The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #20 ~ March, 2002
Jay D. Johnson, Editor


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CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

      CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri . You can visit their web site at


      Plans include exhibits and displays by suppliers; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises. Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.


      You should get your reservation in early. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Owner’s Group meeting (“CADE RAID 2002”) to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a rate of $55.00 per night. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer. The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553. Those who wait until the last minute may have a difficult time finding lodging.



European Cade Raid 2002

June 1st to June 8th. at:

Campingsite-Café in den HOF Sleepingspot the Hayloft.
Holland near border to Germany and Belgium )



Contacts email addresses: B. J. Linbeman for Holland / Belgium

Tommy Karlsen for Norway/Sweden and Finland

David Hebblethwaite for United Kingdom and rest of Europe



Lake George , New York ~ June 3-8th

Cavalcade Riders will meet Friday, 9:00 a.m. at the "OLD" Dairy Queen. It was a batting cage last year. It's right next to the road going up Prospect Mountain . You can start signing up for Americade on line at now. We hope to see a lot of you up there. It is one of the highlights of our summer. Good company.... beautiful scenery and lake and great riding. Get your hotel or camping reservations in now... each year this is getting bigger and bigger.  For details contact Nancy at this E-mail address:



West Coast Caders will gather for a day of riding and admiring each other’s Cavalcades. Everyone should plan to arrive at Tahoe on Saturday evening July 20th. We will have a breakfast meeting from 8 to 10 o’clock on Sunday, July 21st at Mulligan’s restaurant. From 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. , we will take a scenic ride. Spies are in the Tahoe area now who are planning the ride’s route. Everyone will be provided a map just so no one gets lost. We will have a social hour from 6:00 to 7:00 and then dinner. Next morning (Monday) we will head for home.


There is NO cost for this gathering other than the normal cost of gas, lodging and meals. We have a group rate for the breakfast and dinner on Sunday at Mulligan’s restaurant. If you think you will come to the West Coast Cade Raid at South Lake Tahoe , please send me an email ( and give your name(s) and your location. If you want, I’ll see if I can match up riders so you can share the road together. This information will also help me judge how many people we will need to feed at these two meals and how many bikes we will need to plan for the ride.


Riders from Western Washington State and British Columbia will meet at 10:00 a.m. on Friday at the McDonald’s in Fife , Washington . (Take Exit #137 off I-5).





Here are the dates for the Texas Cade Raid; the weekend of May 4th if that’s rained out then May 18th. Locations are still pending and I'm still open for any suggestions. ~ Roy in TX




After reviewing the new VIN list, I thought I’d put together a few interesting facts from it. Of course this is determined by the figures on the VIN list.

Lowest miles on a Cade...Richard Gray...3290 miles

Most miles on a Cade...Wolf...116000 miles

Most miles put on a Cade by single owner...Ray LeTourneau...96825

Least miles put on by owner...Don Dorion...0 miles

# of 86 Cades made...6863

# of 87 Cades made...1136

# of 88 Cades made...416

State with most Cades...3 way tie with California , Washington , and good ole Indiana all having 6

Oh heck...just saw Spike's from Taxifornia, which puts them in the lead at 7

Most common problems with the buttons, secondary seals, secondary plug, and speedo cable. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX



Due to the kindness and unending patience of Virgil Flaherty, there is yet another publication that has been added to the Cavalcade CD-ROM. ~ It is a Technical Seminar Manual. And is about 40 pages of info that appears to have been the training guide for mechanics/sales persons when the Cav first came out. While it doesn't contain any earth shattering surprises, it does have some interesting info on the differences between the Madura and Cav engines. It has general information about the creature comfort accessories that where new with the Cav. ~ As always, I am putting the new file on my download page (it's about 3.9 megs) and you are welcome to download it at ~ It will be added to all new CD orders and the new current CD date will now be March of 2002 (last update was January 2002). For those of you that ordered a CD in the last week, yours will be current with the new file. ~ I want to thank Virgil and all of the Cade owners for their continued support of the CD-ROM project as the most complete resource of information for the Cavalcade. ~ Tracy



In case anyone is interested, I have just started updating my site again. Of particular note is the Cavalcade Section... Simply go to ~ Brian ‘87LXE in CT



I just can't seem to do it! I am no lightweight but I cannot seem to get my Cade on the center stand without help. I know I am missing some trick. There has got to be a way for one man to get that baby on that stand. Anybody have an idea? ~


I had the same problem. I got a piece of 2x6 about a foot long and cut one end at about a 30 degree angle, then put it in front of the rear tire and while sitting on the bike pushed it up onto the 2x6. Once on the 2x6 I get off the bike while holding it up (don't put the bike down the side stand) and then I can easily put it on the center stand. ~ Phil ‘86 LX


I put my left hand on the left grip facing slightly rearward. I then grab the bar just under the back seat where the trigger is that lowers the back step. And then put my right foot on the center stand's pedal. I give it a little push off the kick stand and pull the bar up and push my right foot down real hard and most of the time it jumps right up on the center stand---I push hard and pull hard up ~ Richie


I weigh about 180 and I've always put mine on the center stand, even with a loaded trailer attached. Granted it takes an effort but can be accomplished. I first pull the center stand down with my foot and feel (by rocking the bike from side to side a little bit) to make sure that both spurs on the stand are on the ground. Then as someone stated before, I pull on the arm rest bar and push on the stand with my foot. A bit like spreading it apart. Have confidence when attempting. ~ Clair, Cade 1987


Two by four about six inches long cut the end at a sixty-degree angle and keep it in the trunk. Place it in front of the back wheel or front wheel drive up on it and bingo it's a snap to engage the center stand. Heard about this from one of the gang. ~ Grandpa86

Keep trying guys, I had the same problem but now I'm an expert! Make sure both feet of the center stand are in the ground, stand on the leg and give one, two and three! Also make sure your front tire is straight or a little to the opposite side of where you’re standing. Make sense? ~ Tony in LA LXE ‘86


Maybe there is a difference between the early 86's and the rest of the bikes. There's a doctor in Naples and I can put his up with little trouble. It's an ‘87. Mine, an early ‘86, needs a bit of help. It could be the extra weight of the add-ons and the hitch, (solid steel plate). It could also be that the center stand is maybe a half or quarter inch longer. Facing up hill it's a bit easier. I'm six-foot and 195. So I should be able to lift this monster without creating a hernia the size of Grand Canyon . Mine weighs in at a bit over 819, so it's a bit over stock weight. ~ So how do the smaller guys get it up so easy. Now, don't say it's just because I'm an old geezer and old geezers can't get it up anyway. ~


I had the same problem to pick my bike up. The trick I was giving was to make shore the center stand is on flat ground and to have stand sitting on the two legs. I though I would loose the bike because you have to tip it to the right side to sit on the two legs of the stand. Standing on left of bike, tilt to right until it sits by itself. Right hand on saddlebag bar and left hand on handle bar. As you pull up with the right hand, pull back with left hand. It may take a couple of try, but it worked for me. ~ Don in Mass. D.R.S.


OK here is my experience with the center stand. The first time I managed to get the bike on the stand it took several attempts. When my right elbow and shoulder were well enough for another try I had no problem. I thought I had really built up some strength with the first try. Then someone suggested the 2X6 under the wheel. Got me to thinking.... My theory is that if I had been riding solo the shocks had no air in them ... if however I had been riding 2 up the shocks held the bike up a lot higher, thus making it "easy"  ~ Jim Robe


It's not the Cavalcade that's hard to get up on the center stand. It's the 500 pounds of gear in the trunk and saddlebags plus the 700 pounds of chrome, extra lights and teddy bear hanging on the back end. ~ Jay


For those of you having trouble getting your Cades on the center stand, remember one thing. If you have little or no air in your shocks your bike rides lower so your angle of attack from your center stand is too high making it harder to get the stand underneath the bike. I am 5'9" 195. I get my bike on center every time, and it is usually loaded with junk and accessories. I will admit that sometimes it is harder than other times. ~ Dick Carter, Bay City , Texas


Dear Group, It was the air in the shocks. The sensor was dirty and the pump never came on. Over time the shocks must have lowered a lot as I can easily put the thing on the center stand now. All it took was a bit of a wash job on the lower parts of the bike. Now the bike is so high my girl friend has a hard time climbing up. Gotta get a taller girl friend. Thanks to everyone for the help. ~ Grandpa86



Hi Everyone, I just took a peek at our membership roster. As of today we are 530 members strong. That is a lot of people! I’m guessing only about 5-10% of us are actually talking back and forth in our e-mail exchange and in our weekly live chat room. That’s OK because not everyone feels like contributing all the time but most may enjoy reading what the rest of us are chatting about. Even so, I have an idea which might give those of you who are the silent readers a chance to speak up a little bit. So here is a suggestion I’d like to toss to the group and I’d like everyone who reads this to reply with a response, even if it’s just to say “Yay” or “Nay.”


My suggestion is to schedule times in the live chat room for the various regions of North America to get together. Currently we have set 8:00 p.m. Mondays (Eastern USA Time) for our chat time. Because of the four time zones across the continent, it’s not always easy for those of us in the West to jump into the chat room at 5:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) Mondays. But if we establish set times for various regions to chat it would give more people an opportunity to interact. Here is a sample schedule I dreamed up.



MONDAY 8:00 – 10:00 p.m. ( Eastern USA Time) World-Wide Chat



7:00 – 9:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) Southeastern States

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Central Time) Texas & the Southwest

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) California



7:00 – 8:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) Canadian (In French)

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) Eastern Canada (In English)

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) Western Canada (In English)



7:00 – 9:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) New England and East Coast States

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Central Time) Mountain & Midwest States

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) Northwest States


EUROPEAN CHAT: From 18:00 to 20:00 GMT

MONDAY: English    ~   TUESDAY: Dutch   ~   WEDNESDAY: Norwegian & Swedish


Of course, everyone is welcome to go into the chat room at any time. But the established times should encourage members from specific regions to get together and chat.



I’m just wondering who has the lowest miles on their Cade? Mine is only 9,000 on it, I’ve had her since March 2001, and it had 7,000 then. ~ Tony in LA LXE 86


Well, from the VIN list, Richie from Mississippi only has 3,290 miles on his. ~ Spike




Hi folks, What am I missing with regard to the fella who was having trouble with the secondary seals/driveshaft splines after he went in to have a rear tire replaced? I've replaced my rear tire four times (pull it myself and take the wheel to the dealer for mounting). How would removing the rear wheel dislodge the drive shaft splines? Are we talking about the final pinion gear that mate to the rear wheel pulling out of the shaft? Just wanted to understand this fully. Thanks, Bob L.


Howdy Bob L, The answer to your question is that the drive shaft only comes completely out when you pull it out toward the front of the bike. But it will pull out of the gearbox far enough to come out of the splines and then you have to carefully put it back in while holding the boot back. Obviously someone wasn't very gentle with mine and seal damage did occur. Hope this helps. (I know clear as mud) ~ Frank in Indy


I just finished replacing the seals on my secondary drive unit and I wished that someone had told me how to line up the universal unit on the drive line to get it back into the drive unit. It took me over an hour just to realize that I was doing it all wrong. I finally tried this and it worked for me. Stick two fingers between the boot and the back of the secondary unit. Line up the tip of the spline into the hole where it goes. Then go to the rear of the bike and stick the differential into the back spline and push it up into place while turning the drive gear. What this does is get the driveline in a parallel position with the housing and allows you to push the spline into place. I hope I described this accurately enough. I worked for me when everything else failed. By the way I also bought the Suzuki sealer as described in the manual. It was $18 a tube but I think it was almost worth it. The stuff is actually a silicone gasket maker and the petroleum lubricants don't effect it. I hope this suggestion helps others. I wished someone had told me. ~ Dick Carter, Bay City , TX .



Group, I've just owned my Cade for one year and haven't gotten to ride near as much as I like. Most of my bike experience was years ago on dirt bikes. This is my first Big Bike! I've noticed that the bike has a tendency to wander slightly from side to side on the open road at highway speeds. I don't believe it's caused by the tire tread since it's a herring bone pattern. The bike does not have a super brace, and I was wondering if that might help the issue. The wandering is not serious and doesn't present a problem riding. I just don't know if this is expected of this size bike. Any comments appreciated. ~ Dwayne 86LX


Under-inflated tires will have a huge effect on the Cade's stability. Make sure you have 32psi in the front and 40 in the back. I don’t have a Superbrace and don’t have any problems like you mention. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX


You need to check the tightness/condition of the steering head bearings. If you tighten them and they get a "notchy" feel to them, they should be replaced. Also check the tightness of all front-end bolts and for any free-play in the front wheel bearings. A Superbrace can help and sometimes the stock wimpy-gimpy brace will crack making it fairly useless. Tire pressures (both) will also have an affect. ~ Tracy


Dwayne, If the air pressure is OK and the tires are one of the approved kind with not too many miles on them, the alignment is correct and everything is tight on front end, the bike should ride without wondering. The brace helps, but will not cure the problem, in fact it may just hide it. Read some of the monthly newsletters and search for tires. There is a lot of info about that problem. It has many cures. ~ I had a similar problem and changed to the Dunlop tires. It went away. I'll probably order the brace later for more stability in turns as soon as I get the funds. ~ Grandpa86


I do not have a Super Brace on my ‘87 LXE; however it wandered until I put Dunlop Elete II's on it and it has not wandered since. Tires and tire pressure are important. ~ David Williams Evansville , Indiana 87 LXE


The wandering problem could be due to dented races in the steering crown bearings. The previous owner could have caused that if the front wheel tapped something at about walking speed (or slightly higher). That could dent the races without destroying the forks. Center-stand, then hoist the front wheel and see if there are any catches as you turn left and right. ~ Spike



I would like to know some opinions on another problem.... I have an '86 GT bought it about a year or so ago mileage unknown.... It has run pretty good after carb rebuild and boots replaced.... Also the stator and r/r now having some valve or lifter noise and smoke on the down rev..... My question is that it sounds like a valve job is in order? What about pistons and rings? The next question: parts availability? this something I can reasonably do myself? I love this bike and hate to lay her to rest but I don't want to be bent over by a shop.... I haven’t done a compression check yet.... Does anybody have suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated...hate like hell to go buy a HD.... thanks, ~ Nick


Well, as far as doing it yourself.... Most of it you can with a reasonable amount of mechanical experience.

