SUZUKI CAVALCADE OWNERS GROUP NEWSLETTER
Last summer the Cavalcade community lost a champion. PHIL RADMORE was a
genius on Cades (similar to
Ride 1: June 24, 25,
26-trenton Ontario-one hour from
WISCONSON CADE OWNER LIST
putting together the list of Wisconsin Cade owners and a few others surrounding.
If you don't want to be on the list, please let me know and I will delete your
information. This will only be shared with the people on this list and only with
their consent. This info will be used to inform you of the Wisconsin Cade Raid
and any other rides that may be offered. You may also find that there is a Cade
owner near you that you may want to contact.
I do have 24 Cade owners on my
~ TRIPS AND TIPS ~
wanted to share this with everyone; I had something rather unsettling happen
this weekend. I sold one of my Gold Wings on EBay last week, and the auction
closed Sunday evening. The bidding got spirited towards the end, and I was
pretty pleased with the result. The winning bidder contacted me promptly, sent
the deposit I had requested, and we made arrangements for him to pick up the
bike next week.
night I received an email from the second highest bidder, asking if it was
really true that I was offering the bike on a "second chance offer"
has available. Fortunately, he had asked a question about the bike during the
auction and he had my email address from my response. Since the email addresses
didn't match, he sent the response back to my address, along with a copy of the
email that he had received. I told him forward everything to EBay
investigations, since this was obviously a hoax.
what I understand this is becoming more of a problem. I figure there are a
couple of things that I have learned from this. First, be very wary of second
chance offers. Make double sure that any second chance offer is legit. The other
thing I won't do any more as a seller is answer questions without keeping my
email address private. These con artists will only get savvier as time goes by,
and if one would ask a question and obtain the seller's email address, he could
use it to spoof the return address and make it look more legitimate. Fortunately
the scam looked suspicious enough that the intended victim decided to try to
check it out further. Had he fallen for it, he could have easily been out the
$500.00 deposit, minimum.
contacted the other bidders on my bike to warn them what happened; just wanted
to give you guys a general heads up in case you hadn't heard of this.
purchased things on second chance offers in the past, but this gives me pause...
GRIMLIN AT WORK
was out riding around the other day. I pulled over to take a break and stretch a
moment. When I fired my bike up and headed down the highway, I noticed that
there was no sound coming from the speakers. Also my neutral light was on. When
I turned the radio off, the light went out. I repeated this several times for
another 25 miles I'd turn the radio on, no sound, and the neutral light would
stopped in a little town to get some gas. When I rolled out...everything was
back to normal (???) Radio was playing fine, no neutral light. Has anyone else
experienced this? Is my bike trying to tell me something?? I thought I'd put
this out the group and see what kind of feedback I'd get. ~ Feelin' the Breeze;
BigD in MidTN,'86 XLE
SWITCHING TO XENON
right, I've looked, what is the retail model number of the headlight? I know it
is a 12V 60/55w. I want to switch to Xenon light. ~Don
It's a standard H 4 motorcycle headlight bulb. I have put a rare gas bulb in my
Harley (which also uses the H 4) and you can tell the difference.
In my HD, I installed a 60/55 watt PIAA bulb that puts out the equivalent
of 135/80 with seemingly the same heat output. Some of the high wattage bulbs
require a metal socket base due to the heat, but the PIAA bulb seems to be
They cost a little more (approx $40) but it's an easy way to add more
light. I have heard they are
difficult to install on the Suzuki unless you have a small hand, but I'm going
to try when I get the time. They’re available from Dennis Kirk or J&P
Cycles. ~William Calvin
kind of glue do you use to reinstall the tabs on the side panels? ~Dave,
brown ‘86 LX
What works best is
to drill a hole into it so you can install a screw from the bottom side up into
the tab, then use epoxy and install the screw. This will hold up longer then
anything else. ~Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX
had to re-attach the Tabs on my 81 850 GSL, same tabs. I used a GOOD "Super
Glue" and let it sit for almost two days.
The second time I did this, I used a 2-Part Epoxy, much better results.
