February, 2005

Here is the February 2005 issue of the Cavalcade Owner's monthly
The 2005 tour for those of us in the East to start the weekend of
Sept 9, 10th, 11th, 12th, at Deals Gap. Then our ride will progress
north along the Blue Ridge, with side trips, ending 2nd weekend Sept
16, 17, 18, 19th near Front Royal Virginia. What's nice for those
who can't get time off, you can come any weekend or during the week.
Every day we'll have 4-5 hr rides to include food, shopping for the
ladies or some local attractions. For more information on lodging
and ride routes go to: 
Or contact, Larry Dilldine: 
September 12-16 are the dates for our West Coast Cade Raid in 2005.
We will tour Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park,
visit Cody and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. We will also feature evening
classes and hands-on workshops on Cavalcade maintenance and repair
and we'll host a Cavalcade Store where you can buy and sell
Cavalcade parts and items like we did last year at Branson.
Our lodging will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort at Island Park,
Idaho. We have reserved the entire resort for our Cade Raid. To
reserve your guest room, their telephone number is 208-558-9366,
email address is  and web site
In addition to the guest rooms, Sawtelle Resort has RV sites, tent
sites and a bunkhouse. The bunkhouse will be available for solo men
at a cost of $210 per person for the six nights we will be at the
Sawtelle Mountain Resort. The $210 rate equals $35 per night. If you
wish to take advantage of the bunkhouse lodging, you will need to
register and make payment in advance to me. A
$50 deposit will hold your reservation until August 15, 2005.
Payment in full will be due on that date. Please email me if you'd
like to book into the bunkhouse.
I am a Cade owner and a member of the Southern Cruisers, I thought
I'd put it out here for anyone that might be interested. The
Southern Cruisers is a family oriented riding club, not M.C.; we
have no set meetings, no dues, no
mandatory anything. It is a riding club made up of and for
individuals who share a love of the open road and friendship. It was
founded in Memphis, TN. in the late 1990's by two friends who wanted
to create a friendly riding atmosphere in which everyone, no matter
what they ride, could be as one. Thus, the Southern Cruisers was
born. It now has approx. 430 chapters internationally with 26,000
(+) members. Our one charity is the St. Jude's Children's Research
Hospital in Memphis, founded by Danny Thomas, and is the site for an
annual gathering of SCRC members to meet with and share with these
brave children with life threatening diseases. If anyone would be
interested in joining, please go to Southern Cruisers Riding Club
and follow the links from there to find the chapter nearest you. If
you have any questions, feel free to contact me at
    ~Ed Ritchison, 1st officer,
Crossroads Chapter#285, ~Waverly, TN   86 LXE
of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to  and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.
Hi Michael, Sorry to hear that you suffered a heart attack. The main
thing is that you survived and depending on your specialist
prognosis, you have a good few years ahead of you. The other main
thing is to stay positive and to listen to what your doctors tell
you.  It is not the end of the world or of you riding your
Cavalcade. Make sure that you exercise at least 30 minutes a day. 
By exercise I mean make your heart work to the point of just being
out of breath.  This will help your heart to make new blood vessels
to take in oxygen, so my specialist told me.

I suffered a heart attack on 21st May 2003, thought that I would
never ride again, but after over 12 months out of the saddle Ronnie,
short for Veronica, and I decided that it was time to try the Cade
to see if I was ok with the size and weight.  It took five ride outs
to get my confidence back to chuck the Cade around corners and
roundabouts. I do not take for granted that I will be able to do
everything that I used to do.  It is like learning to walk again but
YOU will get over it and every day your confidence will grow. All
the best and keep the rubber on the road. ~Dave, UK

Hello all, I'm in the need of new grips and I just can't seem to
find any.  I have searched high and low on the internet but all I
find are 7/8 grips, or the occasional 1" grips that don't appeal to
me. I'm looking for foam grips. Any help would be appreciated.  ~Joe
in AK '88LX

Joe, Check Dennis Kirk Grab-On Deluxe Road Grips.  Unscrew the
chrome cap on the end, drill it out to go over the bars, put the
bars weights back on, and you should be set.  I found out you can
also get replacement foam for these
also. ~KennG

Joe, I have found some that work for me. I got mine from I bought both the classic (17-56) and
comfort (17-58) styles. I have the comfort on now and I do like them
but they were very difficult to put on and I now have a rip in the
throttle grip. I will be replacing this one with the classic. They
feel great but I worry about durability. At $7 and $8 dollars a set
I feel they are a good buy. ~Bob Morse, Clermont, FL

What does the Tracy Brace do? It seems my Cade is hard to keep
tracking in a straight line. It always wants to swerve a little. I
always thought it was due to the weight of the bike. Am I correct or
do your Cades dance a little in the lanes? ~Brad, Houston, TX 1987

