April, 2005

Here is the April 2005 issue of the Cavalcade Owner’s monthly newsletter.  IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO RECEIVE FUTURE MONTHLY ISSUES OF THIS NEWSLETTER, send me an e-mail with the subject field phrase “No Future Issues”. My e-mail address is

Americade is coming

 Just a reminder that Americade ( North America ’s largest touring bike rally) is coming June 6th-12 at Lake George NY .  This is a great time to get some mountain riding done and meet fellow Caders at the same time.  If you haven't been to this bike fest you need to go just once.  They have tons of venders and lots of neat rides and poker runs going the whole week.  You get to enjoy a beautiful lake and lots of good food.  Americade is geared toward families so you can bring the kids if you want.  If you plan to attend you need to get your hotel reservations now...and there are plenty of campsites around the lake.  For more info go to  We usually end up with about 40 or more Cades in attendance.  



September 12-16 are the dates for our West Coast Cade Raid in 2005. We will tour Yellowstone National Park , Grand Teton National Park , visit Cody and Jackson Hole , Wyoming . We will also feature evening classes and hands-on workshops on Cavalcade maintenance and repair and we’ll host a Cavalcade Store where you can buy and sell Cavalcade parts and items like we did last year at Branson.

 Our lodging will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort at Island Park , Idaho . We have reserved the entire resort for our Cade Raid. To reserve your guest room, their telephone number is 208-558-9366, email address is and web site is

In addition to the guest rooms, Sawtelle Resort has RV sites, tent sites and a bunkhouse. The bunkhouse will be available for solo men at a cost of $210 per person for the six nights we will be at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort. The $210 rate equals $35 per night. If you wish to take advantage of the bunkhouse lodging, you will need to register and make payment in advance to me. A $50 deposit will hold your reservation until August 15, 2005 . Payment in full will be due on that date. Please email me if you'd like to book into the bunkhouse.



Running the Dragon: Sept. 9,10,11th. Our overnight venue is The Best Western in Townsend Tennessee . For Reservations call (865) 448-2237 group rate $77.00, under Suzuki Cavalcade. ~ Rides to: Pidgeon Forge and Gatlinburg Tennessee , Deals Gap, the Great Smokey Mountains National Park .

Sat, Sept 10th, will go to Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, Smokey Mountain National Park . ~ We plan Running Deals Gap both Sunday and Monday, Sept 11, 12th. Everyone will get the chance to ride the Dragon. While along the Blue Ridge and Skyline Drives there will be lots of time for visiting, and shopping, stopping for the sights, and of course eating. All Cavalcaders and Friends are welcome.

Along the Blue Ridge and Skyline Drives:

Sept. 12 & 13th. Lodging is at the Comfort Inn River Ridge, at Ashville NC . For Reservations call (828) 298-9141 group rate $75.00 includes hot breakfast. Rides are to Chimney Rock, Mount Mitchell , and Mount Piscah

Sept 14th, We will be at the Comfort Inn in Lenoir , NC . For Reservations call (828) 754-2090, group rate $56, dbl occupancy. ~ Ride to: Blowing Rock

Sept 15th, We stay at the Days Inn in Bedford , VA. For Reservations call (540)586-8286, Group rate $50. ~ Ride to Natural Bridge

Sept16 & 17th  We are at the Quality Inn Skyline Drive , Front Royal VA. For Reservations call (540)635-3161, group rate $63.75, double occupancy. ~ Ride the Shenandoah Valley

Rides for the different locations are still being put together so if you have any suggestions, contact me. ~Larry:


rides in ontario , canada this summer

Ride 1: June 24, 25, 26, Trenton Ontario-one hour from Toronto, east on highway 401 on the shores of Lake Ontario Our goal is $1,000,000 this June., a fundraiser and ride for blindness, factory demo rides, bike flea market, 5000 bike mass ride, bike shows, bike games, bands and camping join the fun.

Ride 2: July 5-9, Collingwood Ontario location for the first annual northern bike week (trying for a Daytona)-100 miles north of Toronto party, camping, rides, games and lots of fun.

Ride 3: August 13, Burlington , Ontario fundraiser, prizes and tour for breast cancer research



If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event

of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group, send the information to and it will be posted in the next issue of this newsletter.