Its ABS plastic and
I use ABS glue. Works fine. ~Red
they're the tabs that go into the seat, please just leave them off. ~
lubrication and additives
all the talk about oil additives, I just had to throw in my two cents worth. Pal
Oil makes a product called Desert Pal. I put some in my truck when I changed the
oil and went from 12-13 mpg to 17-18 mpg. The temp hand started riding at a
considerably cooler temp. Sorry, didn't notice the wheels going faster at the
same engine speed... (G)
have been unable to find a distributor selling this stuff and Pal Oil only sells
by the case. If anyone on here wants to become a distributor, let me know as I
am ready to buy more.
also makes the best penetrant I have ever tried and I have tried many. I thought
Kroil was the best penetrant you could get until I tried the Pal. As good as
Kroil is, the Pal beats it. I have tried several others of their products with
excellent results, but the Desert Pal the penetrant really stand out.
have a sliding glass door that decided not to slide any more. I tried all kinds
of "slick'em" on it. They would make it slide for a day or two, the
best maybe a week. Then I sprayed it with Fluid Film, lasted about 8 months
had to put more. It is a spray like WD40 but so much better that they are not
even in the same class. It works great on places on the Cade that need a little
am not affiliated with any of these products, just like to pass on info about a
good thing... ~hitekrednek
This is the website
which I contacted and they say they sell PAL products in individual quantities.
am trying to put a set of HD mufflers on my Cade to get a little more noise. I
believe some in the group have done this. My problem is the HD mufflers don't
have the indentation at the swing arm like the stock mufflers; it seems that
swing arm will hit the mufflers going over bumps. Did anyone else have this
problem and how did you solve it? ~PhilM
Phil, You are over thinking the
problem. Do what I did! Take the mufflers out. Cut the baffle out a couple
of inches before it bevels into the bottle neck. replace it with a chromed wide
mouth baffle you’ll get the most awesome deep sound at low
and high rpm (added benefit you'll improve your gas mileage) I can sell you
a set but it will be cheaper to do it your self or have it done at your local
muffler shop (parts and labor max a $100.00) the muffler is easy to take off
just 3 bolts . Don’t take the exhausts off the
cylinders just the mufflers. the bracket that hold it is under
the passenger foot rest (well under the engine) but you know what I mean 2
bolts the 3rd one is near the shock absorber it only takes 10
minutes max. I swear I get compliment from everyone especially from HD riders
I have had problems
with my radio receiving FM signals. This problem is now solved. If anyone
has the same problem then first thing to do is get to the top printed circuit
board and replace a 16volt 220uf capacitor, position on diagram C31. The colour
of the capacitor is light blue. Make sure that you insert it the right way
round as it will explode if inserted wrongly. ~
installed the antenna on the dash in the corner where the windshield meets the
dash and ran the cable under the fairing. I have used Velcro to make an
attaching point for the radio just above the map pocket on the left side of the
fairing. Since the radio is not water proof I can take it off with ease. I
fished the power cable over from the fuse block thru the false tank cover. If
you don't use the map pocket and after you learn what channel you will be
listening too the most you can put the radio in the map pocket... I use the
cassette adapter for the bike. Remember once activated anyone can
"borrow" the radio. If I am not riding then I don't leave it on the
bike. ~Keith "86
HEATER? YES, THE CADE HAS A HEATER!
read somewhere that there is a heater? The article said, under the false gas
tank, reach in through the black, plastic,
triangle piece and there is a lever???? Any idea?
There is a heater vent door on each side. When you reach in through the triangle
under the faux tank on each side, you will feel a tab on the slide doors towards
the front. Or take a light and look in there, you will see them. ~Jerry, Wisc.
There are two vents, one on
each side of the engine. You can put your hand in through the black
plastic triangle piece and you should feel a "tab". This tab
opens and closes the door. When the door is open, which allows the engine
heat to come through the fairing, the tab is towards the outside of the
motorcycle. It is pretty much even with the opening in the black plastic
triangle. Let us know if you find it. ~Tom (1986 LXE in
SPRING RIDING IN THE GREAT WHITE NORTH (
temperature here in
took it out for just a short 15 km test ride and everything worked just fine. No
clutch slipping. didn't have to pump up the brakes to make them work and no
drips under the old machine. Pretty good for a 19 year old bike with only 110k
km on it. I can't decide whether to keep it and keep riding it until I can't fix
it (haven't really had to fix much on it since I bought it in '86), or sell it
and get a new bike that I can get parts for. I'll bet a new bike would not last
as long as a well maintained Cavalcade. ~Mike in
Sell or not to
sell, that is the question. Maybe do what I have done. Since you can't get very
much for the Cade, buy a new one for most riding and keep the Cade for what it
is best at, long distance rides. Takes the wear and tear of daily riding off of
the Cade and make it last longer. I put over 13,000 miles on the Cade last
year. And when it needed repair, I didn't ride until it was done. Hate that!!!!
My little garage is
overly full with my two and my son's bike but, it all works out. Sometime, if
someone really wants the Cade, maybe I'll sell it. Until then, I have the best
of two worlds. Everybody knows two bikes are better than one. Some people out
there feel 3, 4, or 5 bikes are even better, but I have to draw the line
somewhere. Even "Spiker" has his bike limits. ~Red
not a bad idea. Get the new bike anyway and ride the Cade until it is no longer
practical to do so. I don't know if I could convince Lynda that we need two
bikes in the garage though. The new BMW's sure look nice. ~Mike (Editor’s
Note: “They ride nice too, Mike. They really, really do ride nice!)
recently purchased an ’87 Cade LXE in extra fine condition. It came with two
OEM helmets with head sets in excellent condition. The inside of the helmets are
deteriorating and I was wondering if there is a place that rebuilds helmets. Or,
can I do it? ~
helmets should be relegated to decorative items only. Put them on a shelf and
display them but don't wear them. Helmets have a limited life and should be
replaced from time to time. They may look pretty but I wouldn't trust my head in
ARE NEW GOLD WINGS BETTER THAN CADES?
Small wrote: the real reason that I don't buy that Gold Wing is that there are
things on the Cavalcade that are not on the Gold Wing.
has a more cruiser-like seating position, while the seating position on the new
wings are more ‘sporty'.
And there is the gear
position indicator that is really helpful sometimes. We have the air
adjustable seats, both rider and passenger. Vanity mirror at no extra
charge. These are just a couple of things that come to mind. One
really nice thing is that we are a V-4 and the Gold Wing is a straight six.
That extra distance that the Gold Wings 1800 engine sits out there really makes
for a wide spread when trying to get your legs on the highway pegs.
These are just a couple that comes to mind really fast. I believe that
there was a comparison done between the Gold Wing and the Cavalcade. We
have a great motorcycle and considering that it is almost 20 years old, as far
as I am concerned, Suzuki was way ahead of its time. ~Tom (1986 LXE in
Since we have a
number of new members on the group, and there is an ongoing need for Cade
specific mechanical help since the bike shops generally don't want to, just
won't, or charge exorbitant prices to touch one, Jerry had the idea that we
could post names and contact info at suzukicavalcade.com for those that were
willing to offer help or do mechanic work.
The intention is
not to create new careers for anyone (even though some may be up for that) but
to list those that are willing to actually do repair work on Cades (for profit
or not), and those that are mechanically deft that would simply lend a helping
hand to someone in need. These would be listed separately so that someone
that is only willing to help will not be contacted for major repairs.
A common problem is
one that cropped up recently. Guy has a charging system problem, a sticking back
brake and another minor issue. Most of us would simply do it ourselves
because there are easy checks for each of them. Yes, it could turn out that
something actually needs to be repaired but in many cases there are simple
maintenance procedures that will eliminate, for the most part, trips to the bike
shop which can be frustrating and expensive. If there is someone locally to the
guy that can give him some guidance and confidence in doing his own
maintenance and safety checks, that is a huge service.
problem is that of the leaking clutch pushrod seal (supposedly) and the mechanic
wants to charge $2500 for a $200 repair. In this case, another Cader would
necessarily do the work, but maybe just visit the shop with him and give the
mechanic the "what for's" about what's involved and the cost of parts
and such. There's probably some of that happening already but Jerry thought that
making the names and contact info available (as well as the general location)
might provide a very useful service.
This is a
completely voluntary program and you can take your name off at any time if you
feel it's not working out for you. Personally, I like having Cades come
through my shop and welcome more but there is a travel issue that can't be
ignored and it would be helpful to have more regional mechanics/maintenance
buddies to help out those that simply can't haul their bikes to
TO RPM RATIO
did a lot of work to my bike this winter. What
I am trying to find out is did I change the output to the bike.
While running it today I marked down the speed and rpm of the bike.
What I would like to know is: am I in the ballpark the bike supposed to
mph 3400 rpm
mph 3600 rpm
mph 3900 rpm
about right, Mike. However, no matter what you did, unless you made a radical
tire size change (unlikely) or your clutch was slipping severely, you have no
control over the RPM/speed relationship. You can change the power but you can't
do much about a relationship that is fixed by gear ratios and tires size. ~
I have found out that when my motorcycle is running
really well and with the new Barnett springs in the clutch that the speed versus
rpm is about 2:1. In other words at 70 mph my tachometer is reading 3500
rpm, etc., etc. Therefore, you are in the ball park with the readings
below. ~Tom (1986 LXE in
you're doing 3500 RPM at 70 you are running a pretty tall tire. Most are running
closer to 4K.
there a manual transmission or automatic in the car? It makes a big difference.
Sorry, add all the additive you want but you ain't gonna change it in the Cade.
It's all set by gear ratios and tire size. ~
going through the connectors to see why when I hit the > start button
sometimes nothing would happen I found a large green connector behind the
headlight. There is this solid orange wire that looked a little burnt at the
connector. It had gotten warm enough that the orange wire and the red and white
wire below it had fused together at the insulation layer. When I pulled them
apart no wires were exposed. I wrapped electrical tape around the orange wire.
question is what is this orange wire? It looks like it goes into the key
ignition. Second, the connector and wire inside of the plug looked either
severely corroded or burnt. Should I cut the wire out and reconnect outside of
the factory connector? I am not a wiring genius, so that is why I am asking you.
finding this connector, I have only had a minor instance where nothing happened
when hitting the start button. I then just reached up between the forks, wiggled
that connection and bingo, it started up and has since. Does this make ANY
sense?? ~Maury, ‘86 LXE,
orange wire you speak of is probably the main feed from the ignition switch that
is powered when the key is in the on position. Basically, all of the orange wire
on the bike is ignition on power. Red is always power and black or black with
white stripe is ground.
you connect it with the existing connector or do in a separate connector will
have to be your call based on the severity of damage to the original connector.
Obviously, if you can't get it shined and tightened back up to do it's job
properly then you will have to do it with separate connector. At least you found
clutch slave cylinder
is the clutch slave cylinder located on the bike? Is it a hard job to do? Can
you give me a brief walk thru of the task? Do you have the parts needed for the
attached to the secondary drive that has to be removed to rebuild the slave.
It's a pain in the ass but doesn't require a 10 skill level but does require a
12 attention to detail level. I have the parts. Complete kit to do the secondary
R&R, $56 includes all seals. ~
BENT FORK TUBES
can I could get a new pair of fork tubes, I think mine are bent. ~?
Suzuki dealer might be a good starting place. They won't be cheap. A used set
would probably do but they will have to be rebuilt most likely. Or, if there are
no worn areas that have cropped up due to the bend (I had a set that got
scarred), they can be straightened. Bike Bandit shows them still available for
$241 ea. I would have to check but I might be able to beat that by some. ~
RIGHT SIDE NOT FIRING
are 4 coils on the Cade. You need to determine which one it is that's not
firing. Fairly common problem to have one go bad. You can see if it's just where
the cap screws to the wire but many times the coil goes craps and has to be
Let it warm up for 5 minutes and check each exhaust pipe with a little bit of
water spray. You should be able to see the bad one. You can meter out the coils
but it may not tell you much. ~
I hope everyone is
getting ready for summer and getting their Cades out with no problems.
Sadly though, I have an oil leak which seems to be a common problem with me now
days. First, I found the leak around New Year when it was warm enough to
get the Cade out of the cold for a while. I found out it was coming from
the right side case cover and drain plug. Well, I replaced the gasket for
the cover and got a new washer for the drain plug. Took it out riding
today, and found out, I still have a leak. So, I had it run for a while in
the garage and found out it is coming out of the left side case cover, where I
had to replace the stator last year. Now, it did not start until very late
last year, where the stator was already on and working fine. It looks like
it is coming from the area where the wires from the stator are coming out of the
case. That rubber part... Now, I am hoping I do not have to take
that side case cover off again, so I am hoping someone can give me an idea of
what to do in order to fix the problem. If the only option is to replace
the gasket and re-seal the cover, then the only words I can say are "son of
a blank. Let me know soon so I can get back out with it. It is going
to be in the 50s-60s this week, so I will be upset for not being able to ride.
Take the side-cover back off and use a generous amount of gasket sealer around
the rubber grommet. It is a little too small and doesn't compress enough to
provide a seal. Believe me, I know of what I speak.
Use Yamabond or
Suzukibond or the gray import sealer (sold at most auto parts stores). Clean the
area well with brake cleaner ($2/can is fine) and apply generously (not sloppy
generous but so that it will ooze out when the grommet is placed into the slot
in the cover) and where the gasket will sit against it. Reassemble and let it
dry FOR A FULL DAY before starting the motor! This is important. If you try and
run it with the sealer not fully set it will just leak again.
Bite the bullet and
do it right. There's no other way to do it. You can probably reuse the gasket
unless you smeared gasket sealer all over it. ~
THE NEW REG/REC
I have a new Reg/Rec
to install. I finally got all the body panels off the bike to get at it
(sometimes it stinks to have an LXE, but I'm not complaining). My question
is: The main connector from the reg/rec has 2 pigtails, red and orange. On
my bike, the orange is connected to another wire, but the red is hanging freely. Should
this pigtail be connected to something? Or should it be left hanging in the
breeze? I couldn't tell from the picture on T's website. ~Craig,
not used. ~
Craig, Have you
I have 'solder
connected' wires from the black wires on the regulator side of that connector
and connected those wires directly to a good chassis ground point up near
the regulator. That is in addition
to implementing regulator grounding advice, (I did NOT
eliminate this connector) I don't think I have run this
suggestion by the group before, but maybe there will be some good (or bad)
feedback. I see this as a more failsafe protection for the
regulator. Anyway if you decide to do it, while the Cade is open is the time.
~Len, 87LXE, MA
brake disk shims
Tracy, I hold your
knowledge of the 'Cade and mechanics in general in very high regard where-as
I’m only a part time mechanic from mainly a four wheel background, however, I
was always lead to believe that the aforementioned shims were in fact called
'anti-squeal shims' which I had always assumed stopped the pads from squeaking.
I may be wrong and will bow to your far greater subject knowledge and
experience, but I would be reluctant to leave them out.
It would be cool if
those shims would, in fact, control squeal to a great extent but, alas, I think
they fail more often than not.
If you look at the
history of brakes on the Cade you see that Suzuki tried a number of different
things to control brake squeal. In case there are some reading this that don't
know what the squeal is, I will give a brief explain. For those of you that
already know, please disregard.
actuality, is chatter. The reason it sounds like a squeal is because it's
happening really fast but isn't fast enough to be out of the range of hearing of
most of us. Chatter is when the brake pad grabs the disc and travels for a bit
with the disc (since there's some slop in the fit of the pad to the caliper
housing) then it slips and shoots back to the other side of the pad groove and
then grabs again and repeats, really fast. A number of factors (disc
condition, pad condition, pad hardness, slop in the calipers, etc) will
determine whether there will be any chatter, a light chatter, an intense chatter or
only chatter at certain speeds and or lever pressures.
If you look at the
parts book for the Cade, it shows several iterations that Suzuki tried to
minimize or eliminate brake squeal. There were pads with partial shims (causing
the pads to contact the disc somewhat of an angle), shims and the metal
backing on the pads got bigger and they added fairly hard plastic type material
pressed into the center of the pistons. All of these were attempts to
solve a continuing squeal problem with the Cade brakes, mostly the fronts.
