The SuzukiCavalcade Newsletter

Issue #9 ~ April, 2001

Jay D. Johnson, Editor

Emailed to you at No Charge.

Available by fax or snail-mail for $25.00 a year.



You should plan to attend this yearís Americade at Lake George, NY the week of Monday, June 4, 2001. Americade has become the world's largest multi-brand motorcycle touring rally, now drawing nearly 50,000.  It's a convention of riders and passengers, who enjoy riding touring, sport touring and cruising motorcycles.  For complete information, go to the following URL:   Here you can download a printable 2001 Fact Sheet, Registration & Schedule. You will find an online 2001 Registration Form Scroll through & click on the features.  Pricing info & options for Americade Week.  Cavalcade riders who plan to attend can co-ordinate through Cheryl at

Attention all AmeriCaders, Now is a great time to submit your lodging information and arrival/departure times! As last year, my wife (our first married Americade this year!) has graciously offered to compile all information, to be sent out to those going to Americade. It is very useful in determining whom you want to meet, where, and when. Cheryl did this last year, and was very successful. You may even want to provide the route you are traveling and maybe someone may hook up with you for the ride in.

Also included is a daily meeting place if you are interested. We would meet every day at a particular restaurant, place, etc. and everyone knew about it in advance and joined in if they pleased. We had a blast, meeting for breakfast at Suttons (farmer's stack!) and subway grinders at Mrs. B's. Some of you have already responded, and we can't wait to meet you. All information to be added to this very useful reference can be sent to  (the wife's alter ego). Thanks, and SEE YA THERE! ~ Brian & Cheryl, 87LXE in CT


I am planning on dropping by the Laconia rally on the way home from the Americade and was wondering if any one had any advice or was also going? ~ Carter Piovesan, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia


Carter, I don't know how long you plan to spend at Laconia, but it is a lot different than Americade. Although motorcycle week begins when Americade ends things really do not get going until the Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at the end of the week. ~ If the weather is good not unusual to see more motorcycles in one day than attend all week at Lake George. Many come down from Canada since it is only about 2 1/2 hours from the border. ~ I have always gone up on Saturday for 3 or 4 hours -- its about 1 1/2 hours from my home in Mass. Let me know what your plans are or maybe we can meet at Lake George. Jim Kelly from Pennsylvania is planning to ride from Lake George to Laconia I think. ~ Al from Mass

My wife and myself are also going to Laconia, planning to arrive on Saturday and staying over to Wednesday morning. Like you this is our first time also. We are camping at Foothills Campground. Possibly we will see you there; we will be the other couple on the Cavalcade.



The dates for this yearís tour of the Canadian Rocky Mountain National Parks are July 28th through August 5th. Registration is $25.00 for bike & rider and $15 for a passenger. T-shirt or polo shirt included. For info, email  For photo preview, go to this URL: 

CADE RAID ~ 2002

The International Rally for Cavalcades

CADE RAID 2002 is set for September 16-18, 2002 at the Honeysuckle Inn Resort in Branson, Missouri. You can visit their web site at

There are 50 rooms blocked for our group and I suggest you get your reservation in early. The toll-free phone number is 1-800-942-3553. You must identify yourself as attending the Suzuki Cavalcade Ownerís Group meeting ("CADE RAID 2002") to get our group room rate. The Inn is giving us a tentative rate of $55.00 per night. They do not expect this to change. However they will not be able to guarantee this rate until the end of this year. We suggest you book NOW to hold your room. ~ The room rate includes free continental breakfast, or you can opt for a full breakfast with a discount coupon instead. You can also book extra days at the same rate if you wish to arrive early or stay longer.


Group, I've just received my initial order from Louis Preston at "The Electrical Connection" in Knoxville, TN. This is the organization that offers Driving Light Kits for specific bike models. His web site  also lists other products aimed at making life easier for the motorcyclist. While some products are model-specific, others are generic in application and can be used in many different applications. ~ After reviewing his products, I decided on ordering 4 parts, as follows:

ABS Plastic Repair Kit - $9.95

Rear Turn Signal Conversion Kit - $9.95 (adds red running lights to amber rear turn signal lights)

Power Plate - $44.95 (Fuse box w/6 fused outlets, relay-controlled, w/battery-charger port, 30A)

Handlebar Switch Mount - $14.95 (Microswitch w/mount, Push-To-Talk, to be used for CB control)

Louis notes on his site that there has been a five-fold increase in business above his norm, and that he is both expanding in personnel and in attempting to locate suppliers for his in-house production, so expect some potential delays in having your order processed. I might add that Louis has been helpful when I've inquired about order status, and both truthful and apologetic when a supplier had delayed shipment, causing production delays. I nonetheless received everything, without any other hitch. Each product arrived in its own poly bag with instructions, all necessary hardware, connectors, bulbs, wiring and Allen-wrench when necessary. Construction of the three 'hard' items is first-class. The Handlebar Switch is of a heavy ABS-type material, the mount being fully 3/16" thick and 5/16" wide, with an equally well-constructed offset housing for the PTT switch which places it under the left thumb when mounted between the left grip and the control cluster.

The Power Plate is a SOLID one-piece unit riveted to an aluminum mounting bracket and with the "Hot" lead permanently attached. Included is a package of connectors, plus a main 30A fuse, an Allen-wrench and the relay with its own wiring harness and fuse. This is not a lightweight wiring harness. Instructions are thorough and complete.

The Rear Turn Signal Conversion Kit contains Sockets, bulbs and t-taps. Instructions are simple and straightforward, five steps total.

Clients permitting, this will be an interesting weekend. With my Electrical Connection order, and what I've already received from other sources, I anticipate taking the 'Cade apart only once. It's A one-shot wiring job, if you please. Photos will follow, as quickly as my digital camera is operating again. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Kurt, I hope this isn't a dumb question, but did you push the H/S button on the radio. ~ Jerry 86LX


Has anyone had any luck finding a quality alternative spark plug other than the $10 each NGK PR7A plugs? I just found out after checking everything else that I have a bad plug...or two and they're brand new. If I can't send them back and get them replaced I thought it might be a good time to check into less expensive spark plugs. Thanks for any help. ~ Rick

Hmmmmm! I seem to recall someone recommending that you check the plugs since you let it idle for an hour. I wonder? Who was that smart SOB? Or should I say smart-ass SOB. ~ Tracy

Rick; Click on this link to go to the Cav web page spark plug guide.  ~ Tracy

Good one Tracy, but I remember saying that I let it idle for an hour BEFORE I ever changed the plugs. Pretty good memory though. These new plugs are obviously bad out of the box. Thanks for the link. ~ Rick

Hi Jay, I have an '86 lx maybe you might know the answer to this. My indicator screen on the dash intermittently tells me that the taillight is out, when in fact it works all the time. Is there a ground wire for this circuit? Or is my dash the problem? Thanks, ~ Al (86 lx)

P.S. Thanks for a great web site I get a lot of my info from your site.

Try NGK DPR8EA9; through competition accessories, they are 2.09 each. I have them in mine. I changed the first 4 after 7000 miles. The ones I have in now have 2500 miles and 5 months of winter frost...she still starts up well. I'm ordering mine today. Good luck. ~ Gerry in NY, Ride Safe, Stay well!

Rick, As a matter of fact, I just found a very impressive spark plug from a company called PyroSTARS. They were set up as a vendor at Bike Week in Daytona, looking for dealers. This new spark plug is different from anything I've ever seen.

The top ceramic part looks the same as every other plug on the market. The difference is in the chamber. Normal plugs have an electrode in the center and a little bar fused to the threaded part of the plug, which serves as ground.

This new plug has the electrode in the center; however, it has a "star" shaped crown fused to the electrode. The electrical arc occurs between the points of the "star" and the threaded circumference of the plug, resulting in a 360-degree arc. Depending on the engine the plugs were made for, some plugs had 4 point stars, 5 point stars, all the way up to 8 point stars. The demonstration was impressive, but the plugs were a bit pricey at about 16.95 each.

I spoke with the inventor and he assured me that this would be the last plug you would ever have to buy for your vehicle. You do not gap these plugs, as they are pre-gapped from the factory.

It may be a little while before you start seeing these plugs on the market, because right now he is looking for distributors. I'm not sure that he will sell them directly to an individual, but if anyone is interested you are welcome to try. I'll give the address and contact information below.

The major claim is with the bigger spark, or rather more sparks. You are going from 1 spark per chamber to 6-8 sparks per chamber. ALL of the gasoline that enters the engine cylinders will burn, resulting in NO after-burning in the pipes, resulting in NO bluing of the chrome pipes, because the pipes will be cooler. Also, since ALL of the gasoline will burn in the cylinder, the end result will be increased power.

Here are the inventor's claims:

* More Torque

* Faster throttle response

* NO Fouling

* NO Indexing, NO gapping

* Increased horsepower

* Faster starts

* NO build-up

* Longer life

I spoke with a couple of the test riders who had tested these plugs in their bikes. Both said they noticed a difference even as soon as when the bike first fired. Of course these guys worked for the inventor, but I was still impressed with the demonstration and the concept.

Don't be tempted to compare this with the SplitFire plug. They don't work the same, nor do they look anything alike. The SplitFire plug works basically like all other spark plugs, but just a little better. The design in the PyroSTARS plugs actually "blows" the spark out from the plug, resulting in a comparatively huge spark.

They aren't making them for cars yet, but they are making them for motorcycles, snowmobiles, outboard watercraft, Jet Ski's, ATV's, power tools and power equipment. Here's their contact info: PyroSTARS

15026 Oxnard Street, Van Nuys, CA 91411. Telephone = 1-866-797-6782 (note: this is a Dealer's Number. They may ask you to call another number, which I don't have. You should be able to find a dealer by calling this number and asking where the nearest dealer is, to your location.)

Okay folks, "No," I didn't take a sales job with them. I'm just reporting on the latest spark plug invention. I tried to talk him into giving me some so I could tell you about them, but he didn't have enough with him. You'll have to decide for yourselves. ~ Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

Has anyone had any luck finding a quality alternative spark plug other than the $10 NGK PR7A plugs? I just found out after checking EVERYTHING else that I have a bad plug...or two and they're brand new. If I can't send them back and get them replaced I thought it might be a good time to check into less expensive spark plugs. Thanks for any help. ~ Rick

Hi Folks, I just got my hands on some extra Cade parts. For those of you that have a broken map cover and also at broken coin and tape holder I may have a solution for you. I just bought a parts bike and the dealer I bought it from threw in a bunch of extra Cade stuff he had lying around. Included were a few of the original LX covers that the map covers and coin cover replaced. What the dealer did was save the covers and boxes of the bikes when he replaced map covers etc. These may be a solution if you have broken map covers and coin boxes. I'll take $20 bucks for each which would include the cover and the base that fits on the fairing. In addition I also got a couple of the chrome rear bumpers and side bumpers. They are in very good condition. I'll take $60 for all three pieces. Someone was looking for speaker grill covers. I have a set that looks brand new...$30 for both. All these would be plus shipping costs. Contact me...  ~ Dick C. in Beeville, Texas

Here are plug types that are used in 86 LXE

Denso X22EPR-GL



Champion SERIES 810 plug type RA8HA

Sockets most are 18MM champion are 16MM


~ BobL


To all you Caders out there: I have completely re-switched, cleaned and adjusted Clarion radio cassette for sale. I'm giving you a shot before I put it on eBay. Want 3 bills. Also have owners manual for 87 Cade 5 bucks. 


Hi Fellow Cavalcaders, Is there anyone out there who has any knowledge about after-market intercom systems? I would like to purchase one of these systems so that I will be able to converse with my wife (passenger) as well as for both of us to be able to listen to our radio more clearly at interstate speeds. I am under the impression that all Cavalcade motorcycles were already hard wired from the factory so that a knowledgeable mechanic could make the necessary hook up should the owner desire to do so.

My particular 1986 Cavalcade does not have a factory radio, the previous owner elected to purchase a much more advanced Sony A.M./FM. Cassette Radio that has the capability to be removed with very little effort. This radio was tied into the factory wiring system and works very well. ~ The name that keeps popping up all of the time as being the very best is a product called Autocom. The manufacture of this system is located not far from Albany, New York. It is very expensive at around $ 650.00 plus $ 50.00 more for installation. Have any of you out there heard anything about this or any other product that is of a high quality as well as being flawless in operation? Respectfully, ~ Butch Trombley, Cavalcade Member For Over A Year Now

Butch T. I bought a "Chatterbox" radio system last year, for talking to other riders and to my passenger. It is a helmet radio, that works on the family services frequency/ but designed to cancel out cycle engine noise etc. I hard wired a lead to the Cade radio output and feed it into the "Chatterbox" System. I've been very happy with this system for both intercom and radio performance. Cost was about $200, plus 30 more for the mike and speakers for the passenger helmet. ~ Art in IN 86 LX

Butch, I don't know where you are at...but if by chance you are coming to Americade...Sierra electronics will be there and they are specialists in motorcycle electronics...radios and helmets and intercoms. They are here in Ohio... Here is their # 1 800 338-6938. Email address:  Their prices are might want to try them out. Hope this helps. Have a great day ~ Nancy


Autocom is designed in England and is used on the new BMW's and most Gold Wings here. All reports suggest it is the best system available and gives clear sound way above 100mph. ~ Dave, UK

Check with Cyclecomm, they have a lot of new products coming out, they also have a CB with a built in

intercom and stereo-radio over-ride ($399). We installed one on a 1200 Gold Wing and it works great with the OEM radio. ~ Bill Brooks 86LX, "The Tennessee Lightshow"


If I don't have my CB plugged in, I receive squelch and transmissions from a CB channel out of my speakers while I am riding (or just waiting for a stop light for that matter). I thought it might have something to do with my

messed up Clarion radio, but I have since removed it and sent it off for service (new switches of course) and the CB transmissions continue. Anyone experience this and have a fix for it? Thanks, ~ Rick - 88 Cavalcade

Rick I had the same problem when I installed a standard CB on mine. I corrected it by tuning my CB antenna. I had a friend that had a tuner but I think you can get one from Radio Shack. ~ good luck, Roy


Has anybody tried to utilize a regular CB mike without having to buy the CB mike kit? The reason I ask is that I can get the DIN plug easily and I've got several CB mike's lying around (Lafayette, Cobra, Uniden)..seems one of them should have an appropriate impedance. ~ B. Walker

I have spent much time and effort in trying to figure out the Cade CB hookup. I have a LX without the stock CB and want to add an after market unit and hook it up to the 8 pin din coming from the clarion radio. After several weeks of testing the stock CB unit on a friend's Cade, talking with a CB technician, quizzing the group, and some trial and error, I came up with NOTA. My final answer is that if you donít have a Suzuki CB to install in the Cade, then the only thing to hook up to the 8-pin din is the sound out from the external speaker jack. And instead of trying to hookup to intercom mic, I decided to just take the mic from the unit I was installing and soldier a 4 ft wire to it and Velcro it in my full face helmet next to the intercom mic. I installed a 1\8" mic jack and plug so the wire stays with the headset wire on my helmet. After a test run, everything seems to work great. I mounted the

original PTT button on the Cade radio control with heavy duty Velcro, so itís convenient, and removable when not being used or when it rains or bike is washed. I'm happy with the results, and itís much cheaper then a Suzuki CB

unit. Hope this helps. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX



Hallo Keith, A long time ago you mailed this item. Now I am looking for one headset to use on the intercom. The guy who sold me the bike had the two matching helmets inclusive the cords, but he had removed one headset + micro to use on another bike. So now I am looking for one myself. Can you inform me what it costs and which type works on the Cade? Much obliged, ~ Kurt, LXE 89 Blue on Blue

----- Original Message -----

From: "Keith Rice" I canít seem to get any kind of helmet system that will work with my Cade. Do any of you have a system that works with the Cades or have ANY suggestions on where I can get one. I have a JM Corp that I am pretty sure works but I just bought new cords and I cant get them to work. I plug them in and I still hear everything through the bike speakers. Itís very frustrating! Any help would be appreciated very VERY much. ~ Steve, 87 LXE

Hope this isn't a dumb question, but did you push the H/S button on the radio? ~ Jerry 86LX

Thanks for the quick response, and no, no question is dumb ... But I should have specified that the headset was entirely removed from the open helmet. Help? ~ Kurt

As an FYI, to everyone looking for headsets and attachments for your radios and intercoms. Here is a heads up, look to J&M, they sell attachments cords and headsets, both open face, and closed face, which work with the correct pin configuration for the Cavalcade. ~ ?

Hello! I am president of "Suzuki Cavalcade Club Sweden" (SCCS) which we started 1992. There are 70 Cades in Sweden and we have 60 members. ~ Bo Alvemark, E-Mail:,  Gustafs, Sweden.

I know Bo and have met some of his members and also members of the SCC Norway who have 67 members. I led them on a trip through Scotland, 25 Cades all in line. Itís the most memorable trip in my 33 years of riding. ~ Dave, UK

Kurt: Don't worry if you get the J&M headsets they come with every thing you need to install them. You just have to specify which type helmet you're going to install them in. They come with VELCRO attach pads for the ear pieces, and a small clamp-on for the mouth phone, I ordered mine through SIERRA electronics out of OHIO, as believe it or not they were cheaper than J&M themselves. The part number again IS #HS-8134- 0F----OF for open-face helmet and the ear speakers are stereo. You will like the cord hook-up as you can unplug the LONG cord leaving it on the bike and just a short cord to contend with while you get that fast cup of coffee or refuel. ~ Walter n Maryland

It depends on what headset you buy. Those needed by us have the lower cords included. Just got off the phone with J&M and they changed their models again this year? ~ Bob

When I first got mine in mid-1999 (just after I got the Cade), I spent about $200 at my then-local dealer. I used a flat-blade screwdriver to shove the cord in, and now that I think about it, I guess I was lucky! That Popsicle stick idea is great! See ya at Americade and don't forget that HUG!!! Brian 87LXE in CT PS - I am getting more and more itchy to go to Tennessee to get me a free light set.

Yes, the kit includes ALMOST everything you need to install it in your helmet. I was going to do it myself until they told me about the $167.00 pop sickle stick to tuck the wires between the helmet shell and foam. JUST KIDDING!!! Sierra Electronics did mine at Americade 2000, and the installer told me the pop sickle stick is the trick. He's used a number of tools and the stick works best in his book. Mine work fantastic...I only wish it came with a mute button. AGAIN, JUST KIDDING. ~ KennG

Hi Guys, Well I'm hooking up my after market CB to work with my headsets. I've dug through the archives and searched through the Cade CD and got most of my info, but still need more. All my questions are pertaining to the 8 pin din plug coming from the radio that is meant for hooking up the Suzuki CB unit to. Pin 6 says it's for "CB Remocon 12v", is this the hot wire for the CB unit? Pin 8 says it's for "CB Mic (earth)", is this the Mic pos. or ground, and which pin is the other? Pin 4 says it's for "push to talk", does this get 12v pos. to power a relay in the radio to switch between intercom and CB? On my CB unit I have connections for an external Mic and speaker, so that part is easy. Now I need to know where to hook these 4 wires and how to get the push to talk button to switch the Mic from intercom to CB. I have Rick and Mike's info, but I think this will be easier then cutting into my headset connections. If we can get this figured out, I will post complete directions for the rest of you that might want to try to add a CB this way. Thanks a bunch and I know I'll be hearin' from ya'll. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Brian, You are trying to do the same thing I wanted to do but didn't have any luck. I was working on the assumption that I could wire up an after market CB directly into the circuit of the radio so it would work like a factory CB. After having a lot of no luck I asked one of the engineers at our company to look at the schematics and after a short look he surmised that the factory CB was not an add on but rather an extension of the factory radio. He told me that it may be possible to integrate an after market CB into the radio but it would be quite a bit of work and if all the grounds were not correct could blow the factory radio. After learning this I opted for the easy way out and, not having a place to install a small CB that I could wire in like Mike, I went with a one-hander & just wired it up to get audio through the radio headsets. ~ If you want to go like Mike's then you do not need to cut into your headsets. You can make up an insert that could go between your headsets and the radio din plug. The insert would need a male din plug, a female din plug and your push to talk switch/relay. I would also not suggest that you try to use the power from the radio but instead run power to the CB from the accessory panel. ** WARNING!! ** - When dealing with communications equipment always follow this rule - Tie all grounds to a common point - do not rely on various chassis grounds. This will prevent ground loops, which can cause noise and even damage. If you can figure out how to add an after market so that it works like a factory unit please let us know. Regards and good luck. ~ Rick

I am a new Cade owner and was forced to replace my helmets because of age. I purchased 3/4 Helmets (Falcon) with intercom system and wired for a Suzuki. J & M Corp. ( ) Paid 199.99 each for the helmets with the intercom/speaker system installed. They work great and I am very pleased with the fit and finish of the overall product. They also offer the intercom system separate from the helmet. Hope this helps. ~ Randy Mayer

Iíve been enjoying my "new" í86 Cavalcade LX, and have learned a lot lurking around you experts. Itís a little chilly and wet in western PA, but I figure Iím gonna ride every day to work and plan for the longer weekend trips. The Cade is unbelievably dry and warm compared the stripped down Sportster I had before! Some pretty basic questions from someone whoís never had a dresser: I see the intercom and headset controls on the radio and read all about headset connections. Where do the headsets plug in? Thanks. ~ Chuck

Chuck, In case you've not yet gotten an answer, the connections are usually hidden under the false tank. Sometimes they're easy to find, near an edge or so, but the best way to find them and to make sure they're properly routed is to remove the false tank, locate the plugs, and then make sure they're available at the locations you want them. ~ Andy, Midland, TX


Hey everybody. I was wondering because I purchased an intercom cord made for a Gold Wing. Is the one for the Cade configured differently? I know we have just gone over this...but I was wondering if this might be why I do not hear my CB in my helmet or through the speakers. Is the pin configuration different? Or am I just wishful thinking here? Let me know what you all think. ~ Gary Fairfield, 1986 TT Blue LXE,

Jax, FL

Gary, You say you can not hear your CB through the speaker or headphones. Can you hear the radio through both? If so I suggest you look at the connection from your CB to the bike's wiring. ~ Dennis

Gary, I had the same problem with mine, at first. Also had pushed the HS button, to only lose sound from the speakers. Also had the chord fall out of the connector. Found out that when I pushed the chord in all the way - it snaps - everything worked find. That may be all the problem is. Let us know. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

I have both a wing and a Cade and my headsets work on both bikes just fine, They also work on ventures and Voyagers. Look carefully on your Cadeís dash to see if you hit the right button for headset use. ~ Bob

Hi Group, Jay, I'm hoping you will be able to help me, seeing how you are in the recording business?

If not, then I sure someone will have an answer for me, so feel free to chime in if you think you know the answer. OK, here is my situation. I'm hooking up a CB to my bike, (Yes, still, couldnít figure out the complex hookup to the Cade radio). Anyhow, I've decided the easiest and best method is to just hook up the ext. Speaker jack to the 8-pin din, and install another Mic for the CB in my full-face helmet. My handheld CB has a place on the circuit board to slide a connector on (marked "mic in") I have tried hooking up a few spare mics that I had laying around, but the clarity transmitting out is not as good as the condenser mic thatís soldiered onto the board. I've talked to my local CB shop and they say I need a particular kind of mic in order for it to transmit with clarity, but didnít have any suggestions except for buying a new CB mic and taking the mic element out of it. So I hooked up to the mic element that is in a mic I have for another CB, and clarity was better, but still not as good as the condenser mic. HERE'S THE QUESTION: What kind or type of mic element do I need to get that I can mount in my helmet, and hook up to this connector, (which by the way, does not bypass the condenser mic, so both mics will be active when I push the PTT button) that will give me good clear transmission? DO I need to match the Mic element to the "Juice" going to it? Will having both mics "live" cause the Mic to not be as "strong or clear"? Do I need a "lower resistance" Mic to make up for having both active at the same time? Please feel free to speculate if you have any knowledge in this field. Thanks for any input you could give me. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Brian, To find out what Mic element is best for your handheld check the manual or call the manufacturer. This should give you the right answer. I would however be very leery of the fact that both mics will be active. The one on the handheld will probably pick up a lot of noise and mix it in with your transmission. It will also probably lower your modulation levels. If you don't really need the Mic in the handheld I would look into the possibility of disconnecting it - either permanently or through a switch. The element you do choose should also be a noise canceling one and you will want to protect it from wind & breath noises with a foam cover. ~ Rick

Brian: Using two mic's will change the impedance to the input amp. The outcome can be either poor quality, two different signals coming together so the other mic will pick up more engine noise thus making your voice quieter, feedback from the two mic's, self canceling, a buzz etc. Also remember to tie the grounds of the mic's together or you will not like what comes out of the speakers. Your best bet is to delete one of the mic's. The diagram that I did put out does work but you need to modify it for your particular CB. If you need help let me know. Hope this helps a little. ~ Mike C., 86LX

I'm not sure how much useful advice I can give you Brian, but I'll give it a shot. I may be in the recording business, but I'd starve to death if I had to make my living as an audio bench tec. I'm also a little fuzzy about your project. As I read your email, it seems you are not getting the signal level from the mic you are inputting to the "Mic In" in the CB. Does connecting a second mic disconnect the feed from the primary mic? If not, you have a situation of two hot mics trying to feed the same pre-amp without going through a mixer. You are going to have signal dropout. You also have the problem of matching the phantom power to the mike unless it is a condenser mic. (Or is it the other way around? DANG! I forget which needs phantom power.) You may also have the factor of impedance in the line from new mic to the input in the CB. If the connecting wire is the wrong size, that could be your problem. Or, it could be something totally different. Maybe one of our members could give you an intelligent answer. ~ Jay


Hey Everyone, I have a question for the group. Has anyone seen what I call "Riding Sleeves?" I call them that, for want of the actual name. They are actually nothing more than cotton sleeves, from the wrist to the upper arm and are held in place with elastic at each end. One those hot summer days, you can soak them in water and put them on your arms. They not only cool you off, but also keep your arms from being sunburned and wind burnt. The oneís I've seen are white cotton. The person that has them, bought them during bike week last year, but doesn't know who makes them. Anyone in the group know anything about them? Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

Bob, Maybe you could try this as a recycling project. Take some of those old, stained and holey socks that always seem to migrate to the top of the sock drawer, cut the toe-end open, and then tape them together end to end with duct tape (also referred to as "duck" tape in the South). Soak 'em up and slip 'em on. Oooohhhh, what cool riding we're doing now. You'll be the envy of every Gold winger. :-), ~ Tracy

Bob, I call them leg and arm warmers and my wife and I have been using them for many a year. SO long that she can't recall where she bought them. She thinks maybe from Lands End or Eddie Bauer. One size fits leg or arm. ~ LU

I work in a chemical co. sounds like a sleeve we have for dry chemical work made the same way never did think about using then that way will have to try, thank you for the tip. ~ Gary, 86 Cade Greenfield Wis.

Bob, Try ""  web site. They have what they call "Sun Guard Sleeves" in their new products section. Now you won't have to tape those socks together. ~ Art in IN 86 LX

Bob, If you can't locate them elsewhere, you might contact Betty Harris at "Slicks." She's the lady who manufactures helmet liners, cooling neckerchiefs, etc. Contact information is on the Parts & Accessories section of the web site. Her link is the last one in that section ( )  ~Jay

Art and Jay J., Thank you very much. You both were right-on with this. I did find exactly what I was looking for. I wish I had known where they sold them, before I ruined 2 good pairs of white socks. At least I can take the duct tape back to K-Mart. ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

Dang it Bob.... I was kinda looking forward to your fashion statement...Glad you found what you needed ~ Nancy

Hey Everybody, I don't remember if I told you, but I did find the "riding sleeves" that I've been looking for. They are available at Sliks, whose link is on, on the Links Page. I spoke with Betty, who is going to send them out to me right away. They are $10 per pair and come in 3 sizes (medium, large, x-large). Once I get them, I'll give you a report on them. ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida


Question: Who has the best price for the seals from the engine/secondary back to the rear end? Thanks ~ Jay

Hi guys, Well the results of my search for seals for the final and secondary drives is done. I got quotes from 16 different dealers and Suzuki OEM part retailers, and below I've listed the 7 with the best price. My results stem from the price of these seals only, but I found out thereís quite a difference in price from place to place. The prices for 4 seals range between $41.30 - 63.52 for the 7 listed below. Now the 9 I didnít list, prices ranged from $64.96 - 84.96. So this shows that if you donít want to pay twice as much, shop around! I just saved enough to pay for this months internet fees.  ~ Curtis Sloan, Tenn

Lake Country Motorsports Wisconsin  my pick because they had the entire final and secondary seals in stock plus free shipping. -- had third lowest price, but was out west somewhere and parts not in stock.

Cparts99@... Ė was second lowest price, but $100 min. Order, no parts in stock

World of Powersports, Decat. IL - lowest price, but shipping is extra and parts werenít in stock

~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

Sorry.... I didn't mean to mislead anyone about me having map covers. I DON'T HAVE MAP COVERS.... SORRY! What I do have are the original pockets and covers that go on each side of the fairing. LX's came with just basic pockets and a locking plastic cover. These are what I have. I know that there are many people looking for map covers because theirs is broken. These would just bring back the original look. Once again I didn't mean to lead you astray. ~ Dick Carter

Anyone that can give me info on a Cavalcade factory type CB, please let me know. OK? Thanks ~ Jay

CUSTOM ENGRAVING DONE Anything you can mail or bring to me in western NY I will do my best to do what ever you ask. I will try anything once. Also don't ask me to make 2 of anything because everything is original or one of a kind. I love a challenge.

I'm looking for a rear mud flap for my 1986 Cavalcade LXE. I removed my trailer hitch for the time being (not for sale) now I have the unfinished end of the rear fender. If the original is not available is there a nice after market available that anyone knows about? Thanks, ~ Propjock58

I have used the generic ones available for the Gold wing, and they bolt quite nice. JCW has them for around $29.00 I think. ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, 99 Kaw Nomad, South Bend, IN

Myles, JCW shows two illuminated rear mud flaps on page 10 of their Winter Catalog, No. 95D-01, $49.99 and $59.98. Another, which I have, is on p. 23, non-illuminated, with a chrome insert and a Honda emblem, $19.98. On this latter one, the chrome insert had been removed when I got the 'Cade, leaving just plain black rubber. I'm adding two 9" LEDs horizontally, where the chrome was, along with a lighted reflector in the space above it. It's cheap, and it works. Good luck, ~ Andy, Midland, TX



PARTS WANTED: I need a heel/toe shifter & need the CD that tells all about Cades. Thanks, Bob

Bob: The heel/toe shifter is VERY hard to find, I think most of us are looking for that but only a few of us are lucky enough to actually have them. As for the CD, see this: Shop Manual and Parts Manual on CD

$22.00 (U.S) Contact Tracy at:  Good Luck, ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

OK, I too am seeking the heel/toe shifter. So I'll take a poll. First of all, how much are they going for?

If they were available, who would want one? I happen to have a machinist in my back pocket. He's a government worker so has lots of extra time. Yes, they should be cast, but the setup for that is costly. For a small number it is probably cheaper to machine them. ~ Bob Schindler, 86 LX

Holy Cow, Robert! Where the heck do you get pants with pockets that BIG? I can barely get a wallet and keys in mine! ~ Tracy

This is just a point to those who have never used a heel-toe shifter. The one I have on my Cade has a very annoying and "at first" down right terrifying situation. That is, the sole area around the heel of my boot got hung-up on the heel portion of the shifter as I stabbed at a downshift on the toe portion of the shift lever. This caused a temporary flurry of words I thought I had put away and sweat to occur on a 45-degree day. I am considering trying the standard shifter on mine 'cause after 36 years of riding with a toe-shifter the Cade had me kinda' spooked. I will entertain interesting trades with such perks for my sacrifice such as (Hmmmm) nah, no more first born children.... Well, you-all just come up with whatever and we'll deal...OK? Best to you, Bill the Fish Guy <:]{{{{{{=<


I'm looking for a rear mud flap for my 1986 Cavalcade LXE. I removed my trailer hitch for the time being (not for sale) now I have the unfinished end of the rear fender. If the original is not available is there a nice after market available that anyone knows about? Thanks, ~ Propjock58

Hi everyone, I'm Blake from Windsor Ontario, Canada. I haven't been on for a while but I'm still looking to have a replacement windshield sent to me.86' two tone brown Cade. I understand the replacement from JC Whitney is popular, so if there is anyone that could give me a shout. ~ Blake, Ď86 LX

Hey, Blake, go for the JC Whitney. I have one and it fits and works great! SlipStreamer makes it for JC. ~ Gerry in NY

Hi Blake, When you order a Cavalcade windshield from J.C. Whitney, they will send you a SlipStreamer windshield for under $100 (U.S.). The one I ordered worked just fine and was very clear. The OEM windshield from Suzuki is a lot more expensive than that. When you replace it, don't forget to take the metal grommets from the old windshield and use them on the new one. Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey Orlando, Florida

Shade Tree Powersports has the Slipstreamer for $77.99 part # 79-74 to order call 1-888-742-3387 they are in Middlefield, OH and big lake MN ~ Dan H.

Blake, I bought the Slip Streamer windshield from JC Whitney last year and am very satisfied. One comment though to install it I had to use a Dremel style tool to make the slots bigger for the oval shaped metal washers. Someone else mentioned having to do it too. Only took about 10 minutes (took longer to get the tool). ~ Al from Mass

Does this windshield come with the side wind deflectors?

The one from JC Whitney is very much like the stock windshield. If you are looking for something with side wind deflectors look at Precision Plastics site:  You will end up paying about $140.00 for one of theirs though. I have one and like it. It's not as heavy a gauge as the Whitney one, but I have had no problems with it and like it, especially in cold weather or hard rain as gives more protection. ~ Dennis Vanill, 

I am looking for a left cowl panel for an '86LX. Anyone out there have one for sale? ~ 

Cowl panels are still available. Bought both a few months ago, at about $90 each. Just be careful when you have to cut in for switches and vent lever. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Andy, I understand that the parts are available for the cowl panels.... Like the plastic bracket, which fit under the right hand side of the top of the cowl, I am also looking for the clear map pocket flip cover for the LXE. Thanks ~ Rod

anyone have a spare right turn lens for the front? to sell. 87 LXE, 

thanks. ~ brett

Hey Group, I'm looking for a left-hand louver, part of the Outer Cowling for an 86LX. This one is a single louver. Most bikes seem have a double louver at this location. This of course is a discontinued item according to Suzuki. ~ Dwayne 86LX


Please contact me directly, I will ship these parts personally from Bellingham and will NOT let Modern Motorcycle send them. This is the absolute end of everything I have. One lucky buyer will receive an "Original Cavalcade Owners Manual" previously forgotten, as I thought I had already given it away. Lucky Winner to be decided by random, reverse draw, as each item is sold. Contact hoses $75; me directly at  Rear Caliper. Right Rear Signal Light lens & taillight assembly is complete, (perfect condition): $50. "Combined value at dealer price, $400". Package price on Ignition Electrical Parts Package: 4 coils, 2 Igniters, 1 regulator/Rectifier: $375, "Valued at over $2000 retail at authorized dealer prices". Complete Rear Bumper including extra factory lights and switch: $250. The Time to Take Advantage of these Parts is now. Email me directly at 

I have been able to come up with some additional parts. I have a trunk for sale. The paint is rough on it but it is in excellent condition with no cracks. It has no holes from luggage racks or rails. I'm asking $150. I also have a set of front forks that are in excellent condition. The down tubes have no nicks or rust on them. I believe all you would need to do is change the fluid and put fork seals in. I imagine there is stock springs in them. I'll take $400. for the set. I also have an air compressor and an engine guard LX type with absolutely no rust. I have front and rear wheels (no rotors) and a rear brake caliper. I still have a few of the stock lids and pockets for either side of the fairing for $20 each.  ~ Dick Carte in Beeville TX

I need a set of engine guards so I can move the shifters I will have a set of lowers and large guards with lights for sale when I get my bike back ~ Bob Owen

I am selling my 1986 Parts Cavalcade, mostly all the trim stuff is gone but the operations parts still remain. Also the lowest mileage Cavalcade I'm sure in new condition! For Sale is my 1988 Cavalcade LX / only 15,400 miles! Any interest please email me at  Located in Kansas

I have two antenna brackets along with a CB antenna plus an new coax cable. The brackets can be easily spliced together and made to have AM/FM and CB antennas. One bracket has the bases to move the helmet locks to the rear of the bike. I'm asking $125 plus $10.00 shipping. I still have a couple of pockets with covers for each side of the fairing. If anyone is interested I have two rear bumpers (without the two side pieces). These are in great shape. $30.00 each plus shipping. Dick Carter

Anybody want a Heal-Toe shifter? I'll swap for the standard shifter. I'll never use the heal thingy, been riding without one too long, kinda set in my ways ;-). Thought somebody might be looking for one. Of course, the tough part would be swapping the parts unless somebody local wants it. ~ B. Walker" 

I have made two polished aluminum light bars they're almost identical to the one that is posted on the  web site, they're complete with a pair of 55watt driving lights, I think they're nice looking. The decorative panel in the center has a small gold eagle in it. If anyone is interested let me know at my

personal E-mail address and we will work out a favorable price. They attach at the TWO rear screws that hold the fairing to the inner brace structure BELOW AND BEHIND the headlight chrome ring screws. They have a lighted rocker switch, relay and necessary wiring. The driving lights are square type to go with the square headlight. Installation consist of removing two screws, installing Bar with two longer bolts/washers, and wiring, mounting switch, I only have made two at this time as my schedule is TIGHT, and as frees up will possibly make more???

RIDE SAFE ~ Walter n Maryland

To anyone who has to have everything... On my lunch hour I made a great score! The original tires have been replaced a few times the brakes are next and I think I may have found the Item to (help) finance my brake job, and to fulfill someone's dream of having all the right stuff. An as new, Suzuki Cavalcade full-coverage Helmet in the two-tone brown. The Visor is as clear as a bell. I am asking $120.00 + shipping. Digital shots are coming up as soon as I can get the camera out. Bill the Fish Guy <:]{{{{{=<

Body parts for 1986 LX for sale. Gold & Brown. Saddlebags; Trunk; Side panels etc... $1,000.00.

~ Rob Wynne,,  (559) 281-5030

I have a set of lowers and large engine guard with lights for sale I will need the stock engine guard as part of the deal please e-mail at  for pictures I might list on e-bay. ~ Bob Owen

I was just speaking with the OEM Desk at Competition Accessories ( ), and had them also check into the availability of Stainless Steel Brake Lines for our favorite ride. I was informed that they have a full set that they sell for $123.30. I was also informed that they can get any currently produced Suzuki part at a discount. It might not hurt to try them the next time we need anything, then report back to the group as to our experience. ~ Andy, Midland, TX


HI EVERYONE: I just wanted everyone to know that the parts I ordered came in today, they were packed in a professional manner, arrived unscathed, and are some good looking parts. I want to again thank M R Layton for the effort on his part to see to it that we devoted Cade riders are able to keep our monsters on the road and thank him for offering his pride and joy as a donor for our ailing steeds. And for his efforts to see to it that those parts were delivered as soon as they were. Ride safe. ~ Walter Ďn Maryland


Hello, Put new brake pads on front brakes. Both sets are the same. Brake seems to be now pretty tight...left rotor stays a little warm, right is hot ... and brown looking... Any ideas?? Ride On, ~ Wojo. 86LX

Wojo, It sounds like you might have a caliper hanging up. Also with the age of these bikes, there are TWO holes in the bottom of the BRAKE RESERVOIR. The large one lets the piston pick up the fluid to apply the brakes. THE SMALL (tiny) allows the fluid to return to the RESERVOIR to release the brakes, MAKE SURE there is no CORROSION, to plug either up, especially the small one as it will leave pressures on the calipers, GOOD LUCK! ~ "GIT DEM BRAKES FIXED" ~ Walter n Maryland


I hesitate to put in my 2 cents worth due to my respect for the mechanical expertise that you all exhibit but I will in hopes that I not show my ignorance too badly. Last year mainly due to the age of my Cavalcade & my desire to ensure that the binders do work well when needed most, I rebuilt the caliper pistons & seals. Upon disassembly I found a small bunch of gunk with-in the piston area that looked like hard grease along with some obvious corrosion in the casting caused by I assume condensation. My old Cade has always been garaged except when on a trip so any water that was migrated into the system probably is into all of yours as well. I cleaned the piston area, sanded the corroded area with fine sand cloth, installed new seals, flushed the system with new fluid, installed a new master cylinder kit, bled all air & put back into service. My brakes now work quite well & I feel confident that they will when I need them most. I would certainly recommend this service to all that have not done so. It is not that difficult to accomplish. Have a great day. ~ Darryl

Darryl, Your message is worth a lot more than 2 cents to me. My back brake has been running hot for some time. Just been dragging my feet on doing what you have done. Thanks for the reminder and good advice. ~ LU

Lu, Dragging your feet only works if you are traveling very, very slowly. ~ Jay

Thank you Walter and Darryl, I took the pads out, one was fine the other wore out much more. That 's the one that was getting the whole thing hot. Then I would squeeze the brake lever and push the piston back with metal rod. After exercising the piston for a while I got the brake to work. I considered this a temporary fix - scary thing to say that about brakes - but I couldn't bring myself not to ride to work today - sunny and 50's--- Tomorrow rain will be back, and I am going to get some parts for brake overhaul.

Thanks again, ~ Wojo, 86LX

Help: My front brakes went into melt down mode and blistered the rotors. Front wheel locked up. Can you get them from anywhere else other than Suzuki or are they still available. Calipers were already rebuilt. One rotor has .004" left in tolerance the other has .008 . ~ mike c., 86lx

Mike, There is some info on replacement brake parts at the Cav web site. Click this link to get there:  ~ Tracy

I AM in need of front rotors - they are few thousands over min. and way under in some areas, dealer asking bunch of money for 'em. I would love to find an after market source. Mike, why is your front wheel locked up? I am having nightmares about that myself, keep hearing some noise coming from front wheel. So far replaced wheel bearings, and brake pads. The noise is still there and is not a tire noise either. Ride On, ~ Wojo, 86LX, Kent WA

I was able to get rotors from EBC through my local dealer - considerably less than OEM. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Full set - front and rear? How much did they set you back? (Have to start planning for the impact on the budget.) ~ Andy, Midland, TX

I forgot exactly, but I think the fronts were about $125-150 and the rear was $160-180. I believe the pads were like $25/pr. I am having my calipers rebuilt in 3 weeks - I think one is sticking... and if not, it won't hurt! ~ Brian,

87LXE in CT

Since the front calipers are the same as the GSX1100F, the one with the electric screen, is it possible that the rotors are the same? I will look into that and let you guys know. ~ Dave, UK

Wojo: My brake pad broke and wedged itself under the remaining pad. Just a freak incident. ~ mike c. 86lx


Hi Riders, I noticed myself doing something today that is such a habit I never think about it. But, it occurred to me that some riders may not know about this trick, or may have forgot. It's kind of like being a defensive football or basketball player. (Soccer for all you outside of North America) You don't watch the other player's eyes. Watch how they move their feet. They may fake you with their eyes, but their feet will always point the direction they are moving. It's the same with cars, trucks and any vehicle with wheels. Any time you approach a vehicle coming from the side (right or left) don't look at the driver. Don't focus on the vehicle. Focus on the top of the front tire. You will see the tire move quicker than you will see the vehicle move. (Because the tire rolls, the top of the tire moves twice as fast as the vehicle itself.) You can also better see by how the wheel is pointed, if the driver is turning toward you, turning the same direction you are traveling, or crossing the road from your right to left, or vise versa.

This also works with vehicles headed toward you waiting to turn left. If you can see the front wheels, watch for movement. If the driver suddenly decides to cut in front of you, the split second faster you realize what they are doing may be enough to save your skin. I hope this idea helps someone. If anybody has a different opinion, please share. Ride with care everyone. I hope to see you at Cade Raid 2002! ~ Ride Safe, Jay 86 LXE "Blue on Blue" Sammamish, Washington USA

Jay, that was a good tip. I prefer to scan but always tended to look at the front of the vehicle. Now I'll add a check of the top of the tires. After a head on I was involved in several years ago I do like to look at the driver also. I was traveling through a parking lot at low speed early one morning and observed an approaching vehicle cutting awfully close to me. As I braked to a stop & looked from the front of the vehicle up toward the driver, I noticed that he had his head turned at a 90-degree angle to the left looking at a building. He hit me before I could get on the horn. Luckily for me I was in a cage. Unlucky for him, it had bubble gum lights on top. ~ Roy 86LX from MD

I agree. I watch the wheel instead of the tire even though it is true, the tire would move quicker than the vehicle or the wheel would, it just seems easier for me because the wheels are usually brighter and easier for me to follow. I took an advanced motorcycle course in Ohio after I'd been riding for 15 years. You'd be surprised how much your bad habits...and most you never even knew you had because you've been doing it ever since you first hopped on a motorcycle and took it for a ride come to light. It's a great idea even for those of us who already "know everything." Ride safe!! ~ Rick


Hey Everyone, I'm not sure about other states, but on some state routes in Ohio, the cracks in the road are filled in with a tar substance to keep water from getting under the pavement. However, when the road becomes wet this tar becomes very slick and the bike feels like it hit a patch of ice. There is no way to avoid these tar lines, I just try to stay nice and straight and keep the bike from sliding out from under me. When I get caught in the rain and I find myself on one of these roads, the pucker factor goes up and the speed comes down big time. I have new tires on my Cade, I think its the lack of 4 wheels on the road verses 2. Anyway, is there a good way to handle this type of road condition. I am truly open to all advice. When the bike hits this tar, it will slip out about 2 to 6 inches or until the rubber grabs the true pavement. Needless to say when your bike slips 2 inches from under you and then catches the road, the heart really starts to pump. Out of all the things to be afraid of while riding, this one is tops on my list, because it is something that happens suddenly which the driver has no control over; you just ride the slip and pray that it catches before it slides out too far. ~ Alvin Taylor, Newark Ohio, 87 LXE


Attention Pennsylvania Cavalcade Owner: I would like to request you assistance. Senator Tilghman has proposed a bill (senate bill # 248) that would prevent ANYONE younger than the age of 18 from riding as a passenger on a motorcycle. I am sure that many of us enjoy having our children and/or grand children go for rides on the finest motorcycle ever produced. If you agree that the state should not decide who is our passenger, please call, write or email your local PA senator. (To find your PA state senator's address & email you can go to- ) Thanks, ~ Dan '86LX


Hey folks, I'm trying to get my Cade started for the first time this year, and it just doesn't want to go. It rolls over just fine, but it just doesn't seem to want to "catch", actually there doesn't even seem to be a hint of it actually starting. This happened last year as well, but it did eventually go. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I might try to get it going? ~ Patrick

Patrick, For starters, make sure the kill switch is on, then that the fuel cock is on. Second, go through the motions to start it, but donít pull the clutch in. This will run the fuel pump and prime the carbs to get fuel in the engine faster. Also, make sure the choke is all the way on, maybe even turn the throttle a couple times to get fuel in the engine even faster. If that donít work, then I'd pull a plug or 2 out and check them over and also put them back in the plug wire and crank over to check for spark. Hope this helps. All I need is a couple new bolts and new motor oil and mine is ready for a test run after all the work I've done on it. Its in the 70's here today...... a great day to go for a ride....cya later Brian in IN 87 tt Gray LX

Don't forget to check the fuses. Sometimes itís something so simple ~ Kelly

My 87 doesn't start easy either after sitting for more than 3 or 4 weeks. If you have fuel and spark it should go. I have installed a piece of 1/4 inch OD Tygon tubing using Silicon Sealer into the Air Cleaner Venturi side and up through the plastic next to the Gas Cap. When it is difficult to start (More than 3 or 4 fifteen-second attempts), I inject a 5 second spray of WD 40. It works every time. Be sure to place a plug tube when not in use. Bill 87 LXE

This might sound simple but, did you try some fresh gas, I had to drain the tank also put a new filter on then I had to put a small amount of good gas in the carbs started up ran. put the air filter and box back on and she ran good. ~ Gerald 86LXE

Hi Patrick, So did you get your Cade started?? Was you able to get in a ride?? If so, What was the problem?? Just curious, as I'm sure other owners are too. ~ Brian in IN, Ď87 tt Gray LX

No, I didn't get it going Brian. I'm going to pick up some new plugs and give it another try before the weekend. It feels like there is no spark, it simply rolls over and over with almost no hint of it wanting

to go. ~ Patrick

Patrick, Any chance you need to replace your spark plug wires? Age caught up with mine not long ago and I had to put in all new. ~ Jay


Hi Group, I donít want to sound like I'm bragging, for those of you that didnít have good weather today..:-( But after tearing my bike apart and replacing all the seals in the secondary and final drives, draining, flushing, replacing the fluids in the secondary and final drives, engine oil, clutch, and having the back tire balanced, along with other routine maintenance, I was really eager to enjoy a nice ride. And when it warmed up into the 70's here, I just had to push myself to get the Cade roadworthy. I had to give

up on finding "motorcycle oil" , and after reading a few articles on the web, decided that regular auto oil will work just fine. (which it did, didnít even have any clutch slippage, which I had before the oil change) The Cade started right up for me and I ran it on the center stand to make sure I didnít have any leaks, then took it for a 20 mile test drive, checked it over again, then went out for a real ride. The only thing that I noticed wrong was some 90W oil getting on the exhaust making that horrid smell. I blamed that on temporary seepage out of the vent hose for the secondary drive, and it quit after about 100 miles. Now I rode this bike last year for about 3 months, but I guess I forgot how great a machine it is. The acceleration is fantastic, (which a new Amsoil air filter can be part of that). The ride is almost as smooth as my Buick, I didnít notice the weight problem, ( guess them 3 months last year could account for that) , all in all, I had a great ride and I enjoyed it a lot. ( so did my 4-yr. old girl :-) ) The Cade just went down the rode GREAT and I didnít notice the frost heaves, potholes, or lengthy crevices that normally toss a bike around. I didnít want to put it back in the shed and canít wait to do it again. HEY, maybe I can do my service route on it tomorrow. :-) Well sorry for being so long winded, but I just wanted to share some good times with ya'll instead of just my problems. Hope you all had as great a day as I did. ~ Brian in IN, 87 tt Gray LX

OK Fellow Caders and new members, As I said, I will continue the quest to get as many people as possible to put there info in the group Database There's 366 members and only 82 in this database. This is great way to find out who is in your area when you want to have a riding partner It only takes 2 minutes. So jump on the bandwagon so we can take full advantage of this wonderful group membership. Go to this URL address and fill out only the info you feel necessary for others to know who and where you are.  then click on "add record" ~ Brian in IN, 87 LX P.S. This is separate from Kenn G's state by state list


Someone mentioned an archive on the Yahoo site. How do I find it? I am looking for info on oil smell problems. The dealer says he needs to remove the engine to find out what the problems is. ~ Bob Morse


Bob, The number one place that will be leaking oil will be the driveshaft seal. Look for gear lube leaking onto the exhaust right behind the kickstand switch. ~ Jerry LX

Hi Bob, I can see where you may have gotten confused. We have a Yahoo chat room with somewhat of an archive system. That's not where you need to be. We started out with the email group at ONElist, then it was eGroups. Now this group is at Yahoo too, just like the chat room. You will find the extensive archives at the Yahoo email group. Here's the address:  

You will have to sign in, using your Yahoo User Name and Password, then look at the menu items on the left side of the screen. You'll want to go to the "Messages." There should be a search engine for you to use. Just enter the subject matter for your search and you will be given a list of messages that contain that subject. Hope this helps, Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida


Wife & I got all dressed up to take the Cade to Holy Hill Wisconsin for church. I had bike running & saw smoke coming from under the fuse box. Took the front off and could not find anything, no bad wires, etc.. Any help on what it could have been? ~ Gary, 86Cade, Greenfield Wisconsin


Hey Everyone, I'm not sure about other states, but on some state routes in Ohio, the cracks in the road are filled in with a tar substance to keep water from getting under the pavement. However, when the road becomes wet this tar becomes very slick and the bike feels like it hit a patch of ice. There is no way to avoid these tar lines, I just try to stay nice and straight and keep the bike from sliding out from under me. When I get caught in the rain and I find myself on one of these roads, the pucker factor goes up and the speed comes down big time. I have new tires on my Cade, I think its the lack of 4 wheels on the road verses 2. Anyway, is there a good way to handle this type of road condition. I am truly open to all advice. When the bike hits this tar, it will slip out about 2 to 6 inches or until the rubber grabs the true pavement. Needless to say when your bike slips 2 inches from under you and then catches the road, the heart really starts to pump. Out of all the things to be afraid of while riding, this one is tops on my list, because it is something that happens suddenly which the driver has no control over, you just ride the slip and pray that it catches before it slides out too far. ~ Alvin Taylor, Newark Ohio, 87 LXE

Alvin, Speaking only for myself, I expect a little bit of wobble each time that I transition across a tar line. I think that the tire your running may have a factor on how much. Mine are Dunlop 491's, and they do much better than the Bridgestone or Michelins that I have used. Other than that, the suspension stiffness (or lack of) may be a factor. I have a Super Brace with Progressive springs on my forks. Also good shocks may help. ~ Bill F.

Alvin, Like Ohio New York uses the tar on the roads. I also know the quick heartbeat it gives, not only on wet roads but hot, sunny days....the few we seem to get. The best defense I have found for it is to stay clear when possible then when need be cross at as much a diagonal as I can. Usually they are in seams or cracks which adds to the fun. ~ Dennis Vanill, 

Hey Everyone & Alvin, We also have those road snakes up here in Ontario. The best thing I have found is to avoid them if possible and if not possible then relax and let the bike ride through them. I also found that tire pressure makes a big difference in how they handle. Regards, ~ Rick

Alvin, Speaking only for myself. I expect a little bit of wobble each time that I transition across a tar line. I think that the tire your running may have a factor on how much. Mine are Dunlop 491's, and they do much better than the Bridgestone or Michelins that I have used. Other than that, the suspension stiffness (or lack of) may be a factor. I have a Super Brace with Progressive springs on my forks. Also good shocks may help. ~ Bill, 87 LXE (For Sale)

You know what really gets to me is the grates on a drawbridge. They make me want get off & walk across the bridge. ~ Gary Ď86 Cade, Greenfield, Wisconsin

We have a lot of bridges like that here in the Seattle area. I've been crossing them for years. My favorite

way to do it in dry weather is to get real loose in the saddle and just slightly weave back and forth. In

wet weather I think twice before choosing a route over one of those bridges. If I have to use a wet grading,

I don't fight the front wheel. It will want to wander just a bit. I keep relaxed control and guide her smoothly across the surface. It reminds me of riding on a cheese greater. Parmesan anyone? ~ Jay


If anyone is interested in a book that teaches better riding the following book was recently advertised in Motorcycle Consumers Guide: Proficient Motorcycling $24.95. Riding a motorcycle can be a dangerous activity, but reading Proficient Motorcycling can significantly reduce those risks by teaching people how to ride safer and smarter. Whether they are beginning motorcycle riders or grizzled veterans of the road, readers of Proficient Motorcycling are guaranteed to find insights, training exercises, and riding tips not found in any other publication in the world. Proficient Motorcycling offers plain talk about surface hazards, weather problems, wild animals, carrying passengers, group rides, and traveling, among many other topics. Culled from the famous series of articles of the same name by legendary rider training guru David L. Hough, Proficient Motorcycling is an absolute must-read for anyone who rides a motorcycle.  ~ Rick -,  Toronto, Ontario, Canada, Maroon 1988 Cavalcade LXE


Group, I don't want to sound repetitive but if you are on the internet or get files from any source other than your own machine you MUST run antivirus software or you risk a lot. A good package that is free can be downloaded at  The main thing to remember with any antivirus package is that it is only as good as the last time you upgraded it - in other words it can only protect you from viruses it knows about. The above package lets you upgrade from a menu option and a new data file of known viruses (about 600K) is available every 1-2 days. My own policy is that I first turn on my computer at the start of the day and then I check for an antivirus upgrade. I then go ahead and start using it. I am in the computer business and receive anywhere from 5-20 viruses emailed to me a week (I am not kidding) but in 20 years I have not had a single infection. This package is not any better than McAffee or Norton's but it is just as good, it is free and updates are available every couple of days. Regards, ~ Rick


Anyone familiar with the Nashville area care to recommend a good side destination for cruising Cades . we are planning to make a trip there next week. ~ Brett, 87 LXE, Silver On Black

Brett, One of my all time favorite rides in the Nashville area is the "Natchez Trace". It is a rode fraught with history. It started as an Indian trail & was then used by the "Kentuckians" as a road back to the north after floating their furs down the Mississippi. It was used by the underground railroad to transport slaves north during the Civil War era. The US Park Dept. bought it several years ago & developed into a National Park that is approximately 400 miles long. It is completely free of commercial traffic with a speed limit of 55, I think, with lots of interesting scenery & historical places of interest. It runs from Nashville to Natchez, Miss. There is one settlement approx. located in the middle called "French Camp" that was most obviously started as a French trading post but it still is in existence today as a school run by the Presbyterian Church as a school & boarding home for juveniles from troubled surroundings. I strongly suggest a lunch stop there, it is quite an experience. Excellent food, tremendous quantities, unbelievably cheap prices, & very quaint surroundings. You will easily find many areas where the original trail is very visible & you can walk in the footsteps of history. The only hazard is keeping the tears from your eyes. There are many excellent roads in the Nashville area & you can pick any road & find many interesting sights. You can not find a bad road in that area as long as you stay off I-40. Have fun & ride safe. ~ Darryl

In the middle Tennessee, there is some of the best motor cycling roads and areas that you will ever see. But, two questions, are you coming to Nashville for the " Nashville experience ", were you want to be a

" music tourist " for a week, or are you wanting to visit the greater Nashville area (which includes most

of middle Tennessee ). The middle Tennessee area is (north and south ) from the Kentucky state line to the Alabama state line, and from the Tennessee river ( west ) to the Cumberland mountains ( east ).

We have everything from civil war battle fields, historical home places like Andrew Jacksonís hermitage

( a must see ), the Jack Danielís and George Dickel distilleries, we even have the last " real " hippie commune " the farm ". We have a lot more than I have put here, so let me know when and if you are coming and if I can, we will try and make your visit to Tennessee "fun ".

P.s. If you like horses, we can maybe arrange a few tours of some Tennessee walking horses barns.

Bill Brooks 86LX, The Tennessee Lightshow,,  Shelbyville, Tennessee


I need new helmets and have found the 3/4 helmets from J&M corp. with the Microphone/speaker set up for 199.99 is this a decent price? Also, Full Face VS. 3/4 helmet with visor. Any thoughts?

It may not be "cool" but I wear a full face. I went over the bars once on another bike and would not have a full face now if I wasn't wearing a "full face" then. A 3/4 with a visor would not have protected my jaw and face. I kept that helmet just to show people what I was protected from. My two cents. ~ HeyJerr, 86 LXE, San Jose, Calif.

I prefer a full face, but it's such a pain when one wears glasses as I do. You lose the visor with full face, too. just my 1/50th of a dollar. ~ Dan H.

The full-face helmet is better in cold weather, rainy weather. I have 3/4 kind from Arai, I wish I had full. good price on the one you found, I paid $275 for the helmet and $185 for headset. ~

When I was looking to replace my full-face helmet a few months ago, I found some that would flip the chin bar and shield up out of the way with the press of a button. This would provide the protection of a full-face helmet while riding, yet allow you to easily converse, eat, drink, smoke, put on glasses, take pictures, pay for gas, etc when you stopped without taking your helmet off. One of the web pages I found selling the Shoei Syncrotec was:  It is a little pricey at about $400US. ~ Dave 86 LXE Blue

Dave, If you look around there are several manufacturers that have this type of 'flip up helmet' and are not as expensive. Regards, ~ Rick

Nolan Makes a couple of flip-up helmets called the N100 Classic or N100 Trend. They vary in price from place to place from $159 to $199.  is the lowest I have seen. ~ Brian 87LXE in CT

First, be aware that the climate down here is just a lot different from my family home in the Monterey, California, and also from my old stomping grounds of Knoxville, TN. For what it's worth, West Texas is all that you've ever heard of, and then some. It's now 12:30 AM, with an outside temp of 74*. The high today was about 88*, with 10-15mph wind. Tomorrow will be more of the same, and the forecast is for low 90s the first part of next week. ~ Our winter can get into the teens, but out summer makes up for it, with an average also in the high teens, and highs in the upper 20s. ~ I'm not talking sub-freezing. Like some of you, I've reservations about wearing anything other than a Full-Face, having also landed on my head once. (A Shoei S-20 was so badly damaged that the right side of the face moved like a cracked eggshell. I got to know the nurses at Ft. Sanders Presb. Hosp., Knoxville, with a concussion, a dislocated shoulder and a broken back. However, out here, reality rears its hot head very quickly. I own one of

each style, Half-, 3/4, and Full. For each a time and a place, but NEVER without at least something. ~ What I'm trying to say is that it's a decision we all have to make, given out taste, the weather, and our riding style, not to mention the baggage we carry. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Since we are all airing our feelings on helmet thought I'd toss my 2 cents in. I have both a 3/4 (Arai) and full face (Bell). The majority of the time I wear the 3/4 - its much more comfortable and much easier to put on and take off if you wear glasses, but living in New England it can get chilly at times. Then if I want to ride I wear the full face (also itís a big help in rainy weather). ~ Al from Mass

OK, I'm guilty of MNBF (Mid-Night Brain Fade); I think it comes from doing taxes and all the associated record keepin', filin', sortin' and cussin'. What I meant to say is that I ride with High-Beams on during the day - it's an old habit, caused by too many left turns being made in front of me. Bigger does not always mean more visible, especially when wearing Suzuki Gold for a skin color. I shall digress for a moment. Twice, in fact. In the mid-80s, in Simi Valley, CA, I made a left turn in a company van in front of a silver Ford at about 5:00 PM one evening. I never saw the car. Since my own vehicle at the time was a Suzuki GT-750, I had immediate thoughts of someone not seeing me in similar circumstances. I've had the high beam on during the day ever since. In the second circumstance, a good friend, one of my crew-members, was on his way to work one morning 2 years later on his KAW KZ-1000 when a high-schooler pulled out in front of him. Another crewmember happened up to the accident site within 2 minutes, to find Dave not breathing, his helmet smashed, and the kid saying over and over, "I didn't see him!" Yes, that light can be irritating to someone I'm behind; I try very hard to be aware of that. It is also to someone who's coming at me or who's waiting to turn from somewhere in front of me. The point is, I know what it's like to be hurt really bad because of a bike accident, and to lose friends because they weren't seen. Not me, not ever. Bright and conspicuous. In New Mexico, some 18 years ago, while owning a Delivery Service and using the bike for all my work, I wore a Safety Orange vest with my Logo on the back, and wore it all the time. When I started, I was immediately aware of other drivers giving way for me, even when they had right of way. I never expected such right of way, but when it's given to a bike rider - you - it's immediately noticeable. The lesson is simple: Be Seen. No matter what it takes. That's why the extra lights we install, and it's why the Hurt Report recommended riding with headlights on. It's also why Headlight Modulators sell so well. Again, to each his own. But I've been there. And I'm not going back. I wish I could still fit into that vest, though .... Andy Midland, TX

Hi, Ronnie & I have the Nolan flip face helmet, they cost £230 each but are worth it. ~ Dave, UK


I took a picture of a Cavalcade helmet to a sign maker I met. He matched the lettering font, made 2 decals (with shadowing), and applied them to my helmet. I just stood there with my mouth hanging open. Asked him what I owed him and almost DROPPED my jaw. Gave him the $15 and hit the road smiling. Now I got a Burgundy Cavalcade helmet with gold letters and red shadow. Gotta love them computers. ~ KennG

Ken, How about some pictures? Is the fellow still in business? Would he do more, but in the gold/brown? I've a gold 3/4 helmet that almost matches the bike, but no graphics, and I've a black full-face, also with no graphics, that I'd like to spiff up with some gold. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

I'll talk to him and get back. At last contact, he didn't seem keen on doing decals and shipping them out. He would prefer to put them on the helmet himself. I'll check. ~ KennG



Country Roads @ Buchannon, WVa. ~ Is anyone planning on going to the meet there in July? Hope to make that a camping run. I think it starts in the middle of the week and goes till a Sunday, will check into it all later, as I want to do the entire week in West Virginia and come home on that Sunday. ~ Walter Ďn Maryland


1988 Cavalcade LXE For Sale. This bike is loaded with all the accessories except a CB. Their are other accessories as well such as gel padding installed in addition to the inflated pads, trailer hitch and wiring. New stator last Fall, tires last summer, brakes checked and replaced as required. The seats have been re-upholstered just this past year. $7500.00 Canadian or Approx. $4650.00 US

If anyone is interested, I saw this in local paper. FOR SALE: 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE, loaded. $2,750. Tel. 715-382-4475. Located in west central Wisconsin. ~ Steve Konop

1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LX for sale in Virginia. New paint, tires, clutch, windshield, brakes, stator, etc.. Very nice and runs well. Approx. 57000 miles. Not riding. Built a VW trike. Consider VW trike trade. $3195.00 can email photo:


I know where there is a (Mint Condition) 1986 Cavalcade with 30,003.1 miles on it for sale. This bike has been ridden very little each year and meticulously cared for and stored in a heated garage each year. It seems to have every accessory that you could name on it. That includes CB, heel toe shifter, trunk rack, driving lights, custom rear bumper, Suzuki rear mud flap, driver adjustable back rest, new front and rear tires last Sept., new brake pads front and rear when the tires were installed, also new plugs and air filter, custom made dark brown sheep skin seat cover (purchase at Americade last year). It has a Sony Am / FM Radio w/ Cassette, New Progressive front fork springs, Dual electric 120 decibel horns, Maroon in color. This Cade is absolutely perfect in every way, both mechanically and cosmetically. If anyone out there is interested in this bike you can e-mail me and I will be happy to answer any of your questions. The asking price is $ 5,000.00 and because of its condition and care, I don't think that even the most ball busting haggler could disagree with this when they saw it. This Cade is in Vermont.

To anyone interested: With 10 registered vehicles on the property I have been informed that it is

time to release my 14-year-old out into the world. I keep telling her that is too young to face the hand of a stranger. She has been tenderly cared for by Uncle Rick (Gervasi) and myself her whole life. She has been showered

with many trinkets and bolstered for strength and durability. Although I cannot provide a dowry when she leaves, I will consider all offers for her hand. Her attributes are: Burgundy Dress with Gray Panels ~ Records of care and training for a long and enjoyable life ~ Medical history with no accidents or deformities ~ A parent who cares, ~ Bill Fargusson: 


I have my Cade in for oil leak repair and tune up. I have not had the carburetors balanced since I bought the bike. Should I have this done? ~ Bob Morse

Yes, definitely. ~ Gerry in NY

Bob, For the most part, unless one has had the carbs off the bike, or done major internal engine repair (upper end), carb balancing may not be necessary. There are some telltale signs that could indicate the need for a balance like a lope at idle, low power or less-than-smooth just-off-idle response. In severe cases, the bike may not idle at all. If everything's starting, idling, running, good mileage and such, I, personally would leave it alone. If it ain't broke. ~ Tracy

Thanks Tracy. I'll leave it alone. ~ Bob Morse

Help... Did I do something wrong. This afternoon I decided to drain & change the coolant. So I removed the left lower side fairing cover (loosen then radiator cap) and loosen the drain plug.. Drained out about 2 liters of coolant. When I went to refill the coolant through the overflow chamber in the upper right fairing (near the battery) I could only get a little over 1 liter in. Suggestions or comments please. Post or email me directly at  Thanks, ~ Dan, '86 LX

You need to pour it into the radiator directly, then into the overflow, just like a car. ~ Gerry in NY

Dan, I think some of the other members have expressed a similar problem. The system appears to be prone to air lock (or by a different name) that prevents, or at least inhibits, the replacement of coolant through the upper tank fill. Here is the link to some good advice on the Cav site: 

I think it will help answer your question. ~ Tracy

I found I had to remove the radiator cap, fill till the radiator was full, tighten the cap, and top off. Don't forget the little bottle of Bar's Leak. Mixed mine with the first half-liter I put in. ~ KennG

Group, Does insomnia make us think about our 'Caddies, or does thinking about our 'Caddies cause insomnia?

Tire Pressure: Who else has problems checking tire pressure? I've overly large hands, and checking tire pressure, even with the original Suzuki gauge, is a _itch, with a Capital _! Other than installing offset valve stems next time around, are there other alternatives?

Andy, I too had the problem with checking tire pressure. My wife took pity on me and purchased right-angled valve extensions for the Cade. This worked fine for about a month. The centrifugal force of the valve extension tore the valve stem leaving us at the roadside with a flat front tire. ~ Rick Bates

Hey all, I went to Wal-Mart and got ($4.99) MVP Superline digital tire gauge and for me it fits great. It is slightly angled at the neck and it's rounded like a screwdriver. It's 6" long. ~ Dan H.


Hello Caders, My 86 LX has a tendency to miss or backfire quite a bit. It's really noticeable in 3rd gear at 3000 rpm, when I'm tooling down the road at a wicked 35-mph. It is really conspicuous when I let off the throttle. It's not loud, but you can definitely hear that it's missing. Things to change/fix? ~ Bob Schindler, Jupiter, FL, 86 LX

Bob, Back to basics on this one. Check the plugs, air filter, carb slide movement (take off the air cleaner and rap it up a bit) to make sure all of the slides are moving and in unison. (It won't rap up very much but you should be able to tell if they are all working.) is the gas fresh, is the fuel filter clean, etc. etc. Backfiring is usually caused by: too lean of a mixture in one or more cylinders, a fouled plug or two, a bad coil or ignition box (firing only intermittently), a carb slide sticking in the down position (not allowing the needle valve to richen the mixture, poor gas (like last year's).

Some other possible issues are carb sync, slide diaphragms, ignition timing (unless someone's been screwing with the timing, it probably ain't the timing), too lean an idle mixture, float level too low, etc. etc. Start with the easiest/cheapest and check or do one thing at a time. ~ Tracy

Backfire? Check the boots carb to head for cracks or small holes ~ Gus

Tracy, I think the reason you bike is backfiring is that you have a loose or even maybe a hole in one of the carb intakes. I know I had the same problem after my wreck.. I hope this helps. It is taking in more air that needed. ~ Rod

Hmm, check your plugs to see how your fuel is burning (light gray is good, dark and oily is bad). Then, add some carb cleaner (Carb Medic is real good) proportionally for our tank size. Then see if your idle speed is too high or too low ( 950-1150 is ok ). The idle speed adjustment screw is on the left side of the center cover. If you look under the cover without removing it, there is a brass knurled screw. That is the idle adjustment screw. Change your air filter. Also, blow out or change the air filter. These are the basic, easy things to check. If these are ok, then carb surgery may be needed to check float springs and overflow valves, diaphragm assemblies, etc. Start simple. ~ Gerry in NY


Hi, My map pocket was sitting on the workbench where I thought it would be safe. But while grinding a part got caught and was catapulted right into the clear pristine map display cracking it very badly. I have read several digest from time to time where people have either located or had a source for the LXE map pockets on the throttle side. Thank you for you help, ~ Rod

Nancy and Rod, I can get another map case if needed. I've got a new email address  if youíre interested. ~ Al from Mass

Group, The last I knew Gervasi Cycle had a couple of map holders in stock. They are factory new and probably priced accordingly. They may also have some used parts available. You'd have to call them to find out. (425) 259-6875. ~ Jay 86 LXE "Blue on Blue" Sammamish, Washington USA

Rod, I had the same problem. I was too cheap to spend good money to buy a new one so here's what I did. I cut out the broken clear window with a sabre saw, filed the edges so it looked clean, inserted a piece of Plexiglas behind the cover & glued it in with super glue. It looks pretty good & only Cavalcade people would know that it is a patch. If you want the real deal this repair can work Ďtil the new one arrives. Have a great day. ~ Darryl


Decals: My decals are in mostly good shape, except for the rear of the trunk; it's showing its age around the now-fading edges. Has anyone removed them? Permanently? Replacements are available, last I checked. Has anyone tried replacing them? How hard was it? ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Andy in Midland, I recall that one of our members here in Washington State removed all the old decals from his Cavalcade using a hair dryer. ~ Jay

Jay, That's what I'd thought I'd remembered. But did he replace the decals with another set, or what? How difficult was the replacement? ~ Andy

Andy, He did, but keep in mind that he is a professional artist and probably has some skills in that area that you and I do not. What you might do is take the decal and the cleaned bike to a body or paint shop that does quality work. Let someone with skilled hands do the application. I plan to have some similar work done on my trailer this Spring. I would not trust myself to do it with the level of skill I'd want it done. ~ Jay


Headlight Bulbs: Has anyone changed to higher-than-normal wattage? To what size? Any bad results?

Group, Who has changed headlight bulbs, and to what? What wattage? Blue bulbs? I have a new Blue, 100/90, ready to install, but am a little cautious, although I ride with the stock bulb on High Beam all the time. ~ Andy, Midland, TX

I have found out if you take off the cable from the left side that makes your light go up & down, then take off the chrome that holds it in .take the screws that hold the light. Then pull it out take off the rubber but behind light. Take out the old, put in the new, put it together again. Make any sense?? ~ Gary, Greenfield, Wisc.

I am not good at telling people how I did it. But, I have a new light too and have had trouble with the bumps or anything like that. Maybe you can help me found a broken wire on the negative side of battery. Can I cut the connector & just wire them together again? I also took the Cade for a ride, got about 7miles from home when the

lights went low. I started for home and all power went out. The Cade stopped. I got a jump that lasted about 5miles. Stopped again, all went out. After another jump, I got home. I have lights again after charging it up, but I donít know if I should go out or not ? Any help would be great. Thank you all. ~ Gary 86 Cade, Greenfield Wis.

Andy, Please do not ride behind me with your headlight on high beam. Why would you do that? ~ Jay

Over the winter I had installed a PIAA ĎSuper Whiteí bulb. Standard wattage as stock, but more white as compared to stock bulb. I usually ride during the day with the high beam on, but at night, I switch to low beam and fog lights (for oncoming traffic). I figure that the Cagers already hate bikers enough without me shining my high beam at them in the darkľ Bulb works really well. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Are you talking about the trunk lights? They JC Whitney auxiliary marker lights - 06fy3372u- $9.99 each.

Be sure and get the box of bulbs too, they are hard to come in auto stores. I looked all over this week, and finally found them in my local motorcycle store. ~ Denny Potoczky, South Bend, IN

Why don't you just use a modulator instead of high beams? It is far more eye catching.

I find the headlamp modulators annoying and distracting. In my opinion they are more of a hazard than a safety device. Pulsing lights do more than just attract attention, they can effect the nervous system and cause a driver to lock their focus on them. As you recall, we do tend to drive toward objects we lock our focus on. Not that a driver would drive into you because of your pulsing headlamp. But, the guy behind you could be very much at risk if an on-coming driver fails to see him because he is locked on to your pulsing light. Just like pipes that are too loud, lights that are too bright or distracting annoy others and donít increase safety. I know Iím probably in the minority on this and if there are any studies that prove me wrong, Iíd be happy to reconsider. But, meanwhile I stick with my opinion that the best safety device is the one inside your helmet. ~ Jay

Even though I am the one who brought up the modulator, I, too, find it annoying. And, now that you mention it, I remember that drunk drivers tend to run into the back end of copsí cars on the side of the road because of the "pretty lights." That's what I like about this group. Differing opinions help others make informed decisions. ~ Jerry


Hello To All Members, Some time ago I was reading our daily Cavalcade Members E-Mail and someone was talking about a neat little Volt Meter that was easily mounted to the dash board of a Cavalcade that could be purchased. As I recall, this little meter was rectangular in shape approximately 2-1/2 inches in length, and approx. 1-1/4 inches high and about 3/8 inches thick. It could be mounted with sticky back tape that came with it or it could be recessed into the fairing. It connected directly to the batteries positive and negative terminals. The cost as I recall was around the $ 40.00 range.

The only thing that I don't remember about it was (the most important thing) where do I purchase it? If anyone out there could help me with this I would be very grateful. Thanks In Advance, ~

Butch Trombley, 1986 Cavalcade Owner & Group Member For 1 Year Now

Butch, One is at the following, ~ Jerry 86LX

Anyone that's interested, I got my C-volt voltmeter today. It's about 2" by 1 1/2" with self-adhesive backing. Installed in about 15min. two wires. I mounted it above the right speaker grill and ran the wires down behind the speaker without drilling any holes. The only down side would be that it is not lighted for night-time and it is a little pricey at $49.00. ~ Jerry 86lX

Ok, now you guys have me intrigued. That voltmeter from Evolution Cycle looks pretty nice. Where do I get info on that one? Also, can I get a part number for the one from J.C Whitney? Thanks everyone. ~ Rick

The part number from evolution cycles is 80035. Good luck. ~ Gerry in NY

Gerry, I'm also interested. I've searched the Web, but have only found Evolution Custom Cycle, the big twin mfg. in Temple, AZ. Where is your Evolution Cycle located? Is there a web site? How much did the unit cost? ~ Andy

Group, Did anyone get an answer from Gerry (Germann1) about where Evolution Cycle is, how to reach them and about how much his voltmeter cost? ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Another alternative is Radio Shack - they have an IC circuit auto battery voltmeter with six different color LED's for only $5.99. It is part number 22-112. The six LED's indicate various charging levels from low battery to high level charge from the alternator - (less than 12 volts to over 14 volts). Each light lights up in succession as the battery charges to higher levels by the alternator or charger. I tried it on my battery and it works great. It is small enough to mount in the space below the right speaker. If one is resourceful, you could remove the inside PC board from its case and mount it under the fairing with six small holes drilled for the six LED lights to shine through. For six bucks plus tax, how can you go wrong. I took someone's advice from the group and dropped an extension cable from the overhead garage door opener to the bike, with my small 12 volt battery charger attached. I can attached it easily now while sitting in the bike seat. Next project is driving lights for the Cade and new brakes on order from Dennis Kirk for the front. Two front Ferodo brake pad sets were $24.99 X 2. I micrometered the rotors and they are still just slightly over spec. Craig


A fully charged healthy battery under no load (neglecting surface charge) will have a terminal voltage of 12.5-12.8 volts. Under load that voltage drops to 11.5-12 volts very quickly, especially a motorcycle battery. If the alternator quits when running the voltage will drop below the 12.5 volt level immediately. There are three numbers that are significant in judging the state of a charging system for a lead acid battery. The 12.5-12.8 volt level for full charge under open circuit conditions. The "float voltage" at which the battery is neither charging nor discharging - typically

this is 13.2-13.8 volts. The "end of charge" voltage, usually 14.0-14.5 volts - above this level gassing and electrolyte depletion begin. The actual numbers depend on the plate material and electrolyte in the battery. Lead-antimony plates range in the lower numbers, lead-calcium plates are slightly higher, while dry-cells and gel-cells are higher yet. There are also variations in manufacturing that will make these numbers less than absolute, but for practical purposes they are close enough. Automotive electrical systems have three basic components, which are; energy source (alternator), energy storage (battery), and energy using (load). The alternator must supply all the energy to operate the load and replenish the battery. The load uses the energy supplied by the alternator and/or battery. These three components are in parallel, so the voltage across each of them is the same. The currents through them, however, are different. In order to know the exact state of the system at all times requires a voltmeter and at least two ammeters (three if you can't add or subtract). Any less and inferences must be made from incomplete data. This isn't all bad, we do it every day in just living and usually with a good deal of success. Suppose there is only one instrument, either a voltmeter or ammeter. The voltmeter is across the system and the ammeter is in the negative lead of the battery Ė in this location the ammeter gives the most information as it indicates both charge and discharge of the battery. The readings on each can indicate something, but some

inferences must be made. In each case the engine is running.

Voltmeter reads 12 volts: Alternator failed. ~ Just started the bike and the battery is charging. ~ Engine rpm to low. ~ Battery has a truly shorted cell (most failures are open cells).

Voltmeter reads 13 volts: Alternator ok.

Voltmeter reads 14 volts: Alternator ok.

Voltmeter reads 15 volts: Alternator ok. ~ Possible voltage regulator failure.

Voltmeter reads 16 volts: Alternator ok. ~ Probable voltage regulator failure.

Ammeter discharging @ 15-20 amps: Alternator failed

Ammeter charging @ 5-10 amps: Alternator ok ~ Just started the bike and the battery is charging. ~ Battery has a truly shorted cell (most failures are open cells). ~ Failed voltage regulator

Ammeter neither charging or discharging: Alternator ok ~ Battery failed - open circuit ~

Battery charged - alternator @ 13.2 volts (more or less) ~ BobL


Yes, you can cut that connector out and hard wire the negatives together. I had suggested that maybe we all should check this as I had a problem with mine. Those black wires go directly to the rectifier and I'm sure that if they are not making good contact that it will definitely cause a charging problem. And if continued to run in this condition might cause further problems to the charging system. MY problem was battery acid had gotten into the splice causing the Copper wire to corrode losing contact RIGHT IN THE CRIMPED area and was only charging at around 11.50 volts ONCE I replaced that whole plug with

New splices it jumped to 14.25. RIDE SAFE "CHECK DEM CONNECTORS" ~ Walter n Maryland

Walter, thatís what happened to me and fried my rectifier and stator so we put all new in and cured the problem. ~ Chopper

What's the trick? I replaced my battery with the cheaper one (without the hole) Now how do I get the battery water light to go off so I can see the clock? Thanks, ~ Mike - NW Arkansas

Opted for the battery without the hole for the probe huh? Me Too! I very carefully made my own hole, inserted the probe and guess what? The probe doesn't know the difference. As long as it is in the battery juice, it works. Just be ultra careful that you don't hit the plates when you drill or you'll be getting a new battery a lot quicker than you thought. ~ KennG

I have a similar problem. My battery is good, but I believe I've damaged the sensor. I remember someone detailing how to make another sensor. I think it was Spike. If anyone remembers or knows please reply. Thanks, ~ Dan

You can always do what I did and replace one of the filler caps with the probe. No need to drill a hole. ~ Dave



Does anyone out there have any opinion about replacing the original rear air shocks on the Cavalcade with the best Progressive 412 Series Gas-Charged ( Non-Air Shocks ) . I have been told by the people at Progressive that if I were to replace my original factory ( OEM ) air shocks with their ( Progressive ) 412 Series Spring # 03-1364C and their 412 Series Gas Charged Shock Body # 12-1206B, that this combination when assembled together, would make up a complete replacement mechanical spring shock that would give me 5 individual settings to choose from. As it stands right now, the original shocks although air adjustable, are not hooked up to an LXE Automatic Leveler Compressor System. My Cade does not have this feature. It has become a little inconvenient to manually reset the proper air pressure in each of the shocks ( 30 lbs. when riding solo and 40 lbs. when riding two up ) which takes approx. 4 or 5 minutes. There is nothing wrong with the O.E.M. shocks that I have on the bike, they work perfectly fine if set properly and they do not leak at all. The only reason that I would consider changing to the 412 Progressive's for, would be if they would be an improvement in any way over the O.E.M. system. I can think of one improvement already. The ease of simply slipping the spanner wrench over the shock body and turning it left or right to make the necessary change needed for solo or two up riding. I am told that the shocks can be installed so that the adjustment can be either on the top or the bottom. I would definitely have them on the bottom. I have already looked, and there seems to be plenty of room to accept the spanner wrench just under the bottom of each saddlebag for easy adjustment. Please, anyone out there give me your two cents worth or more if you prefer. I can't go wrong either way, pros or cons concerning this matter, I need your collective thoughts and advice before I make any decision about this.


Can anyone tell me what possible problem I am looking at with my recently purchased '86 GT Cade. I just had carbs re-jetted and new boots put on and she runs like a champ. However the other day I was running her fairly hard and then the next day began to hear a kind of rattling vibration noise at the right lower crankcase. It is not noticeable when under load and seems to happen on deceleration after a 3500 to 4000 rpm rev.......If anyone can help me diagnose this I would greatly appreciate it! I have no service book as of yet and to be honest do not know the anatomy of this engine YET! could it be a chain needing tensioning? is there a chain under this cover?

Probably the water pump. ~ Tracy

Thank you for your response. Could it be the water pump chain? it is chain driven correct? Thanks, ~ Nick

Yes, it is chain driven. From what I understand from reading other posts about the failure of the water pump, it is probably the bearing or turbine that is going bad. Possibly the chain. Some of the others may chime in with different thoughts, though. ~ Tracy

Thank you Tracy....any idea as to where I might find a water pump and what kind of $$ I am looking at?


I'm on my 4th water pump and they never made any noise before they went out. No warnings at all. ~ Eugene, San Diego

I replaced my water pump last Sept. and ordered it from Suzuki at a cost of about $170.00 but it was better than my trying to install seals and bearings. Pretty simple nuts and bolts but I am a mechanic on heavy equipment. Hope mine doesn't go out very often. ~ Frank in Indy 86LX

I will bet you any amount that this Ďrattlingí is the torque link running from the swing-arm to the frame, in front of the brake caliper on the right side. I got the same problem. I think it just needs to be tightened a little more. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

As stated, the torque link is a good place to start looking. Mine started making noise. I put new bolts in and torqued to specs and it was ok. But still have the noise on front right side. Been that way for 4 yrs. Very slight ticking at times and as stated I think it is water pump and chain. Will replace them when I get the urge. ~ LU

Be careful. The brake reaction rod coming of the rear caliper makes a rattle buzzing sound at low rpms if the bolt in the swing arm end of the rod wears. You can check this by putting the bike in neutral and slowly bringing up the rpm. If you hear the sound touch the reaction rod to see if it goes away. ~ Actually it's a shouldered bolt and you have to have the hole resized or a quick fix is to put a washer under the bolt. ~ Phil, 86LX

What about the cam chain needing tensioned? the noise almost sounds as a scraping kind of noise rather than a rattle? Thanks for all the replies. ~ Nick


I'd suspect that the Cade has hydro lifters, but I'm not sure. Sounds like I might have a tiny bit of clatter on one at idle. Just curious about what's in there, and haven't got the CD yet (It's on the way). ~ B. Walker

Yes, it has a form of hydraulic lifters. Most owners have spoke of a light ticking noise. Many times, though, a change to a better oil softens it. ~ Tracy

That's what I suspected. The oil was in need of a change when I got it and a bit too much oil was in there. I changed the oil as soon as I got home, drove around a bit and I'll be changing oil and filter in a few days. That may clean it up a bit. ~ B. Walker

Golden Spectro 4 quiets them down nicely; you get to hear the rumble from the motor better. ~ Gerry in NY


Well gang, finally got my Cade back together and running goooooood. Is Americade here yet? ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE

Hey, Denny love your bike. Maybe because it looks so much like mine. Extra lights in mostly the same places. I do not have the rails around the bags that wrap around either but I want to tell you what I did. I got a piece of sheet brass. I had it bent almost like an elongated "z" just stretch the top to the left looking at it. Then I had it chromed and drilled 4 holes and mounted 4 amber marker lamps. It looks great and adds chrome and lights to a dull area. I mounted it to the plastic using large rubber washers so I wouldn't break the plastic. If I had a digital camera Iíd take a photo but I donít have one. If interested, Iíll take measurements again. Your bike looks great. ~ Larry from Kingston MA


1st Question: I've noticed that sometimes I don't get all the messages that are posted. For example, during these past 3 days, I've received messages that were responses to other messages that I'd not received/ Upon checking the Yahoo Groups Cavalcade_USA site, I see that indeed several messages are there that I had not received. What causes the problem? How can it be corrected? ~ Andy Midland, TX

A: This is one of those things that cannot be explained, except by saying, "Sometimes things get lost in the mail." Yep, that's what I said .... even E-mails get lost sometimes. In this group situation, when Yahoo is sending out the E-mails to Cavalcade_USA, glitches can cause some of the E-mails to drop out. Mostly, the E-mail system is great. Since the E-mails are basically free, we can tolerate a few glitches every now and then. The internet cables are getting old, there's static on the telephone lines and there's not a thing you can do about not getting an E-mail, on the occasion that you would miss one. Sorry, I wish I could give you a better answer, or tell you to change a setting. This one is not that easy. ~ Bob Ramsey Orlando, Florida

2nd Question: When visiting the Cavalcade_USA site and looking at old messages, I used to be able to see any pictures (jpegs) that were attached. Now, I only see a box that describes the attachment and gives me the option of downloading. I've checked 'My Preferences' and 'Delivery Options', to find nothing that seems appropriate to this problem. Any suggestions, or do I have to download each picture instead of seeing it on the site? ~ Andy Midland, TX

Andy, I guess you're going to have to download the pictures, if you want to see them. When I first set up Cavalcade_USA, I opened the account at ONElist then transferred everyone to then transferred everything to Yahoo!, where we are now. Since the change, KennG, Don Rogers (Cavalcade_USA Moderators) and I have had to re-figure out how everything works in this new environment. In fact, we all had trouble getting into the site. If there are some settings we can change to make it like it was before, we haven't found the right buttons to push yet. We'll keep looking though. These are probably the best "non-answer answers" I can come up with. (smile) Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey Orlando, Florida

Bob, Thanks for the response. I've just finished a follow-up to my ISP, and have maybe discovered the problem. First a little background. ~ Like many locations, ISPs were Mom & Pop businesses, run by the local founders until bigger organizations realized that they were revenue generators. Local ISPs were bought out, then their Internet connections removed, instead channeled into one location now serving whole regions instead of just the local community. "Cost effectiveness," we were told. ~ More and more ISPs were purchased and 'improved,' and the bottleneck at the customer's end grew so bad that they started changing to ISPs that better served their needs. ~ I've already changed ISP's once, for just this problem. Now I've found that my current ISP is going bankrupt for that same reason. They've lost so many customers that they can no longer pay for the upkeep of their servers (Technicians), and their Tech Support (part-time phone flunkies, 180 miles away at the "Region") couldn't give a straight answer if they

tried. Seems they'd rather continue to give atrocious service and take my money than let me know of the change. ~ I'd already changed my Internet ISP to Cable @ Home earlier this week because of ongoing access problems, but had not yet changed my email over. That will be done immediately. ~ Thanks again for your help; I'd not otherwise have pursued the problem until my email fell on its face. ~ LOL - this group can handle ANYTHING! ~ Andy, Midland, TX


Hey, Andy, as long as you are here with us and the Cade is in the garage waitin' for ya...that's all that matters. Take your time. ~ Gerry in NY, Ride Safe, Stay well !!

Gerry, Thanks for the encouragement. This is a whole new aspect of life for me. All the injuries of the past have been no problem, but this - well, lets just say that after being active all my life, it's a

change. I'm going to try for the Ft. Davis Rally this weekend, even if I have to take the cage and my new cart. LOL - an outdoor-rated, twin-motor 'Mobility Cart.' It's almost as much fun as the 'Cade. Now,

if I can make a trailer that the cart will fit on... ~ Andy, Midland, TX


I just recently purchased a new Cavalcade emblem for the front chrome fender tip, cost about $24, and was GOLD COLORED! I am now the proud owner of a 1987 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE Gold Edition :) ~ Brian


Anybody got a cure for numb butt? ~ Dick Carter

Dick, It's called a Russell "Day Long" Saddle. But, you have to lose the air bladders. Ride Safe, ~ "Day Long" Jay

Yes install a gel pak in your seat on top of the air bag. It is widely >used >in wheel chairs or for people who sit for extremely long periods, it is >available at places who sell equipment for disabled people.

I agree, and I got the Airhawk seat, which is the best. It is not as popular as the gel seats because it cost about 175. compared to 75 for gel seats. Buy one in about a month and use it for 90 days, if you are not satisfied just return it for a full refund. I was told it was very rare that any are returned. ~ Bob

Kegal....kegal...kegal. A simple exercise you learn at child birth classes. I thought the person who told me this was nuttso too. They work. ~ KennG


Ya know I'm really getting leery of this site. was real pleased to find it and realize I wasn't the only Cade in existence> BUT ya know what when I started writing about the intermediate gear box seals, seems a bunch of other Cades discovered they had a problem also??? I read on the site that the radiator tanks have a tendency to crack, I ride to myrtle beach and SURE enough mine develops a crack. Some one writes in about changing a head light, Yesterday. I get on mine LAST NIGHT to go out and guess what YEA!! the low beam burns out just as I round the corner, I know one thing when I get to AMERICADE and there's more than two of 'em together I'M GOING TO HIDE OUT AND SEE if they really do communicate?????? I'M starting to believe we have something here that just might be SUPERNATURAL. And there might just be a CADE LAND SOMEPLACE. I'm getting to the point I'M almost AFRAID to enter the garage after dark, IT'S almost like owning a two wheel "CHRISTENE" and if that durn radio starts playing again with the key hanging on a nail I DO KNOW A TRICK. MY CADE DID tell me this morning on the way to work if I'd treat her nice and fix the seals like I was supposed to do last summer, and if I'd fix her leaking expansion tank, and change that burned out light that she would let me ride trouble free this summer. SOOOOO guess what?? she's torn apart and work has begun. RIDE SAFE treat'em nice THEY do have a PERSONALITY ~ Walter N Maryland

Well Walter. after five years of ownership and reading all the emails several months ago everyone was writing about the radio switches sticking. A few days later I was ordering them. A few weeks after that my friend was ordering his switches. We repaired them at work. It was very strange. ~ Bob Tucker


Group, There is a Cavalcade Club in the land of my ancestors and they now have their web site up on the Internet. Click the following URL to go to the site: Look for the button that says "English Page," click that and you can read what it says. They also have some cool pictures. Having traveled there several times by car, train and air, I'd love to have a few weeks in the Scandinavian countryside with my trusty Blue Cade. Take a peek at their site. Tak skal du har! ~ Jay


I was wondering how many early model 86' Cades are out there. I'm trying to order a Superbrace for the early model.. before VIN# 103764 Seems the earl model is not available unless there are more request. Has anyone ordered this product and is it worth it? Thanks ~ Blake

Blake, I added the Superbrace to my 86 Cade last year. It's well worth it, noticed a difference in handling immediately. ~ Patrick Frey, Aurora, IL, 86 LX

I have a super brace on the 86 vin # 102002. didnít help too much. ~ Bob Decker

I'm #103265, and I want one, too. What's the story? ~ Andy, Midland, TX

Hi bdecker, why do you think the early model vin# brace doesnít do much good. I understand there was a change in fork design in late 86' but what would be so different in the change. ~ Blake

The change had to do with the lower part of the brace. Early 86's have :legs" (if you will) that go inside the forks. Late 85 & up take a brace that looks more like a brick. What the brace does is stiffen the relationship between the two forks and help eliminate what is known as "fork walk". Once you put the super brace and the stock brace side by side, you'll understand clearly the differences and why it works. Put one on my 87 LXE 3 years ago and what a difference. Someone would need a check with five or more numbers to the left of the decimal point to talk me out of mine. NUFF SAID !?!! ~ KennG

I have a good used Super brace that is for the early model. I mistakenly bought it thinking mine was an early one, but it's not the case. I'll sell it if some one wants it. I also have a rear mudflap, that has a broken frame, I had it welded once but one of the welds broke again. If someone's interested, they can e-mail me ~ Denny Potoczky, South Bend, IN

To All Cavalcade Members / Also Blake and Andy, I just finished reading my Cavalcade Groups e-mails, and I see that there is some interest growing about the ( Wonderful ) Super Brace fork brace. I know what you are going through in your attempt to purchase a Super Brace fork brace for your early model 1986 Cavalcades with a serial number under 130765 part # 3300. Shortly after I purchased my Cavalcade last April 1, 2000 I noticed a slight wobble in the front end when I was going into a corner ( Right or Left Made No Difference ) and after exhausting all possible remedies that my mechanic thought might be attributing to the problem, I went on line and asked this group for their help and or suggestions.

One member suggested that I try to purchase a Super Brace. I called the manufacturer in California and had the good fortune to speak to the owner a Mr. Gebauer. This man is the salt of the earth, and he was so helpful and most accommodating. He explained to me that he no longer manufactured the # 3300 brace for the early model Cavalcades. Much to my surprise as our conversation went on, he graciously offered to make up a special run of these braces if I could come up with an order for at least 15 braces. To show you what kind of a man Mr. Gebauer is, he offered to make this small run of Super Braces up and sell them to our members for only $ 89.95 plus shipping and handling. The price over 10 years ago was $ 99.95

As soon as I finished thanking Bob Gebauer I sent out a call for help from our membership explaining the whole situation and asking for their orders in an attempt to come up with 15 promises to purchase. In less than two days our members e-mailed me with their orders and in turn called Mr. Gebauer ( 1-800-322-4783 ) with their credit card information and their individual orders. Bob's e-mail address is: . He kept me closely informed as to the shipping date of our Super Braces. I received my Super Brace in less than 3 weeks from the time of my order. And all of the other members that had placed their orders also received their Super Braces.

I can not sing enough praise for Bob Gebauer. If everyone in this world were so accommodating and as kind a gentleman as Mr. Gebauer, we would all indeed be much better off because of this. After installing my Super Brace on my Cade, I could not believe the difference that it made. This one single piece of equipment made all the difference in the bikes handling. Seriously, I would not operate the bike without it.

I would almost be willing to bet that if one of you were to take the time to contact Bob and tell him about this e-mail and your problem, that he might just be willing to do it all over again. If you do, please tell him that I will always be thankful to him for what he did and that I wish him the best. You won't be sorry if you are lucky enough to purchase one of these Super Braces. ~ Best Of Luck, Butch Trombley, Cavalcade Owner & Member

Hey, thanks for the info Robert. I have spoken to Bob Gebauer on the phone and you are right he is a very helpful person. Now if there are anymore members with early models Vin# below 103764 they should email Bob direct maybe just maybe he will manufacture a few more. Thanks again Robert. ~ Blake 86' 2tonebrown Cade.

Another cause for a wobble could also be the rear shocks. If they are weak, like mine are, almost any bump in a turn will cause it to bounce. Since it is tilted at that time, the bounce allows it to wobble a little. I'm hoping that the shocks I ordered will fix the problem.........that is if they ever get here. ~ Jerry


J C Whitney has some listed in their catalog. I use a Fram 6018 on my 87 LXE. I've been told anyone who carries Fram filters should be able to get them for you. Spectro 15 w Fork oil. Progressive Suspension has fork springs. Slick 50 gear lube. Spectro 20w50 engine oil. Grease the splines on the finals every time you have the rear tire off. Fill your radiator before you cap it and fill the overflow tank and don't forget the Bar's Leak. Headsets are available from Sierra Electronics in Ohio. These are just my preferences. Don't know what else to tell you....hang around and

ask away...the info and suggestions in this group are second to NONE.

Hey! I use the same filter. Our local Advance Auto Parts carries them in stock for 5-6 bux. Lucky for me. ~ Brian

87LXE in CT

Has anybody tried the new Mobil 1, 4 stroke oil for motorcycles. I've been using regular Mobil 1 and today bought the new motorcycle oil....going to change it tomorrow...hopefully early so if it's nice enough can get a ride in. ~ Dennis Vanill,

Does Sierra Electronics have a web-site? Do you know offhand where they are located? I'm in Canton, sounds like maybe a road trip

As the Sierra spokesperson (laugh), they are in troy 75. You come of the Route 55 exit and hang a right if coming from I -75 south. You go past Wall Mart on down two stop lights... to Experiment Farm Road and hang a right....about a mile or so up the road on the right. It is a brick house with a big shop to the right..... Web site is  or email  or 1 800 338-6938. ~ Nancy

Here 'tis: ~ Andy, Midland, TX


Guys you will not believe this...! If you remember I had posted a problem with my turn signals not working but the running lights were on and working properly. Well, after ripping the entire front of the bike apart this weekend and locating the relays, which by the way were clicking when the handlebar switch was used. I discovered that both ground wires for both relays had been chewed through. Yes, chewed through. Recently I have had a rodent problem outside from my neighborís porch. They have nested under her porch and migrate over to my place to eat bird seed that I have out for the birds and squirrels. I repaired these wires and I am working as advertised. So if you have a problem with the t/s and everything seems OK, fuses, bulbs, and the relays are clicking. Check for rats! Have a great day folks. ~ Gary Fairfield Jax, FL 1986 TT Blue LXE


While I was cleaning the air filter on the air pump I noticed there's a short hose with a capped off tire type valve. Was there some optional hose for inflating tires? ~ B. Walker

YES - it comes with the LXE ~ Bill Fargusson

Ah, mine's an LX with many of the LXE options.. I think everything but the passenger headrest, cornering lights and lowers. Of course it's used and probably had the hose at one point. Wonder if I could take two pumps hoses and connect them together ..hmm... ~ B. Walker

Brenden, on the left side fairing there should be an auto level button. You can get an air hose from JC Whitney or your local Honda dealer which will hookup to the valve and can be used with the auto level button to fill tires using the on board compressor. One thing is important: periodically you must drain any water from the compressor. There is a pull ring located on the bottom of the compressor for that purpose. Take care because the compressor is one of the most expensive things to replace on the Cade if you have to go to the dealer for one. ~ Al from Mass

Already serviced the compressor, found that I could use a long screwdriver to pull the pin. It sure beats trying to reach up there.... Thanks...

I believe that the air hose for the Gold Wing will work on the Cavalcade. Maybe someone can confirm that. ~ Bill

I have purchased the GoldWing hose from JC Whitney and it works just fine. ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT


Group, just found a little something that y'all might be interested in. M.D. Wright, Inc. ( ) has a Brake Light Flasher kit called "Flash-Alert!" This unit is spliced into the brake wiring and causes the brake lights to flash rapidly. It can also be used on your car/truck/van, and is the size of a pack of gum. The unit sells for $20.00 and shipping is free. ~ The organization is located near Ft. Rucker, AL, and is run by the inventor and his wife. I've already ordered mine and will have it installed in a few days,

hopefully to my Third Brake Light. I'll let you know how it works. ~ Andy, Midland, TX


Group, Here is the short report on the Northwest Cavalcade Ownerís Breakfast. The turn-out was good, considering the weather forecast called for afternoon showers. I told the Holiday Inn to be prepared to feed 10-20 people and we had 15 people there. Some came in four-wheelers, but there were seven Cavalcades parked in front and we did get to hear Wojoís pipes. They ARE impressive. ~ During breakfast I told everyone about our ownerís group and its activities and events (i.e. this email forum, Monday night chat, the newsletter, the web site, Cade Raid 2002, etc.). Then Rick Gervasi talked to the group about the Cavalcade, including his recommendations on maintenance, servicing the bike, etc. He spent the rest of the time answering questions about the Cavalcade. As I promised, I did record the meeting and will make it available on audio cassette to anyone who wishes a copy. The cassette is 45 minutes long. It includes my comments and Rickís. $5.00 will cover the cost of the cassette tape and mailing it to you. You can send a check or stick a $5 bill in an envelope with your name and address. We would rather not take credit card numbers for this because we have to run it through our business and it would generate more accounting problems than itís worth. For the same reason make any checks out to me (Jay D. Johnson) not our company. We followed our breakfast with a ride through the tulip fields of Skagit Valley and then to the top of Mount Eire near Anacortes. The road up Mt. Eire is as steep as any Iíve ever seen. The surface is fortunately blacktop and in places seems almost vertical. The Cavalcades each powered their way up carrying rider and passenger with no problem whatever. We started the ride with heavy clouds and as the afternoon continued, the clouds turned to showers and eventually a cold rain. ~ After Mr. Eire we all headed for the I-5 freeway and the fastest way home. One rider was from the Vancouver BC area and the rest of us were from Western Washington. Weíll be planning more Northwest Cavalcade gatherings as we move into summertime. I know there are several more Cavalcade owners who would enjoy this event. ~ My mailing address for anyone who wants the audio cassette recording of our meeting is: Jay D. Johnson 23703 NE 4th Street Sammamish, WA 98074. Ask for the April Cavalcade Tape. (Send $5.00 in US cash or check; or $8.00 Canadian cash; Overseas send us US$10 to cover the cost of the tape and the additional postage.) ~ Ride Safe, Jay 86 LXE "Blue on Blue" Sammamish, Washington USA


Hi all. Rick again. I'm sure most of you remember my idling problem, and then I figured the new plugs were bad because when I put the old ones back in it ran pretty good again. Well, I just got the new plugs, put them in and it runs like crap again. Same plugs this whole time too...the NGK PJ7RA This doesn't even make any sense anymore. It stalls when I go down to idle almost immediately. I was going to resynch the carbs, but I'd hate to keep buying tools and trying stuff until I go broke. I was going to just give up and take it in for service, but now I can't even find anybody in the area to work on it. To recap....bad idle and a miss on the left bank of the engine. I replaced one of the carb intakes I thought was leaking air and retightened the other ones. Replaced the plugs, air filter, and fuel filter. Ran a tank of 92 octane gas and a bottle of carb cleaner, and it was even running decent for awhile, then went bad again. Now I put the "new" plugs back in and I'm at square one again. Any ideas? I hate to be a pest, but I'm out of ideas. I was even thinking I could have a bad wire or something and when I change the plugs and twist the wire a certain way it does or doesn't make contact...who knows, anything sounds good at this point. Thanks for any help. ~ Rick

Rick, Let's start with the basics, did you set the spark plug gap to .024-.028? If you have a compression gauge you should check cylinder compression. if you don't have a gauge then pull all spark plug wires, attach old spark plugs to them, make sure plugs are grounded to engine, leave other plugs in cylinders. Spin engine over with starter, first thing to notice if cranking rhythm is even or if it free runs on one cylinder. If it does crank uneven you will have to borrow a compression tester to double check it. Now the spark plugs attached to the wires, you want to notice while you crank it over that they are sparking a nice sharp blue spark. if very weak or yellow, you may have a bad wire or coil. Start here and let us know the results at that point. ~ Jerry 86LX

Thanks for the replies. New fuel filter and no I didn't check the fuel pump, but when I jump on it. It runs misses at all. That seems strange to me. Yes I do have a compression tester and I'll start there. Thanks. ~ Rick

Sounds to me like there may be a bit of junk or something blocking the idle circuit on one of your carbs. Just a thought. ~ B. Walker

Rick, Well, it's a little tough to do a diagnosis by e-mail, but here are some things you may check. You said that you replaced the plugs and then put the others back in. Did you happen to "read" the plugs when you pulled them out? The color of the plug tells a pretty good story and can lead one in a direction of a possible problem. Were any of the plugs black and sooty? If so, then those cylinders were too rich. That can be caused by a number of things which include high float level, bad inlet needle and/or seat, gas-logged float, pin-holed float, broken float, goober of stuff between the needle and seat, float stuck on its pivot rod, etc. ~ Were the plugs tan or light-brown? If so, those cylinders are just about right. Were any of them light-tan to white and maybe a little damp? That would indicate that a plug isn't firing consistently. If that's the case, then one should check the connections to the coil for that cylinder and the coil itself if possible. The system is made up of a signal generator, igniter and 4 separate coils. There is a somewhat detailed method for checking the signal generator and coils in the service manual (page 8-5), but the igniter can only be checked with a special tester. Notwithstanding that fact, there are several connections between these components, any one of which could be causing an intermittent or no-spark condition to one or more plugs. ~ Also, if the plugs are light-tan to white and NOT damp, that could indicate a too lean condition. Some of the possible causes are leaking o-ring at the manifold, float level too low, bad slider diaphragm, goober in the main or pilot jet, idle mixture screws need backed out a skooch, float stuck on the pivot rod. You mentioned that you tightened the manifolds, however, tightening the manifolds will not put additional squeeze on the o-rings, Since they are used in a face-sealing application, the amount of compression is limited by the depth of the o-ring groove. After time, the o-rings compression set so badly that there just isn't any force left to effect

proper sealing. Something to check. Since you say that it dies almost immediately when it gets to idle, that

seems more like a too rich versus a too lean. Most of the time, if it was too lean, it would take it's time coming back to idle (wanting to idle a little fast) and then finally and slowly returning to idle or dying altogether. ~ Another simple issue, have you tried adjusting the idle speed up with the adjustment knob??? Have you attempted to adjust the idle knob at all? did it have any effect? Could you make it idle but just too fast? Worth a check. If you can adjust the idle speed up and it clears up the miss, you may just had a carb or two slightly out of sync and the idle is set so low that those cylinders were being cut off. ~ You said that it ran good for a while. Was that with the high octane fuel and carb cleaner in the tank? If so, then that might indicate a too lean condition again. If the extra octane and carb cleaner volatility worked to correct (bandage) the real problem, then the issue might be not enough fuel. That could be bad diaphragms, idle mixture screws, etc. Hope some of this helps. Good Luck. ~ Tracy

Hmmm, guess you should have mentioned that I needed a compression gauge that actually FIT the spark plug holes. Mine is too big. Anyway, I thought maybe I had found the problem, but no luck yet. The compression does "sound" ok, but who knows without the gauge. I took one of the plug wires off and the boot came right off in my hand so I thought for sure that I had found the problem. I snipped off a little of the plug wire and screwed the boot back in. Sounded good at first when I started it, but then the left side started popping again after a couple of minutes. The spark looks good and blue...not as big of a spark as I expected, but I'm used to automotive

so I'm not sure it's good or not or how it should really look. It is blue though. All the plugs are gapped at .025.

I thought maybe a plugged idle orifice too, but I wouldn't think it would miss the way it does. Still sounds great when I give it a lot of throttle under load.....just isn't making sense.....back to the garage. ~ Rick

Rick, Did you try the old plug again just to see if the new plug is braking down. ~ Jerry

I'm almost ready to Jerry even though I've changed the plugs twice already. ~ Rick

Thanks for all the advice Tracy. I'll answer them the best I can. One of the plugs looked a little white, but dry. None were black and carboned up. None were wet. The others were light brown and looked like they were

burning pretty good. I do have a service manual and will check the ignition system..... something tells me that's the problem. I might just replace the o-rings while I'm at it since they're cheap and I can get them out of the equation.

It's funny you should mention the idle knob because I can crank it all the way in until it stops and maybe get 1200 rpm's out of it. Seems like it should idle faster than that if I cranked it all the way in. I can get it to idle around 900 to 1000, but then I run into the problem of the rpm not wanting to come down when it's revved up and the throttle is let off. When I said it ran good for awhile, it's like it runs fine when it's cold, but after it starts to warm up just a little, it starts to pop pretty noticeably without touching the choke, then when it warms up completely it doesn't miss as bad. I'm not sure about anyone else's Cavalcade, but during the warm up the rpm always stayed pretty even, other than getting higher until you moved the lever off of choke, but now it kind of surges as it warms up if that makes any sense to you.....but not all the time and that's what's so perplexing about the whole thing. I think I'll check ignition first, change o-rings, and get a compression gauge so I can rule out burnt valves or something like that. If the compression is bad, I don't see any reason to go any further with the other stuff. Thanks again for all the advice. Rick

I had the same problem ..... I had just bought it and did not know much about so I took it to the shop.....had bad carb boots but more important the carbs needed new jets and gaskets..... It runs like a top now....hope I helped...Nick


Hello all, Just thought I'd pass on a little maintenance story to you. Seems my back tire went bald prematurely. I found out my back brake was sticking and the pedal wasn't returning to the "upright and locked" position. Ends up that the pivot for the pedal was dry and rusty. Cleaned it up and lubed..... works fine now.

As a result, I needed to change the rear tire.......did the front, too, just to be safe. Now, for those of you who don't know, I have an LXE with the extra lights on the bumper and the four that attach to chrome rails below/around the license plate. Since I don't have access to a good bike jack, I was going to be forced to remove all of this stuff to pull the wheel out. I've heard of different ways others have done it, but I believe I came up with something unique.

I first put the bike up on center stand and then ran a tie-down from it to the front light bar. I then removed the front tire and let the forks come down to the ground. The tie-down prevented the center stand from folding up and letting the beast hit the ground. By doing this, the rear end came just high enough off the ground to allow the rear wheel to roll right out. Within 3 hours, I had removed both wheels, gone to the shop, had the tires mounted and balanced, and then reinstalled.....READY TO ROLL!!! The guys at Road Rider were even nice enough to lube the splines for me. For the curious, I stayed with Dunlop this time.

Too bad the shocks I'm waiting for didn't arrive. It would've been a piece of cake to do it all at once. Damn shipping company lost my package. &%#@*!!!!!!! (aka-gosh darn)

At least now I can ride. I'd been riding all winter, even during the rain, and was getting spoiled. Two new tires and one "bike blessing" later......I'm ready to go. I hope everyone else it, too. Anyway, it all happened so fast today that I didn't take a picture. ~ HeyJerr, 86 LXE, San Jose, Calif.

Look closely at your tire if showing some wear. I was experiencing the same thing a couple tires ago. Upon close inspection saw it was starting to scallop on the edges so I only felt it cornering at high speeds...wasn't a Dunlop, but they are now. ~ Dennis Vanill


Anybody know approximate price on a new factory air-cleaner? Just wondering if I should bother, or just get the Amsoil foam filter.. The reason I ask is it'd be quicker to get a new factory one (unless they have to make a serious special order) the local dealer here can usually get parts in 2 days. If I go with the Amsoil, do I need to do anything special to get the CUSA discount? ~

Retail price of a new filter will be between $31-38 It is VERY worth it to get the Amsoil filter - I'll be getting one soon... ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Thanks, that saves me a trip to the Zuki' dealer, no point in ordering a stock one. ~ Brenden Walker

Hi guys, my advice is to get the factory air filter they are available and the bike is worth it. I just got one approx. $45

Canadian, they filter the air better than the foam filter, and the people who built the engine know best what degree of filtering the engine requires, and I have no lack of power with the factory filter. See you at the Americade. ~ Carter Piovesan, Cape Breton 86LX

On the cost of an OEM filter -- replaced mine a year ago cost at the dealer was $33.00. Sounds like some of the dealers are really charging top dollar. If I couldn't get good prices locally I would check out the back pages of any motorcycle magazine for discount suppliers. Even paying shipping (no sales tax) in most cases it would still be cheaper. ~ Al from Mass


I am having a problem with my turn signals that I have not yet seen discussed. When I turn on my right turn signal after about two blinks the left turn signal also blinks thus turning it into a hazard signal. However when I turn the turn signal off the right one turns off but the left one continues to blink. Sometimes it eventually goes off and sometimes it won't turn off till I turn off the key switch. Anyone had this kind of problem and does anyone have any suggestions. ~ Doug Fuller, 86 LXE in BC

Doug, There is a pretty good chance that it is the self-canceling device described on pages 8-27 and 8-28 of the service manual. This is also a method explained for checking the device. If you need those pages, I can do screen shots of them and send them. Tracy

Well, next is to check wires and modules. Check continuity, connection and physical appearance. Good luck. ~ Gerry in NY


I just bought my 86LX last month. Unfortunately the bike and I parted company at an intersection on the way home. I hit some loose stuff in the turn and it swapped ends on me. Besides the broken ribs, collar bone and destroying my pride, the 'Cade came out like a champ. Parts are on the way, thanks to AL, and I'm going back together with the bike. My question is about painting the fairing. I've got a small area to fill and paint. What is the best material to fill the scratches and scraps, and what color is the lighter tan or brown used on the "Cades? Any pointers on preparation, filling and painting will be greatly appreciated. I do know one thing, the first 20 miles were the best bike ride I've ever had. Looking forward to getting it back on the road. This site is truly unbelievable, Thanks Be Safe Thanks, Dwayne 86LX



Dear Membership, Can anyone out there offer any solution for front brake squealing? I have been experiencing this annoying problem every since I have owned my Cade ( 1986 with 30,000 miles ). I have had the brake rotors all inspected both front and rear and all are within spec. like new condition. I had all new pads installed ( front and Rear ) and the squeal still persists. The squealing sound is definitely coming from the front braking system, and only when you approach the stop at very low speed. I have had all new stainless braided brake lines installed in the front and that did not cure the problem. I am having some new ( different ) type compound pads installed tomorrow in a last attempt effort to solve this squealing problem. I would appreciate any of your comments concerning this problem. Thanks in advance for your help. Respectfully, ~ Butch Trombley

Butch, Purchase a tube of whatís called disc quiet. Remove the pads and apply as per instructions on the tube to the back of the pads where they contact the caliper piston. I've used it for years on cars and trucks. Had same problem with my 86 Cade last year, cured it. ~ Jerry 86LX

Butch, mine were squealing. Had the original pads in and squeal was getting worse with each passing mile.

Decided it was time to replace the front pads, on Ken's advice I went to ADAP (AutoZone) and bought Disc

Brake Quiet comes in a foil packet. Cut the corner and squeeze it out I used my finger to smear it on the

back of the brake pads. Was $1.99/packet - for the front buy 2 and do both sides. If you take the calipers off you can do both sides in less than an hour. One other thing reading Ken's email again -- he bought a spray. What I used was more like a thick paste and after smearing it on the back of the pads installed them before it dried.

Hope this helps. ~ Al from Mass

I know where you're coming from and what you're feeling. Before you go too much crazier and in debt, I'll tell you what cured the same problem with my Cade. "Disc Brake Quiet" It comes in spray and brush on. Slip your brake pads out and clean the BACKS real good. Spray or brush this stuff on and let it dry. I applied three light coats and let each dry before the next. A heat lamp will speed the process. Re-install and check it out. Seems there is a harmonic resonance between the pads and the plunger that causes the noise. I've had two years of no noise thanks to "DISC BRAKE QUIET" Bought it at the Auto Parts Store. ~ Kenn

This is not an answer to the issue of solving the squeal problem, but simply an explanation of what causes it and why the material called Disc-brake Quiet does what it does.

Actually, what you are hearing is chatter. The reason it sounds like a squeal is because it is a very fast chatter. As you apply the brakes lightly, the pads will tend to grab the disc and then they will slip. This happens very fast. So fast normally that you can't feel anything at the lever (or in the case of a car, the pedal). But since there isn't very much pressure on the pads, the grabbing and slipping produces a harmonic that sounds like a squeal. Historically, disc brakes have always suffered from this problem and as the pad materials got better (for better braking), sometimes the squeal got worse and louder. The more pressure you apply, though, the less the pad is allowed to move (or slip) and therefore it is unable to produce the chatter. Typically, for those that have a fairly heavy hand (late brakers), chatter is less of a problem (if at all).

The material known as Disc-brake Quiet (originally produced by CRC), is like caulking compound and its job is basically two-fold: 1) provide a malleable surface between the pads and caliper pistons that insulates the metal parts from each other, and 2) dampen the harmonics produced by the chatter. Arguably, the same thing could be done with high-temp RTV silicone sealer. However, the actual disc-brake quiet material may have some very specific, engineered properties that make it work better. But I doubt it.

So the moral to this story is that for better braking, you need a more aggressive pad compound that will grip the rotors better, but, the tradeoff is a potential propensity towards squealing. Just use some sort of uckum-pucky between the backs of the pads and the caliper pistons and it probably will go away. ~ Tracy

I have taken a high pressure wash to my rotors since dust had gotten in all areas. Squeal went away. ~ Jerry


If I were to remove the fork caps while the font wheel was still on the bike (jacked up of course), how hard would it be to put them back on? ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Well, I haven't done my Cade yet. But, I've got this on a lot of bikes. Having the front wheel on isn't going to matter (as long as it's jacked up). Generally it's quite a push to compress the spring, but should be doable. Keep in mind when you remove the caps that there's a pretty strong spring underneath it, so be prepared. ~ Brenden Walker


There is quite a bit of pressure on the caps. It's no so much how hard, but the angle of attack. When you have them cinched up in a vise, you can put your weight into it. On the bike, it could be a little difficult. Some of the others that have doe it before may disagree with me, though. ~ Tracy


The Maintenance pages on says to put in Barrs Stop Leak when flushing the radiator, but I've heard from one member that this stuff is bad for the water pump. Seems strange to put stop-leak (of any kind) in the Radiator. I'd suspect that using the new high-mileage aluminum radiator coolant would be the best bet, without any additives. Seems like adding things to oil, the manufacturers spent millions coming up with a good blend...and then we mess with it ;-) ~ Brenden Walker

Brenden, for the record, manual calls for always adding Bars leak when changing antifreeze. I am sure this is supposed to add a layer of insurance against leaks. That said when I changed mine about 5 years ago thinking changing coolant was going to be easy - after I had drained the old and found out what was required to put the new in I went to talk to the dealer's mechanic. What I was told by a mechanic that I trust was: #1 they never change coolant unless major engine work requires it be drained. #2 they never use Bars Leak and the dealer did not sell it, but I also do not believe Suzuki would recommend something bad for the water pump. Several members of the group have used it with as far as I can tell no bad results. I did not use it and have never had a problem -- I also don't plan to change coolant unless forced to. My two cents, ~ Al from Mass

What problems were there with putting in new coolant? Other than the obvious small opening and slow rate of pour into the upper tank? Just wondering if I should perhaps skip this, seems like it should be easy enough. But your message seems to indicate otherwise. ~ Brenden Walker

Brenden, One supposes that the reason the factory wants Bars leak in the systems is to mitigate any possible leaks (both external and internal) as they happen. It would take but a very small amount of anti-freeze in the oil to trash the motor real quick. They probably know that there are some oil and water passages that run precariously close together, or gaskets that separate the different fluids. ~ Bars leak has been around for an awfully long time and most new cars come with a dose of it in the coolant system, just for precaution. I have spoken with a rep from either Bars leak or a similar company and the main ingredient is ground up nut shells. They use a soluble binder to hold the pellets together but once in the system, they come apart and the ground up bits float around looking for a place to seal. ~ As for the water pump, I suppose that Bars leak has been run in millions of cars (and bikes) for millions of miles sans any significant quantity of incident. Maybe that's the same as millions of $ spent on testing. Everyone has an opinion and, there may be some persons that have had a bad experience that they have attributed to Bars leak. But I believe in the overall scheme of things that it is probably a good thing to do since the factory approves of it. ~ But, that, of course, is just one opinion. ~ Tracy

KennG is the second person in the group I've heard from about getting at the radiator cap via the side vent. Boy, are you the lucky ones. On the 87 LXE the radiator cap will not come off this way -- you can loosen it, but on mine cap hits the frame member. To actually get the cap off I had to unbolt the radiator, which allows it to tilt back without disconnecting the hoses enough so that the cap clears the frame member. The problem is how much fairing you have to remove to get at the radiator bolts. Have fun, ~ Al from Mass

Ouch, I've got an '88. It seems to me that you should be able to fill the radiator with the overflow tank if you have the cap loosened enough to break the seal which should let the air out and the coolant in. Am I way off on this? ~ Brenden

There is what looks like a bolt under the engine (follow the radiator hose down). Thereís no petcock as on a

car radiator. ~ Al from Mass

Could anyone tell me what could possibly make a high pitched, almost alarm -like sound from the area above or around the radiator? It has happened 2X in the last couple weeks while riding ....the temp gauge reads about 3/4

from HOT when this noise starts it related to the temp. or does it have something to do with the loss of charge I had in the battery?.....I'm at a loss on this .... looking forward to the manual on CD to learn the anatomy of this motor. Thanks, ~ Nick

Sounds like the overpressure release on the radiator (presumably it has one). Or a small leak in the radiator. ~ Brenden

Nick, It might possibly be the cooling fan motor, let it stand an idle until fans kicks in when temp rises to the point that you heard the noise. ~ Jerry 86LX


If you try to fill the radiator by way of the upper tank, you could be in for a big surprise. The radiator won't fill from there with the radiator cap on. I removed the left side vent and could reach the radiator cap through there. Popped the cap and then started filling from the top tank. It took a little over a liter to fill the radiator. I used a liter pop bottle to pour with. Put the cap back on, topped off the upper tank, replaced the side vent, and went for a ride. Level hasn't changed. The side vent trick sure beat having to take off all that plastic to reach the radiator cap. Let me know how you make out :>) ~ KennG

For the ones that have the privilege of owning an owners manual It states that for this, chore bike should be returned to dealer. And a tedious job it is. after trying myself to fill it from the TOP res. tank. I realized I wouldn't do it this way on MY CAR, I'd fill the radiator first. and believe me IT WORKS. and a lot quicker than waiting for that top tank to drain in through a 1/4 IF that? Over pressure tube. Pressures be what they may will not let the radiator take the fluid, and it'd a never ending job to try and fill it through that top tank even with the cap loose. I just changed mine only because I wanted the NON silicate antifreeze, and yes I did add the BARS Stop Leak, Suzuki engineers said to. I like Tracy feel THEY have a reason for it, Maybe because these were some of the

earlier water cooled bikes, local mechanics don't do this on later bikes I was told, But I'd rather be safe than sorry. as to the members leak It's more than likely the MID reservoir tank has the seam opened up. This I also just repaired, by WELDING it back with a VERY HOT soldering iron and sanding the entire seam, then covering it with JB WELD. it made a very nice repair. I removed it by removing the LOWER fairing, removing TOP radiator hose, disconnecting any hoses attached to it. removing the 4 radiator mounting bolts and letting the radiator hang. there was just enough room to take the MID tank out the radiator cap side. as for the Radiator Drain it is a 10mm bolt

JUST BELOW the BOTTOM radiator hose connector to engine, also make sure the cap IS loose so it will drain??


Thanks for the details on this. I've found that I can remove the radiator cap on my '88 (just barely). For refilling the radiator I'm going to use a piece of 1/4" hose and siphon the coolant from a bottle. Can't imagine trying to

pour it in. ~ Brenden

Hi all!! Since I didn't get my first problem fixed, I now have another to contend with. I'm wondering if the water pump is on the way out. Today, while the bike was running I noticed a little bit of antifreeze coming out of what looks like a little weep hole on the left side of the engine on top of the block right behind the front cylinder. Just a tiny bit came out, but that's a lot too much. Is that a water pump seal starting to go? If so, can seals be replaced or the whole pump? Anyone know of a good place to get one if that's the case? Thanks to all who reply. Rick

Rick, If you have my luck as some others have had, you will probably find that your coolant reservoir is leaking that is mounted above the engine. it has a tendency to crack at the bottom seam. I repaired mine last fall. ~ Jerry 86LX

Hey Rick, I had this happen to me once while I was on vacation. I noticed antifreeze leaking while it was running and on the side stand. I though I had blow a head gasket near the top of the front cylinder. After a compete panic, I discovered a small pin-hole in the second reservoir in the middle of the bike just over the front cylinders. Fix: on the road crazy glue, lasted two years. Then I had to order a new on from dealer. Now this might not have anything to do with your problem but it sounded familiar. ~ Blake 86' 2tonebrown

Yeah, that's what I thought too, that I lost my mind. For some reason when the bike is on the center stand it wouldn't leak unless it was under load. With the bike in gear it would build enough presser, that you would be able to find the leak. ~ Blake

What problems were there with putting in new coolant?

I had none. I changed the coolant last night. I followed the directions, added the bottle of Bars Leaks in between coolant fills and ran the engine for 30 minutes like suggested on the B_L bottle. You will need to remove the left fairing parts to get the radiator cap off, though. It was easy. Any good auto parts store has Bars Leaks. I noticed the difference immediately on the first ride this morning. Good luck ! ~ Gerry in NY

There are two overflow tanks in our machines, one by the fuses and one under the radio. This is another reason why we cannot fill the radiator from the overflow, too much to go through and back air pressure. Ya gotta fill the

radiator and the overflow. ~ Gerry in NY