The Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

Issue #8 ~ March, 2001

Jay D. Johnson, Editor


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This yearís Americade begins at Lake George, NY on Monday, June 4, 2001. Americade has become the world's largest multi-brand motorcycle touring rally, now drawing nearly 50,000. It's a convention of riders and passengers who enjoy riding touring, sport touring and cruising motorcycles. For complete information, go to the following URL: Here you can download a printable 2001 Fact Sheet, Registration & Schedule. You will find an online 2001 Registration Form Scroll through & click on the features. Pricing info & options for Americade Week.


Cavalcade riders who plan to attend can co-ordinate through Cheryl at


The dates for this yearís tour of the Canadian Rocky Mountain National Parks are July 28th through August 5th. Registration is $25.00 for bike & rider and $15 for a passenger. T-shirt or polo shirt included. For info, email For photo preview go to this URL:

CADE RAID ~ 2002
The International Rally for Cavalcades

CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri. You can visit their web site at

There are 50 rooms blocked for our group and I suggest you get your reservation in early. The toll-free phone number is 1-800-942-3553. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Ownerís Group meeting ("CADE RAID 2002") to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a tentative rate of $55.00 per night. They do not expect this to change. However they will not be able to guarantee this rate until the end of this year. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. You can change your mind later if thereís a significant change. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer.

We are planning a dinner with a program for Wednesday evening. The cost and program for that evening will be announced later. We will have a speaker and maybe even some trophies (most miles, most lights, whatever) and maybe some entertainment. It depends on what you folks want. We are limited to 100 people at the dinner.

We want to have some trade show exhibits. There will be a fee to exhibitors to help pay for costs of the event. (There are always unexpected costs.) Any ideas on businesses to contact regarding exhibits are welcome.

WHY SCHEDULE IT FOR MID-SEPTEMBER? This is a good time to visit Branson. It is just before their high season, which gives us better rates. (The weather is not as good earlier.) I set the dates mid-week to give everyone in the country weekend travel days. (Coming & going)

WHY BRANSON? Central location! Most folks can get there in two or three days. Great country for riding motorcycles. World-class entertainment, itís the new home of country music. Economical prices, some of the lowest costs in the country for similar facilities. Nearby campgrounds, those who prefer to camp can still be close to the group.

Letís do it! Donít you want to meet all these email names we read every day and see all these beautiful Cavalcades? Call the Honeysuckle Inn now at 1-800-942-3553 and get your room booked. We only have a limited number of rooms. If we get enough people booked early, we can increase the size of our room block. Later those extra rooms will not be available. Donít delay! ~ Cade Raid 2002


Riders, Iím very interested in a "Cade Raid" in Branson, Mo. in 2002. I live approximately 1-1/2 to 2 hrs away in Springdale, AR. I could help with any local arrangements or whatever I could do to be of assistance. Let's see what happens. Have a great day in your neighborhood. Oh, by the way we had a very nice ride Sunday. The temperature was in the mid-50's with the sun shining, not bad. All you northern "Yankees" need to know I have only 1 extra bedroom & my mother-in-law is presently occupying that. ~ Darryl

Darryl, Please send photo of mother-in-law!

To anyone interested, I just found this ad for a motorcycle rally in Branson, MO. in the "Cruising Rider" magazine. It's the first annual Branson Motorcycle Rally. Their web site is interesting to those who never heard of Branson, MO. ~ Art in IN 86 LX

We have made our reservations for the Cade Raid 2002 hope to see you there ~ Tom & Jeanie


There will be a breakfast meeting for all Northwest Cavalcade Owners at 8:30 Sunday morning April 22nd at the Holiday Inn in Everett, Washington. Rick Gervasi of Gervasi Cycle Repair will be there to talk Cavalcades and answer your questions. We have invited about 17 Northwest Cade owners who are not yet part of our group. This meeting is open to all Cavalcade owners and those who wish they were. ~ Jay D. Johnson, Sammamish, Washington

Hi Jay, Is there any chance that this Holiday Inn would have capability to set you up with conference calling? If you are reserving a separate room, and they have capability, I for one would be interested in listening in on Rick's comments. I have called him a couple times this past year and he has been, not only gracious, but also completely accurate each time. I suppose it would also mean identifying a specific slot of time for a more formalized discussion, if this is not in keeping with your intents please disregard and I will just be jealous of your time with Rick and the chance to ride your bikes. We are completely white here still and probably are not done just yet. If this works out, are there additional costs involved? If so, let's discuss options/ideas. ~ Chuck

Chuck, Itíll be a lot easier for me to just record it and make a cassette recording available to those who want it. ~ Jay


Concerning the touring of the Bay area around San Francisco this summer, the possibilities are endless. The wineries of Napa Valley offer magnificent scenery and the friendliest people I have ever met (I am originally from Chicago). Highway 29 from Napa to Calistoga offers a great mountain view and some wide open twisting roads. Yountville, Oakville, St.Helena and Calistoga all have any number of B&B s. I am not sure about camping facilities. One featured trip which is biker-friendly is to the Union Hotel in Occidental CA just about 1 hour north of San Francisco. Check out Our local biker paper can be accessed at Other sights include Sebastapol, Bodega Bay, Sonoma County and northern Highway 1 along the coast. When you are ready to come to CA let me know. We can hook up for a day or two of riding and sampling wine and food throughout the valley. Hope this helps, ~ Ed in Napa

Hey Caders, Just listening to like minded bikers, and I want to extend the Left Coast invite to consider contacting all of us out west. We can help coordinate your ride and sneak out for a few miles ourselves! I live in Winters, just over the hill from Napa. We have a ranch next to Lassen Volcanic Natl. Park. I'm sure we could co-ordinate a Cade ride to the Peak. Best to you and yours Bill the Fish Guy <:]{{{{{=<~~~


Hello, Beth wanted me to post this message to see if anyone is interested in sharing a weekend on Cape Cod in September the Fri and sat after Labor Day. We will be there with the GWTA but would like to show them boys the Cavalcade is alive and well and still just as good as there Hondas the hotel is $53.00 for Fri and Sat and $39.00 for any other night. Last year we had 20 bikes and had a swell time. We will be doing a poker run to Providence Town (thatís a hoot by its self) and a whale watching boat cruise as well as loads of other things to do. is the hotel check it out and let me know what you think but plan to have fun. Thanks ~ Chopper, Email:


For those in the club that want to know more about the Cade, i just received a book consisting of 10 articles and 110 pages on the cavalcade as it held up against the Honda, Kawasaki and HD. These are copies of the original reports of the leading magazines in 85 thru 87. Some seem repetitive, but if you're like me you'll enjoy every line. Go to and for $19.00 you can get a copy and for only $14. For any second copy of another bike. Believe me it makes great reading. ~ Larry


According to an expert writer in Rider magazine I now know that I am the owner and rider of a DEFUNCT motorcycle. My dictionary tells me that my Cade is 'dead' 'extinct' and deceased. I never had so much fun with something dead. ~LU


BobL found this information listed in a Gold Wing site. It looks like he fabricates any part if needed: "Offering state-of-the-art machine shop services any questions/requests/quotes... If you ever needed/required any parts or products fabricated from stainless steel, aluminum, galvanized, or any other type of metal. We are located in Delaware, USA." ~ James Williams,


