March, 2005

Just a reminder that Americade (the largest touring bike rally) is
coming June 6th-12 at Lake George NY.  This is a great time to get
some mountain riding done and meet fellow Caders at the same time. 
If you haven't been to this bike fest you need to go just once. 
They have tons of venders and lots of neat rides and poker runs
going the whole week.  You get to enjoy a beautiful lake and lots of
good food.  Americade is geared toward families so you can bring the
kids if you want.  If you plan to attend you need to get your hotel
reservations now...and there are plenty of campsites around the
lake.  For more info go to  We usually end up with
about 40 or more Cades in attendance. 
September 12-16 are the dates for our West Coast Cade Raid in 2005.
We will tour Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park,
visit Cody and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. We will also feature evening
classes and hands-on workshops on Cavalcade maintenance and repair
and we'll host a Cavalcade Store where you can buy and sell
Cavalcade parts and items like we did last year at Branson.
Our lodging will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort at Island Park,
Idaho. We have reserved the entire resort for our Cade Raid. To
reserve your guest room, their telephone number is 208-558-9366,
email address is and web site
In addition to the guest rooms, Sawtelle Resort has RV sites, tent
sites and a bunkhouse. The bunkhouse will be available for solo men
at a cost of $210 per person for the six nights we will be at the
Sawtelle Mountain Resort. The $210 rate equals $35 per night. If you
wish to take advantage of the bunkhouse lodging, you will need to
register and make payment in advance to me. A
$50 deposit will hold your reservation until August 15, 2005.
Payment in full will be due on that date. Please email me if you'd
like to book into the bunkhouse.
Running the Dragon: Sept. 9,10,11th. Our overnight venue is The Best
Western in Townsend Tennessee. For Reservations call (865) 448-2237
group rate $77.00, under Suzuki Cavalcade. ~ Rides to: Pidgeon Forge
and Gatlinburg Tennessee, Deals Gap, the Great Smokey Mountains
National Park.
Sat, Sept 10th, will go to Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, Smokey
Mountain National Park. ~ We plan Running Deals Gap both Sunday and
Monday, Sept 11, 12th. Everyone will get the chance to ride the
Dragon. While along the Blue Ridge and Skyline Drives there will be
lots of time for visiting, and shopping, stopping for the sights,
and of course eating. All Cavalcaders and Friends are welcome.
Along the Blue Ridge and Skyline Drives:
Sept. 12 & 13th. Lodging is at the Comfort Inn River Ridge, at
Ashville NC. For Reservations call (828) 298-9141 group rate $75.00
includes hot breakfast. Rides are to Chimney Rock, Mount Mitchell,
and Mount Piscah
Sept 14th, We will be at the Comfort Inn in Lenoir, NC. For
Reservations call (828) 754-2090, group rate $56, dbl occupancy. ~
Ride to: Blowing Rock
Sept 15th, We stay at the Days Inn in Bedford, VA. For Reservations
call (540)586-8286, Group rate $50. ~ Ride to Natural Bridge
Sept16 & 17th  We are at the Quality Inn Skyline Drive, Front Royal
VA. For Reservations call (540)635-3161, group rate $63.75, double
occupancy. ~ Ride the Shenandoah Valley
Rides for the different locations are still being put together so if
you have any suggestions, contact me. ~Larry:
Ride 1: June 24, 25, 26-trenton Ontario-one hour from Toronto, east
on highway 401 on the shores of Lake Ontario Our goal is $1,000,000
this June., a fundraiser and ride for blindness,
factory demo rides, bike flea market, 5000 bike mass ride, bike
shows, bike games, bands and camping join the fun.

Ride 2: July 5-9, Collingwood Ontario location for the first annual
northern bike week (trying for a Daytona)-100 miles north of Toronto
party, camping, rides, games and lots of fun.

Ride 3: august 13-burlington, Ontario fundraiser, prizes and tour
for breast cancer research
We are planning a 'Spring Run' for Middle Tennessee Cavalcade
Owners. The Date is set for Sunday, April 10, 2005. ** Depending on
the weather, the ride is subject to rescheduling. We will meet at
Loveless Cafe in Nashville at 10am. Get a little grub and then head
out down the Natchez Trace. The Ride will take us to the Alabama
State line. From there we will return to our perspective routes
home.  I am sure there will be sites we will want to take in. These
things will be discussed at Loveless Cafe. You can follow this link
to get directions to Loveless-  For
more info as it develops Contact: Rick Moore, "BigD" at
It's time to consider our Wisconsin Cade Raid. I have 19 Cade owners
and 21 Cades accounted for in our state. I know that there are more,
as I have seen a few in my travels around the state. It would be
nice to get most of these together at one time.  I would like some
input from all that are interested as to when and where you would
like this years Cade Raid. I would also like to have all Cade owners
in Wisconsin to email me at with your name,
city and email address. This Cade Raid is open to anyone to join us,
whether you have a Cade or not and anyone from anywhere. Let's see
if we can out-do our previous Wisconsin Cade Raids. ~Jerry, `86LXE
of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.