But, at the end of
the day, I think it was more due to the configuration of the caliper and the
hardness of the pads. The OEM pads were quite hard and would stick-slip badly as
the pad couldn't get a really good grip on the rotor before it would slip and
start to chatter. Aftermarket pads are generally softer and there's less
tendency for the pad to stick/slip at a high frequency. It's still probably
happening but at a low enough frequency that it doesn't manifest into a
high-pitch squeals. The caliper configuration has a lot of flex in it
during braking. The piston size, by today's standards, is quite large and exerts
a lot of spread pressure on the caliper. This allows the caliper to open-up
and attributes to the stick/slip. Newer calipers use several smaller pistons (2,
3 or 4) so they will spread the caliper less because the centerline of the
pistons is closer to the centerline of the bolts that hold the caliper
together. They also use a narrower disc and pad. This all helps.
The problem with
shims is that they have to be hard enough not to compress under the
pressure of the piston pushing against the pad (causes bad feel at the lever)
but soft enough to actually dampen the sound (vibration) that is generating
from the chatter. I think they fail pretty much in any damping effect since they
have to be so hard and once the pistons push against them, they tend to flare
away from the pad except where the piston is pressing them against the pad. So,
even if they were soft enough to affect some damping/absorption of the
vibration, they don't contact the pad in enough area to actually make much
difference. That's not to say that in some instances they may actually
have some affect, but as a wholesale statement I would say that they work less
often than not.
There are goo’s
that can be spread on the back of pads to help absorb the vibration
(chatter) and dampen it enough to partially or completely eliminate the sound.
However, as with any "fix in a tube", they work sometimes and
other times they don't. In my opinion, pad composition and disc condition is
pretty important. Hard, long-lasting pads will be more prone to squeal so will
glazed rotor surfaces whereas softer pads and unglazed discs will be less
prone. Goo’s work sometimes, sometime they don't. Shims work sometimes and
sometimes they don't.
So, I'm no
disagreeing with you that shims might be referred to as anti-squeal shims nor
that in some instances that they might have some affect. However, I don't
believe that they are as effective as other methods and, unless instructed to do
so specifically, I don't use them.
And, in my typical
fashion, it only took me a couple hundred words to say that. ~
CARB KITS NOW AVAILABLE
Sorry for the
delay, but carb kits are finally available and have been added to the shopping
cart at https://secure.mpks.net/billydump/commerce/default.asp
The kits include
all of the o-rings in the carbs, float-bowl o-rings, intake manifold o-rings,
fuel inlet o-rings, butterfly shaft seals and choke plunger seals. It has been
Jerry and Is experience that if you're gonna do a set of carbs right then
all these rubber bits need to be replaced. The cost of the kit that does
all 4 carbs is $51.50. But, if you want just an o-ring only kit that will be $10
(does all 4 carbs).
Again, I don't
recommend the o-ring only kit as the shaft seals are a primary culprit for
vacuum leaks and the choke plunger seals will do the same (when the choke is on
of course) if they are dried and cracked (which we have seen a lot of).
Unfortunately, I have to buy those bits OEM as there are no suitable
replacements available elsewhere. That's part of the reason they add so much to
the cost of the kits (and the fact that there are 8 shaft seals). The kits will
come with a key sheet showing each size of o-ring and it's location in the carb
and some general rebuild guidelines for carbs. ~
looking for a Cavalcade [reasonably priced]. I presently own an ‘85 1100
Shadow & rode a Cavalcade once and fell in love with it.
I'm 66 years old and would like to get in at least one more road trip on
a bike like this.
If you know of anything like
this I'd appreciate hearing from you.
Sincerely, Gary Brunk e-mail
or phone: 636-789-2938
(Editor’s Note: Because I am so late with
this month’s issue, the bikes listed below may no longer be for sale. I’ve
added the date of posting for your information.)
29,000 miles. Just spent over $400.00 at the dealer getting new front and
rear brakes, brake master cylinder, horns, fuse block, battery, state
inspection. When I bought it, the previous owner installed an am/fm CD player,
so radio controls on passenger seat do not function, or the intercom
system. I have replaced the upper fairing cover, (black plastic) that covers
the right speaker, covers the fuse box, and down the right side of the
fairing. Just had the seat reupholstered looks brand new. Cruise control
doesn’t work, just got a replacement unit, but haven’t had time to
install it. Clutch master cylinder is bad, waiting on one to arrive. Replaced
left and right side chrome covers that are attached under the seat, (I call
them shark fins). I am waiting on the right side engine cover that is chrome.
