around the shock to make sure that any gunk is flushed out.
3) Do the same thing again but this time put some grease in the
groove behind the outer lip.

You will need to make sure that there is enough oil in the shocks.
Unless you empty them, there isn't a good way to determine how much
is in there. The refill capacity is 6-8 ounces. Dexron ATF works
fine for that or you can use some fork oil. Will that stop them from
leaking? Dunno. But it has worked for some. ~Tracy

Tracy, one my winter projects is to replace the brake pads, both
front and rear. I had new pads on the rear installed last summer.
But those things squeal so bad I'm embarrassed when I ride thru
town. I need to replace the front pads at least.  Is there a
preferred pad that anybody uses, especially one that does not scream
every time I use the brakes? ~Joe in AK

I use SBS ceramic on front without any noise. Put an EBC HH pad set
on rear and it squeals a little with light braking but has better
grip than one I took off (which squealed like a stuck pig). Early 86
didn't have puck of quieting material in the pistons so they are
more prone to noise. I suppose you could fill the cavities of the
pistons with some silicone to help some. You could also put in late
style pistons that have the quieting material in them. You can put
some silicone or brake quiet on the back of the pads to help damp
out noise but some pad materials (hard ones) are going to be noisy.

Tracy and group, I changed the plug on the secondary several hundred
miles ago. I had talked about noise with the gear but found it was
just wear in of new parts. However, now I have a different
problem...oil from the main is getting into the secondary. When I
did the plug I put in all new seals and gaskets. For about 1500
miles there was no change in the oil of the main and the secondary. 
It appears that it happens only during riding. I let it set for a
week and checked the secondary oil once a day and it remained the
same, however ride a tank of gas and the oil is going down in the
main and up in the secondary. To give you a sample of the change,
the second gear will go from the full mark to about 1 inch above the
mark during a three hundred ride. There is no sign of oil going any
other place, none on the floor or the underside of the bike. So here
is a question that I could not find in the past posting or the book.
Does the main build up pressure and is there a pressure vent on the
main? Presently looking at replacing the seal between the main and
secondary but would also like to know of any thing else that needs
to be check in the area that is not covered in the book! ~Mac, `86
LX, Fallon, NV

Nope. It's the seal. You peeled the lip back when you installed the
sec on the motor. You aren't the first one to do that. You have to
grease the piss out of things and guide the box on gingerly sans the
drive gear housing. Second time's a charm. ~Tracy

MAC: Replace the seal between the secondary and the main. But when
you do it this time, put a little grease on the metal pieces before
you assemble it. You crimped the seal when you assembled it. The
problem I had was the reverse. The secondary pumped into the main.
~Mike C. '86 LX

Tracy, Lately I have noticed a slight dripping of motor-oil directly
under the side stand. I suspect the seal at the gear-shift shaft.
It's not much, but it makes a mess while blowing around. It only
seems to leak when riding, not while parked. A few drops when on the
stand, then nothing until next ride. Any ideas?? Would some of that
stuff that can be added to motor oil to make seals stop leaking be
worth a try?? The stop-leak stuff worked on my truck, but I'm not so
sure what it would do to the clutch. I'm not really sure it's the
gear selector shaft seal, but it's the only one near where it's
dripping. Any ideas?? ~Doug Woodin.-86 LX.

Stop leaks are generally just seal swellers and while they may do
some good temporarily you might want to actually find the source of
the leak and fix it. If it's indeed motor oil, it might be coming
from the stator wire grommet or the shifter shaft seal. If it's 90W,
it's coming from the secondary and could be one of several things
but is probably the rear seal or one of the o-rings on the drive
gear housing or the plug in the drive gear housing or the plug in
the driven gear. ~ At any rate, if it's 90W please check the
secondary level often. ~Tracy

Tracy, I posted a message last week about oil dripping down the side
stand when parked. It's definitely motor oil. I check the oil in the
secondary drive every weekend. I have the "dip-stick" made from the
plans on the cavalcade site. The level in the secondary has not
moved. I have sprayed the whole area with Gunk degreaser, rinsed and
blow dried. I will look for the origin of the oil. I may have
to "dust" the area with baby powder and look for the wet spot. This
leak started right after I changed oil and replaced with Mobile-1. I
wonder if I changed back to Castrol 15-30, would the leak stop? Has
anyone noticed leaks starting after changing to synthetic oils?? 
~Doug Woodin. Bunnell, FL, 1986-LX.

The likely culprit is the shifter shaft seal or one of the grommets
for the stator wires or ignition pickup wires. It might also be
coming from the stator cover bolt just above the letter I on the
cover. That bolt intersects an oil galley and is suppose to have a
rubber/metal seal on that bolt only. ~ If the synthetic leaks where
the dino did not, I wouldn't necessarily assume that the oil is
thinner and therefore is leaking because of that. It might be that
the seal was already FUBAR and possibly a better detergent action of
the new oil cleaned out some crud that was making it seal. ~
Personally, I would prefer the better lubrication of the synthetic
and fix the leak. ~Tracy

I posted a message last week about oil dripping down the side stand
when parked. It's definitely motor oil. I check the oil in the
secondary drive every weekend. I have the "dip-stick" made from the
plans on the cavalcade site. The level in the secondary has not
moved. I have sprayed the whole area with Gunk degreaser, rinsed and
blow dried. I will look for the origin of the oil. I may have
to "dust" the area with baby powder and look for the wet spot. This
leak started right after I changed oil and replaced with Mobile-1. I
wonder if I changed back to Castrol 15-30, would the leak stop? Has
anyone noticed leaks starting after changing to synthetic oils??
~Doug Woodin. Bunnell, FL, 1986-LX.

The likely culprit is the shifter shaft seal or one of the grommets
for the stator wires or ignition pickup wires. It might also be
coming from the stator cover bolt just above the letter I on the
cover. That bolt intersects an oil galley and is suppose to have a
rubber/metal seal on that bolt only. ~ If the synthetic leaks where
the dino did not, I wouldn't necessarily assume that the oil is
thinner and therefore is leaking because of that. It might be that
the seal was already FUBAR and possibly a better detergent action of
the new oil cleaned out some crud that was making it seal. ~
Personally, I would prefer the better lubrication of the synthetic
and fix the leak. ~Tracy

Bob, I'm interested in how and what material you used to set up the
new 4-fuse box. Do you have any pictures or instructions on how it
was done?  What effect does the new box have on the charging system?
~Mac 86 LX, Fallon, NV

We just bought a $5 - 4 banger fuse block at AutoZone. Put it in the
left side pocket and ran a wire directly to the positive post with a
30 amp fuse to protect the length of wire from the battery to the
fuse block (in the event of a short). The only reason we put it in
was because he had some accessories that were previously attached
the battery with individual fuse holders and it was quite a mess. It
does not affect the system in any way. Just gives some additional
fuses for the extra circuits and cleaned up the wiring. ~Tracy

I have an `86 LX. The auto level does not seem to working when I
turn it on it will not stay on I hear the pump but it will not pump
up the shocks. Now all the air is out and my center stand drags and
going into the driveway it drags going over the small bump. The
compressor will pump up the seat so I know the compressor is fine.
Is there any way to check it without the fancy machine that they
have in the manual? When I turn it on the switch lights up but will
not stay running. ~Kevin

There are numerous checks you can do without the fancy machine. The
level sensor and relays and such can be tested per the manual with
just a meter. ~Tracy

A few hopefully quick questions on front forks - I've read through
the archives already & haven't found this.

I finally made time to do a fluid change on our trike. It's had a
harsh ride, and I've been concerned that it sits much lower than our
bike in the front. Measuring from bottom of triple to top of lower
tube, the bike is 4", while the trike is 3" even. I don't think the
added weight of the trike kit is much of a factor since it's almost
all rear axle weight and the added body is all in back and is offset
by loss of saddlebags, thus the front end load should be close to
the same. ~ I pulled the trike apart today for fluid change with
forks still on bike. Figured I'd try this first. Got the springs out
& found that someone's been there before & left a couple things
worth questioning.  ~ Springs were installed with tight coils down
on L fork, but up on R fork. Upper spacers are mismatched material
but equal length of 2". There's very little fluid in either tube,
but roughly equal amounts. Since they were the same & there's no
sign of leakage, I suspect that whoever mis-installed the springs
just didn't put fluid in. Wouldn't be the first thing I've found!
Pumped out with forks compressed, the total barely covers the bottom
of a drain pan. ~ Springs are equal and measure 18", well above the
17.9" minimum stated in the manual. So... What is correct length of
stock spacers? I couldn't find it in manual.  ~ How would I know if
these are stock springs or Progressive's? If they're Progressive's,
the spacer's too short, right? ~ If stock, can the springs be weak
yet remain within length tolerances? ~ I know it would cause very
poor dampening, but would lack of fluid alone cause the ride height
variance? ~Ed

> Springs were installed with tight coils down on L fork, but up on
R fork.>>

Don't really matter.