I have a little 'ride' story I'd like to share.  (Readers Digest
Version) A Friend and I (with wife) took the Cade's out, yesterday.
What a Wonderful "February" Day, here in Middle Tennessee. Sunny Hi
50's. We took a little trek to Cordell Hull Lake and back. When we
got to our hometown, we stopped at one of our favorite eateries,
Logan's (yum-yum). While we were waiting for service, we noticed
people standing around our bikes, taking pictures! I was astonished,
why would anybody want photo's, standing in front of my bike??? They
took several photo, different angles, swapping persons as the shot
them. We were making a humored fuss about it, which made others take
notice. I jokingly said to my friend, "and, you wanted a Harley?" 
We all found it pretty funny, as the group of people approached the
entrance to the Restaurant, turned out to be Asian, an elderly
couple with a possible younger daughter. "Who knows, they probably
worked on the production line- that made these awesome machines." It
was a great day. I wish for all of you....Happy and Safe Riding!!!
Feeling' the Breeze, ~BigD in Midst, `86 XLE

I have a sheepskin seat cover that came with my Cade that needs
replacing. Does anyone know of a place that makes sheepskin covers?
I have asked all around the Orlando area and can't find anyone who
will make one. ~Bob Morse, Clermont, FL

Bob, I bought my 'lambskin' seat cover from Hartco Intn'l, while I
was at Americade last year. They did not have a Cade cover there,
but there were other samples of their work. I talked to Kelly; it is
my understanding that she is the person who actually makes the
sheepskin covers. I ordered covers for the seat and back, (not the
head bumper) and paid $160.00, they did not charge for shipping and
threw a rain cover in as part of the deal. (I think the rain cover
about $30 was an Americade 'special', but you may be able to
negotiate a 'Daytona' bike week special.)

I got a "black sheep', but they have other colors.  It fits well,
and I think it looks good. They made it up and sent it within a
week.  Be sure they know which seat you have, there are at least two
different shapes, and they have patterns for both. They are located
in Crescent City, a nice afternoon ride for you.  ~Len Buswell, MA
Bob, Saw your question for info on sheepskin seat covers, I've used
Hartco International in the past. There website is Somewhere in FL,  they even have a picture of a
Cade with the seat covers on their home page, so shouldn't be a
problem getting a seat cover for our old girls. ~Mark, Dallas, TX

Two of my Cades have the maintenance free batteries, but the newest
addition still has the stocker.  That battery still appears to have
plenty of miles left on it, so I was doing battery maintenance today.

At Branson, medics Larry and Nancy gave me a gag gift having to do
with my invention a number of years ago of a prototype E-Z-Leaker
(which didn't work out, but that's a whole nuther story.)

In any case, part of this gag gift was a large horse syringe, which
is hard to come by in Taxifornia because dopers use them to do
whatever it is that dopers do to themselves with syringes.  For some
odd reason, they won't let us squares buy the plastic syringe part,
which is a heck of a useful tool for non-medical purposes.

I took that plastic part and adapted a piece of metal tubing which I
cut to the length of the distance from the top of the battery to the
low water level.  I now just add water 30cc at a time.  If I pull
back the plunger and get air, I add more water.  I keep adding until
I get water when I pull back on the syringe. 30cc is about the
amount of water it takes to go from low water to high water mark,
that way I don't overfill. 

This little device allows me to do battery maintenance without
removing the battery, which saves time and aggravation.  Of course,
now I have a whole bunch of unused time and aggravation stored up
and nowhere to spend it. ~Spike

This may be the most useful advice you ever get from me, regarding a
great tool to have in your cavalcade bag is that when you go on the
road get yourself a tube of propoxy20.

I found it in the hardware store in the plumbing aisle. My head was
leaking where the mounting bolt comes thru the tank.  I drained the
tank, took a glob of that Propoxy 20, and packed it around the bolt
where it comes thru, now its good as new.  If you don't know what I
am talking about, go into the bathroom, take the lid off the tank of
your head and look down at the bottom, you will see two bolts that
hold the water tank to the head.  If they are wet on the outside,
you know what to do.

Propoxy 20 comes in a tube of epoxy and hardener, with the hardener
in the center of the putty, kinda like a jelly donut.  You slice off
a section and roll it in your hands like clay to mix the stuff, and
then you form it like you would do with modeling clay. In 20 minutes
the stuff is REALLY IMPRESSIVELY hard.

I used it four times in the past coupla days on the Cade and
helmets:  to insulate the battery terminal bolt in three places, to
repair a broken microphone boom, to make a plastic mike cable mount
that had broken (I actually formed a close-enough replacement part
by sculpting it outa the claylike epoxy mixture).