Brad, The trouble you've indicated sounds like the rear swing arm
may need adjusting, if indeed the bike wonders and refuses to stay
in a straight line. Now if you're on grooved highway all the time,
the trouble may be your tires. If there's a wobble in the front
forks, then it might be a loose triple tree or the need for a Tracy
brace. There are a number of issues that you may wish to explore.
When asking for assistance, please provide as much information as
possible. One of the old brains in the group will be more than
elated to assist. ~Micky

The brace replaces the rather flimsy one Big S put on it. It helps
to eliminate wobbles. If you are having trouble on even pavement, it
may be other problems. Wheel bearings, tweaked forks, wrong pressure
in the front tire, etc. ~Red

Several issues can contribute to stability problems. Tires play a
big role. Steering head bearing condition and tightness are also
factors, as are swing-arm bearing condition and tightness. And, the
fork brace has some to do with it. However, if you have other
conditions that are causing a problem a brace will not fix it. A
Tracy brace is simply a replacement for the stock fork brace that's
machined from a solid billet of aluminum and it 1000 times stiffer
and stronger than the OEM brace. It will improve feel and cornering
handling but, again, is not a cure-all for other problems. ~Tracy

Multiple Application Horn kit. Several mounting abilities and
locations to fit most bikes, namely Yamaha V-Stars, Road Stars, and
any other bikes with frame mounting ability or engine guards. These
horns give a loud warning blast of 125 decibels, all chrome finish.
These I installed on the engine guard on the right side of my
motorcycle. I know those who were at Branson saw and maybe even
heard them operate. Well worth the money and time to install. ~Micky

I know that this question probably gets asked every year at this
time but I am going to ask it again. Can anyone out there in Cade
land give me their input on using a battery tender on the Cade? Is
it a good thing to use or, do not use it in chance it may do harm to
the battery/starter/ regulator etc. also, I do have what they call a
mini battery tender. If I do use one, do I want to use this one or
purchase a regular full size tender? When using a tender, do I just
hook it up, plug it in and forget about it till spring or what??? ---
Joe in pa.

Joe, Tenders are fine with the following exceptions.

1) If it is a "float" type (they are not suppose to overcharge) then
you can plug it in a forget it.

2) If it's a trickle charger then don't run it more than an hour a
day or so. Some connect it to a timer or to the light bulb socket in
the garage door opener (with an adapter to keep the bulb). That way
it will run 5 minutes every time the door opens or closes. You're
just trying to offset the natural discharge.

A lot of people get really anal and think that putting a battery on
a charger every minute when it's not in use is required for maximum
battery life. However, lead acid batteries don't mind be taken down
a bit and then recharged. As long as the voltage isn't allowed to
drop too far they are perfectly happy with some discharge-recharge.

Joe, I've used one called Battery Tender Jr. for years without a
problem. I plug it in a forget it. Just one thing to watch for if
you have a regular lead acid battery, check the water level before
hooking it up and again a couple of month later (winter's are long
in New England). ~Al from Mass

I have a battery tender. Floating type. I just drive my cavalcade
every week. I use the tender for my hot rod.  The weather in Tucson
is why I moved here. It's motorcycle weather 12 months a year.
~Jim, `86 LXE, Tucson AZ

My '86 with 36 k miles had battery replaced 2 years ago. I
maintained it on a charger while stored during the winters.  By the
end of this past summer the battery had died.  Anybody have ideas
regarding battery, regulator, starter, etc?  The battery is too
expensive to keep replacing every 4 k miles.  Thanks ~ smarcus53_1999
Maintaining a battery on a standard trickle charger (1-2 amps max)
should only be done a short time each day (15 minutes to maybe an
hour). Much longer than that is bad for the battery and can
substantially shorten its life. Also need to check the charging
system output. It should be 14 volts+ when held at about 2K RPM.
Riding it more will also make the battery last longer. 2K/year just
simply isn't enough. ~Tracy

You say you keep it on a charger. Trickle charger? Battery tender?
Which kind? A trickle charger will be too much for your battery if
left on constantly. Tenders are better because they only charge as
needed. Other thing is, two years and only 4 k miles? I think it
died from loneliness. The poor thing. ~Red

Does anyone know the maximum pressure output of the air pump? Also
what is the most likely culprit when air is not holding in the rear
shocks after leveling has stopped? The pump, air lines, shocks or
maybe the o-rings? Does it normally take a long time to go to level
with the pump running with one rider up? ~Rick

Long pump-up times are almost always related to the first 2 fittings
off the compressor. They get rusted up and blocked. Clean and re-"o-
ring" them for faster pump-up. Leaky shocks are almost always the
main shock seal. Some have had luck by cleaning the seal and getting
some grease in there. You may also have to refill the shocks with
tranny fluid as if they're leaking air that may have already leaked
out the fluid. ~Tracy