>..> What is correct length of stock spacers? Couldn't find > it in

2" sounds right.

> How would I know if these are stock springs or Progressive's? If
they're Progressive's, the spacer's too short, right?>>

Stock springs stick out of the top of forks an inch or better.
Progressives are nearly flush or slightly above.

> If stock, can the springs be weak yet remain within length

The stock springs were a little on the wimpy side to begin with.

> I know it would cause very poor dampening, but would lack of fluid
alone cause the ride height variance?>>

Yes. The air above the fluid acts a spring as well. Too little fluid
means too little pressure rise. 14 ounces into each empty fork with
stock springs. ~Tracy
OK, makes sense - and these were WAY low! ~ Would you recommend
simply flush & refill, or should I assume these are Progressive
springs, make longer spacers & fill per their specs? Thanks again,

I was looking at the Cavalcade .com web site; there is an article
about making your own electric riding gear. Does anyone know where
to get the 30 gage Teflon wire used for making electric riding gear?
These guys (Pelican wire) are not the cheapest for small quantities
but they have a big selection. I found another vendor a long time
ago that was much less $ and you could buy it buy the foot but I
can't find them again now. I didn't save the e-mail that I sent out
to someone with this same question. ~Tracy

Tracy, Can you recommend a decent intercom set for the Cade that
isn't too expensive?  Also, can you explain the term "pre-load" for
us shade tree mechanics? ~Russ 86 LX

Sierra has some intercoms starting at about $110.

Preload, in the sense that I think you are using it, is the amount
of initial drag that's put onto tapered roller bearings (such as
those in the secondary drive). Tapered bearings are always installed
with some drag so that the rollers are assured contact with the
inner and outer races and to prevent any movement. As the
bearings/races wear, the preload can diminish and they become more
free-spinning which can lead to movement of what is riding on or in
the bearings and can also cause the rollers to slip on the races. ~
Tapered bearings are capable of carrying rather large axial and
thrust loads and will keep that load affixed better than standard
ball bearings since there is a large load carrying surface and it is
angled. You can also preload ball bearings (generally in pairs) but
the point of contact between the ball and the race is very small in
the thrust direction and they aren't very good about carrying thrust
loads. Axial loads for ball bearings are fine since the balls have a
much larger contact patch in that direction. I hope I answered the
question without too much of a dissertation. ~Tracy

My name is Monte Miller; I live in the northern KY area and just
bought a 1986 Cavalcade. I worked on it for someone then he decided
to sell it to me. When I worked on it, the bike had only 76 miles.
It was brought new in 86 as a Christmas present and the poor fellow
dropped it and never rode it again. He has passed away and his wife
decided to sell it. I have rebuilt the carb's and had to clean out
the gas tank. It had the old gas in it. It now smokes a bit.... 
think it could be the valve seals which I plan to replace as soon as
my CD manual comes in. I would like anyone's help in letting me know
if there is something else I should try before I do that. Also I'm
looking for the passenger arm rest. The seat is tan in color. Thanks
and thank you for letting me join your group. Oh...the bike only has
582 original miles! ~Monte Miller

I might suggest that the rings aren't seated yet. With just 600
miles you haven't even broken in the engine. You need to be doing
standard engine break-in procedures to help the rings get seated.

If you're not familiar with ring seating, it is really quite simple.
Don't run the motor at a steady speed for long periods. You need to
be constantly changing speed for awhile yet. Also, you need to
accelerate pretty hard and then back off numerous times in a row.
You need to do that for at least several hundred more miles without
setting the cruise at a fixed speed and cruising. I'm not saying
that you need to be doing it constantly during that time but
acceleration/deceleration are what helps seat the rings. There are
several things taking place when you do that.

During acceleration the oil is washed off the cylinder walls by the
extra fuel and that allows the rings to scuff against the hone marks
without lubrication in the way. This will help the rings seat as
they wear to fit the cylinder. This also puts additional heat into
the piston and rings which is part of the process of making them fit
together with the cylinders. During this process, the parts are
being stress relieved and will move around a bit to conform to each
other. As an example, if you were to take a brand new piston and sit
it in an oven and bake it at say 400 F for awhile, after it cooled,
you would find that it was anything but round and in spec with its
original machined dimensions. This is normal as the process of
machining removes material and induces stress in the part as the
other un-machined parts of the same part try to deal with the loss
of material. These stresses are released when the item is heated to
a critical temperature. It's the same with steel parts except the
critical temp is higher. Even if the critical temp isn't reached,
over time the different parts will move around a bit to mate with
each other.