The ad claims it "makes steel-hard repairs in 20 minutes!"  Steel-
hard is a bit of an exaggeration, but the stuff is remarkably tough,
and you can form the hardened epoxy with a grinder like you would a
steel or aluminum part.  It's waterproof and nonconductive. Hercules
Propoxy20 epoxy putty.  Get some, try it. ~Spike


Thinking about splurging on some heated clothing and would greatly
appreciate some opinions from the Group.  Nancy, I know you love
your Gerbing's but I'm wondering if any of the competitors stack up,
or is Gerbing like the "Bushtec" of heated clothing? Has anyone had
any warranty issues?  Gerbing and Widder seem to be in the same
price range but Gerbing has a lifetime warranty on their electrics. 
Finally, I'm not interested in where to get the wires and do it
myself - I'm intending on splurging - I'm not looking for any more
of a project than installing the battery harness! Thanks for any
feedback you can offer. ~Nibbler of Mark & Nibbler, Grey-on-Grey GT
in Ohio

Nibbler, I have the Widder heated gloves.  I got them a couple of
years ago and they have a one year warranty.  I noticed this year
that one of the gloves was not working.  I sent an email to Widder
and they said to send the gloves back and not to worry about the
warranty.  I just got them back on Tuesday and have not tried them
out yet, but I feel sure they are fixed.  I have the on/off
controller and it is not that difficult to operate.  It is on most
of the time. That's my experience with Widder. ~Tom (1986 LXE in

My wife has a Widder vest and she loves it. Reliable and works just
as it is advertised to do. Consumes very little power and is great.
She has the on/off switch and has no trouble with it. The switch is
very reliable and is one less thing to go wrong. ~Clarence ... 1986
Cavalcade in Nova Scotia....

If you are intent on splurging, get the Gerbing with the controllers
so you don't have to keep turning it on and off like my home made
unit. I have found that the heated jacket liner is like riding on a
day 40 degrees warmer. That's why I always leave with it on. Ride
safe and warm, ~Mark

I was hoping someone would bring this up because I've been toying
with an idea.  Be warned that I am a notorious cheapass.  I need to
admit I have a problem and join Cheapasses Anonymous.  I know in my
heart that there is a higher power that can help me stop being a
cheapass. It's called money.

But in the meantime, I was thinking about making a poor man's
electric vest by taking a standard heating pad and trying to rig it
to work on 12 volts DC.  Now I recognize that it wouldn't make
anything like the amount of heat that it does when plugged into the
wall, but it wouldn't need to.  I would cut the controller off of
it, which must have some resistance, but I don't know how much.  I'm
not even sure how those Hi-med-lo controllers work on a heating pad,
and I don't want to cut up a perfectly good heating pad if there is
some way to determine the resistance of the pad minus the controller.

Any ideas?  I might try to skin the wire and test it with an
ohmmeter I suppose.  If the pad would dissipate about 30-40 watts
that might be plenty for the mild Taxifornia winters. ~Spike
Spike, If you want to get heated and retain you cheapass status it's
pretty easy if you don't mind doing a little project. All you really
need is a little rated wire weave it through your garment and hook
it up. Most of us have enough hook-up wire and an extra connector
lying around. The wire for the jacket or whatever you want to heat
is not too hard to find. You can find it on e-bay for less than $10
for 100 feet. 100 feet would be enough to do two or three jackets.
If you want to take a heating pad apart and try to use the element
out of it I can give you the formula but basically you want it to
have about three or four ohms of resistance to pull about three or
four amps. More wire makes less heat so measure the ohm resistance
and cut the wire to length to get the right amount of resistance. I
was also thinking about doing heated grips, seat and false tank
where your legs touch. It doesn't sound like much area but you know
that if it was cold you would use it and it could stay on the bike
all the time. ~Mark

Repeating a few things I've done on six of these treasures we call
1. Progressive air over hydraulic shocks made for the 1200 Gold wing
work fine. Get the air hose kit with the shocks.
2. The sealed battery for the 1800 Gold wing is slightly smaller
that the Suzi battery, but has more cold cranking amps. That is a
good thing.   J.C. Whitney sells a battery with 36 month warranty.
3. I connect the fluid level sensor to a 12 volt to 6 volt resistor
that comes from NAPA. No amperage, so no heat. Mount it anywhere in
the battery area.
4. The stock horns from the 1800 Gold wing were mounted behind the
cornering lights on my LXE, using NO relay, NO special wiring, work
fine and sound like your Dad's Buick.
5. The CB radio supplied by Clarion that came out on the Kawasaki
Voyager plugs into the Cavalcade harness.
6. Rotating the stanchions or handlebar mounts 180 degrees seems to
help slow speed handling.
~Ed Haynes, Colorado