But, you most likely will be sending out cylinders for boring and heads for valve replacement. In theory if the valves are in decent shape you may be able to lap them yourself...but that may not be the best way to go. OTOH: boring cylinders and valve jobs are not usually very expensive...if parts are available.

If it were me, I'd tear down the top end of the motor and inspect it. Perhaps take the heads in and have a pro checkout the valves if you don't know what to look for. As far as pistons and cylinder, you may not have the proper tools for checking the bore. So you might wanna take that in to. Least of all you can invest some personal sweat equity and get an estimate on the things you can't or do not want to do. ~ Brenden


Nick, Couple of things you might try before you haul off and so something rash. Try changing to a little heavier oil like, a 20-50. That might help quiet down the lifters as they are hydraulic. Also, try a little Marvel Mystery oil in the gas for awhile. It doesn't work magic, but it might help lubricate the top-end and keep the rings and valve stems sealed up a little better to cut down on the smoking. Since it smokes on the down rev, it's probably valve stems. I would also check the crankcase breather hose to make sure it isn't plugged or kinked. Pressure buildup in the crankcase could force oil past the rings and valve stems. ~ Tracy


How much Mystery oil are you guys using to a tank of gas? ~ Virgil


The amount specified in the directions on the bottle. I drop a couple ounces in about every third gas fill up. I also put a couple ounces in the crankcase with an oil change. ~ Brian


Try a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer with your next oil change. The stuff is thick as molasses but works wonders on engines that have "loosened up" over the years, particularly with suspect maintenance. It also swells valve seals, which may be how the oil is getting into the cylinders. If the bike smokes fairly excessively right after starting and tends to taper off after it hits normal operating temp, I'd replace the valve seals only. If the smoke is pretty steady, more than likely a bad cylinder. Of course, your compression test would find that. Good luck, ~ Bob L



I ordered the later model mirrors for my 86 LX (dressed out as LXE) Cade. The mirrors did not come with the two bolts to bolt into the Cade. The dealer had the top bolts but not the bottom bolts. This is #14 on the drawing of handlebars. (Another thanks to Tracy ) Part # 07110-06205 I had to purchase longer bolts. These bolts should be shorter than #13 on the drawing. Therefore I am going to have to cut the two bolts to the correct length. Question -- Does anyone know the length of the bolt? I ask this because I am not good at eyeballing sizes. I cannot look at a nut or bolt and guess the correct size. Anyone's help would be appreciated. ~ Harlan Speidel 86 LX Gold Wharton , TX


Harlan, There are 2 spacers that the bolts must pass through. The longer spacer appears to be on the top and the shorter spacer appears to be on the bottom. Slip the new TOP bolts through the mirror and the TOP spacer, slip the too-long bottom bolts through the bottom hole and the BOTTOM spacer, make the bottom bolts stick out the same amount as the top bolts. Or, call the dealer and simply ASK HIM what the length of a #07110-06203 bolt is. Hey, here's something even easier. Measure the length of the new TOP bolts (from under the head to the end of the thread). If they are just about 1 3/8" then the bottom bolts need to be about 13/16" in length. How does he know all this shit? Well...look at the part number...the digits after the dash. 06 = 6 mm, 20 = 20 mm length, 3 = head style. I think that's right. Tracy


 Another old Indian trick is to put a nut on the bolt before you cut it. Then after the cut, backing the nut off will straighten out any threads you might have damaged in the cut and grind-smooth process. ~ Spike


On my bike, it does hit something after the hole. The bolt has to be cut. Thanks for the info and about the nuts. Been thinking about putting hex head instead of the Phillips head... This one is a hex cap and no room for a socket. Again, thanks for the information.



OK yall' I got my new water pump chain and measured it to give us something to compare to when we are checking the ones on our bikes to see if they need replaced. I measured from inside pin to inside pin to get all the "slope" out, (at maximum stretch) and then added the width of one pin to come up with a center to center measurement to compare to the limit listed in the manual. The new chain measured 2.416" plus the width of a pin, .088" = 2.504". The limit is 2.540" before it HAS to be replaced, meaning the chain can stretch .036" in 10 links before it needs replaced. The chain that was on my bike when I got it measured the same as the new one. I'm not for sure if it is the original or not, but the bike has 47,000 miles on it. So if anyone needs a water pump chain, I have one that is like new. Save this message for future reference, because the manual wasn’t much help for me, but this message says it all. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX



I know there was some debate on re-finishing the front forks. Mine was in desperate need of re-finishing, so I decided to see what I could do. And I am quite satisfied with the results. I started by taking the front wheel, fender, brace, and calipers off. Took about 1/2 hour. I then sprayed on some paint remover, let sit for 5-10 mins. Then cleaned it off. That took off the clear coat and took about 20 mins. I then used 320 grit sandpaper and sanded pitted areas till the pits were gone, followed by wet sanding with 600 grit to remove scratches made by 320 grit. Total time sanding was about 15-20 mins. for 1 fork. I then used polishing compound and a polishing pad in my cordless drill on high speed to polish the sanded area back to a "stainless steel" shine. This took about 10 mins. I will then put on a clear coat to protect it for another 15 years I hope. If you follow these steps, you will be amazed at the difference it makes. So in a day’s time, you can have front forks that look like brand new. I was surprised at how little sanding it took, and how quick I was able to do it all. Hope you find this informative. Oh, BTW, Now would be a good time to lube the speedo cable to assure it don’t break on ya too. ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX


Great job Brian! I had to take mine off to have them rebuild. To take off the remaining clear coat I used a fine de-burring wheel mounted on pedestal grinder. Then I installed on that grinder a 5" buffing wheel and buffed them out. It took me about an hour to do both of them. I am pretty sure your use of fine grit sandpapers helped to polish them out quicker, and give you much nicer shine. Let me tell you, after that ugly, pitting surface I was very happy with my results too! Thanks for sharing your experience. ~ Wojo , Kent WA


The clear coat, what is it? Is it just lacquer? ~ Grandpa86


No it’s not Lacquer. It's Urethane. Just like the stuff that’s put on today’s cars. ~ Brian


Brian, Good update on the fork polishing. I think I will do the same thing. Only I have never before removed the front wheel. I did my stator a few years ago and this group and Eugene got me through that. I want to change my break pads, lube the speedo cable and clean and polish every thing. I'm afraid of screwing up my front wheel causing it to come off while riding it, YIKES! ~ Michael


Michael, The front wheel is not difficult to remove and put back on... As I stated, it took me about a half an hour to remove wheel, brakes, fender, and brace. With all that out of the way, it's a piece of cake doing the rest. Don’t under estimate yourself, especially with the power of this group on your side. Besides, if you want to do all the things you say, you’re almost there anyway. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX


I completed refinishing the forks. I believe they turned out fantastic. We used a urethane clear coat like that used on today’s cars. I believe they should be good for another 15 years. If you want to do this to yours, remember that the surface needs to be extremely clean of oxidation, dirt, oils, polish, etc. for the clear coat to stay stuck to the forks. For a photo via e-mail contact Brian at



Hey Brian Good up-date on the fork polishing. I think I will do the same thing. Only I have never removed the front wheel. I did my stator a few years ago and this group and Eugene got me through that. I want to change my break pads, lube the speedo cable and clean and polish everything. But, I'm afraid of screwing up my front wheel causing it to come off while riding it, YIKES! Michael


I want to try some of the tasks discussed regarding front wheel removal, polishing and speedo parts check and lube, etc. I think I need some way to raise the front wheel to remove it. I don't own any jacks. Perhaps there are some ideas out there for getting the front wheel off without spending a lot of money for a jack? Michael ( La Mesa )


Michael, A jack will be the easiest way. That’s what I did anyhow. You might want to check your vehicles; they sometimes have a scissors jack or screw jack that will work.... Or you can buy a bottle jack for little money. The best place I found to put it is under the engine by the drain plug. ~ Brian in IN ‘87 tt Gray LX


When I pull my front wheel, I use a small bottle jack, and block of wood, placed centered of the front crash bars. Jack it up just enough to allow the front fork struts to fully extend. If you gauge this right you can pull the axle shaft and almost roll the front wheel forward out of the struts. The bike is on its center stand. Remember this as you could possibly force it off if not careful. If you don't have a bottle jack, place the bike on its center stand and pick the front wheel up while an assistant places blocks under crash bar. You might have to pick up slightly to remove and reinsert the axle shaft. Follow your manual directions on removal of calipers, fender, and any accessories you might have on the front forks. Once you have the calipers off, hanging in a wire (to take weight off brake hoses). Do not squeeze the front brake lever, unless you plan on rebuilding them. You can do all the work you mentioned earlier, and replace the pads without completely removing the calipers, and having to completely re bleed the front brakes. ~ Walter n Maryland


Center stand the bike. Tip it over a little on the right side; slide a 2 by 4 under the left center stand leg. Tip it back to the center; put a 2 by 4 under the left leg of the center stand. Put something heavy in the trunk. Now she'll pivot back onto the back wheel and the front wheel is about 4 inches off the floor. If that isn’t high enough, repeat the trick with a couple of 4 by 4s. I’m an expert at finding cheapy-assed ways of getting things done. ~ Spike


Don't "pick" the bike up. Just have one sit in the passenger seat and the other put the blocks under the front of the bike, much easier. ~ Skippy


Alright guys and girls... I am about to try my hand at changing the rear tire on my 86 Cade LX. I got the Suzuki CD and I think I know what to do. But is there anything maintenance wise you experienced hands can advise me to do while I have the wheel off. Someone last week was talking about greasing a needle bearing or something! Did not find it on the CD. Also I am pretty good at electrical troubleshooting and soldering and such. I ordered new switches for my radio that refuses to switch between AM and FM and stays on 102.5 FM all time. Anyone have any suggestions before I start this? My cassette does not work either but I was thinking it might be because the radio switches will not change. The CD is great! If you do not have one you ought to get it. The beveled 2x6 for the center stand works great. I am working on plans for an economical Cade Lift that will support lifting it by the underside of the frame. Will publish as soon as I complete and perfect it. ~ Joe in Central Texas


What difference does it make? They go into thru-holes. The bolt can be any length it wants, within reason of course. Something you might wanna consider is swapping out those Phillips screws for socket head cap screws. Makes them a lot easier to get back out if you ever have to do that. I have been systematically replacing Phillips screws with socket head cap screws pretty much anywhere they are applicable. ~ Spike



FYI... I was walking through the local Sear tool dept today and noticed the new Craftsman motorcycle lift. It features swivel locking casters and T - bar to move it and it can lift 1500 lbs. up to 17 inches with safety stops at 11 3/4, 14 3/4 & 16 1/2. The best part was the special price of $ 99.00 and there is a 10 % off sale, which makes it $89.00. I sure this will make spring cleaning (especially the rear wheel) a bit easier.


