The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Jay D. Johnson, Editor

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AMERICADE 2001

Well it is that time again for the Midwesterners and Easterners to start planning our big summer get together.  For those of you who don't know about Americade.... It is a touring bike rally that takes place annually in Lake George, New York.  There are over 50,000 people usually registered to attend.  It takes place the first week of June (4th-9th).  We started small and last year we had about 40+ of our group show up. The week is filled with guided rides up in the mountains and plenty of time for those who want to ride by themselves. Last year, in order to get to meet a lot of the faces we have been talking to on here, we became more organized and had a few set spots where we would meet through the week for breakfasts and suppers We hope to do that again this year. As it gets closer to the time you will be getting more info on the plans. If you are interested in going to Americade, you can get more info at SuzukiCavalcade.com.... Or go to Tourexpo.com.  At Tour Expo the site will list hotel and campgrounds... and even let you register online. Larry and I have had a wonderful time the past two years and have met some wonderful Caders. This is a family oriented type rally around a beautiful lake and friendly town. The riding is awesome...and the company even better. The biggest days of the rally are Wed - Sat. They have a lot of venders there all week with bike parts and leather and food...and on Friday night they have an awesome fireworks display and give away bike trailers and all kinds of neat stuff. Hope you will look into this.... You won't be sorry. Reservations need to be made soon...especially for a hotel room. Take care all and ride safe ~ Nurse Ratchet (Motherwind@aol.com.... or just plain Nancy

OK ...Let's get the Caders on the List. KennG, DonnaD, Larry & Nancy, Dennis & Sharon will be arriving on Sunday the 3rd and leaving on Sunday the 10th. We'll all be staying at the Quarters on 9N about 1/4 mile north of the Lobster Pot.  Karaoke?  YOU BET!

We will be staying at the Lake George Escape Campground from the evening of Sunday the 3rd to the morning of Saturday the 9th. Looking forward to seeing many of you! ~ Denny Potoczky 86 LXE South Bend, IN

Larry and I are signed up for the Steel Rail Tour on Tuesday. The rest of the week we are free to do anything we want. If any of you haven't taken the Advanced Safety-Riding Course Larry and I would highly recommend it. It is given at Americade and it is for rider and co-pilot. I learned so much about riding last year. If you take the safety course you are entitled to some discounts on motorcycle insurance also. You can't be too safe. Think about it! ~ Nancy

Hello Gang! I guess it's almost getting to that point where we start our Americade planning. As some of you already know, Last year, I compiled a list of who was going to Americade, where they were staying etc. And I'm ready to start again this year. So if you are going to Americade, and want to be on our list send me an email. I will send the completed list back out to only the people going to Americade. We are using this information so we can all meet at different places and say hi, etc. So here's what I need if you want to be on the list: Name Where you are staying Location of where you are staying (i.e. RT 9, Glens Falls, etc) When you will be arriving, and leaving. If you want to provide cell phone number or other number you can. If you want to give me detail of the route you are taking to Americade and home, so others may be able to join you along the way, you can do that too. I will also create a game plan of events for the group- i.e. Wednesday night Dinner/ Karaoke, etc. This away we will know about anyone who is available. We had some good places last year, which I will stay along the same lines, if anyone has any suggestions for other meeting places, let me know. You can reply privately to ameri_cade@snet.net <mailto:ameri_cade@snet.net Thanks All Cheryl Ogrisek

I am looking for advice on attending the Americade. Iíd like to know what to attend, where to look for a place to stay and where to meet some of you guys. Two friends and I are heading down this year. We hope to see you there ~ Carter

Carter, Check out tourexpo.com ...it is all about Americade and you can register right there on line. It has a whole section on Lodging and you better get a hotel room soon or there won't be any. If you like to camp...there is a real nice campground about 8 miles out of town Great Escape Campground. They serve all three meals there and have nice showers and laundry facilitles and a store. Larry and I are going on the steel rail run on Tues. Wednesday night some of the guys are doing the boat ride and the covered bridge run. On Wednesday night for sure we will be eating at the Lobster Pot and doing kareoki afterwards. On Friday we will be meeting at the baseball cage around 10 I think for our annual Cade pics...and we might even try a group ride again after our gathering. Most of us will attend the Fireworks on Friday night...and ride in the parade on Sat. morning. As the time gets closer we will tell you any other gatherings we are having. Last year we had a couple of breakfasts together to start the day out right... Your rally sounds nice...wish we werenít so committed this summer. Let us know when you find a place to stay so we can put you name on the list and where to find you. Good luck...Nancy (motherwind@aol.com) and Larry 86lxe Ohio

CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAIN PARKS TOUR

The dates for this yearís tour of the Canadian Rocky Mountain National Parks are July 28th through August 5th. Registration is $25.00 for bike & rider and $15 for a passenger. T-shirt or polo shirt included. For info, email jay@treefarmtapes.com. For photo preview click on: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/YosemiteDr/nw_motorcycle_tours/Canada0.html

 

NATIONAL DEALER SHOW

This is just a reminder that the national dealers show (Powersports something-or-other) will take place on Feb 17-20 in Indianapolis. Be sure to ask ALL of your local dealers (not just Suzuki) if they're going, and then lobby them to inquire of every accessory manufacturer they run across to either produce accessories for our Cavalcade, or to list those products in their catalog which will fit our Cavalcade. Remind them that the more they can provide to you the buyer, the better their bottom line. We are customer, with green in your pockets and plastic in our wallets, who happen to love our rides. We care not who besides our dealership can satisfy our need for parts and accessories, and will actively seek out those who will seek to satisfy our need for a 'fix.' Believe me, money talks. An example is SWS here in Midland. A very vocal GoldWing supporter (his business is 99.9% GoldWings at the national level, providing parts/accessories/service/sales), he didn't have the time of day for me when I first walked in. But when I bought my HJC 3XL full-face with a J&M headset installed, and paid cash, his attitude changed. He's now helping me sort out what accessories might work, and doing it cheerfully. The dealership where I did the same with for a jacket is now on a first-name basis whenever I walk in, and the dealership some 20 miles away does the same. So cultivate those relationships, and be vocal about your needs and wants. (LOL - the local dealership even offered today to take a heel-toe shifter off a showroom Vulcan to see if it will fit on my 'Cade. I'll take them up on the offer when I get it back together.) And if you ask, they'll surely remember when they are at the Show.

This is THE show for these folks, and ALL the after market manufacturers and distributors will be there. They gauge their sales and base their production on what the dealers ask for and order. And the bike manufacturers will be there, too. So be insistent, be vocal even offer to go with them to the show. Who knows what can happen?

SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

Hi, All, As the subject indicates, this is a recap of my shopping experience with The Electrical Connection, Knoxville, TX. http:www.electricalconnection.com. My contact with them came from, I believe, the mention of their site this last week in our Digest. The topic then was driving lights and their mounts. This place is a gold mine! FYI, I've ordered the following: 1) A set of small chrome lights that mount on the outside of the mirrors and flash with the turn signals for view by those who may be alongside. 2) An ABS plastic repair kit. 3) A turn signal conversion kit that adds a red light to each of the rear turn signals, making them into running lights until the turn signals flash their normal amber color. 4) A Power Plate, which is relay-powered auxiliary fuse box for wiring accessories. 5) A Handlebar Switch mount configured with a momentary switch, designed for handlebar-activated CB use (it could also be used with their Headlight Cutoff wiring for Light Parades, etc). Total Cost: $134.25, plus shipping. This is an interesting shop. Prices are very reasonable, and the gentleman who answered the phone was very helpful and pleasant to deal with. While the product was originally developed for the GoldWing, he's now developed product for every touring bike except the Cavalcade. He suggested that if I've any problems during installation, I should use the 800# to call for support And I was reminded that he'd been contacted by someone wanting driving lights for our 'Cade. His comment was that if someone in or near Knoxville and willing to come to the shop for a couple of hours, they will make up the brackets for his machine in their shop. (they manufacture their own product) Theyíll install the lights for free. They would then have the template for all future orders. I would imagine that if that person could stay awhile, or even leave the bike, the other systems could also be tailored to the 'Cade. So Y'all who like to play with lights and such should go visit! Andy Anderson Midland, TX

 

CB RADIO INSTALLATION

Andy, I can tell you from experience that the third connector you see (the beige one, which was taped over,) is, indeed, for a CB. I made the mistake of trying to connect my intercom using that one and even though the holes and pins didn't match, when I forced the connection, that's when I burned out the switches in my radio. In other words, DON'T connect to that plug unless you have a Suzuki CB to hook up. On my bike the intercom connectors were really well hidden. I found the rear one okay, but mistook that CB connector for the front. Only after ruining the radio and spending some time on the phone with the J&M troubleshooter did we ascertain that the third plug was for the CB. You've gotta dig deep to find the intercom connector for the front if the bike has never had an intercom hooked up before. Hope this helps ya. ~ Dennis

Hey Y'all, I finally got the plastic off today in order to work on the 30 or so little tweaks and stuff that I want to do. I found a little something regarding the Radio/Intercom that may have some bearing on my intercom not working when I finally tried it (new headsets just led me to that problem - new stuff always does, I've noticed). Anyway, when looking for the front headset plug-in, I found that the previous owner had apparently run both front and back connections to the left rear, where the passenger might ride. Instead, near the front, was a beige female connector, which had been taped over. Now, to make things perfectly clear, there are three connectors coming off the flat spade-type connections at the bottom of the radio box - two are beige and one is black. One of the beige connectors is plainly marked "Front," the second beige is unmarked and was taped over, and the black connector was feeding a black cable which ended at and was marked "Rear." Obviously, since the whole thing is apart now for a while, I can't yet test anything to see if it works. But I'd at least like to know - is this unmarked beige cable the input to the radio where the CB would be connected? I can't find any other connector either on the box or on the radio. While I'm waiting for the other stuff I've ordered (see previous message), I've several other things to do, to include cleaning a lot of electrical connections that I see are corroded or just plain dirty. By the way, I've also ordered today the Chrome Radiator Grill Cover (99000-99031-10V), the Antenna Holder (Bracket) (95860-24A92) and the Heel-Toe Shifter (25600-24A50). All of these items show "Discontinued," but I'm also testing the theory that Suzuki 'discontinues' a part that hasn't been ordered in six months or more. My parts man works with me on a lot of things, including the spark plug caps and seals that Suzuki wants over $100 for (after market is nice!), so I'll let y'all know what does or doesn't come in. I'm having to heat my garage now - temp is dropping into the teens at night, but conversely, warming into the 50/60* range during the day. And I want to get back onto the road, if only for short hops. ~ Andy Midland, TX

I just got a Cobra 75 CB and got my antenna hooked up. I would like to run the external speaker hookup on the CB to the bike's CB connection. The diagram shows a mic. +, mic. ground, left speaker, right speaker, and speaker ground- do I connect to one speaker or splice into both? I would like to be able to hear the CB in the helmet speakers ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, working on 80 K South Bend, IN

If you have an external CB & want to put the audio output of the CB through the radio into the bike speakers or headsets it can be done very simply. If you want to take the audio from the CB & use the helmet mike it can also be done but it is somewhat more complicated and involves using a DPDT switch and a bit of wiring. To route the audio output of your Cobra 75 through the speakers/helmets you will need to pick up an 8 pin male din connector at a local electronics shop. Make up a cable to run from the external speaker jack of the CB to the 8-pin din. Connect the ground from the external speaker jack (this is the shaft) of the CB to pin 1 on the 8 pin din and the hot of the external speaker jack (this is the tip) to pin 3 of the 8 pin din. Then just plug it into the external jack of the CB & the CB din connector on the Clarion radio and anything that breaks squelch on the CB will come through both speakers and/or helmets. The audio is routed directly through the radio and volume will be controlled by the CB. I just took this route with a Maxon one hander, as I did not find a place I could mount a small CB without loosing something on the bike. Another tip is that behind the water overflow tank (just under the right fairing) you should find an orange and a black/white wire. These are the wires that are used by the marker light kit from the factory to control a relay. If you want your radio, extra lights etc to turn off with the key use these 2 wires ( + & - ) to power a relay and then use the relay to switch a wire from the battery or the accessory screws of the fuse panel. When you shut off your bike anything else turned on will also shut off. I personally would recommend relaying direct off the battery as it keeps accessories out of the electrical system in case of problems. If you do go to the battery remember to fuse it a close to the battery as possible. Regards ~ Rick

Hi Guys, Well I'm hooking up my after market CB to work with my headsets. I've dug through the archives and searched through the Cade CD and got most of my info, but still need more. All my questions are pertaining to the 8-pin din plug coming from the radio that is meant for hooking up the Suzuki CB unit to. Pin 6 says it's for "CB Remocon 12v", is this the hot wire for the CB unit? Pin 8 says it's for "CB mic. "(earth)," is this the mic. pos. or ground, and which pin is the other? Pin 4 says it's for "push to talk", does this get 12v pos. to power a relay in the radio to switch between intercom and CB? On my CB unit I have connections for an external mic. and speaker, so that part is easy. Now I need to know where to hook these 4 wires and how to get the push-to-talk button to switch the mic. from intercom to CB. I have Rick and Mike's info, but I think this will be easier then cutting into my headset connections. If we can get this figured out, I will post complete directions for the rest of you that might want to try to add a CB this way. Thanks a bunch and I know I'll be hearing' from ya'll. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

This is the email that was sent out to all...I kept it just in case...I hope it helps...I think there was a diagram with it too. If you have an external CB & want to put the audio output of the CB through the radio into the bike speakers or headsets it can be done very simply. If you want to take the audio from the CB & use the helmet mike it can also be done but it is somewhat more complicated and involves using a DPDT switch and a bit of wiring. To route the audio output of your Cobra 75 through the speakers/helmets you will need to pick up an 8 pin male din connector at a local electronics shop. Make up a cable to run from the external speaker jack of the CB to the 8-pin din. Connect the ground from the external speaker jack (this is the shaft) of the CB to pin 1 on the 8 pin din and the hot of the external speaker jack (this is the tip) to pin 3 of the 8 pin din. Then just plug it into the external jack of the CB & the CB din connector on the Clarion radio and anything that breaks squelch on the CB will come through both speakers and/or helmets. The audio is routed directly through the radio and volume will be controlled by the CB. I just took this route with a Maxon one hander, as I did not find a place I could mount a small CB without loosing something on the bike. Another tip is that behind the water overflow tank (just under the right fairing) you should find an orange and a black/white wire. These are the wires that are used by the marker light kit from the factory to control a relay. If you want your radio, extra lights etc to turn off with the key use these 2 wires ( + & - ) to power a relay and then use the relay to switch a wire from the battery or the accessory screws of the fuse panel. When you shut off your bike anything else turned on will also shut off. I personally would recommend relaying direct off the battery as it keeps accessories out of the electrical system in case of problems. If you do go to the battery remember to fuse it a close to the battery as possible. Regards Rick

RADIO REPAIR

I'm new to the group, but it looks like this will be a godsend with all the information on where to get accessories and especially all the dialog on the radio. I've got an 86 Cade with 16K miles on it. Got it from a fellow two years ago who had had it sitting in storage for five years. I've been looking to see how to get my radio repaired and everything points to the infamous switches. Are they all the same? I saw when I went to the Digikey web site that there was no special part number. Can I just order 20 of the switches and then replace them all? I'm thinking I might be able to find an audio repair shop that will do the work if I provide the switches. I'm not the world's best solderer, so don't want to ruin the radio by botching the job. Thanks for any info you all can provide. ~ Dennis

Hi Dennis, Welcome to the group. You are right about this being the place for info on the Cavalcade. You have several choices for repair of the radio switches. Radio Replacement Switches (Buttons) Part #: P8080SCT-ND 160g of force. These buttons work quite nicely with the Clarion Radio. Your radio will need 16. The price should be less than $0.25 each:

Economy Electronics of Tennessee, 31 W. 1st St., Cookeville, TN 38501, Ask for Richard Rhodes

Granada TV and Video, Duncan Patterson, 4001 First Street #5, Livermore, CA 94550, 1-925-443-2200

For this info and other info go to this web site: http://www.suzukicavalcade.com/PartsInfo.htm.

Mike, THANKS, but I already had this from an earlier post of yours. I want to hookup everything to the 8-pin din if it is possible. Which I believe it is. If someone canít tell me what I need to know, I have a friend that has a Cade with the stock CB, and I will take my volt/ohm meter and test the connections at his 8 pin din to see if I can figure it out. Wish me luck! If I am right, then hooking up an after market CB will be much easier. I might even put together an after market CB hookup kit for anyone else that wants to do it. If we canít get the big companies to do it, we'll just have to do it ourselves! ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Hi All, There has been some discussion regarding the type and availability of replacement speakers for out bikes, and one of the comments was that the cones of the speakers should not be paper (i.e., water-resistant). I did some investigation of the Replacement Speakers that are stocked at JCW, and found these which seem to meet our requirements (both inexpensive and reliability). http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=93840http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=29393http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=27449http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=687These are paper, but they're CHEAP:http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=4127For me, I'd prefer either JDC or Jensen. But then again, if I'm using my headsets all of the time, the cheapies would work just as well. After all, if they're never played, what does quality of sound matter? ~AndyMidland, TX Andy, I purchased a pair of J&M speakers last year at Americade and they work and sound great. ~ Rick

PARTS AVAILABLE

The end of the parts has arrived. Once these go, that is it, many of these parts are not even available from the factory, and all are priced at a fraction of the dealer cost. I invite you to take stock and have these parts on hand for when you do need them. Bike has been dealer dissembled and will ship direct to you. Credit Cards OK. Email me directly at b.layton@home.com Complete Rear Bumper with extra marker lights from factory. $250 Rear Brake Caliper and hoses, $75 Complete Front End, (Steering head, upper and lower yokes, right and left fork assemblies complete), rebuild including new seals, fluids and spring calibration to factory standards this past summer: $150 Right Rear Signal Light Lens Assembly complete, (perfect Shape): $50 Both Right and Left front signal light lenses and assemblies complete, (perfect condition): $20 each, Right and Left Genuine Suzuki Air Shocks, New Last Summer, perfect condition, no leaks:, $200 for the pair Package price on 4 coils, 2 Igniters, 1 regulator/Rectifier all in excellent condition: $375 Left and Right Side exhaust extensions,(from Collector back) in great condition, and complete:, $200 Speedometer cables:, $20 Wiring Harness:, $100 Inquire by emailing me directly at b.layton@home.com.

I have for sale a few items I would like to offer here before going to eBay with them... I have a rear mudflap (Cavalcade), factory OEM CB radio and a set of highway boards like new (not floor boards). Any one interested please Email me directly at chopperonly@excite.com. Thanks ~ Chopper

Some of you may have already been over to this site, but it appears that they may have some stuff for Cades. If you want used stuff, you'll have to call them. http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/ 317-634-7550 ~ Tracy

I have an original NEW light bar for a cavalcade. It's chrome, and comes with all the hardware to install. It will only fit a LX. My bike is an 86 LXE and it will not work. I called the place where I got it (CYCLE EMPIRE, INC.) to double check, and the part # is for a LX only. The bar for a LXE is a different part #. Can send a picture if you want. ~ Tom Tomsauto@netnitco.net

PARTS NEEDED

Hey Gang, I seem to have lost one of the helmet lock downs on the back of my Cade has vibrated off some where along with two-radio antenna? Does anyone know where I can get another helmet lock down? ~ Teddy 87x Cade

 

ELECTRICAL

In reference to: http://www.electricalconnection.com. For some time now I have read several messages in this group regarding the need for a voltmeter that is suitable to mount on their Cavalcade. Two or three years ago I purchased the Battery Monitor and the False Alarm that is now sold by this source. The original supplier must have sold his rights because I could not contact them when I tried to order them for my Wife's Gold Wing. As soon as I saw the Electrical Connection Web Page I recognized the items. I am very satisfied with the operation of the item. Because of it's size and ease of installation I ordered the model for the 1500 Gold Wing to put on my Cade. It fits nicely by the left speaker similar to the picture shown on their Web Page. ~ Bill Fargusson, Puyallup, WA

Art, You didn't mention checking battery (positive and ground) connections at or in the connections after the battery. A little corrosion will play tricks on you, like having a connection one-minute and not having it the next. Remember resistance (heat) will build with a bad connection and can cause the connection to be broken when hot.

My cornering lights have been disconnected for a little bit and I want to get them back in service. Can anyone remember how they're supposed to work? Will they come on when the bike isn't running? Like, can I turn on the key and then the turn signal and have them come on? Are the orange/green wires on both sides the "HOT" wires or are the red or black with them the "HOT" wires and the o/g go to ground? The plug end to the lights disappeared when I hooked them up as driving lights. I'm afraid of "frying" something expensive if I hook them up wrong. Any help (even good-natured ribbing) would be greatly appreciated. Later KennG

Hi Kenn, Let's see if I can jump in on this. The cornering lights work when the turn signals are in operation. When the left signal is flashing, the left cornering light comes on and stays on, until the left signal light goes off. Itís the same for the right side. They're designed to light your path in the direction you are turning. They will come on when you turn on the key and your turn signals. The engine does not have to be running. I'll bow out on the wire colors. Hope this helps refresh your memory. ~ Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

One thing I haven't seen addressed yet. Did you actually check the battery level or the probe? The battery indicator is actually just a fluid level indicator. While this has a bearing on how well the battery performs, it does not indicate a voltage drop. Since it is a new battery, I wonder if it had enough fluid to start with. HeyJerr 86 LXE San Jose, Calif.

Had problem with turn signal and found broken connection on the ignition (brown wire) hope this helps. ~ BobL

I have e-mailed Kenn G. the cornering light installation instructions. For the rest of you, it is on the CD if you have one labeled Nov 2000. If you have an earlier version and would like the cornering light instructions (or any other accessory instructions), I can e-mail them to you. ~ Tracy

DON'T GO INSANE!

My bike is driving me insane! I've replaced the stator and regulator. I added a new battery fully charged. Rode sat. All ok drove approx.75miles know problems. Bike is very strong; I got home checked battery charging fine. Climbed on today and I made about 15 miles before battery symbol shows up and bike begins to coast on i-295. Lucky I had a cell phone and good humor. If any has any ideas I would be thankful. Oh yea it's an 86 Cade with 80'000 miles since getting home I have not checked anything. Thanks ~ Art in FL

Art, You didn't mention checking battery (positive and ground) connections at or in the connections after the battery. A little corrosion will play tricks on you, like having a connection one-minute and not having it the next. Remember resistance (heat) will build with a bad connection and can cause the connection to be broken when hot. ~ Dennis

ART, Check the two ground wires going from battery there is a connector a molded plastic connector that tends to melt you may have to re wire that using new connectors I had the same problem last year before Americade. ~ Chopper

Probably something simple that was over looked, make sure all the connections are clean, you didn't kick a main breaker did you check connection at ignition switch. The battery has to HAVE at least 8 volts for the instrament monitor to light up. You'll find it. Keep the faith. We're all pullin fer ya! ~ Walter in Maryland

You must have an extra grounded somewhere. Take some of your plastic panels off and look for squeezed wires. ~ Gerry in NY

One thing I haven't seen addressed yet...............did you actually check the battery level or the probe? The battery indicator is actually just a fluid level indicator. While this has a bearing on how well the battery performs, it does not indicate a voltage drop. Since it is a new battery, I wonder if it had enough fluid to start with. ~ HeyJerr, 86 LXE, San Jose, Calif.

CADES FOR SALE

Hello All, Well it's been about one year since I bought my first Cade. Wow, what an experience! This group has been a great source of info. I even had to give the Senior Suzuki Service Mgr. in CA the web site address because he always has people asking about radio repair. It's amazing because at 38 years old I always thought I'd be quite older before I owned a dresser. Now it tends to be my bike of choice. But I need the room in the garage and need to sell my Brown/pink/burgundy/whatever you call it color bike. NO, NO, don't worry I have bought a blue 86 since my first purchase. Looks like I will always own a touring bike now! So, it is an 86 LXE. 67,000 miles. I am the second owner and in the motorcycle business so I tend to over maintain my machines. The bike has everything on it except the CB. (yes it has a map window!) When I bought it needed the left side bag and mounts. This has all been replaced with new and "Bob Ramsey" parts. (thanks Bob) A recent clutch covers removal, checking of the water pump drive chain and disassembly and measuring of the clutch. why? why not just thought I should check it out! The bike is not perfect cosmetically but what14 year old machine is? As I told discussed with Bob I am listing the bike for $5200.00 in the local Traders Post. For anyone in or around this group I would think about the low to mid 4k range. No, it's not $3,500 like some bikes I've seen, but then who knows what you would get. Also, I will be in Florida for Bike Week from Feb 25th to March 24th. I will be bringing the bike to ride and could deliver it there. Hope I can give her a good home!! ~ D.J Petrou, Nashville, TN, chamiosdog@home.com

Greetings from Vancouver, BC, Canada, I have an 86 LX For Sale 51,000 kms immaculate condition, two tone brown with inner bags and full cover, two helmets too all for C$6,000. Bike can be viewed at Burnaby Kawasaki, 7771 Edmonds Street, Burnaby, BC Tel 604-525-9393.

Hi guys, I am selling my Cade 1986 LX-GV 1400 gd/gt miles: 49,285 color: light and dark brown with Clarion stereo am/fm cassette. Itís in great shape! Iíll get a picture on my e-mail to send out if needed. Iím selling it because I do not know how to ride. The Cavalcade is just too big to start on; I am getting a smaller bike. I live in Sacramento California price: $3,500.00 Fred Dixon (916) 784-7131 I work graveyard so Iím home in the day time and you can call then. Thank you! Fred Dixon

 

From: Harvey Northrup E-Mail: hnorthro@tampabay.rr.com

For Sale 1986 Cavalcade LX with all the goodies plus shop Manual and 2 helmet with matching paint and Mic 70,000, $2500

PARTS

Guys, I just heard back from my local dealer, regarding the discontinued parts I had ordered. Chrome Radiator Grill Cover (99000-99031-10V), the Antenna Holder (Bracket) (95860-24A92) and the Heel-Toe Shifter (25600-24A50). Being the good guy that he is, he ordered them for me , along with the Cowl Panels (both sides). He just called and verified that all the Discontinued Items are definitely so. We're going to check Honda shifters to see if any of them fit. Cowl panels came in today; were ordered last Thursday. List price is $89.95. BTW, the part # for the Chrome Radiator Grill Cover doesn't show up on the Suzuki Motorcycle Model Application Guide of June 2000. The p/n's don't go that high. This Fiche is available at your dealership, and shows the p/n and what models use that item. My dealer gave me this Fiche set (I have a Fiche Reader) so I can cross-reference. Also, both the Clutch and Brace Master Cylinder covers are the same, and are also used by: GSX-R1100K,L GSX-1100FJ, FK, FL, FM, FN, FP GSX-600FJ Bottom Line: if anyone can find a source for Chrome Cover for any one of the above, we can add a little sparkle to our Beloved Behemoths. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

I found some air wings that fit our Cavalcade: http://www.bakerbuilt.com/ ~ Glen McKibben, 88 cavalcade

Today in my travels I picked up a pair of antenna brackets that hold the radio antenna and believe the same one holds the CB antenna any one interested let me know. ~ Chopper

PARTS WANTED

Wanted: Drivers floorboard's for an 86 LXE, also a pair of stock handle bar grips, and rear mud flap... Thanks ~ Tom, Email: tomsauto@netnitco.net

 

I have seen a couple of CB's for sale, but have not noted the locations. Does anyone know where I can get a serviceable Cavalcade CB radio with wiring, switch and display? Coax and antenna are not needed. Please contact me direct at: BFargusson@aol.com

 

STEEL BRAKE LINES

I remember someone had steel brake lines put on their bike. Does anyone have info on where to get them? ~ Gerry in NY

Gerry, You probably won't find any that are made specifically for the Cav, however, if you get the lengths you might be able to find a set for another bike that would match up. Also, Dennis Kirk has lengths of pre-made stainless brake lines that you put an adapter fitting on each end of. The pricing isn't too terrible, either. ~ Tracy

Gerry, I believe that Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse has them. As I recall, I saw them listed on their web site: HTTP://www.mawonline.com. Not sure of the price, so let us know what you find. I'm thinking of upgrading to them when I replace my rotors. ~ Andy Midland, TX

I've seen that some Caders are looking for brake parts. The 1986, 1400 intruder used the same brake and clutch reservoir as the Cade and these were chromed. They also had steel lines for the intruder, which were the same as the Cades. After market rotors are available from several companies, and you can get both front and rear for what just the fronts from Suzuki will cost. ~ Bill Brooks, 1986 LX

There has been some discussion lately of stainless steel brake lines for the Cade. Here is what I've learned or have been told by various people:

#1 Suzuki mechanic - he has never known of a Cavalcade brake line to go bad in normal service. His only advice was to check for age cracks in the rubber lines.

#2 Stainless steel lines are available from Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse as a special order. $105 for 3 line front set. This is from their web site.

#3 Cost of buying a new standard set from Suzuki: Upper line (If available - currently showing as discontinued) $67. Two bottom lines are $58 each.

Connectors on the bottom lines are special - not banjo bolts. Fitting on the end of the lines actually screws into the caliper. This was from the owner of a motorcycle salvage yard. He has a set from an 1988 Cade. Note 85-87 takes one set -- 88's are different. This is verified (?) I think, by Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse their set fits 85-87 I could not see a mention of a set for the 88's. Salvage yard owner's recommendation was "don't fix what isn't broken" and if you are going to change lines MAW prices are a real bargain.

#4 I am assuming LX lines on their site will also fit the LXE's -- Lines are listed as Special Order Items. (05771) $104.95 Russell Front Brake 3 Line Kit Special Order #09046.

www.mawonline.com

Front Rear Clutch GV1400GD CAV. LX 85-87 R09046 05771 R09069 05730 R09108 05726

Russell Brake and Clutch Lines

Hydraulic lines designed to wear well under pressure. Teflon lined, steel braided lines for smooth fluid transfer. High burst strength and reduced Line expansion. Cadmium coated end fittings to prevent corrosion. Some Russell Brake Lines are Special Order items, which could take 4-6 weeks. You will be informed when you order if your application applies.

I've decided to stay with my stock lines for now, but hope this helps anyone looking. ~ Al from Mass

I've noticed that the question of brake lines keeps coming up in the group. While it is true that the lines seldom fail, they do need replacing. As a rubber brake line ages, and is used, the brake fluid erodes the inside of the line, actually increasing the internal diameter of the line. That is why your brake fluid will turn black and get thick, and the dissolved rubber tends to clog things up, and unlike a car or truck a motorcycle as very little reserve to dilute the fluid. This is why motorcycle manufactures recommend that the fluid and the brake lines be changed so often. Also the lines lose their strength and will began to balloon under pressure. Find someone with a new bike and squeeze the front brake line and then have them squeeze the brake, if the line is in good older you will feel almost nothing, a older line will expand slightly in your hand and you will be able to feel it. This ballooning can give you feedback like you have a warped rotor or a lot of fade, especially if the brakes are warm or hot. ~ Bill Brooks, 86LX Dark Cherry

NO TURN SIGNALS

I have a problem that has developed and I need some help. The bike has been sitting for a couple of weeks on the battery tender and I went out to start it the other day and started to do a safety check. I discovered I have no turn signals. The front lights are on but when I push the switch left or right or put the hazards on. nothing happens. The rear turn signals do not come on, the fronts do not blink....nothing. The lights do not go out or anything but they do not blink. I found the turn signal controller in the upper left fairing just behind the left turn signal but I do not know how to check it to see if it is bad. Any ideas? ~ Gary Fairfield, 1986 TT Blue LXE, Jax, FL

Hey Gary, I ran into the same problem when I was rebuilding my bike after a collision. Finally ended up replacing all three relays to get mine to work. I used a test light to trouble shoot mine. Good luck! ~ Vada

Try a new fuse yet? You never know maybe just that. ~ Gary D. 86 Cade, Greenfield, Wisconsin.

Hey everybody, I have ordered the T/S control module from B. Layton here on the site. We struck a good deal. I was charged $44.00 for the part, service fee and shipping total. He has saved me $137.05. I am awaiting its arrival by snail mail and will let you all know if it corrects the problem I am having. ~ Gary Fairfield, 86 LXE TT Blue, Jax, FL

REPLACING THE BEARINGS AND SEAL

Hey Everybody, I hope your day was better than mine. I noticed today that my rear differential housing is leaking. When I went to work it was fine, I go out for lunch and there is a small puddle under my bike and there is fluid on the tire. It looks like it is coming out from between the wheel and the hub. I looked on Tracy's CD (pg. 53 in the parts book) and my guess would be either the oil seal or the bearings. Has anyone else had this problem? How difficult is it to replace the bearings and seal? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. ~ Chuck Brunssum, NL

You may be able to work those pistons back in with a hefty C-clamp. I use one to push the pistons in when I change pads on cars etc. When I did my Cade brakes they worked just fine. Put a little piece of wood on the outside of the housing and go easy. Good luck. ~ KennG

 There is a breather hole at the top of the rear shaft housing on the inside by the wheel If your final gear oil is overfilled, the excess oil will work it's way out of that hole. If it is cold when you are riding, the oil will not warm up quickly and appear to be leaking. Check the level of the oil by removing the fill screw behind the left saddlebag. If it is level with the hole, you're fine, could have burped oil out of the air hole. If it is low, fill it and watch it. The oil seal on the final gear housing will probably never wear out, but, keep an eye on it. I've been all through this before. Good luck. ~ Gerry in NY  
Would like to see for my own info. When we post a repair problem i.e.: seals leaking, u-joint gone, intermediate drive problems, wheel bearings bad, is for us to add the mileage our bikes had when this problem popped up. This would sort of give us something to look out for, especially if we're planning a long trip. We might be able to look the situation over. Just a thought. As for the rear wheel seal leaking,  make sure it's not coming from the intermediate gearbox, down the driveshaft torque tube. I had a motorcycle mechanic from Tenn. tell me his rear intermed seal went allowing oil to enter the torque tube, This over a period of time washed the grease out of the u-joint, causing that to go bad.

Thanks for the info, I am going to take the saddlebags off tomorrow and look for the breather hole. Worse case , I have already booked an appt at my local garage on Tuesday. So far, there is no noise coming from the rear end and yes, it was very cold out. I will let everyone know what , if anything, is wrong. By the way, the bike has just under 45,000 miles on it (86 LX). Thanks, ~ Chuck 

Brad: the seals Iím referring to are item #'s 1and 15. There is also clutch shaft seal (item #17's little arrow looks like it's placing that dowel pin in a 1" hole, actually a seal goes there (clutch shaft) if this seal leaks it allows engine oil to leak to atmosphere. If Seal 15 leaks it allows engine oil to transfer into the intermediate gear box, overfilling it to either let it leak out the breather tube (item 13) or to overpressure the seal #1 and pass out through the u joint, into the left swing arm. To check this drain intermediate gear oil to proper level by removing screw #23 and allowing oil level to seek it's proper level (bike on center stand). Reassemble bike. On next trip let bike set till gear box oil is settled, recheck if there is a fair amount of oil to leak out and the engine oil is low approx. the same amount. When you remove the screw again, seal 15 is more than likely bad. How bad ????

Depends on how much oil has transferred, how far you rode.

To check seal #1 fill intermediate gearbox to proper level. After next ride gently remove forward clamp on left swing arm boot. If there is oil in that boot seal#1 has failed.

There are times you might get a few drops out the breather tube(which shows up in the general kick stand switch area, (you foot peg draggers might experience this) however if the plug item #10 has become dislodged you can't keep oil in the intermediate gear box. As it will leak through the u joint, into the left swing arm. Spike said this dislodge happened to his bike.

Suggestion: anytime you remove the intermediate gearbox these seals and gaskets related to the job should be replaced hope its not often. Walter in Maryland

Hi Gang, After having to change seal # 1 twice in the last three years I can tell you it's not a fun thing to do. I had to change it once when I rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder.( Why did they put the bolts for the slave on the inside like that?) And then again due to leakage into the swingarm. From the way it looks I may have to replace the shaft this seal rides on due to wear if it goes out again. ~ John in LA, 86 LXE

I remember someone had steel brake lines put on their bike. Does anyone have an idea where they get them? ~ Gerry in NY Gerry, I believe that Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse has them. As I recall, I saw them listed on their web site. HTTP://www.mawonline.com. Not sure of the price, so let us know what you find. I'm thinking of upgrading to them when I replace my rotors. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Gerry, You probably won't find any that are made specifically for the Cav, however, if you get the lengths you might be able to find a set for another bike that would match up. Also, Dennis Kirk has lengths of pre-made stainless brake lines that you put an adapter fitting on each end of. The pricing isn't too terrible, either. ~ Tracy

I've seen that some Caders are looking for brake parts. The 1986, 1400 intruder used the same brake and clutch reservoir as the Cade and these were chromed. They also had steel lines for the intruder, which were the same as the Cades. The after-market rotors are available from several companies, and you can get both front and rear for what just the fronts from Suzuki will cost. ~ Bill Brooks, 1986 LX

I have developed an oil leak from the driveshaft housing. It is apparently leaking from the point where the housing bolts up to the rear drive. (Where the four bolts are.) I am going to need to replace the seals I suspect. Are there just the three seals? How much will it cost and how long and hard is it to do? ~ Gary Fairfield, 86 LXE TT Blue, Jax, FL

Gary: Iíd first determine where the, oil is coming from Is it the rear gearbox or intermediate gearbox. My guess would be the intermediate gearbox running down and collecting in the lower part of the left swing art. Then it would seep out around the four attach bolts. Hopefully it's only the rear gearbox seal at the u-joint, not a hard job, time consuming, and you definitely need the maintenance manual. Good luck. If you go to the archived messages, I posted how I went about determining which seal was leaking ~ Walter

FORK SPRINGS

I am having a new set of fork springs installed (Progressive Suspension Products) but I can find no information on how much oil or what the weight of the oil should be. Does anyone know how much oil should be in each fork leg? ~ Mike

Mike: with the fork spring removed and the fork tube collapsed, stand the fork assembly straight up and fill with 15 weight fork oil up to 4.8 in. from the top of the fork any questions let me know ~ Tom

Each leg holds 13.8 ounces and when the spring is out and the inner tube is compressed all the way to the bottom the oil level should be 4.8 inches from the top of the fork. The manual says 15 weight. ~ Tracy

LOCKED UP BRAKES

Does anyone out there know how unlock front brakes. TODAY I tried to get my bike out of storage & guess what .It wouldnít move!!! The Suzuki shop said, tap on the brakes. But not hard. I just paid off the bike. It has been sitting around for 5 yr. I hope I can get it up. There is 20000 mi. on the bike. It is 86 LXE Cavalcade. Only one owner. ~ Dennis Reaume

Dennis, you may have to get some spray on them and loosen them up. You may want to think about pulling the cylinders down, cleaning them up and put them back in service. It may also be a good time to change the brake fluids. Not all that hard of a job. More time and patience than anything else. Do you have a service manual? If not order Tracy's CD off the www.suzukicavalcade.com site. It's worth its weight in gold. Later ~ KennG

Dennis, I had a similar problem and it turned out to be dirt in the brakeís master cylinder. ~ Jay

You may be able to work those pistons back in with a hefty C-clamp. I use one to push the pistons in when I change pads on cars etc. When I did my Cade brakes they worked just fine. Put a little piece of wood on the outside of the housing and go easy. Good luck. ~ KennG

VIBRATIONS

Recently the helmet lock on the rear bar under the center cargo box has vibrated off. I'm not feeling excessive vibration as I ride in the seat but this is the second item that has come off the bike as I rode It.. the other being the antenna. So my questions are: 1) Does any one know where I can get a new helmet lock. 2) Is there excessive vibration on these bikes? 2) If not, could my wheels out of balance and be causing this? ~ Ted 87LXE

TROPHY WINNER

For those interested I entered the Cavalcade in the World of Wheels here in Wichita Falls Texas last weekend and would like to share with everyone the photo my wife took. It was awarded; Best of Show, Best of Class, and Outstanding Display. ~ SargFitz

Editorís Note: This photo is now posted on the web site, www.SuzukiCavalcade.com. Congratulations!

You have a really sharp bike, SargFitz. And now you have the awards to prove it too. LOL But you didnít need them to know that did you? LOL This just goes to show us all that we have bikes that we should be proud of. I have a question now. Has anyone heard of a Special Edition 1988 Cavalcade that the dealers only got one each of?? There is a guy selling one that says it is one of these, but I never heard of it till now.

Getting anxious for spring to come, Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Sarge, Fantastic showing! Congratulations!! This is what we should ALL do with every show we can possibly enter. When we start winning, the pictures should then all be forwarded to Suzuki; maybe with the continued exposure and (hopefully) trophies, we can convince them that we deserve their support and maybe even a newer version of our Beloved Behemoth. For what it's worth, I entered a Yamaha XJ650 in a small show at a dealership in Roswell, NM a few years ago. I'd only added saddlebags, driving lights, a windshield and a recut seat (it looked like a small version of my old police bike. It stopped people in their tracks, both in Roswell and at the Golden Aspen Motorcycle Rally in Ruidoso that year. It also won, and only because I'd taken care of it with the same pride of ownership that we all do our 'Cades. That's all it takes to win, to be proud of our ride and to give the unexpected. In our case, the Cavalcade IS the unexpected, so let's all enter! Sarge: Thanks again for the incentive, and for sharing your win with us. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

For those interested in putting your cavalcade in bike shows: I enter mine at all the bike rallies I attend. Most times theyíre only a couple on display. Judging is very good and I have learned what they look for and sometimes they overlook the dirt depending on weather and road conditions. Judging is on a well-maintained machine, all lights are checked, brake fluid levels, mileage in comparison to age, and most of all OEM accessories, no J.C. Whitney. The most competition I've had is 5 Cades at once. There were others at the event but not entered. My wife and I drove to Abilene and visited the World of Wheels there and again had we entered the Cavalcade there was no doubt it would have won again. Next year I plan on attending all the World of Wheels events. Come on folks, most times its to cold in winter to ride so polish those beautiful machines up and lets show everyone how proud we are of what we ride, I will be looking for you at my next event. ~ Tom in Texas

FLOOR BOARDS

How's everyone ? I just received driver floorboards and they don't attach properly. I got them second hand and they are after market. If anyone else has them, can they tell me if they came with hardware? They originally came from MC Enterprises ? ~ Gerry in NY

Yes Gerry, I got a solid piece of flat stock and drilled the holes I needed. Then got longer bolts and put em on. Make sure you paint the steel before you put them on. It makes a lot nicer and stronger (I think) arrangement than using washers. Is it the shifter side you're having problems with? I had to put a spacer plate between the floorboard and the mounting on the bike. I used a solid piece with two holes drilled to accommodate the mounting bolts. My problem was the shifter hitting the side cover. Hope this helps. You might need the long threaded rod for the shifter also. ~ KennG

SCREW COVERS

I've lost some of the information ...that had been interchanged about the types of 'screw covers' that were being substituted for those lost from the chrome covers on the outside of the fairing just below the windshield. Having scanned the CD and my collection of fixes, I don't see either the originals or any suggestions for their replacements. Can anyone refresh my memory? ~ Andy, Midland, TX

If you go to sears hardware, they have black plastic covers that work well. I keep thinking they are 5/8th...but canít remember. We had the bike along the first time and they let us take a couple out until we found a couple that fit. Seems like they had metal one too. Has a great day ---Nancy :<)

94457-24A00 on page 59 of the parts book on the CD. ~ Tracy

CAVALCADE COOLANT CHANGE

Hi guys, Had to replace one of the coolant hoses. When I was done with it I put most of the coolant back in to the system . Went for a ride thinking that after engine worms up will suck the coolant in and then I will be able to add some more. WRONG. Temperature went almost all the way up to the red with the fan ON . Checked the coolant level and found out that didn't go down at all. The CD is recommending to take the bike to dealership because to change coolant on Cavalcade is " very difficult." Any words of wisdom ?? By the way, riding first time this year in nice sunny weather, 50 degrees is sure nice! Ride On, ~ Wojo 86LX/with the loud mufflers

I think if you can get the hose off you can easily change coolant the fluid goes in from the plastic reservoir on cool down. ~ Bdecker

HI Wojo, I think you got air in the system, after you add the coolant you have to leave the radiator cap off and idle the bike so as to purge the system of air. I had the same problem with my wing. ~ Bob Tooker

Wojo: When you re-add the coolant you have to fill it at the radiator CAP. Itís a process of 2-liter bottle rigged with a SMALL clear plastic hose( so ya can see it) and sort of gravity or siphon it in. THE hard part is getting the radiator cap OFF n on, I have been able to do my lx by removing the lower left fairing, and inserting a couple o fingers up around it. NOT un- accomplishable. after making sure the radiator is FULL, fill the tanks. YA CAN do it I GOT FAITH IN YA. DID mine twice in Myrtle Beach as the large tank developed the dreaded SPLIT SEAM SENARIO.

The reason that you can't start with an empty system and fill it at the overflow tank is that the line that REFILLS after an expansion is only about 1/4 inch if that. So when ya put it back together put the cap on and try to gravity feed into the radiator, pressures be what they may won't let it go, sort of like the old chicken waterers. then when ya ride it, what little water that's in the system turns into over pressure and it just won't pull a VACUME to pull it into the radiator. THINK ABOUT it if you were to pull your radiator hose off the old car you wouldn't fill it at the overflow tank, you'd take the cap off the radiator fill it there, fill the over flow to it's COLD level, THEN add as needed. AIN'T much difference JUST TWO WHEELS ALL I SEE. believe me the 2liter bottle rigged with a small plastic line is handy to have, some sort of nipple to slide it over and ya can SQUEEZE the bottle to force feed it. ~ WALTER IN MARYLAND

Herman, I had good luck filling the radiator by removing the left side vent on the lower cowl, reaching in, and removing the radiator cap. I filled through the plastic bottle on top and kept checking the level in the radiator. When the radiator was filled, I capped it up and filled the plastic tank to full mark. I used a one-liter soda bottle to keep track of how much went in. I also added a small can of Bars Leak from the auto to the first bottle of fluid I put in. Suzuki recommends it so I followed suit. Try it if you want...worked for me. ~ KennG, Geneva NY

Hi guys, Walter, you were so right. After reading few e-mails I started THINKING.......what a concept. Took me an hour to do what you guys told me to do. I had to take lower fairing off to get to radiator cap. Everything went great, and my 1hr test ride went very well. There was still plenty of sunshine. Thank you very much for quick response. !!!!! Every time I had to take a piece of fairing of, is like opening Pandoraís box. Broken parts missing / wrong screws etc. I wander if any of you have that perfect fairing ?? Well, I keep finding out that I don't........ I NEED left lower fairing !!!!!!! Anybody ??? Thank you again. Ride On ~ Wojo 86LX

AFTER MARKET RECTIFIER

Kenn: I think I read in the archives you had installed an after market rectifier on your bike. Is it working out OK? I've installed this voltmeter on my bike that actually shows the working voltage of the system. When I'm idling with all the lights on and trailer hooked-up OR NOT, the working voltage drops to 11.97 but soon as I get back some rpm it goes back up to 14 is this normal? Maybe someone else has a similar situation. HIGHWAY speeds FINE 14 volts. More curiosity than anything, the voltmeter is right on as I have double-checked the readings with a calibrated voltmeter. AND I don't have the dresser lights only stock LX + two 55watt highway lights. ~ WALTER n MARYLAND

No rectifier replacement here, after market or otherwise. Hopefully the one who did will get in touch. ~ KennG

Walter, That's pretty normal operation. ~ Tracy

Tracy: From all I've been able to learn about this electrical system I sort of figured it was about right, but just wanted to make sure. It makes you WONDER when you got the readings right in front of you, and see it drop off at idle, and build back up at rpm, and makes sense, looks like they could have tightened the drift on the regulator a smidgen. I won't get tinkeritius till she won't CHARGE one day. ~ THANKS TRACY! ~ Walter n Maryland

Walter, After replacing rectifier with a after market one I have around 14.9 at idle without my trailer and around 14.3 to 14.5 while traveling at highway speeds. However I just replaced my battery Friday and when I went to start it to go to church this A.M. the little battery on the dash came on for a split second. Had plenty of cranking power and it fired right up, I am in the process of monitoring the voltage to see if I might have a drain on the system somewhere else. Anybody had this problem before? I think I remember someone saying that they had to put a main disconnect in their system. ~ John in LA, 86 LXE

Walter, It's not drift in the regulator, it's output of the stator. At idle there's not enough AC coming from the stator to make that much DC voltage especially when there's a load (like lights) on it. We also have to think about the other end of the spectrum when that motor is cranking 4000 RPMs (or more) going down the road and making AC like crazy. Where does all that extra electrical power go? It has to be dissipated. It's a tradeoff. You don't make quite enough juice at idle, but you don't make too much running down the road. ~ Tracy

Walter: If you are sitting at a light and the fan kicks in with your break lights on, watch the voltage go down to almost 9 volts. This is normal. ~ Mike C. 86LX

I don't have the dresser lights only stock LX + two 55watt highway lights. ~ WALTER

Walter, I have been through this same thing myself. I had low volt readings, but only when I had the 55-watt driving lights turned on. I found out though that to get the most accurate volt reading, the volt meter needs to be hooked up to the battery. I had hooked it up to the fuse box "power screws" and was getting really low readings. It was less then 12 volts even going down the road at 60 mph if I had my driving lights turned on for more then 10 minutes. But as soon as I turned them off, the voltage would jump right back up to 14 volts. I thought I might have to do without my driving lights :-( I did some more checking and found that the driving lights were drawing 8.25 amps, which is a lot extra draw for the Cade. So I decided to hook them up so I can switch them off if needed. Then I bought and installed a permanent voltmeter to the battery, and my readings were a lot better, even when the driving lights were on for extended periods of time. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

SPARK PLUGS

Hello group, I remember reading that you can use spark plugs from a particular Acura car, anyone know exactly which car and year? I just went to the local Suzuki dealership here and they wanted 31 Dutch Guilders (about $14) a piece for their plugs, no thanks. Thanks ~ Chuck

Hi Chuck, That is cheap for the original plugs. In England I paid £69 for the four, $104 approximately 220 Dutch Guilders. ~ Dave UK

A plug that works well is NGK DPR8EA-9. They're about 2-3 bucks and they last well. ~ Gerry in NY

Hey Chuck, I don't know the exact model or year Acura (although I believe it was somewhat more current that my '86.) I just went into an auto parts store with the NGK model # for the plug, they found it on their computer, and the counter man said that this particular plug was used in automotive applications and wasn't just strictly a bike plug. They had to order it from another location, but I got charged around $4 US each (which is pretty painful for a car plug, but I couldn't have been happier.) Best part is they ordered a whole box from the other store, but never counted how many plugs come in the carton (the weight should have tipped them off...) I ended up with 12 NGK-Rs for under $20 : ) ~ BobG 86 GD

The part number for Champion spark plugs for the Cavalcade is RA8HC. These are exact replacements for the very expensive NGK or Nippon Denso plugs. In Canada they cost about $4 each. I have been using them for about 25,000 km and no problems. ~ Mike

Mike (and everyone who replied), Thanks for the info. I plan on doing a minor tune-up (oil & filter, plugs, etc) , hopefully my local AAFES will have those plugs in stock. By the way, I found a good web site for ordering replacement parts for the cade."www.bikebandit.com/PartsBandit/" actually lists parts for our beast. The site lets you view a scanned copy of the parts book to get part numbers and then search their site for prices. I have not actually ordered from them yet, but it is nice to find a site that that acknowledges our bike exists. Thanks again, ~ Chuck Brunssum, NL

If anyone wants the correct spark plug for the Cade, the one with the funny tip. They are NGK pjr7a, chrome n stuff in Nashville, TN. Has them for $11.99 + shipping and if you tell Gary you are with the Cavalcade Club he will discount them. Chrome n stuff 1-615-847-0637 www.chromenstuff.com depending on Gary's supplier for a given item, he normally discounts 5 to 20%. ~ Bill Brooks, 86lx dark cherry, The Tennessee Lightshow.

Bill & all, I have found Autolite 4164, has them for $1.30 pr. plug. I think they will be all right. Dennis R.

List of plugs that will work in the Cade: Here are plug types that are used in 86 LXE: Denso X22EPR-GL NGK PJR7A or DPR8EA SPLITFIRE SF416D Champion SERIES 810 plug type RA8HA Sockets most are 18MM, Champion are 16MM

~ Robert Lashua

REMOVING THOSE FORK CAPS

Can fork caps be removed in the frame was a question that I didn't see answered. Maybe I missed it but anyway the answer is yes. The way I do it is, block up the bike so the front wheel can drop down to remove spring tension. Push wheel down as far as it will go and very carefully block between fender and frame. This will allow you to remove and install caps without losing your patience. I use a small 12 volt pump to pump out the oil. Then remove springs to avoid a oily mess. I measured the springs in my '88LX at 40,000 miles and they were at max. length. If you are happy with the bike's ride then go back with the same amount of oil. Save the oil from each fork and measure the amount. If not you can use the factory specs. Have fun! ~ LU

 

ANDYíS RESTORATION

As was commented on earlier, I don't think that there's a complete fairing (nuts, bolts, screws, etc.) anywhere now except for those on the still-crated 'Cades that I've heard rumors about. I've learned to keep a small notebook in my toolbox - when I see something that is missing or needs to be replaced, I make a note of it so I don't forget. ~ I've also been working on My Toy's electrical system just these past few days, and have noticed that everything under the plastic is covered with 15 years' worth of dust and grime. It's together now, without the plastic and with the saddlebags just laid in their cradles (for brake lights) so I can take it today to a local detail shop for steam cleaning. I think the $15-$20 will be well worth it, and may even make things easier to find. Just hope I don't get stopped and ticketed for Ugly while on the way there! ~ And if I haven't said so lately, this is by far the greatest group of guys and gals that I've ever been associated with. The combined knowledge here is unbelievable, as my Cavalcade Archives can attest. Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge, adventures and misadventures. I look forward every day to my E-mail. ~ Some time ago, either via this Digest or in the Chat Room, there was mention of someone having adapted the Air Dam (under the radiator) from an early GoldWing to a 'Cade. Does anyone remember the specifics? Andy Midland, TX

Kenn: The bars you added was it the type with the pellets in it? This discussion had come up once before, and I am aware that pop Suzuki says to add it. But, I just never had the nerve to run those pellets through my water pump. I am going to change the anti freeze this riding season, and will though. I might try running it through an old blender with some boiling water. Iím full of tricks. Iíve added it to autos but not my bike. As a matter of fact, last freeze change I did use that alumna seal stuff (real fine aluminum dust like) because of the pellets. There have questions come up in the past, auto versa bike anti freeze. I have always used auto grade, they say you shouldn't because of the silicaís (cleaning agents in STD auto grade)I have always made sure it was for aluminum blocks and radiators. I really think this year when the change is made I will go for the silica free, as it is more readily available now. anyway about the bars rabbit s___ or not. PS: I guess I should put the blender on frappe?? Or liquefy ??? ~ Walter in Maryland

I was really afraid that Bars leak was the same pellet stuff I remembered. I was surprised to find it in a nicer form. Almost a powder. Mixed pretty well with the fluid I started with ( 50/50 anti freeze and water) and ran through the hoses well. Filled the radiator, put the cap back on, filled the plastic reservoir, buttoned it up and done. Ran around a little to warm it up and checked level again. Added a little more and haven't touched it for almost a year and a half. Done deal my friend. ~ KennG

BACK REST

Is there any body out there in the group that might know where I may be able to find a back rest for my Cade or is there one that might interchange with it your help will be very much app. I find one in the home page but I donít want to cut in my seat to make it work. Not only that it is high enough for the support I need. ~ Bob

Bob: You going to Americade? There are several after-market seat manufacturers that show there. None actually stock seats for the Cade, but may be able to create one for you, including a custom backrest. Of course itís not going to be cheapÖ I may be investigating that possibility next yearÖ ~ Brian

CAVALCADE REVIEWS

Please send your comments to Alan Morris and he lives in Toronto, Canada. He is seeking information on the reliability of the Cavalcade. Alan is not yet a member of this ownerís group. Thanks, Jay

Hi Alan, I live in the UK and there is very little difference in the weather conditions on the whole. I have found the Cade to be a very reliable bike for me. I have owned this one for 4 years with no problems at all. I have the bike serviced after 4500 miles, the tyre, Metzelers have 12000 miles on them and are not yet ready for replacement. So all in all the Cade is as reliable as all the Suzuki's that I have owned, I don't ride any other make because of their reliability. If you do ride one you will fall in love with it. The Cade has character unlike most bikes. ~ Dave

And it feels great to ride; sat on a new Venture yesterday and while the seat is plush, the bike just felt funny. Hard to describe, but I felt cramped. 'Course, at 6'3" and 295#, I'm a hard fellow to fit. After I had my seat altered, it now fits just fine. Anything else is strange. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

CAVALCADE RADIO/CASSETTE PLAYER SPEAKERS

Hi All, There has been some discussion regarding the type and availability of replacement speakers for out bikes, and one of the comments was that the cones of the speakers should not be paper (i.e., water-resistant). I did some investigation of the Replacement Speakers that are stocked at JCW, and found these which seem to meet our requirements (both inexpensive and reliability). http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=93840 http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=29393 http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=27449 http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=687 These are paper, but they're CHEAP: http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=4127 For me, I'd prefer either JDC or Jensen. But then again, if I'm using my headsets all of the time, the cheapies would work just as well. After all, if they're never played, what does quality of sound matter? ~ Andy Midland, TX

For weather resistant check out ones for a Marine application they should hold up on a bike. ~ Walter in Maryland

Andy, I picked up a pair of Jensen's at Wal-Mart for my brother in law's Cade for about $35.00. Sound great.....to early to tell how they will hold up to the weather. ~ Dennis

How does one get to and remove the rear speakers? I have tried several options and canít figure it out. They need replacement BADLY!! ~ Brian

Brian, From the CD/ROM, it looks as if the speaker covers lift/slide upward on the headrest bracket. It shows no screws, so I'm assuming that it's a similar type of fit. ~ Andy

 

Brian, Just pry off the speaker covers; they're held in place by grommets. Then there are 4 screws that can be removed and the speaker just pops out. Not sure how stock speakers are connected, but the previous owner of my bike soldered Radio Shack speakers to the connecting wires. Check clearance behind for replacements. ~ Andy

 

Brian, From the CD, it looks as if the speaker covers lift/slide upward on the headrest bracket. It shows no screws, so I'm assuming that it's a similar type of fit. ~ Andy

 

You have to remove the passenger backrest, remove the staples from the seatback cover (carefully!) and then peel most of the cover off. The foam cushion can be removed, 6 or 8 pop rivets need to be drilled out, the seat comes apart in two or three pieces, and then you can get at the speaker box. It is NOT an easy repair!

CAUTION! Obtain some speakers first before dismantling! The speakers used are 3 inches in diameter and are VERY hard to find. Most stereo after-market speakers are 3.5 inches and will not fit! Suzuki parts are worth about $250 each (Canadian money) which is astronomical! I found a set of 3 inch speakers in a discontinued Radio Shack speaker system generally used for CD players / computers. However, they are paper cones and I'm not confident they are all that waterproof, so I protect them as much as possible from the elements and bike washes. Also, you'll have to play around with the speaker mountings. I glued my new ones in. The original Clarion speakers are assembled by sandwiching the plastic speaker box. I had to break the speakers in two to remove them from the speaker box. ~ Don Sellers


I just purchased a set of J& M speakers. These are waterproof, and have a lifetime warranty with them. Purchased them from Sierra Electronics for $69.95. Had a set of Jensons, which were suppose to be waterproof but they didn't hold up much past a year or so. I don't have them in yet, but will give an update when I do. ~  Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, South Bend, IN

That's a good price. J&M's web site has a price of over $100.00 ~ Andy

I believe that Sierra Electronics was selling water-resistant speakers that fit our machines. Someone in the group picked them up. ~ Gerry in NY

Alan, Regarding the quality of speakers, hereís something to consider. Maybe itís just because I make my living by recording sound, but I always look for the best quality for any audio equipment. That includes the speakers in my motorcycle. Hereís a short story that makes my point. A few years ago on our tour of the Canadian Rockies National Parks, I was having morning coffee at my tent in the Tunnel Mountain Campground near Banff. It was a gorgeous sun-lit day with the scent of pine in the air. Iíd popped a stereo cassette of light classical piano music into the Cavalcade and turned up the speakers. The notes resounding from the bikeís faring sounded like there was a grand piano sitting there. It was late enough in the morning that I figured everyone within earshot was awake and up. I have high fidelity speakers both in front and in the passenger position. The music filled the crisp morning mountain air and probably carried further than I knew. In a few minutes a sleepy head popped out of a near-by tent and a young man looked around for the source of the music. "Oh gosh" said I, "Iím sorry about the music. I thought everyone would be up by now." "Oh no!" said he, "Donít be sorry. Itís awesome! This is the first morning of our honeymoon! To wake up surrounded by this scenery and that music is like being in a dream. What could be a better memory? We just couldnít believe it was real." So, maybe if you just listen to Rap or $3 C&W tapes, it doesnít matter what quality speakers are in your bike. But, if you ever listen to anything of even average quality when youíre not wearing your helmet, youíll be glad you spend a few bucks more. Just remember though, if you ever pull up next to the Hellís Angels, the sound carries. So turn off the Julio Iglesias tape! ~ Jay 86 LXE "Blue on Blue" Sammamish, Washington USA

Jay, Would you mind sharing the brand and model number of the speakers you installed in your Cade? Are you using a power booster or just the stock radio/tape deck? I appreciate good audio equipment myself. I'm a little hard of hearing and need the best sound quality to be able to hear the complete spectrum of the recordings. Thanks, ~ David, 86 LXE

David, No power booster, just the standard Clarion Sound System. It has been so many years ago when I put the speakers in, I've forgotten the brand. I bought them here in Seattle at a company called Radar Electric which is a supplier of professional sound equipment. They were designed for use in outdoor stereos. The cones were made of a waterproof material. As someone else has written, the passenger speakers are only three inches in diameter, so you have to be sure they will fit before you purchase them. ~ Jay

As a new member I would like to say what a great site. I have owned a Cade for 10 years of very enjoyable riding & I am very happy to find a support group as good as this one is. Thanks for all the input. I would like to add a comment about speakers that may or may not be of help. Several years ago I made a pair of outdoor speakers for my home stereo. Since I admit to be rather conservative I did not want to shell out the big bucks for weatherproof speakers. After experimentation I bought some good quality paper speakers & sprayed them liberally with "Scotch-guard". They were never sheltered or brought in during winters & survived quite well for several years. The scotch-guard does not apparently affect the pliability or other characteristics of the paper speakers. I have never attempted to do the same for motorcycle speakers but it may be worth consideration. Thanks again. ~ Darryl Coons

OTHER RADIO RELATED

Hi Guys, Well I'm hooking up my after-market CB to work with my headsets. I've dug through the archives and searched through the Cade CD and got most of my info, but still need more. All my questions are pertaining to the 8 pin din plug coming from the radio that is meant for hooking up the Suzuki CB unit to. Pin 6 says it's for "CB Remocon 12v", is this the hot wire for the CB unit? Pin 8 says it's for "CB mic. (earth)", is this the mic. pos. or ground, and which pin is the other? Pin 4 says it's for "push to talk", does this get 12v pos. to power a relay in the radio to switch between intercom and CB? On my CB unit I have connections for an external mic. and speaker, so that part is easy. Now I need to know where to hook these 4 wires and how to get the push to talk button to switch the mic. from intercom to CB. I have Rick and Mike's info, but I think this will be easier then cutting into my headset connections. If we can get this figured out, I will post complete directions for the rest of you that might want to try to add a CB this way. Thanks a bunch and I know I'll be hearin' from ya'll. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

DAYTONA BIKE WEEK

To our Florida brothers and sisters, I've just received this month's Motorcyclist (AMA monthly magazine) which gives a complete schedule of events in Daytona. The biggest surprise is (and I guess I've been hiding behind a tree somewhere) that there are lots of activities to keep someone simple like me somewhat busy. First is the big Swap Meet, a first there. Second is the International Motorcycle Show. And finally, the Boardwalk Bike Show. The Swap Meet is one of 4 AMA-sanctioned Swap Meets that I'm aware of. As such, and in light of its Daytona venue, this will probably be a big event. It would be worth going to in order to see if any stuff for our bikes might be available. 614-856-1900 ext. 1227 The International Show might just hold surprises for us. Well, we can at least hope, can't we? And the Boardwalk Bike Show allows anyone interested to enter their bike. 904-253-0254 I wish I could be there. Andy Midland, TX

 

ANTIQUE HARLEY

I love my Cade, but I've also had this baby for 25 years now. She's been sitting in the back of the barn for 4-5 years gathering rust and dirt. I brought her up front, tacked up a sheet of plastic to make a dust-free area, and put her up on the Cade's lift. ~ I expect to clean her up, paint back to the original deep red, and replace all the wiring (all 12 wires!). It cracks me up to work on the '49 Harley after working on the '86 Cade, they are orders of magnitude in difference. For those not versed in antique Harleys, one thing to note is the hand shifter along the left side of the gas tank. ~ Specs: 1949 / FL / 4-Speed / Rigid Frame This was the second year of the Panhead and the first year for Hydra Glide. The previous front suspensions were a double spring arrangement. This front end though primitive by today's standards was quite an improvement over the old system. ~ Chuck

 

RIDING CLASS

Just finished my 2nd ERC yesterday evening. Interesting, to say the least - I'd not practiced TIGHT right turns in a while! We started at 8AM - it was 27* when I got out of bed in the morning, and made 32* by the time I left for the location of the course (20 mi. away in Odessa, TX). The classroom stuff was interesting, and the 2nd video had what looked to be a Cavalcade (Blue or Black), as seen from the rear. It was an elevated shot, from a distance, but looked like one of ours. The riding element was fun, and was work. Skill refreshment was the reason I took the course again, and it was worthwhile. Still need to practice those tight turns, though. Was more tired than I thought I would be when I got back home last night, so I know I worked at it. ~ Andy Midland, TX

 

CALIPER SPRINGS

I was going to put, front brakes to day. But them little springs went flying. Any one have any extra front caliper springs? Also my clock will not set or read. Anyone have an idea? Well, all was not lost. The bike fired for the 1st time in 5 or 6 years. It needs some love & adjusting. PS. Iím looking for a luggage rack! ~ Dennis

Yea, those caliper springs are a lively bunch Ė just waiting to get lost. Sorry, I donít have any extras, but I would think they are available from the dealer. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Dennis, Congratulations on your big event. I know it is a big deal to get your bike to run after setting so long. I hope it all goes well for you & the Cade. Looking forward to riding with you soon. ~ Darryl

SNIFF?

Hello All, I am having a problem that someone may be able to help with. This past summer I had all of the engine seals on my Cade replaced. Since then after the bike warms up and I come to a stop I notice a smell of gear lube. Any ideas on what this might be? I can take the bike back to the Suzuki shop that replaced the seals but there is a lot more expertise in this group than at that dealer. ~ Bob Morse 86LX

Check archives for bad, funny, strong odors. The intermediate gearbox breather tube could be dripping onto the exhaust chamber. Check intermediate gear box seals in archives also. All the questions are answered there or in the Suzuki cavalcade web site. ~ Walter

It's possible one of the seals was not installed properly. However, finding it can be fun. Where is it coming from, the top or the bottom of the engine? ~ Gerry in NY

I had and am still having the oil smell problem, BUT I know what's causing it. I sent you an earlier e-mail and if you look in the archives at it, it shows you where the breather tube is located. I just wanted to let you know that the breather tube for the INTERMEDIATE gearbox allows GEAR OIL to drip onto the exhaust collector box under the bike. YOU may just have an overfill of the gearbox IF an inexperienced mechanic refilled the intermediate gearbox. However, if he pulled the gearbox OFF to replace the driveshaft seal, and DID NOT replace the clutch shaft and the main shaft seals, you may have the same problem that I am having. If I were you, I would make sure the intermediate gearbox IS NOT overfilled by checking it as explained in the message. I am going to include my personal E-mail address so if you need any assistance I might be of help as I sort of feel I know the ins and outs of this problem. The message also explains how to distinguish between seal#1 and seal#15 failure, Hope I can be of help to you, I'm going to tear mine apart in the next few weeks and REPLACE ALL OF THEM this time. GOOD LUCK, hope you only have an overfill problem. ~ Walter

I had the same problem at speed (60 - 70 mph). I just added a section of plastic tubing to the existing breather tube and routed it to the back of the bike along the swingarm. No more smell!

Also, I switched to synthetic gear lube this past summer. No Smell! The dino stuff stinks and the synthetic doesn't. 2 fixes to try! ~ Don Sellers

Don: I was more concerned as to where and from what the gear oil was coming from. As if it's filled properly, there should be NO gear oil out that breather tube. If itís constantly overfilling from the engine, you will eventually blow the rear seal out, then what? If you're on a tour? If that gearbox runs dry and seizes at 70-mph make sure you hang on tight, as the clutch in neutral wonít even help ya. ~ Walter

The problem points to the seal between the transfer box and the engine. The output shaft transfers oil along its self to oil the bearing. The seal is there to stop it pushing engine oil into the transfer box. As your speed increases the oil pressure builds up and if the seal was dry or pinched at reassemble it will pressurize the transfer box forcing oil up the breather and if you lucky not on to the rear tyre (result obvious) but on to the exhaust hence the smell. If the bearing is good the job takes about 2hrs and 40 dollars (NZ) to fix. Keep an eye on engine oil levels as seal may let go altogether and it will pump the oil out in about 5 miles (this is experience talking) ~ Steve, 86LX Blue on Blue, New Zealand

I had the same problem when I first bought my Cade (Fall of 85). There was a recall on the first few Cades for the oil leaking from the engine into the transfer case. After three seal replacements did not help, (It wasn't bad, just a nuisance and smelly. An old lawn mower mechanic suggested that we try using an Ester based oil, as this somehow makes seals swell. After about a 100 miles it quit leaking and has not done it since. May be worth a try, cause you never know? ~ Bill Brooks, 86 LX Dark Cherry, the Tennessee Light-Show

Seems as though I read somewhere in the archives that there was a brown one and a black one, one of them was the bad one, ANYONE heard of this? Is there any way we or I could find out about factory recalls on this bike or Maintenance recalls? ~ Walter.

Yes, I went through that last year; it was the seal from the secondary gearbox to the shaft. After a while, you would see oil coming from the bottom of the gearbox. If the mechanic changed three seals, that should have been one of them, however the swing arm has to be removed to do it. ~ Gerry in NY

Just thought I'd let you all know I answered my own question went to archives typed in brown seal black seal and FOUND THEM, ALONG WITH SOME other good info. For anyone interested it's ARCHIVE #10682. ~ Walter n Maryland

In your Suzuki repair manual section 4-19 is the picture and text of the breather circuit of gear case. If all passages are clear and open the circuit should work as intended. If you are really hot dogging it on a twisty road for many miles the oil level will change and oil may flow out into air passage. It should separate from air and return to gear case through oil passage. It is possible that the oil will not have time to separate from air and will go out through vent. With this system you will have oily odors depending on type of oil used and maybe slight oil seepage. ~ LU

Bill, Do you recall the oil that you used in the secondary box? You referenced an ester-based oil, but I am not familiar with these. ~ CCook

We did not put the Ester based oil in the sec. box, but it was engine oil. Ester based oil are usually made from something like the castor bean, and in checking a little more I have found out that it is a fact that they do tend to cause gaskets to swell, where as a APO based oil causes gaskets to shrink. I have used the Klotz 15-50 and have been quite happy with it. I have also tried the Redline 15-50 at one time, but if you use the Redline oil you need to have a clutch in " good " working order, as the Redline oil is so slick, if your clutch is not so good, it will really slip. Which is why I changed to a Barrnett clutch. ~ Bill Brooks

Bill: What is a Barnett clutch and how can I get info on it? Thanks, ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Barnett is an after market parts company, they have been making motorcycle clutches for about 50 (?) years. They make replacement clutches for just about any motorcycle ever made and are usually superior to OEM, very positive and durable. Although I would suggest if you ever change to a Barnett, that you replace all the plates and springs with the Barnett products. I believe they can be ordered from drag or competition accessories catalogs. If you don't have a dealer that can order from these catalogs, contact Gary at chrome and stuff: www.chromenstuff.com. 1-615-847-0637. Note: under normal conditions it is not unusual for a bike like a Cavalcade to get 100,000 miles from a clutch, unless you are like me and pull trailers constantly, especially like my camper weighing around 450lbs. Loaded. ~ Bill Brooks, 86lx Dark Cherry

 

My Cade sure helps me in getting through the winters here. Not in riding it but in doing some kind P.M. project. At seventy years it is getting harder, but I'm hanging in there. Just takes longer, like all winter. Last winter I removed the complete exhaust system and replaced all seals and gaskets. A lot of rust was on the pre-muffler, so I sanded and painted it. I don't want that to go bad, as I am sure that itís pricey, if it's available. Also, a good time to really clean and shine the pipes and mufflers. With the exhaust system out of the way I removed the starter, disassemble it and performed the required maintenance (brushes, commentator, seal, O-rings and lubrication). Engine now starts quicker and quieter. It was a good time for me to check all vent hoses and wires to make sure hoses were open and located where they are supposed to be. Also, taped wires where needed to prevent them rubbing through and cause future problems. This winter I've hardly touched the bike other than changing the oil two times which I like to do to keep the condensation out. Also, I start it each week and let it get up to operating temperature and put it in gear and move it back and forth. I'm thinking Spring now and my Cade and I are anxious to roll. ~ Lu, 88LX

Lu, I'm getting ready to do some exhaust work on my Cade this weekend. When I had the local bike shop change my rear tire last year, I think they unbolted the left muffler and let it hang off the collector box. Over the summer, the collector box started to crack around the outlet to the left muffler. Do you have any tips or tricks that you learned when doing your exhaust? Was it difficult to remove the 2 rear exhaust pipes from the cylinder heads? Did the collector box come loose from the front exhaust pipes very easily? Did you have to remove the center stand? Any info that you can give would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks in advance, ~ Dave in Mass 86 LXE Blue

Dave, Have fun and be careful I had to replace the collector last year. I couldnít get bolts out they will break probably need new clamps and the whole deal is pricey. I couldnít get my hands in there I ended up taking it to Suzuki for a $250.00 repair bill for labor only ~ Chopper

HI Dave, The most difficult part of the job was in removing and installing the rear exhaust pipes at engine. Not much room for big hands and little tools. Good idea to spray bolts and all parts where they connect with penetrating oil. A hex socket worked for me. If you are removing pre-muffler for repairs as you stated you don't have to remove rear pipes from engine. All bolts came out with no trouble and pipes and mufflers came apart with no damage to them. A nice surprise when you do exhaust work. I had my Cade on center stand and the pre- muffler came down and out ok. Be aware of 4 spacers at front pipes and engine and proper installation to avoid exhaust leak. If you do remove the complete system, at assembly, align all pipes and mufflers and then tighten bolts and clamps to avoid future problems. There are 12 seals and gaskets at cost of $75.You can E-mail me at home if you wish to. ~ Lu

HI Gerry' Thanks for your remarks. They mean a lot to me because my brother is now in hospital after having a stroke. This really reinforces my remark about my hanging in there and riding as long as I can put my leg over the seat and ride in a safe manner. We don't know when we will lie down to stay. ~ Lu

Youíre welcome. My father has been in and out of the hospital many times in the last 6 years. If he were better, he would be riding the Cade and not me. It was his first. Keep on riding, my friend. ~ Gerry in NY

WHEEL BEARING HOWL

Has anyone had to change the front wheel bearing due to howling, if so were they able to get factory parts? I also noticed today that my front brake was weak... after several pumps it got stiffer to pull.... After riding it for a while taking it to my warehouse, I noticed brake fluid from the front brake reservoir... has anyone had this problem? If so did they rebuild the master cylinder? ~ Rod, 86 Cade...

Rod, be sure and check the speedo gear drive, mine went out this past fall. It could make the noise you are experiencing ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, South Bend, IN


THIS MONTHíS NL HAS A HAPPY ENDING

Hi Gang, I've just checked with K&N Engineering about the availability of Air Filters for the Suzuki Cavalcade. You're not going to believe this. It seems that they started a "Rebuild Department" for air filters that were no longer in production. The customer would send in the old filter, then K&N would rebuild the old filter, using the customerís frame. Our rebuilds were $41.00 each. ~ The gentleman I spoke with told me that the "word got out" and business really picked up. They got so many orders that they couldn't keep up with them, so they closed the department. ~ Hmmm, is that how business works? I've always wondered about that. Once business really picks up, you have to go out of business. I guess America Online is next, because their business is booming. I think I missed something. Starting to get a headache thinking about this concept. I've got it! I must've been absent that day when they covered this in college. I feel better now. Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

Hey Guys, The air filter is still available through dealers for our bikes. I just bought one last summer and only paid $38.00 (not that this is cheap, but cheaper then $41.00 through K&N). I also ordered one through Amsoil for $41.00 and will never need to buy another the rest of the bike's life, seeing how this one is washable and re-useable. Just for your information. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX