The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #3 ~ October, 2000

Jay D. Johnson, Editor

 

Emailed to you at No Charge.

Faxed or Snail Mailed to you at $25.00 for 12 issues

MISSING PERSON

Iím looking for an owner of an Ď86 or 87 LXE CADE. Who I saw many times [before, and after, and especially the day he was showing off his brand new Cade LXE. Back in Ď86or87 in the lower Manhattan area of NYC]. Last seen by me in 90 or 91 in the same area mentioned. Back then he was tall slender [but not skinny] w/blond hair name, [not sure] but "Glenn" keeps coming to mind. Also lived and worked in the White Plains area of NY. He was a m/c mechanic [Suzuki?] Q. IS THERE ANY WAY FOR ME TO FIND HIM BASED ON THE INFO GIVEN? CAN ANYONE BE OF HELP HERE? THANKS ~ buckchipshonda@hotmail.com

NEW GUY WITH A CADE

I've been riding every year since 1963...Owned one of seemingly everything, been from Hudsonís Bay to Guatemala, and now at 56 yrs I find myself with an Ď86LXE Blue-on-Blue. Iíve got LOTS of questions. I have a CD and this web page to browse, and still during the first week I came up with questions like.. How the (gosh) do I put this thing in a pick up if I break down, or if I had my O-Lady (whoops) Bride come get me with the M/C trailer? Where would I put the tie downs and could the both of us push it up the ramp. You know, the usual panicky things you think of just before you fall asleep. 37 Years worth of M/C experience and still 630lbs gives me the Willys (yep, had one 'a those too). GREAT Site, great people, Looking forward to lots 'a problem solving too. SOON, ~Bill the Fish Guy Davis, CA. P.S. My current transition is from a side hack and guess who hasn't leaned (the right way) into a corner for 4 years...ARGUHHHHH!!

MORE ON STARTING PROBLEMS

When I wanted to start my bike after work, first try give me a "click" sound, after that nothing. Turned on and off safety shut off switch a couple of times - nothing. Then I tried to give it a push, but I only had enough speed to turn the motor maybe half the cycle. After that I tried to start it again and..... VROOOOM. I am thinking, starter is going bad. What do you guys think? Ride On! ~Wojo

 

Don't forget the ignition switch. Mine doesn't always engage and I have to move the key just a little sometimes. ~Jerry

Pull the cover off of the steering column and check the ignition switch mount for tightness and the electrical plug in for the ignition switch. Happy trails. ~Al, California...÷j÷

 

One way to by pass all the safety switches, (just for testing) is to remove the right side turn signal. You will be able to see the solenoid.... Make sure you are in natural, and touch the two posts from solenoid with a screwdriver. The starter should turn over, even if key is not turned on. Turn the key on and it should start. If it starts; the problem is in your: 1. Clutch switch 2. Kick stand switch 3. Or maybe ground I went through all of these problems with little luck. They were not costly repairs. ~ Jim Kelly Ď86lx

My Cade seems to be a little harder to start on a cold morning. Should I give it full choke and no gas when starting or something different? Steve in Arkansas

Pushing the start button until the fuel pump stops and then pulling in the clutch with full choke works the best for me. The key seems to be no throttle and letting the fuel pump reach full pressure. ~ Keith Rice

Thanks, I will give it a shot in the morning. Also my Cade doesnít start unless the clutch is out and I am in neutral, any ideas?? Also my cruise control doesnít work, is that why? How do I go about fixing it????? Steve

My Cade seems to be a little harder to start on a cold morning. Should I give it full choke and no gas when starting or something different? I use 1/4 throttle, a quick 1/2 turn of the throttle, pull the clutch, and hit the start button, 2 cranks and she's up. ~Gerry in NY

 

Thank you everybody for comments about "starter" situation. Well, as it turns out it was clutch safety switch.......... I installed leather covers with leather laces on the clutch and brake levers. Well, the thickness of it was enough to make clutch safety switch not to engage fully. Does anyone out there know whether or not changing the grips could cause this same problem? ~Wojo

 

SWITCH FOR MARKER LIGHTS

Hi Group, I'm adding several lights to my Cade and am hooking them up to a separate switch. I was going to power the switch from the power supply on the fuse box, but realized that it is hot all the time. Where can I get power only when the key is on? ~Brian in IN

Brian, I put in a switch ran it to the power side & grounded it. Put a hole in the Cade just above the fuse cover wires go under to the power, also the switch I put in is lighted so I know when it is on or off looks ok. I put lights on after I start my Cade. Gary, Greenfield Wis.

Brian, There is nowhere I know of where you can get sufficient power only when the bike is on. There is however a set of leads that are designed to control a relay to turn marker lights on & off. This is the way the original Suzuki marker light kits goes in. Behind the water overflow tank (just under the right fairing) you should find an orange and a black/white wire. These are the wires that are used by the marker light kit from the factory to control a relay. If you want your extra lights etc to turn off with the key use these 2 wires (+ & -) to power a relay and then use the relay to switch a wire from the battery or the accessory screws of the fuse panel. When you shut off your bike anything else turned on will also shut off. I personally would recommend relaying direct off the battery as it keeps accessories out of the electrical system in case of problems. If you do go to the battery remember to fuse it as close to the battery as possible. Regards ~Rick

WANTED TO SAY THANKS TO ALL that replied to my plea for help on hooking up more lights. Worked on it for many hours today and tonight, got all the wires ran from front to back, switch installed, relay hooked up for driving lights installed where turning lights should be. (These are mini rectangle 55 watt h3 lights that fit in the spot with some room to spare) and wired to come on when brights are on (with a relay!!!). Boy was it a bear to splice into high beam wire too!!! Installed amber lights where amber reflectors were on lower fairing (JC Whitney part # 01RN3526) and they are a perfect fit and look GOOOOOD too. Had to drill 1" hole to install them. Installed 6" strip light to inside of radio lid so I can see the radio at night instead of just the 4 words that lit up orange. A must for everyone I think. I got 6ft strip lights to install around back chrome bumper and amber strip lights to install on front forks yet, and then I'll be done.. I noticed that I have a fuse for a CB, but donít have a CB. Can I hook these lights to that so they are switched with the key??? Driving lights donít need to be, seeing how I got them hooked up with relay to brights. Donít think I should exceed 3 amps. All comments welcome. Thanks guys and gals, (donít want to offend Nancy, LOL) Brian in IN

If you use the wires I mentioned before (in the right fairing) they are only active in the ignition position and not the accessory position as the CB would be. ~Rick

I used a headlight relay from Radio Shack to isolate my spare light circuits. It can be tied to a wire that controlled by the ignition switch or just an on/off switch. Power for the lights comes directly from the battery...through the relay.... TO A SEPERATE FUSE BLOCK...through switches for each circuit of lights. No more secret. Power from the battery.... Relay so it's not hot all the time...separate fuse block and switches for each circuit. I also added an automotive voltage tester from Radio Shack wired in with quick disconnect to tell me the battery condition and charging status. ~KennG

Hello members, Tonight I finally finished the job of hooking up all the added lights and accessories that I added to the Cade. I asked for help from members and got many replies, but decided to go about it like I originally planned and I think it worked out great. Hereís what I added along with how I hooked each item up to 12 volt. Mini 55w H3 clear driving lights: mounted them in the space where the cornering lights are meant to be. (I had to add a piece of metal to get them facing forward); wired with a relay to come on with the brights only and hooked to the power source spot on the fuse panel. I checked amp draw and they draw 8.5 amps, so the 10 amp fuse is sized right. Running lights where the reflector is on the side of the fairing and 2-6ft. Strip lights wrapping around the back bumper and a light mounted to the inside of the radio cover so I can see all the radio now at night (not just the 5 light up words like before). I went to considerable efforts to run a wire from front to back just for these added lights. I hooked it to a lighted switch that I mounted in the right side below the fairing pocket, found a fuse for the CB (which wasn't being used) and tapped into the wire coming out of the bottom of it for power that is switched by the key. Amp draw was 2.5 amps for the decorative lights, so the 3-amp fuse is perfect. Cigarette lighter: was already installed with a inline 15 amp fuse. The amp draw was only 6.5 amps. So I replaced it with a 7.5 amp fuse and hooked it directly to the battery post. CB Radio (little all in the handset deal): was already installed, amp draw while transmitting was 1 amp, inline fuse directly to the battery also Took it for a test drive with a volt meter hooked up temp. Showed 13 to 14 volts with all on except driving lights, 12.5 - 12.7 with all and driving lights on. So I think I'm all set now till I find some lights for the front fork area. Thanks for all your help, ~Brian in IN

The future of bike lighting I believe is in LEDs

Yes, you are right in my opinion. But, did you check the PRICES of those LED's? Much more $$$ than the good old (bulbs). ~Brian

Maybe you should check out eBay Super bright Red Led strip 35 LEDs 15 in long at http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=475946874 ~Dan

VOLTAGE METER

I got one of these little testers and hooked it up to the auto level fuse so it shuts off with key and isnít messed up with current draw from lights or such while Iím riding. I'm only getting 4 LEDs while riding though, is this what the rest of you have? It seems to go up to 5 LEDís when between 1500-2000 rpm, but only to 4 while cruisin' at 50-60 mph. Then when I turn on all my lights, (hi-beam, 55 watt driving lights and decorative lights) it goes down to 3 LEDís and sometimes the 4th one will light up if at the right rpm. All you that have voltage meters, please give me feed back. Thanks, ~Brian in IN

To inform you the electrical system on the Cade like most Suzuki's don't work too well. Running the bike at normal highway speeds, the electrical system will read 13.9 volts max. The only time it will go to 14.5 is just off of idle or if your electrical system is new. I have had mine go down to as low as 8.5v sitting at a light with the fan running and break lights depressed. Once you rev the bike above idle, the voltage will jump up to 13.2 depending on how long the light was. I guess when they designed the system they didn't take in account that we would have to stop it from time to time. Those of you who do stop-and-start driving with the Cade, do not run extra lights. The system was not designed for the load at idle speeds over a period. ~Mike c.

Hi Mike, I have an Ď86 LXE with 74K on her. In the past I have batted the low charge condition like you have described. Mine was not quite as week as you describe yours to be at idle. The bottom line is, I fixed mine by correcting the grounds. There is a pair of black wires with a white tracer that is crimped to the negative cable at the battery. Pull yours up and you will find a gang plug that connects them to the wiring harness. The plug may very well be melted. One of the wires is the ground to the rectifier and the other grounds the whole wiring harness. Be absolutely positive this connection is perfect. If not, cut out the connector and solider a loop connector on the end of the two wires from the wiring harness. Hook them directly to the battery negative terminal hold down bolt. Be sure all other connectors are in good condition through out the wiring harness and you should have over 14 volts at 5k rpm. Hope this helps, Good luck, David

To clarify something, there are two wires coming off the regulator. One goes to the battery the other to the rest of the bike. My meter is on the one to the rest of the bike since most of the voltage does go to the battery. And yes the battery does not go below 12.5v. Regards ~mike c. Ď86lx

SPEAKING OF MARKER LIGHTS!!!

Gary Thanks for the tip on the additional light on the back ... I was adding a few lights to my Ď86 LXE (Well, okay I added 24 multi colored amber, blue, & red bullet lights to my bottom bumper) and 3 blue eagles on the back, and a ring of blue fire on the chrome on the front disk cover.... And I remembered your post ... needed to look it up on how you did it ... I used a sharp utility knife and viola in just a few minutes I had another light FOR FREE.... Guys you have to do this little trick it is easy ... NO DRILLING is needed ... Just take off the license plate assembly ... take off the chrome reflector ... use a new sharp utility knife cut out the opening in the back.... It took 30 minutes from start to finish. Thank Gary ... I still have a few more lights to add ... I am a man with a mission ... AMERICADE 2001 PARADE OF LIGHTS!!! I'll be the Cavalcade Christmas tree!!!! Happy riding everyone!! - Paul

I installed 6" strip light to inside of radio lid so I can see the radio at night instead of just the 4 words that lit up orange. A must for everyone I think. ~ Brian

Brian you got source for that light, and maybe even a pix of that radio lid light instillation?

JC Whitney, part # 55RN3880W...$3.19...hardest part is wiring it........... Used double-faced molding tape to install it. Wont have any pictures till they are taking' in to be developed. Will post when I get, but wont be for awhile (new roll in camera). ~Brian in IN

BATTERY FLUID EATS!

Take this as a lesson, although maybe no one else is as stupid as I am. Because the battery is so hard to check for fluid, I decided before I went to Americade to put water in. I figured that too much canít be as important as too little. Wrong!! We all know it rained like cats and dogs that week. I thought I got some road dirt on the lower part of the bike. Same thing just happened again. I was planning a leaf peeping ride through NH and ME so I added some distilled water. On the ride another rider with me was looking at the mess and gave me some horrible news: It was overflow from the battery! Yes, ACID that was on my chrome. I had no idea even when all the polishes and cleaners didn't touch it. One piece can probably be re-chromed but the rest I washed with baking powder solution to neutralize it. Now, I have to live with it. Donít let this happen to you. ~Larry from Kingston, Ma

Here is another reason to get the Yuasa maintenance free battery! It is totally sealed and does not require a vent tube. I know this had to be devastating to you. Ride safe, ~David, Ark.

I am glad you guys are trying my little trick with the rear reflector. Pretty cool huh? It really does look nice. FYI.... My battery had pooped out on me. I purchased another from Big Bikes here in Jax. $66.00 for a Yuasa with the probe. I was just assuming with my old battery being two years old and me running all of the lights I do along with the escort rides and what not...I assumed the battery had just used up it's life. Well.... I removed the old battery last nigh. It was corroded, not bad, but it had started to corrode on the + post. I pulled out the battery and found battery acid in the tray, battery and the side panel of the inside of the fairing. The battery seal had broken on the + end of the battery and was leaking. I washed everything out and placed the new battery in. Everything is fine now. So, check your battery. Mine was leaking where the black top seals to the white bottom portion. It was not bad but bad enough to start corroding the post and leak into the compartment. Check it now. It could save some heartache later. ~Gary Fairfield Jax, FL 'Ď86 TT Blue LXE

A short time ago I wrote of battery acid from the overflow staining the chrome on the lower part of the bike.. A friend of mine used a buffing compound and an electric drill to remove most of it. All I need now is a small Dremel tool and use it to get some hard to reach spots. It looks great again, but I was warned not to rub all the chrome finish off.. ~Larry from Kingston Ma

I recently returned from a trip down the BW Parkway. On the return trip home, I smelled the faint odor of hot plastic. After my no start coffee stop, I decided I'd better look into this. I removed all the front fairing. I Just Knew this electronic monster had done a number on me, as I had no turn signals, no fuel level, no heat gauge no LCD read outs, and the lights didn't look up to par. I took a voltage reading across the battery terminals and only had 11.47 volts. In checking for the hot plastic odor, I found the double black/white wire by the battery overflow had turned black and appeared burned. In my trouble shooting I found the lights and all fore mentioned, happened to be an over-looked fuse. This replaced, I started the bike again and still had 11.47 volts, and the black/ white splice became hotter and hotter. I cut this splice out and replaced it with two male /female spades. Upon the next start the splice remained cold and the voltage went to 13.50 14.58. I remembered on a earlier trip battery had overflowed allowing acid to get into this factory splice. It was evidently corroding the area right in the crimp, causing a high resistance to build up. If you have had a past battery overflow that might have caused battery acid to enter this splice, you might want to check it out. Yes I did check the stator and reg/rec and they checked out with the factory manual. Sorry for the long e mail but wanted to get this info to ya, as Iíve read of other battery overflows, and this resistance in the splice definitely caused, the plastic odor, and could have possibly lead to reg/rec ~Walter in Maryland

GLUE REMOVAL

I had put some red reflector tape on the back of the passenger headrest. I want to remove it but can not find anything to remove the glue from the leather. Ideas? ~Pappy

Unless you have had your seat done in real leather, they are made of vinyl. Steve

Hay Pappy go to OSH or any large hardware store and get a product called Goo that's what they call it here, It's specially designed to remove glue residue. Happy Trails. Al California...÷j÷

Pappy, I have some stuff called De-Solv-it. It works great for adhesive, marker, gum, etc. and is safe for all surfaces, even fabrics.... Itís not a paint thinner type cleaner like most adhesive removers. It does say "not recommended for leather" though now that I read it... Great stuff though. Brian in IN

I've had good luck with WD-40, too...for such a project. ~Fred

Try mineral oil or Avon skin so soft bath oil it is the same thing.

Pappy, Try goo be gone.... Or goo off... It works wonders on any kind of sticky stuff.... I use it on laundry for grease and tape glue and etc.... Have a great day ---Nancy :<)

Your local hardware store sells naphtha; I use it at my upholstery shop for goo and glue everyday. It even takes out gum in cloth seats! ~Steve

I have used WD40 to remove glue but don't know how it would affect the leather (vinyl?) ~Rick

Pappy, We have found the best product for removing dried glue to be Ronson's Cigarette Lighter fluid. We use it all the time to clean the labels off of old cassettes. It will not harm plastic. I have not tried it on leather, so you should test it first on a piece of scrap leather to see if it leaves a stain. If not, just wet the tape or glue spot with the lighter fluid and let it set for about 60-seconds. Then just remove the tape, or wipe off the wet glue. If it doesn't all come off, just repeat the process. Ride Safe, ~Jay

DO NOT use paint remover or thinner on vinyl. If you do the vinyl gods will be angered, you donít want them mad at you, trust me. I do upholstery for a living. ~Steve

REFILLING CLUTCH AND BRAKE LINES

I found a new way of refilling clutch and brake lines. I didnít even have to buy anything except about 4 dollars worth of clear plastic hose, 3/16 inner diameter, like the stuff you get at the hardware store. 1. Take the caliper reservoir off the bar, raise it up and clamp it onto a broom handle so that the lever is pointed up, so that no air bubbles can get trapped in the master cylinder. 2. Siphon some brake fluid into the clear plastic hose, about 20 feet of it. Hold both ends of the line up so that the air bubbles escape to the surface in the plastic hose. 3. Attach one end of the plastic hose to the clutch (or brake) bleeder valve. Raise the other end of the hose, which will gently flow fluid into the system. Watch for brake fluid to seep into the two holes in the fluid reservoir. Be careful not to spill any fluid. If you do, it will cost you about 100 dollars. (Adult language.) 4. When fluid show up at the reservoir, there is little or no air in the line. Close the bleeder, take off the line with fluid in it, clamp the reservoir back onto the bar, refill the reservoir, then bleed the system like you normally would. Cost: 4 bucks worth of plastic hose. Actually, as I read my own description, it isnít very clear at all. I need to draw up a cartoon, or better yet, write some Dr. Suess poetry about it. ~Spike

BRAKE PADS

Hey group, Just took a look at my front brakes and behold I need new pads again. I figure I have about 15,000 miles on them. That's not enough for my liking. I believe they were EBC Kevlar for touring (Green package). Is there anything better out there? Man, I'm just figuring here, and I've got over 15 K on the bike for this year, and I still have riding to do! BTW, I've just figured I've got 27 K on my front tire and 24K on the rear, both Dunlop Elite II. And I have the rest of the year on them easily, with good tread. I definitely like this Elates. Thanks ~Denny Potoczky Ď86 LXE South Bend, IN

Get the pads from J.C. Whitney; theyíre only $13 us dollars per set

Denny: That's about all I get out of brake pads any way, maybe we're just on the brakes too much. I rode from Baltimore MD to Asheville, NC had new pads when I left and had to change them out before summers end, Make sure you check the rear one to. ~WALTER IN MARYLAND

ENGINE OIL DISCUSSION

Previous owner of my CADE used Golden Spectra 4 Synthetic Oil 10w 40. Having trouble finding it. Anyone know where you can get it or what is a good substitute? Got 83000 miles on it and I hate to change to a regular oil. ~Bob

I've used Mobil 15w50. I add 8 oz of Marvel Mystery oil to 3 + quarts. The bike runs great !! ~Gerry in NY

I have been using Pennzoil 10/40-motorcycle oil which cost about 2.75 quart. I stopped using car oil a few years ago when the sg rated oil was discontinued. I read a lot about oil and feel that the newer car oils may cause problems with our clutch plates down the road. ~Bob

I know that since I switched to synthetic I have been having a devil of a time shifting as smoothly as I did b4 the switch. ~Dan

I was using Mobil1 until the local dealer said that it was a car oil and not meant for wet clutches. I switched to a semi-synthetic that another dealer recommended but now it idles slower on cool mornings, and shifting doesn't seem as smooth as it used to be. Whazzup with that??? ~HeyJerr

My last oil change was 700 miles and a week ago. I had Mobil 1 in it. I changed to Golden Spectra 20w50. Yes, I agree it idles slower on cold mornings. Dunno, Spectra is harder to get, Mobil 1 is easier and 15w50 with Marvels Mystery Oil quiets the behemoth nicely. Hard call. This is the first winter I will have Spectra in it. I'll keep y'all posted.