All of the motorcycle lifts that I have seen currently on the market would have to be modified to lift the Cade, as the exhaust system is lower than the frame, would need some sort of flip-up device added. I purchased one at a garage close out sale and ran into this problem, and haven't modified it yet, when I do I will post modification. ~ Walter N Maryland


Bought a new motorcycle lift. With no surprise the pipes are lower than the frame. Does anyone have a suggestion or comments on how to make a bracket or something to properly lift my Cavalcade? ~

I used blocks of wood screwed together, a 2x6 for the base then a 1x2 at the rear then a 2x2 on top of the 1x. Hey, it was quick, handy and it works for me. ~ Roy in TX



Bad thing about shimming up springs is that you don't really get an increase in the available load on the discs, only a little higher pre-load. The Barnett springs are wound with a slightly thicker wire and/or a higher tensile strength wire that actually increases the available load to improve engagement. You also have to be careful about bottoming the springs out if you get too thick a shim. Also, springs lose tension over time and they probably needed to be replaced anyway. For the price of Barnett springs, it was probably well worth it. ~ Tracy


Your right Tracy, for the price of $10 it's better to replace the springs. The Barnett springs were the same thickness, so I assume they have more strength than stock as they had one less winding than stock and were a little taller. I had taken the used and the new stock springs to a machine shop to test for strength, they measured the same. That’s why I ordered the Barnett springs. By the way, there's only 25,000 miles on the clutch plates, they measured out to be the same as the new ones I bought, thetas on automotive 10 W 40 oil. $200 for clutch discs when all I needed were $10 springs. Well, at least I have an extra set of discs. ~ Clair Cade 1987


Yes, I purchased the bike new. We had gone riding on day and came to an intersection where we had to stop, I mentioned to my wife that someone must have lost oil somewhere because I could smell it. After we pulled out and stopped at the next red light I smelled it again, "Gee, that must be us." Luckily it had only leaked enough to get into the driveshaft boot and slightly drip on the exhaust. (Thank goodness it dripped on the exhaust that we could smell it). Drove it about 40 miles to home. This all happened before I found the Cavalcade group so figured all it needed was gaskets. When we asked the Suzuki dealer about it they said it would cost about $500 or $600 and never said anything about a recall. Well, I had a shop manual and figured I could try to do it myself. Purchased oil seals and gaskets, cost $40. After taking everything apart I started to put the secondary gear box back in and this rubber/metal plug fell out, it had been stuck fast to the bottom of the case with the gear lube. Under close inspection the plug had 3 or 4 teeth marks that matched the bevel gears, it must have come out, hit the gears once and fell to bottom of the 

case, luckily for me. Well, after making another trip to the Suzuki dealer and purchasing a new plug for $7.75 I just pressed it back in. Know that I know better, I should have put some sort of sealer on it. It has worked OK ever since. The total cost was under $50, that sure beats $500. Was sure worth all the work and time it took. Suzuki has NEVER contacted me as to ANY recalls or fixes except shortly after purchase the sent me a letter regarding the battery going dead after a short storage and suggested turning off CB Memory and trickle charging the battery. ~ Clair Cade 1987


Clair, Well, that missing winding is a big part of it. When you take out a winding you spread the deflection over fewer windings which stiffens up the spring. The down side to that is that the steel is being stressed to a higher level and the type and temper of the metal can get pretty critical if you want them to last. That's why a $10 set of Barnett springs also buys a whole slew of R&D. A nice bargain. As for the plates not wearing, I would say that most of the Caders have experienced very little physical wear in the clutch plates and the real culprit is glazing due to too soft of springs and a heavy-ass bike. Almost all the clutch plates will glaze to some degree and many can be brought back to like by just sanding them a little. If you've seen new fiber clutch discs, then you know that they aren't smooth but have some "tooth" to the surface. Over time that tooth gets worn off and sanding with some medium to course paper can revive the plates. Downside to that is that you will eventually have to do it again unless you replace the springs with ones that probably should have been in the motor to begin with (AKA: Barnetts). The clutch engages more positively, there is less if any slippage at speed (or getting to speed) which helps stave off glazing. Now, if we could get those Suzuki engineers in a headlock and convince them to. ~ Tracy



Hey Guys, I sure feel bad about bothering ya for things like this, but I just can’t seem to find this on the CD. Probably not looking in the right place. I have the speedo gear box off and was planning on checking it over, but can't figure out how it comes apart or if it needs to for some preventive maintenance. Thought I would clean the gears and give it some fresh lube, but just can't find a break down on the CD. Can someone steer me in the right direction or tell me what I need to do to make sure the gearbox doesn’t wear out prematurely. I sure do appreciate having 500 Cade owners/mechanics at my disposal. ~ Brian in IN ‘87 tt Gray LX


Hello Brian, I just took mine apart and discovered after the snap ring and the "C" clip on the back I couldn't get it down any further to lube it or even to inspect the gears. It had the appearance of a rubber sealed bearing. It wasn't all that smooth inside of its movement so I took my grease gun and attempted to force some grease down in the cable luck. I brought out my compressor hose and forced some grease down inside it. The real discovery was the condition of the two "dogs" that engage the wheel to rotate the gears. They were about shot so I straightened them out a little and insured they mated up with the wheel OK and with the new wheel bearings installed (another matter for some gnashing of teeth) I gave it a trial. GREAT! In my opinion the speedo gear box is a piece of (work) and if in doubt, get a replacement while you still can...(there exclusive to the Cade'). The job was an all-day sucker for an arthritic old fart but perfectly do-able if your ol' L---- (whoops) "Bride" is able to help with some of the "hand-me's" and "just push a little harder's". ~ Bill the Fish Guy


Bill, Well I found out the same thing that you did as far as trying to take it apart. My "dogs" where in good shape thou. So did you fill the cable hole with grease, then follow with compressed air to get it into the gears? Did that seem to work? Does the air escape around the seal? Mine seem a little stiff, but seems to rotate smoothly. Thanks for you input. ~ Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX



Some time ago someone posted the procedure for replacing the clutch springs. I couldn't find it in the archives, so could you re-post them for me? Phil


Take off the right side engine cover. Take one bolt out of the clutch hub. Replace the spring on that bolt. Reinstall that bolt and tighten. Repeat 3 more times. Bolt the side cover back on. That's it. Oh, you should probably have a new gasket for the side cover Part #11482-05A01. You may want to drain the oil first or at least tilt the bike to the left on the side stand. ~ Tracy


Both of these are pretty important... my gasket was brittle and had to be replaced... the oil for some reason likes to come out when the side covers removed too... but I thought ahead and drain mine first.... You might want to check some other things while your in there, water pump seal and chain, clutch plates... but then you have to take all 4 clutch spring bolts out, but that's no problem... I just did it, no need for any special tools or skills... It’s a pretty easy job. ~ Brian


The Barnett number is MT-9-4.  has them for $11.95 a set.  has EBC replacement springs (#2001-EBC spring kit) for $9.99. They say they are 10% stiffer than stock.  has Premier Braking Limited replacement springs for $9.99 (#328-0026).  has a dealer locator that can find you a dealer. ~ Tracy


The Barnett springs were the right choice. I had 24,000 miles on my ‘87 and it began to slip when on a full throttle, low speed and in high gear. I ordered new springs and clutches from Suzuki and measured the new springs. They measured the same as the old ones. Took them to a machine shop and had them tested and the spring tension measured the same. That's when I ordered Barnett springs, they are taller and had one less winding. I'm sure the length will keep a little more pressure on the clutches when lever is released. I thought about placing thin washers under original springs to increase length, but why do that when a new set of Barnett springs cost only $10.00. Measured the clutch plates they also measured the same as old ones (now that was money I could have saved). The moral of the story is, If your clutch is slipping just try replacing the springs before ordering clutch discs. ~ Clair in PA, Cade1987


Here is a tip for anyone who wants it. I changed the clutch springs in my Cavalcade today. It's an ‘87 with 48k miles. When I was tightening the bolts, I had the torque wrench set to 9 ft. lbs. and the first one torqued down fine. The second one felt a little mushy like it didn't want to tighten down and just as I was ready to stop to see what was wrong, it snapped off just below the washer. Luckily I was able to spin it out of the hole with a dental pick until I could grab it with a pair of needle nose vice grips and get it out. The last two did the same thing, but I stopped before they snapped. When I took the one out it was already cracked so it was close to breaking too. My advice is to be very careful when putting them back in and if they don't tighten to spec as soon as you feel them getting tight, just stop right there and get a new one or save yourself some grief and just go buy four more. I matched them up at my local hardware store and they were 50¢ a piece. I'm not sure whether the heat just got to them or what, but I just wanted to advise anyone who might be changing them. ~ Rick


I looked at the service manual and I believe it is wrong in the section that describes the clutch install. If you look to section 10 and the tightening torque of a 6 mm bolt, it should only be 3-5 ft/lb. for low grade (which I believe is what is in the clutch) and 6-8.5 lb./ft for high grade bolts. ~ Tracy



I have a small oil leak that seems to be coming from a hose that comes down the right front frame rail. It is tie wrapped there with what I believe to be the battery over flow hose. Can anyone tell me where this hose comes from and why I am seeing oil leak from it? ~ Bob Morse '86 LX


One of those hoses is the air cleaner drain hose. Some blowback into the air cleaner box could be producing a little oil there, but it should be an itsy bitsy amount. The only reason there should be any more than that would be if you accidentally poured some oil into the air cleaner box or it could be draining moisture from a recent washing or rain storm ride. ~ That's not to say that the oil is coming from somewhere else (like a valve cover) and following the hose down. ~ Tracy


It may also be coming from the primary or secondary coolant bottle...mine looked like a head gasket leak till I checked it out. ~ Dan in TX



I have rebuilt my front calipers. I bled the brakes but there’s no stopping power. Since only one bleeder is provided on the front calipers, how does the air get out on the side without the bleeder? Does anyone have a bleed method? ~ Mud


Mud, Are you sure there isn’t a bleeder on the other caliper? Maybe its snapped off even with the caliper and only looks like it don’t have one. I just looked at mine and I have a bleeder on each caliper. ~ Ichaboney


Bleeding bike brakes is a major pain in the ass. And, there is only one bleeder on each caliper. The two sides are tied together at the high point . Some find it easier to pump the fluid in from the bottom by using a turkey baster or other suitable pump since air wants to naturally gravitate to the top anyway. You have to be real careful in doing this since you can overflow the reservoir and the fluid will destroy any plastic or paint that it comes in contact with. Sometimes, it just takes pumping a lot of fluid through the system to get all the air out. ~ Tracy


Someone suggested a small pump oil can that you can attach a hose to be able to pump fluid in reverse, too. I tried it and was quite happy.... less mess, too. I think it also pushed something back out the way it came in (via the reservoir) ~ HeyJerr



I know this is a simple thing and probably a stupid question. But, before I take it apart I wanted to check. My front brake switch is sticking. I can’t remember if there are any tiny springs or bearings that could fall out when I take it loose. Also should I lubricate it with anything or just clean it real good? ~ Roy in TX


Spring. If you lube it, do it with something that conducts. ~ Tracy


Roy : Yes, there is a small sliding contact that can/will fall out. I am on my second switch, less than $20 from dealer. I replaced the switch ass’y, lubed it lightly in the contacts with dielectric grease, no more problems (for now). I am still trying to figure out how to adapt the brake switch like I did the clutch switch with a micro-switch, but there is more room on the clutch lever to play with. ~ Brian, ‘87LXE in CT


You'll find both...a tiny spring and a ball. I put a flat case size pop box under mine before I took it apart and it saved me having to crawl around on the floor looking for parts. Cleaned mine with a pencil eraser. Put a little dab of grease on the ball to hold it in place. It's working fine again. ~ KennG



The brace went on with a little nudge and the front end is noticeably tighter. Took out almost all the wobble. ~ Bosbiker


I've been out of town for 5 days and got back today. My new tires and brace were waiting for me. I'm installing the brace tomorrow. I hope to put the tires on in the next few years. Not really, will start that tomorrow afternoon. Question, can anyone tell me how much torque to put on the 4 Allen head bolts that hold the Superbrace on? ~ Richie


The service manual doesn't give the torque value for those specific bolts, however, they are 8mm and the general torque rules are 7-11.5 ft/lb. for mid strength bolts and 13-20 ft/lb. for high strength bolts. The thing one needs to consider is that the limiting factor might be the quality of the aluminum that the forks are made from. I would start at the low numbers and see how that feels. You wouldn't want to strip anything out. Since the Superbrace is designed to fit very well around the forks, it shouldn't take overly tight bolts to make it work properly. A little blue Locktite might make you feel better. ~ Tracy


On my stock brace its 2 1/16 from center to center of mounting hole, the super brace for 86--87 vin 103765 up is 1 7/8 from centers. My Cade is a 1988 VIN 5j2100029. The people at super brace are trying to figure this out. ~ Richie


Editor’s Note: Several Cavalcade Owners measured the bolt spacing on their bikes and sent the results to Tracy .