Okay folks, the main output bearing issue is solved. If you need
one, I can supply them for $125 ready to press onto the shaft. You
will need to remove the anti-rotation pin from your OEM bearing and
drive it into the replacement. If you want to see how I did it, go
to  Also, if you want to
make your own or have one made, I will supply the bearing number
that I used. ~ Just as a note, the replacement bearing has twice as
many balls as the stocker. Don't ask me why Koyo made a double-
roller ball bearing with 1/2 of the balls of a standard ball bearing
but they did. Maybe that's why they fail. Anyway, the replacement
will have more load carrying capacity than the stocker. ~ Also, just
for grins, you can take a look at a super-naked Cade and a little of
what I do at 

Just as a note, I've seen a couple of frayed lower throttle cables
on a couple of bikes now so I just wanted to put out the info. The
cable will start to fray where it exits the housing at the carbs.
It's really easy to check for just by looking in the black triangle
insert on the right side of the bike. I had the local bike shop put
a new inner cable in the housing. It cost about $12.50.
Unfortunately, they made the cable 1/4" too short and I ended up
remaking it using the brass ends that they soldered on (and a poor
soldering job they did also). There is almost no adjustment in that
cable so it has to be the right length.
There are 3 throttle cables on the Cade and they all end up at a
junction box behind the battery. You can take the cover off the box
(be careful, there is a wound up spring inside that is attached to
the cover) and take the cables out for repair. Just keep track of
how the different cams are situated in the box and where each cable
goes and how many turns there are on the wound spring. You can get
to the box by taking out the battery and the battery tray (need to
have the right upper fairing off as well).
I bought some of the brass ends in the event that I need to repair
any more cables. They are soldered on and I used silver-bearing
plumbing solder (there's very little silver in it) and the included
flux (really good stuff) which is available at most any hardware
store. Make sure you get the package that has the flux included as
it's the real secret to getting the solder to slick properly. Be
warned, wherever you apply flux the solder will flow and stick to so
use it very sparingly. A common propane torch is more than enough
heat to get the job done.

Well, I finally found a suitable module to repair voltmeters with.
It's LCD which will make daytime viewing much better when the sun's
at your back, it fits into the same case as the other module, it
appears to be better quality (still from China but different
manufacturer), allows common ground operation (important), and I can
light it with a couple of white LED's for night viewing (slight blue
cast), and it's priced right. I have a few of the modules here and
will be working on repairing some failed meters that I have. Please
bear with me on this, I will get them back to you as soon as I can
and will get more modules on order to get everyone's failed meter
repaired and back to you. Of course, the failed meters will be
repaired at no charge. If these new modules work out (and some of
the first to get them back will be somewhat of guinea pigs for road
testing) then I will have meters available again for sale at a
similar price to the prior ones. Thanks for your never-ending
patience on this. ~Tracy

I'm going to take my bike in for a service on some stuff I don't
want to tackle. What is the best gear oil to put in the boxes?
Clutch and brakes systems also? There are a plethora of excellent
lubricants out there that probably don't differ all that much,
right? I think I will use Amsoil in the crankcase because I can get
it locally. Is it wise to use a synthetic in the gearboxes too? Rick
uses sync Redline in the boxes so I may use that. Is sync brake
fluid ok. I suppose it is. Is it truly a pain in the butt to replace
the anti freeze and what is the best for our bikes? Just a few??
~Kevin 86 LXE

Kevin, For my money it's Amsoil all the way for engines and
gearboxes. I just worked on an Amsoil only bike that has 142K miles
on it and I had to split the engine cases and it was unbelievably
clean inside. The cam looked great and so did the crank and main
bearings. The reason I was into the motor was for a main output
bearing and I have made my case that they put half the balls that
were needed in the bearing and it failed due to that fact and not to
the type of oil being used. That bearing has failed on motors with
half or less miles than this one.

The clutch plates were still in factory spec and were only slightly
glazed even after that many miles (and lots of trailer towing). The
clutch never has slipped on this bike but I think that is a
testament to using Amsoil from the second oil change. The plates
never had a chance to burn and get glazed from dino oil which is
what I believe is the primary culprit to glazed plates. We went
ahead and put in Barnett springs anyway.

I rebuilt the secondary gearbox with all new bearings but it wasn't
absolutely necessary that I did. The bearings actually looked better
than those I took out of a bike with only 40K miles. The owner just
felt that since the preload had loosened up some that it was time to
completely go through it. Again, use Amsoil from the beginning.

I also rebuilt the water pump as it was on the verge of leaking but
this had the ORIGINAL water pump in it (put that in your statistics
and smoke it, Spike). In fact, the clutch-side cover had never been
off before.

As for antifreeze, I put in Dexcool compatible (orange) made by
Prestone or others and 2 ounces of Barsleak and some Water Wetter.
It's a no silicate formula (specified by Suzuki) and should make the
water pump seal last as along as possible.

I use Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 fluid in brakes and clutch. It has a
higher boiling point than most DOT 4 rated fluids. You could also
opt for a DOT 5.1 (not 5 but 5.1) as it has a pretty high boiling
point as well. The stuff still gets pretty gunky in the clutch after
a couple of years but it won't boil near as fast in the slave
cylinder which it what leads to the off-ramp, no-clutch scenario.
It's pretty scary when it happens.

On another Amsoil note, I replaced a stator in this bike awhile back
that had been in there for 90K miles. Heat is why stators fail and I
believe that the synthetic oil cools it better.

You all may think this is a commercial for Amsoil and you would be
right. I've used it for years and will swear by it. And I only
change oil once a year (sometimes not quite that often if I get
lazy). ~Tracy

Another issue that I had with a carburetor rebuilt recently was the
air cut-off diaphragms. These are very common on Mikuni CV carbs.
The diaphragms didn't have pinholes like the slide diaphragms did
but instead had small bubbles on one side. When held up to the light
you could see that they were thin in the bubbled area and would
likely leak if left in there. OEM units are about $48 ea. but there
is a supplier in Canada that has them for $17.50 ea. + $2.50 postage
for up to 4 units. The web address is and the part # for the Cade
is  88-S001. ~Tracy

Sometime back I sent out some aftermarket thermostat part numbers
that felt would work in the Cade. I had used a car stat in mine and
didn't have any fit problems but one of the Caders that tried to use
a 52MM car stat said that it didn't work and he had to get an OEM
offset stat which sells for about $40. An aftermarket sells for
about $5.

Well, on this last bike I looked to see what the deal was. Why was I
able to use an aftermarket stat and the other Cader wasn't? Well, it
has to do with the diameter of the spring used to keep the stat in
the closed. There is a lip cast into the t-stat housing that will
hit the spring frame of the t-stat if it's too large in diameter. I
must have gotten lucky when I did mine and got a stat with a fairly
small diameter spring that cleared the lip. However, a few minutes
with a die grinder with a cylindrical burr took care of that and,
for the bike that was just here, fitting a car stat in it from this
point on is not going to be a problem. I did not see that the little
bit of lip that I ground off will have any effect on anything.
Please realize that I had the motor out sitting on the bench when I
did the grinding work so this may not be applicable to everyone as
the access is rather limited with the motor still in the bike. If
you decide to make the same modification, please make sure to keep
the chips out of everything by plugging up the holes with rags or
whatever. And, if you decide to use an aftermarket stat, make sure
it has a 1/8" or so bleed hole in the face of it for bypass
purposes. Or, you could simply find a stat that smaller
spring/spring frame that will clear the lip to begin with. ~Tracy

I put a shorter bearing in with a 4mm spacer and one locating stud.
Just finished a 900 mile ride over both flat and hilly twisty roads
with as yet, and hopefully, (touching wood!!) no more, problems.
I've pulled the covers off to inspect, I put 8 reference marks at
various points and they show that nothing has moved so this fix
looks hopeful. I would still be happier with 2 locator studs though.
(Or an original size bearing) Regards Hui S T Blue LX

Just curious, why did you need a spacer? The aftermarket bearing is
exactly the same length as the original's inner race so the only
thing that needs to be longer is the outer race which a spacer
doesn't do. Yes, you can put a spacer on the shaft ahead of the
bearing to set it out the additional length but then that screws up
the alignment of the pressed-on retainer that the seal rides on.
It's not wide enough to soak up 4mm of change in location.

Also, did you get a bearing that has a groove for the c-clip
retainer that goes into the engine case? That c-clip is what keeps
the tranny shaft in position. And, did you drill a hole for the anti-
rotation pin?

I hope it holds up for you. But, if you need one that's an exact
replacement, I can make it for you. ~Tracy

Hi Tracy.  I started on the secondary removal today and disconnected
everything and now my question is: "How much prying, tapping, etc...
does it take to release the secondary from the engine?"  I've been
messing with it for maybe 20 minutes and it hasn't budged so I
figured I'd ask before I break something.  I'm assuming it pulls
over the gear shift shaft. I have all the bolts removed, the drive
shaft pulled away etc....  Any tips would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Rick, Here's what I do. I take the cast-iron bearing carrier off
first (3 - 12mm head bolts and 2 - 10mm head bolts). There is the
cam dog spring behind it so it should start to come out of the drive
by the spring's pressure. I take out the 3 - 12mm first and then
back out the 10mm heads a little at a time as it comes out. After
that, the box comes off easier since the main shaft can move around
inside the hole. ~ Just as a note, I loosen ALL 6 of the 12mm head
bolts a little first, maybe 1/2 turn, before I start taking them
out. That way there's not one bolt holding it on that has to carry
all of the pressure and it might break off when you try and remove
it last. ~ Now, if you're sure you have all of the 12mm head bolts
out (2 of the bearing carrier bolts go all the way through and then
there are 2 on the left, top and bottom one of which has the wire
holder thingy on it, and one on the very bottom middle (the right
one of the 2 that hold the clutch line bracket on) then it should
come off with a few taps. Contrary to what Tom had to say, there are
only 5 bolts that hold the drive to the motor. The 6th only holds
the bearing carrier to the drive. However, you will take out 6 -
12mm bolts to take off the bearing carrier and remove the drive. You
DO NOT need to take out the 2 bolts at the rear of the drive. Those
hold the drive together.