The other reason I changed the oil was that I had topped off with a significant amount of Marvel Mystery Oil and the dealer said it is NOT meant for motorcycles, especially wet clutches. I ended up letting the bike sit for three weeks because I couldn't find the time to change it out.

Hey Guys & Girls, there are the first two articles of a series in the last two issues of Motorcycle Consumer News. The articles will give a lot of insight on the differences of motor oil and motorcycle oil available today. These two articles are very informative if you are interested.

I was using Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w50, not regular car oil. The 20w50 is thicker and does require more time to warm up on colder temps, but, when it does, the Cade runs nice. I don't really notice a tremendous difference in Spectra top Mobil 1 except Spectra, when warm, runs hotter then Mobil. Maybe it's because it's a blend and not a synthetic.

My understanding is that Mobil1 is still a car oil. I know it's synthetic, but it's still not rated as a motorcycle oil, or at least not for wet clutches. This is what a local shop tells me, so correct me if I'm wrong. By the way, I was using Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w50, not regular car oil. The 20w50 is thicker and does require more time to warm up on colder temps, but, when it does, the Cade runs nice. I don't really notice a tremendous difference in Spectra top Mobil 1 except Spectra, when warm, runs hotter then Mobil. Maybe it's because it's a blend and not a synthetic.

MOBIL ONE MAKES A SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL ALSO...& IT DOES WONDERS FOR ENGINES...cold starts, heat dissipation, lubrication(doesnít shear off of metal), smmmoooooth shifting tranny's, etc,.etc,.etc. IT'S AVAILABLE THRU MOTORCYCLE SHOPS, & SOME AUTO PARTS STORES...ONE FORMULA FOR "TWINS" & ONE FORMULA FOR FOUR(SIX) CYLINDERS LIQUID COOLED..............knowledge IS in the asking............

AFTER MARKET OIL FILTERS

Does anyone have a list of after market oil filters for the Cavalcade? ~Larry

Larry, I use a FRAM PH6016. It costs about six bucks (when I can find 'em) at the M/C shop. I think J C Whitney has them for about 3 bucks. ~Dan

I have been using FRAM # 6016 I think for the past four years, cost about $7.00 ~Bob

Just a quick note on oil filters, The Cavalcade uses 2 different oil filters, The PH6016 fits the early models (19í86) and the PH6018 fits the 1987 and newer. ~Mrcade

I use a WIX #51348 for my Ď86 LX. It won't fit 87 LXE, cost about 5.00 ~Jim Kelly Ď86lx

The folks at Advance Auto can get them. If they're not in stock, ask. They can have them in a couple days. So I've been told here in Geneva. #6018 for the 87ís cost $5.99. I guess if you have the number, anyone who carries Fram filters can get them for you. Don't hurt to ask. ~KennG

I've used Fram PH6010 and NAPA 1324. ~Gerry in NY

After running conversion charts for 19í86, I found we can use the AC Delco 1234. I've been using it for over a year now and have had no sealing/leaking problems with it at all. ~HeyJerr Ď86 LXE San Jose, Calif.

Recently on a trip to ADAP a chain of auto supply stores I found they had on the shelf a STP oil filter marked as for the Cavalcade 1400. Part number is SMO-18. ~Al from Mass

JC Whitney sells oil filters for about 4 bucks if you buy 10 it works out cheap. If several of you get together and placed an order it would be a saving for you. Most filters Iíve used were EMGO and Iíve had no problems. I now get them for my Wing. The chrome filters are $4.99 ~BobL

Hi guys, I am getting close to starting some winter projects on the big bike and I need a right muffler for an Ď86 LX any one with one for sale can email me at cpp83@hotmail.com. As for oil filters I have been using the Fram filter. This winter I plan on doing something with the air filter also and will let you know how it turns out. ~Carter Piovesan Ď86LX

I think it was al from mass saying his dealer was charging 7.99 for an oil filter. How about $13.50 at Bettencourts Honda in West Bridgewater... Thank God for this group. I just got six from JC Whitney for $4.00 each thanks guys. ~Larry from Kingston Ma

I tried the Emgo brand on my Cavalcade and I kept blowing the rubber seal out from around the oil filter. Just my 2 cents worth. ~Mrcade

Just catching up on messages after the Thanksgiving Weekend here in Canada. For other Canadians I have purchased oil filters at Canadian Tire for $9.99 Cdn (about $6.00US). They are Fram Filters. ~Rick

SOUND SYSTEM STUFF

Anyone know where I can get replacements for the grommets that the prongs fit onto to secure the speaker covers to the fairing? If it isn't on the microfiche my dealer can't get it or doesn't have it. Thanks, ~Dan

Dan, I guess if your parts guy had a brain, he would have a better job. It is on the microfiche. Part number for the grommets is 09320-08007 (takes 8, but you already knew that). ~Tracy

Dan, The dealer I get parts from is Brenny's in Bettendorf, IA... Phone 319/359-7222... Ask for Roger in Parts...He got that same part for me just this summer. Otherwise, I'd try Arkport Cycle in Arkport, NY...Phone 607/295-7426...I've done business with them...they go out of their way to help you and are happy to ship it to you. Fred L. Meisenheimer, Princeton, Illinois

Dan, I just went to dealer the other day, took a grommet with me ... they matched it up to others and there I had them. Yamaha 's were about $1.00 each. Suzukiís were $2.50 EACH I BOUGHT THE YAMAHA 'S THEY WORK FINE Jim Kelly Ď86lx

Hi Dan, I was able to find the receipt, the no. is 90480-13398-00 ya pya grommet... they are $.74 each

~Jim Kelly Ď86lx

I canít seem to get any kind of helmet system that will work with my Cade. Do any of you have a system that works with the Cades or have ANY suggestions on where I can get one. I have a JM Corp. that I am pretty sure works but I just bought new cords and I cant get them to work. I plug them in and I still hear everything through the bike's speakers. Itís very frustrating! Any help would be appreciated very VERY much. ~Steve 87 LXE

Keith, Several of us are using J&M sets. There is a button on the radio for speaker or headset (HS); it's on the lower left side. Have you tried this? When it's on headset a small HS will appear in the bottom of the station window. In this mode your intercoms should work to, if the intercom knob is turned on and up. ~Dennis Vanill

I canít seem to get any kind of helmet system that will work with my Cade. Do any of you have a system that works with the Cades or have ANY suggestions on where I can get one. I have a JM Corp that I am pretty sure works but I just bought new cords and I cant get them to work. I plug them in and I still hear everything through the bike's speakers. Itís very frustrating! Any help would be appreciated very much. ~Steve

Check your radio real close, you may need new switches. If any of them are bad the thing don't work. Check the archives on E-groups and maintenance on www.suzukicavalcade.com and let us know what it's doing. Check the ownerís manual on operations. Larry (GRUBEFODDER) taught me a good trick, put a cassette tape in, then reject it but leave it in the player. Your intercom adjusts easier and is on without radio interference. My J&M system from Sierra Electronics works just fine. Keep stroking. Good Luck, and Keep us informed. ~KennG

Now, who ever it is having a problem getting their headset to work, there's button on the radio that toggles between the speaker and headset. I think itís on the lower left-hand side. Believe it has HS/SP printed on the legend.

I tried the HS switch and that was it! Man, what a relief! Thanks sooo much! You guys are great! ~Steve

In your instructions to hook up the Cobra 75 external speaker to the CB plug you say to connect ground to pin 1 and hot to pin 3 - Which pin is 1 and which is 3? Thanks ~Denny Potoczky

If you have an external CB & want to put the audio output of the CB through the radio into the bike speakers or headsets it can be done very simply. If you want to take the audio from the CB & use the helmet mike it can also be done but it is somewhat more complicated and involves using a DPDT switch and a bit of wiring. To route the audio output of your Cobra 75 through the speakers/helmets you will need to pick up an 8 pin male din connector at a local electronics shop. Make up a cable to run from the external speaker jack of the CB to the 8-pin din. Connect the ground from the external speaker jack (this is the shaft) of the CB to pin 1 on the 8 pin din and the hot of the external speaker jack (this is the tip) to pin 3 of the 8 pin din. Then just plug it into the external jack of the CB & the CB din connector on the Clarion radio and anything that breaks squelch on the CB will come through both speakers and/or helmets. The audio is routed directly through the radio and the CB will control volume. I just took this route with a Maxon one hander, as I did not find a place I could mount a small CB without loosing something on the bike. Another tip is that behind the water overflow tank (just under the right fairing) you should find an orange and a black/white wire. These are the wires that are used by the marker light kit from the factory to control a relay. If you want your radio, extra lights etc to turn off with the key use these 2 wires (+ & -) to power a relay and then use the relay to switch a wire from the battery or the accessory screws of the fuse panel. When you shut off your bike anything else turned on will also shut off. I personally would recommend relaying direct off the battery as it keeps accessories out of the electrical system in case of problems. If you do go to the battery remember to fuse it a close to the battery as possible. Regards ~Rick

Larry and group, I just got a Cobra 75 CB and got my antenna hooked up. I would like to run the external speaker hookup on the CB to the bike's CB connection. The diagram shows a mic +, mic ground, left speaker, right speaker, and speaker ground- do I connect to one speaker or splice into both? I would like to be able to hear the CB in the helmet speakers ~Denny