Well. Okay then, it's official. Suzuki made a change to the bolt spacing for the front fork brace after frame #5882 (March '86) and at or before frame #0029 (Jan '88). Al's bike (#0097 and also Jan '88) also has the larger (2 1/8") spacing. I will call SuperBrace tomorrow. ~ Tracy


I called them and told of my problem with the brace. I sent my brace back for a refund. They told me that they were trying to figure this one out and are trying to find the info on the ‘88 Cade. ~ Richie


You know, I've been thinking that maybe Suzuki stopped making new parts after 87 and the 88's were made from all the leftovers.  ~ Brian in IN, ‘87 tt Gray LX


Brian, Well, you might be right. However, that still doesn't explain why the spacing on the '88s is wider (and possibly some '87s depending on when they changed it). If they were trying to use up parts, it still should have been the same. ~ Tracy


Okay folks, here's the skinny on the Superbrace fit issue. ~ According to the parts book (Cavalcade), Suzuki changed the forks for the GCG, GCH and GCJ (I believe that stands for '87, '88 and '89). So, even though Superbrace makes 2 models for early and late frame numbers, that only applies to GTG and GDG models ('85 and '86 I believe). So, if you have an '87 or later, you need wider spacing for the brace to fit. ~ I spoke with Chad at Superbrace today and he assures me that they are on the project and are making the molds to fix the issue. I gave him the dimensions that David provided but, ideally, they would really like a bike to measure. ~ So, if anyone out there has a GCG, GCH or GCJ and you live near Huntington Beach , CA , the boys at Superbrace will be happy to treat you right as rain if you are willing to drag your sorry ass (and your bike) over there. ~ You can contact them at 800-322-4783 or 714-379-9661 and ask for Chad or Scott. ~ Tracy



I've had inflation problems with my air shocks. After much scraping, not all of it being the floorboards, a mechanic got the compressor working but it's now just a very expensive tire inflater as it still doesn't pump up the shocks. Attempts to bypass the system by jumping the green wire with the white tracer have also proven unsuccessful. So it comes to this, I'm either gonna bypass the onboard system completely and find a way to inflate them from an external source or I'll replace them with Progressives. Has anyone had Cavalcade experience with the Progressive 412 gas shocks? I know that Progressive also makes an air shock but I think I'd prefer a coil over. If I go that route, I also appreciate someone giving me a shock length measurement, which I don't want to get from my sagging machine. ~ Roy from MD


Roy , Have you checked and/or cleaned the position sensor mounted on the swingarm? If the sensor doesn't send the right signal, the compressor won't inflate the shocks it will just pump up the bladders and/or external hose (if attached). I assume that the shocks aren't leaking as fast as they are filled. If they were, there would be a bunch of oil running out of them as well. ~ Tracy


Roy , I went to Progressive rear shocks about 6 years ago when my stock ones wouldn't pump up anymore. They're still working fine. Cost me about $160 back then. ~ Michael

Roy , You need to find out if it’s the shocks, the compressor, or just plugged lines. I would take an air line off, like at the shock and hit the button and see if you have air coming out. If not, then you need to try some up at the compressor. You might want to refer to my previous message # 21753 in the archives at just type the number in the search box. My shocks were taking a loooong time to pump up and found plugged lines were the problem. If you have air coming out of the line, then the shocks must be bad. ~ Brian in IN ‘87 tt Gray LX


I replaced my stock shocks with Progressive air shocks had to by an adapter kit to make up the airline connections. I had them rebuilt one time before by Progressive due to an air leak in one of them. They are currently in the shop at progressive again for rebuild due to oil leaking out of one of them. When I pulled it off the bike found that the shaft on one of them came unscrewed from the inside of the shock, my local wrench says he has never seen anything like it before. I sent a little note to Progressive with the shocks to see if they can explain this problem. ~ John in La. '86 LXE


I went the 412 route last year and I'm not sorry. The only set back is making the adjustments for a stiffer ride. You pretty much have to remove the saddlebags to do it. Mine are adjusted one step below half way and work well one up, two up and two up with the trailer. I don't think you'll be sorry. One thing about the compressor, check the banjo fittings on the top hoses. Mine were plugged. Cleaned them out and opened the hole in the fitting and the pressure is back. ~ KennG


I, too, have the Progressive 412's on my Cade. Gave up the air suspension but they were the best choice due to the, er, generous size of myself & wife. I cannot say I regret it, very nice ride - I can only imagine that that is how a 'normal-sized' guy feels on a stock Cade. ~ Brian ‘87LXE in CT


Brian, Tracey & John thanks for your input on my shock problem. I have some line checking to do over the weekend. To make the problem a little clearer, When I press the auto-level button - the light works but the compressor does not engage - even with a passenger on - its like the bike is sensing that it is properly inflated. Maybe I answered my own question as I know that there is a level sensing device somewhere that triggers the compressor to inflate or deflate the air shocks. ~ Roy from MD


Roy , also check that your side-stand is not down. It will not fill with it down. The light will come on while you are pressing it. But will go off when you release it. If that's not the case then it sounds like the height sensor to me. ~

Denny Potoczky


Also check the center stand switch. They quite often get filled with water and dirt causing compressor not to engage. ~ Phil R


I have also had some problems with the auto level system on my bike. I simply put a Schrader valve in the line just above the left shock and pump it up with external air supply. Also ran a hose to the coin holder compartment on the left side dash and installed gauge so I can monitor the shock air pressure and not over-inflate the air bladders. Generally run about fifty to sixty pounds of air for two-up riding and trailer towing. Just received my shocks back from progressive today repairs covered under warranty must be lifetime as shocks are four years old, $25.00 shipping and handling charges. ~ John in La. '86 LXE


Before you go and spend the money on new shocks make sure that the are lines from the compressor are not corroded shut. My shocks would not pump up even though the air compressor was working. I removed the seat and disconnected the air lines from the shocks, then I placed an air pump and gauge to the shocks and pumped them up, and they held the air. The problem was that the banjo fittings and air line had corroded shut due to moisture in the lines. Sure was happy not to spend the big bucks for new shocks. ~ Clair, Cade1987


I installed Progressive air shocks last year. I've had no problems. Make sure you order the adapter kit for the Cade. ~ Brenden



Gentleman for the first time I noticed fine black lines on my front forks (no oil yet), I'm assuming the seals are starting to breakdown. Am I on the right track? Is there a special tool needed to take them apart in order to repair the seals? When should the inner springs be replaced if ever? Are Garters still available to protect the front forks during long trips? ~ Larry ‘86 LXE, 38,000 miles

Larry, I don't think that the appearance of fine lines on the upper tubes necessarily indicates impending seal failure, because those lines are probably coming from the wipers that sit over the actual oil/air seals. It may be that you have some dirt collecting in the wipers and they need to be lifted up and cleaned. A little rubber lubricant on them will help then slide better. ~ As for replacing the seals, the only "special" item needed is something to hold the inner tube while you take out the socket-head bolt in the bottom. It is usually nothing more than a length of tubing or rod with a metric (or US quasi-equivalent) welded onto one end. That nut fits into a female recess in the inner tube ad allows you to keep it from turning whilst you remove the bolt. ~ Other than that, it's a bang-bang, wash-em-up, install new seals, measure out and put in some new fluid (Dexron tranny fluid is as good as anything) hang-'em-back and ride. ~ If you feel the springs are too soft for your weight or riding style, that's when they should be replaced with better springs like Progressives. Be careful, though, some of the members have received the wrong springs from Progressive. ~ Tracy


My air cleaner box is some what out of shape making it difficult to assemble the two halves while in place. Has anyone had any luck making a seal on a difficult air cleaner box? Has anyone made any type of strap or hold down brace to hold the two halves of the air cleaner together instead of relying on the false tank cover? I would like to thank all the people who respond to my questions. I may be able to get this Cade on the road one of these days. ~ Mud


There should be two threaded studs that protrude through the top half on which you thread two wings nuts. If you ain't got no studs, maybe that's your problem. ~ Tracy



Changed my clutch springs over the weekend. I didn't find a right side cover gasket. So I went to AutoZone and bought VersaChem, Super Blue II, Type 777. Scraped off old gasket pieces, cleaned both surfaces, wiped with alcohol, applied blue stuff per directions. Assembled everything and let it set for a day (24 hrs +) Put oil back in last night and ran for a little. No drips, no runs, no errors. I'm happy. Thought I would let you know the blue stuff works. ~ KennG


Kenn, What about the pull of the new springs?


You can definitely tell you're grabbing on to more. It's not an overwhelming pull, but a bit stronger than the stock springs. I think I'm gonna be real happy with the new springs. Thanks to all of you who have made the swap before and shared the info with us. ~ KennG



Last Sun. my group & I were riding on the I-540 Interstate (AR). We were doing 70 or 75mi. When my ‘86 Cade back wheel locked up. I left a black mark for 78 long yards. I kept both wheels on the road. But, What A Wild Ride! Any ideas what made the back wheel lock up? After the bike was off the road we started it up & it fired. We put it on the center stand & put it in gear back wheel turned for a little. But it locked up. ~ Dennis


Khrom, Don't tell me, let me guess. Your bike was built in either March or April of 1985 and the last 4 digits of your VIN are somewhere between 0500 and 3100. Likely the bevel plug came out of your secondary and wedged itself in the bevel gears. Pull off the secondary case and I'll buy you a tall cold beer if you don’t find a chewed up oil plug in there. And I will even if you do, just for holding it rubber-side down through that experience. ~ Spike


Could be one of the following (or maybe something else)

1)       Needle bearing in rear wheel (recall for that)

2) U-joint at front of driveshaft (was too small on early units)

3) Loss of lube in secondary box due to faulty plug issue (was also a common issue)

~ Tracy


I am unaware of the "faulty plug" issue in the secondary box. How does one check for a potential problem with this? ~ Alan-Daytona Beach


Alan, It probably only applies if your date of manufacture is between March and about May of ‘85. After that we think they fixed the problem. Check your date on your VIN tag. If it is in that window, that is if your VIN last 4 digits is between 0500 and about 3200 and your bike is an ‘86, then get back here and lets talk. You might have a little job ahead of ya. ~ Spike

Oops, never mind Alan you already sent me your VIN. The bevel plug problem doesn’t apply to you. Now, since you live in Florida , go out, get on your bike, ride your brains out, have a great time. ~ Spike


Alan, Usually, there will be a tell-tale sign like the appearance of hypoid lube in the driveshaft tube. This will show up at the front rubber flex joint and will make a general mess of the left rear of the bike. BUT, in some cases, the lube simply drains into the driveshaft tube and never really lets you know that it's there unless you check for it by removing one end of the rubber boot. Walter in Maryland had a similar leakage problem and to prevent it from happening again he constructed this complex array of tubes and warning buzzers to let him know that there was fluid in the driveshaft tube. If you can get past the ultra-technical maze of clear plastic tubing and all of the connecting wiring (I think there is somewhere about 2 miles of additional tubing and wiring that Walter has attached to the left rear of his Cade), it's really not that obtrusive. And the main thing is that it WORKS! Walter, please don't hate me...I was only joking because I respect you. :-) Actually, you can find the plans for Walter’s very simple and effective device at ~ Tracy


Alan, Well, if you really want to be on the safe side, you will check those things that cause rear-wheel lockup. It's a pain to do since you have to take the back wheel off, but the needle bearing was a known problem. The problem is, you don't know if someone has gone in there and grease it properly. Or, if they did, when it was done. The u-joint will usually start making a clank noise on takeoff and during throttle off throttle on. It may be a little hard to hear but you may be able to feel it. If it's only in one gear, it's probably just the lash in that gear set in the tranny. But if it's in all gears, it could very well be the u-joint. This was another known problem that was fixed sometime during production of the bike. The keeper of the stats (Spiker) may have the info on the VIN number when it was fixed. As for the grease in the secondary drive, Spike is right, there is a hole in the driveshaft tube that you can check for signs of leakage. However if the pervious owner has kept the bike really clean, any leakage at that hole could have been cleaned off regularly and you wouldn't know what the level is unless you check it. Also, there are seals in the secondary that eventually start to leak, beyond the problem of the infamous plug. Anyway, checking and/or replacing the lube in the secondary is easy. Hope some of this helps. ~ Tracy


As for loosing the ground to the rectifier, you need to check the double plug just below the battery. There are two wires. A black one and a black/white striped one that come off the ground terminal at the battery. Follow them down from the battery check that plug if any battery acid has gotten into it it's building up resistance in the ground to the rectifier, your readings were the same as mine when I had the same problem. Cut that plug out and either solder those wires together or put in new butt connectors, cover the repair with shrink tube. I was looking at my manual as to the needle bearings in the rear wheel. I see three/between the drive break down and the rear wheel breakdown. It looks like the drive ones should be in hypoid, however it looks like the one in the rear wheel hub needs grease. As to the plug failure, it's anyone’s guess, I have my theories on that. I lean more to the bevel gear box locking up, due to lube loss, through the plug or rear seal at the drive shaft. Tracy , the catch tubes do work and it isn’t really miles of tubing, and bells and whistles. I figured if Spike could use 18 feet of tubing to bleed his front brake and clutch. A little tubing wouldn't hurt to fore warn me of a major catastrophe. I know you are kidding. Like you said the bevel gear box could lose all of it's oil into the driveshaft/left swing arm and not even show up on the bike. ~ Walter


 Ever since I've owned my Cade (my first drive shaft bike) I have placed it on the center stand periodically to spun the rear wheel and listen for any unusual noises. I placed the bike in gear (not running) and rocked the wheel back and forth to see how much slack/play was in the drive system. I know it's not a measured inspection, but it gives you an idea as to just what is there. And you might just be able to hear any slack. Then I start the bike up, and gently go through all the gears, again listening for any grundling, grinding, whining, and zinging. I generally take it up to about 40 miles per hour, gently applying the brakes now and then. Sort of like a DRY RIDE, (know what mean?) FOR this test I make sure the bike can't come off the center stand. It's an easy way to let you know whatzzzup in the drive line area. Last summer after some long riding in the rain TO LAKE GERORE. I left the morning coffee stop and noticed the bike wanted to slow down seemed as though the rear brake was binding up, I pulled the lever back up with my toe and sure enough it was. It seems as though my riding habits applied just enough pressure on the rear brake to bring the pad in contact with the rotor. As I rode, the heat expanded the pads/rotor and fluid to keep applying the brakes, until I manually returned the brake lever to allow the fluid to reenter the master cylinder. FOUND RUST IN PIVOT of brake lever. LUBE my friends is the answer. ~ Walter n Maryland