I saw on the so-it-yourself part of that you can make your own windshield out of Lexan or Plexiglas. I found some pretty cheap at home depot, and thought about replacing my hard to see though piece of plastic, but I got to thinking about the shape. How would you go about getting it to shape like the OEM shield? ~Jim


I made my own windshield, for the main reason that I didn’t want to spend $140 on a Precision Plastics one, and the stock one is just to short for my tall lanky body.  I used 1/8" Lexan, which is much more durable then Plexiglas, and it can be hand bent to conform to the Cade. The attachment screws is all that keeps it bent or arched, and even with it being 4 inches taller, at 70 mph going past semi's, it has no problem holding its form. And from the research I did, Lexan will not shatter apart from a normal object hitting it that one would encounter on our travels.  I'm sure if something more then a pound or two hit it while going 70mph, it might break, but then so would any other windshield. You can go to my web pages below to see the shield I made.  ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX



Be very careful when jacking this bike up its front heavy. Once the centre stand is off the ground it’s a danger .I have a heavy duty motorcycle jack the scissor type, I still do not feel happy with this on its own. I also attach heavy duty straps to the hand rails and attach to chain lift ratchet attached to an RSJ across my garage just in case the bike goes over. We have an unstable object here treat it with much respect. ~ Glen , England


I have a motorcycle jack but even then I am not happy with jacking it. Along with the safety issue there is the exhaust pipes as well that can get damaged easily. I came up with another way of lifting the bike that is 100 % safe and no chance of damage to either the bike or myself. I have a strong support through a couple of the beams overhead in my garage. I attach a chain hoist to that. I remove the seat and use a strap on the heavy side rails. I lift it from above with the small chain hoist. Then I block it underneath as a safety precaution. This works very well. ~Clarence ... 1986 Cavalcade ... Nova Scotia



Does the VIN number hold any information as to the COLOR or trim? (Like ya know the fifth number is the color the 6 number is whatever as in an automobile VIN number. Was jest a wondering. ~Old COOT n Maryland

No.  I struggled like crazy to figure out if there is some kind of mathematical relationship between the 9th digit of the VIN and the order it came off the assembly line. The ninth digit is the one between the A and the G (if '86 model year) or the H (if '87) or the J (if '88). The rest of the digits are the same except the last four, which are assigned in the order they came off the assembly line. The ninth digit has 11 choices, 0 thru 9 or X. I used my statistical toolbox trying to figure out what that formula might be. It stumped me. Then I learned that those numbers are randomly generated at the factory so there is no function. That was a relief, knowing I wasn't really losing my touch. So there is NO information about the bike's color in the VIN number. If that digit carried color info, then any evil-doer could figure out what the ninth digit was supposed to be from the color.

If the local constabulary recover a stolen bike and suspect the VIN has been altered, they can call Suzuki and see if the ninth digit matches the last four. A VIN-altering perp has only a nine percent chance of guessing the right ninth digit to match the last four. 

Then I realized that there is a good reason for keeping the VIN list out of the public domain: if the afore-mentioned evildoer were to attempt to alter a VIN number to create a bogus title on a stolen bike, then he could know what the factory-assigned ninth digit should be on the VIN number he was creating. So back when we were agonizing over making the VIN list public domain and finally decided not to, it was accidentally the right choice. I hadn't thought of that angle back then, but now I am. The public domain version of the VIN list doesn't have the ninth digit, only the last 4, which contain no coded info.

So cool! Another reason to have your bike on the VIN list.  If anyone ever has a Cade stolen (has a Cade ever been stolen?) then we have an additional tool for recovering it, since any perspective buyer could check the list before handing over the check. ~Spike



I need some feedback from those of you who use or have been using {for sometime} the battery tender. This is my first time that I have ever used a battery tender in all my years of riding. I would usually just wait till the weather broke; put a charge on the battery and the way I would go. According to the instructions you get with the tender, they say to make certain to check the water level in the battery at least once a month. I can relate to this. However, I have been adding approximately 20 - 30 ml of distilled water usually every 3-4 weeks. My question is ---- is this normal or does a lot have to do with the outside temperature?? I keep the Cade in the garage but the garage is not heated. ~Joe in PA


Do you actually have a "Battery Tender", or are you using a trickle charger??  The Battery Tender is a float charger, meaning when the battery is fully charged, it won’t charge 100% of the time, and instead it will kick on and off only enough to keep the battery charge full.  A trickle charger gives a constant small charge as long as its plugged in, which will "boil" the water out causing the water level to go down. ~Brian in IN,


