The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #23 ~ June, 2002
Jay D. Johnson, Editor

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  CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

      CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri. You can visit their web site at


      Plans include exhibits; classes and workshops; rides through the scenic Ozarks; evening entertainment packages; an awards dinner and other surprises. Our goal is to gather at least 100 Cavalcades in one location.


      You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Owner’s Group meeting (“CADE RAID 2002”) to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a rate of $55.00 per night. The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer. The toll-free phone number for reservations is 1-800-942-3553. Those who wait until the last minute may have a difficult time finding lodging.





West Coast Caders will gather for a day of riding and admiring each other’s Cavalcades. Everyone should plan to arrive at Tahoe on Saturday evening July 20th. We will have a breakfast meeting from 8 to 10 o’clock on Sunday, July 21st at Mulligan’s restaurant. From 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., we will take a scenic ride. Spies are in the Tahoe area now who are planning the ride’s route. Everyone will be provided a map just so no one gets lost. We will have a social hour from 6:00 to 7:00 and then dinner. Next morning (Monday) we will head for home.


There is NO cost for this gathering other than the normal cost of gas, lodging and meals. We have a group rate for the breakfast and dinner on Sunday at Mulligan’s restaurant. If you think you will come to the West Coast Cade Raid at South Lake Tahoe, please send me an email ( and give your name(s) and your location. If you want, I’ll see if I can match up riders so you can share the road together. This information will also help me judge how many people we will need to feed at these two meals and how many bikes we will need to plan for the ride.


Riders from Western Washington State and British Columbia will meet at 10:00 a.m. on Friday at the McDonald’s in Fife, Washington. (Take Exit #137 off I-5). Email:



The date for the Wisconsin Cade raid will be the weekend of July 27th. I think we will meet the same as last year, with Nora Tavern being the breakfast spot. Everyone is invited, including non-Cade owners. If you want me to set up a special rate at the motel again, Please let me know. If All would prefer a different motel, also let me know. Please email me at to let me know if interested. The ride this year will go to Blue Mounds WI and north. I looked at the Mississippi run. It would be difficult to accomplish on a weekend run for those coming from a distance to get here. Not saying that we couldn't ride to the river and back. Let's have some input on this. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisc.



A while back you talked about the AMA Crossroads Rally in Ohio and about the Cades' possibly getting together there and making it a Cade raid. I looked up the dates Aug 1-4. Has anyone said anything more about it? I know Gary & I are interested and Dan & Kathy will probably be making it also. Also has anyone thought anymore about the West Virginia Cade raid? We had great time with everyone at Lake George and guess we're ready for another get together. Take care & ride safe, Gary n Carol PA ‘87LXE



If you were unable to attend the Indy Cade Raid this past weekend (June 22-23), you missed a great ride. It was hot, but it is always fun to be riding with fellow Cade owners. ~ Following a hearty breakfast at Bob Evans, we drew names from a helmet for motorcycle-related door prizes. Frank Haines and his son, Jason, did a great job mapping out the run. We traveled over 300 miles visiting Indiana's Old Mills and Covered Bridges. We had eight motorcycles (7 bikes & 1 trike) and fifteen people. We were pleased to meet Jim and Patsy Perry from Winamac. This was their first Cade Raid. We were pleasantly surprised to see Dave and Deborah Williams and their son Todd. You will remember some inconsiderate motorist wiped out Dave's Cade last week. Not wanting to miss the fun, he rented a Milwaukee Machine and joined us. Only four Cades camped overnight at Valley Branch in Nashville. All eight of us stayed in the bunkhouse complete with air conditioning, refrigerator and two microwaves. We really roughed it! We are looking forward to Branson and putting faces with the names of those we have met via e-mail. God bless, ~ Bob D. Indy/Gideon (Message #25308)



MONDAY 8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Eastern USA Time) World-Wide Chat



7:00 – 9:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) Southeastern States

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Central Time) Texas & the Southwest

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) California



7:00 – 8:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) Canadian (In French)

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) Eastern Canada (In English)

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) Western Canada (In English)



7:00 – 9:00 p.m. (Eastern Time) New England and East Coast States

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Central Time) Mountain & Midwest States

8:00 – 10:00 p.m. (Pacific Time) Northwest States


EUROPEAN CHAT: From 18:00 to 20:00 GMT

MONDAY: English    ~   TUESDAY: Dutch/Benelux   ~   WEDNESDAY: Norwegian & Swedish


Of course, everyone is welcome to go into the chat room at any time. But the established times should encourage members from specific regions to get together and chat.





For at least the next couple of months there is going to be a change in the size and look of this newsletter. We’d like to reduce its size. Thirty plus pages is just too much for some folks’ in-box to handle. So, we are going to post only selected items and give you the reference numbers to find complete strings of messages in the club’s archives. Let us know what you think of this new format. ~ Newsletter Editor




Hey Group, Was wondering if anyone could shed a little light on the subject motorcycle speed versus auto speed. The reason for this question is that since my bike was totaled and put back together I've noticed that my speed odometer tends to run about 10 miles per-hour faster than my actual speed. My tire size is exactly what the book calls for. I had to replace the instrument panel when I rebuilt the bike back. Can anyone shed any light as to why this might be happening? I've had this problem for about 8000 miles now. If at all possible I would like to correct this problem. Thanks ~ Vada S

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24604 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



The Hogs are very good bikes and have less trouble than most. I had one for many years. It was older than Clinton and a lot smarter too. It was a 49 model, no electric starter, and just a catapult that tried to slingshot you into the air on cold mornings. You could sit a glass of water on the seat and after a couple minutes, hardly a drop was left. The seat doubled as a plow and was covered with genuine cowhide and nothing else. It was a comfortable as a marble slab. God, how I loved that bike. ~ Maybe I'm jealous cause I don't have all that bread to toss for a new pig. They sound pretty good, but this Cadelac rides much better top heavy or not. A couple weeks back I actually gave a high five to one and got one back. Hmm, maybe they are so lonely that the wave made them feel accepted. What do you think? ~ Grandpa86

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25628 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I have an '86 LX with all the accessories that an LXE has. I was replacing the horns and I noticed a toggle switch above and slightly forward of the horns. It’s nearly impossible to see but there it is anyway! I flipped it a couple of times with the bike running and not running--didn't seem to do anything. Anybody got an idea what its purpose is? It appears to be a factory installation. Help! ~ John


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25635 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



About three years ago, my good friend and former college roommate went on a camping trip and there met young HeyJerr, who was camping with his newly purchased Cade. He admired HeyJerr's bike and offered that his friend (me) had one of these. HeyJerr gave him the Cavacade_USA site, he passed it on to me, and here am I. ~ On a camping trip this weekend with this same friend and former roommate, we came upon a group of bikers. I began to jawbone with them and learned that one of the group, LeRoy LeBeaf, used to ride a Cavalcade but had crashed it beyond repair after a particularly viscous tank slapper. Turns out he still has the bike, which I may go see in a couple weeks. Perhaps we can get him to sell it for parts. ~ I had not realized it before, but I am now wondering if front-end oscillations are a systematic problem with the Cade. I have had this happen to me exactly once on the Cade, several times on a GS850G I used to have. The Cade wobble was a relatively mild one and did not cause me to crash. We know of another guy who totaled a Cade after a tank slapper caused him to drop it. The story is on
the Cade site so how many of you guys have had a tank slapper on the Cade? What were the results? Should add a column to the VIN list, just a yes or no, had a wobble or not? Would a Superbrace help prevent a front-end wobble? ~ Spike


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25263 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.


 11 TO 12 OUNCES

I'm one of those people who use additives. I just changed the secondary fluid and used full synthetic and added 3oz of Tuffstuff. (The Tuffstuff people say it's ok to add to any fluid) I added a total of 16 oz of fluid. Does anyone think that I am asking for trouble? Will any excess just be pushed out the top tube? Also I have an 88LX with about 11k miles. Should I cork it in the near future just to make sure? Are the 88's plugs the same as the earlier ones or did
they improve on the later ones? Thanks. Joe in Co.


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24518 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I'm changing the gear oil today; the book calls for sae-90, gl-5. All I can find here is SAE 80-90, is that ok to use ~ Richie
p.s.-- the oil that I drained out had about 1,000 miles on it and it looked as clean as the day I put it in, I used 80-90 then because I couldn't find straight 90

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24548 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Ok here is one for you guys and gals. My bike will not shut off. I went for a ride today and when I got back home the bike will not shut off. This is a new one for me. I had to take battery cables off in order to shut the thing down can somebody tell me were to start looking to try and get this back on the road thanks ~ Chuck Boerema ‘87 gray on silver

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24529 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



My secondary has filled with motor oil and is blowing out the breather routed up the frame. This is after about a 100 miles of riding. Since I pulled the secondary. The funny thing is that when I drained the motor oil to tear down the bike to cork it, the motor oil smell like gear oil was getting in and the gear oil was low. Now it seems to have reversed. Is there any other way for oil to migrate to the secondary other than through the main seal? I seated the main seal for the out put shaft of the motor all the way down in the seat of the secondary. Is that too far? Or should it have been flush with the face? When installing the secondary, should it go all the way back against the block when pushed in? Or does that spring hold it out the last 1/4 " letting the bolt do the rest? Help! ~ Frank Co Sp 86LX


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24569 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Does the seal, the flanged edge face toward the bleeder valve or toward the engine? Toward the bleeder valve seems logical but that don't mean its right. Also can you use gasket cement for the generator cover? ~ Bob Richey


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24606 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I could use some help with finding about some leaks I found after returning from the Myrtle Beach bike week.
Before I left I found that my top reservoir for the radiator was empty. The reservoirs were replaced last year as they had split at the seams. I added 15 oz. to bring the level up to where I could see it. After the 550 mile trip I checked it again and was down about 10 of the 15 oz. I had added. There have been no puddles under the bike and I can find no evidence of an antifreeze leak. Where is the antifreeze going? How do I find out? ~ I also have an oil leak from a bolt between the cylinders. I have pictures of this leak and can send them if needed to help resolve this
issue. All help is appreciated, ~ Bob Morse, ‘86LX

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24311 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I know that CADES do not have a chain; however, I have a friend that was injured in a strange motorcycle wreck. I happened in a curve that he had ridden many times and he was not going extremely fast; however for some unknown reason he and the bike ran off of the road and crashed. At this time, he does not know (or can not remember) why or how he and the bike ran off of the road. ~ After the crash while looking at the bike, it was discovered that the manual chain adjuster was broken which resulted in the rear wheel getting cocked in the rear swingarm. QUESTION: Did the chain adjuster break causing the wreck OR did it get broken during the crash? Does anyone have any knowledge of chain adjusters breaking and if they break while riding did they result in causing the bike to be forced off of the road? Thanks in advance for your information. ~ David Williams, Evansville, Indiana

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25626 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Read Bob Morse's email today and it sounds like we both are having the same problem with our front brakes. Here is my story. When I bought the Cade the guy told me that he replaced one of the front calipers and the brakes needed a little more bleeding. I have a vacuum pump so I hooked it to the bleeder and ran a quart of brake fluids through the system. The brakes were worst then when I started. The front brakes could be pumped a couple of times and the lever would get a little better but not much. I rode the bike last week to the Honda Hoot in Knoxville, TN (about 700 miles around trip). The brakes seem to get better but I still did not have a very firm lever. I order a piston set for the front master cylinder. Thinking that the piston in the master cylinder was not building up enough pressure when the lever was applied. After installing the piston set and once again bleeding the brakes, No difference. I have also removed both front calipers and cleaned them inside and out. Both calipers are working. Any ideas? Just a thought, could I still have air in the system? ~ Don, Birmingham, AL, ‘86 LX


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25333 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Gentlemen here is a run down of my latest exploits a Cade mechanic:
The last day of Americade my battery went dead (less then 11.5 Volts, won't start the Cade). Several push Starts from Brian O. (thanks buddy). We got it to Wal-Mart, bought a charger and made it back to camp. Seemed that if I kept the Cade a 3000-rpm's or more, the meter would go to 12 volts, but less than that the volts drop to 11.0. The next morning with a full charge, we head home on slab, trying to keep rpm's up so as not to drain the battery, Praying for no traffic jams, make it near Buffalo an charge the battery at the motel. Next day same thing, but the Cade gets us home safe after a long day. I did the Charging system check with digital meter at the battery 12 volts at 5,000 rpm. Tore into him, (just doesn’t feel like a her), Sunday did the no- load stator check (as outlined in manual) got 45volts on two legs an 47on one. Should be 90volts on all. So I popped open the left engine case (again), and find an ugly disgusting thing about 40% burned. Now for the bad news. I call our friend in the South; they don't have a rebuilt in stock but would do mine $154.00. I called our friend in New England and they had just one on the shelf. I could have it for $250 with a core rebate of $50.00, with 6-month warranty. Now my Question for tech/engineering friends is it possible that the only application for this one stator was a few thousand Cades? I priced an OEM stator was $400+, (maybe not such a bad deal if it last 38000 miles). I'm gonna send mine back in for the rebate, but we need to circulate some old ones maybe start a stator bank for our group unless we can find some old ones somewhere. I know we would all like a spare stator on hand, but maybe it won't be possible.
Sorry to be so long winded but the same may happen to you and you can still bring her home. First thing, if you don't have a voltmeter with you, get one. Mine is a cheapie from radio shack tells you if your battery is bad or charging system is bad. It says good or bad, simple... even for me. Second the stator usually shorts out some where along its three legs decreasing the charge it can put out but most of the time it still puts out some voltage. Maybe enough to get you home. ~ Larry, ‘86 LXE, new driveshaft, new water pump, new Tracy cork, new stator, I still love this bike.


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25317 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.




Here is an inexpensive way to add more lights to the Cade. Remove the lower cowl farings and remove the reflector from them and the saddlebags. Go to NAPA and buy two red and two amber marker lights. P/N's are 50-1500-3 and 50-1500A-3. You will also need four plugs P/N 50-9122-3 to mate with the lights and some type of wiring connectors. I used the NAPA P/N 784344 terminals. Total cost was under twenty bucks. Locate lights in center of reflector cutouts and drill correct size holes to allow lights to set flush with surfaces. Place red lights on saddlebags with a little silicon to keep water out and connect plugs from inside. Secure amber lights to farings with plugs. Connect wiring to existing wiring in bags and upper farings for either the running lights or turn signals. I connected mine to the running lights. You will have to splice in additional wire to reach the wiring at the fairing lights. Just remove the upper fairing lights to get at the wiring; no need to remove the fairing. Save your reflectors and they can always be put back on using a large area washer under the nut. If you want to see pictures of the finished product I can send them. ~ "caderider86" <>

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24388 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.


Ok everybody, I'm the one that had to trailer my bike home because it just quit. The lights flickered and I got a backfire and it went to idle. After cutting the bike off, nothing happened on turning it back on----NOTHING---no lights no nothing. Battery good@12.5V. Circuit breaker at battery popped, reset, cranks, runs a few minutes, same problem. So I bought an Electrex regulator and wired it up like the old one. Cranked up 14.7V at battery for a few minutes then same thing all over again---HEARTBROKE-- and 134.00 later. SIGH. The only additional info is that the regulator gets HOT and the wires coming from the regulator are warm. The bike will run with stator wires disconnected but will not charge. Is my stator bad and how do I get to it? I also soldered the connections near battery (black and white). And the same thing happens with the little black box that's mounted on the right side of the headlight disconnected. -What is it anyway? HELP. ~ Rallie D. "Rooster" Cogburn

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24505 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I have been reading the emails about checking the ground wires that run from the Reg/Rect. I found that the connector near the battery had gotten hot and was melted a little. So I cut the two wires between the battery and the connector. Then I found the connector nearest the reg/rect and cut the two wires before the connector. I soldered in two sections of wire between the cuts and put heat shrink tubing over the joints. This was done at the time I had the bike down to replace the cork and rebuild the clutch slave cylinder. I also had to do some repair work on the fairing. When I put the bike back together and attempted to start the bike it would not start. When I turned the switch on the only lights that came on were the neutral and oil, nothing else. After removing all the complete faring, the headlight and the dash, I could not find and reason for the problem. I printed out the wiring diagram from the CD, Big THANKS to Tracy for the CD. I still could not figure it out. By this time I have spent about 6 to 8 hours on troubleshooting.
I should mention that the battery was the first thing I check and it was at 12.4volts. I had a ground wire that had voltage on it every time the key was switched on. Using the wiring diagram I traced it back to the negative side of the battery through the connector that I had by passed. Looking at wiring diagram I found that the two ground wires that run from the reg/rect joint together some were in the wiring harness from that point back to the battery it is only one wire. The connector that I cut out had two wires one is the ground for the reg/rect and the other one is the ground used for the dash and a lot of other stuff on the bike.
All that said to warn you. If you are replacing the connector near the battery (because of the ground wire has melted the connector or just to save you headaches down the road), be careful that you cut only the one wire free from the connector. This is the wire that runs to the reg/rect and replace it with two wires back to the recg/rect. ~ Don, Bham, AL.


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24568 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Took the bike for a test run in front of the house. All seems well with the brakes. I have the battery compartment open to get at things and while running the bike I checked the connection of the ground wires we have discussed, the ones coming of the negative side of the battery cable. When I felt them they felt warm, not quite hot. Interestingly warm. Should this be? I have removed the plug and used a blue press splicer type thing to connect the two wires back together. ~ Michael


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24607 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.




For all of you that ordered the Cade Cork, I will be caught up as of today (June 21st) with all orders. I apologize for the delay of some shipments. I also now have plenty in stock now so shipments will go out the same day they are ordered. On another note, you should all know that I am now including three washers with each plug. There is one standard Grade 2 washer and two hardened Grade 8 washers. This should end the folding washer issue. Not only are the Grade 8 washers hardened, they are also about 1 1/2 times thicker than the others are.

  The downside to this is that it increases the postage because it pushes it up into a higher weight bracket, however, I have made some changes in the manufacture and am able to save a few minutes on each one so the offset is about a wash. Also, I am now using a second finishing operation to insure that the critical "press fit" dimension is held to an extremely tight tolerance.

  After blanking the plug out on the lathe, I finish the press-fit diameter by threading the plug onto an arbor in the CNC mill and use the Z-axis to turn it to the final diameter. This not only improves the time (I was doing some hand finishing to that diameter on the lathe); it improves the accuracy and the surface finish. I am now able to hold a consistent +/-.0001" (1 ten-thousandth of an inch) tolerance on that diameter. An improvement over the lathe tolerance which was about +/-.0003". The surface finish is drastically improved and requires no hand polishing. That diameter is measured on each and every plug. If it ain't right, it goes in the scrap. So far, using the CNC finishing op, I have made no rejects. Thanks, ~ Tracy


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24264 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Does anybody make a decent seat cover for the cavalcade? My seat is just starting to separate. A dealer wants $600 bucks...... I don't think so. Thanks

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24512 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I read where you can use the 412's on a Cade with an adapter. What is the adapter and where can you get it? I have an 86GT with no compressor and would like to go to the no air shocks. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, ~ Kevin


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 24553 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



Hi guys, I haven't been around here in awhile. I have a question - My dad's 86 LXE Cade has a "Liberty" brand radar detector mounted on the bike. The unit appears to be made for bike use and looks almost factory. Well I don't think the unit has ever worked, but I would like to look into how it is supposed to work. Anyone have one of these or know anything about them? Also, we would really like to locate a factory CB antenna. Anyone have one of these for sale or know where we might locate one? ~ Dave, Racine, WI, ‘86 LXE (dark brown)


To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25612 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.



I just ordered a 6-connector plug from JC Whitney - I'll use this to rewire my trailer to have separate turn signals... I'll let you know how it turns out... ~ Brian, ‘87 LXE in CT

To read the string of messages responding to the above item, go to message # 25619 in the Cavalcade_USA archives.




Anybody have the coin holder for a LXE that they would like to sell? ? ~ "ichaboney" <>



Anyone have the chrome piece that goes on the front fender of 87LXE? ~ Rallie D. "Rooster" Cogburn <>



Denver, Colorado

I am selling my 1986 LXE. This is just too much bike for me. This is my first bike in 30+ years . . . I enjoy riding again . . . just need something smaller. I've had my Cade for almost 1 year, now has almost 20K miles on it, just came back from the shop where the "plug" and rear pads were replaced. Everything else is in perfect condition (although speedometer quit on ride home from shop). It is listed in the Denver paper for $4900 or best offer.
If you are anywhere near Denver this is a great bike. Pictures are available. e-mail me at

Graham, Texas

Folks, I was in a local shop buying oil and filter and came across a maroon '87 LXE for sale. It's got everything Suzuki put on it and then some:
Trailer hitch
Heel-toe shifter (but not floorboards)
Extra lights
Stainless Steel Panels enclosing the engine - nice work but they look a little odd to me.
It has about 50,000 miles and the seat and bodywork look good except the light colored panels (silver?) on trunk and bags shows some sun fading. I think he wants $3800. If you're interested it's at D&J's Polaris, Graham TX. 940-549-6182. ~ Mark

Westerville, Ohio

For sale: 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE $4,200; To tone brown; One owner, purchased new April 1987 from Fun-With-Wheels, Columbus, OH; Always garaged - located near Columbus, OH ~ 23,500 miles, Looks good, runs good, Extras (that I remember): Chrome trim rails front & rear fenders; Cavalcade mud flaps front & rear; Luggage rack on trunk; Heel-toe shifter; Suzuki/Clarion CB radio; Trailer hitch and plug for trailer lights
(Installed by dealer at time of purchase); Cavalcade bike cover; Cavalcade tank bag; Two Black with Gold T-shirts: Cavalcade logo-front; Bike picture-back; Sizes M and S; Radio reworked by Clarion (2.5 years ago); Good battery & tires; New voltage regulator/rectifier last year; (installed by Honda Northwest, Columbus, OH, Alternator was fine!) Radio, cassette, CB, intercom, cruise control, air cushions, air shocks; all in good working condition. ALL work has been done by shop mechanics. ~ I'll include a trailer. Lightweight aluminum deck; cargo contained in heavy, zippered vinyl compartment (internal frame of aluminum rods) that straps to deck. The trailer, without cargo bag, folds (wheels inside) and is light enough to be carried into your motel room. For more info contact me at



It is with a heavy heart that I am posting this. My friend, Bob Williams, from Pennsylvania, is selling his Cade because of health reasons. 1986 Cavalcade LX, dressed out as an LXE with all the bells and whistles. 34000 miles, well maintained, has all maintenance records and shop manual. It is well worth the asking price of $4500.00.

If anyone is interested, he can be reached at the following:  or 215-887-1686

God bless, Bob D. Indy/Gideon




Sunday, 9/15/02

Arrival and Check-in at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort

5:00 pm – 10:00 pm Exhibitor Set-up  (Exhibitors Only)


Monday, 9/16/02

8:00 am – 10:00 am      Exhibitor Set-Up

9:00 am – 5:00 pm       Registration Open

9:00 am – 1:00 pm       Self-Guided Tour of Branson

10:00 am – 5:00 pm     Exhibits Open

1:00 pm – 4:30 pm       Classes or Workshops

4:30 pm – 5:45 pm       Reception in the Cardinal Room

6:00 pm – 9:00 pm         Welcome Dinner and Imax Theater Show


Tuesday, 9/17/02

9:00 am – 5:00 pm  Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm  Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 12:00 am  Classes or Workshops

12:45 pm – 3:00 pm  Ride the Ducks to Lunch:

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm Group Rides


Evening (7:30 – 10:30 pm) “Country Tonite” Live Music & Comedy Show


Wednesday, 9/18/02

9:00 am – 12:00 noon  Registration Open

9:00 am – 5:00 pm  Exhibits Open

9:00 am – 12:30 pm  Classes or Workshops

2:00 pm – 5:00 pm  Group Rides

Evening 7:00pm – 10:00pm Awards Dinner ~ Prizes and Awards


Thursday, 9/19/02  (Optional Day)

Spend the day at Silver Dollar City Theme Park and enjoy an evening dinner cruise and a show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell Cruise


Friday, 9/20/02  (Optional Day)

Enjoy a second day free at the Silver Dollar City Theme Park. OR, ride to Lake of the Ozarks or another area that provides us a day’s ride through the Ozarks before heading home. Over-night stay at a local resort or motel.




NAME:  ______________________________________________________________________


PASSENGER _________________________________________________________________


ADDRESS:  __________________________________________________________________


CITY, STATE, ZIP:  ___________________________________________________________


TELEPHONE:  _________________________________   FAX:  ________________________


E-MAIL: _____________________________________________________________________



Shirts are included with pre-registrations received by August 1, 2002

All fees go to the expenses for Cade Raid 2002.


_____ CADE OWNER: $25.00   _____ PASSENGER: $15   _____ EXTRA SHIRTS @ $15.00

Sizes:    _____ Small     _____ Medium       _____ Large          _____ X-Large    _____XX-Large


PLEASE MARK OPTIONAL CHOICES BELOW. Registration Fees Do Not Include Lodging or the following Optional Events. Complete this Form by Marking the Following and Calculating Your Total Payment Below.


____ Monday Evening Dinner & IMAX Theater @ $20.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Tuesday Noon, “Ride The Ducks” Lunch @ $21.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Tuesday Evening Show “County Tonite” @ $22.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Wednesday Evening Awards Dinner @ $20.00 per Person: $ _______


____  Thursday & Friday Optional Days at Silver Dollar City Theme Park with Dinner Cruise and a Live Show aboard the Showboat Branson Bell @ $75.00 per Person: $ _______


PAYMENT:                                TOTAL OF ALL ABOVE FEES: ___________


___ Check # _________ (Payable to Tree Farm Communications, Inc.)


Return Completed Form to:                                Cade Raid 2002

PHONE: 425-868-0464                    23703 NE 4th Street

FAX: 425-868-2495                          Sammamish, WA 98074-3612  USA




Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

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