Now comes the rub. I had one secondary gear case that would NOT come
off. I had all of the bolts out and it would only budge a little but
would not come off. I finally just split the secondary case while it
was attached to the motor and found the problem. The jackass that
had been in there before me (a paid mechanic) had put 2 bolts in
that did not belong. There are 2 extra drilled holes (for 6mm bolts
~ 10mm head) in the inner half of the secondary drive case and there
are 2 corresponding holes that are tapped for 6mm bolts in the
engine case. For whatever reason, the mechanic had split the box on
the motor and when he reassembled it he put 2 bolts in those holes
so there was no way that case was going to come off until the bolts
were taken out. It's tough to see but with a small mirror and a
flashlight you should be able to peak up in there (between the
clutch slave and the motor) and if you see a bolt head on one or
both sides of the hole that the clutch pushrod goes though then you
have the same problem and will have to split the case on the motor
to get it off. I'm not saying that's your issue however I mention it
because it happened to me. ~Tracy

I live in Utica, NY so riding continues to be out of the question
for now. I fired up the beast today and I am still getting a
consistent 12 volts if turned off or beyond 3k rpm it still seems to
be at 12v. Any thoughts? The beast has about 36k miles. Happy
motoring! ~smarcus53_1999

12V is too low. It should be closer to 14V. Here's from a prior post
on that subject: The charging system on the Cade is like that
installed on a huge majority of bikes. It's very simple having just
3 components and only 2 of those are subject to failure; the stator
and the regulator/rectifier (or RR). The third component is the
rotor but unless the field magnets magically lost their magnetism or
somehow exited the assembly (virtually impossible on both counts)
then the rotor isn't subject to failure or replacement. (ADDENDUM:
We may have seen a case of lost magnetism. If the rotor gets too
hot, the magnets can fail.)

The stator is located in the LEFT side engine cover (left when
sitting on the bike facing forward). The failure of a stator is
typically through shorting of the windings to each other or to the
stator stack (the stack of thin plates that are riveted together to
provide the poles on which the windings are wound). In case, some or
much of the power being generated by the movement of the magnets
past the poles will be drained off by the short.

According to Spikes statistics, a stator should last about 40K
miles. However, that is a mean value. Actual life is due to a number
of factors but some stators last much longer and a few don't last
quite that long. The reason the windings short out is due to heat.
The insulation on the stator windings is basically like a thick
coating of paint not like the plastic insulation found on ordinary
wire. Because they have to pack as much wire into such a small space
to realize a suitable power output, this enamel insulation has to be
thin and is only going to last so long. The cooler you
keep it the longer is should last. However, since the cooling is by
the engine oil and since we really can't modify how much oil spray
gets onto the windings; we have to accept that the windings will
fail eventually. That's just one of the drawbacks of a permanent
magnet, shunted system. I'll explain the shunted part in a minute.

Of the numerous stators that I've looked at, the typical failure is
in the upper quadrant. It appears that's where there's the least
amount of oil spray to the windings and that area runs hotter and
the insulation cooks faster. Since this is a shunted type system,
the windings are under constant stress.

In a permanent magnet system the field is created by permanent
magnets mounted inside the rotor which is spinning at crankshaft
speed. As each magnet's north and south poles pass over each stator
pole electrical power is generated in the form of AC (electrical
power being defined loosely by the movement of electrons in the
windings). The windings on the stator are connected in such a way
that 3 separate phases of AC are generated. The no load output of
the stator with the motor spinning at 5K RPM is around 100 volts
even though some high output stators are would differently and can
put out 200 no-load volts. Obviously, this is way more voltage than
what we need and we need to convert it to DC so that we can use it
to power the bike and acc and to keep the starting battery charged.
That's where the RR comes in.

The RR is mounted behind the tachometer (in front of it) and is
attached to the fairing frame. Is serves the function of both
rectifying the AC from the stator into usable DC and it also shunts
the excess power to ground to keep the voltage within a range that
will power the bike and acc and also keep the battery fully charged.
Under normal circumstances, the RR will keep about 14-14.5 volts on
the system. Even if the battery is fully charged, it should maintain
that voltage. However, when idling or when the demand is greater
that the output of the stator, that voltage can fall and under other
conditions it can also go up.