Battery Help

I had to replace the battery in my 86 LXE.  I picked up an AGM type battery at Advance Auto.  Unfortunately, even though it shows as an exact replacement it does not have the battery monitor lead.  Without this lead a battery icon shows up on my dash display.  Is there a way that I can defeat this, or do I need to take the battery back and go someplace else….. ~Phil, Sunny Courtland , MN


If your battery has caps for adding water, take either of the middle caps out and put the sensor in there. If the hole is too small, you can drill it out to fit. OR just hook the sensor wire directly to the positive battery post. ~Brian in IN



I did a lot of work to my bike this winter.  What I am trying to find out is did I change the output to the bike.  While running it today I marked down the speed and rpm of the bike.  What I would like to know is am I in the ballpark the bike suppose to be turning?  60 mph at 3400 rpm ~ 65 mph at 3600 rpm ~ 70 mph at 3900 rpm ~Mike C. ‘86LX

I have found out that when my motorcycle is running really well and with the new Barnett springs in the clutch that the speed versus rpm is about 2:1.  In other words at 70 mph my tachometer is reading 3500 rpm, etc., etc.  Therefore, you are in the ball park with the readings below.  ~Tom (1986 LXE  in Alabama )


Horn Connection

Well, when it comes to electrical stuff, I am dumber than a rock.  I bought some new horns and now have to run them through a relay as they draw more current than the fuse will allow.  There was a discussion about this in the past and I printed it out, but I still cannot figure out how to connect the wires to the relay.  I have a SPST relay (one with four terminals).  The wires from the horn switch are green and black with a white stripe.  The wires going to the horns are green and orange with a green stripe.  Can someone be so kind as to tell me SPECIFICALLY what wires I need to cut and what wires I need to connect to the relay?  I am sorry, but I have not had any luck with the general information. ~Tom (1986 LXE in Alabama )

Relays are easy to hook up. You will run a fused wire from the battery to power the horns, then a ground wire from the frame. Then cut the wire going to the horns now and run it to activate the relay, and the 4th wire from the relay goes back down to the wire going to the horns. It's that easy...  LOL ~Brian in IN


OK - a relay is basically a switch triggered by an electrical source. Does your relay have the standard markings on its four terminals? Should say (85) (86) (87) and (30) ~ to simplify it, the two wires that DID lead to the horn will get connected to terminals (85) and (86). (O/G is access power; G is a switch loop to ground) New horn to (30) and fused 12 volts to (87) ~ I don't think you'll actually need to CUT the original wires. They're female spade terminals, right? They'll fit most relays. If the relay is mounted near enough, just connect them. You will need a new fused 12 volt wire, though. Use silicone dielectric compound on all connections! ~Ed


Thanks for the information.  Sorry, but I am still confused.  I am sure you are saying it right, but I can't understand.  The relay does have the four terminals marked as you say.  What I understand is the two existing wires to the horns (green and orange with a green stripe) get connected to terminals 85 and 86.  I am going to cut them and connect them to the relay.  The other end is connected to the horns.  Power wire (a new one I will run from the battery) will get connected to terminal 87.  If I am going to use the original horn button, what now?  Again, the original horn button is green and black with a white stripe.  What, if anything, do I do with those?  ~Tom (1986 LXE in Alabama )


The horn button switches the GROUND circuit. The black/ white wire goes to chassis ground, the green wire leads to the horn. The orange/ white wire at the horn is accessory power & is live whenever the key is on. When you press the button, you complete the circuit and the horn sounds. To change the circuit as described you won't need to
change anything at the switch, only at the horn connections. ~Ed


DON'T CUT ANYTHING!  This is so easy anyone can do it…

1) Connect one pair of the original horn wires to terminals to 85 and 86 on
the relay. When you do that, the original horn button will now cause the
relay to click each time you press the button. Try it, it's fun. Click, click, click, click. Just tape up the other pair of horn wires.

2) Run a fused wire from the positive battery terminal to one of the other
terminals left on the relay. Doesn't matter which one.

3) Run a wire from the ONLY REMAINING TERMINAL on the relay to one of the
terminals on both horns.

4) Run a wire from the ONLY REMAINING TERMINAL on each horn to ground.

5) Honk to your delight.