Also, the Cade probably uses chrome-faced rings which are a little
hard to seat anyway. They use chrome since it lasts a very long
time. Molly faced rings seat really fast but they also wear out a
lot faster. With as many Cades around that have 100K + on the ticker
(mine included), the ring choice by Suzuki was the right one.

By accelerating and decelerating numerous times in a row you are
heating and cooling the parts and this process is essential to a
good break-in. You don't want to overdo it nor do you want to
overheat the motor, but you need about another 1500 miles of not
running the motor at one speed for long periods (say more than 5
miles at a time). If the smoking doesn't clear up by then you might
conclude that it has another problem and may seek to look into it.

There is one other thing that might be causing it but this one is a
long shot. You might want to check the oil pressure with the motor
warmed up. If it won't hold 40 psi at idle, then there is a
possibility that a restriction jet was left out during manufacture.
I had a motor like that and the restrictor is what feeds the top end
and without it there is way too much oil going to the head and the
valve stem seals will be overwhelmed by a flood of oil and that can
lead to smoking. Since installing the restrictor, the oil pressure
is right where it should be and smoking has subsided.
WARNING: though, motor out and case split for that project. ~Tracy
Monte, If it is the rings, as Tracy has suggested, you need the run
the bike hard to seat the rings. Find the nearest mountain where you
can run the bike under full throttle for a few minutes (not all at
once) preferably in a higher gear and at high rpm. Cylinder pressure
needs to be high because its cylinder pressure that pushes the rings
against the cylinder walls. Do not let it get hot. Try that and see
if the smoking doesn't clear up.

Oh there is the thing about acid in the oil. I'm sure you changed
the oil when you did the carbs and other stuff, but just in case you
did not you should. No synthetic oil or blends for the first few
thousand miles. The 1400's are a solid motor. I would hate to see
you have to pull it apart with such low miles. Good luck, welcome to
the club and ride safe. ~Mark

I just want to add a cautionary statement. Don't get it near redline
during this process. Do it in stages and let it cool off (by riding
not stopping) between sprints. Full throttle blasts too close to
redline in the early stages are not good for some internal parts. We
still have to be concerned with main and rod bearings (they are a
little tight initially) and you don't want to cause any damage
there. The hill is fine, the full throttle is fine but stay away
from redline for a bit yet. ~Tracy


Bunnell (S.E.), Florida
I am again listing my 86-Cade LX for sale.  So far, no one has
replied. If I don't sell it by the end of January, it will be parted
out and sold on E-bay, which would be a shame because this Cade is
really like new. No BS! I don't have time to ride it and it's in the
way of other projects in the barn. PLEASE, help get this bike sold.
Ask your friends, the ones that admire your Cade. Have you got room
for another one?? There are less and less Cades on the road each
year. Help save a nice one from the e-bay parts list. ~Doug Woodin
Malvern, Ohio
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LX, 26,000 miles, cruise control, AM/FM, CB,
digital dash, clock, shift indicator in dash, loaded bike, carbs
just rebuilt, runs great! $2200.00 email for pics.
We are in NE Ohio, 20 minutes south of Canton.  I work days and
usually get home around 5 PM Eastern, anytime after that would be
fine. 330-863-1222
I have a 1986 cavalcade 1400 LXE. I am looking to sell. It has
17,000 original miles on it, which I put on 12,000. I am the second
owner of this bike. It is in excellent condition. There is a
driver's back rest, extra chrome, and lights. The original cover is
included. The color is 2 tone Blue. AM/FM cassette player, air
cushion seats. I could email pictures if some one is interested.  
If you would know any one interested in buying this bike please
forward this email to them. My email address is  
or by phone 920-596-2212 ~Bruce Glocke

I've had a little change of plan and am going to sell my very
cherry '86 LXE with 12, 758 miles on the clock at this writing. Has
all the stock stuff, plus trailer hitch, driver back rest, correct
trunk rack, Wind Wings, CB Radio in a box to be reinstalled, new, in
the box Progressive rear shocks with hose kit, new to be installed
Precision Plastics tall , wide windshield with vent. The carbs have
been cleaned but need to be balanced. The AM/ FM needs to be
repaired. Tape deck works OK. It has Gold Wing 1800 sealed battery
and 1800 horns. Sounds just like my Buick. Dunlop 491's are good and
rear is near new. All the fluids have been changed and there are no
leaks or noises. The color is what I call "metallic root beer
burgundy" with rose beige secondary color. No rips or tears, or sun
damage. This bike has lived a charmed life indoors when not on the
road.  It's not a giveaway but about as new as they get.  ~Ed