If you don't have any extra lights on and you can't read 14 volts at
the battery with the motor spinning at 3K or so, then either the
stator or the RR or both will probably need to be replaced. I say
probably because there is one important thing that needs to be
checked before committing either component to replacement.

There is a connector in the battery compartment through which the RR
Sendai's its extra current to the ground side of the system. That
connector in some (possibly many) cases will become corroded, loose
or whatever and
the RR can't shunt the extra power to ground properly so the RR will
see much more heat than what it was designed to and is destined to
fail if the connector is not repaired. Actually, the connector isn't
even needed since it is only there for the original assembly of the
bike. If you check it and it looks fine, good. Just make sure it's
clean and tight and it won't hurt to use some dielectric grease on
it to prevent future corrosion. Dielectric grease is available at
any auto parts store and is also listed as bulb grease. It is
generally silicone based and has a very high viscosity and won't
melt and run out of the connector like ordinary dino grease or
Vaseline. Silicones have extremely high melt temperatures and those
sold as electrical grease (dielectric) are made especially for
electric applications. A tube will cost $2-3 and is enough to do
about every connection on the bike. In fact, every time you have to
take a connection
apart, it's a good idea to make sure it's clean and grease it to
prevent future problems.

The connector in question can be seen at

If the connector looks good, you can proceed to checking the stator
output. BTW, I'm assuming that the battery in the bike is good and
doesn't have an internal short or something else wrong with it. If
you aren't sure, have it load checked. Most places that sell
batteries can also test them. If the connector is melted or has
other obvious signs of high resistance through it, it should be cut
out and the wires soldered together. If you repaired the connector
recheck the system voltage with the motor running at 3K or so and if
it still won't come up to 14 volts, then checking the stator is next.

Unfortunately, the only way to check the stator is with the stator
leads unplugged from the RR. Those connections (also shown at ) are located
just to the right of the headlight (sitting on bike facing forward)
and will most likely require the removal of the right upper fairing
to access. If you have child-size hands, you might be able to reach
them through the right speaker hole. You have to unplug them so that
the no-load voltage output can be checked. The stator wires are
generally yellow but could be another color if
the stator had been replaced prior with a rewind. You would then
just look for the yellow wires coming from the RR and unplug the 3
large plastic connectors. There are 3 small bullet type connectors
that tie the stator leads to the noise suppressor that hangs on the
right side of the headlight but those do not need to be unplugged to
test the stator.

With all 3 stator leads unplugged from the RR and with an AC
voltmeter set to read a least 100 VAC, test each pair of stator
leads while running the motor up to 5K RPM. By each pair I mean 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 1 and 3. Each pair
should produce at least 90 VAC at 5K rpm. If you get something less
than that on one or more pairs, then the stator must be replaced.
Fortunately, stators are easily rewound with new wire since the
stator stack is reusable over and over. Several competent re-winders
are listed at .
Rewound stators run about $125-$140 and there are even new stators
available from Rick's for a little more money. New isn't better,
Rick's was running out of cores and since the Cade and the FI Gold
Wing share the same stator stack, Rick's had tooling made to produce
new stacks. If you get a rewind, you are normally required to send
in your old stator as a core.

If the stator checks good (90 VAC + on each pair of 3 legs at 5K
RPM), then the only thing left is the RR. New ones are available
from several sources at the same address as above and will run about
$120-$140. Just a note, the Electrex RR will not come with the
factory style plugs for the stator connections and you'll have to
reuse your old ones and connect them on the new reg. Also, it won't
use the orange wire. That wire was used to sense system voltage and
the new regs do that internally. The one from Rick's comes with the
factory connectors all around. It's been expressed that if you want
an Electrex, you will probably get better service out of Dennis Kirk
than buying it direct from Electrex.

If the stator checks bad then, obviously, you'll have to replace it
but the RR may also be bad. There is check procedure in the service
manual using an ohmmeter. If you don't have a manual, send me an e-
mail at and I'll send you that page out of the manual.

That's about it. Simple as pie. Please note, though, that the stator
may check "good" but may still be on its way south. If you have 40K
or more miles and you want to be sure that it won't die on you in
the worst possible place, then you will have to remove the left side
engine case and look at it. Even though there's no steadfast way to
tell whether it's gonna fail in the next few miles, if it looks like
a crispy critter then a replacement is probably not a bad idea. 

It's been a bit since we discussed carbs and gas mileage so here's a
little info… I just took down a bike that has 142K miles. There were
several complaints and one of them was poor gas mileage. He was
getting in the low 30's and if he pulled trailer it was in the 20's.
The bike runs okay but was lacking a little power as compared to
some I've ridden. Well, after taking the carbs down partway I found
that all 4 diaphragms had holes in them.

The holes ranged from tiny pinholes to several gaping ones with a
couple of the diaphragms having 3 or more holes. This is caused, in
part, by roughness in the carb body casting but is also the result
of them flexing back and forth thousands of times. Since the rubber
has to travel quite a distance, it gets natural folds in it as it
moves and those folds touch the carb body again and again and
finally just wear through.

So, even if your bike seems to run good if it's gulping a little too
much fuel and maybe smells of gas out the pipes, it could be related
in part to those expensive diaphragms (about $80 ea.)

On another note, the throttle cable was about 60% worn through where
it exits the housing at the carbs. Since new ones are not available,
I was able to remove just that section from the junction box which
sits behind the battery tray (the tray has to come out to get the
cover off it). Be careful removing the cover on the junction box as
there is a coil spring inside that is attached on one end to the
cover. Count the turns it takes to unwind the spring as you turn the
cover. Then an e-clip and the cable is outa there. My local shop can
make a new inner cable with the correct ends since the housing is
still good. ~Tracy

Is it normal to have loud 'clang' when going through the gears? The
clutch seems to have good pressure and the tranny doesn't make any
unusual noises, except when changing gears. I was wondering if it's
just mine or is this a 'Cade' thing? ~Rich

Well Rich, 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are the worst. Synthetic oil
helps. Engineers designed it that way. You don't put a Porsche
tranny in a Mack truck. ~Tracy
Tracy, I have a related tranny Question. My bike is hard to shift up
into third gear when cold. After warming up it's okay again. I lubed
the shift linkage and found and tightened a loose bolt that holds
the left foot peg but that made no difference for the shifting. I
run 20-50 Red Line synthetic oil. Should I change to 10-40 or the
new 5w-50 during the winter? I don't ride when it's below 40 deg F.

10W40 Mark, unless you ride in the Sahara desert all the time and
then you MIGHT switch up to a 20W50 if you think that the oil is
thinning too much. But, if the cooling system is keeping the temp
down it's not like an air cooled bike that might need slightly
thicker oil.

You see, 10W40 is cast into the top of the fill plug on the motor
case so you can't forget. All of you that are using thinner or
thicker oils are just fooling around with something that doesn't
need to be fooled with. Just put 10W40 in the thing (a good quality
synthetic like Amsoil) and let it be.  ~Tracy


I have a 1986 LX for sale, I had it painted last year black it was a
2 tone brown to begin with. It's a real sharp bike and has only
54681 miles I'm asking $4,000.00 for her and if you're interested or
need more information call or e-mail me anytime. 859-707-5533 leave
a msg. or email:

New Jersey
88 LX for sale. I will wait a week or two before I pull out the
wrenches and send her in bits and pieces to e-bayers
nice bike need garage space 37,500 miles RUNS STRONG BUT HASNT BEEN
MONTHS NOW will supply a cork kit and manuals to the lucky new
owner. The bike looks sharp will send pictures. I want $2,000.00 for
the bike as is bring the cash and a trailer and its yours this will
be the third Cade I've sold thru the group ask around I'm a straight
up seller please email me and put 88Cade in the header
or it may be deleted as spam. I check my mail every day or so. ~MIKE

1986 LXE for sale. Runs well and has only 38,383 miles. It is blue
on blue and the body is in great shape, Photos are available on
request. Asking $2,500.  "thewire1969"

New tires less than a 1,000 miles on them, new brake pad August of
2004, New stator, new rectifier, new battery in September of 2004.,
new plugs ,oil filter , and all fluid changed in May of 2004. Has
44,000 mile on bike, AM FM cassette stereo, cruses control, digital
read out on dash, passenger seat and back air ride support,
passenger radio controls. Soft luggage bag for all 3 storage
compartments. 2 helmets with working intercom, Bike cover. Bike
color is two-tone brown, CD ROM Manual. I am working on pictures
Asking Price:  $3,000.00 or best offer .Contact Todd at (317) 690-
4199. I live South of Indianapolis in Indiana.

Unfortunate for me it's time for me to part with my Cade. Without
boring details all I can say is lawyers are expensive. I have a '87
LX, two-tone gold with 48867K.  Asking $2500.  Everything is there,
most everything works, it does ride nice.  It has a hitch and a
Corbin saddle and backrest.  It has very good tread on front and
back tires.  The list of needs is fairly small.  Some stitching has
come out of the seat and backrest, a good upholster can easily re-
stitch. Radio switches need replacing.  LED for the radio doesn't
work, I replaced the LED so it isn't that.  The gear position shows
up, but it doesn't tell which gear you are in.  It also comes with
intercom system and one helmet matching the bike.  The only other
thing needed is a left side flag style mirror. I have the mirror
itself, but the glass is broken, currently it has the lower mounted
style on it. There are no major blemishes in paint, one rather ugly
scratch on the front fender, but all together it is in very ridable
condition.  I don't know if the plug has been done yet. If
interested and want pictures, e-mail me direct and I'll get them to
you.  ~Jack in NV



Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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