The master cylinder covers are special ordered. They are chrome with the
cavalcade emblem of the horse and rider, no screws, chrome hex nuts. I
replaced the fake gas tank cover. The one that was on it was cracked.
What needs to
be fixed? Cornering light on right side wont work, however, I have the
relay for it, just haven’t had time to put it on. I need the fuse block cover
replaced. I have the original on, but I used Velcro to take it off and on.
Left black plastic piece the covers from left speaker down to the cushion
controls is cracked, and the right side lower fairing has a crack in it,
but not bad enough to be an eyesore. Bike runs well. Just changed the oil
last month, along with plugs. All these I have been looking for on eBay to
replace. If you want pictures of any angle of the Cade, let me know....the
ONLY reason I may sell it if I get an offer is due to a divorce, and if I
do have to sell it, I will have another one after the divorce is final. ~Larry Kannard.
hate to do this but I have to sell my '86 Cade. It's gold/brown LX in good
shape. New brakes, front calipers overhauled, new front wheel bearings, good
tires, @ 47k miles. I've had some serious mechanical foul-ups on these pesky 4
wheeled critters that I need to tend to, hence the Cade has to go. I've been
asking $3500.00 for her but am looking for reasonable offers. I am located in
1987 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE, Maroon, 31,000
miles, Exec+ Condition
Following items upgraded 2004:
New Clutch, Barnett Springs
New Water Pump & chain
New Upgraded Driveshaft
New Brake Pads
New Tires (Dunlop)
New Wheel bearings
Secondary gearbox upgraded (
New seals, bearings rear gearbox
Replaced all Clutch, Brake, Radiator,
crankcase, secondary & rear gearbox fluids
New Air, Gas, Oil filters
Anti-theft switch installed
New Hydraulic Clutch switch
2 full face helmets/intercom
Extra set Harley Dresser mufflers
Bike never had problems, Garage kept, Upgraded
everything as a project when first got. Runs fine, no leaks, handles great,
electric/audio fine. Have new job, no time to ride. Have to sell and make garage
room. ~John Hlasney, 908-788-9182, Hlasney@patmedia.net
My father is
selling his '86 Cavalcade and I was wondering if you knew of someone that would
be interested in it. Only 40,000 miles ridden. The Cavalcade can be viewed here:
Fowler, phone (715)294-3400; fax
have an ‘86 blue-on-blue LXE with about 39,000 miles. She runs well and I have
no problems taking her out. Her tires are aged but passable, the radio
needs repair and the driver’s seat is split at the seam but still holds air.
Front brake calipers are unserviceable (according to the local Suzuki dealer who
could not bleed them) but still stops. Some body panels are scarred and
loose, map case is in sad shape. She has never been dumped but has fallen
over a few times. She’s been mine since birth, we’ve toured the
1986 LXE / Blue on
Blue / 50,000 miles / Asking $2995
I have for sale a 1987
LXE that runs and drives as good as any thing out there this bike has
progressive fork springs and rear shocks all new inner plastic dash panels new
seat cover it has a fender rail and is equipped with air horns bike also has a
trunk rack this bike was owned by Brian O and is a great ride it also has had
calipers and clutch rebuilt along with braided brake lines along with a Markland
back rest and new paint work will be completed by 06/11/05 it has a CB as well
as a new map case it also has a new oil pan and rear tire Brian put a lot of
money in this bike prior to buying his new wing . I'm asking 2500.00 or best
offer ill even ride it to you if need be..............thanks chopper. Please e
mail me @firstname.lastname@example.org for more info I also have a Vulcan 500 for sale
and a drive on lift for sale as well.
Just to let y'all know
I still have 86 LX with sidecar for sale in western N.C. thx ~Mike Greene;
I have an 86 LX for
sale, 50 000 kilometers, some fairing damage to to the front, otherwise
mechanically sound, new tires, brakes, etc. Asking $4500. Canadian.
For details call 1-866-426-7537, ask for Dan.
I've got a Bushtec
cargo trailer, hitch and wiring harness for sale. I pulled it with my '86 Brown
on Brown Cade and have decided to see if
anyone else could
use it. There is a cooler on the front and has new tires. The trailer is in
Last updated: Wednesday, February 06, 2013
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