Hello guys, I use to be on the list about a year ago but dropped off
after a stay in the hospital.  I really don't want to sell my Cade
but my legs say stay off of it. This is no average Cade; it's a 1988
with only 6,800 miles on it. It still has the cloths bags in the
trunk and saddle bags with the factory plastic still on them.  I put
new tires on it about a year ago, a picture of it use to be on the
picture section on the Cade pictures with my grandson setting on the
back.  The price is 55 hundred; if anyone is interested I can send
pictures by e-mail. I also have a nice chromed up T-bucket with 350
Chevy I'm going to sell for 15k, I'm 64 and getting out of the toys
~Richie. Email:

Lubbock, Texas
I must sell my bike to help put my son thru college. I have listed
it on eBay, if I can answer any questions or send pictures just let
me know my email is . I have owned the bike for three
years, runs great. I have installed most of the new updates on the
bike. The former owner put on every piece of add on chrome he could
find, I had the seats reupholstered 1-1/2 years ago. I keep it
inside at all times even have a genuine cavalcade silver cover I
bought off eBay last year I will sell if the price is right. I'm
gonna miss you guys.

San Diego, California
1987 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE. I am the second owner of this bike. The
first owner bought it new and maintained it with a passion. Rick
Gervasi at did all the maintenance
and repairs on the bike since new. He was the service manager at the
Suzuki dealership when it was sold and he did the delivery prep then
opened his own shop and the former owner continued to have Rick care
for it there.

The former owner had a philosophy that if the bike needed it or it
would improve it the bike got it period. This is one of the nicest
Cavalcades you'll ever see. It has virtually everything.  If you
know anything about Cavalcades you know 1987 was the sweet spot for
these bikes. Engine has been on full synthetic since the break-in
period was completed. The aux. gear case has the second generation
plug and second generation drive shaft with larger u-joints. Final
drive was rebuilt with new bearings and seals about a year ago. It
hadn't failed but when Rick was replacing the rear tire he noticed a
small leak on the inside and recommended it to the former owner and
it was done. Bike has Avon touring elites with ride-on sealant
installed. Deluxe chrome trim package on front forks. The fuel
system has always been run with marvel mystery oil and is in perfect
condition. Everything on the bike works. The stereo has the new
switches installed. Comes with full deluxe cover (small tear in
lower left seam) tank bag, gear bag made for trunk rack, two
matching helmets with intercom systems.

Note: the one helmet has the spring in the mike boom broken and may
be repairable. Bike has super brace on front fork with progressive
springs. Deluxe lighting package. Aux. Xenon driving lights. Saddle
bag guards, front cornering lamps with guards. CB radio, auto level,
air compressor with hose kit, air adjustable seats front and rear,
passenger controls for stereo, CB and intercom. Custom professional
pin stripping. Trunk rack.  GPS satellite navigation. Cigarette
lighter. Factory service manual and service manual on CD. All owner
manuals and soft sided luggage liners. Battery monitor. Hitch. Third
brake light. Windshield is flawless and in perfect condition. Bike
has baker dual pane air wings. No tears in the upholstery. Custom
after market grips. Markland driver back rest. Leg heaters. Turn
down pipes. Washable foam air cleaner. Bike runs flawlessly and
rides like a dream. There are a couple of cosmetic flaws that I want
to point out. First on the right side of the stereo and air cleaner
housing about where your knee rests there is a spot about the size
of a half dollar where brake fluid dripped on the paint and it
bubbled the paint some. It is not too noticeable and the paint still
has the original color. The right saddle bag has a scuff mark on the
side that shows a little but it is minor and doesn't really stand
out.  I have all maintenance and repair records for the bike since
it was new. I will e mail additional photos if requested. You may
call me at 760-765-3902 if you want to ask any questions that I
haven't covered here.

Medical bills forces sale. I have this bike advertised locally and
reserve the right to withdraw it from auction if I get a local buyer
before end of auction. Bike is in San Diego county CA and is to be
picked up with in San Diego county CA.  Buyer to make $500.00
deposit and pay balance with in ten days of close of auction. Bike
is sold as is.  Email: "ron" <>



Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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