Just a thought to this, does anyone use or thought of using these
new satellite systems like XM radio and Sirius to supply music/news
to the Cades? ~Joe in AK, '88LX

Joe, I have a used Delphis satellite receiver for almost a full
year. I use a cassette adapter for the input device. It works great
except for the tunnels on the way to S.C.I still have all the
channels set to local radio stations for in town riding but I lean
towards the receiver all the time now. Spoiled I guess. The only
thing to worry about is the weather the head is not water proof.
This year I have a leather pouch to protect the head. ~ Brandon
This information might have been offered before but I just found a
way for me to use a CD player on my Cade. All that is needed is an
FM transmitter that you plug into a CD player. I bought mine for
$19.88 at Wal-Mart. You set the transmitter to 1 of the 4 designated
FM frequencies where there is no station broadcasting. Then just
tune your radio to the frequency that you set and the music plays
through your on-board system.

It is so nice to play CD's
1.    You don't have to worry about the tapes unwinding from the
vibrations of the bike while they are in storage.
2.    Tapes are on the way out.

The only thing I need to find out now is how to record my old
cassette tapes onto discs. ~Dick Carter,  Bay City, Texas, '86 LX 
BR/BR  "Goober"

Joe, I used my XM skiff sat. receiver when I went to Branson this
year and it worked great and I just had the antenna sitting on the
dash! I also used the fm modulator from XM and it worked well, I
only had to change the frequency a couple of times to get away from
radio station interference.  It was a quick rigging to put it on and
I used my old bar-buoy beverage holder bracket to mount the cradle
for the receiver.  As far as water-proofing goes, I used a Wal-Mart
plastic bag to keep water out.  I was thinking about an mp3 player
or CD changer but that is all forgotten now! XM is the way for me! 
You may need to check on sat radios up in Alaska as I thought I saw
something about it not being available in Alaska and Hawaii but I
may be wrong. ~Bruce Renick, SW KS

I have just bled the front brakes and the easiest way I have found
is to get a large syringe the type they use in hospitals. And some
small bore tubing and a one way valve you can buy in a shop that
sells aquariums and fish tank, I think it is an air pump one way
valve you can also buy the right size clear plastic tube there as
well. Start with the left side caliper .Get a spare bleed nipple cut
3 eights of inch off so it screws tight to the caliper and because
it does not reach the bottom of the hole in the caliper  the brake
fluid will flow through .Keep the reservoir topped up and attach a
piece of tube to the nipple, attach the one way valve to the tube
attach another piece of tube to the other side of the one way valve
then to the syringe, suck the fluid downhill from the reservoir to
the caliper .keep emptying the brake fluid out of the syringe in to
your dot4  brake fluid can also .make sure the reservoir never gets
empty enough to suck air in to the system. You will lose only a
little fluid this way .It might take a little time to get most of
the air bubbles out when it is nearly free of bubbles in the tubing
take off the pipe and replace with a standard bleed nipple,
tighten .then bleed as normal with the brake lever, crack open the
banjo on the brake lever, bleed that first .Do the same with the
clutch side too. It took me 10 minutes .Hope this helps next time
you service your brakes or clutch. Cheers, ~Glen Kemp, England,
black on gold

Hi All, My Cade arrived from NJ late November and is finally back on
the road with the certification and registration process completed
Friday. I had to do major work on the carbs after all the rust from
the tank took its toll.  The fork sliders need replacing or re
chroming due to rust pitting at the top of the stroke the pits are
just low enough to damage the fork seals. I guess rusty tanks and
pitted forks is what you get if leave a Cade unused for years.  Any
way I am up and running with the replacement tank from Jerry and
Dwaine and the spare forks from one of the NZ wrecks. I am looking
forward to great riding over the next few months. Over the New Year
period we had the pleasure of Virgil and Ramona Flaherty's company
for 4 days. We took a little 1000 mile road trip around the South
Island. They experienced some of the spectacular scenery made famous
by the Lord of the Rings and fished some of our streams and lakes.
The scenery was great the weather was kind but the fish weren't I
have uploaded a picture of the Cade packed and ready for export.
~Murray, New Zealand, `86LXE Blue on Blue

If any of the group happens to sell a Cade that is destined for
export here are a few tips when it comes to crating.

1:  Go to your local Harley dealer and buy a shipping skid for the
full dresser. Make sure you get the hoops.  Cost $50. 

2:  The Cade is 6 inches longer than the Harley so the front wheel
needs to be removed. The skid has all the tie-down points you need.

3:  from your local building depot you will need 4 8 x4 sheets of
1/4 tempered hardboard and around 200 self tapping screws. Dry wall
screws work fine and 5 8ft sticks of 2x2.

Run the Cade onto the skid and remove the front wheel and mudguard.
Make sure you have the bike positioned correctly as you only have
around an inch to spare. Place the wheel under the forks with some
timber between the forks and the wheel.  Using some standard tie
downs secure the bike to the skid. Remove the screen, mirrors and
unscrew the rear seat backrest and lay it over the seat and tie
down. Wrap the screen in bubble wrap. Install the metal skid hoops.
From there it is a simple matter of building the sides top and ends
making sure the screen mirrors and mudguard are secured to the bike
before you close it in.

Crating a Cade using the Harley skid can reduce the shipping cost
considerably it keeps the size down to the barest minimum. As
shippers usually charge by volume, this is the smallest you can get
a Cade without completely dismantling the bike. The total cost of
crating the Cade was around $120 and around 3-5 hours depending how
energetic you are. The only tools required are a power screw driver
and a hand saw plus the standard tools required
for removing the front wheel.

To have had the Cade crated commercially the cost can be a dear as
$700 the cheapest price for Steve's Cade was around $400 and the
shipping cost was around $500 more than mine just because of the
crate size. So when is comes to shipping small is best. I see by the
weather reports you guys are having a little bit of snow and it is
just a touch cold -30 in Maine  We here in the nice worm South are
enjoying temperatures of around 80 We are enjoying
BBQ's and bike riding. Keep the garages heated and the batteries
charged never fare spring is coming. ~Murray, New Zealand, `86 LXE


As some of you may be aware, Suzuki has decided to obsolete the main
output bearing for the transmission shaft that drives the secondary
drive (09267-30008). This is a fairly major problem since, as these
bikes get more miles on them, I would expect more and more of these
bearings to wear out. And, once it's gone south, that's it for the
motor as you cannot continue to run on a bearing that's toast.

However, I may have found a solution. There is a similar bearing
that is available from industrial supply houses that is the same OD
and same ID but is slightly shorter (4.2mm). It has a retention
groove in the outer diameter like the stocker also (and hopefully
it's in the right location). However, it does lack the anti-rotation
pin of the OEM unit. I have ordered one of these aftermarket
bearings and will be testing it soon to see what I can do to make it
fit and function like the original (I may have to make a spacer and
will need to drill a hole for the anti-rotation pin probably with a
diamond bit or on an EDM machine). I have a bike in here right now
that needs a bearing so the timing is good. I will report back when
I have it figured out. ~Tracy

Good work Tracy, thanks bud! One of the things that has worried me a
little about the VIN list is that some general types of failures may
have never been reported.  If a failure was severe enough that the
bike was parted out, something that wiped out a motor and
transmission for instance, the owner might never have been on
Cavalcade_USA and we never woulda heard of it.  The main output
bearing hasn't been reported as a failure to my recollection, but if
it had failed, perhaps the owner would choose to part out the bike
instead of repairing.  Either that or the main output bearing is
inherently sturdy.  If that is the case, no one has ordered one, so
they discontinued. 
Those of you who have had motorcycle engines apart down to the
crankshaft and transmission bearings know that it is Suzuki's modus
op that the running gear is built stout.  Japanese bikes are
generally like this, but Suzuki is the poster child for rugged
bottom ends and transmissions.  I hope that is why we don't see
those failures showing up on the VIN list.  It also makes Suzuki
popular with the hop-up crowd, because you can breathe on the engine
without reinforcing the bottom end. The Cavalcade's sister bike the
80s vintage Yamaha Venture has been largely sidelined because of
second gear failures and transmission thrust bearing failures.  I
don't think a Cade has ever had anything like this. 
Tracy, I'm glad you are chasing this.  I plan to still be riding
Cavalcades twenty years from now, so all efforts to keep them going
keeps me going. ~Spike

Spike, Since this bearing is outsourced anyway, there is no tooling
issue and the decision to obsolete was probably based on lack of
demand. ~Tracy

Can the handlebar posts be reversed (more setback) without removing
the fairing? Looking through the CD, it seems that to reverse the
handlebar mounts, there are hex nuts with cotter pins.   Can this be
done without major surgery? ~Vince

Yes. They can be turned with a big wrench without taking anything
apart. But be warned. Doing so does causes an increase in sloppiness
to the front end. ~Tracy

Hi Tracy, I could use two front rotors. However, I'm in no hurry for
two reasons.  Those being that I must work out some clutch problems
first that make the warpage I feel in the rotors a secondary
problem.  Also, my garage is unheated and during the Penna. winters
it's impossible to work out there.  The second reason is I bought a
2004 Gold Wing in August after a very uncomfortable two-up trip to
the Honda Hoot on a Voyager XII. The Cavalcade is my
secondary/project bike.

Maybe you can help with the clutch. My '86 Cavalcade LX (two-tone
brown) has almost 53,000 miles on it the original. It has the
original clutch springs and clutch plates in it. I hauled a Hannigan
Astro sidecar, one of early models that is as long as the Cavalcade,
for about 25,000 to 30,000 miles. The current major problem is that
when I start to move from a stop I noticed that the friction point
is almost to the bottom of the clutch lever travel with maybe 1/4"
before the clutch lever is at the end of its free travel. This
really messes me up with the Gold Wing which starts to engage the
friction point fairly close to the handlebar. I noticed the
Cavalcade's gas mileage is off about 6 mpg when I took it to
Americade in June.  The secondary plug and drive shaft have been
replaced so there shouldn't be any performance loss from those items
resulting from lubricant losses.

It would appear the least expensive fix would be to get the clutch
kit and change the Barnett springs, which would probably need to be
done anyway if I went in and changed the clutch plates.  I'm
thinking I need to buy a Vernier caliper to measure the plate
thickness. I don't want to get into replacing the springs then
having to go back later and replace the plates. Any input? Thanks in
advance. ~Joseph, 1986 Cavalcade LX/2004 Gold Wing

Joseph, if you don't want the rotors right away, I need to know that
because I can't hang onto them for more than a few days. If you want
to wait and order them later that's fine. I was just going to place
an order and it helps me if I can get more than one or two rotors as
it reduces the shipping cost to me.

Warped rotors are not common and what you feel may be something
completely different. There are other things that will cause a
pulsing lever. The shims behind the rotors being unequal in size,
bits of raised metal on the disc
face, a bent rotor, a pitted rotor. All of these are possible causes
of a pulsing lever and might make one think that the rotors are
warped. The easiest test is to put an indicator on the disc face and
spin the wheel. Some run-out is okay and expected but more than
maybe .010-.020 might be causing your pulsing.

As for the clutch, the springs will not help with your current
problem. The Cade clutch is self-adjusting within the allowable wear
of the plates. Each time you use it, the slave piston simply returns
as far as the pushrod allows it to and the fluid level in the master
cylinder takes care of the rest. As the plates wear, the piston
works itself further and further back into the bore until it will
eventually bottom out upon release. When that happens, it doesn't
self adjust anymore and will be out of whack. Also, more and more
fluid is forced back into the master cylinder. If there has been
some extensive plate wear and you haven't taken some fluid out of
the master cylinder, then that will cause problem as well. I suggest
that you change the fluid (DOT 4 only) if you haven't done so in
awhile. Will it help?

Dunno. But it's a cheap and easy try. You can put a new set of
springs on but I would bet that you have worn
plates, or a slave piston sticking in the bore, or a clogged vent in
the master cylinder cap or a combination of things.
A new set of friction plates is in the $100 range. ~Tracy

I was riding, today. My tail indicator kept coming on when braking
and stays on at low rpm's. I checked the tail lights. They seem to
be working fine. ~Rick

It's a common issue. Probably the connectors at the saddlebags need
a cleaning. A slight twist on the male terminal pins should help
make better contact. ~Tracy

I'm still thinking about having you do the front forks this winter
so glad to read the above post. I can't remember if you ever posted
anything on rebuilding the rear shocks by using Gold Wing cartridges
as we spoke about in Branson.  Is that going to be something you can
do?  Thanks. ~Kirby

I am also in the process of making front fork cartridge emulators
similar to the ones sold by RaceTech. The main difference will be
the price. Whereas the RT sells for about $150 a pair, I should be
able to offer them at about half of that. I can also make available
Progressive fork springs at a competitive price to most bike shops
(some online sources may still be less or the same but I will do the
best I can). The easiest explanation I can give about what emulators
do is that they take your single orifice fork and turn it into a
variable orifice fork (on the compression stroke only). This make a
big difference in how the fork handles square edges bumps (makes
them much less harsh), lessens front end dive during braking and
allows turnabilty for a riders weight. In order to install them, the
forks will have to be completely disassembled as the metering rod
needs to be drilled out. Again, this isn't for everyone but if you
need your forks rebuilt anyway, adding the emulators is a fairly
small additional cost. I have done about 15 sets of forks so if you
need yours done you can ship them off to me and I will do a standard
rebuild or I can also add fills and drains (makes changing fluid a
breeze), different springs and emulators. I can even strip and
polish them if you like. ~Tracy

Well my starting issues have cropped up again. I have the 'Tracy'
switch and it is working. The Solenoid is new. I checked the diode
that was bad 1st time and it is still good. One of the things I
notice is that when I try to prime the carbs I get no noise from the
pumps. A couple of times I put the bike in gear and rocked her, then
I pulled in the clutch and hit the button and she cranked. The
minute I let go of the button and tried again, Nothing! I was
thinking maybe the starter brushes but it bothers me that I cannot
get the pumps to prime the carbs. Are there any micro switches I
should know about? Thanks for all the help, ~Maury
You may need to clean the starter button contact. Also, it gets
dimpled from hitting the other contact. Be careful taking it out as
there are a springs and small parts. Take the contact and put it
face down on a flat surface (metal preferred) and using a flat ended
punch, take the dimple out of it. Clean it with some fine sandpaper
and clean the other half of the contact surface. Make sure that you
also clean the rim of the contact as it has to work through the
spring that's in there. Lightly sand any surface that has to make
electrical contact. Put a dab of silicone grease on things when you
put it back together. ~Tracy

Sorry about making it murky as St. Helens water. Let's see if I can
make it clearer:

1. With the key on, oil light and all electrical on, the starter
will not crank. Occasionally I will get one quick turn of the
starter and then nothing. The on/off switch is on and the clutch
pulled in. I can hear a 'click' behind the instrument cluster, which
I think is the solenoid. The lights also dim just a bit when I hit
the start button. Oh yeah, the battery is fully charged.

2. Usually after the bike has set for a bit, as in this case 9
weeks, I turn on the key, turn on the on/off switch and hit the
start button to get the fuel pumps to charge the carbs. Now when I
do that, nothing happens. Which when I happened to get the starting
motor to crank today for once there was no gas in the carbs, so the
motor would not run.

3. Back in the summer when I had this same issue, I un- dimpled the
copper button and lubed it. I think I am getting good contact there.

I drove Tracy crazy this summer because as he noted then, it is
really hard to diagnose a problem from across country. I was just
seeing if anyone knew if there might be something in common with the
starter not engaging and the fuels pumps not running. Probably just
two separate issues. Thanks again for any ideas. This is a rather
complex problem. ~Maury

Well, if you already dealt with the starter contact then I would
look to where the starter switch plugs into the harness. Since the
fuel pump will not run and it won't turn over the starter then it
must lie in the start button circuit as it does both. If it would
turn over but wouldn't prime, I would look to the fuel pump relay
but, since it won't do either then the most likely place to look is
in the start circuit. It could also be the ignition switch. If you
haven't checked it might be a place to look. Also, you need to check
the contacts of the plug-in at the fuse block and check the fuses
and make sure they are making contact as well. ~Tracy

For Suzuki Cavalcade 1400....1986 My CB keeps blowing fuses.  You
have any ideas? I found this site, while trying to locate a shop
manual for my bike.  It has a lot more info on it than some of the
others I've looked at. ~Ron

Ron, Blowing fuses is obviously a short, external or internal to the
CB. I would check the wiring going to the CB first to make sure it's
not just a wear-through against a metal part. If that's not it (you
unplug the power at the CB and it stops blowing fuses) then you will
need to send it off to Clarion or Sierra Electronics for repair
(both are listed
At Or, I have new CB head units for $300. I
would check the wiring first though to make sure it isn't something
simple. And, yes, you may have to take off some plastic to do that.

I need the pin-out for the headset leads, where the helmet extension
plugs to the cable from the radio, the female 5-pin connector. I
KNOW I've seen it before, but I just can't find it - searched the
CD, Tracy's help page,, and the archives. ~Ed

Go to It's on the CD-ROM in the
CB section. ~Tracy

Thanks, Tracy. You mean "CB Headset.pdf"? I saw that & it helps. It
shows the definition of the pins in order,
but it doesn't indicate a start point or location of the notch. Was
there another file I missed? Regardless, I think I found it in an
old post -
which says: "With the female connector facing you and the five
female pins in an arc, on top; from left to right they
are as follows:

1. mic. hot
2. mic. gnd
3. spkr. gnd.
4. left spkr.
5. right spkr."

Is that correct? I'm trying to figure out why the L speaker doesn't
work in my headset, and volume's low on the other side. The bike's
OK, Brenda's headset works fine in either location. Think it's the
extension cable, there's no continuity on pin 5. But 5 shows as the
R speaker? Just to make it easier to find one, is the pin
configuration the same as Gold Wing? ~Ed
The pins are numbered on the end of the connector. Also, look in the
radio manual as it shows all of the pin-outs. ~Tracy

I was looking at the air filter box the other day and noticed how
small the intake was coming in to the filter. It looks like some
magic could be found in letting more air into the air cleaner box.
Has any one tried to open up the intake on the Cade and did you have
to re-jet? I have done this on other motorcycles with very good
results. Also, I was looking at where the intake was located, just
over the gas cap. This area gets a lot of engine heat. Leaving the
locking cover on the gas cap open lets cooler air in. Has anyone
played with cold air induction on the Cade?  I get about 33-35 mpg
around town and don't want to make it worse. The bike is running so
well I hate to mess with it but if someone has already taken the
time to go through this with good results, or bad I would enjoy
hearing about it. ~Mark
Messing with the intake tract will have some effect, but not
necessarily a good one. The jetting is set up for the size of the
rubber intake device within the air cleaner cover. Taking that
device out or modifying the lid in any other way to allow more air
in will lead to a lean condition. If you adjust out the idle mixture
screws you can make up for it a little but the contribution of the
idle screws at speed is fairly small. And, even if you get more air
in, you gotta get it out. The exhaust then becomes the restriction
and all that potential extra air that might get in doesn't do much
because you can't get it out.

I took out the rubber baffle and put on a set of mufflers that had
been bored out (very little restriction) and the result was higher
gas mileage, hotter running and less power. I did not adjust the
idle screws when I did this so I was for sure leaning it out. After
reinstalling the baffle and stock mufflers the bike runs much
better. If I had the time to mess with it I could probably have
overcome the lean condition with a main jet change and some fiddling
with the slide needle position. However, at the end of the day, I
might have a little more power (gains will be small with the mild
state of compression and cams in the Cade) and gas mileage might
suffer (as you get more power you tend to be more aggressive with
the right wrist). The fact is it takes the same amount of power to
run the Cade down the road no matter what condition your
intake/exhaust tract is in and there is only so much horsepower in a
gallon of gas. Some report mileage as high as 40 but it depends a
lot on the type of riding and a lot of other factors.

I get 35-36 most of the time and I'm not that easy on the right
wrist. When the carbs are clean and tuned right it will run like a
striped ass ape and the engine will be happier because it's not
running lean. My suggestion is that unless you're ready to do it
right by modifying the intake and exhaust and jetting together,
leave it alone. If the carbs have never been rebuilt take the time
to do it. Tank the carbs to ensure clean passages and replace all of
the rubber seals and o-rings (and any pin-holed diaphragms). Synch
them and you might be surprised at how much better it runs. ~Tracy

Hi all.  Since it seems like everybody else is doing secondary work
this winter, I might as well chime in too and ask my questions.  I
have a leak by the side stand and I can't tell exactly where it's
coming from only I assume it's from the back of the secondary gear
case.  It does smell like gear lube.  Also I have a slight leak
where the driveshaft goes into the final drive.  I'm planning on
replacing seals and so far this is what I think I need.  If anyone
has anymore tips or suggestions, by all means let me know.

This is from Tracy's CD: Front Seal, Page 18. Part #09283-29004
reference #19.

Rear Seals, Pages 19 & 20  Parts ?????-47001  (Can't read the
beginning numbers but it's reference #9)  and seal #09283-30026
reference #37. Do I need anything else to stop the leaks?  ~Rick

Rick, I can make this real simple for you. Everything that you need
to RR the secondary drive is available as a kit that I sell. It has
the OEM seals and gaskets (and there are more than you think that
are exposed when you take the drive off) to do the job for $56.
Also, I have the seals you need for the final drive (I bought a set
thinking I needed them for a bike I have in here and it turns out
that I won't be doing anything with the final drive). And, the leak
at the final may be the same lube that's coming from the secondary
and running down the driveshaft tube.

Also, while you have the secondary off, you really should install
the "plug" that I make. It replaces the stock rubber/steel plug in
the secondary driven gear with a precision machined aluminum press-
fit plug that resolves the problem of the factory plug deciding to
fall out and leak gear oil out the back of the drive.

These items and more can be bought online at
I try to keep 4 or 5 sets of seals/gaskets in rotation and even if
I'm out I can usually ship them in a week or so. If you haven't read
the saga of the secondary drive issue, you might take a few minutes
to do so at ~Tracy

Thanks Tracy, I think I will finally order the plug now too.  I've
been putting it off and just checking the secondary fluid every 2 to
300 miles just to be on the safe side and it's always full.  That's
what puzzled me even more about the leak I have by the side stand
because every once in a while there's a pretty decent sized puddle
under the bike.  Anyway, thanks and I'll order the kits.  You made
this way too easy.  Now all I need to know is if the kit will
install itself while I sit on the couch and watch football and drink
beer.  Thanks again. ~Rick

You could be getting some engine oil transfer into the drive. That's
another seal that goes bye-bye that's in the kit to be replaced when
you have the drive off. Make sure that when you have the drive off
that you check for play in the output shaft of the motor. It should
be pretty solid. Also, when you get the secondary drive off, look
for metal chips on the motor side of the seal between the secondary
and the motor. A little pile lying at the bottom is a sure sign that
the output bearing is on its way out.

Install its self while you sit on the couch and drink beer? Well,
you'd have to bring it here for that to happen. I have a big-screen
TV but I don't drink anymore so we'll hafta go find you a liquor
store. :-) ~Tracy


San Diego, CA
1987 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE. I am the second owner of this bike. The
first owner bought it new and maintained it with a passion. Rick
Gervasi at did all the maintenance
and repairs on the bike since new. He was the service manager at the
Suzuki dealership when it was sold and he did the delivery prep then
opened his own shop and the former owner continued to have Rick care
for it there. The former owner had a philosophy that if the bike
needed it or it would improve it the bike got it period. This is one
of the nicest Cavalcades you'll ever see. It has virtually
everything.  If you know anything about Cavalcades you know 1987 was
the sweet spot for these bikes. Engine has been on full synthetic
since the break-in period was completed. The aux. gear case has the
second generation plug and second generation drive shaft with larger
u-joints. Final drive was rebuilt with new bearings and seals about
a year ago. It hadn't failed but when Rick was replacing the rear
tire he noticed a small leak on the inside and recommended it to the
former owner and it was done. Bike has Avon touring elites with ride-
on sealant installed. Deluxe chrome trim package on front forks. The
fuel system has always been run with marvel mystery oil and is in
perfect condition. Everything on the bike works. The stereo has the
new switches installed. It comes with full deluxe cover (small tear
in lower left seam) tank bag, gear bag made for trunk rack, two
matching helmets with intercom systems. Note: the one helmet has the
spring in the mike boom broken and may be repairable. Bike has super
brace on front fork with progressive springs, deluxe lighting
package, and Aux. xenon driving lights. Also included are Saddle bag
guards, front cornering lamps with guards. It has a CB radio, auto
level, air compressor with hose kit, air adjustable seats front and
rear, passenger controls for stereo, CB and intercom. She has custom
professional pin stripping. There is a trunk rack; GPS satellite
navigation and Cigarette lighter. The factory service manual and
service manual on CD are included, as are all owner manuals and soft
sided luggage liners, Battery monitor, hitch and third brake light.
The windshield is flawless and in perfect condition. Bike has baker
dual pane air wings. No tears in the upholstery. Custom after market
grips. It has a Markland driver back rest, leg heaters, turn down
pipes and washable foam air cleaner. The bike runs flawlessly and
rides like a dream. There are a couple of cosmetic flaws that I want
to point out. First on the right side of the stereo and air cleaner
housing about where your knee rests there is a spot about the size
of a half dollar where brake fluid dripped on the paint and it
bubbled the paint some. It is not too noticeable and the paint still
has the original color. The right saddle bag has a scuff mark on the
side that shows a little but it is minor and doesn't really stand
out.  I have all maintenance and repair records for the bike since
it was new. I will e mail additional photos if requested. You may
call me at 760-765-3902 if you want to ask any questions that I
haven't covered here. Medical bills force this sale. I have this
bike advertised locally and reserve the right to withdraw it from
auction if I get a local buyer before end of auction. Bike is in San
Diego county CA and is to be picked up with in San Diego county CA. 
Buyer to make $500.00 deposit and pay balance with in ten days of
close of auction. Bike is sold as is.  "Ron"

St. Augustine, FL
I am going to sell my 1986 Cade LX. I have too many toys and not
enough time for them all.  The price is $3500.00 VERY FIRM! Don't
waste your time, [or mine] with low-ball offers. This bike is like
new. I'm the second owner. [36,000 easy miles.] Since I've owned the
bike the following has been repaired or replaced; New Avon viper
tires, new brakes, clutch and brake hydraulics purged and refilled,
[dot-4] Regulator/rectifier replaced, new battery, all recommended
updates to electrical system done.[ground connection under battery
soldered, etc.]The price includes the complete Tracy plug and seal
kit for the secondary gearbox. It's not needed YET, but I'm ready.
Also misc. parts and a full Veltrix bike cover. The bike is located
in NE FL[St.Augustine] For pictures go to Listed in
classifieds "trade for Moto-Guzzi". Contact Doug at 904-669-3116.I
can deliver within 500 miles for $1.00 per mile. The photos of my
Cade are located at the following address;

Hi All: Been a member for several years and greatly enjoy the Q&A
appearing on this site. I have an 87 LXE maroon and grey with
118,000 miles on the clock. I also have 3 86 LX's as parts bikes
which I want to sell. Two are completely disassembled except for the
forks, & swing arm in order to move them around. Have many plastic
parts including the saddle bags and trunks. They are Blue on Blue.
Anyone interested, contact me via e-mail. I'm located in
Philadelphia, PA. E-MAIL: "bsklar_19149" <>




Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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