~ Tracy

Step by step - remove original horn. You'll have four wires to unplug, two to each horn. Two are green and two are orange with a green stripe. You'll use one of each color, so tape back the other one of each color.  Connect remaining green and orange/green wires to the relay terminals marked (85) and (86) using the existing wire ends (if possible).  That's it for the original wiring - no cutting required. At this point, the horn button IS connected
to the new relay.

Run new fused power wire to relay terminal (87). Run wire from relay terminal (30) to new horn. Horn may
have two terminals marked (+) and (-), if so connect to the (+). The horn's (-) terminal gets connected to
any nearby ground. (I didn't mention that earlier, sorry). Route all new wire carefully so that it does
not get damaged later by any moving parts.

One other vital thing - make sure that the new wires, horn, and relay CANNOT interfere with the motion of
the triple tree or any other steering parts!!  ~Ed


Hi Big D.  I have the same problem as you are.  It's annoying sometime, but nothing too serious.  I have found the trouble to be in the ignition switch.  I guess the contacts don't do right or something.  I have found that just pushing and tugging on the wires coming from the ignition switch fixes the problem right then.  And normally I do not have the problem for some time after.  ~Tom (1986 LXE in Alabama )


I had the same problem and replaced the switch with a new one from Bike Bandit.  No problems now.  Here is an e-mail from HeyJerr that I saved about the switch and how he fixed his. ~Kirby, 86 LX, Topeka , Ks.


For anyone experiencing an odd ignition switch problem, pull it out of the bike and take a look to see if the inserted electrical portion is loose.  There are three plastic tabs that hold this into place.  Those tabs can easily lose their grip.  If they won't hold even after you push it back, put a zip tie around the base of the switch and pull it really tight.  This should be just enough to allow the tabs to grab again. ~ I had the same problem for years where the key had to be jiggled so much to get the radio to work that I would sometimes shut off the bike.  This is very easy to fix. ~HeyJerr, 86 LXE


Rubber Seals Around Body Parts

I am in the process of repainting the bike and am finding many of the rubber seals found in such places as between the saddles and the side bumpers, or around the rear fake fender and the rear bumper have hardened.  Can anyone suggest a good replacement? ~bew1954


If they're hardened but not cracked, you MAY be able to bring them back to life with lube. Our shop (a Ford dealer) uses plain old spray silicone on rubber weather strips to moisten & maintain them. Of course, they seldom work on older vehicles, but I've used it on classic cars with decent results. Or there's probably other products out there specifically for weather strips, I just don't know which to recommend. Worth a shot! ~Ed


Door edge molding from the local auto parts store may work for you. Did you try Suzuki? ~Mark






cade won’t start

This is from a friend of mine who has a Cade......He put it away for the winter and now it won't go........lots of battery power..........fuel pump won't even kick in .any ideas? ~Jer


It's the starter switch. Take it apart and take out the dimple in the brass contact and clean it with some fine sandpaper. Put a thin film of silicone grease on it when you put it back together. It's probably not the clutch switch. That doesn't affect the fuel pump running unless the switch was making contact all the time and if that was the case then the starter would run but the fuel pump wouldn't. Most likely, it's the start button. Caution small parts and spring inside. Use care. ~ Tracy



Standing still with my front brake on, I can pull up and push down on my handle bars and the front of the bike bottoms out. What is happening and what is the remedy? ~Bent, ’86 GTG


You ain't got enough oil in the forks. Either that or you're a big-ass boy. Springs can weaken slightly over time but the most likely culprit is that you've lost oil in the forks over time and the level's too low. The oil is a portion of the spring since it compresses the air above it. Better do a full on rebuild and check the slider bushings for wear. I did two sets of forks this weekend and was shocked at how bad the Teflon coating was worn off the bushings of both sets of forks. One only has 25K and I don't know about the other set but they were both worn to the base metal of the bushing. Much further and the bushings would have eaten out the inside of the fork lowers and trashed them. ~ Tracy


Are you saying that to ride with low fork oil level in one leg for instance over a short period of time could lead to severe fork wear? ~David


Well, that's not exactly what I was saying but low fork oil can lead to premature wear of the upper bushing if it doesn't get any lube. Running with low fork oil is just a bad idea all together. The forks are mushy, compress too easily, etc. Also, most of the oil that I poor out of forks is super dirty. I don't think it gets changed near often enough and that may be part of why the lower bushings wear so badly. Since it's a fairly small amount of oil and there is no way for it to be filtered, all of those little bits of wear material are floating around in there and just cause things to wear faster. That's part of why I install drain and fill screws on forks that I rebuild if the owner wants them. That way, changing oil can be done with the forks on the bike in just a short time. ~ If you've got a leaker, better fix it. Let it go too long and you'll trash the lowers and wear deep grooves in the inners where the slide in the upper bushings. You can de-groove the inners but if they're too deep the grooves get below the chrome and then they're trashed. ~ Tracy


connection behind faring

   I just put my 1986 Cavalcade back together had it running, ready to go to the Gas Station and then out on the road for a little test. The bike quit, lights still on, pulled in the clutch hit the starter- --nothing, wiggled the wires from the fuse box going up into the faring and I had fire then nothing.  Where the heck does this bundle of wires go in the faring that causes this intermittent problem?? ~Dennis, Shelton , WA


The problem is more with the connection to the fuse block rather than the wires. I would unplug it and clean the connections well (undo negative battery terminal first), tighten them (you can bend the female half a little to put more pressure on the male tab) and reassemble with a little silicone connection grease. ~ A fairly common problem. ~ Tracy



Tracy , I have to pump the front brake lever at least twice the first time I engage the front brake then it is alright for the rest of the day. If I don't use the front brake for awhile, it is like it has air in it soft and spongy. I can pump it up but prefer not too for obvious reasons. I have bled the whole system by the book with a hand vacuum pump down and each bleeder valve and at the fitting at the rear/front of the master cylinder. During the process I went until I saw no more bubbles and the fluid was clear-flushed with DOT 4 new fluid. Did I miss something or do I need to rebuild the master cylinder? If so do you offer a re-build kit? ~Keith

You have a seep at a connection or at one or both of the calipers. There's a little fluid leaking out and the first couple of pumps are filling everything back up. I doubt that it's the master cylinder. You can rebuild it, but I don't think that's your problem. If you put on the new lines, check all of the connections for tightness and make sure there is no wetness at any of them. You can usually tell if you have a caliper leaking by pulling back the dust boot (caliper off and pads out). If there's white crusty stuff around the piston, then you have a seeper. ~ Tracy


There is also a hole in the bottom of the clutch reservoir that if it plugs does the same thing. It's the self-adjuster hole the one that pumps fluid back into the reservoir. This might be a good time to flush the system. Remember brake fluid eats plastic and paint. ~Mark


Just for accuracy, it's not a self adjuster hole; it's an air bleed hole. When the piston is fully retracted, there is no pressure ahead of the piston and that hole is there to ensure that all of the air ahead of the piston can escape. ~ Tracy



I have a heavy sidecar on my Cade and was looking for advice on brake pads that would stop well with as little fade as possible. What do you suggest? Oh yea, it would be nice if they didn't squeal. ~Jim


My personal favorites are the SBS ceramic. Don't bite as hard as the EBC HH pads but don't squeal near as easily either. I personally think they're a little easier on the discs, too. Of course, for the ultimate in braking, the EBC HH are hard to beat. ~ Tracy



I have had a problem with my clutch. It will tighten up, and I will have to crack the bleed valve to let the tension off the clutch, It happens every 100 miles. I was told that my master cylinder went bad, Any ideas where I can find a used one??? ~Larry   


The vent in the cap is plugged. Take the cap off the master cylinder and clean the vent hole. It gets plugged with gook. As the clutch wears, it moves fluid into the master cylinder so the vent has to work to prevent a pressure buildup. If that works, tell whoever told you that the master cylinder went bad to dole out bad advice to someone else. But, if it doesn't work, then you can tell me I doled out bad advice. However unlikely that is. ~ Tracy


clutch slippage



I think this sounds like a plugged vent in the cap or the bleed hole in the master cylinder is plugged. Either can lead to pressure building in the system. I still suggest Barnett springs for EVERY Cade. They prevent slippage under almost any condition possible with dino or synthetic oil. ~ Tracy



I need advice on how to trailer my Cade. What do I use for attach points for tie-down straps? What is the best way to get the beast on and off a trailer? Any suggestions would be appreciated...the last thing I want to do is to break something or drop it in the process. ~Rick, ‘87 LX, Oshawa , ON


Advice on how to trailer? The best (and as far as I'm concerned the only) place to connect the tie straps is to the lower triple clamp. I bring the hook from behind the fork and over the triple clamp and hook it over the front. The straps then come from behind the forks and forward to connect to the trailer. I recommend a couple of bits of wood or angle iron, one on each side of the front tire to keep it from flipping side to side. They can be on the floor of the trailer or on the front rail. You just need to keep the tire from wanting to flip to the side. If you want to get fancy, there's a readymade wheel loop that you can buy for $40ish that bolts to the trailer. Use high quality straps with good beefy ratchets. You don't need trucker size straps, but don't go for the $5.95 specials. Wal-Mart and AutoZone sell some nice straps for about $20 a pair that are quite good. ~ Suck them down good and the beast won't go anywhere. The connection points on the trailer need to be pretty substantial and far enough apart to form a nice triangle with the straps. Not too far apart as the straps will hit your plastic. If you want, you can put a couple of cheap straps from the saddlebag frame to the trailer but they will only keep the ass-end centered and are not needed to keep the bike on the trailer. ~ Tracy




Dayton , OH

I have a blue/blue Cade, 1986, with less than 28,000 miles on her for sale. My real Lady decided she wanted something more ... 'fixable' and we got a GW recently. ~ The Cade is in need of cosmetic work, but I have purchased roughly $1000 in parts to make this happen ( Tracy can confirm the part orders if needed), however, I do not have the time or the skill to get it done properly. The rear tire has 2500 miles on it, the front 5000 miles. The radio and cassette work, the CB does not. She was fully serviced in Jan. 2004 and has had about 2500 miles put on since that servicing. I am asking $3000 for the CADE and to not lose money on the parts, $4000 total. ~ Lee Maile

Anyone interested, please reply to my email:


North Carolina

Cade with a Side Car. My ‘86 LX w sidecar is for sale. 43k T plug Barnett springs new battery fresh paint on car with Cade emblems front and rear, radio just been rebuilt. ~Mike in NC Email:


Bushtec Cargo Trailer

I've got a Bushtec cargo trailer, hitch and wiring harness for sale. I pulled it with my '86 Brown on Brown Cade and have decided to see if anyone else could use it. There is a cooler on the front and has new tires. I'm asking $1800 obo. ~ Have a grand riding day...Steve Email:



My wife and I put money down on a new K1200 LT BMW.  Because of that we will be selling our 1986 Blue on Blue LXE and I thought that I would let the group know in case anyone was interested. I lost the latest pictures we had of her when the old computer crashed, but I will get some take again when I get back from this weeks trip, if anyone is interested. ~Ken & Ann 1986 LXE



Washington State

I have a nice, low mile (23,000) Cavalcade located in WA.  I would like to sell it for only $3000.  Can you do me a favor and spread the word to any prospective members/owners.  Its a GT, so it's not pimped out, just in nice condition. John Gould 360-658-9389


Harrisburg , PA

86 LX tow tone brown with 63,700 miles. I am the second owner. I did the secondary seals this winter with the Cade cork and Barnett springs. It has floorboards and heel toe shifter. New slipstream windshield and battery 1 month ago. Garage kept since new. Everything works including cruise and the air compressor. Radio and intercom work, however I don't know about the cassette simply because I think the last cassette I owned was in the late 80's. Included are the 2 original helmets (not in great shape), the helmet bag and the bag liners for the 2 side bags. The original helmets have one working intercom, the other helmet has intercom missing. Bike cover. Very clean with no oxidation of paint or chrome. Fresh NGK spark plugs new factory air filter. (Plugs were 13 each and the air filter was 35.) This bike is not one of the neglected basket cases that will require much moolah to get it nice.

This is ready to ride right now. All for $3700.00 in green cash. ~ Kevin, Email:


Greenville , NC

I may have to sell my 86 Cade LXE to pay for a divorce, I’m just seeing if anyone is interested in the group....asking $2,500 for it...hate to sell it!!!!! It has about 36,000 miles on it. Just drove it round trip to De...about 650 miles....Larry, Email:



I still need to sell my Cade. It's a 1986 blue on blue LXE. It has 38311 miles and runs good. Radio and CB works. I'm only asking $2500.00 OBO. “thewire1969" Email:



1987 GL cavalcade 2 tone silver 43,000 miles on it. All the toys tool kit, luggage bags, CB, 2 head sets in great shape, runs like deer. I need to sell it quick $3500.00 firm. 607-324-2684 or cell 607-368-2684 ~Homer & Marg Email:




Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

Copyright © 2000-2013  All rights reserved