May, 2004
Here is the May 2004 issue of the Cavalcade Owner's monthly
THIS NEWSLETTER, send me an e-mail with the subject field phrase "No
Future Issues". My e-mail address is 
CADE RAID 2004 ~ BRANSON, MISSIOURI ~ August 16-21, 2004
Send in your registration for Cade Raid 2004. If you need a
registration form, email  and we will email or
snail mail it to you. Remember, we have arranged some outstanding
entertainment packages to take advantage of the world-class shows
available in Branson.
Tuesday evening we will have dinner in our own reserved dining room
at the IMAX Mall, followed by a show. You can choose either the 70mm
3D film "NASCAR: The IMAX Experience," or attend a Live Blue Grass
Stage Show.
Wednesday evening we've reserved space for our group on board the
Branson Belle Showboat for a sunset cruise on Table Rock Lake, plus
dinner and stage show. This same show in Las Vegas or New York would
cost three times as much. It is an evening you will never forget.
Thursday evening we are holding our own special Awards Dinner. The
talent (?) is from our own group of happy Cavalcade owners. We have
surprises so great; even we don't know what they all are yet. But,
we'll have a terrific meal with all our friends, and give out an
award or two. This is the event we will be talking about for the
next two years. (Remember the bald guy in the chicken suit in 2002?)
Our home base will be the Grand Plaza Hotel. We have a special group
rate of just $55.00 per night for up to 4 people in a room. And if
you want to come early or stay longer you can reserve nights before
and after Cade Raid 2004 at the same rate. 
1-800-850-6646. For you campers, contact "America's Best Campground"
499 Buena Vista Road, Branson, MO 65616 (417) 336-4399. Their web
site is: 
Be sure to send your registration for Cade Raid 2004. The $50
registration fee for rider and bike and $25 for a passenger covers
the expenses for holding this event, including the Monday evening
pizza party. Also included is a tee-shirt, pin and coffee mug. For a
registration form and current program schedule email the event
If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event of
interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to  and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.
In case you missed it. HeyJerr send us the following link that shows
pictures a young woman took on a motorcycle ride through the
Chernobyl region.  We found it fascinating. 

I removed the colored lens from the reflector backing, so I could
keep the unit removable (aside from the wiring) from the bike by
just unscrewing the nut from inside.  It was a bit difficult, but a
heat gun really helped (just be sure not to get it too hot or you
will distort the backing plate).  I then fabricated aluminum plates
(so I wouldn't have a problem with rust) & drilled 2 holes in each
plate (1 for the wires & 1 for a locator pin that is on the back of
the light.  If I was to do it again, I probably would not drill the
holes all the way through until the aluminum plate was attached to
the reflector backing plate (I had to put a little tape over the
back side of the hole so the JB Weld wouldn't come through & plug
the hole up).  The plate acts as a spacer because the black trim
around the light made it just a hair too big to fit into the
reflector housing on the bag and the lower fairing & the plate
allowed the light to sit flat against the housing.  I asked the
dealer I bought the lights from about trimming that plastic off and
he said that would allow water to get into the circuit board and
ruin the light.

After the spacer plates were ready, I used JB Weld to attach them to
the reflector backing plates.  I then attached the light to the
spacer plate (the lights have a very good double-faced tape already
on them).  If you didn't want to destroy you reflector to get the
backing plate off, you could just get a thicker aluminum plate
(thick enough to be flush with the outer surface when sitting in the
reflector housing) and either put double faced tape to hold the
plate to the bike or possibly drill a hole in the center of the
plate, JB Weld a bolt into it and grind the head off the bolt.  

As far as the wiring, mine are set up to come when I turn on my aux
lights.  Also, when the aux light are on, these new lights flash
alternately with my turn signals.  If you just want to have them
burn steady, just connect the red wire on the light to the pos (+)
from your power source and run the black wire on the light to ground
(-).  To have them flash alternately with the turn signals, connect
the red wire on the light to the pos (+) from your power source and
the black wire on the light to the Pos (+) for your turn signal. 
The way this works is that any power source for a light that does
not have power going through it is automatically a ground.  So, when
the turn signal is dark, it allows the reflector replacement light
to light by grounding through the turn signal.  When you turn on you
turn signal, power goes to the turn signal, disrupting the ground
and causing the reflector replacement light to go dark. And so-on
and so-forth.

The only other thing required is to drill a small hole in the bike
for the wires to come through.

Here are the P/N's for the lights I bought:

16-107R (Red LED marker light 2 pack- fits the new 1800 Gold Wing)
16-107A (Amber LED marker light 2 pack- fits the new 1800 Gold Wing)

The lights are made by Big Bike Parts, Inc in Rice Lake, WI (705/234-
3336).  I think they are a division of Show Chrome Accessories.  I
bought the lights at the Wing Ding this year from a company
called "Just 4 Wings".  They can be reached at 866/842-9221.  I paid
$37.95/pr but I think that was a special Wing Ding price.  Normally,
they are about $40.00/pr.  The lights are also avail with an
incandescent bulb (vs. LED's) and are about 1/2 the cost, but I do
not know the P/N's for them. I went with LED's because they draw a
lot less power and look more modern. ~Mark Musial

I speak from some experience on this one..... The previous owner had
done some wiring "modifications" to power a trailer connector and
mud flap lights to my '88 Cade LXE. To splice in his new wiring, he
cut the wire at the bottom of the ignition switch, pig-tailed it and
covered it with some electrical tape. Soon after I got the bike, I
noticed that the engine would die (ignition cut out) intermittently
at a certain point in turning the bars. Finally took the fairings
off and found out what a moron the previous owner was when it came
to making proper electrical connections.

Tip: Don't use the quick-connect splices that most auto parts /
hardware stores sell. Learn to solder. The quick-connects will
eventually corrode and you'll have the same problem all over again.
~Don Sellers

Is anyone aware of anything that I can attach to the sides of the
false tank (where your knees would touch) to prevent the wear and
scratching that takes place?  I am thinking of something like a
rubber pad or a piece of plastic that could be attached and take the
wear and tear of your knees. ~Tom (1986 LXE in Alabama)

Well they make a clear stick on film that you could use. Only
problem I could fore see is taking it off when it needs replaced. 
Some cars have this on the lower fender area to help prevent rock
chips. Kinda like a laminate I think. ~Brian in IN
BMW sells the patches that are black in color and will glue to the
faux gas tank. The gold wingers use them as Honda refuses to make
them. Additionally, go to 
~Micky Farrington

Tom, I'm in wholesale auto parts at a Ford dealer. Ford uses those
clear chip guards in several places, mainly on Rangers. It comes
precut though, rather than as sheet goods. If you REALLY want to try
it, stop by any local Ford dealer & ask to look at any BASE part
#292A22 (the parts man will know what that means) Look at the
material & see if it's what you want. We've got a variety of them, I
could check sizes, but NONE are very large, definitely not large
enough to cover the "tank" sides completely - might be one suitable
for the knee bone contact area, though. It may be available in
sheets from auto body paint suppliers, though.

Personally, I wouldn't do it - the stuff IS tough & protects paint
from chipping, but it's NOT high-gloss - it's intended for chip-
prone areas down low on a body, not for great appearance! It does
scratch up just as easily as paint, if not more so. I've no idea if
removing it later would leave damage - after all, when my customers
(body shops) buy them; they're repainting the sheet metal anyway! ~Ed

I noticed in the newsletter that someone was asking about plastic
repair. After using the soldering iron welding method, if you feel
it needs to be reinforced, try this. Most of the plastic is ABS. If
it's not, it is something that the cement works on just as well. I
have taken to using ABS drain pipe, or something like it, as brace
pieces. The ABS cement works like a charm. The repairs I made 4
years ago are still good. This stuff will just not let go.
~Steve, `87 in ON

I bought some stuff called Plastifix last fall because I had some
tabs that were broken off on the fairing and this stuff claims that
you can make new tabs that are stronger than the original, plus
repair other plastic cracks and breaks and things like that. I was
pretty skeptical plus it was a little pricey at 30 bucks for the
smallest kit. Anyway, I finally got to try it last week and the
stuff works like a charm. I would pay double the amount they wanted
for this stuff. I replaced four tabs and they're really strong.  You
can cut and drill this stuff 1 hour after making the repair. I
couldn't believe it. Their website is  and they
even have movies on the website on exactly how to do repairs. By the
way, it sounded and looked kind of complicated at first, but it
probably took me maybe 5 minutes per tab. You have a powder and a
liquid.  You have a type of hypodermic needle on the bottle of
liquid and you drip in onto the powder and then pick up the little
ball of liquid/powder with the needle and then put it where you want
to make your repair, squeezing out more liquid the more you need to
work with it. I know it sounds weird, like it would be a pain, but
it's really not. I highly recommend this stuff. I know I probably
sound like a commercial, but it's pretty rare that you buy something
that does exactly what it says it will so I figured I'd spread the
word. ~Rick

You know these bags aren't all that could take any
smaller black athletic bags and have the Cavalcade emblem silk
screened on them........and a larger bag for the back trunk.  You
could even get bags to match the color of your bikes.  We have the
bags thanks to Bob Ramsey.....but like I said...if I had had to buy
them I sure wouldn't have paid that much for them.  ~Nurse Ratchet

JC Whitney sells a small square shaped fuel pump; you can get them
in different pressure ratings. They work just like your stock pump
they're small enough to mount in the existing location might need to
do a little plumbing, to get the stock lines to attach. put one on a
Madura I had, worked great and they're only $41.99 if you have
catalogue #684j-03they are located on page 88, If not just look in
the index under FUEL>> pumps. They will work, are a lot cheaper and
they're NEW. As for the pressure rating, you'll have to check with
the T-man. As I can't recall what I used but it worked. ~Old COOT `N

I have done two things to try and be noticed more. I refitted the
headlight to work as a Canadian style daytime running light. I run
with the high beam on during the day, but that was a bit too bright.
I re-wired the H beam through a resistor to drop the voltage to
about 8. It is still aimed right at the oncoming traffics focal
point but not so bright as to blind them, especially in the shade of
trees or tunnels etc.
I also added a centre brake light. I got one from a Suzuki Sidekick
(mini Jeep). I hung it off the chrome trunk bar. It always sits in
the shade from the trunk so it's very noticeable. It really stands
out when compared to the lower stock tail lights. I also wired this
with a switch on the dash so I can turn it on in fog, rain etc. or
when I'm getting tailgated. You would not believe how fast they back
off after they realize that you have noticed them there. I swear it
has worked every time I've used it. Wiring the headlight was fairly
easy; I can walk anybody through it that would like it done. ~Steve

Someone posted asking about a THIRD brake light> I purchased a 50
LED bar off E-bay from a fellow in United Kingdom, It's about an
inch wide 3/4 of an inch thick shaped sort'a like a wing (narrow
wing) comes
with two little stand offs. I put it on the trunk just above the
curvature. It looks real good and is real bright. About 14 inches
long, Of course I had to run the wires into and out the trunk. JC
Whitney sells a bar that some have affixed to the bar just under the
trunk about the same length. GOT behind a Chevy Suburban later model
also a Chevy Astro van has,>> looks like the same third brake light.
That might work on the Cade. I'm not sure about the mounting. You
might have to cut too big a hole to accept it's mounting; however
it's worth a closer look. My self, I like the 50 LED. It goes almost
all way across the trunk and it's definitely high enough for the
person behind you to see. ~Old COOT n Maryland

Let me try and make a friendly suggestion: If you have NEVER had
anything to do with a carb; Car, motorcycle truck. Lawn mower and
KNOW nothing about a carb and the BASICS of what it does and
are not capable of following the directions in the manual after
reading it and rereading it. try and stumble thru the directions of 
TAKING THEM OFF and take them to your local MC mechanic, for the
cleaning and rebuilding, a bad attempt at this will only cause
further problems>>>> Just removing them will save you a bunch in
    Not trying to be smart but some people are not capable of doing
this. DO NOT INTERCHANGE parts from one carb to the other. Just a
suggestion to the beginners: you have to remember what went where
HOW. It might not be a job to let sit idle OVERNIGHT. Every orifice
or jet has to be cleaned or at least air blown thru it. Pilots
should be removed and cleaned, and reinstalled that's the ones the
manual says "DO NOT remove". ~OLD COOT N Maryland

I'm a Cade owner and rider for about a year.  A wonderful and nimble
ride!!  When working on the bike, I use the side stand.  But I would
like to use the center stand once in a while. I have tried to put
the 820 lbs.
up but can't seem to haul it.  I've tried with friends but still no
go.  Any suggestions?  (I know I'm leaving myself open with this
question.  Go for the gold!!) ~Curt Rose

Let me tell you the trick to getting this beast on the center stand,
for I couldn't do it for the first year without a 1x6 under the rear
tire. The trick is to put the left passenger floorboard up so it's
out of the way. Swing the passenger armrest out of the way, if so
equipped. Then with your strongest leg, step on the center stand's
foot pedal on the left side and flip it backwards to extend it. Get
your foot positioned where you can put all your weight on it. Grab
the rubber coated rail next to the passenger seat with your right
hand and the handlebar with your left hand just to steady the bike.
Start pushing down till the center stand hits the ground. Bring the
bike up perfectly level where both the feet of the center stand are
touching the ground. Now, push down reeeaall hard AND pull up
reeeaall hard with the right hand. I found out that when I was just
pushing down without pulling up, I could not get it on the center
stand. But if you pull up as much as you push down, then it `pops'
right up.  ~Brian in IN

There are over 800 of us now that ride the best touring motorcycle
made, and one of the heaviest, can be one of the most difficult to
operate in slow moving traffic. We constantly discuss the repairs
and maintenance of the bike and never share our close calls or some
of our riding practices/experiences. Some of us have been fortunate
enough to attend the many rider safety courses, offered by the
different agencies. Some of us have ridden for year's accident free,
close call free. Some of us have NOT ridden for years and have re-
entered the, motorcycle riding world. This is not to imply that ALL
accidents are avoidable or that you DON'T, know how to ride.

I had the opportunity to attend the advanced rider course offered by
the US Army and Navy. Yes it was mandatory in order to register and
operate my motorcycle on the base>> other wise I probably wouldn't
have attended as I to KNEW how to RIDE.
    Some of the training I received was common knowledge, and some
of it was every day riding habits we get ourselves into, and just
become complacent, about practicing. With the Upcoming events and
Riding season upon us we need to also clean up our riding
practices/habits. I have had auto drivers ask me why when riding in
the fast lane do I/we ride next to the center line, why when in
traffic I/we ride off-set from the vehicle in front of us. Why do we
sometimes accelerate off from a stop light, not actually racing?
    As we start our new riding season lets try and make it a safe
one, and remember it's up to you as a motorcyclist to BE SEEN, there
are Many drivers that JUST DON'T LOOK FOR US. Have a safe and happy
riding experience this season. But also remember to CHECK DEM OIL
LEVELS. ~OLD COOT n Maryland

I'm replacing the O-Ring on my hydraulic clutch cylinder on the
secondary gear case and I'm a bit befuddled. I have the factory
service manual (I'm at page Shaft Drive 4-4) It says that after I
take the five screws off the gear case should basically come right
off. I'm having trouble making that happen. The manual writes itself
as the gear case will just pop out, but something is wrong, please
ADVICE needed. ~Mike

Mike, The driveshaft has to be pulled from the secondary. You need
to unbolt the final from the swing arm and roll the wheel/final back
a bit until you can get the driveshaft pulled back far enough to
dislodge it from the secondary drive gear.

Take out the right side muffler hanger bolt. Take out the rear axle;
take the lower end of the left shock off its mount on the final.
Roll the wheel back with the final attached until either the
driveshaft comes free from the secondary or it comes out of the

When you reinstall the secondary, make sure you pull the drive gear
housing off of the drive and install it after you have the drive
onto the motor. That way you won't mess up the seal when it goes
onto the main shaft. You will need to replace the motor to secondary
seal and gasket at a minimum. And, replacing the output seal and
other exposed seals should also be on the list. ~Tracy

I got something else I noticed today that is a little strange.  I
was riding home from school and I noticed that when I pulled the
clutch in, the radio got louder.  This also happened with the front
brake lever.  Now the auto volume control was not on.  When I got
home, I shut the bike off for a moment in order to open the gate and
garage, and the bike had a hard time to start, like the bike had no
power.  I checked the volts on the battery and it said 12.2.  Now,
before I took the bike out the battery was fully charged.  Could
there be something that I do not know draining the battery?  I did
add two things that would affect the battery, a rear mud flap with
lights, and a solar charger.  Could these be the case of my
troubles?  ~Sean from Michigan

Sean, The problem with the clutch switch ALC is because you have a
bad diode in the harness. Maybe JT will interject as to where in the
harness he found the offending one. You need to check the system
voltage with it running. If you hold it above 2K RPM and it won't
show 13.5 volts + at the battery, you have a problem. Stator, reg,
connections, ground connector etc. ~Tracy

<< I bought a new $17 switch for this little part- could of  fabbed
one from a pen and a small bolt {Is Tracy wincing as he reads this?}

Actually, no. But, you could have spent $16.25 with me and would
have gotten rid of the entire sliding contact assembly and be rid
off all maintenance of that switch. The same hydraulic switch also
works for the clutch.

<< Next step I will find the relay that controls this, eh?>>

If it's an `86, it doesn't have any relays in the safety circuit. I
think they started using a pair of relays in `87 to kill the motor
if you tried to take off with the side stand down. However, that
circuit on the 86's goes to a number of places. You need to check
the wiring diagram to see where all it goes.

<< And I will re-install my air box, --just so Tracy will stop
having these "apoplectic fits"  --I need him a lot more than he
needs me.>>

Leave it off and try it. Maybe I'm wrong. Yeah, like that would ever
happen. HA!

<< I found the seat air hoses are disconnected, a  important looking
relay semi-attached with Velcro, a paper serial number
punched "label"(also semi-attached)>>

Must be an add-on. No Velcro from factory that I'm aware of.

<< (4) 2-connector wires that are disconnected. (look like stereo
speaker wires? they have red and green marker tape on them) I could
hook them together, but> I don't think is that is the intended

Might be for rear speakers if it's an LXE.

<< Seat heaters? No, just wishful thinking-wires are not heavy

Might be add-on for electric vests.

<< Seat sensor for safety? --like my riding lawnmower? 


<< Bike already has shifter switch, clutch switch...>>

I don't think they used one.

<< I have lots of extra connectors in the battery-side fairing as
well --some with rubber caps. For extra options? (IE MORE lights?
CB? Seat massager?)>>

Those rubber caps are diodes. Leave them be.

<< I admit I am lazy-- I wish someone would just say "Cruise shut-
off is blue wire off of cruise box, re-wire this to clutch switch
and brake lights to restore cruise operation.">>

The wiring diagram has all of the wire colors. Since the history of
your bike is unknown to us, it is hard to guess what the prior owner
(s) did. ~Tracy

Tracy, I have no idea how old the coolant is in my Cade. Is there
any way to tell if it's still good, or should I just dump it and
replace it with some new distilled water and Prestone in a 50/50
mix? ~unsigned

Changing coolant requires that you drain it, fill with water, run it
until it fully circulates, cool it, drain it, fill with water, run
until fully circulates, cool it, drain it then fill the radiator
with 100% antifreeze preferably of the low-silicate or no silicate
formula. You can only get 1/2 of the coolant out of the system
through the drain plug so you have to fill and circulate several
times to water down what's in there and then when you fill you
CANNOT premix what you put into the radiator since 1/2 of the water
is still in it even after you drain it. You can only use premix
after you've put in around 2 quarts of 100% antifreeze or in the
overflow tanks. ~Tracy

Finally got enough systems working correctly to go for a long ride.
(The last long ride left me stranded on a mountain top with a failed
charging system), and I took a friend along for good luck. No break
downs but the bike developed this desire to pull to the right and I
was constantly adjusting to the left.  Not a big thing but
irritating.  The back tire is quite worn and might be the cause.

Helpful thoughts? ~ OBTW I was entering the freeway the other
evening when this jazzed up Mustang decided he wanted my share of
the on ramp trying to pass me in a single lane.  The young man
driving was quite surprised to see a grey haired old guy on this old
bike out accelerate him up the ramp (old self preservation
technique, throttle before brakes).  It was most gratifying to see
the police officer who was following us up the ramp pull him over as
we entered the freeway! ~Vaughn in AZ '87

I need some help with my clutch. I had no problem shifting when I
put it up for the winter. I took a few short runs when I could and
put it on the road full time 4/4 still no problem with shifting. As
of 4/6 will not down shift to first, unless I rev to about 4 grand,
then will down shift, Works fine 5th to 4th, some times have to rev
for 4th to 3rd & 3rd to 2nd. Checked clutch fluid, OK, Bleed line,
OK, Still won't down shift to 1st. Must I take the clutch out to
have a look or am I missing something? ~Jim K

I don't have a direct answer, but maybe some of this will help. The
clutch release system is basically 2 hydraulic cylinders mounted at
opposite ends of a connecting hose. When you push one cylinder in
(the master cylinder) it pushes the other one out (the slave
cylinder) and vice-versa when you release the lever.
If your clutch isn't releasing fully and there are no leaks, then
the upper cylinder may be leaking back internally or you may have a
hose swelling. The hose swell is unlikely but I have heard of one
case of that. Also, if it's been awhile since you changed out the
fluid (ALL OF IT), then you may have moisture in the slave that is
heating and turning into steam and your clutch won't work worth a
crap when that happens.

If anybody out there is reading this and, if you haven't changed the
fluids in the clutch and brakes in the last 2 years, or you don't
know the age of the fluid in those systems, CHANGE IT NOW before
someone gets hurt. Clean all of the fluid out of each master
cylinder and wipe it out well. Refill with DOT 4 fluid and bleed it
until you get pretty clean fluid at the calipers/slave cylinder. On
the rear brake make sure to bleed both sides.

Also, you didn't mention whether the release problem continued at
idle. If the release is the problem, then when you come to a stop
you should have to hold the bike back some. If not, then you may
have something else going on. Did you lubricate the shifter and all
of the pivot points of the linkage and where it passes through the
secondary drive housing? A little oil will do wonders there. And,
don't forget to lube the REAR BRAKE LINKAGE as it has been the cause
of several rear brake fires. Use just some oil or grease. WD-40 is
NOT a lubricant. ~Tracy

Note: We are still playing catch-up with this issue. Some of these
Cavalcades may have been sold by now. Check with the seller to be
sure. ~Editor
Niantic, CT
Could you please add my Cade to your "Cades For Sale?"
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to ride it for a while, and won't
be for the foreseeable future. It was manufactured 3/87 (on the
frame), and is an LX. It is blue on blue with 24797 miles.
It is in generally good condition with a very strong motor. I have
to fix a few things - like finish replacing the windshield after
some crap in my shed fell on it. It will be receiving a new
Slipstream. I am asking $4,600 and it is located in Niantic, CT. I
can send pictures later (after the work is complete). I may be
reached via email, or on my cell phone at 860.227.7841. ~Ira M.
Turner, Email: 

A blue `86 LXE with 55,000 miles and is located in Massachusetts.
I'm asking $3500. These are the extras that it has:

Precision Plastics Lexan windshield -     (original cut down
windshield also included) ~ Baker air wings - w/uppers ~ Datel
voltmeter ~ 12v DC outlet ~ luggage rack ~ SuperBrace ~ front and
rear mud flaps ~ Tracy's plug installed along with new clutch slave
cylinder ~ Tracy's clutch and brake switches installed
stainless steel banjo bolts on compressor ~ front tire is new and
rear tire is good.

There are a couple of cosmetic blemishes.  The clear part of the map
case is cracked in the lower third of it.  The chrome hinge for the
little door on top of the right saddlebag is cracked, but it still
works.  There was a small tear in the seat about the size of a
quarter that was sealed with a vinyl repair kit, but you can still
see where it was.  The bike comes with the soft sided saddlebag and
trunk liners, owner's manual, toolkit, and hardcopy service manual. 
The front speakers were replaced with new ones 2 years ago and the
radio buttons were replaced.  I may be able to assist with delivery
of the bike, depending on where you are located.  Please contact me
if you would like any pictures. ~Dave May, Email: 

1986 LXE Blue on Blue with 7,100 miles on it. All fluids have been
changed. Carbs have been rebuilt and synced forks rebuilt and triple
tree bearings lubed and re-torqued. It has a new battery and
Slipstreamer windshield. It runs out great with very good power.
Mechanically it's a 10. The paint and body are about a 7 out of 10.
Have pictures to email, if interested.  or call 608-
575-9802. For pictures, email  and he will send
them to you. $3500.00 ~Jerry

Westbrook, Maine
1986 Cavalcade LX tan and brown with all of the LXE extras except
the air ride for the driver. I have owned this bike since 1/88 with
6100 miles. This bike now has 74,000 on the clock w/30,000 on the
motor. It has rotor covers, caliper covers, fork lights, chrome
lower fork tubes, extended lowers with case guards and cornering
lights, LXE map cover and cassette/coin holder, drivers floorboards
w/heel toe shifter, drivers backrest, passenger armrests, LXE
backrest with headrest and speakers, trunk rack, Suzuki CB radio and
upper/ lower light bars with strip lights. This bike has been driven
by my wife for 3 years but has set idle in my garage for 2-3 years.
The tires have been replaced about 1000 miles age along with the
front and rear brake pads. There is also a parts bike that is
available to be sold with it. I am open to serious offers. The bike
is located in Westbrook, Maine. It is in storage at the present
time. Jeff Watts, Email: 

Burlington, Iowa
1986 GT Cade for sale. This a very low mile bike (23,000 miles),
every thing works, runs really good, never been wrecked, never been
rained on. It's always been in the garage when not being ridden.
Have the "Plug" and seal set, but not installed. Tires new about
2,000 miles back, Has lot of extra chrome and lights. The finish is
as new except for a couple of small scratches. It has been in the
family from new with a clear title. Bike is getting a little big for
my age (70 on the next birthday), plan on getting smaller bike as I
don't do much long distant riding. There is a photo at  It is
the maroon-on-maroon on the first page with bikes. I have offered it
in the past for $3500. But will take the first $3000 cash.
Burlington, Iowa is in the southeast corner of state of Iowa on the
Mississippi river. My phone is 319-752-0942 ~Rolland Meismer

Scottsburg, Indiana
For Sale: 86' LX Cade two tone brown (harvest gold) good tire and
runs good. 30K $3000. For more info e-mail: .

Cleveland, Ohio
I have an `86 LX for sale for my brother n law with just over 50,000
miles.  Repainted 2 years ago, has non stock exhaust pipes "sounds
like a Harley" Everything works and no problems with the bike.  He
had shoulder surgery last month and the bike is too top heavy for
him to control now. He has owned this bike for over seven years.
Anyone interested email me for more pictures.  The only flaw is on
the trunk lid there is a small blister in the paint and the seat
needs recovered.  Radio works fine no need to replace switches and
bike does not use nor lose one drop of oil. He is asking $3700.00 or
best offer. I tried to add an attachment but the mail never got
delivered if someone has an interest I have the pictures to send let
me know. The bike is painted blue and white. Great running and
looking bike ~Randy, 

Somewhere in Texas?
I have a 1986 SLC with 58000 miles and I was asking $2800 obo. It
runs great and everything works. All it needs is to have the shocks
rebuilt. It has been sitting for 3 years. If you have any questions
you can call me at 480-593-3287 or e-mail me at 
~Dean Richardson

Fergus, SW Ontario
I am selling my two tone brown 86LX. I just don't ride it enough to
justify keeping it. It is in good condition with 77000kms on the
clock, a mere baby for the cavalcade! It is stock apart from the
after market horns which make people know you are around! I have
never had a bit of trouble with it, it never misses a beat. Oil
changed regularly and secondary checked with the dipstick regularly,
no leaks. Good tyres 491s Comes with full printed workshop manual,
the Tracy CD, original tool kit and owners manual and the original
cover. The bike is located in Fergus, SW Ontario about one hour from
Toronto. I am asking $4000 Canadian firm email me at  for more information or pictures or call me at 519
843 2051 ~Dave

Salem, New York
While on a road trip yesterday afternoon, I saw a Cavalcade for
sale. ~ Particulars: It is an '86.  The fairing upper looks
original, but the bottoms are "custom made".  The side bags are
aftermarket.  The trunk is original.  The owner has modified the
passenger back rest a bit.  The seat is not original.  It has a new
battery, the tires look good, and the odometer is reading about
27,000 miles. The radio is gone - the seller has put in an
aftermarket unit. The seller started it up for me, and it fired
right away, and sounded good.

Seller is Larry Snow, 293 Main Street, Salem, New York.  Previous is
owner Ray Green, of Salem.  Phone
number is (518-854-7182).  Asking price is $2,000.

Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

Copyright 2000-2013  All rights reserved