Alan, Save yourself some grief and check the VIN # on your registration or title against Spike's list, "last four digits between 0500 an 3100" seems to have the problem. When Spike et. al. started this VIN # research, "I thought why bother!" just to see who’s Cade was oldest? But now I ride a little more confidently knowing mine is 4768.  THANKS SPIKE, a slam dunk idea ~ Larry in Dayton


Ok, now that most everyone, including me is paranoid after reading these rear wheel lockup messages, I need some clarification. Supposedly the bad ones were in early model Cavalcades with the last four digits 0500 to 3100. By early model, is this only the 1986 models? The last four digits of my VIN are 0888, but it's an '87. I don't see any signs of leakage, but should I be doing some work on my bike anyway? Thanks to anyone who knows the answer to this. ~ Rick


Larry, I just got my Cade. I know what you mean about feeling better about having a bike out of the range on spikes list. Mine is 4884, pretty close to yours. It only has 18,000 on her, so would hate to be taking a "wild" ride all of a sudden. I agree with everyone...THANKS Spike! ~ Maury, in Auburn , WA


Okay Spike, interesting concept... I have mine apart and by looking down the secondary output shaft (where the drive shaft connects) I see a metal disc that would look like the "bottom" of a bottle cap. I also looked on the CD and found the section that tells you to install the "plug" but this does not show you what it looks like or if there is any different way to install it (section 4 page 15). In fact, I don't see any mention on how to install the new one once it has been removed. As with most of the CD it tells you, that you need special tools to do most of the work but none for this "plug". ~ Terry ‘86LX frame #5882


Terry, I don't think that what you are seeing is the "plug". If you look on page 4-2 and then on page 4-1, the plug is at the driven-gear end of the arrangement that sits inside the gearbox. From what members have described that have replaced it, it is a rubber-metal composite that presses into the inside of the gear. I assume that since it doesn't state which direction it is installed, and that it doesn't require a special tool, then it is obvious as to how it goes in and that a big plate or punch is all that's required to install it. ~ Tracy


Yep, I've seen the plug that is shown on those pages. What I don't understand is that what is it that I see when I look up the end of the shaft. Is this the fix that Suzuki made so that we don't have to fill with epoxy to seal this off? I don't need to take mine completely apart to find this out. Have you or anyone taken this drive apart to see exactly what this is? Is the there a hole completely through to the shaft if the plug is removed on the early ones? ~ Terry 86LX


Terry, Yes the shaft has a hole through it. It's the way it was machined. And to close that hole they added a plug. When you look into it from the drive shaft end you are seeing the back (inside) of the plug. It isn't covered with rubber/plastic on the back. I did all this research, on a spare gear box I purchased just in case. ~ Walter n Maryland


What year was the unit you are using from? When I look down mine it is metal and is hard, don't see any rubber from the shaft end. ~ Terry 86LX


Mine is one of the early ones. It has a hole through the center of the driven bevel. The plug can go in two ways but seems to have a directional preference, i.e. if it is oriented top forward, it goes in easy and comes out hard. What I am hoping is that someone with an early bird will decide to take the secondary case off to see which way the plug is oriented as built. I couldn't tell you as mine had already fallen out when I took it apart. Since so many Cades were built in spring of 85, it is possible that they had more than one parallel assembly line, in which case we could have a mixed bag: some could have plugs top forward and some with plugs top aft. ~ Spike


I can't see us getting paranoid over the plug. There can be many scenarios that could cause plug failure. I have an 86 Cade with 48.000 miles on it. I know for a fact the seals between the engine and bevel gear box are transferring oil into the gear box from the engine. I also know the rear seal has just started to leak into the drive shaft (left swing arm) as my catch tubes signify. I also have an extra bevel gear box from an 87 Cade and the flat (top) of the bottle cap is facing the inner portion of the bevel gear. This I can see if I look into the splined (driveshaft end) of the gear box. I truly don't feel as though that little non ferrous plastic/rubber covered plug is going to lock a rear wheel up with the rpm's those gears are turning and the weight of the bike. It'll grind it up or either it will fall harmlessly into the bottom of the gear box. However if you're the "start and ride" rider, your gear box has become low on oil and you ride it this way long enough for the gear that has the plug to become hot enough, the plug will fall out. And also the gear bearings will start to seize. I also don't think that the needle bearings in the rear wheel would cause this without some prior noise. Let me shed a little light. Remember the guy that was selling parts on e-bay "Sealskinner"? I ask quite a few questions before I bought any parts. He stated that the parts bike had suffered a rear wheel lock up. Due to that, the bevel gear box needed bearings. Also the rear tire had a flat spot. For anyone that purchased rear drive parts from him consider this. It is imperative with these things are now known that you take the time to look for any oil leaks, in the drive section of your bike, before>diring and after a trip. And to remember to keep those areas clean of road dirt so you can see any change in the collection of oily residue. I hope the fellow that suffered this harrowing experience posts his findings on the web site. I haven't gotten around to replacing the seals in mine yet, when I do I will post it here. ~ Walter n Maryland


Rick, yours is likely OK. I think after May of 85 they realized there was a problem and straightened it out. We haven’t heard of any bevel plug failures on any bikes made after May of 85. Anyone with a later bike care to comment? Your 0888 H model was made after they made the suspicious recall notice. I'm sorry to scare you Rick. If you have a low mileage early Cade, then we need to get your attention. ~ Spike


As I stated before I have an extra complete bevel (intermediate) gear box, by complete I mean the large spring and cam dog that actually drives the bevel gears. With the spring in place there is no way the plug can fall out of the end of the bevel gear. It can come loose but the spring keeps it from falling down. However when the gear box is removed and the spring is removed it will allow it to fall into the gear area. If it should become dislodged it will or could dance around on that area until it wore thin enough to pass by the spring? The cavalcade's rear drive is driven by the cam dog, which is splined directly off the main shaft from the transmission, and held into its position by the large spring. For the non mechanically inclined this may be confusing. If you want to see the spring and cam dog it's page 4-4 in the manual. This spring goes into the bevel gear box and pushes the cam dog into outer bevel gear, which transfers the rotation motion to the aft bevel gear. Further checking I found the plug to be a ferrous metal, which still doesn't change my way of thinking, as to grinding it up, I know this isn't good either but I’m really not worried about this plug locking up the rear wheel. It has to be a more severe problem as low gear oil locking up the bevel gear. I feel that if we are careful and conscious of this problem and keep a normal look out for oil leaks in the drive area, every thing will be ok. The plug isn't hard at all to remove. I pushed it out with very little force, one might also say if you were to grease the drive shaft splines and push it quickly into the rear splines of the bevel there may be enough compression for the plug to become dislodged. When I do repair mine I will fill the rear gear with about 2" of epoxy or rubber curing agent. As has been stated before it is possible for the rear swing arm to fill with gear oil and there be no signs on the bike, if the drain hole in the driveshaft has become plugged, or rotated. ~ Walter n Maryland


I just finished replacing all of the seals (clutch included) in my secondary drive unit. The one thing I did notice was that the new plug was deeper than the original unit. The old one was about 3/8" deep while the new one was about 1/2" deep. ~ Dick Carter, Bay City Tex. 86 lx #1669



Tracy : re: sect 4 page 18 items 13 and 21; you are right. However item 21 is a needle bearing also for the driveshaft splines. These two in relation to their seals appear to be running in hypoid gear oil to me. However if you go to section 9 page 68, it shows a needle bearing (item 10) in the rear wheel on the inner side. I think with the wheel removed one could possibly grease this one and possibly see item 10 needle bearing as well as maybe item 13 by looking into the axle shaft hole. You might possibly grease this one as well. Anyway, there are two needle bearings. One is located just inside the inner rear wheel axle hole and one is just inside the axle hole of the drive itself. Before installing the rear wheel I think I would look for these bearings and if at all possible place my finger in the axle hole and see if I could distinguish a needle bearing if so make sure it has plenty grease. Make sure the axle itself is clean before reinserting it into the wheel on assembly. These references as to section page and item were taken from the manual. ~ Walter


Good call Walter, I hadn't looked at the rear wheel assembly (I found it on page 53 of Section 9) but that is probably the bearing that needs to be greased since it clearly does NOT run in hypoid. I believe that the only bearing that can be greased is item 10 on page 53 of section 9 (or page 68 as the case may be). After looking back at item 13 on page 18 of section 4, that needle bearing clearly carries the outboard end of the ring gear carrier and does in fact run in hypoid. ~ Tracy


You are right! Section 4, pg18, item 13 is a needle bearing, as is item 21. And with their relation to the seals and hypoid oil section of the rear drive I see them as running in hypoid rear oil. However in section 9 pg63 there is also a needle bearing located in the wheel. It would probably need to be greased as it appears to be isolated from the gear oil section of the drive it's self. If you look at sect 9, pg. 56, fig#1, you will see the installation process for this bearing. Which also states to apply grease. I feel this is the bearing. They are referring to. You might possibly see the other needle bearing if you looked into the axle shaft hole of the drive. You will definitely see the needle bearing on the inside of the wheel once it is removed. These references were made from the manual, as I haven't purchased the CD as of yet. When I install the rear wheel I would place grease in the axle shaft hole in both the inner wheel bearing and the drive. These are the only ones you can get to with just the wheel off. And make sure the shaft is clean before reinserting it into the wheel. ~ Walter n Maryland



Would some of y’all help double check my trouble-shooting here? I've only had this beast about a year (about 9,000 miles). She's got 72,000 on her. Last summer with temps 90 to 100 ( Texas ) the temp gauge showed a little to the left of straight up. Now, with temps of 70 to 80, I'm running a good bit to the right of straight up and almost to the point of hot if I sit and idle (even a short time). Noticed this afternoon at 80 mph she cooled off. Thought.. “Air flow, dummy." But slowed to 60 and she heated up. Shifted to 4th and she cooled. Went to 45 and 3rd. Stayed cool. Is my water pump not moving enough water except at higher rpm? Or, am I missing something obvious? ~ Mark


Mark, You didn't mention when, or if, the fan was coming on. The fan should be coming on when you're running slowly (and when you're running fast if the temp gets up). That would the first thing I would check. If the fan's not coming on, there's a fuse in the circuit and the thermostatic switch in the radiator. Both of these will need to be checked (starting with the most obvious). Fluid level is also an issue. If you've changed the coolant, you may not have gotten all of the air out, as it is a pain to do so. Check the fluid level and make sure the lower tank is up to level. There was also another post that mentioned the gauge sending unit and corroded connections leading to a false reading at the gauge. I would check that too. The water pump generally doesn't fail in a manner that would prevent it from pumping sufficient water. The common failure is either the bearing or seal but generally not the impeller. Could it happen? Probably has and probably will again but is unlikely the cause of your problem. I would check the other things first. ~ Tracy


Yes, the fan is running. It seems to start at the same point on the temp gauge as last summer. Don't believe it's a flaky indication either, it feels hot too. Air might be the problem. I've cracked the radiator cap and filled from the top tank. Did get some air through the cap before fluid arrived. Is there some other trick to purging the system? I've been through all the normal kind of troubleshooting and can't solve it. That's why I'm grasping for the not-so-obvious. Tracy , I bought your CD when I first got the ol' gal and it has been a wonderful resource. Thanks. Lurking in this group has also been a great learning experience. It's funny to see how much we all love these beasts. How come most of us seem to be old and gray though? Again, thanks to all, ~ Mark


Probably the secondary coolant bottle is leaking since it's right over top of the engine. I wish I knew how to get to the blasted thing. I tore all the plastic off mine 3 weeks ago to check it out but seemed to be encased in a ton of stuff. ~ Dan in D/FW TX. March 85 VIN #0234 with 47k


Something else to check Sometimes the ground wire for the temp gauge thermal sensor gets corroded and gives false readings. It grounds on the bolt that holds the carb boot on the number-two cylinder. (Front left sitting on the bike) This can be the cause of erratic readings of the temp gauge if the rest of the cooling system checks out OK. ~ Phil



Hello folks, I have pulled the carbs on my 1987 LXE because it has sat for a little while and will not start. I got into them okay, and there is some build-up in there. I am also working without the benefit of a manual for a few days. I have removed what I believe to be the main jet and the pilot jet (main jet is 8mm hex, pilot jet is smallest jet and has screwdriver slot). My question is: "How does one remove the third jet from the carburetor body?" There does not seem to be a way for a tool to affect the jet. Or perhaps I should just clear it as best I can with a can of carb cleaner. Also, I welcome any additional advice on cleaning this thing up. Thanks in advance, Alan



I found these recalls listed for the Cavalcade at  :

Year: 1986 Make: SUZUKI Model: GV1400 Recall Date: 06/25/1985

Type of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 2757 Manufactured: 01/1985 - 05/1985





Spike, In the rear wheel there is a large needle bearing on the left side of the wheel hub that contains the splines for the drive connection to the differential. The right side of the wheel has a ball bearing. With the wheel off the bike, lay it on the brake disk with the splines facing up. Stick your finger in the axle hole and pull the needle bearing race out of the oil seal and wheel. Clean the bearing and apply new bearing grease to the rollers and apply new grease to the ball bearing on the other side of the wheel. You can see the ball bearing from the needle bearing side. I used a long needle attachment on my pneumatic grease gun to reach across the wheel hub to apply the grease to the ball bearing. This is something I did every time the wheel was off the bike and I never had a problem with the wheel bearings in 80K of riding. Hope this sheds some light on the subject. Enjoy Those Cades! ~ David Thomas



Year: 1986 Make: SUZUKI Model: GV1400GD Recall Date: 06/25/1985

Type of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 2757 Manufactured: 01/1985 - 05/1985







I read in my shop manual NEVER charge the battery when attached to the bike, it will burn out the rectifier. Does this also apply to putting the battery on a trickle charger? ~ zukicade


Hope not, mine has been charging via trickle charger with no problems all winter. ~ Brenden


I have trickle charged a battery many times attached to the bike, and I’m still on all my original electrics after 17 years and 30k. I think the shop manual was being a bit anal retentive there. I don’t see how the rectifier would know there was a charger on the battery anyway, as long as the ignition switch is off. Perhaps Tracy knows. ~ Spike


I added a battery isolator switch a couple years ago. But before that I used to keep trickle chargers attached to two different bikes with the cords connected to an outlet I screwed into the light socket on the garage door opener, the one that comes on for about 5 minutes whenever the garage door is opened. So that would send a short trickle charge to the battery at least twice a day. This was a better invention than my homemade EZ Leaker. ~ Spike


Mine too! But for 14 years on & off. I even store the bike with the battery hooked up and on a battery tender, I check periodically to see if water levels are OK but otherwise no problems. 1 reg./rectifier in 97,000 miles. ~ Ray & Lin LeTourneau, Nekoosa, WI


I just tried to order a regulator/rectifier from This is an Elextrex product but they e-mailed me back and said that part is no longer available. Anybody have any suggestions on whom to try next? ~ Kirby, ‘86 LX


Kirby, I have a brand new one that I bought for $165 (from Suzuki) about 6 years ago. Try Suzuki and see what they want (probably both of your wahoonies). Or is "Bikebandit" a reference to our favorite marque? ~ Mikey

Order it directly from Electrex. . ~ Tracy


Well, I checked with Electrex USA and it would be at least 3 weeks before they get any regulator/rectifiers in and they suggested Rick's Motorcycle. I think I read in the archives that a couple of people had bad luck with those. Local Suzuki dealer said they could get one for $217.81. Hate to spend that much money right now with floorboard money coming due soon. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks. ~ Kirby, 86 LX


I just bought this Cavalcade. I believe it needs a battery and a rectifier/regulator. I can't seem to find where the rectifier is, could anyone guide me to this part. The bike is a ‘87 Two tone brown, with 42,000 miles. ~ Raymond


Raymond, Since I just tore my down with the help of Tracy 's CD. You remove wind screen, meter cover, and most of the right fairing. The regulator is above the headlight with several yellow wires coming off the side of it. Good luck in finding one through mail order unless you want to wait about a month. I just ordered one from local Suzuki dealer for $217.81 and will be here in 5 days. I think you can download some of these directions from the site. Tracy has provided these. ~ Kirby, ‘86 LX


Try Dennis Kirk. They have them listed for $125 in their electrical part of the catalog.


The guy I bought my Cade from told me that one day the last day he rode it, that he had a bad battery to begin with and rode it on a trip. On the way back his L.E.D went out and the battery light came on, he continued to ride it until he got to his house, upon turning into his driveway the bike stalled and when he went to start it all he got was a clicking noise. Is this a sign of a burnt rectifier or what? Any idea's? I'm replacing the battery first, then the rectifier if need be, is there anything else that could of burnt out. ~ Raymond


The clicking sound is the starter relay. When the battery is dead (or near dead) the relay will click but there isn’t enough juice to turn the thing over. If the display went blank, that could (I said COULD) mean that the reg./rec. or the stator (or both) is fried. The thing to do is put a good battery in it, start it and check the stator/reg./rec. output by connecting a voltmeter to the battery and watching to see that after it starts that the voltage comes up to around 13 to 14 volts. You may have to rev the motor a little (and hold it there) for the reading to come up that high. If the battery voltage stays below that, then there is a possibility that the stator or reg.-rec. or both is bad. Disconnect 3 yellow stator wires from the reg./rec. Start the bike and check that there is AC voltage across any combination of the stator wires. If you rev up the motor, it should be around 70 volts AC between any pair of yellow stator wires. If the stator is putting out and yet the battery voltage is less than indicated above. Then it is the connections of the stator wires to the reg./rec. (notorious for corroding). Or it is the ground of the reg./rec. to the frame/battery. Or the reg./rec. is bad. For a more detailed method of testing the charging system, go to . ~ Tracy



Well here's what happened. My charging system wasn't working. I checked and found that I had 11.8 VDC across the battery at all rpms. So before cleaning the connections, checking the outputs of the stator and rectifier/regulator(R/R) I decided to first look for a fuse. Sure enough there is a 10 amp power source fuse and it was blown. Simple enough! I changed out the fuse, started up the trusty Cade and put the meter across the battery, same thing. About then I noticed a mushroom shaped white cloud (luckily non-nuclear as I found out later) coming up from around the headlight/windshield area. I couldn't remember seeing anything in the service manual that led me to think this was normal so I quickly shut her down. Note: the newly replaced fuse didn't blow again its still good. Lucky me! I've checked the stator and it's putting out 110 VAC at 5,000 rpm on all 3 legs so I didn't melt it. I don't see any sign of burned wiring in the area of the now dissipating mushroom cloud. The R/R was very hot to the touch.

1.        I'm pretty sure the R/R shorted out and I don't think anything else contributed to the problem. What do you guys think?

2. Does anyone have an extra spare R/R they would part with? Or know of a good source. ~ Virgil


Virgil, I would check that the RR is grounded well. Sometimes, it simply can't dissipate the extra energy because of a bad ground. Secondly, the fuse was blown for a reason. Probably not because of the RR but another short somewhere else in the system. If the RR is seeing a direct short, it will get pretty hot pretty fast. Also, the time that it takes to blow a 10 amp fuse could be long enough to heat up the RR. Maybe! Anyway, Electrex is about the best source for replacement RR and the same one used on the Cav also fits at least one other Suzuki. The last I heard, they were out of the right one but they may not be that far out for delivery. ~ Tracy



I’ve seen a lot of questions on the battery sensor and display asking how to bypass it. Its very simple cut the sensor off install an inline fuse and connect the other end to the positive side of the battery. The sensor sits in the acid giving it a positive charge when the acid is low or the sensor is not working the display comes on. ~ Smith



I need the group’s help on some observations and problems I have run into. I finally got a chrome set of covers for my GT. The aluminum ones I had were losing their coating and started to look like they had a disease. I bought a set of used covers that had bad chrome and sent them off to a place called Paul's Chrome Plating in Evans City , PA. They turned out BEAUTIFUL!! The bike hasn't been run, or even turned over, for about 2 months. Last Thursday, I dropped the oil pan plug and let the engine drain until Saturday. When I took the stator cover loose Saturday, I got about another cup of additional oil out of that cover. Here is where my questions come in: 1) The stator and all the components inside the cover seemed to be dry (no oil). I assume that these parts are running in an oil bath when the machine is running? Perhaps the reason they were so dry is that the bike has been sitting for an extended period? 2) There are 4 little plastic parts that have a magnetic "stub" in the center and 2 wires coming from each of them that are placed around the outer portion of the housing and are attached with 2 Phillips head screws. 1st of all, what are these? Are they pick- ups? Secondly, they all seemed to have a little smear of silver (looked like "never-seize") on the top, when looking down into the cover (the part that would face the engine). Is this something special or could it be that the magnets inside just pulled some very, very fine "metal dust" from the oil (the same stuff that accumulates on the magnet of the drain plug)? Also, would it be safe to clean these with some "brake parts and electric motor cleaner" before re-assembly? 3) Those 8 little screws now have names (although I cannot mention them, due to rules of Yahoo)! I had to use an impact screw driver on all but 1 of them. They were incredibly tight (probably the reaction between the aluminum case metal and steel bolts). There was even 1 that I had to use a Craftsman "Drill Out" to remove (excellent tool, by the way! 1st time I used it and had to go to the restroom afterwards, due to the excitement!). My last question is this...does anyone see a problem with replacing the original style screws with hex head bolts? I picked some up and they fit fine. Even with a washer, they don't stick out much passed what the original screws did (maybe 1/32" farther) and there seems to be plenty of clearance inside. My concern is that Suzuki used chrome plated screws and manufacturers normally don't use chrome where standard metal can be used. I was going to use the hex head bolts with a little blue Locktite on them. Think this is OK or should I go to the dealer and buy the screws? 4) In my excitement of finally getting to put my new covers on, I forgot to disconnect the battery until I was almost done disassembling the components inside the stator cover. There were no sparks or anything to indicated the presence of electrical current. Should I worry about other damage I may have done (the key wasn't in the ignition so everything was off)? Lastly, I replaced the original clutch spring w/ Barnett ones while I was into the clutch cover. They were a little longer than the ones I removed. My guess is that they were probably the same length when new. I tried the clutch lever just before and immediately after the swap. There is a noticeable difference but nothing at all that makes it too hard to squeeze, or hold, the clutch lever in. I actually prefer the new feel. I think it will allow the clutch to operate more smoothly and it "feels right" now. Before, it felt kinda sluggish. Unfortunately, I cannot tell just yet how the clutch does. I was having the slippage in the higher gears, especially at lower RPMs. I'll post a message when I finally get her back on the road. Thanks group. I appreciate the help! ~ Mark, ‘86 Grey-On-Grey GT


This morning I went out to start the bike, turned the key heard a faint clicking. I saw the tach jump up but it doesn't turn over... I had the charger on the battery and the battery was low and it did run prior to charging it...any ideas? Thanks, ~ Dan


Sounds like a classic example of dirty terminals to me. Check the ground side at both the battery and the frame. ~ KennG


Don't forget to check all of the fuses as well. ~ Tracy


Pull the battery check the fluid level. There's a good chance that at least one cell is low. ~ Spike




I just fixed the switches in the radio, not too bad of a project. Now have to find my antenna. I took the antenna off and laid some place where I could find it easily. Still haven't found it. Not too long ago I was read on some site about antennas for CB/radio. They stated that on the back one side was the CB and the other was radio. I have forgotten which. Can any one help out? ~ phenry67 '86 XL, br/br


Rear left radio, rear right CB. ~ Tracy


On mine the right side is the CB and the left is the radio. You should be able to easily identify the CB antenna as it has a center load (in the center of the antenna there is a section that is fatter). ~ Brenden


I would say that there are many of the Cav riders that trickle charge their bikes every year without a problem. ~ Tracy


My Cade has just one antenna for both the radio and CB. There's an impedance matching device (made by Honda) that allows the use of a single antenna. ~ Virgil


I just replaced my antenna with one of the newer style short rubber ones. Cost me $3.00 at a local auto parts store. Bike bandit wanted $65.00 dollars for the OEM antenna setup ~ Phil



Tracy , Do you also have the switches for the rear radio/CB controls? My rear volume switch (rotary) is kaput. Only works at full blast. Kind of irritates the wife when she rides and wants to tune me out and listen to the radio. ~ Scott Daily, Carrollton , TX ‘86 LXE


Scott, Sorry, I don't. But, I have been told that a suitable replacement can be had at Radio shack. Just remove the old one and take it in for a match (or near match). The important thing is the ohms rating (I think it's 10K). ~ Tracy


Check the owner's manual for the setting for that. It's a feature built in and controllable. ~ KennG


The Cavalcade has a feature especially designed for riders with a strained relationship with their passengers. It is a radio volume compensator knob. When there is a great deal of ambient noise, the radio compensates by getting louder. The sensitivity of this compensator is adjustable. A guy with a particularly strained relationship with his significant other tends to set the knob to greatest sensitivity, so that when she begins to complain, the radio increases in volume and her voice is drowned. If she raises her voice to compensate, the radio raises its voice. When she finally gives up and quiets down, the radio resumes playing at a comfortable level. Suzuki thought of everything. ~ Spike


Scott: Radio Shack does not carry that small of a potentiometer. The replacement can be found from Clarostat. It is the model 580, 10k, flattened shaft, and single pole. What you need to do is modify the shaft. It comes too long. I am also enclosing the spec. sheet on it. Their site gives you dealers. ~ Mike C. ‘86LX



Hello All, I have always had to turn the balance on the stereo all the way to one side or the other to hear the voice part of the music when listening through the speakers. Listening through the head set the balance seemed to work fine. I just read through the tech seminar file and noticed in the radio section that there is a DX/LO button listed on the radio. I went to check mine and this button says LO/SE instead of DX/LO. I tried pushing on the LO side of the button and the letters LO show on the radio display but no change in sound. When I pushed on the SE side of the button the sound got fuller through the speakers. I moved the balance knob to the middle position and now this thing rocks! I was given another radio when I bought this bike and was told that the original was replaced because the buttons didn't work any more. I checked the old radio and the DX/LO button was there. I checked the model number on the two units and they are different. Does anyone know what the LO/SE button is and what the differences are between these two models? I can get the model numbers if that will help. ~ Bob Morse 86LX


Of course you already know that DX/LO means distant and local. Possibly, the LO/SE means approximately the same but it could also be a mono/stereo switch but I kinda doubt that. The local/distant has to do with the antenna attenuation or some crap that helps pick up distant stations and also clears up local stations. ~ Tracy


With my experience in radios & the Clarion in particular, a DX/LO switch is solely for the radio, not tape. DX means Distant, LO means Local (as in radio stations) sometimes if a radio station is close to you & you have it set on DX the station may overpower your radio - then switch to LO. As for the LO/SE switch, each side of this switch is it's own on/off switch - the LO side turns the Local setting on & off, while the SE side stands for Stereo Expansion - creating a fuller, richer sound. Press SE to turn it on, press again to turn it off. Think of it as 2 switches with one button... I am guessing that the earlier models had the DX/LO switch while the later models had the LO/SE. Mine is an 87LXE w/ orange knob labels and I have a LO/SE switch. Hope this helps, ~ Brian 87LXE in CT


Perhaps that radio was meant for the European market. Maybe SE is short for some foreign word meaning "distance". I did find out by accident that by holding one of the buttons down, forget which one, and powering up the radio, the tuning steps switched to the European standard. 9khz steps on AM and 88.0 - 107.8, even Mhz spacing on FM. Repeating the same step switches it back to North American standard tuning. I did replace only the one switch that was broken on my radio this winter and it is back working as it should. Still have a spare switch in case another one craps out. ~ Mike


Talk of the radio button with "SE and LO" on it thought I might be able to figure it out. I have 2 radios one from an 87 LXE and one from an 88 LX - both show SE & LO. The original manual indicates 2 different functions - not really related it seems. The LO side of the button when pressed when on determines sensitivity when using the automatic tuning. If pressed down for Low Sensitivity "LO" shows in the window with the frequency and when the automatic tuning is used on the handlebar or passenger controls, only the strongest stations will be accessed.

The "SE" side of the button (SE stands for Sound Field Expansion Button) and is used to select either Normal or Expanded sound when listening to a stereo sound. It has no effect on a non-stereo sound. ~ Al from Mass

PS: The gremlins Nancy is always talking about stuck my ‘88's radio. The ‘88 LX parts bike had a working radio when I bought it last year and In 2000 I had the buttons replaced in my ‘87 so pulled the ‘87 and have been using the ‘88. When checking for this email LO and BEHOLD buttons on the ‘88 have now stuck.


You can send the radio to Sierra electronics and they will fix the tape deck, clean the whole thing and put new radio switches on for you. Their specialty is motorcycle sound systems...just go to It will list phone numbers and email addresses. Hope this helps. ~ Nancy in Ohio


What’s the cheapest way to get the (in helmet) equipment and the cords to hook up the stereo and intercom features? All that came with mine is one curly cord. ~ Marty in Tennessee '86 LX


Marty, If you have the 5-pin din connectors on your headset, just plug it in. All the connections to the CB and intercom are internal. On my 86 LX, and I believe all others, the stereo and intercom are controlled by the radio controls and the CB is controlled from the controls on the left handle bar. In saying this, I'm assuming that when you said yours came with a curly cord, you meant your headset. Still looking for good weather, ~ Red 86 LX



My radio works fine on IS and Tape, but is virtually a no go (sound and reception) on the FM band. Any suggestions? ~ Mikey



I got my radio switches yesterday and replaced them last night. Now my radio is working again. I've never done any electronics soldering, but you guys made it sound so simple I gave it a try after printing the instructions from One tip is to keep track of where all the different screws come from. There is a lot to remove and it will be a lot easier to put your radio back together if you separate and mark where they all go. Now my radio’s working again but it’s still too cold up here in NH to ride. Soon! Thanks everyone! ~ Phil



Hi Folks I am new to this group, I have an 86 XL and love it. My question is after I removed the Tank cover to replace the air filter. I found this bunch of wires that I assume is for an intercom system. Is this correct? Where would I look for a mike and headset? Thanks ~ Rick Weiss





Can the individual bladders be replaced? When I bought the bike, the rear seat bladders worked fine, but the drivers seat bladders don't inflate at all.




I have had the question numerous times lately, "what's on the Cavalcade CD-ROM?" So, here we go.

1) The entire Factory Service Manual as of 1990. This is the same manual that Suzuki distributed to the shops for the mechanics to use. It is 400 pages in length and covers the bike from tip to tail.

2) Technical Seminar Manual - This is a 40 page manual that appears to be what was distributed to the mechanics when the bike first came out. Not a lot of service info, but a wealth of interesting tech-head stuff.

3) 23 Factory Accessory Installation guides - These cover all (or at least the vast majority) of accessories offered by Suzuki such as extra lights, chrome trim, covers, rails etc. There are also 2 guides for after market items. One is for the Markland backrest and one for the Posa cruiser bar. There are about 50-60 pages in all.

4) 14 Magazine Articles - Most of these are from major bike magazines of the day and include articles specific to the Cavalcade and some comparison articles to the other luxury cruisers. There is also a couple of steering articles and one on trailering. About 104 pages in all.

5) Manuals for the CB - This includes two installation guides (a Clarion and a Suzuki), a service manual, and guide for the headset wiring and junction wiring guides. About 70 pages worth.

6) Sound Troubleshooting Guide - 40 pages of block diagram troubleshooting for the entire sound system.

7) Brochure and Magazine Ads - the brochure and 3 magazine ads of the day.

8) The Entire Owners Manual - the 68 page owners manual that came with each bike.

9) Parts Book - The entire parts microfiche. 80 pages x 2 images per page.

10) Clarion Radio Service Manual - the 32 page Clarion radio service manual.

11) Misc. - The latest version of Adobe Acrobat Reader (all of the files open in Acrobat), a couple of pictures and letters.

All in all, there are over 900 pages contained on the CD. Most of which applies directly to the Cavalcade. It is the culmination from various sources including several extra-kind Cav members that were trusting enough to send me materials for inclusion and wait forever for me to return them. ~ Thanks, Tracy



Are there any after-market exhaust systems for cavalcades out there? My bike is just too quiet. I'd like to give it a little noise. ~ Phil

JC-Whitney has a reasonably priced setup, some have found it to be too loud, but I figure I can still hear the HD on the other side of the freeway at 70mph... so it's not really that bad. You should be able to search the message archives and find detailed information, I think I posted some pictures too.


JC Whitney... online catalog. Under... motorcycle... mufflers. 1zx7036w for the 27" ... 1zx7037w for the 32" ... and don’t forget the 01zx1105n 3" clamps to hold them on. I used the 27" and only had to make up a shot bracket to go from the stock mounting hole to the 3" clamp. Mufflers come with the muffler clamp. Makes a little bit of noise but sounds AOK (to me). Will have to put the quit ones on when the S.O. rides with me but they're gonna be great when alone and cruising. ~ KennG



Anyone tried to install the backrest (through seat) from Utopia? I've ordered one and I hope I don't wreck my newly reupholstered saddle. Ordered parts from MAWonline. They were great and had everything I needed. My dealer couldn't get half the stuff from Parts Canada for 3 months. These will be here in 7 days, to my door. Heaven ~ Steve in Canada with an ‘87


I put the Utopia back rest on my Cavalcade 3 years ago. Actually, I live about 40 miles from the guy who makes them so I took the seat off one February day and drove to his house (he was making them at home at that time) and had him install it in my seat. I was just a little nervous about making the cut in the seat cover to install the unit so I let him do it (just in case!). After watching him, I wouldn't hesitate to put one in myself! All that is required is drilling 2(?) holes in the bottom of the seat pan, making a slit in the seat (on the horizontal portion just behind the drivers position) and putting nuts on the studs that go through the 2 holes you drilled. The whole procedure took only 10 minutes! I opted for the removable model, as I wasn't sure how I'd like having the back rest. Now, I can't ride without it! They did some clever engineering on the brackets so you have both a height adjustment & a forward/aft adjustment. The cost for mine at the time was around $150.00 w/ the option to be removable. Their web address is And don't worry about the slit you have to make getting any bigger - they supply a grommet with adhesive that goes around it and that portion of the seat doesn't stretch when you sit on the bike. It actually gathers! Great product and nice match to the original upholstery and custom made for your particular bike. If anyone wants, I can post a photo of mine. Good luck! ~ Mark Musial - 86 Grey-on-Grey GT in Ohio


Mark, does your Cade have the air bladder seat? Are the Utopia back rests useable on those that do? I thought that the bladder went all the way through the seat, front to back. I'm in the market for a back rest and I know I would much rather having the Utopia style than the Markland, but didn't think I could. ~ Red 86LX


All the bladders in the seat are individual. On the LXE there are three in the driver's seat alone. One each on each side of the seat itself and a lumbar one in the back portion. The rest can be installed without hitting the lumbar bladder. Just use care. I'm NOT going to just plunge the knife right into it. I'm gonna make the slit and gently cut and probe till I get to the bottom of it. ~ KennG


Physically replacing them is not a big problem and can be done. Where to find a replacement is the problem. Testing them is fun. Try using a squeeze bulb pump, for pumping up footballs, basketballs etc, to test individual bladders. They can be picked up at Wal-Mart for about $5 and the valve stem from an auto tire with the rubber coating stripped off and the valve removed will finish the task. Don't over look the tubing. Automotive tubing for the windshield washer works just fine. ~ KennG



Does anyone know where I can get the hose to inflate the tires from the compressor? ~ Scott Daily, Carrollton , TX


Scott, I bought mine from JC Whitney, but you can also use the one sold by Honda dealers for the GW's. ~ Al from Mass



Last fall while washing the Cade I dropped the sponge, thought I had cleaned it good but a few deep scratches later I realized I hadn't. OK need a windshield. Didn't really want to try & make one so went to a Suzuki shop (Bedford Suzuki) in Bedford , PA. J C Whitney had the on sale for $86.95 Bedford Suzuki got me mine for $80.00 the exact same thing that was on my Cade. Also the speedometer gear is making a lot of noise so I ordered one of those... $60.00 and also got an air filter while I was there. They said if someone needs anything give them a call. Bedford Suzuki-Yamaha, Inc. 8762 Lincoln Highway Bedford, Pa 115522 toll free 1-877-441-0890 The Suzuki dealer near here kept telling us they couldn't get anything as is was discontinued. Oh well, he lost a customer. ~ Gary ‘87 LXE in PA



Hello All, I am in need of the plastic chromed screw covers for the screws that hold on chrome strip over the wind shield screws. I have looked on Tracy 's CD and this part doesn't seem to be listed. Does anyone know where I can find these? ~ Bob Morse 86LX


Bob, Try the Parts book on Pg. 60, fig 79, index #30. Pn 94457-24A10. I think those might be the ones you are seeking. ~ Virgil


If you can't find any from the group I would try the local hardware store. They have chrome caps that should fit, if not they may have a larger selection in the black plastic caps that wouldn’t look to bad. ~ Roy in TX


Lar and I have used the black plastic caps from the Hardware store. The cost was 29 cents apiece and they look great. ~ Nancy in Ohio ‘86LXE

Bob, On the CD in the parts book file page 59, figure 78 item 32 part #94457-24A00 ~ Tracy


I don't know where you can find those caps but a suitable substitute is the cover used for license plate screws, a couple faucet washers, and some longer screws. Run the longer screws through the cover base, through one (or two) faucet washers (for height adjustment), into the bike, and tighten. When it's all done, snap the chrome covers in place and no one will be the wiser. ~ Kenn


If I remember correctly these are special cap covers with two ears on them which hook around a clip that is held down by the screw. There is also a round piece of hard foam, which is inserted under the cap to keep pressure on the cap against the clip. The cap has two small slits on the outer edge, they are there so the special tool which came with the Cavalcade (should have been on the key chain) when new, could be inserted and turned to remove. Many people don't know that the caps have to be turned to be removed. They just pry them out, breaking off the ears on the cap. ~ Ccasclair


I wonder if this is the correct part and they just showed it in the wrong spot. On my Cade there is no plug in this location as the Cavalcade emblem covers it. The plug should show over the screw marked # 14. What do you all think? ~ Bob Morse 86LX


Bought mine through the dealer 2 years ago. Very reasonable (maybe $1 - $2 ea.). ~


Bob, CAP FR COVER Bike Bandit part # 519385-001, $4.98 ea. ~ Dwayne 86LX


Bob, Any hardware store has hole covers or plugs. Check in the bin section where specialty items are kept. Black or chromed. ~ Larry



Anybody have the black plastic parts that cover the front of the right side bag on the chrome piece on the bottom of the bag? Mine fell of last summer. Or any ideas what to do with the chrome corner with the holes still there to make look better. Thanks. ~ Kirby, ‘86 LX


Those end caps for the side bumpers were available through Bike Bandit, They're around 15.00 each for the caps ONLY no hardware with a little ingenuity you won't need the hardware. ~ Walter n Maryland



I am going to have these guys do the seat on my Cade and thought I would pass the info on to you guys. In the past there has been mention of the Russell seats. Well management has changed hands but the craftsman ship is the same. They have moved from Fall River Mills to Shasta Lake just outside Redding CA . The shop is right off I-5 so you can stop in when in the area and see what they do. The web site is ~ Pappy




Hey folks. If you need the replacement switches for the Clarion radio, I have them on my secure server now.

The reason I am offering them is because if you order just 16 switches from Digikey, you pay $.38 each plus a $5 handling fee plus shipping. That makes 'em about $13 or $14 for a set of 16. I offer a set of 16 for $5.80, which includes postage. And, if you order them at the same time you order a Cavalcade CD-ROM, I'll even knock off another $1 since I can put them in the same envelope as the CD. ~ I will also be offering billet aluminum front-brake and clutch master cylinder covers in a few days. I will send pics to the group when they are ready. Just go to and click the CD link in the upper left-hand corner. ~ Tracy



Okay folks. They're done. I am now making available CNC milled, billet aluminum front brake and clutch master cylinder caps for the Cavalcade. There are two styles, one with the Suzuki "S" and another with the Cavalcade "Rider" on his horse. ~ The "S" and the rider are filled with black paint and the caps are polished to a mirror finish. They also include polished stainless steel button-head cap screws that replace the stock screws. They completely cover the stock caps and take just a minute to install. ~ They are $37 a pair (that price includes postage). You can order them as a matched set of either style or one of each. You can buy them on-line at Click on the CD-ROM link at the top left corner of that page. It will take you to the secure order form for credit card purchase. You can also order them by phone at 620-241-1515 or you can send a check or money order to the address below. Lead time will generally be less than a week so I should be able to ship within a few days of receiving an order. ~  Tracy Presnell, 1980 Palomino Trail, McPherson , KS 67460 USA . Telephone: 620-241-1515


MORE: Due to the request of a Cader that ordered a set of "rider" MC covers, a set of the "rider" type will be a "mirrored" pair. In other words, the riders will be facing each other or facing away from each other when installed.

It will take a few days to get them programmed that way so please be patient if you have submitted an order already. ~ For those that want a mixed pair (one S and one rider), you will have the choice of which direction you want the rider to face (left or right). Thanks, ~ Tracy




I am looking for driver’s foot rests both sides. I also need the shifter lever and rod. ~ Tom:



I just got my Cade back from the mechanic and found damage to the upper shell on the right side. I'll be looking for anyone parting out an 87 Cade that still has the upper right shell. Drop me a line if anyone has the part.

Thanks, ~ Micky "Gray 87 LX"



Group, I 'm looking for a box assembly speedometer gear # 54600-24A00. The new parts are too much money. Maybe someone has an extra to sell me for less money. Let me know at ~ Dennis R.



Does anyone have an antenna cable they would like to sell? ~ "zukicade"



I am looking for a front rim for my Cade. My 86lx rim has become a sieve and is loosing air through the metal. The original ones were made of a soft material. If anyone has one for sale, let me know. My tires are fine. ~ Mike C., 86LX



We now have a trailer ready for the road but no trailer hitch. Have been on the web but can't find one for a Cade anywhere. Anyone have any idea where to purchase one? Ride safe ~ Gary in Pa 87 LXE


Go to Click on links and then look for trailer hitch. This should take you to the Australian wed site that sells them. ~ Dave SCCUK




Hey Jay, Steve Rice here in Arkansas . Well, it looks like I am going to have to sell the 'ol Cade this spring. I just need the money for other things for the house right now. It’s an ‘87 LXE. I have matching brand new helmets with intercoms ant the bike in burgundy and gray with a new battery, new whitewall front tire. Driver floorboards like you've never seen before, dash mat, new windshield and windshield side extenders, custom stainless steal polished trim here and there, a carpeted trunk, caliper covers on the front wheel, and a freshly died seat. It’s all there and runs great. It has something like 41,000 miles on her. If you would, could you please get the word out to the club for me. I really don't know what to ask for her. I gave $3,900 1.5 years ago and have done a lot to her but not ridden it very much. I even took the license plate reflector off and did the 'ol third tail light trick with it. It’s a very nice bike and I will miss it. I know when I can afford another big bike, I probably won't be able to find another one like this one. It also has a driver's backrest with a pouch on the back. I was thinking with helmets and all that I would like to get at least $3,800. I would like to get $4,200 but I need to sell her kind of quick. Thanks very, very much!! Steve Rice, Fort Smith , Arkansas



Too many Bikes in the garage and I must sell. One owner Excellent Condition. All offers considered. Contact me at,or Cell 253 229-9265



1986 Cavalcade GT. It has 22380 miles always stored inside, never been wrecked or damaged. It is very much like when it came from the factory except for a lot of extra lights and chrome. It was bought new by my brother in ‘86 and he passed away the next year and it came to me. I don't have the time to ride it and my wife feels that its time to go. I want $5000 cash. I don't think there is a better one out there. I can be contacted at 319-752-0942 or . I do have some pictures. ~ Rolland Meismer


1987 Cavalcade, LXE, Black & Grey, 64,184 miles. One owner purchased new in October 1987. Adult, Police Officer, driven, garage kept. It has heel & toe shifter, Markland driver's backrest, Markland trailer hitch. Hitch install & trailer wiring done by dealer. Reaminder of bike is "stock" and all in sound working order. Bike has never been down in either accident or tip over. Matching Grey HJC helmets with intercom headsets/mic's installed (Med & XL). Bike has all stock options except CB radio. Pictures can be e-mailed on request. Asking $4,000. Contact Jim at or (727)723-2822. Reason for sale: Wife can no longer ride and have therefore lost interest in touring.



!986 GV1400Gt ....very good condition externally....probably needs valve job possible complete rebuild and a clutch.....selling due to lack of and cost of parts...refuse to pay high labor.....will part out as last resort....whole bike $1500 OBO... anybody got any better ideas I'd damn sure listen....Thanks, One Grumpy Cuz My Bikey Broke A---you know the rest! ~



For sale in Texas , 1986 Cavalcade LX, Garage kept, excellent condition, extra clean, 53,000 miles, asking $ 3,700. Phone (940) 564-5449. This was seen advertised in the Wichita Falls paper. This Gentleman is the third owner I think, If so I was the second and I purchased this beautiful machine in 1988. I sold it in 1999 simply because I had two Cades. ~ Fitz in Texas



HELLO GANG CHOPPER HERE I just thought I’d drop you all a line since I don’t get too chat vary often. I've been vary busy and not a lot of time on my hands. I have started a custom hat and tee shirt business and doing well with this I can print custom logos on hats, shirts, mouse pads and even photos on whatever. Turn around time is quick and I’ll give special prices to any of the members of this group. Having said that, I will be riding solo this year. My lovely wife and I are expecting our first child we are very excited. But due to Beth’s health her doctor does not want her to ride so. “Ya Hoo!” I’ll be making appearances by my self just shorter ones. I would like to make some hats and shirts for the group but I'd like some input on what (as a group) we would like on them. Do we have an official logo? For the people going to Americade, would you folks like to put some shirts together? I could send them with Brian let me know. I have new equipment ready to print. So help me out with some ideas ~

Chopper, E-mail:


I think it's about time to come up with group T-shirt. One if the group members have a printing business. So it will be easy to have them made. I would like to have on it nice Eagle and Stars and Stripes with Cavalcade picture and sign Cavalcade USA . For me this would have to be printed on a black shirt, but I am sure I could have a white one too. Chopper had an idea to have Cade picture on the back of the shirt with sign "touring classic" and the years it was made... I don't know about you people, but I NEED a cavalcade T-shirt! Let's come up with some good ideas, and turn it in to reality. Ride On ~ Wojo , Kent WA


Well, it's not a T-shirt (haven't gotten to that yet) but, is there any interest in ball caps? I already had the design made up and a local embroidery shop is quoting it. I have attached a picture of the layout (please ignore the colors) the entire design will be in a gold thread. I would like to offer them in colors that approximately match the different base colors of the Cade. If there is enough interest, I will proceed with having them made. It will take about 4 weeks to get them but then I should have a supply on hand for additional requests. This design is the right size for the left breast of a sweatshirt or even a polo-shirt and if there is interest in them, I can also make them available. Let me know if there is any interest. ~ Tracy E-mail:


Hi, We have a black cap with the horse and Cavalcade underneath as on the emblems. These cost £8 each, that's about $14. ~ Dave, SCCUK, e-mail: 




Wednesday, we went about a block from our house to a big parking lot at a church for Barb to ride her bike. She did great but was too tense. I was getting ready to call her over and tell her to go over on the grass and let the cycle fall and go ahead and get it over. About that time she drove up with a big grin and looked back at me and turned her handlebars to the left and went over. She did not hurt herself --- thank goodness. She got right back on and rode again ------ a lot more relaxed and even drove the bike off the lot back to the house. Today, Sunday, she said she wanted to ride. (Weather prediction was 80% chance of rain) I figured ok. We talked about going to a road about 500 yards from the house that is about 1/2 mile long so she could practice or if we did not turn, we could go straight out this county road with 3 curves. We hooked up our cell phones with hands free connections and vox. When we got to the road I asked if she wanted me to turn or go straight. She said, "Go straight, I am ready!" We left about noon and got back about 6:30pm . We drove over 100 miles. We drove through town to a drive in grocery and ate lunch. Crossed the Colorado River twice. Did an overpass. We even did a highway for about 3 miles. She is really proud of herself and I am very proud of her. We had stopped to take a break here in town and a local policeman drove up on his bike and we took off again for another ride for about 30 something miles. We really had a blast today! Barb will always remember her 55th birthday. (She said a couple weeks ago that she wanted to do something special on her birthday...never dreamed this would be it.) Glad I bought straps for both bikes. Looks like we will need them. It never did rain but there were some puddles of water on the roads sometimes. ~ 



Just finished up a weekend going through the Basic Rider course offered by the Mid Tenn. Motorcycle Education Center and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. I can't say enough about the experience. I would recommend that everyone make an effort to attend one of the available courses in their area. Even the old timers might be able to benefit from the experience. We had 12 in this class with the ages running from 14 to 61 years young. The 61 year old had been riding all of his life. Several were there because they had recently been involved in an accident and learned almost to late that there's got to be a better way. It's an excellent opportunity to refresh or learn the basics. There's also an advanced course for experienced riders. Here in Tenn. after completing the basic course the written and riding portions are waived for the motorcycle endorsement to our license. For more info check out the Motorcycle Safety Foundation or your local dealers. ~ Virgil


I agree with Virgil. I went through the course about a year ago and after having ridden bikes on and off for over 30 years, learned more than enough to make the course worth while. For those of you who may live in Texas , taking an approved course can also substitute for the riding portion of the driver's license exam. The instructors are great and work well with all levels of riders. Texas also has an advanced course that you take on your own bike and I'm going to take that one too when I get a little more proficient on the Cade. ~ Scott Daily, Carrollton , TX






Sunday, 9/15/02

Arrival and Check-in at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort 

5:00 pm – 10:00 pm Exhibitor Set-up  (Exhibitors Only)


Monday, 9/16/02

8:00 am – 10:00 am      Exhibitor Set-Up

9:00 am – 5:00 pm        Registration Open

9:00 am – 1:00 pm        Self-Guided Tour of Branson 

10:00 am – 5:00 pm      Exhibits Open

1:00 pm – 4:30 pm        Classes or Workshops

4:30 pm – 5:45 pm        Reception in the Cardinal Room

6:00 pm – 9:00 pm          Welcome Dinner and Imax Theater Show


Tuesday, 9/17/02

9:00 am – 5:00 pm   Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm   Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 12:00 am   Classes or Workshops

12:00 pm – 2:00 pm   Ride the Ducks to Lunch:

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm Group Rides


Evening ( 7:30 – 10:30 pm ) “Country Tonite” Live Music & Comedy Show


Wednesday, 9/18/02

9:00 am – 12:00 noon   Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm   Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 12:30 pm   Classes or Workshops

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm   Group Rides

Evening 7:00pm – 10:00pm Awards Dinner ~ Prizes and Awards


Thursday, 9/19/02   (Optional Day)

Spend the day at Silver Dollar City Theme Park  and enjoy an evening dinner cruise and a show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell Cruise


Friday, 9/20/02   (Optional Day)

Enjoy a second day free at the Silver Dollar City Theme Park. OR, ride to Lake of the Ozarks or another area that provides us a day’s ride through the Ozarks before heading home.  Over-night stay at a local resort or motel.






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Shirts are included with pre-registrations received by August 1, 2002

All fees go to the expenses for Cade Raid 2002.


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PLEASE MARK OPTIONAL CHOICES BELOW. Registration Fees Do Not Include Lodging or the following Optional Events. Complete this Form by Marking the Following and Calculating Your Total Payment Below.


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____  Tuesday Noon , “Ride The Ducks” Lunch @ $21.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Tuesday Evening Show “County Tonite” @ $22.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Wednesday Evening Awards Dinner @ $20.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Thursday & Friday Optional Days at Silver Dollar City Theme Park with Dinner Cruise and a Live Show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell @ $75.00 per Person: $ _______


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Return Completed Form To:                         Cade Raid 2002

PHONE: 425-868-0464                   23703 NE 4th Street

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Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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