Hello All, I've several questions for those of the group who have installed their own (non-Suzuki) CB's on their ''Cades. Some of the questions may have already been answered, but while I'm current with my reading, I'm still behind 129 Digests for the 5/30/00 to 8/15/00 period. So if my question has already been answered, please forgive me and point me to the answer. I've several options for installation of the CB. I already have one that's proven to work well and carry for quite a distance, but no weather channels. I can get a Midway 75155 (w/weather) for $60. Finally, I've just come into two Gold Wing 1200 fairing-mounted (sealed) CB's w/o weather, with one set of wiring, the junction box and the locking cover. The catch is they don't work and I'll have to send them to Sierra for diagnosis, not to mention adapting them to the Cavalcade. I'm torn between the two later options. Any suggestions? Regarding the antennas, I've got sticker-shock. The Suzuki antenna is s till available (I think it folds like the radio antenna), but it's over $80.00. The Honda equivalent is priced at $105 locally. If after market units are/have been used, were they regular or "non-ground-plane" units? Any suggestions as to type (whip vs. fiberglass)? Some of the latter require 18' of cable; have they been used by anyone? Where was the cable hidden/stashed? I've also seen that either the original AM/FM antenna was used with a splitter, and that a CN antenna was used, also with a splitter; were there any problems with this arrangement? Where/how were the antennas mounted? Stock placement is on the right side on a bracket that also supports the radio antenna on the left side; bracket is no longer available. A mounting-bracket at J.C. Whitney that looks adaptable, and several "mirror-mount' brackets that look promising for attaching to luggage-racks or crash guards, or whatever. I've seen folding adapters on the 'net that would allow the antenna to fold, like stock, but want to hear what others have done. I've some 32 messages saved that have dealt with CB/Radio installation so far, and Iím reviewing them all. Nonetheless, any information that could be provided would be greatly appreciated, and it just might save this tired old man some time that I could use for riding instead of worrying about the installation job. Thanks in advance, ~Andy Midland, TX

The passenger volume control went on the big Cade. I replaced it with a $40.00 control knob from J&M and found that the radio works fine but my passenger cant hear the intercom yet I can hear her. after exchanging helmets with a fiend and the leads to the helmet and the new vol. control knob, I think its either the junction wires to the radio or the radio itself, any guesses out there? ~Larry from Kingston Ma

My passenger rear volume control went bad...blaring loud. I was told they were out of stock and a couple of members said they paid $80. for a complete assembly. I bought a J&M vol. control for $40.00. It worked for the radio volume but my passenger couldn't hear me through the intercom. J&M said it didn't have anything to do with the volume control. It did. A friend replaced the orig. switch with a $2.00 volume control and voila! everything was loud and clear. Of course we broke it before it was soldered. The next day we purchased another 10k-ohm volume switch for $2.00 and drilled a small hole through the side of the pass control panel for the installation. only three wires to solder on. So for 6 riding seasons, the bike cost $3.00 for a clutch switch and the $2.00 for a vol. control. Knock on wood. the rest was only routine maintenance.. ~ Larry

CB RADIO

Thanks to everyone for helping me get the CB going. It works great. But I am pretty ignorant about using it. What is usual protocol? Is there a channel that the Gold Wingers use? It was a hoot to listen to the truckers - passed the time laughing to them. The weather channels are great.

I ride with a GWRRA chapter here in Jax, FL. We are always on channel 1 unless we are going to bike week or Biketoberfest. It is too crowded on channel 1 when in a situation like that. We use an alternate of channel 27 so traffic is minimal. As far as protocol...just try and be considerate and keep your transmissions short. It has been my experience that sometimes when in traffic it is best to stay off the radio except for the leader and tail gunner so they can navigate the group through traffic better. Talk your but off at stoplights. Just my $.02 worth. Hope this helps. ~Gary Fairfield Jacksonville, FL

TIRE DISCUSSION

Ok, Itís tire time for me. I bought my Cade in March and my back tire is looking too thin for my comfort. Any suggestions on what kind of tires I should put on it? ~Tim Ď86 LX Brown

I run Dunlop elite II 491 front and rear. Has anybody heard of the splitting problems that they have with the rear tires in the past? I had one split right in the middle of the tread with about 4000 miles on it. A buddy of mine had one split with less than 2000 miles on it on his wing. The factory made them good don't know of any going all the way to failure but it's a scary sight when doing a pre ride inspection to see a split in the middle of your tire. Haven't had any problems with the set I am running right now. I still use them cause they handle the load good and I get good mileage with them. Might be more info on the wing page about this. ~John in La. Ď86 LXE

I've just figured I've got 27 K on my front tire and 24K on the rear, both Dunlop Elite II. And I have the rest of the year on them easily, with good tread. I definitely like these Elete. Thanks ~Denny Potoczky

Whatís the secret to getting all that mileage on those tires, I'm doing good to get 12-15000 on a set of 491 Dunlop. Of course I ride hard and with max. weight most of time. How ever I am a stickler when it comes to tire pressure 35 front 42 rear. ~John in La. Ď86 LXE

The Dunlop Elete series 2 I just had them put on my bike last week. They improved the handling, it felt like I was riding a lighter bike I would get both front and back at the same time if possible supposed to make a difference or so Iím told but then again what does a old hick know ~Glen McKibben

Y'all... When I called around in July to find tires for my Cade, I asked about various brands and the person I spoke with said that Michelin, Bridgestone/Firestone (well, Duh!), and Metzler were ALL recalling their M/C tires. Maybe the shop has a higher profit margin on the Dunlops (So I don't know how true that was). I didn't visit in person, so I didn't see a recall notice etc. Anyway I got the Dunlop elite II 491, too. I have seen you guys in the pictures that you submit to the site using Dunlop QUALIFIERS!? What's up with that...I've never gotten more than 8k outta those tires, on other bikes. Just my observation... ~Dan in Dallas/Fort Worth

David, I run 42 on the back and 36 on front ~Denny Potoczky Ď86 LXE South Bend, IN

I put some of the new Dunlop Cruise-Max's on because I was in a pinch, needed tires NOW and that was all my dealer had that would fit the bike. They seem great. Much more stable than the Metzlers and the Elite IIs I'd worn off before. As a second perk... they are very very quiet! ~Don

Hey Dave, he's not the only one to get 24K from a rear tire, this week I will replace the rear tire on my bike with 24K on that tire. 99% of my riding is 1up and use 42lbs air pressure and use both sides of the tread pattern when ever possible. Happy Trails. Al California...÷j÷

Tire manufacturer recommendations: Dunlop - 491 Elite II MT90B16 front and MV85B15 rear inflated to 36 & 40 psi respectively Metzler -ML2 130/90-16 (73H) at 42 psi and 150/90B15 (80H) re-inf TL rear at 47psi Michelin Hi Tour 79 130/90 -16 (67H) and 150/90 (15 74H) no psi stated. ~Roy - MD

Hmmmm........, Wonder if I'm missing something, I run 36 & 40. I thought the side wall was printed with max. Inflation 40# for the rear. ???? Maybe I should try 42#. Thanks for the reply Denny, David Ď86 LXE

Tim, I just put a set of Dunlopís Elite II on my LXE and like them a lot. Gerald Ď86LXE

And now for the person with the wobble... I've noticed my Cav gets very unstable over uneven ground and in any turns when the rear tire gets worn, and is really jumpy when the front tire wears also. I was pretty scared to ride it when I was between jobs and couldn't get new rubber. Since finally getting the rubber replaced the bike rides just like it should and that's without a Superbrace. As a note, I've put about 3k on the new Dunlop Cruise-Max tires and am very impressed with them. Not only are they the first brand of QUIET tires I've had but they are the most stable. Will roll into a turn a little quicker than I was used to at first, but geeze! It feels like the bike is on rails. ~Don

On the rear tire I've got 27,000 on my 491 Elite II and I can't believe it still looks good. Original tire lasted about 17,000 and I couldn't wait to change it. Handling improved with the Dunlop 491 and improved even more when I put them on the front also. ~Al from Mass

HANDLING IN TIGHT CORNERS

Here is the 19í86 XL Cavalcade I bought this last month. I like the Cade quite a bit. But I was wondering if the bike naturally acts up on cornering, I seem to feel a little front end wobble or unsteadiness sometimes, I might need fork oil or spindle tightened.

Great list I Hope I will see some of the Cade rider's out here in Ohio sometime ~Brett

http://bdec.homestead.com/cavalcade.html

Brett, Nope! I have pushed some pretty aggressive corners with no problems (wife was at home of course). Tires could be a suspect as well. ~Norm Spokane, WA

Brett, You don't say if at low or high speed. No offense but at low speed unsteadiness may be you. You are riding a big, front-end heavy machine that has a tendency to want to dive on slow tight turns. At higher speeds may be the tires, scalping on the edges will give a great deal of wobble. Some have experiences a wobble or unsteadiness at higher speeds and attributed it to the lack of the super brace, mine has always had one since I've owned it but at speeds above 70 on curves I do experience some unsteadiness (maybe me,lol). I have had that problem with a bad tire, uneven wear. ~Dennis Vanill

I felt a similar problem until I learned how to corner with this beast. KenzCade just loves to ease up and into a corner then kick it just a little to power through the turn. Once I learned that, the twisties were a bunch more fun. I was letting off in the turns and the beast wanted to stand up and jiggle. Lean it down and power through. Just be careful you 'll find yourself coming out of the turns 5 to 10 mph faster in no time. Later ~KennG

Brett, You might look into adding a Super Brace. Also, some owners prefer to reverse the handlebar mount, which moves the handlebar back about 2 inches. Ride Safe, ~Jay ~ "Blue-on-Blue" 'Ď86 LXE

If Iím taking a corner right after a bump, the rear shocks can make it bounce around a lot (if not inflated) and make it SEEM like a front end wobble. ~HeyJerr

Brett, You might look into adding a Super Brace. Also, some owners prefer to reverse the handlebar mount, which moves the handlebar back about 3 inches. Ride Safe, ~Jay

Steve, The bottom halves of the mounts are offset with the stems, so when you turn them 180 degrees it makes a difference. I changed mine about a year ago, better handling (for me anyway.) If you don't like easy to change back. ~Dennis Vanill

How do I go about switching the handle bar mount as you mentioned? ~Steve

Steve, On the plastic piece on your handlebars, pop out the small grill looking piece, remove the two Phillips head screws and small metal bar. Next, rotate the ring around your ignition switch (counterclockwise I think) and you will be able to lift this piece off. Set it out of the way enough to work on the handlebars. Next you will see two U shaped collars with two socket head cap screws in each holding the handlebars. Remove these. BE CAREFUL, the weight of the handlebars will let them drop to your fairing, could cause damage. Next take channel locks or pliers and rotate the bottom half of the mount 180 degrees. Reverse procedure and reassemble. This will bring them closer to you. Before you go through all this, look at them before taking them apart. If they are towards the front of your Cade in the opening in the plastic piece they are away from you, if toward the back, (toward you) they have already been changed. ~Dennis

I prepared my bike for a trip down the Blue Ridge and found the air in the tire low, BE Surprised what a couple of LBS of air will do, also used the auto leveler which I haven't done LATELY as I very seldom ride two up. did this trip a couple of years ago with Dunlops, this Year with Cruise Maxes and what a difference. wasn't in an IRON BUTT but put 1100 miles on the Cade. SUZUKI DIDN'T KNOW WHAT HE HAD when he quit making this MACHINE. THE WOBBLE IS GOOOONE, just shows what a little maintenance checking will do FER YA. RIDE SAFE and ALL ya CAN (WINTER IS A COMIN) CKECK DEM OIL LEVELS AND AIR PRESSURE ~WALTER IN MARYLAND

THERAPY

I had a 1982 GL 1100 Interstate. Very mint condition except for a small amount of fade on the upper painted areas. I put 58K on that bike in two years. I loved it. I had every accessory known to GL riders. gobs of lights and it was so damned dependable. I got divorced. I did toy with the idea of selling the GL to get a new apartment. I put it off and things worked out. But then I got hooked up with this psycho woman. I mean "out there" guys. Anyway, I stuck it out for a year. I needed $ quick and I did sell the GL 1100 and unfortunately I did not get what it was worth because I was in a hurry. I took the first cash that came along. I needed the $ for an apartment. I was without a bike for 3 months. Finally my best friend could not stand it anymore. He loaned me $1400.00 for a 1983 Venture. I loved that bike too. Ran like a raped ape. Quick.... quick....quick! Eyeball sucking quick. Handled like a dream. I put 43K miles on that one in two years. Then I bought the Cade. Cade is the best so far. Not the quickest, but it has the most guts. Not the smallest bike, but is the most comfortable. Not the most maneuverable at slow speeds but will carve the twisties with a CBR1000 all day. I know because I did that in June. The guy was in awe of the 900 LB. machine keeping up with him in the corners. Mind you he would eat me alive in the straights. He kept wondering what that scraping sound was on his tail. It was me, wearing off the pegs, muffler tips and sidestand. :-) [Insert smile here!] Keep it man! You will regret it in the end. I have promised to never be without a bike in my stable till I die. My soul needs the breeze. ~Gary

TRACYíS CD

Does anyone have the "Shop Manual and Parts Manual on CD $22.00 (U.S) Contact Tracy at: adnet@mpks.netď, if so, do you know if it has the complete repair information that would be contained in the $80.00 book that I could purchase from Suzuki? Thanks in advance

I don't know what is in the $80.00 manual but I bet the CD from Tracy includes the info you are looking for. ~George

I didn't know Suzuki had a book with "complete repair information"...what do they call it? Is it limited to the Cav or to Suzuki bikes in general? I'm interested in what you can tell me about this book. The CD you spoke of is an excellent compilation of Cavalcade service material...it even has some "gingerbread" thrown in, such as magazine articles on the Cav and copies of brochures or magazine ads for the Cav -- kind of neat! The CD that Tracy has put together is easy to use (Acrobat Reader)...I've even printed off the complete parts manual and have it at the shop when I work on my bike. If you don't own the CD and you're a serious Cavalcade owner you really should spring for the $22 and get it...you will not be sorry! ~Fred L. Meisenheimer

WHATíS THE STATE OF YOUR STATOR?

Wow! I'm rolling down the highway, at about 10pm, rocking to my 70's tunes and I notice that my lights where starting to get a little dim. At first I wasn't sure, then after about 20min, things where starting to get pretty critical and I still had 30 minutes of riding on a dark highway until I was home. Whew! I made it home and started my trouble shooting of the system. Here are my readings. Bike running, lights on 10.4 volts, marker lights on 8.2vdc. Charged the battery over night. 12.2 vdc @ 5000rpm, 11.9 at idle. I'm going to pull the faring off and check the stator and rectifier. So, now it's looking like my turn to buy a stator (pending the troubleshooting results) ~Alvin 87 LXE Newark Ohio

Hey! As you might know, I found a problem with my stator. Since I didn't want to pay $400 for a new one I decided to repair it myself. This is my progress report so far. I called the supplier for the wire that is referenced in the stator section in our Suzukicavalcade.com web site. I was quoted a price of $30 for 199ft, which equals 1.3/4 lb. of wire(only sold by the reels). I needed a little over 210ft for the job. So I was being forced to purchase 400ft of wire for $60. Now the web site stated that the charge would approximately $5 a pound. It seem that this company has been contacted by a number of us members and has decided to jack the price way up and put enough wire on the spool to where you will need to buy two. NO THANKS! I found a company close to where I live that had the wire I needed for $4 a pound. He said when I was done winding the stator, bring it back to him (Cardinal Electric 740-366-6850) and they will dip it in a varnish solution and bake it for a charge of $25. If winding this stator works, I'll have under $40 in it and a little time. As for the winding part. I started winding last night. It took 1.5 hours to complete one of the 3 phases. When that was complete, I was ready to quit for the night. When you are winding, turn on some music or the TV, do not rush and take breaks when needed. Most of all do not try to do it all in one day. Because If you do something wrong along the way, your whole day and maybe the whole project is wasted. I think when I start the second phase, I will only complete half a phase a day. I found myself near the end starting to rush and going back to rewind some post. I'm just lucky that this problem happened at the end of the season. Stay tuned for further updates.

What are the specs on the wire? I have a cousin with an electric shop that may be able to give us a good price. I see there is about 210 feet...what about material and gauge?

Here is the latest stator rewinding report. I completed the rewinding of the stator last Thursday. This ended up being approximately 6 hours of labor, over a period of 3 days. Friday I took the stator to Cardinal Electric to have it dipped in varnish, baked and to have the three wires that exit the stator casing, silver soldered on. Last night I installed the stator and did an ops check. Before the new stator, my readings were 20vac, 22vac, and 50vac. The reading at the battery with everything on at 5000rpm was 6.5vdc. The readings after installing the rewound stator are 118vac, 120vac and 119ac. The battery with everything on at 5000rpm is 13.5vdc. Needles to say, I had a big ass smile on my face and proud as a Peacock. The only thing that would of made this perfect. If I would of looked up and saw Tyra Banks (Super model) standing over my bike holding a Bud Light for me, saying "I sure would love to go for ride on you Cade". Needless to say, I'll just have to settle for a working stator. So here are my conclusions. The total cost was $43 and if I was thinking about it at the time, The 3 screws that hold the down the stator to the casing, I would change them with hex head bolts, to get a better grip to tighten. Also, Pay very close attention when removing the stator from the casing, to see how the wires are wrapped in the casing that exits to the bike. I failed to do this and it took a while to figure this out. All and all it was a great project that was not very hard or complicated. If you can, do it your self and take you copilot out to dinner on the Cade with the big money that was saved and you'll still have a lot left over for a show and dance.

Alvin, Where did you take the readings for the 118,120, and 119 vacuum readings? I would like to check mine to see what they are cause I added 55 watt h3 driving lights to my bike and my voltage slowly drops to or below 12v when they are on. thanks. ~Brian in IN

Hey Brian I took my stator readings ( I know you don't want to hear this) behind the headlight, where the three yellow wires plug into the rectifier. I had my farings off, so I had no problem getting to this location. I took readings at 2 locations on the bike. The first was right at the stator before I spliced it to the bike and the second reading was behind the headlight after the stator was spliced in. I'm now trying to find a sweet looking voltmeter to install on the bike, so that if I have this problem again, I can catch it before I get stranded of a long dark road. Not a good feeling! C-YA Everyone! ~Alvin Taylor

Alvin, Did you put the other voltmeter lead to 12v ground then, or some place else?? Thanks, ~Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

Brian the stator readings are taken BETWEEN the yellow stator wires. i.e.: with the meter set on AC the black lead in one, the red lead in the other, there SHOULD be a reading across any two leads such as 1-2 90ac or more 2-3 90ac or more. These readings are taken WITH the wires unplugged 3-1 90ac or more and the bike running at 5000 rpm. Hope this helps! ~WALTER IN MARYLAND

SHIMMY, SHIMMY, BOP, BOP!

I know we are able to cipher out some of the bugs in our bikes. I was just wondering if some of the truly High mileage owners could sort of brief ME or US on some of the maintenance problems, bugs, and whims or whereas that we as owners of the same machine might be on the look out for. I have a couple of riders test results that were done on this bike back in 85 and Ď86 ant they also speak of a wobble that this particular bike can pick up, and I to have experienced this. But it was never consistent on any given road or surface and I know it isn't a maintenance problem or something worn out its just nature for this bike. (I THINK.) They also mentioned that at High speed this was a feature that she also showed her shimmy shake. Mine has never been so bad that I thought I was in danger. But just a slight one sort of to let you know to back off or try again. YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN. I also noticed this on the Blue Ridge pkwy if you let off too quick or rolled her in a turn not quite right, but it went away just as one of you said when you rolled the throttle on again. Sorry this is so long, would like to hear from the high milers ~Walter

Walter, I have never experienced the wobble you speak of so I can't help there. But I sure would like to get a copy of those reports. Any chance you can scan them in? Regards ~Rick

I wasn't really complaining about the wobble. After reading over these rider reports, I saw it was a common occurrence, and I know it is not the tires as I too have cruise max tires and am VERY pleased with them. I just was reading some of the messages on earlier posts. Some riders had mentioned a wobble as I stated in the first message it wasn't anything I felt was mechanical, but more pavement surface, or my riding style, it's not always there. Iíd like to read some input from the truly high mileage Cade owners, as to what maintenance or parts they have had to replace, Just as personal reference, My bike has 36000 miles on it and runs and rides like it's probably got another 2000000, BUT. I have read that Dunlop elite 11 were used however MY ownerís manual clearly shows Dunlop Qualifiers. I have been through two sets of them got 12000 miles best. When I went to the cruise maximum what a difference. Itís quieter and has a feel of true control. Plus I like the looks. ~Walter

Hi Walt, I have nearly 160,000 miles on my Cavalcade and I can't say I have experienced a shimmy. It's been pretty smooth in just about all situations. Some that would have been pretty hairy if it hadn't handled really well. My wife tends to beat on me if I go over 100, so I'm not an expert over that, but cornering and just about any road I've been on has been a pure joy. The problem might be tires. When they start to wear down they tend to "cup" on the sides. First sign of that and mine get changed. Make sure there is no slack in the rear swing arm. That could cause it. A fork brace makes a big difference too. Make sure the tire pressure is right. I run 40 psi in my Dunlop 491 Elite 11's. Low tire pressure can make the bike act really weird. Hope this helps. ~Eugene San Diego

I got the progressives on the back...Work like a champ. I got the ones for a Gold Wing (416-1626A) and it had the 30-50í86 adapter included. I didn't want to use the stock air lines for fear of contaminating the new shocks. I by-passed the auto-level and keep 30lbs (instructions say max of 80) in them. ~Dan in Dallas/Fort Worth, TX

SNIFF

About 2 weeks ago my wife and I were coming back from a 2-hour trip when we started to smell something that smelled like gas burning or exhaust fumes. I pulled over and looked around but couldnít find anything. we decided to keep heading for home(about 15min away) the smell stayed with us {seemed as if it was under seat} since then I've removed all exhaust system and found no holes, also traced gas lines but no holes that I can see.. now I must ask you guys if anyone has had this problem and if so what is it... Or if anyone has any suggestions of what it might be... If anyone can help me out please contact me at davybee@entermail.net Thank You all for being here. ~Dave

David, I read your e-mail and have a similar smell on my bike, but not so much while riding, more so when I park in the garage and come out a few minutes later to empty the bike. smells like a cross between burnt gas and oil. I mentioned it to my wife and she said itís always smelled that way (thought I was low on oil after last ride). I've had gas drips along the front of my carburetors onto the cylinder. I plan on having rebuild work done this winter and hopefully that'll cure it. If you find out, let me know. ~Mike Romano

Dave, I sometimes get exhaust smells and it seems to be just the way the wind is blowing the exhaust or the vacuum created by the fairing sucking it back it. ~Rick

AIR HOSE CONNECTION

I own an Ď86 lx. When I last serviced the air compressor I noticed a shredder valve that could be accessed through a rubber push plug in the bottom of the left storage or (glove box) is this where the auxiliary air hose is connected? If this is so, how do you get the compressor to run to pump air through the auxiliary air hose? My compressor only runs if you're pumping the seats up or in the auto level mode OR maybe mine isn't able to pump up it's own tires. HAVEN'T NEEDED TO, JUST WONDERING ~WALTER IN MARYLAND

Walter, there are a couple ways to use the compressor after you've hooked the hose up at the location you've discovered. Rather than going into them here if you go to the Egroups page-cavalcade_USA, then messages, type in air hose and search the archives, there are several entries on the subject from past posts. For the newer members to the group, this is a wealth of information on past discussions, well worth the surfing time through the archives. ~Dennis Vanill

Hi Walter, To properly use the air compressor to air up tires etc. you need the switch to operate it. If you look on Tracy's CD in the options section on figure 97, page 82, you will find the part number and a picture showing the location to install it. I ordered one from my dealer early this summer and it took about two weeks to order and receive. The part number is 62680-24A00. There is a plug on the wiring harness next to the radio box and frame that the switch plugs into. You will probably have to remove the radio box to get to the plug on the wiring harness. The hose is not available any longer. I made one out of some parts I had on hand. Others in the group have ordered one that is in the Honda section of the J.C. Whitney catalog. Hope this helps. ~David Ď86 LXE

SUPERBRACE

How much different is the super brace than the OEM fork brace ? Is it worth the money? ~Denny Potoczky Ď86 LXE South Bend, IN

Denny, The Superbrace is machined from solid aluminum. It replaces a hollow, light, cast brace. Thereís definitely no comparison in craftsmanship. As far as ďdoes it make a difference?Ē - I put mine on shortly after getting the bike. I'm thinking it has to hold the forks with more stability. For $99.95, I'd say, "Get one!" ~Mark Hohman 'Ď86 LX Wheeling, WV

Denny, I added the Superbrace to my Ď86LX and the wobble in the turns went away! If and when I upgrade to an LXE it will have a Superbrace! ~Bob Morse

Friends, I've read enough of the e-mails about the Superbrace. Now I'm curious. What is this brace? Does it take the place of one my bike already has or is it a totally new add-on? Where exactly does it go? Why do I need it? Thanks for helping me out! ~Fred M.

I ordered and installed the super brace on my '87LXE. It went on in 5 minutes, no problems. It comes with the cap screws and screw hole covers. It replaces the brace that is currently between the forks just on top of the fender. The brace is twice the thickness of the existing one and of solid aluminum alloy and much heavier. Bob Gebauer is the owner of the shop that makes the brace and was very friendly and helpful. Part number for my bike was #3310. Cost approx. $100 Since I am rebuilding my bike from a wreck, I haven't test ridden it on the highway yet, but I plan to do so soon. ~Gerry from Littleton

I put the super brace on when my bike was nearly new and I did not notice any wobble until doing some high speed down hill curves. I then put in progressive suspension fork springs and the problem went away. I think that both are necessary. ~Bill F.

Fred, the Superbrace replaces the one on the bike. The brace that comes with the Cavalcade is cast aluminum and goes from one fork leg to the other just above the front fender. There are 2 Allen bolts on each fork leg(bolt heads will probably be covered by chrome colored plastic caps). To attached the Superbrace which is a much heavier aluminum brace you unbolt the original and bolt on the new one with longer bolts and your done. Stops the fork legs from flexing under load. ~Al from Mass

Denny, about 16 months ago there was a discussion among the members about the value of the Superbrace. At the time I was contemplation changing front fork oil, new progressive springs, and anything else I could think of to improve what I thought were handling problems. Found a Superbrace at a salvage yard and bought it on the chance it might help. It made such a difference I didn't do any of those other things. The stock brace has metal ears (for lack of a better term) that fit around the leg of the forks on mine the spacing of the ears which are supposed to fit tight to the fork had actually widened out due to the vibration and pounding of the front. Knowing what I do now I would definitely recommend it. I think Nancy and Larry put one on this year maybe they can give us a report on how they feel. The stock brace is about 1/2-inch thick cast aluminum whereas the Superbrace is about 1-inch thick solid/machined aluminum - I'll have to leave it to the machinists among us to express that in terms of strength. ~Al from Mass

P.S. I sure am glad I found the group, and the wealth of information/ common knowledge it represents.

It replaces the brace already on the bike. It is about 11/2 inches thick and replaces the current brace. The bike rides more smoothly and is safer. And if Larry can install it in no time so can you. ~Motherwind

Speaking of Superbrace... Did we settle which brace, which year, which model etc.? There were discussions that people were getting the wrong brace...any resolution? ~Mike Romano

I added the progressive front springs and rear shocks .... Worth every penny! I plan on getting a Superbrace. I have one on my 1st Cade but the LXE doesn't have one. It will before year-end. ~Paul

Thanks for your input, folks. I am planning on re- doing my front end this winter. That will be a good opportunity to put one on. I am considering lowering my front end an inch or so to assist in my lack of inseam. Has anyone done this? Would the progressive front spring set allow this more than stock? I talked with Progressive about lowering the bike but they have nothing shorter than the stock air shock they offer and didn't say anything about the front end. I realize that on the back, something would have to be adjusted with the height sensor. Any other problems I'm not seeing? I'm going to talk with Air Works yet to see if they have anything for the Cade. BTW, I've used the EMGO (JC Whitney) filters through out the past five years and have never had a problem with them. ~Denny

Well Santa brought me the Superbrace, an I'm very pleased with Santa. The first person, that stopped to talk to me, at the 99 Americade in Lake George NY, was a previous Cade owner. "you know you need to get a Superbrace", Previous to this I had noticed play or 'wobble' in the steering when crossing the semi truck grooves in the interstate, at interstate speeds, My 1100 Suzuki didnít have that. With the Superbrace the "wobble" is practically gone, and the over all steering feels tighter, and counter steering is improved with sharper response. When I buy another Cade it will get a Superbrace too. another Cade!!! hmmm, I hope Santa reads this! ~Larry

THOSE CUSTOM PIPES

For those who did NOT go to Americade and see the Cavalcade Trike with the custom exhaust...

No, it's not as loud as a Harley with straight pipes but was VERY sweet. Almost like a hotrod with glass packs but better... I just don't have the $600+ it will cost me for those mufflers just yet :o(

~Brian, 87LXE in CT

PARTS NEEDED

Hello All, I am looking for a right side mirror for my Ď86LX. The mirror plate that attaches to the fairing is split in two. I called my local dealer and he said that it is a discontinued part. Any suggestions? ~Bob Morse Ď86LX

YEAR AND MODEL

I was reading through old messages and am interested in finding out about different years / models. Was there a Cavalcade made in 89???I havenít seen anyone saying they have one. Also, were there LXE's in '88 or '89? Paulís site doesnít say anything about a LXE for these years, but does list a 89 LX. If you own a 88 or 89, please inform us on your year/model bike. Thanks.. ~Brian in IN Ď87 tt Gray LX

I have a 88 lx its my understanding there wasnít any LXE in 88 .I donít know about 89

Brian I have an 88 LXE. From what I was told it was sold in Canada but not the US ~Rick

WINDSHIELD

I saw that someone is having a problem finding a windshield for their Cade. Slip streamer makes an excellent replacement shield for the Cade, it's is what you would get if you ordered from J.C. Whitney, but any dealer or accessory shop should be able to get one. It is as tall ( 26" ) as o.e.m., but not as wide ( only slightly ) I got mine 3 yrs. ago through Chrome & Stuff in Nashville TN. And it was cheaper than through Whitney. ~Bill Brooks, Flat Creek TN.

I just got a windshield from JC Whitney. I put it on the bike yesterday. I was really impressed with the smoothness and clarity of it. Anyone looking for a replacement, I would recommend it. The windshield was about $90.00 ($89 something). I'm very pleased with it. ~Jim in Ohio

Hello Group, I went to a dealer in NW Indiana and got some Plexus in hopes of removing the scratches in my windshield, but after I applied it, the scratches were evidently to deep to be removed. Now to fill you in, I made a new windshield out of Lexan, Which evidently donít have the scratch resistant coating on it like most MC windshields do. Anyhow, I asked the guy at the dealer what the best product would be to remove the scratches and he replied "Yacht Brite Buff Magic". So I did a search for this product only to find out it is made right here in IN. I sent the manufacture an email saying that if their product does what it says it will, that I would tell 700+ members about it and they would get many requests for this product. I am eagerly waiting for their reply and to receive this "hopefully wonderful answer to many of our problems". As soon as I get my hands on it, I will try it out and post the results to this group. If you want to see what they say about "Buff Magic", here is the link to their web site. http://www.yachtbrite.com/buffmagic.htm I hope to be able to give you a good review by next week. ~Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

SONGS & POETRY

Oh, Happy Day! Oh, Happy Day! I got to ride my Cavalcade today!

It's like brand new, my cares are few, and the sun is shining for me too.

It's been four years of pain and tears, since I hit that Canadian pickup's rear.

Now it's healed my soul, t'have my blue bike whole,

I'll take her out and watch the miles roll.

Oh, Happy Day! Oh, Happy Day! I got to ride my Cavalcade today!

~Jay

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I had HeyJerr arrive To help fix my shaft drive In a row I had all my ducks

Till my clutch fluid spill increased my parts bill, Those plastic bits will cost you big bucks.

The secondary gear case, Found the plug in the base, The lost hypoid caused me to say:

To explain there's no need 'Cause at full highway speed A back wheel lock can spoil your whole day.

On the road I am back with no leaks, and no clack, The fixes were correctly all made,

Now I have little doubt I will ride my brains out, On the best bike, the Suzook Cavalcade.

~Spike

ELECTRIC LAUNDRY

Spent a great weekend on the Maine shore at a little B&B...we forget how weird we see to people who go on weekend trips in their (Yuk!) cars! A little nippy late at night and early in the am (when the sun's not up), but in our new Aerostitch unobtanium heated vests (thank you Ralph for the magazine comparison) we were toasty! Anybody out there whose better half shys away from Fall or early spring rides b/c of the temps has got to get these. Bought two of these, $137 ea. and a "Y" splitter from Aerostitch, took 5 min. to wire up and we were off! What a difference! The Cade, well, cruising along 70-75, kicked it on the stretches, vvvvvrrrooom it takes off, even at 80...then scares me and I back it down, what a bike!!!!! I'm still hooked on lighting, for visibility and safety. I went to a local Honda dealer and Steve, the parts man, hooked me up with an after market chrome bracket that fits around our engine guard and then angles out to the side with a hole in it for a fog or spot lights.

Hi All, Well, I took the advice of some of our members and hooked some extra electrics to my Cade. I moved my Autocom intercom and wires from the right faring pocket to under the left faring pocket (on the outside wall where the compressor is). I ran a hot lead from the battery (unscrewed the bolt and stuck a "U" clip wire under it) positive terminal over to the left faring pocket where I put a 6 terminal 90 amp (15amp ea.)accessory block. Off the accessory block I ran the positive leads for (1) electric vests (2) new fog lamps and (3) fog lamp lighted toggle switch (which I installed right below the left faring speaker). I have 3 additional places for 3 extra stuff (microwave, toaster oven, etc.) I picked up a "light harness" kit for the lights which includes the switch (which I replaced with the lit toggle), the power lead (to my new accessory block), a relay, wires, connectors, a WIRING DIAGRAM and used it. works great. Took Griz's (Brian) suggestion and bought a set of 55w amber fog lamps from Wal-Mart $16.99 and they look great, light me up and fit nicely on the brackets. They say "amber" but it seems like they shine white as well as amber. So, fuse block, harness, lights, brackets, around $40 bucks (plus another $100 worth of blown fuses - no only kidding!). The vests are warm and toasty, the lights make me much brighter at night, and thanks to all for your input. now if I can figure something out for additional rear running/brake lights, I'll be set for a while! Best, ~Mike Romano

 

They're nice b/c you don't have to cut through the bracket between the upper and lower engine guard - they fit inside, in front of the radiator and then angle out. Drag Specialties - Part No. DS-393440 ($16) and they're called "Bracket for 1985 LTD, Ď86, SE-I 87 ASP, 88-97 GL". (I imagine that's all Gold Wing shit...) Tighten down nice...now I'm just waiting to pick the light - any thoughts everyone? - Fog or Driving? Amber or Clear? Best, ~Mike

I need to trouble shoot the ignition system and I believe the best place to begin that process is to tap the experience and knowledge of this group. Thank you in advance for any input. About 3000 miles ago the ignition fuse blew, replaced it and things had been fine, till yesterday. In the last 10 starts the bike would not start twice. The first non-start moment was a simple pop in a new fuse and away we go. The second non-start moment was about a half-hour ago. This time I popped in a new fuse and it blew. I popped in a 15-amp fuse to get it to go. No good, it blew. I popped in a another 10 amp fuse, put the bike in gear, rocked it back and forth a little bit, hit the starter she fires up. I suspect starter troubles. Thanks again for any input. On Saturday my wife and I took part in a bike run to benefit a local volunteer fire company. There were about 60 bikes involved. Two of those bikes were Cades mine and a beautiful Ď86 LX . The ownerís name is Dan and he now knows of this group, I suspect he will be joining us soon. He only lives about 4 miles from me. He had seen me cruising around town a couple of times. Last week I put new K491's on the old girl. I intended to put cruise max's on her but the mechanic at the tire shop told me cruise max's were know good for this big of a bike. Now I see Walter Overfelt is impressed with the cruise max's. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks ~geo

In starting my bike and proceeding to work noticed that LCD display, turn signals were not functioning. I proceeded for about 5 miles and stopped for coffee. The bike would not restart, starter pulled in seemed as though battery was dead. I looked into the fuse panel area and noticed the two wire plug from the negative side of the battery appeared burned or melted. All fuses were ok. The main circuit breaker was ok. But still no brake lights, turn signals, neutral indicator or LCD display, the bike sat till I could get a trailer to take her home, unloaded , squeezed clutch, pressed starter and vroom, but still none of the above worked. Any one had this problem????? Anyone have a good suggestion ~Walter in Maryland

Walter, I had that problem and ended up replacing stator and rectifier last June. ~Chopper

AIR SHOCKS

This is Gary in Greenfield Wis. I need help on windshield mine has a sprayed on film I guess to protect it . Well it is all scratched up . How do I get it off ?? it is clear under the film. Also my air comp. works on the seats but not the shocks any help there too would be great. Thank you guys Gary Ď86Cade Greenfield Wis.

Gary: Had same thing happen to mine, I tried power buffing it out, It takes film off but will distort windshield. Bought a new Slipstreamer windshield from JC Whitney. On the air shocks, first make sure kick stand is up and key is on while sitting on the bike, if the compressor doesn't respond at all when you push the button, check the leveling sensor which is behind the frame behind the rear brake master cylinder. You can disconnect the lower end of the sensor and pull the plunger out. There should be a tab on the end of the plunger about 2 1/2 inches long. If it is broken off, that is the problem. If this isn't the problem, email back and will help test further. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: <the20ds@cs.com To: <Cavalcade_usa@egroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [Cavalcade_USA] defective shock Dennis Vanill....

CAVALCADES FOR SALE (MAYBE)

I really don't care for country music, but my life has recently started sounding like the beginning of a sad country song. In an attempt to keep the song from progressing I am considering selling the Cade...in hopes to be able to take care of some of these problems and buy another bike next year. I've got an '87 LXE, black & gray, 48,500 miles...stereo...compressor with passenger and driver air in the seats...cornering lights (wired as running lights)...front fender rail with fork lights (3 per side)... bullet marker lights on rear bumper...new Dunlop rear tire...shaft seals replaced in July... You guys know what's on the LXE. Runs great! I'll sell it for $4000 firms... Otherwise I'll find another way to fix the money problems. Located in Olean, NY...75 miles south of Buffalo on the Pennsylvania border. If interested, contact me direct by email or give me a call: home: 716-372-5876 work: 716-375-3332 (M-F, 7am-4pm) Until then...I'll keep on riding!

Ok guys after some consideration I am thinking of selling the Cade but I want to see if anyone here would be interested in it. Specs are as follows... 87 LXE maroon needs right side mirror. Buttons replaced on radio 76k on bike drive shaft has been replaced all options except for the CB work. I have the CB but the previous owner has removed it. Thereís a new rear tire with about 2000 miles. It is very nice but my wife is leaving me and I don't think I can stand to ride it without her please let me know...I don't even have a price in mind and I may be able to get a picture. I don't know yet... just let m know if you are interested. By the way I am in Georgia ~Travis, email: travis.conley@hallco.org

Hi all I just thought I would give the group another shot at my Ď86 lx before I stuck it in the paper. I hate to sell it, but back problems force the sale. Everything works and runs great. The only bad spots are the top of the trunk and on the fairing by the mirrors (I t looks like the clear coat is all gone). Thereís a new front Dunlop. First $2900. Evansville, Indiana - Days 812-425-4439 -- Evenings and weekends - 812-479-6645 Thanks - Mike Hudson

FOR TRADE OR SALE ~ I have an Ď86 LXE that runs like a dream. It has the cornering lights, CB, cigarette lighter, air seat, cruise works, Kenwood marine radio with CD player, (have factory radio with switches replaced, rotor covers, mud flaps (Cavalcade flaps) original cavalcade helmet that matches bike which is gold and brown, original cavalcade bags for trunk and saddle bags. Cavalcade fender tip and front fork lights as well as rear trunk and saddle bag lights. This bike leaks not a drop of oil or any other fluid. I just changed the primary and secondary gear oil. I have two covers for the bike. One is brand new from one of the postings of a couple of weeks ago. The bike has 29,000 miles and here is the kicker. I have a parts bike that was an Ď86 LX. No fairing with it and no head light. The motor is in fine shape. It is totally striped down. I used the cosmetics off it on the LXE. What I want is a blue Cavalcade. Why do you ask would I want that? I love the blue Cade. Blue is my favorite color and I do not want to paint the Cade that I have. The clear coat on my Cade is oxidized on the trunk. I replaced the little luggage rack with the larger one. I do not have the lowers on the LXE, but I do have the cables and lever installed on the bike. If anyone would like to buy both bikes straight out, I will take 4950.00 for all. That would include the brand new full-face helmet I just bought (160.00) Bieffe b120 classic and a black open face HKF. Email Gerry41@multipro.com.

 

I've got an '87 LXE, black & gray, 48,500 miles...stereo...compressor with passenger and driver air in the seats...cornering lights wired as running lights...front fender rail with fork lights (3 per side), bullet marker lights on rear bumper...new Dunlop rear tire...shaft seals replaced in July...you guys know what's on the LXE. Runs great! I'll sell it for $4000 firm. Located in Olean, NY...75 miles south of Buffalo on the Pennsylvania border. If interested, contact me direct by email or give me a call: home: 716-372-5876 work: 716-375-3332 (M-F, 7am-4pm)

 

STORY OF A FATAL ACCIDENT

Hello everyone, Because of work, I've been 'lurking' for a while. In fact, I'm behind again in all of my reading. But I had to pass on this story - unfortunately, it's all true. The rest of the story is as told to me by a distraught father, age 63. Three weeks ago, just before heading to El Paso, I received a call from Doyle, my partner for that location. He knows that I ride, had mentioned previously that his son also rode, and was telling me that he might be arriving late for the project. Seems his son had been in an accident, had lost a leg, his wife (his passenger) had been killed, and he was in highly sedated, undergoing various tests. We chatted a little longer while I offered my assistance in any way possible, and I assured him that if he should arrive late, there would be no problem. Later, after he had arrived, I got more details. His son and his new wife had been riding near Tyler, TX and had been enjoying a great ride together. They had been cruising when they observed a Jeep approaching on a side road. It slowed, stopped momentarily, then pulled in front of them. Both rider and passenger were thrown from their ride. The 19-yr. old driver of the Jeep was uninjured. The bike, a Voyager, was totaled. To my knowledge, neither was wearing a helmet. The son ("Son") was in no condition to provide assistance of any kind to his predicament. Heavily sedated, he had not been told of the death of his new wife, was somewhat aware of the loss if his leg, and was being tested thoroughly for further injury, primarily for head injuries. The family had not been notified of the accident by the authorities. Instead, a friend of the ex-wife heard a media report of the accident, naming the son. She called the former wife, who called Doyle. He, in turn, called the community where the accident had occurred and was directed to the hospital. As Son's father and with no surviving immediate family, he then became the authorizing authority with regard to medical care. Immediate needs under control, other issues then became important. Doyle had been contacted with the father of his deceased daughter-in-law, and together they went to the couple's apartment to find documents pertaining to insurance. While there, they decided to move the contents of the apartment to storage for safekeeping. Some documents were found. Arrangements for moving were made and carried out. Bills were found, creditors contacted, and the landlord notified. Meanwhile, the sister had arranged for the bike to be transported to her home and had contacted the Son's insurance carrier; to find only Collision coverage. The carrier would look at the bike immediately, and when asked, advised her to not get an attorney involved unless they were dissatisfied with what was being offered by the insurance carriers. At this point, over the 4 days we were working in El Paso, Doyle asked me for my opinions and shared his experiences and concerns. As we discussed the situation, I asked whether he had anyone he could turn to for legal advice. His comment was that he'd never had to use an attorney, and wouldn't know where to turn. My advice was that he didn't need to sign an agreement for representation. But with the circumstances of Loss of Limb and Wrongful Death, long-term recovery, property settlement and other issues, he at least needed some legal advice, preferable from someone who knew his son. His divorce attorney might do for a start. Other than that, I suggested that there were attorneys who specialized in these issues, and suggested that he talk to one or two for basic advice. The first attorney he contacted, before their meeting took place, had acquired the accident report from the local authority and discovered several discrepancies in documented information, to include the other driver's insurance policy number being recorded incorrectly, which they had since gotten corrected. When told of their work and protesting that he'd not signed any agreement, they assured him that this was part of their service, and that he was under no obligation. This last was over a week ago. Son had been moved from Intensive Care to a more normal care mode, was already asking for crutches so he could get around, and couldn't understand why his wife had been killed and not him. He was working with Doyle and his former father-in-law to begin to bring issues under control and the meeting between Doyle and the attorney was scheduled for the next morning. I apologize for the long-windedness, but I had to pass this story on. In contemplating all that I'd been told I realized that our responsibilities as riders go far beyond ourselves, our passengers/loved-ones, and our bike. Our entire sphere of family could potentially become involved, possibly as the result of tragic circumstances. Be ever vigilant when riding. Even more so now, ~Andy Midland, TX

Andy, Sad story. Too close to all of us for comfort. Interestingly, when I got my bike insurance, it didn't cover family-member-passengers. Does anybody else out-there have the same idea? Best, ~Mike Romano

HI mike, I have universal underwriters and I thought it covered any passenger on my bike. Now I will check. ~Bob

Property & Casualty insurance varies from state to state. Find an insurance agent that you trust. Go over the fine print with them and evaluate your coverage. Arizona once paid out under liability regardless of family relationships and on all policies you might have i.e. automobile. The laws change all the time. It is a good idea to review your coverage every year. ~SRB

I have American Family everyone is covered. I got everything for $180.00 a year, all year long. ~Gary Greenfield Wis.

About American Family Insurance, you would have to look up in your state, because I talked to my guy & he said that each state would have something else. And he canít insure out of state people unless they have Wis. for their hometown state. Look in phone book. You should have one in your state. Sorry this is all I could get you. ~Gary Wis.

Hey Gary, you got an address or phone number on this place? ~Al California...÷j÷

Even more interesting, my insurance "state farm (Ohio)" refuses to cover personal injury of any kind. They cover the bike, damage to other people, but not the rider, nor the passenger. LOL Luckily, I'm covered by my employers insurance. PLUS, they charge me 48 bucks a month. I don't have high risk, but I'm only 22 and I'm single, plus I have to carry full coverage, because I took a small loan out to buy the bike. <Shrug

I checked with my insurance agent today as you guys got me thinking about medical insurance. Seems it's not available in New York State for rider or passenger per NYS law. ~Dennis Vanill

CAVALCADE REVIEW

I grew up in the South. While we never had "Hells Angels" here, everyone did ride Harleys. I've had two of them myself back in the 60's and 70's. Mostly Sportsters. They didn't ride very well. I ride with mostly Honda riders and most of them spend their time looking in the Harley Davidson Storefront Window at night. I'm there, too. I think the most unusual thing about the Cavalcade is believing it is real. I've had two GoldWings, 2 Sportsters, a BSA lightning Rocket, A Harley Skat dirt bike and two Cushman Highlanders,

over a riding period of 35 years. I find myself wanting something new from time to time. I think that's natural when people around you have new bikes. But, I just can't move up. I've tried out a late model Gold Wing. Didn't sound like a motorcycle to me, more like a small British Sports car like the little

Triumph Spitfires. Road O.K., but nose-dived when you let off the gas. The Cavalcade floats on down the road, even when you let off the gas. Road a Kawasaki Vulcan, road o.k. but not as comfortable. and really didn't handle as well. I road a Triumph Motorcycle, but it was a Rice Rocket with a big seat and big rear tire. Let off the gas and it will throw you over the windshield like you locked the brakes. I just sat on a Yamaha Roadster and the spur on the front of the seat almost castrated me. Had to sit there and smile in the showroom while inside I was dying for about 5 minutes. Rode all the Honda Shadows, etc.. Road and handles like a Semi Truck. Has all the handling qualities of Riverboat. Had to power stop to keep from drifting up into the oncoming lane. Got back on the Cavalcade and wondered why I ever got off. I just can't believe I like this bike. I could have never believed that I would own a Suzuki and would actually feel best when I was on it. It overshadows every brand new motorcycle I've tried out in the past 6 months. I think I have the only motorcycle I need and had to start believing it is for real. Suzuki should have been in the Touring Bikes business for the long haul and not got out when they couldn't out sale the Gold Wings their 2nd year. These are top heavy bikes, to be sure, especially when you have a passenger. Still, they could have lowered the center of gravity and if they'd stayed in the Touring bike business, producing such a state of the art bike like the Cavalcade, they would have surely overtaken the Gold Wing by now. Suzuki

should be encouraged to take another look at the Touring Market and put out a new Cavalcade with all the State of the Art High Tech stuff they have today. It would surely find a market and they should stay in the market. The only other bike I would own, "In the summertime" would be a Suzuki Intruder 1400, as it fit and feels as good as the Cavalcade. Heard to many horror stories about the Intruder 1500 to even sit on one, but even so, the 1500 is a big and bulky as a Boss Hoss. The back tire is 10" across and the front one of 8"

across. I measured it. How do you get such a beast around a curb. The Intruder 1500 has such a bad reputation that I don't know if it will ever recovered and regain public trust. I think Suzuki should reproduce a 2001 Cavalcade. I think it would be the flagship of their company and I personally would be in line to buy one. I want something new, but not going to buy it until I find one that is better and that might take awhile. ~Hmay Evans, GA