I have a radio that only plays AM but the FM doesn't work. Has anyone had this problem or know what is typically the cause? Iíd like to know before I start to disassemble the radio. ~BDecker


Hate to say it, but sounds like itís time to replace the buttons. Or you can send it in to get it done. Check for places that do it. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

I have an '86 LX with over 60k on it and my radio is fine. But, all this talk about the switches has me worried about how long that's going to last. What's the story on these switches? And, where do you get the replacements that seem so necessary? Maybe I'll just get some and make the change before my radio goes down. ~ Jim in Utica, Ohio '86 LX

Any Cavalcade Clarion radio that still has the original switches is over-due for replacements. I know!  I have one! Luckily mine is still hanging in there. But it has always been garaged and was in my hall closet for the many months of my Cade's rebuild. But, I know it is only a matter of time... ~ Jay, Sammamish, WA


Well folks (and folkettes), I just replaced all the buttons in my radio tonight (my HS selection was stuck in the On position) and let me tell you WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I didn't know the radio got that loud! I was VERY pleased with my effort. Now, as soon as we tunnel out of all this snow, I'll be able to hear it out on the open road (along with those air horns!). ~ The repair took less than two hours (closer to one) and was very simple, but time-consuming. If anyone needs tips or help, I am now a self-certified Suzuki Clarion radio button-replacement expert - feel free to ask. And Ken, I am working on the light department. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


To whoever wants a Suzuki CB antenna, They are still available through the dealers. Part # - 39260-24A01 cost is between $76.00 - 87.00 I ordered mine through for $76.46 with free shipping. Hope this helps out. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Unless you just have to have a Suzuki antenna for your CB, J&M makes replacements for motorcycle CB's, for anywhere from $39 to $49, depending on the dealer you use. These are the fold down antennas just like the original and are pre-matched. ~ Bill Brooks

Hey, this is Travis, the guy who has been fixing all the radios for the Cade. In a fortunate/unfortunate item, I have sold my cavalcade and will no longer be able to test the radios before I send them out so I am going to stop doing it all together with rather than risk it. I can send you instructions if you want in fact I will put them in this email at the end so you can copy and paste them onto the site. Thanks a lot and I hope you all continue to enjoy your Cades. Ride in the wind! ~ Travis

OK... please note each style of screw when you remove it as there are several kinds in the radio and they need to go back where they came from...

Remove radio from bike (easy part).

Remove 2 screws from each handle on radio.

Remove 2 screws from each side of radio about mid way down.

Remove 6 screws that hold the casing to the radio (turn radio face down and you will see them).

Remove 4 screws from back of radio that hold the wiring harness to the casing.

You should be able to remove the case from the radio now.

Remove 8 screws that hold the radio faceplate to the body of the radio. These screws are sort of recessed into the faceplate on the backside... once again put the radio on its face to do this.

Remove the 3 tape player buttons from the faceplate. So this carefully as they can break and that is a pain to fix.

The faceplate should come off now.

You will now see four wiring plus that need to be unplugged two on the radio and two on the faceplate you should now have the faceplate in your hands separate from the radio.

All the switches are in the faceplate. They will look a little different from the ones you are getting from Digikey but that is a good thing. They work.

You will see several circuit boards in the faceplate. All of these will need to be unscrewed and/or de-soldered into place so you can get to the switches in the backsides.

Now comes the fun part (ha ha) de solder all the old switches carefully, and put the new ones into their places.

Make sure you solder the new ones in solidly so they make good contact.

Trim the extra length of the switches off after soldering them in.

Note. To get to either 6 or 8 of them I can remember which, you will have to de-solder the shield on the back side of the board don't forget to put this shield back when you are done.

Put the radio back together just like it came apart. Being careful to remember to plug the 4 wiring harnesses back in before you put the faceplate back on.

Just to let those of you reluctant to put new switches in your radio, that it is not so hard. Hey, I'm just a dummy who hasn't figured how to change oil in the thing yet let along shoulder and all that stuff. I'm going to be in real trouble when I'm faced with some of the problems that some of you have. But really the radio wasn't too bad. I tore it down to the faceplate and circuit board but at that point I got cowardly and took it to electronics repair shop. He said the switches recommended by this group were the wrong ones and would never work. I decided it didn't work now. If when I got through with it and if it didn't work than I was no worse off. Now I have music! Next, I'll go see if I can find the oil hole. ~Ray, '86 LX (something) real big and brownish (the bike that is) (well real big applies to me, too:)

I did my switches a few months back and it was a breeze. Hell I have never messed with a radio or anything that needed soldering on a green board before... and I did it with no problems. It sounds like you are pretty lucky you didnít let that guy at the repair shop do it for you...wrong switches and all. ~Jay, Texas


I have just bought an'86 LXE and it came with 2 helmets set up for the intercom. However it is missing one of the cords that connect the helmet to the intercom on the bike. Any help in locating another one would be appreciated. This is a terrific group and resource for a new owner like myself. There is so much useful information and everyone seems so willing to share it. I retire next month and am looking forward to many years of riding. I am sure this group and the Cavalcade page will help me do that. ~ Doug Fuller, Bowser, BC (Near Nanaimo) CANADA

Doug, I bought mine through J&M. Seems to me it was around $18 or so. Dennis

If you contact Sierra Electronics they can send you the helmet cord that you need...They handle all motorcycle electronic audio equip. 1 800-338-6938 or Hope this helps ~ Nancy in Ohio

Brian: If you canít find it on J&M's site, check Sierra Electronicsí site, they have a fold down antenna for $30, but with it you will have to get a 6" extension from radio shack. It is the same antenna that is used for a 1200 Gold Wing. I will check with my friend Gary at chrome and stuff in Nashville and have him find what others are available. ~ Bill Brooks, 86 Lx Dark Cherry

Hi Doug, Just a note.... If you already have the headsets, you should be able to use the cord for the Gold Wing ... that is, if you are talking about the coiled cord that goes from the bike to the headset. They're the same cord. The major difference is the impedance of the microphone and no difference in the cord. They're about $35 from a Honda dealer. ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

Hi All, Just a reminder. The information for the replacement of the switches in the Clarion radio is now posted on the web site. You will find it on the Parts / Accessories Page and also on the Maintenance Page. I've removed any web site background on these instructions and you should be able to print it out in black and white. Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey Orlando, Florida

Did I see an email with a list of Suzuki dealers with reasonably priced parts? I would like to call around to get a price on a CB antenna. I called LMC Sports and they wanted $85.00 for the antenna. ~ Bob Morse 86LX


I recently purchased a complete CB radio made for the Cade from chopper. Does anyone have an idea of where I might go to get a co-rider control? I am told again that the part is discontinued. I have to tear the bike down so far for installation; I donít want to do it twice. Thanks in advance from a great group. ~ Larry from Kingston.

