June, 2004
Here is the June 2004 issue of the Cavalcade Owner's monthly
THIS NEWSLETTER, send me an e-mail with the subject field phrase "No
Future Issues". My e-mail address is
CADE RAID 2004 ~ BRANSON, MISSOURI ~ August 16-21, 2004
Time to Register for Cade Raid 2004. If you want to be sure to
receive your Cade Raid 2004 tee-shirt, pin and cup we need to
receive your registration form by July 16th. This is also the date
we need to confirm our attendance at the various entertainment
events in order to get our group rate. So, please get your
registration in the mail right away. Those of us who need to plan
all the details for CR04 Thank You.
If you need a registration form, email and we
will email or snail mail it to you. Remember, we have arranged some
outstanding entertainment packages to take advantage of the world-
class shows available in Branson. The $50 registration fee for rider
and bike and $25 for a passenger covers the expenses for holding
this event, including the Monday evening pizza party. Also included
are a tee-shirt, event pin and coffee mug.
Buy, sell or trade at the Cavalcade Store. We will have a room in
the hotel transformed into a store for Cavalcade related items. If
you have items you would like to feature in the "store," contact our
store organizer, Gary Bracken. Gary's email address is Be sure to stop in a browse a bit while
you are in Branson.
Our home base will be the Grand Plaza Hotel. We have a special group
rate of just $55.00 per night for up to 4 people in a room. And if
you want to come early or stay longer you can reserve nights before
and after Cade Raid 2004 at the same rate. 
1-800-850-6646. For you campers, contact "America's Best Campground"
499 Buena Vista Road, Branson, MO 65616 (417) 336-4399. Their web
site is: 
If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event of
interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group,
send the information to  and it will be posted
in the next issue of this newsletter.
It looks my pending arrival in Branson has created a little
interest. Thanks for the offer Ed some companionship for the ride
from TN to Branson would be great. Just for interest, there are two
other Cades
further south than the 4 in Christchurch. Both about 300 miles
farther south in the Otago district. None of these will be coming.. 
I would have liked to have purchased a Cade for my trip but the
budget wouldn't go that far. At least I will be on a Suzuki. It may
look a little strange with a whole bunch of Cades and 1 little `ol
GS700 tagging on behind LOL.
I will be looking for riding companions for my trip out of Branson.
It is my intention to head north via Indiana then past Chicago to
Harley country. Then on to Canada across the top and back down to
the states at Niagara from there time will determine my direction.
Maine and back down the coast to NJ is a possibility. ~Murray

Yesterday at a Harley show I saw an after market accessory that was
really nice and adds to your comfort. It is a leather pouch that
attaches to the saddle bag rails. The pouch has 2 compartments, the
first is for small items and the other is for a water bottle. When
on the bike the water bottle is in handy reach of the driver or
passenger. No more need to stop as often. You can order them for the
bike shop you use, just have to hunt through the luggage items
section of the catalog. Best to you all, ~Jerry
I want to put a CD changer on the bike anyone have any ideas of what
be and works best and how and where to put it. I always get great
advice here. ~Steve `86 LXE
Steve, I mounted mine (Alpine 6-CD Changer) in the trunk. I mounted
it in the center of the trunk against the passenger's backrest
vertically. All of the power and cabling can then exit out of the
trunk on the left side of the bike. I wired my power into the trunks
connection on the right side of the trunk (as observed from standing
at the rear of the motorcycle) and haven't had any trouble. I opted
to mount the CD-changer in the trunk because there would be too much
to disconnect if I placed it in the saddle bags. The added bonus, I
can still place my helmet (full face) in the trunk along with the
rest of my leather riding clothes. Hope this helps. ~ Micky
Hi, do you have any skip with it? Did you mount it on the bottom of
trunk or on the lid? ~
With all this talk of CD changers and the like, I will offer up an
opinion. I bought a portable MP3 player (about $40) with 40 seconds
of skip protection. You can get about umpteen hours of music on a
regular CD in MP3 format. I can carry 10 MP3 CDs and have about 60
hours worth of music. It would take 40 or more CDs to do the same
thing. MP3s can be written with any CDR drive and you can have
directories for different music genres. Personally, I would rather
carry 1/4 the CDs. The sound quality between the formats is
indeterminable considering the exterior noise when riding. ~Tracy
We (Belgians) are new here and new Cade owners, we're planning to
built a Flexit sidecar on it, will be super. But I'm writing to ask
about the intercom system. We have a Cade LX on the radio we see an
intercom switch, there are no cables for headsets and we don't see
any other switches. We wonder if there would really be an intercom
on board, how can we know. Is it perhaps only a function of the
radio to go through the intercom system??

Does anyone have problems with the front suspension being too weak?
We could put stronger rubbers in the fork but if that changes the
length it won't be good for the alignment of the sidecar? ~Els &

Hey guys have to ask again.  Where do I go to get the Cables to Wire
my Cade to have the intercom work.  I have no wiring coming out of
the radio. I don't have the helmet mics or anything. I need to know
where I can buy the cables to hook to the radio and to plug the mics
in for the helmets. ~Darryl

Does anybody have a source where I might find a full face helmet
that would be at the XXXL size range? I can't seem to find one large
enough to be comfortable. ~Mark

I've got a big head also and found that the HJC Symax in XXL fit me
nicely. They also have it in a XXXL. ~Tracy

I've got an occasional spitting in the carbs. It's worse when it's
cold and almost disappears when it's warmed up.   Carbs need
sync.???   I looked on my Cade CD about sync. And the pictures are a
little poor as to where to get the vacuum hooked up and what to use.
Can you use just a regular vacuum gauge? ~arkycade

Arkycade, First thing to do is the easiest thing. Get ya some Marvel
Mystery Oil and add it to a tank of fuel and just ride. Might need
to do a second tank, but that will take care of a lot of it. And the
nice thing is instead of working on it, you get to ride it while it
fixes itself. ~Brian in IN

Sync? Maybe. Dirty carbs? Maybe. Sync connects to sides of intake
manifolds cast into heads. Phillips head screw plugs them. You will
need 4 gauges or a 4 tube manometer (mercury). ~Tracy

When added to the gas, yes it cleans the carbs, or actually the
whole path that the fuel takes. Stuff is wonderful. ~Brian

It's good to add a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas only, not
the crankcase. Put motor oil only in the crankcase. ~Spike


I've had numerous conversations with Caders lately that had to do
with rear wheel lockups and I wanted to remind everyone about the
issue, especially new owner/members.

If you have just purchased or otherwise acquired a Cade, please,
find out where the secondary drive is and CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL in
it. In the past couple of weeks, I have had calls from Caders that
bought bikes from other owners and then had a lockup shortly
thereafter. Do not assume that the prior owner knew anything about
the bike or that the drive and that the fluid (90W) level was ever
checked or that the fluid was ever changed. Even bike shops that are
SUPPOSED to do these checks are many times not experienced enough
with the Cade to know that the drive exists or they simply fill the
box up and don't bother to tell the owner that it took 8 ounces of
90W to fill a box that only holds about 11 ounces to begin with. If
a box had gotten that low then there is a problem that needs to be

Never assume that the shop knows more than you. Always ask whether
they have a service manual for the Cade and if they don't, make sure
they get one before they touch your bike. This is important. Of the
last 2 calls I got about lockups, one happened at 70 MPH and the
other happened at 95 MPH. In the latter case, the force was so great
that it sheared teeth off of the secondary gears. I have never seen
that type of damage and I've rebuilt 3 or so of these boxes that had
seized up and the gears were fine even though the bearings had
welded themselves together due to heat due to loss of lubricant.

Even if you've taken the time to replace the factory plug with my
machined plug or something else, it is critically important that the
fluid level in that box be checked often. There are still seals that
can fail causing the box to drain or it to fill with motor oil so
the level needs to be checked to ensure that it has the right amount
of lube in it and of the right kind (motor oil really isn't designed
for the shear forces of hypoid gear applications).

If you don't have a dipstick to check it through the fill hole then
make one (see 
for instructions) or I have them made from stainless steel for $3
($2 if you buy with something else). We know it takes 1500-2000
miles to empty a box to a dangerous level so check it every 500
miles or less. With a dipstick, it takes less than a minute. If you
can take the time to put it on the center stand to check the engine
oil level then you can check the secondary level at the same time.
Just because the drive doesn't have a see-through window doesn't
mean it's not important.

Whether you decide to replace the factory plug that causes most of
the fluid loss or not really isn't the issue. The issue is checking
the level often enough to make sure that the lube is in there. I've
gone through my secondary and installed my plug and new seals but
yet I check the fluid level probably every 200-400 miles. The last
thing I want to think about while I'm tooling down the road at 80
MPH with cars and trucks all around me is whether there's enough 90W
in my secondary drive. I always know there is.

If you haven't read the article on the secondary drive and the
driveshaft, please take a few minutes to do so. It's at  Also, if you
want to check for the presence of the stock or replacement plug read
the instructions here  .

If you want to read the instructions for the replacement plug go
here  .

I'm not writing this to sell more plugs; I do enough of that without
the need to advertise. But, everyone needs to be aware of the
secondary drive and how to maintain it. The driveshaft is also
covered in the article and while it's a fairly small risk when
compared to the lube loss issue, it can also be a problem. Whether
you do your own work or not, these important items need to be
checked out before you take your fat and happy ass out on a high
speed run to check out your new bike. If you don't, your F&H ass
might end up in the hospital or worse.

This is not intended to scare anyone. It is intended to educate
everyone about the bike and to ensure that each and every Cade owner
has a safe and un-eventful trip each and every time they climb on
it. ~Tracy

Tracy, I need some help with the suspension on the Cade. I think
that the rear unit's seals are defunct.  When I hit the auto
leveling button the suspension pumps up and then when the pump stops
the suspension goes down again. Also, I want to keep the Cade
standard so is there a seals kit for the units or do I have to buy
new ones? ~Dave

Dave, If the bike goes way down, you may have a problem with a seal
or the solenoid valve or a leak somewhere else. However, it will
pump up slightly past the point at which is "level" and then drop
back down slightly. That's normal.

If your seals are leaking, you should have quite a mess of oil in/on
the shock boots (unless the oil has all leaked out already). They
are not rebuildable in any normal fashion. There are seals available
from any auto parts store (at least over here) but the stock method
of retaining those seals doesn't lend itself to replacement.
However, with some careful lathe work you can get the old seals out
and then with some careful work with a die grinder and a thin
abrasive disc, you could form a slot for a wire retainer (like the
fork seals) to hold in some new seals.

The big problem is the damping. The damping (especially rebound)
goes out because of a bushing that wears in the shock portion of the
shock. And, again, it isn't made to be replaced. It could be with
some hand work and the fabrication of a new bushing but at the end
of all that you would still have the same single orifice damping of
the stock setup. I looked at rebuilding them but haven't pursued it
because of that.

If you have to replace the shocks, OEM are huge $$$$$$$$ new and
most guys go with Progressive since the units are cheaper, better
and completely rebuidable. ~ Tracy

Tracy, In this article it states 10W40 as the weight to use. Since I
am in Ohio and don't get time to ride unless it is the weekend and
usual hot, do you recommend a 50 weight to help with the heat or is
the 40 weight good enough.  I have currently about 65k on the
engine. ~Brandon

Brandon, 10W40 is what the factory recommends for the Cade motor.
And, I ride in 100+ degree heat all the time during the summer
months in Kansas. Unless you find that viscosity of the 10W40 isn't
high enough to prevent clattering when it gets to the upper end of
ambient/motor temp, there's no reason to go with a higher viscosity.

When I apply the brakes the stop light symbol on the display lights
up. Any suggestions on where to look for the cause and cure? The
brake light works. ~Mark

Check the connectors at the saddlebags. If they get a little dirty
the monitor sees less amperage draw and lights the indicator. ~Tracy


Since we seem to be seeing a lot of charging system questions, I
thought I would send out a little primer on the system.

The charging system on the Cade is like that installed on a huge
majority of bikes. It's very simple having just 3 components and
only 2 of those are subject to failure; the stator and the
regulator/rectifier (or RR). The third component is the rotor but
unless the field magnets magically lost their magnetism or somehow
exited the assembly (virtually impossible on both counts) then the
rotor isn't subject to failure or replacement.

The stator is located in the LEFT side engine cover (left when
sitting on the bike facing forward). The failure of a stator is
typically through shorting of the windings to each other or to the
stator stack (the stack of thin plates that are riveted together to
provide the poles on which the windings are wound). In either case,
some or much of the power being generated by the movement of the
magnets past the poles will be drained off by the short.

According to Spikes statistics, a stator should last about 40K
miles. However, that is a mean value. Actual life is due to a number
of factors but some stators last much longer and a few don't last
quite that long. The reason the windings short out is due to heat.
The insulation on the stator windings is basically like a thick
coating of paint not like the plastic insulation found on ordinary
wire. Because they have to pack as much wire into such a small space
to realize a suitable power output, this enamel insulation has to be
thin and is only going to last so long. The cooler you keep it the
longer is should last. However, since the cooling is by the engine
oil and since we really can't modify how much oil spray gets onto
the windings; we have to accept that the windings will fail
eventually. That's just one of the drawbacks of a permanent magnent,
shunted system. I'll explain the shunted part in a minute.

Of the numerous stators that I've looked at, the typical failure is
in the upper quadrant. It appears that's where there's the least
amount of oil spray to the windings and that area runs hotter and
the insulation cooks faster. Since this is a shunted type system,
the windings are under constant stress.

In a permanent magnet system the field is created by permanent
magnets mounted inside the rotor which is spinning at crankshaft
speed. As each magnet's north and south poles pass over each stator
pole electrical power is generated in the form of AC (electrical
power being defined loosely by the movement of electrons in the
windings). The windings on the stator are connected in such a way
that 3 separate phases of AC are generated. The no load output of
the stator with the motor spinning at 5K RPM is around 100 volts
even though some high output stators are would differently and can
put out 200 no-load volts. Obviously, this is way more voltage than
what we need and we need to convert it to DC so that we can use it
to power the bike and acc and to keep the starting battery charged.
That's where the RR comes in.

The RR is mounted behind the tachometer (in front of it) and is
attached to the fairing frame. Is serves the function of both
rectifying the AC from the stator into usable DC and it also shunts
the excess power to ground to keep the voltage within a range that
will power the bike and acc and also keep the battery fully charged.
Under normal circumstances, the RR will keep about 14-14.5 volts on
the system. Even if the battery is fully charged, it should maintain
that voltage. However, when idling or when the demand is greater
that the output of the stator, that voltage can fall and under other
conditions it can also go up.

If you don't have any extra lights on and you can't read 14 volts at
the battery with the motor spinning at 3K or so, then either the
stator or the RR or both will probably need to be replaced. I say
probably because there is one important thing that needs to be
checked before committing either component to replacement.

There is a connector in the battery compartment through which the RR
Sendai's its extra current to the ground side of the system. That
connector in some (possibly many) cases will become corroded, loose
or whatever and the RR can't shunt the extra power to ground
properly so the RR will see much more heat than what it was designed
to and is destined to fail if the connector is not repaired.
Actually, the connector isn't even needed since it is only there for
the original assembly of the bike. If you check it and it looks
fine, good. Just make sure it's clean and tight and it won't hurt to
use some dielectric grease on it to prevent future corrosion.
Dielectric grease is available at any auto parts store and is also
listed as bulb grease. It is generally silicone based and has a very
high viscosity and won't melt and run out of the connector like
ordinary dino grease or Vaseline. Silicones have extremely high melt
temperatures and those sold as electrical grease (dielectric) are
made especially for electric applications. A tube will cost $2-3 and
is enough to do about every connection on the bike. In fact, every
time you have to take a connection apart, it's a good idea to make
sure it's clean and grease it to prevent future problems.

The connector in question can be seen at 

If the connector looks good, then you can proceed to checking the
stator output. BTW, I'm assuming that the battery in the bike is
good and doesn't have an internal short or something else wrong with
it. If you aren't sure, have it load checked. Most places that sell
batteries can also test them. If the connector is melted or has
other obvious signs of high resistance through it, it should be cut
out and the wires soldered together. If you repaired the connector
recheck the system voltage with the motor running at 3K or so and if
it still won't come up to 14 volts, then checking the stator is next.

Unfortunately, the only way to check the stator is with the stator
leads unplugged from the RR. Those connections (also shown at ) are located
just to the left of the headlight (sitting on bike facing forward)
and will most likely require the removal of the right upper fairing
to access. If you have child-size hands, you might be able to reach
them through the right speaker hole. You have to unplug them so that
the no-load voltage output can be checked. The stator wires are
generally yellow but could be another color is the stator had been
replaced prior with a rewind. You would then just look for the
yellow wires coming from the RR and unplug the 3 large plastic
connectors. There are 3 small bullet type connectors that tie the
stator leads to the noise suppressor that hangs on the right side of
the headlight but those do not need to be unplugged to test the

With all 3 stator leads unplugged from the RR and with an AC
voltmeter set to read a least 100 VAC, test each pair of stator
leads while running the motor up to 5K RPM. By each pair I mean 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 1 and 3. Each pair should produce at least 90 VAC at
5K rpm. If you get something less than that on one or more pairs,
then the stator must be replaced. Fortunately, stators are easily
rewound with new wire since the stator stack is reusable over and
over. Several competent re-winders are listed at  . Rewound stators
run about $125-$140 and there are even new stators available from
Rick's for a little more money. New isn't better, Rick's was running
out of cores and since the Cade and the FI Gold Wing share the same
stator stack, Rick's had tooling made to produce new stacks. If you
get a rewind, you are normally required to send in your old stator
as a core.

If the stator checks good (90 VAC + on each pair of 3 legs at 5K
RPM), then the only thing left is the RR. New ones are available
from several sources at the same address as above and will run about
$120-$140. Just a note, the Electrex RR will not come with the
factory style plugs for the stator connections and you'll have to
reuse your old ones and connect them on the new reg. Also, it won't
use the orange wire. That wire was used to sense system voltage and
the new regulators do that internally. The one from Rick's comes
with the factory connectors all around. It's been expressed that if
you want an Electrex, you will probably get better service out of
Dennis Kirk than buying it direct from Electrex.

If the stator checks bad then, obviously, you'll have to replace it
but the RR may also be bad. There is check procedure in the service
manual using an ohm meter. If you don't have a manual, send me an e-
mail at  and I'll send you that page out of the manual.

That's about it. It's simple as pie. Please note, though, that the
stator may check good but may still be on its way south. If you have
40K or more miles and you want to be sure that it won't die on you
in the worst possible place, then you will have to remove the left
side engine case and look at it. Even though there's no steadfast
way to tell whether it's going to fail in the next few miles, if it
looks like a crispy critter then a replacement is probably not a bad
idea. ~Tracy

With the temps getting warmer, I've had several questions regarding
the fan operation and cooling so I will address them to the group in
the event that others have similar concerns.

Depending on the model year and whether your Cade is an early '86,
the fan op will vary slightly. While all Cades share the same
thermostat temp (195 F), it seems that the early '86 models with
the smaller lower fairing vents may tend to run the fan a little
more often due to decreased airflow. This isn't really a big concern
because the fan temp switch will bring the fan on when the coolant
temp reaches 221 F.

When tooling along at road speed the fan may never come on. But when
in traffic expect the fan to run. Even when the outside temp isn't
terribly high, the fan may come on from time to time in traffic.
Some of the temp gauges aren't terribly accurate (not that there's
any numbers on them anyway) and some of you may have a gauge that
reads higher than the service manual indicates. This can be a little
un-nerving especially if it gets too close to the red before the fan
kicks on. If yours is like that, you can change out the switch or
simply test the switch operation but I think the overwhelming
failure of the fan switch (among those that have had a failure which
isn't too many) is that it will fail to operate all together and the
fan will never come on so I wouldn't be too quick to change out the
switch if it's operating.

Some have chosen to install an extra manual switch in parallel with
the fan switch. While this provides some piece of mind and allows
manual control of the fan, it really isn't needed unless your fan
switch fails. I was concerned about the op temp of my bike and
installed such a switch. However, after testing the gauge and
finding that it reads about 20 or so high, my concerns were more
being driven by the gauge and not the actual temperature. There is a
test procedure in the manual that uses several resistors to test the
gauge readings.

If the age of the coolant is unknown or it's more than 4 or 5 years
old, it wouldn't hurt to change it out. Since the Cade system is
pretty much all aluminum corrosion isn't as much of a problem as it
is in cast iron blocked car motors (yeah, like there's any of those
around any more) but the corrosion package in most green antifreeze
formulations is gone after about 2 years. What you choose to replace
it with is up to each individual but big S recommends a silicate
free (or low silicate) antifreeze. Unfortunately, most green
formulations have to use silicates as part of the corrosion package
so they really aren't the best choice. The extended life versions
(usually orange in color) use a completely different corrosion
package that has no silicates. The difference in silicates versus
non-silicate really boils down to water pump seal life. Silicates
are like little rocks floating around in the coolant and those can
wear on the water pump seal. I use extended life Dexcool compatible
in everything that I change the coolant in (Prestone and Zerex have
Dexcool versions).

Changing coolant is a multi-step process since you can only drain
about 1/2 the water out of the system through the drain plug
(located under the hose connection on the right side of the motor).
I've found that you need to drain, fill with clean water, run until
fully circulating then for an additional 10 minutes, let cool and
then repeat that 2 more times. By the time you get to the last
drain, the water draining out should be pretty clear with little
remnants of the prior coolant. Then fill the radiator with 100%
antifreeze. This will give you right about 50/50 mix since half of
the water is still in the motor after draining. If you put in
premixed coolant, your freeze/boil protection will not be
sufficient. Remember, antifreeze not only works when it gets cold
but also when it gets hot.

Just to make sure there's no confusion, this process requires that
the left lower fairing be removed to access the radiator cap. You
cannot change out coolant using the overflow tanks to fill with.

While you're putting in the new antifreeze, put in 2 ounces of
Barsleak. The liquidy kind is preferred (with or without pellets)
but if you use the powdered kind, don't use the whole tube as that's
enough for a much larger system. Read on the container and adjust
the amount based on the 1 gallon capacity of the Cade.

Also, you should drain the overflow tanks of the old coolant. This
won't happen on it's own with the radiator cap off since the lower
tank is actually lower than the radiator connection. You will need
to remove the overflow hose from the radiator and drop it down low
enough to get it to drain. When done, reconnect the hose and then
fill the overflow tanks to the proper level with 50/50 mixed
coolant. ~Tracy

I am the second owner of this low mileage gold beauty. New [last
week] Avon venom X tires, recent brakes, new regulator/regulator
installed, voltmeter installed. Everything works. No loss of oil
from the secondary drive.  The original owner said that the "plug
and seal kit" has been done. This Cade looks like it's never been in
the rain. 34,000 easy miles. Runs and rides like new! It comes with
factory backrest. Must sell to purchase equipment for my business.
$3500.00 VERY FIRM. Call Doug days at 904-669-3116 or E-mail me
directly at 

Chicagoland, Illinois

My 86 GTG is still up for sale, but on my last post I think I left a
couple details out, let me fill you all in on what I might have left
out: $2,000 OBO. Have pictures on request. It is an 86 GTG with
30,000 miles. It is grey metallic with silver-ish in color, it has a
radio antenna and wire connection, also has the stock speakers and
wire connectors. It has a cracked plastic map holder on the left
side of the bike (if you're sitting in it) and some chipped paint on
the right side saddle bag. Other than that it's pretty clean.

The engine runs great once the battery is fully charged or replaced,
no kicks or stalls or clicking or anything. With that in mind I just
replaced all of the oil seals in the secondary drive and now it
doesn't shift, but still runs fine. The control console is in great

I have a new front tire guard but haven't put them on yet, ditto on
some side panels I found at a motorcycle salvage yard, I got then
because it seemed that those might be prone to breaking. They also
had a real nice set of saddle bags same color but I couldn't afford

The tires are fairly new with if 2,000 miles on them; I spent over
$300 on them. There's a white walled Dunlop on the front and an AVON
Venom-X on the rear.

That's about it, I need to sell it because I need the money for
college and don't have the time or money to work on it. I'll trailer
it just about anywhere if you can pay for gas or even just half of
the gas (OVER $2 a gallon, holy carp, this is insane!); I live in
Illinois in a NW suburb of Chicago. Again, I have pictures on
request. Give me a call anytime at 847-951-5610. ~Mike Meyer

Richmond, Virginia

I am selling my beautiful 1986 Blue on Blue Cavalcade LXE. I bought
this bike from the original owner when it had around 12,000 miles on
it. It now has 36,500. I have kept fresh Mobil 1 oil in it ever
since I bought it. The bike runs and looks excellent and is Virginia
inspected through June 30th.  Everything on the bike works and there
is no broken plastic or cowlings, and no tears in the seats.  The
bike comes with the 2 color matching original helmets (some chips in
their finish), 2 red full face helmets with the headsets in them,
the original mud flaps front and rear, a Markland trailer hitch,
Markland highway boards, original Cavalcade cover (has some tears),
and the shop manual. I am asking $3700. Firm! To see detailed
pictures of my bike please go to  

I have bought many used bikes from BSA's and other Brits in the
60's, Hondas and Various Suzuki's along the way in the 70's and 80's
(definitely like Suzuki the best!) and finally my Cavalcade in the
early 90's.  Out of all the bikes I have bought and sold I have
never gotten stung nor have I stung anyone else.  The reason is that
loving motorcycles as I do and being very picky about who works on
my machines I to have a checklist that I use to check out any
machine I have bought or will ever buy as well as maintaining my
present machine.  I think anyone who would consider buying anything
from anywhere let alone the web without checking it out in person is
inviting disaster.  I will try to talk to Tracy's list as well as
what I have done from replacement parts and general maintenance.

Arkport Suzuki in Arkport NY sold more Cavalcades than any other
Suzuki dealer in the US.  Not just a few, MORE!  Allot more.  They
have the best mechanic on the eastern seaboard if not the US for
Cavalcades.  I am attaching their link.  
From the website this looks like a small dealer but he is one of
NY's largest dealers. You can only see a small portion of their
business in the photo. These guys know their stuff.  They are the
only ones who worked on my machine other than me. I have a hard copy
shop manual from Arkport that I always use.  I had someone who
didn't know what they were doing cost me an auto level sensor
assemble doing a routine tire change.  That only happens once and
you learn.   If you are anywhere close it is worth the drive to have
them check out your Cavalcade if you are not able to do your own
work or need their expertise.   I live in Richmond VA now and I get
all my parts (mail order) and as required I take it up to them.  It
has been about 2 years since I had them go over it carbs and all and
change gear lubes as well as the clutch and brake fluids.  I don't
know if he still has them but they did have a large amount of new as
well as used Cavalcade parts. The owner of Arkport has a twin to my
bike and he told me if you keep the battery fresh and fully charged
and do not load the machine up with too many lights the stator will
last much longer.  It has worked for me.  I have always used Mobil1
10W30 and a Suzuki filter for my bike and have changed both yearly
or at the 7500 mile mark as I never rarely exceeded the mileage in a
year. I have always stored the bike indoors.  Just since I moved to
Richmond has it not been in a heated storage area. There are no
wires bypassed or jumper-ed.  All gauges work. All switches
including radio and CB work.  Auto level works.  Compressor works
and does not leak.  All seat bladders and controls work and do not
leak. No marks or repairs in seats. Cruise control works fine. 
There is not an inordinate amount of slop in the drive train when
you quickly work the throttle up and down in the lower gears so the
drive train splines etc. are tight. No seal leaks of any kind. The
best mileage I could ever get was around 35 to 37. The paint is in
great shape however it does have 3 small spots where the clear coat
has came off (each smaller than a dime). The radiator is fine.  The
exhaust is in great shape but the chrome on the pipes is bad
directly behind the front wheel. The only thing that is not working
properly on the bike is the cable lever that works the vent
shutters.  I guess that is a problem with the Cavalcades.  It hasn't
been enough of an inconvenience to cause me to disassemble all the
cowlings to find out why.  The rest is great as you can see from the
web site. The pictures are accurate.  No touch up, no bunk.  What
you see is truly what you get.
  Since I have had the bike I have replaced:
The auto leveling sensor
Brakes & tires front and rear   NEVER scrimp on tires or brakes!!
The lower coolant tank
All cooling hoses (while I had it apart I changed all hoses on the
cooling system as a precaution.  As Tracy said the bike is a 1986
Clutch and brake fluids were changed last trip to Arkport. (Approx.
Map holder assembly
Both Antennas
Upper left cowling assembly (the one the change holder and the CB
controls fit in.) It was cracked.
Mirror assembly inside top luggage trunk.  It was cracked when I
bought the bike.
New Pioneer speakers in front.  Rear ones work OK or I would have
changed them as well.
Speedometer Drive assembly on front wheel.

Why am I selling it??  Unfortunately this is my last bike.  I have
had 4 very close calls in the last 2 years which were no fault of my
own.  Add that to the fact that my eyes are getting poorer
especially depth perception and I have came close to tipping it over
with my wife on the back when stopping at stop signs!!.  My wife
talked me into buying a 2001 Corvette.  That is our toy now.  I will
truly miss motorcycles especially my Cavalcade.  I have ridden new
Gold Wings each year when the new models came out and they do not
have the features or the smooth ride of my Cavalcade. They corner
better but can't hold a candle to the open road ride of the
Cavalcade.  That is why I have not upgraded bikes since the early
90's. There is no finer bike at any price. Having said all this NO
WAY should anyone buy anything without checking it out thoroughly in
person.  Thanks Tracy for inspiring me to write this up. Here is my
website.  ~Lloyd

Last updated:   Wednesday, February 06, 2013

Copyright 2000-2013  All rights reserved