As an FYI, to everyone looking for headsets and attachments for your radios and intercoms. Here is a "heads up," look to J&M. They sell attachments cords and headsets, both open face, and closed face, which work with the correct pin configuration for the Cavalcade. The cheapest place I found, especially with exchange rate so favorable for US $, is Motorcycle Accessory Centre Ltd. Calgary, Alberta. Phil, is the fellow there. The Email address is The Toll free number is 1-800-293-6453. They have long and short cords and lots of heads sets from J&M. He will tell you immediately which ones work for your models. Cheers, and stay in touch. ~


Have any of you ever seen a Cade with "fishtail extension pipes"? If so, how does it look? If not, do you think it would make the bike look a little more "bad"? Thanks in advance. ~ '86 Maroon LXE

The ones in JC Whitney claim to be 29 inches (plenty) long to stick past bumper. Not bad for $60 a pair either. Make sure the ones from Whitney will slide over your Cade pipes. You'll have to cut the lip on the very end off. I can't remember what the measurement was. BUT I think that's why I went through the Harley shop. The ID was too small to slip over them. GOOD LUCK! ~ Walter in Maryland



Denny, Did your speedo work intermittently before the gear went out? My speedo won't work if the bike sits for a while. Thanks ~ Dan

Rod: Have you jacked the front wheel off the ground and spun the wheel? It might help you determine where the whistling, buzzing, howling is coming from. Itís just a thought! Dennis Kirk used to have a bearing section in their catalogue; you might give them a CALL. As I didn't see it in the new one. You might have to have the measurements. ~ Walter

I just noticed a clicking noise and then the speedo started jumping a little. Finally it just stopped altogether. I thought it was the cable, but the gear drive had seized up and sheared.

I've been getting my parts from Waynesville Cycle. They advertise in most magazines. They are a lot cheaper than any dealer around here, and are very helpful. They always double-check my numbers with their fiche. I think I only had one other place that had ever beat their price and that was for a stator (maybe five bucks cheaper) ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, South Bend, IN

Strange. Maybe the grease inside need to be repacked or the speedo gearbox needs replacing. ~ Gerry in NY

I have also had a disturbing howling noise to happen with a new Dunlop 491 tire. If anyone has heard this with a new or low mileage tire, hereís what you do. Pull your Cade straight into a curb. Get a pair of needle nose pliers. Sit down on the curb and patiently pull the centerline rubber mold material off the tire. (Look at a new tire; you will see the line I am talking about). You will not believe the difference in sound coming from the tire after the removal of this thin line of rubber. It is a source of a whining pitch of sound also thatís especially noticeable when bike is ridden close to something like the concrete interstate dividers. ~ Cook


Hi everyone, My name is Tom Houle; I am a new member from Alberta, Canada. I purchased an 87 LX 3 years ago. Every once in a while my tack. jumps up about 1000 revs or so. Then when my bike is parked for a while it goes back to normal. Have any of you had this experience? Last winter we removed all instruments but could not find problem loose wires etc. I have only recently joined your group and find it very informative. I am a bit jealous of those you who ride year round. There are quite a few Cades around Edmonton and area. Thank You, ~ Tom

Lu, I pulled bright one, I caught my antenna in a section of my garage door as I pulled it down from the outside. Made a pretzel out of it & seems to have broken something in the base as it flops around. I haven't been able to figure out how to figure out how to disassemble it. Do you have just the bracketed or the full unit? Because if what you have include the base of the antenna mount, I'm interested. Roy - MD 86LX

I am running Metzler tires, and yes this might be my howl.... As I think the wheel bearing are fine, though I plan on removing them, cleaning then and checking for any defects in the bearing or race... but the tires might be the howl... Thanks ~ Rod


Hi group Any one know about starter button. It makes a clicking sound. Like A dead battery. I have to move clutch in & out, for it to start. I'm putting the carbs back so this is my next job. Would like to know what it is, if any one knows? The bikes are out and I have the fever. FAY. AR ~ Dennis R.

Dennis: If you go to the archives Block and type in clutch switch you will be able to read ALL the fixes and ALL the problems that anyone has written in about since this group has been together, LIKE having Instant answers. Try it you'll be amazed, but in all sincerity, the clutch switch needs cleaned or replaced more than likely. ~ Walter n Maryland


Hi Dennis, If you can't find the clutch switch repair kit locally in Fayetteville, you might try Suzuki of Russellville. I bought mine from them and they had it in stock. Talk to Leslie if he is available, he's the parts man. 501-968-7110 I bought my bike new October of 86, in your neck of the woods, Springdale. ~ David, 86 LXE, Perryville, Ark.

How do you contact Rider Magazine? Also look here for more info ~ BobL


Someone was looking for wheel bearings? If you need bearings, any good bearing supply can match the Suzuki bearings. They are not a custom bearing, but a stock item that can be found at a bearing supply shop. They will be much cheaper (only in price, not in quality). There should be a size and standard number on your old bearings, but if you are not sure, just take the old ones with you. ~ Bill Brooks, 86lx Dark Cherry, The Tennessee Lightshow

Bob, Here is the quote I got from another site. I hope this helps. If not, I also listed the dealers that were the cheapest for the seals I needed. Happy hunting! Antenna #39260-24A01 $76.93, Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

The CB & radio antennas are known as the "Honda Gold Wing type folding antenna." They can cost as little as $30.00 to over $100.00. J&M doesn't have them on their web site but they are in the catalog. Check Sierra Electronics or Cyclecomm, catalogs such as, Add-On, Drag, Markland, and Kriss. Note: not all headsets and hook-up cords are truly compatible with the Cavalcade Clarion radio system, any headsets or hook-up cords they list the 1200 Gold Wing or original Yamaha Venture are compatible. Some dealers will sell you the high end stuff, but it will have a very short operational life ~ Bill Brooks 86lx Dark Cherry, " The Tennessee Lightshow," Flat Creek, Tennessee


I bought my Cade a year ago with 40000 miles on it. It now has almost 47000 on it. What is the expected mileage out of the wheel bearings before they need replaced? ~ Tom Yost at

Don't know! I have 86,000 miles on mine still have original wheel bearings. ~ Tom


I bought my 86 LXE new in 86; it has 74K miles on it now and still has the original bearings. I always lube the rear wheel bearings and drive splines each time the tire is replaced and I will pop the seals out of the front wheel bearings and repack them whenever the front wheel is off the bike. Enjoy that Cade! ~ David, Perryville, Ark.


For any one interested I drew up the plans and diagrams of the trailer hitch I made for my Cade. It utilizes the Muffler hanger bolts and the cross bracket behind the tire, was made out of 3/4 square bar, and 3/16 flat stock. I think it's very solid attachment and doesn't put tongue weight on saddlebag & bumper Assembly's. I only have a few more measurements to add and I think you will be able to copy it. If interested E-mail me:, ~ Walter in Maryland Hi Everybody, I've been doing a little research on the Cavalcade and thought I'd bore you with some trivia. Did you know the 1987 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE's suggested retail price was more than the Harley-Davidson FLTC Tour Glide Classic for the same year? Did you know the Cavalcade has the longest wheel base of any of the major touring bikes of that era and got better gas mileage than the Gold Wing? Check out on the Specifications Page. It has a new look. ~ Web Master Bob

Hey Walter. I would be very interested in seeing your plans for the hitch. I am a mechanic / welder etc. and could make about anything but don't know where to mount the hitch for best safety and handling. I've missed a few sales on used hitches but would rather build my own and have it chromed. Would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks ~ Frank Haines in Indy. '86 LX ~ e-mail is fphaines@aol.

Hi Everybody, Easy? Did I say easy? Oops, sorry. I'm not so sure it's easy to make them, but the plans will be easy for you to find. I've placed 2 separate sets of Trailer Hitch Plans on You will find them on 2 different pages ... Maintenance Page and Parts / Accessories Page. Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida


I have had several messages sent to me inquiring about the state by state list. This is a list that KennG compiled of members that are willing to offer certain forms of assistance to fellow members that are traveling and need it. He tries to keep the list updated quarterly. If there are any new members that would like to get on the list PLEASE contact him for the proper application. To recieve a copy of this list you must also be on the list, to offer your assistance also. Any new members that have not gotten on the list are invited to do so. Contact KENN @ There are over 350 members in the group. We need more on this list. ~ Walter n Maryland


Group, A few months ago I mentioned to the group that in over 40 years of riding, I've been impacted by four major motorcycle accidents. I added that some day I'd have to write about them because I feel each accident has taught me more about safety than the thousands of miles of safe riding I've compiled over the years. So, if any of you can learn from my mistakes (stupidity) then I should try to tell these stories. ~ Well, I finally had the time to compose a brief narrative I call "Four Accidents and A Funeral." But don't let the title scare you. The ending is not what you might think. The stories are brief, but a little too long to post here. So, I've posted it as the latest addition to the "Motorcycle Stories" section of our web site. If you want to read the black and blue accounts of my worst moments on motorcycles, go to, and click on the button marked "Motorcycle Stories" then scroll down to the last story. I'd be interested to know if you learn anything from "Four Accidents and a Funeral." Ride Safe, ~ Jay 86 LXE "Blue on Blue," Sammamish, Washington USA

Jay: It's stories like these that open our eyes as to how vulnerable we are riding on two wheels. As we put more miles under our belts, we become somewhat complacent and not as aware of the dangers around us. Stories like these can be a wake up call for us to take a little more precaution. I drove semi over the road for some years and I can tell you that it can be very dangerous passing a truck. If youíre on a three-lane road always pass in the farthest lane away from the truck. If you hear a whopping sound coming from the tires, get as far away as possible, this means a tire is coming apart. Flying tire tread from a truck will take you out. Same thing goes for an unsecured load if you pass get by fast and stay away. Also the trucks with the larger air deflectors can cause you to be sucked towards the unit as you pass the tractor portion of the truck. Same thing, pass fast and be ready to counter steer away from it. I know that I have caught myself not pay attention to the situation around me, a fiddling with the radio, etc. Conditions can change in a millisecond, which we must respond to quickly, so we need full concentration on the task at hand, driving our pride and joys. Thanks for the stories, if they save one person from a serious situation, it was well worth the writing. I know there was a pain in your heart writing because there was a pain in mine reading it. Sincerely; ~ Jerry 86LX

Thanks Jay for all the great stuff you have written about and especially this last article. I'm sure most of us will learn something from this. I know it took a lot of courage on your part to finish this story. Keep up the great work. We're all behind you! ~ Art in IN 86 LX


Hi all. It's almost that time and I have a question. I'll keep it as short as possible. Last fall I started having a problem with my 87 Cavalcade idling very slowly and then stalling. It might idle for a minute before it would stall. I tried to turn up the idle, but all that did was make it difficult for the bike to idle down during shifting. It was like I was "power shifting". This winter I put in new plugs, air filter and fuel filter. Now it almost seems worse because I get a slight popping out of the exhaust during warm up. I thought maybe I had a bad plug, but if I really "jump on it" I have no missing or popping at all, but still the slow idle. I'm so desperate I'm even going to dump in some carb cleaner as soon as I run it through this tank of gas. During the winter I start it and let it run for twenty minutes or so every few weeks, so I don't think it's a fuel problem, but you never know. The only stupid thing I did was about a month, ago. I let it warm up and forgot it was running. Well, I remembered about an hour later and even though the fan was running and it was over heated, it still seemed to be running smoothly so I don't think I wrecked anything. Ok, after all that, my question is, anyone have an idea why it seems to pop through the exhaust, and anyone ever have this bad idling problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated. You can email me at Thanks in advance! Rick

Hmm, Well, I would try Carb Medic first. Itís great. Also add Drygas (both proportionally in a full tank). Change your fuel filter and blow out your air filter (or replace it). Then check your plug wires (there could be a break). Check the color of the residue on your plugs (gray or black). Then try using a different gas (no lower than 85 octane). Are you at a high altitude? What color is the smoke coming from the exhaust? Lots of variables to check. The above are the easy ones. I can think of more, but the above are the easiest and most economical. ~ Gerry in NY

I'm not sure if this applies, as I haven't had this problem yet, but I have seen emails regarding some diaphragms in the carbs that might have gone bad. Someone will probably see this and reply, hopefully with some REAL advice. Hope this points in the right direction. ~ Jerr.

Rick, Sounds like a timing problem. How long since you had it tuned? ~ Jay

Check the rubber boots that feeds the carbs for cracks or leaks. Just spray a little staring fluid toward them see if the engine races. ~ Larry

Rick, Here's a few comments that might help. There are actually a number of things that probably need to be checked. The popping out of the exhaust is possibly due to unburned fuel suddenly igniting unexpectedly. I would say that is due to a fouled plug. Even though you put new plugs in, you also left it idling for an hour and that has a tendency to build deposits on plugs. I would say to check them and see what kind of color you're getting. If you have one that's fouled, it will allow unburned fuel/air to ignite on it's own and pop through the exhaust. It could also be a coil. These bikes have a coil for each cylinder. If one is laying down during idle, it could be picking back up as the revs go up. Check all of the electrical connections to the igniters and coils, too. That may also be the cause of your slow idle. Since one cylinder is dragging the others down because it's not firing. Surprisingly, these motors have so much power that even with a missing cylinder, it might be a little hard to tell. The other thing you need to check is the slide diaphragm in the carbs. Considering the age of these bikes, it's not uncommon that the diaphragms (or even just one) will spring a leak causing a really strange fuel/air mixture that will probably be unbalanced between the cylinders. With all due respect to Jay's suggestion of timing, I would put that on the bottom of my list. You still may want to check it, though. I just think it sounds more like a carburation issue or fouled or non-firing plug. Of course, a float level check, carb balancing and idle mixture adjustment won't hurt either. ~ Tracy

Rick, try Marvel Mystery oil in the gas. This will clean the carb's. ~ BobL

Hey All, Larry hit it dead on the head. You have 4 sets of rubber boots, 4 from the carbs to the engine and 4 from the carbs to your air filter. The problem you are having is that you are sucking air through one of these boots causing the rpms to hang then suddenly die down and then shut off. You need to take starting fluid and spray on each boot while the bike is running. When you spray the boot that is leaking the engine rpm will increase and go back to idle. You will need to tighten the clamps on that boot or put a silicone on the cracked part of the rubber boot. I used RTV3145, which can take the high heat from the engine. Once you find and fix the air leak, that should fix your problem. I sure this information helps. ~ Alvin Taylor, 87 LXE, Newark Ohio

I would use WD40 instead of starting fluid I have seen to many engines ruined by using starting fluid. Think about the compression increase. Remember it is an aluminum engine. ~ Tom

And the tremendous fire hazard. What actually works best is carb cleaner in a spray cannot also makes the engine pick up rpms when it finds a vacuum leak. ~ Jerry 86LX Wisconsin.

Yeah, carb cleaner may have been better, but I didn't see that until I already tried it. I'll admit, spraying starting fluid on a running engine is a little scary and I did put a fire extinguisher right next to me. Also, I used a small amount because I've heard of engines being ruined by it too even though I was a small engine mechanic for 20 years and we used to spray the crap out of those things with starting fluid and never ruined one... OK, I'm off the subject. I tried it and did find that the right rear boot was leaking, and it seemed to be from right around the carb. The clamp was tight and I tried to smear silicone around it the best I could, but that didn't seem to work. Finally I took the boot off and put gasket shellac, which is impervious to petroleum products, around the inside top lip, and around the o-ring where it attaches to the head. I'm going to let that set up and try it again. I'll let you guys know if it was a success. At least the hard part (the troubleshooting) is behind me. ~ Rick

I'd like to thank everyone that responded to my questions. You guys gave me plenty to try. I'll let everyone know if I get it fixed and what worked for everyone's future reference. I like the idea of the boot leak because as it's warming up, the idle fluctuates, something it's never done before and that's even when the exhaust isn't popping. Definitely could be an air leak now that it was brought to my attention. Thanks again everyone! ~ Rick

What about just swapping two out, making sure the problem actually moves with the boot...if they're interchangeable, that is. ~ Jerr

Just wanted to add my 2 cents worth on the carb. boots, hope you don't mind. It might be cheap insurance to go ahead and spring for the new ones. If your repair isn't perfect or fails on a long ride or trip, you could ruin the valves by a leaking carb. boot. A lean mixture can burn the valves and (or) cause detonation at high speeds or a heavy load. Detonation can destroy the piston. Intake air leaks should not be taken lightly. I don't mean to be an alarmist, just be careful how you choose to make the repair. ~ David, '86 LXE

You're right Dave; I do want the fix to be a permanent one. I'm going to see if the boots are still available and order at least one. If that doesn't clear the problem up I'll guess I'll have no choice but to take it in for service.... $$$$$ Oh well, 13 years with nothing but preventative maintenance, I guess I shouldn't complain. ~ Rick P.S. Not sure who made the comment, but I thought it was a good one about switching the boots to make sure the boot is actually the problem. I'll look into that too.

Rick, Don't forget, there is an o-ring between the boot and the head. Over time, those o-rings take a set and get hard, just like the rubber boots. If you're lucky, you can get them at the local hardware, but they are metric. As for switching of the boots, according to the parts book they are all 4 different. Part numbers are 13110-24A00, 13110-24A02, 13120-24A00 and 13120-24A02. ~ Tracy

Thanks for the part numbers on the boots. The two rear ones look the same, but obviously not. Yes, I was thinking about replacing the o-rings, but when I sprayed starting fluid at the bottom of the boot, I got no response from the engine rpm, but towards the top I do. As well as I THINK I sealed it, I for the life of me can't figure out where it could be leaking unless the boot has a slight warp in it and doesn't fit around the carb body well anymore.... If I ever get it fixed I'll let everyone know so maybe someone else won't have to go through this hassle. ~ Rick

So who has the best price for these. Please someone hook me up. I have not looked at mine yet but I believe that is what is causing my bike to pop though the is driving me nuts. I have run a few tanks of carb cleaner though it to see if it might be a clogged jet or something like that but no difference. The plugs are the right color so it is not a lean or rich problem. Oh and the bike only has 18000 miles so I figure it is just aged rubber. So anyway let me know. Also who has the best price for the seals from the engine/secondary back to the rear end? ~ Thanks Jay in Phoenix

Unless you have reason to believe the leak was caused by some specific incident, like a slipped screwdriver struck one boot, then I would replace all four. If you are really sure that one boot has failed, you can be sure the others are not far behind. ~ Chuck

If the boots are not available you can use radiator hose. Itís the same as boots ~ Kelly

Rick; Take a good look at the seam to the intake manifolds. Mine was doing the same thing and at close inspection, I noticed that it was cracked along the seam. I used silicone to repair the crack. Regards ~ Mike C. 86 LX

Here's to all that have been writing and/or following this "saga". Thanks for all the advice I've been getting. Call me cheap, but after I found out the boots and o-rings were 58 bucks a piece I decided to just order one. I figure if they fail like this one hopefully did, it'll just lead to a bad idling problem until I can order more. To Chuck, I did spray a very small amount to keep it as contained as I could. Sprayed the top and bottom, front and back, every which way I could try it, and it kept pointing to the top of the right rear boot. I'm totally convinced of that, but all the silicone and gasket shellac in the world didn't cure it so I'm thinking it's either getting sucked in through the top lip. I'm real leery of putting silicone in there since I don't want it to break off and end up in the engine. The other thing is I could be completely wrong and it's the carb even though I would think the carb in that area would only leak gas and not suck air. Oh well, I'll know in a week. I hope you all can sleep wondering what's going to happen. Thanks again all! ~ Rick

Hi all. Remember me? The one with the idling problem, and possibly the boots leaking and blah, blah, blah? Well, we'll call them "intake pipes" from now on since that's what Suzuki calls them. Anyway, my part came in today and ........(drum roll please) didn't make any difference. I'll admit the bike "seems" to run smoother, but who knows if that's my imagination or not. When I spray starting fluid at the top of the new boot, the rpm still raises but I'm POSITIVE the new boot is tight. Who knows why it's happening. I'm being real careful about where I spray it too. Anybody have any more ideas? I think I'll wait for a time when the dealer isn't real busy like in the summer some time and take it in for repairs, or an estimate or whatever feels like the right thing to do at the time. I'm just done replacing parts though with no clue as to what's going to fix it. I'll let everyone know if it ever gets fixed. If I have to sit too long in traffic I just put the choke on a hair and it brings the idle up..... I know that'll get old real quick, but it's the best solution I have right now. Everyone have a good riding season!!! ~ Rick

Rick, Let's go back to some of the other, earlier recommendations for a minute. Firstly, you are using starting fluid (aka: ether), very volatile, very thin bodied. Could it be that the fumes (don't take much) are entering the carb from another location like the throttle plate shaft hole? It could easily be the idle mixture adjustment (too lean) and even a small amount of starting fluid fumes could give it just enough extra fuel to bring the idle up. ~ It's not that big of a job to remove the idle mixture plugs and it's even easier to tweak the screws out just a tad to see if that cures it. Over time, as an engine wears, the vacuum naturally fades a little which may require a slight enrichment of the pilot (idle) circuit. It's an easy fix and doesn't cost anything but a little time. ~ Tracy

Rick, Agree totally with Tracy, Also one of the biggest cause will be carb synchronization. First off, checking for the leak use carb cleaner with the nozzle on so you can spray lightly at the spot where you believe it is leaking. It will pick up rpms the same way. If you want to synchronize the carbs yourself, you can by a 4-gauge kit for Japanese bikes from JC Whitney for about $45.00. The procedure is explained in the manual and it is not that hard to do. Also adjusting idle mixture is explained in the book and is done at the same time. If you need some help email me at ~ Jerry, 86LX



I was talking recently with my brother who teaches organic chemistry at Syracuse University. We were discussing what the best choice was for getting a piston loosened in a cylinder. I was using WD-40 for the lubricating and penetrating aspects. It worked, but I was informed that if you use WD-40 you have to be very careful to keep the area soaked. The reason is that WD actually stands for Water Displacement and if you were to add WD-40 and then let it just sit for a long period you will end up removing all coating from the metal and actually get surface rust started faster. Granted, this particular brother is sometimes way too smart to be any earthy good, but his chemical understanding is usually bang on. ~ Chuck

Pretty interesting! I knew WD40 displaced water, but never put two and two together...I'm still struggling with this air leak. I still can't seem to stop it. Today I coated the whole boot the best I could again with silicone again and I'm letting it set up. I'm happy to know where the problem is, but it's starting to get pretty frustrating not being able to stop it. I'm thinking about seeing if those boots are still available, and ordering one...or two, or three, or four. ~ Rick

Just a note on WD-40: With all due respect to the chemical guy, I think he is off base with his theory. Yes, WD-40 does displace water, but it also contains some relatively quick-flashing solvents (as a carrier and for penetration) and a relatively thick lubricant that is held in suspension by the solvents. Once the solvents flash off, the lubricant is left behind. ~ I personally don't think WD-40 is a good long-term lubricant simply because I don't think the lubricant portion is that high quality (meaning high-pressure). Yeah, it fixes squeaks and loosens things up, but it doesn't seem to last too long. Also, the lubricant is so thick that items that don't get used much tend to get sticky. ~ As a rust preventative it's not that bad. After the solvents flash off, it does leave a layer of lubricant behind that helps seal the surface from air and moisture. Are there better things? Yes. Does it do in a pinch? Yes. Does it strip the metal and promote corrosion, I think not. ~ It's also works pretty damn good at getting adhesive goo off of things. Just be careful, some plastics and finishes don't like certain solvents. ~ Tracy

I am surprised that WD-40 would be harmful in any way. I would use it before putting my bike to sleep in December. Sprayed the bike all over except for any rubber. Used it for 15 years on my 81 Honda 900 custom and today my bike is rust free. At first ride it would burn off. I never washed with water before storing. I must have been lucky? Using on the Cade for four years with same success? Used it on the painted surfaces rather than bug and tar remover. ~ Bob


Hello, I just got my light bar, and as I was ready to putting it to good use. Sadly I discovered that my bar accessory (LX) was not to original specifications, in other words bent, due to an accident. Now my new light bar is too high on one side and I cant put my lower fairing on. Wanted to put my bike together for upcoming Suzuki Cavalcade Owners - Chapter Northwest breakfast. Can't do it now. I am looking for bar accessory (front chrome engine guard for LX). Anyone that has one for sale please let me know! ~ Wojo


I have a 1986 LXE with 29,000 miles. Last season I started getting a rap from the engine area. It happens every time, when in neutral, I put it on the side stand and let the clutch out. It sounds like an engine rap. It does not rap on the road. Also at times it will rap when in neutral and the engine is revved-up but never running on the road. Can anyone help? I think it might be in the clutch basket. Has anyone had this problem? ~ Stinger

It could be the water pump drive chain. Itís not hard to get to and remove and check its length. The chain cost is $20. ~ LU

Yeah! Cavs are known to do this when they get well worn. The effect is even more pronounced when the sync or timing/firing is off. I've had a "tick" there for the last 20k miles or so... but when my shop changed mechanics I noticed it started getting progressively worse until it sounded like a rod was about ready to come out of the block. The mechanic who did the work was also the one who hosed my throttle cable and got fired for trying to hide the mistake. Due for service I shopped the bike again and my dealer called back asking me who'd last changed my plugs. After explaining it was his "Wonder Boy" he muttered that 'it figured' and said I'm not getting the bike back for a week or so. Turns out plugs were gapped at 8mm, 10mm and the last two at 11mm... they are supposed to be at 28mm. Carb sync was way off as well as the mixture. I'd known something was wrong but needed to get to work. Dealer went through the bike completely at no labor charge just to get everything right. Bike purrs again.

Don, Just so somebody doesn't actually try and gap the plugs to those dimensions, the actual gap is .024-.028 in. In metric that is .6-.7 mm. ~ Tracy

Check your plugs and sync... you'll get a "tick" down there... its normal as the clutch basket will work on the shaft gears when they wear. If it starts to bang or sound like a bad rod bearing, your adjustments are probably way off. No. Sometimes you won't feel it. Bike seems to run normal but trust me, you need a really good tune! ~ Don


My rear shocks are in need of replacement. This will be the second time this has been required. Both were replaces within 3000 miles of each other and the replacements have lasted no more than 25000 miles (Not Happy!). The OEM replacement shocks are listed at $US 370.00 each or $NZ 1.600.00 give or take a dollar or two. Does anyone know of a suitable alternative at a little more realistic price ~ Murray Ď86 Lx

Murray, Not that it's much better from a price standpoint, but Dennis Kirk carries the Progressive Suspension air shocks for $342/ea US. You also need a $19 hook-up kit for the Cav. The shock part number is 58694 and the kit is 58-699. ~ Some of the guys have gone to non-air and others have found that they need less air pressure with the after market air shocks (springs appear to be substantially heavier). Most have noted an improvement in ride, though. You can also check with Cycle Recycle and, ~ Cycle Therapy at I believe other members have their favorite new and used parts sources as well. If one did a little searching, they might be able to find another new after market shock that didn't cost so much. ~ Tracy

Murray, This is a follow-up on the shocks. Neither Cycle Therapy nor Cycle Recycle has any new shocks. However, has the Progressive air shocks listed at $249 ea. They only carry one part # (1520) and it doesn't say what years they fit other than 1100, 1200 and 1500 Gold Wings, but the Cavalcade used the same rear shocks as most of the 84-87 Gold Wings. You might also try they seem to be a little closer to you. Maybe? ~ Tracy

As Tracy says I have just had a set of Progressive 412ís installed this winter. I have forgone the air system due to the substantial load from the rider and passenger (SumoCaders RIDE!). The ride is much better than I remember, and I donít have to wait for the auto level anymore. Also, I heard that the non-air shocks were better for trailering, and because the bike is so laden to begin with I figured what the heck. The price was about $200 for the set plus installation. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Another advantage to "Progressive "shocks is I believe they are all re-buildable, at least the one's I installed are. I installed "Progressive" suspension both front & rear a couple of years ago & I noticed of a more pronounced improvement on the rear than the forks. Give them a try, I think you will like them. I did use the air shocks though. ~ Darryl Coons

Brian, I was just curious to know where you got the Progressive 412's. Since you had them installed, I figure you got them from the dealer. Is the "412" the model, or the part number? I'm assuming the model, so do you have the part number for them? I have an 87 LX, but I would figure all the shocks would be the same. Thanks. ~ Rick

I got them at my local dealer. I believe these shocks were the same as the same year GL1200 GoldWingÖ I think a different spacer is needed for the frame however. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


Murray I ordered rear shocks through Dennis Kirk catalog for my 86 LXE Cade last June for about $364 a pair. They are repairable by buying kits for them. The phone # for Kirkís is 800-328-9280 or Hope this will be of some help. ~ Tom Yost

I remember seeing here that someone had Progressive front springs installed and the ride was rough. They then removed the spacers and the ride improved greatly. Does anyone remember who that was or how difficult it is to remove the fork caps & spacers? I am too lazy to remove the front wheel and faring stuff again. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Just to let anyone who wants to know that the best price I've found so far on the Progressive rear shocks, (416 Series...air shocks) was $302.99 a pair from Competition Accessories. They're a small place in Ohio, but I've dealt with them for probably the last 15 years. The prices and service are great. You have to buy some adapter kit for 20 bucks, but it seems like you have to buy that from everyone else too. ~ Rick

I like Cycle King, call 1-800-864-1666. AL usually answers and he always seems to have the best prices. He ships out very quickly and has free shipping for the month. Call him last and I think you will be happy. ~ Bob in Jersey

I used competition for about a year and a half, and 2,000 later. I got tired of asking them to meet the prices I found elsewhere. I will spend a lot and stay with one or two stores but sometimes they just treat you like they donít care about your business. Last year I bought a 99 Gold Wing and when I picked it up I went to the parts dept. to order a thousand in accessories. ~ The manager would only give me a 10% discount even though I brought in an ad from another dealer who was offering 20%. After playing with bikes for 25 years and dealing with dealers I let him know that I will never order anything from him and that after spending 18,000 that both him and the dealership know very little about handling customers. A few years ago I went through the same thing at the Harley dealer. These are the same people we meet in life years later who say they lost their dealerships because of rotten customers or any other excuse except themselves. I always enjoy a free cup or two of coffee after having a big breakfast or dinner with my sweetheart. I usually donít go back to a place that charges for each cup. ~ Bob

> I just got a set of progressives from Jerry this winter. I noticed that they were a lot shorter than stock. I emailed Progressive, and they say there should be a 3-inch spacer. The spacer I got was 2 1/2 and it looks > like it allows the front end to go too far down. I'm going to really check it out tomorrow evening when Gerald M comes over. I'm going to play with the spacer length and see what it does, and compare it to the stock spring. I'll let you all know what I find out. ~ Denny Potoczky, Ď86 LXE, South Bend, IN

Progressive fork springs should be exactly 17 in long, not 17.25" ~ bdecker

According to Progressive - their springs are 15.76 long to be used with a 3 inch spacer. Stock springs are 17.9 and a 2 inch spacer. With the progressives and the 2 1/2 spacer, the bike sat with just bike weight on it with 3 1/4 inch to the bottom of triple tree; I figure that left about 2 1/4 inch worth of stroke before bottoming out. The stock set up has about 3 inches of stroke. The stock springs are much softer, the progressives didn't move even when I sat on the bike - (a svelte 225 lbs.,) so they are definitely stiffer. One would also have to use the full 3-inch spacer to get the stock amount of stroke. I believe I am going to use the stock setup. ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, South Bend, IN


Looks like it is my turn to replace the ac generator, bummer. I have a couple of questions (I'll keep them short). Being of moderate mechanical ability, is this a task I should attempt? According to the CD I need a special tool to take the shaft off, true? Are there items I should go ahead and replace while the bike is in pieces (seals, etc)? Where is the best place to buy a new generator? Anyway, as always, thanks for the help. ~ Chuck, Brunsum, NL

Yikes!! Slow down Chuck. If youíre talking about the notorious stator, you will need an hex wrench to remove the driver side foot peg, a socket wrench to remove the stator housing and a GOOD Phillips head screw driver to remove the stator from the housing. It is not required to remove the shaft or to change any seals. You can buy a stator for $300 to $450 or you can rewind it yourself for $40 in materials and approximately 16 hours in time. I chose to rewind my own stator and so far it still works great. ~ A. Taylor, Newark OH, Ď87 LXE

The Cavalcade has a permanent magnet stator. You will need metric socket wrenches, an impact wrench with screwdriver bits, a pan to drain the oil into, a rag, wire cutters, wire nuts and electrical tape. Put a drop cloth below the bike before you change the stator. The procedure is very easy, but messy. The "" page has info for rewinding your stator as well as replacing it. The parts area will tell you where to get your rebuilt or new stator. I got mine from Rickís. Good luck. ~ Gerry in NY


Does anyone out there happen to know how much foot pounds of torque our Cavalcades develop, and at what RPM this torque would peak? I believe that the horse power rating is around 112 H.P. but at what RPM? I have a 1986 Cavalcade, and I was just curious. I would appreciate it if anybody out there could list this info on this web site. Thanks Very Much In Advance, Respectfully, ~ Butch Trombley (Cavalcade USA Member)

Cade torque is 91.9 at 5500 ~ LU


Hello Group, I have a CB radio for sale it is in box from Suzuki new with every thing needed price may be neg. contact me

Anyone looking for a rear bumper with extra factory lights? Let me know. I know where there is one for sale. Cheers, ~

Anyone that is interested, there is a complete set of Cavalcade Microfiche for sale on eBay - current price is $9.99. Here is the URL: I have already ordered one of these sets, and he put up another right away. Maybe he has several, I don't know. ~ Brian 87LXE in CT


I have a Suzuki Cavalcade wiring harness (New in Box) - Part # 36500-24862, which I am not going to use. I was going to add cornering lamps, but I ran into problem getting some of the part. I paid $59.95 in January, I would happy to let it go for $30.00 and I will pay the shipping. If interest email me directly:

Hi guys, Well the results of my search for seals for the final and secondary drives is done. I got quotes from 16 different dealers and Suzuki OEM part retailers, and below I've listed the 7 with the best price. My results stem from the price of these seals only, but I found out there's quite a difference in price from place to place. The prices for 4 seals range between $41.30 - 63.52 for the 7 listed below. Now the 9 I didnít list, prices ranged from $64.96 - 84.96. So this shows that if you donít want to pay twice as much, shop around! I just saved enough to pay for this month's Internet fees... LOL ~ Curtis Sloan, Tenn.,,

Lake Country Motorsports in Wisconsin, web site: is my pick because they had all the final and secondary seals in stock plus free shipping ~ -- third lowest price, but out west somewhere and parts not in stock. ~ - second lowest price, but $100 min. order no parts in stock. World of Powersports, Decat. IL - lowest price, but shipping is extra and parts werenít in stock. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Would anyone be interested in a heel-toe shifter for their Cade? If so contact me because I have an extra one. It is in good working order, but will need cleaning up. A set of the Suzuki trim lights for rear, just the lights, not the mounting bars. Also have a luggage rack (needs chroming). A chrome rail for the luggage box, with rear light bar. LXE backrest (black & gray). I need a drive shaft, the universal does not have to be good ~ Bill Brooks, 86 LXE, The Tennessee Lightshow:

I have been in touch with a company called Diamond Distributing. Attached you will find a picture of the "billet caps" that I have tested that will fit our Cavalcades. Pierre, the owner, is anxious to help work with us to fabricate parts for our Cades. The caps shown he normally sells for $75 per set. I explained to him that I was a member of a Cade club with over 300 members. We have negotiated a price of $50 per set, plus $7.50 S&H. There is a kicker however. Those of you who have changed your brake or clutch cylinders are lucky. The plastic piece that fits over the diaphragm will work with the new caps. All you have to do is file the sides down a little so that they fit inside the new caps. If you still have the OEM units the existing caps have the vents built-in so you will have to buy the plastic cap to get them to fit properly. The cost of those are $4.00 each plus 25 cents S&H. ~ Dick Carter

BACKREST FOR SALE This is not a drivers backrest, it is the LXE passenger backrest, the one that mounts to the travel trunk. It is complete with headrest and speakers (although I do not know the condition of the speakers) gray and black. A complete new one from the dealer would be $600 to $700. I am asking $300 + shipping ~ Bill Brooks 86 LX The Tennessee Lightshow


CUSTOM-MADE ICE CHEST I picked up this very nice ice chest from another in our group without ascertaining its compatibility with my Cavalcade. Due to a mismatch of color I am required to reintroduce it to the group as a professionally custom, well made item available at my cost or best offer. The base of the chest is configured to attach either to the tongue of a trailer or to the ball connection of a trailer hitch of your bike. The interior is in new condition and size is 14wx10dx9h. If interested, contact personally at "" or phone 253-840-1365. ~ Bill

Following Parts Are For Sale: 1-Factory CB Radio---$250.00 2-Radio-Brand New Switches, But The Cassette Does Not Work. Everything Else Is Perfect. $175.00 3- 35k Perfect Motor With Starter, Carbs, Coils And Rectifiers--Started Yesterday And The Stator Putting Out Around 14v. $275.00 4. -Rear Wheel With Rotor- $45.00 5-Air Compressor-$40.00 6-Wiring Harness-$30.00 7-Left Saddle Bag With The Top-$50.00 8-Trunk Complete LX. $45.00 --- Passenger Backrest. $15.00 9.Brand New Left Panel For LXE with Decalfor Vent Open and Close ---Part No.94422-24a20-29l --$40.00 10. -Front Rotors Both. $50.00 11. - Left Front Speaker Cover- $14.00 12. Speedometer Assembly. The Speedometer Does Not Work But Tach, Fuel, Temp And Indicator Unit Etc Works Fine...$60.00 13. Brand New Right Front Down-Pipe from the Engine. In The Box...$30.00 ---- 14. Frame --- Perfect--$25.00 I Have A Few Items Like Switch, Right Rear Lights, Right and Left Panels Etc. Let Me Know if You Need Any of These. Thanks ~ David Ledford. Email:

I have a Suzuki Cavalcade wiring harness (New in Box) Ė Part # 36500-24862, which I am not going to use. I was going to add cornering lamps, but I ran into problem getting some of the parts. I paid $59.95 in January, I would happy to let it go for $30.00 and I will pay the shipping. If interest email me directly ~

Hey all! I found a site that deals with just about anything, including a majority of OEM Cavalcade parts. Go to and select the year, make, model, etc - then it brings you to a list - choose what you want and it brings up a microfiche panel with part numbers - then type in the part number to see the cost or if it's disco'd.... WOOHOO!! ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


Hi everyone, I am looking for a map holder and the bottom brackets. I can still get new but they are very expensive. Any help would be great in locating used parts. ~ Tom

I need a gearshift lever for my 86 LXE, anybody have one for sale? ~ Tom


OK... let's try this again. Anybody got the little handle for the flip-up bag lid cover? I still can't find one. ~ Don

Don, I'm sure you have already looked these up in the parts book, but the part numbers are:

Lever - 95447-24A00 - discontinued plate for lever - 95424-24A00 - $4.14 ea lower half hook - 95516-24A00 - $3.53 ea lower half plate (x2) - 95423-24A00 - $3.53 ea And the one you're looking for, of course, is the one that has been discontinued according to the local Suzuki dealer. ~ Tracy

Hello Keith, A long time ago you mailed this item. Now I am looking for one headset to use on the intercom. The guy who soled me the bike had the two matching helmets inclusive the cords, but he had removed one headset + micro to use on another bike. So now I am looking for one myself. Can you inform me what it costs and which type works on the Cade? Much obliged, ~ Kurt, LXE 89 Blue on Blue

Kurt: I ordered mine from SIERRA Electronics. It is part #HS-8134-OF. OF standing for OPEN FACE, it came with the necessary attachments and has a short cord that you can unhook from the helmet when refueling, I think it cost around $125.00, Plugs right in Works Great. RIDE SAFE ~ Walter n Maryland


Ok, everyone thatís interested in armrests, following is the email I sent to CustomFab and the reply that Jim & Mary sent back. They have built armrest for others at $159.00 to &169.00. I don't know if they will build them for us at that price. If somebody in Iowa could contact them and show them their Cade, we could see if it would work for us. ~ Jerry 86LX Are you able to fabricate passenger armrests to fit 86-88 Suzuki Cavalcade? Some of us in the USA Cavalcade Club would be interested in purchasing them. I would appreciate it very much if you would let me know. Thank you: ~ Jerry Tennant Jerry, Jim fabricates new items as possible. The biggest obstacle is that to do the first prototype we have to be able to have access to the motorcycle. We have trouble with finding someone to leave a bike for a couple of weeks with us. We have been lucky with the Honda line and a few Voyagersís but have not had anyone in our area come forth with a Cavalcade. We are able to request for this in our local newspaper. Until we get one that we can hang on to for awhile this would be impossible. We are located in Cedar Falls Iowa so if you know of anyone in Iowa that is in your club we might be able to work something out...Thanks for your interest.... ~ Jim & Mary

Jerry I believe the 1200 Gold Wing arm rests will fit the Cade. ~ Nancy

Nancy: Hopefully, these would be frame-mounted instead of trunk-mounted. ~ Jerry 86LX


Anyone interested I'm selling 86 Cade not LX. When it runs it runs very well. 76,000miles, it has electric problem new reg. new battery, new stator. It was doing fine then battery symbol shows and bike shuts down. So thatís enough, I've purchased a gold Wing. The farings have a few cracks cornering lights, front fork lights, anyone interested drop me a line will be putting in paper later in the week. Thanks, ~ Art in Jacksonville, FL

Name: Hank P Blessing, Email:, Location: Chesapeake VA, I have a 1986 with 9000 miles only, updated to lx, all options, service manual, cover, ex oil filters, I can not ride any more, disabled!

For sale: selling my Cade 1986 LX 49,250 miles light and dark brown, great shape, $3,000.00 OBO, Fred Dixon, live in California (916) 784-7131, e-mail:

1986 LXE 24,000 miles, chrome rotor & caliper covers. New front tire, matching Dunlop 491 white letter, back rest, pass arm rest, extra lights, CB, just had all new buttons put in radio, matching helmets with head sets and mics, 2 tone maroon, cover, $4900 North West Indiana. I can email pictures:

I am going to do it! I am selling my Bike. I have had it since 1987 and have only put 45,500 miles on. Here are the stats: 1987 LXE, 45,500 miles, 12cd changer with four carts! That's 48 CD's! CB radio, Kenwood 3 band 144Mhz/440Mhz HAM Radio Transciever (TM741A), Trunk Rack, Mud Flaps,F-Fender Chrome, Backrest, Heal/Toe Shifter, Seat needs re-covering, $6,000.00/O.B.O

$2700 OBO, NW Ohio. it is a basic model. Very limited options. But it runs super and is in very nice shape. ~ bdecker, email: